Toshiba TV29C90 problem; Image fades to black...

[Donna Ohl, Grady Voluntee]

On Mon, 18 Feb 2008 09:18:04 -0800 (PST), N8N wrote:

If you try to remove it next year, you should be able to do it

Good point. We should remove the anode every year so that it *can* be
removed when it comes time to replace it with a similarly sized one.

One thing we still need to do is attach the drainage pipe from the
Temperature & Pressure valve to near the floor in case of an overflow.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/donnaohl/2274211119/

Is the drain pipe mandatory (can we just leave it off)?

It seems to me a drain pipe *should* be mandatory because you don't want
hot water spewing forth at eye level. However, due to configuration
changes, even with the taller tank, the old drainage tube is too long and
too close to the tank so we can't just screw the old one in. We have to
modify it somehow to make it shorter and move it away from the wood base.

QUESTION:
How many inches ABOVE the garage floor should it end?
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2030/2273228265_01c9df0f48_m.jpg

If we can end ABOVE the 18 inch wooden platform, that would be easier.
If we have to end six or so inches above the garage cement floor, that
would necessitate an elbow to get past the wooden base but it seems a
horizontal line can clog causing a safety hazard.

I googled but did not find any specs as to HOW MANY INCHES above either the
floor or better yet, the wooden platform, that a drain pipe must terminate.

Can someone recommend a solution?

Thanks
Donna

 

[Donna Ohl, Grady Voluntee]

On Mon, 18 Feb 2008 10:50:04 -0600, Vic Smith wrote:

(it's leaking very slightly from where the corroded
threads meet the new steel nipple)?
http://www.flickr.com/photos/donnaohl/2273262551/

Most likely you didn't crank it in enough...
If the leak doesn't stop, you'll have to redo that.

I watched Bill crank it like crazy so it's certainly tight enough!

We think the threads on the 50-year old galvanized steel elbow are clogged
up and that's what is causing the slow dribble out of the cold water inlet
pipe.

We now have the confidence to tackle this job - we just were unsure how to
remove the elbow or cut the pipe or remove the pipe from the wall.

install the valve with lever away from the vent, 90
degrees rotated from where it is.
We'll do that when we figure out how to fix the slight leak above.

See how hot it gets after a heater run.
It's cold.

Galvanized pipes can easily last 50 years.
Our house was built in 1958!

Somebody mentioned the gas flex you used
We feel confident in swapping out the gas flex if that's what we should do.

Do others feel we must do that (we don't mind as parts costs are
miniscule).

We just want to do the job right.

Thanks for the advice.
One thing that is still undone is the overflow vent (we'll ask separately).

Donna

 

On 4 Mar, 00:24, tonym...@gmail.com wrote:

On Mar 3, 3:25 am, francesco.messi...@gmail.com wrote:

On 2 Mar, 22:23, "N Cook" <diver...@gazeta.pl> wrote:
If 1995 unlikely Ge 2N1215
Could it be a Russian Cyrillic "N" ?
Definitely low power transistor casing ? eg < 1A

definitely low power, looks like japanese, all other components in the
car radio are japanese.
Might be a RN1215 but I wasn't able to find a datasheet to confirm.

How about a UN1215? It has an internal 10K base resistor.http://www.datasheetarchive.com/pdf/3535073.pdf

thanks, I tried a lot of letters but the U...

Francesco IZ8DWF

 

[N Cook]

<francesco.messineo@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:d49b82f5-bf09-4979-8047-da4aa609dafd@i12g2000prf.googlegroups.com...

On 4 Mar, 00:24, tonym...@gmail.com wrote:
On Mar 3, 3:25 am, francesco.messi...@gmail.com wrote:

On 2 Mar, 22:23, "N Cook" <diver...@gazeta.pl> wrote:
If 1995 unlikely Ge 2N1215
Could it be a Russian Cyrillic "N" ?
Definitely low power transistor casing ? eg < 1A

definitely low power, looks like japanese, all other components in the
car radio are japanese.
Might be a RN1215 but I wasn't able to find a datasheet to confirm.

How about a UN1215? It has an internal 10K base
resistor.http://www.datasheetarchive.com/pdf/3535073.pdf


thanks, I tried a lot of letters but the U...

Francesco IZ8DWF

The free one I use a lot of is
http://www.graffiti.net/

you can put odd pics on there without having thenm associated with a text
file and others can view such isolated pics, not the case with all such
hosting sites (remote linking).

It would be useful, if indeed Panasonic, for the font style of the
lettering, relative dot position etc


--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/

 

[Michael A. Terrell]

radiosrfun wrote:

Mike, with all due respect to your opinion - with all the money I've thrown
away in my life time for foolishness - I'd gladly pay for the bullets to rid
the world of those assholes. Now "that" would be an "investment".

That's just like you! If you shoot them we can't watch them running
for their lives, from wild, feral hogs. If they can't eat pork and make
it to their 'heaven', what happens if the hogs eat them?


--
Service to my country? Been there, Done that, and I've got my DD214 to
prove it.
Member of DAV #85.

Michael A. Terrell
Central Florida

 

[Michael A. Terrell]

Allodoxaphobia wrote:

On Wed, 09 Jan 2008 20:24:41 -0500, Michael A. Terrell wrote:
radiosrfun wrote:

They love their religion so much, but don't have the balls to show their
faces... Nice guys! And I'm supposed to want to rush to join them - why?
They don't have my support and never will. Jail time? Hell, they ought to be
shot. In that short time, they'll come back out more bitter than ever. Jail
is just a short time out for them.

Shooting them is a waste of bullets. Just feed them to those wild
hogs in the US Southwestern states.

ITYM "in the US Southeastern states." That's the only place I've ever
encountered wild hogs. Nasty bastards, those.

There are plenty of other wild critters here in the S.W. U.S.A.
Maybe you were thinking of the Javalina?

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Peccary
http://www.animalpicturesarchive.com/view.php?tid=3&did=65835

Javalina -- not to be confused with Javascript.....

Jonesy

<http://www.agr.state.tx.us/agr/program_render/0,1987,1848_5446_0_0,00.html?channelId=5446>
--
Service to my country? Been there, Done that, and I've got my DD214 to
prove it.
Member of DAV #85.

Michael A. Terrell
Central Florida

 

[Allodoxaphobia]

On Wed, 09 Jan 2008 20:24:41 -0500, Michael A. Terrell wrote:

radiosrfun wrote:

They love their religion so much, but don't have the balls to show their
faces... Nice guys! And I'm supposed to want to rush to join them - why?
They don't have my support and never will. Jail time? Hell, they ought to be
shot. In that short time, they'll come back out more bitter than ever. Jail
is just a short time out for them.

Shooting them is a waste of bullets. Just feed them to those wild
hogs in the US Southwestern states.

ITYM "in the US Southeastern states." That's the only place I've ever
encountered wild hogs. Nasty bastards, those.

There are plenty of other wild critters here in the S.W. U.S.A.
Maybe you were thinking of the Javalina?

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Peccary
http://www.animalpicturesarchive.com/view.php?tid=3&did=65835

Javalina -- not to be confused with Javascript.....

Jonesy

 

[Edwin Pawlowski]

"Donna Ohl, Grady Volunteer Coordinator" <donna.ohl@sbcglobal.net> wrote in
message

Can anyone really expect to remove the anode when it needs inspection?
Why don't they provide TWO HOLES so you can add a second anode when
needed?

! Cost
2 How would you know if a new one is needed if you cant get the first one
out?
3 That plug would not come out either after years of use

 

[Donna Ohl, Grady Voluntee]

On Mon, 18 Feb 2008 06:54:10 -0800 (PST), hallerb@aol.com wrote:

all your galvanized needs replaced, when corroded that bad soon it
will leak

Hi Hallerb,

It was disgusting how corroded the *inside* of the galvanized pipes were!
http://www.flickr.com/photos/donnaohl/2273250265/

We had to reuse the 3/4 inch galvanized elbows.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/donnaohl/2273268515/

Why? Because we just couldn't get them off no matter how much we twisted!

We had to put Jack's stands against the wall just to hold it back.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/donnaohl/2273268509/

The horizontal pipe kept bending and twisting with every application of
force.

Three questions came up that we'd like to ask:

1. We could easily twist the horizontal galvanized pipe; but how would we
replace this corroded pipe since it apparently connects to an elbow
*inside* the wall?
http://www.flickr.com/photos/donnaohl/2273268515/

2. Could/should we have just hack sawed the horizontal galvanized pipe and
rethreaded somehow (it's leaking very slightly from where the corroded
threads meet the new steel nipple)?
http://www.flickr.com/photos/donnaohl/2273262551/

3. Is our cold water shut off valve too close to the hot vent flue for
safety?
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2385/2274079134_7986c459d6_m.jpg

Please advise as this job brought up more questions than answers!
Donna
http://www.flickr.com/donnaohl

 

[Donna Ohl, Grady Voluntee]

On Mon, 18 Feb 2008 15:30:03 GMT, Edwin Pawlowski wrote:

I appears that you re-used the flex gas line. That should be replaced with
any new installation and would be a code violation in most, if not all,
places.

Hi Edwin,

Thank you! That was another of my questions!
(strangely I have more questions after the job than before).

Looking at the nicely packaged yellow gas lines, we asked EVERYONE in the
stores if we should replace and they all (multiple stores) said nobody
replaces the gas line. They said leave it so we don't introduce a leak.

So, purely for safety reasons, we didn't replace the gas line (using the
store logic).

But, we would have been happy to replace the gas line as the costs for
quality parts is miniscule in this job, given the major cost for the heater
itself.

Where do I look up our local code requirements anyway?
I went to our town site and saw they have an office but nothing on the web.

Donna

 

[Donna Ohl, Grady Voluntee]

On Mon, 18 Feb 2008 06:55:46 -0800 (PST), hallerb@aol.com wrote:

on energy costs, this heater was designed after the energy guide label
specs were created, thats why its energy use is under the lowest.

Interesting!

The Energy Guide label for this 0.63 Energy Factor water heater:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/donnaohl/2274085480/

Says the thermal energy factor comparison is:
This model uses 238 therms per year.
Uses least energy: 242 therms
Uses most energy: 272 therms
Only models with FHRs of 87 to 99 gallons are used in this scale.
This model's estimated yearly operating cost is: $216 dollars
Based on a 2004 US Government national average cost of 0.9100 per therm.
(41,045 btu/0.63)($0.9100/therm * 1 therm/100,000 btu) x 365 = $216/year

However, my estimated thermal energy factor is closer to:
(41,045 btu/0.63)($1.21106/therm * 1 therm/100,000 btu) x 365 = $288/year

So, the Energy Guide label is off on energy costs by a whopping 75 percent!
(I think.)

Donna
PS: I never know whether the best calculation is this way or that?
$216 / $288 * 100 = 75%
or
$288 / $216 * 100 = 133%

 

[Donna Ohl, Grady Voluntee]

On Mon, 18 Feb 2008 06:55:46 -0800 (PST), hallerb@aol.com wrote:

the intricate baffels are there to help efficency.

Hi Hallerb,

That was another question we had in the queue!

1. What exactly do these intricate baffles actually do?
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2040/2273991351_1cb7542339_m.jpg

I'm guessing they slow down the heated air so that it has more time to heat
up the water by passive convection. Is that true?
http://www.flickr.com/photos/donnaohl/2273276725/

Donna

 

[radiosrfun]

"Michael A. Terrell" <mike.terrell@earthlink.net> wrote in message
news:478573D9.C55D7921@earthlink.net...

radiosrfun wrote:

They love their religion so much, but don't have the balls to show their
faces... Nice guys! And I'm supposed to want to rush to join them - why?
They don't have my support and never will. Jail time? Hell, they ought to
be
shot. In that short time, they'll come back out more bitter than ever.
Jail
is just a short time out for them.


Shooting them is a waste of bullets. Just feed them to those wild
hogs in the US Southwestern states.


--
Service to my country? Been there, Done that, and I've got my DD214 to
prove it.
Member of DAV #85.

Michael A. Terrell
Central Florida

Mike, with all due respect to your opinion - with all the money I've thrown
away in my life time for foolishness - I'd gladly pay for the bullets to rid
the world of those assholes. Now "that" would be an "investment".

 

[Michael A. Terrell]

radiosrfun wrote:

They love their religion so much, but don't have the balls to show their
faces... Nice guys! And I'm supposed to want to rush to join them - why?
They don't have my support and never will. Jail time? Hell, they ought to be
shot. In that short time, they'll come back out more bitter than ever. Jail
is just a short time out for them.

Shooting them is a waste of bullets. Just feed them to those wild
hogs in the US Southwestern states.


--
Service to my country? Been there, Done that, and I've got my DD214 to
prove it.
Member of DAV #85.

Michael A. Terrell
Central Florida

 

[hallerb@aol.com]

on energy costs, this heater was designed after the energy guide label
specs were created, thats why its energy use is under the lowest.

the intricate baffels are there to help efficency.

 

[hallerb@aol.com]

all your galvanized needs replaced, when corroded that bad soon it
will leak

 

[Edwin Pawlowski]

"Donna Ohl, Grady Volunteer Coordinator" <donna.ohl@sbcglobal.net> wrote in
message

Let's learn from this half-day job.
Would this hot water heater R&R pass your inspection?
Why or why not?

Donna & Bill

I appears that you re-used the flex gas line. That should be replaced with
any new installation and would be a code violation in most, if not all,
places.

From the photo, it looks as though you used on SS line and one copper line.
If so, that is a sure sign of a hack job. Meantime, start thinking about
replacing all of that galvanized pip with either copper or pex.

 

[Donna Ohl, Grady Voluntee]

On Mon, 18 Feb 2008 05:29:11 -0800 (PST), N8N wrote:

I just replaced the anodes ... on two ancient (80's) water heaters
it turns out that they were both still in good shape

Hi Nate,

That brings up the first (of many) questions that arose when we replaced
our hot water heater (with your help) yesterday ...

1. I agree, while replacing the altruistic anode is a "good thing" ...
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2086/2274079124_f60ec145cf.jpg?v=0

The problem I found is ...

2. Even Superman couldn't would have a tough time removing mine ...
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2033/2274085498_52c3b7d618.jpg?v=0

Given it took a pipe wrench plus a huge cheater bar to remove the anode
with the water heater removed and blocked on the ground ... and given that
any in-place plumbing and vent ducts would have severely hampered access
.... and given that a water heater isn't rigidly "mounted" ... I wonder ...

Can anyone really expect to remove the anode when it needs inspection?
Why don't they provide TWO HOLES so you can add a second anode when needed?

Donna
http://www.flickr.com/donnaohl

 

[Donna Ohl, Grady Voluntee]

On Mon, 18 Feb 2008 06:28:15 -0800 (PST), N8N wrote:

can't see your photos at work, but definitely brush a soapy water
solution over all gas connections and check for bubbles.

Hi Nate,
Yes, I personally did the check for natural-gas leaks.

Bill slathered on the TPE cream, taking care to leave the last two threads
bare, and we didn't see any bubbles with a solution of Dawn and water
brushed on with a toothbrush.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/donnaohl/2273276731/

One minor question we had for the natural gas line was whether or not to
kink the gas hose in an S-shaped curve to trap sediments before they enter
the thermostat.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/donnaohl/2273276741/

Do you arrange the gas hose in any particular manner?

Also, does anyone know the significance of the red aluminum ring around the
gas hose? Does it have any meaning?
http://www.flickr.com/photos/donnaohl/2273250275/

Donna
http://www.flickr.com/donnaohl

 

[Eeyore]

indep wrote:

Hi, I'm need info on a power resistor and i'm not sure of it's
specs. 250L 13ohm KMICRON 05. It's 350mm long 45mm wide and 30mm
thick with 350mm leads. It seems to be made of aluminium.

This may help.
http://www.ibselectronics.com/ibs/cmpnts/rgaco/catalog/J/MPR_J2-3.pdf

Found simply by using Google for 'micron resistor'

Please don't post in html btw.

Graham