Toshiba TV29C90 problem; Image fades to black...

Blueberry doggy (I have to call her BlueberryBelle for my married Irish
lady friend wayyyyyy over yonder across the big pond) says, WOO WOO
WOOF!
cuhulin

 

[snags]

"William R. Walsh" <newsgroups1@idontwantjunqueemail.walshcomptech.com>
wrote in message news:bS%Ak.351406$yE1.344094@attbi_s21...

Hi!

Not to p*ss on anyone's parade or anything, but quite frankly, I
can't fathom how anyone can rave over analog CRT TVs anymore.

One thing is the longevity...I've seen my old CRT TVs go past their 10th,
20th, and even 25th birthdays, and they still work as well as they ever
did.
Most have required nothing more than simple cleaning of the screen to keep
right on plugging along.

I *like* that kind of a lifetime out of a product, and I'm not sure we'll
ever see it with the more modern LCD and Plasma TV sets. (Or maybe even
the
modern CRT sets for that matter.) I'm of the strong belief that most (if
not
all) of them won't last nearly as long because they were not made as well.

I am not saying that I would never buy an LCD or plasma TV set, but right
now I see no reason to do so. I don't have any need for anything more than
what the sets I have can offer, and I'm not going to throw them out while
they still work fine and meet my needs.

William

In my opinion..............I think, if you can afford it, go buy a HDTV

monitor, Reason? You only live once and it's well worth the cost,
Don't miss out.

 

[jim]

On Feb 17, 11:24 am, "Donna Ohl, Grady Volunteer Coordinator"
<donna....@sbcglobal.net> wrote:

On Sun, 17 Feb 2008 10:52:25 -0600, Vic Smith wrote:
I've never used flex on a hot water heater, but suppose that flex
connectors have the di-electric insulator built in.  Should be some
specs attached to that type of connector.

Hi Vic,

There is a black rubber grommet inside the copper flex tube's brass
fittings. Maybe that's the dialectric; but it's tremendously smaller than
the fist-sized dialectric unions we bought yesterday.

Donna

If your pipes are galvanized you don't need di-electric fittings
Right and you are who certianaly not a plumber just a Mike Holmes
wannabe, if you conect copper to galvenized you better use them but
then Iam only a master plumber so what would I know

 

[hallerb@aol.com]

On Feb 17, 7:36�pm, clams_casino <PeterGrif...@DrunkinClam.com> wrote:

Donna Ohl, Grady Volunteer Coordinator wrote:





On Sun, 17 Feb 2008 11:04:53 -0500, clams_casino wrote:
On Sun, 17 Feb 2008 11:04:53 -0500, clams_casino wrote:

Do get it right. ďż˝ A family recently died of carbon monoxide poisoning

Hi clams,

We *are* doing it right. That's why I'm here in the first place. To get it
right. I do appreciate the help. From everyone. And, I'll give back by
posting the tutorial for others like us to follow.

In fact, we feel we're possibly doing it *better* than a plumber might, at
least in terms of raw material. It seems to us (unsubstantiated opinion)
that a plumber might tend to maximize his *time* and not necessarily the
quality of the materials - unless specifically asked to by the homeowner
(who must correspondingly be willing to pay for the extra parts cost and
labor).

Bill is in his final shower as we speak. The gas is off.

He can sing in that steaming hot shower for as long as he likes and, for
once, I won't be on his back about wasting the hot water!

Donna

This has been a very informative thread. ďż˝ I didn't appreciate that our
15-year old water heater (61 gallon - State / 0.55 ER) is likely on
borrowed time. ďż˝ The first one in our home was replaced after just 8
years (previous owner). ďż˝ As someone pointed out, now is probably a good
time to start researching a replacement.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

i take a different view, after having one start leaking with house
guests coming right before christmas.

i replace mine at the time of my choosing, on my schedule.

peace of mind and lack of hassles plus no worry about water leak
damage, and can shop around for best deal, and get better efficency
from new tank and i went larger with a high output tank.

do you wait for everything you own to totally quit before replacing?

hot water tanks are low cost.

my current one is 7 years old. its on borrowed time

 

[clams_casino]

hallerb@aol.com wrote:

On Feb 17, 7:36�pm, clams_casino <PeterGrif...@DrunkinClam.com> wrote:


Donna Ohl, Grady Volunteer Coordinator wrote:







On Sun, 17 Feb 2008 11:04:53 -0500, clams_casino wrote:
On Sun, 17 Feb 2008 11:04:53 -0500, clams_casino wrote:


Do get it right. ďż˝ A family recently died of carbon monoxide poisoning


Hi clams,


We *are* doing it right. That's why I'm here in the first place. To get it
right. I do appreciate the help. From everyone. And, I'll give back by
posting the tutorial for others like us to follow.


In fact, we feel we're possibly doing it *better* than a plumber might, at
least in terms of raw material. It seems to us (unsubstantiated opinion)
that a plumber might tend to maximize his *time* and not necessarily the
quality of the materials - unless specifically asked to by the homeowner
(who must correspondingly be willing to pay for the extra parts cost and
labor).


Bill is in his final shower as we speak. The gas is off.


He can sing in that steaming hot shower for as long as he likes and, for
once, I won't be on his back about wasting the hot water!


Donna


This has been a very informative thread. ďż˝ I didn't appreciate that our
15-year old water heater (61 gallon - State / 0.55 ER) is likely on
borrowed time. ďż˝ The first one in our home was replaced after just 8
years (previous owner). ďż˝ As someone pointed out, now is probably a good
time to start researching a replacement.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -



i take a different view, after having one start leaking with house
guests coming right before christmas.

i replace mine at the time of my choosing, on my schedule.

peace of mind and lack of hassles plus no worry about water leak
damage, and can shop around for best deal, and get better efficency
from new tank and i went larger with a high output tank.

do you wait for everything you own to totally quit before replacing?



Generally speaking, yes. I tend to drive cars until they get to the

point (providing regular maintenance) of requiring significant repairs
(as a second car, always maintaining a good first car).

I don't expect to replace appliances (vacuum cleaner, dish washer,
stove, refrigerator, washer, dryer, toaster, etc) until they are in
need of repair. It's at that point when I typically determine if its
cost effective to replace or repair (typically it's best to toss at that
point). I also wait for light bulbs to burn out, etc. My three lawn
mowers each last about 15 years... till they died.

What other items do you replace on a regular basis?

 

[Meat Plow]

On Mon, 17 Dec 2007 11:39:46 +0000, Frank wrote:

Hey all,

I have a Samsung Syncmaster 175V LCD monitor with a dim picture. It's
almost like the backlight is bad, but then when you use the on-screen
display, the menu is perfectly bright.

The menu appears "locked", and one time I did manage to get it
unlocked by pressing some button sequence, but have not yet been able
to repeat the feat.

After unlocking the display, the monitor seemed to be fine (i.e. full
brightness across the entire screen). However, every time the monitor
is turned off, it returns to this dim state.

I did some Google searches, and did see similar problems, but no real
solutions (one person did have an identical problem, but htere was no
solution posted as yet).

Any ideas? This monitor was very nice in it's day, and considering
the OSD shows up nice and bright, I tend to shy away from a backlight
problem.

So you cannot get the monitor's setup unlocked?

 

[Frank]

On Mon, 17 Dec 2007 12:48:00 -0500, Meat Plow <meat@petitmorte.net>
wrote:

On Mon, 17 Dec 2007 11:39:46 +0000, Frank wrote:

Hey all,

I have a Samsung Syncmaster 175V LCD monitor with a dim picture. It's
almost like the backlight is bad, but then when you use the on-screen
display, the menu is perfectly bright.

The menu appears "locked", and one time I did manage to get it
unlocked by pressing some button sequence, but have not yet been able
to repeat the feat.

After unlocking the display, the monitor seemed to be fine (i.e. full
brightness across the entire screen). However, every time the monitor
is turned off, it returns to this dim state.

I did some Google searches, and did see similar problems, but no real
solutions (one person did have an identical problem, but htere was no
solution posted as yet).

Any ideas? This monitor was very nice in it's day, and considering
the OSD shows up nice and bright, I tend to shy away from a backlight
problem.


So you cannot get the monitor's setup unlocked?

Between last night and today, I found out how to unlock the controls
(hold + & - at the same time), but they become locked again. I don't
yet see a pattern other than they get locked if the PC and monitor get
turned off.

I will be trying a second video card shortly as well.

Very odd.

Thanks.

 

[Meat Plow]

On Tue, 18 Dec 2007 01:09:55 +0000, Frank wrote:

On Mon, 17 Dec 2007 12:48:00 -0500, Meat Plow <meat@petitmorte.net
wrote:

On Mon, 17 Dec 2007 11:39:46 +0000, Frank wrote:

Hey all,

I have a Samsung Syncmaster 175V LCD monitor with a dim picture. It's
almost like the backlight is bad, but then when you use the on-screen
display, the menu is perfectly bright.

The menu appears "locked", and one time I did manage to get it
unlocked by pressing some button sequence, but have not yet been able
to repeat the feat.

After unlocking the display, the monitor seemed to be fine (i.e. full
brightness across the entire screen). However, every time the monitor
is turned off, it returns to this dim state.

I did some Google searches, and did see similar problems, but no real
solutions (one person did have an identical problem, but htere was no
solution posted as yet).

Any ideas? This monitor was very nice in it's day, and considering
the OSD shows up nice and bright, I tend to shy away from a backlight
problem.


So you cannot get the monitor's setup unlocked?

Between last night and today, I found out how to unlock the controls
(hold + & - at the same time), but they become locked again. I don't
yet see a pattern other than they get locked if the PC and monitor get
turned off.

I will be trying a second video card shortly as well.

Very odd.

Yes it is odd. Why not leave the monitor on? It will go into sleep mode if
you shut the PC off. Maybe then the settings will stay. Very tough to
trouble shoot stuff when there is no pattern to replicate the problem.
Kind of like the high speed setting for the fan on my Chevy SUV. Sometimes
it doesn't blow. You can mess around with the knob all you want but there
is no pattern. It never stops when on high but sometimes will not switch
to high from a lower speed. And it will never go on if the switch is
left on high when it's not working but you can switch it to a lower speed
and 99% of the time sooner or later it will run when switched to high,
usually sooner than later.

 

[Jamie]

cuhulin@webtv.net wrote:

I don't remember exactly how much money I paid for my electric water
heater about twenty something years ago, around $120.00, I think.Two
''Japanese socket sets'' (my old pipe wrenches and an old can of pipe
dope I have had here for more years than I can remember) but then I
discovered I had to go back to the plumbing store and buy a copper flex
pipe.And I had it all done in about an hour or so.I have an automatic
dog water bowl hooked up to the water heater cold water pipe for my
little doggy, in case I fall and can't get up, or keel over from a heart
attack or something. www.cattledog.com www.acdca.org (She owns
the couch)
cuhulin

My dog is a German Shepherd and Rottweiler, she owns the whole house!

http://www.unav.es/digilab/proyectosenl/2002/miserio_bakersfield/images/rottweiler.jpg
Take that ! snap snap!

--
"I'd rather have a bottle in front of me than a frontal lobotomy"

http://webpages.charter.net/jamie_5"

 

I don't remember exactly how much money I paid for my electric water
heater about twenty something years ago, around $120.00, I think.Two
''Japanese socket sets'' (my old pipe wrenches and an old can of pipe
dope I have had here for more years than I can remember) but then I
discovered I had to go back to the plumbing store and buy a copper flex
pipe.And I had it all done in about an hour or so.I have an automatic
dog water bowl hooked up to the water heater cold water pipe for my
little doggy, in case I fall and can't get up, or keel over from a heart
attack or something. www.cattledog.com www.acdca.org (She owns
the couch)
cuhulin

 

[hallerb@aol.com]

i was selling a home and the jerk home inspector failed the brand new
hot water tanks gas valve, and required it be installed by a licensed
plumber.

the tanks manufacturer sent out a whole new controller within 2 days.

the plumber reported no leak on the original one, just a home
inspector wanting to justify his fee.

plumber who i know said that sort of thing is common

 

On Feb 17, 10:52 am, "Donna Ohl, Grady Volunteer Coordinator"
<donna....@sbcglobal.net> wrote:

On Sun, 17 Feb 2008 05:44:55 -0800 (PST), trad...@optonline.net wrote:
I don't know why you continue to dismiss a 12 year warranty on the
water heater as useless.   You seem to be saying that because that is
about the typical life of a water heater, that the warranty is of no
value.  Yet you value a 1 year warranty on labor?  

Hi Trader,

Thanks for keeping up on this. Maybe I'm wrong on the warrantee but I took
logic in college and the warrantee seems like a useless marketing tool to
me when I read through what I have to do in order to "make good" on it.

It's hard for me to write this reply because I feel the warranty is only an
advertising gimmick which, to me, is only useful for the first year, mainly
because I'm never going to take the water heater apart and bring it to the
store to obtain the "free" replacement after the first year

You don't have to take the water heater anywhere. As I said, when my
State had the thermocouple fail, all I did was call State up. They
looked it up on their database, determined it was under warranty, and
I had a replacement on my doorstep in 2 days. No charge, no sending
parts back.

Now, I don't know exactly how they handle the case where you have a
leaking water heater. Perhaps they have a local rep or dealer take a
look at it. But I'm sure they don't want you shipping the water
heater back to them.




- and - the

alternative is to pay as much for the labor as the entire water heater cost
in the first place - so the "free" replacement costs just as much as the
original parts if I have a plumber come to me to inspect, diagnose, and
replace it.

If the water heater fails, then you need a new one, don't you?
Without the warranty, you're out not only the labor, but also the cost
of buying a new water heater, which is ~$400.


The warrantee seems absolutely useless to me, after the first

year given those realistic concerns.

It fails in year seven. With a 10 year warranty, you get a either
free parts or a new tank. Without it, you get zippos and the labor is
the same.

Worse than that, I read the entire text of the Sears "12-year limited
warranty" which intimates Sears will replace parts that are defective and
the water heater itself *only* if it develops a leak (no other replacement
is warranted).

Well, what did you expect? That sounds perfectly reasonable to me.
If the thermocouple, valve, burner assembly, etc go, you get those
parts. If the tank goes, you get a whole new unit.

installing it yourself, there is no labor anyway,
so why is that even an issue?

This is the ENTIRE issue! If I have to remove the entire water heater in
order to bring it to the store just to see if they'll warrant the parts or
the leaking tank, that's absolutely crazy!

Who said you have to bring it to the store?



Do people really remove their

water heater, truck it in the back of their car to the store, have someone
at the store look at it and decide whether or not to replace the parts,
then, if they decide not to, you truck it back home and re-install it? Or,
if they decide to replace the parts, they hand you the new parts and you
truck the whole drippy thing back home to re-install it? I think not.

If you read my previous post, I told you exactly how State handled my
warranty claim.

If I need to make good on the warrantee, the only way I'll ever do it is to
call a Sears plumber at 800-469-4663 who will likely charge me as much for
the visit as the thing cost in the first place. Sure, I'll get a new water
heater - and it will cost me exactly what it cost when I bought it
considering I MUST use their labor. I have no choice this second time
around.

Does anything in the warranty say you have to use a Sears plumber?
My State warranty had no reqt as to who had to make the repair. I
made the repair myself and State had no problem simply supplying the
parts.

My whole point is the automobile analogy you provided is exactly opposite
of reality! You can easily DRIVE the car to the dealership to get a part
diagnosed and fixed but to drive your water heater to the Sears store would
be ludicrous (for me).

I didn't drive mine anywhere.

Do you see why the automobile analogy doesn't apply for a water heater?
Bringing the water heater to the dealer isn't an option.
To bring the dealer to the water heater costs as much as the water heater.
It's that simple to me.

Even if it were true that you had to bring the water heater back to
where you bought it, your statement still wouldn't be true. Let's
see. Water heater is spewing water from a shot tank. It's under
warranty. Either way it has to be removed. Once it's out, under your
scenario, you could take it back to where you bought it and get a new
one for free. How does it cost $400 to take it back? Or you could
go buy a new one for $400 and then do what with the old one? Many
places you have to take it somewhere anyway to get rid of it. If
you're getting a new one, it seems you could certainly take the old
one back to the store. But I don't think this is a realistic
scenario. They aren't going to expect you to drag the old one to
them and they don't want it.

Donna

 

[clams_casino]

Donna Ohl, Grady Volunteer Coordinator wrote:

On Sun, 17 Feb 2008 11:04:53 -0500, clams_casino wrote:
On Sun, 17 Feb 2008 11:04:53 -0500, clams_casino wrote:


Do get it right. A family recently died of carbon monoxide poisoning



Hi clams,

We *are* doing it right. That's why I'm here in the first place. To get it
right. I do appreciate the help. From everyone. And, I'll give back by
posting the tutorial for others like us to follow.

In fact, we feel we're possibly doing it *better* than a plumber might, at
least in terms of raw material. It seems to us (unsubstantiated opinion)
that a plumber might tend to maximize his *time* and not necessarily the
quality of the materials - unless specifically asked to by the homeowner
(who must correspondingly be willing to pay for the extra parts cost and
labor).

Bill is in his final shower as we speak. The gas is off.

He can sing in that steaming hot shower for as long as he likes and, for
once, I won't be on his back about wasting the hot water!

Donna

This has been a very informative thread. I didn't appreciate that our
15-year old water heater (61 gallon - State / 0.55 ER) is likely on
borrowed time. The first one in our home was replaced after just 8
years (previous owner). As someone pointed out, now is probably a good
time to start researching a replacement.

 

[Nate Nagel]

hallerb@aol.com wrote:

i was selling a home and the jerk home inspector failed the brand new
hot water tanks gas valve, and required it be installed by a licensed
plumber.

the tanks manufacturer sent out a whole new controller within 2 days.

the plumber reported no leak on the original one, just a home
inspector wanting to justify his fee.

plumber who i know said that sort of thing is common

I guess I must be lucky, the guy that did our home inspection was very
nice and the only thing I can fault him on is the stuff he missed, and
all of the stuff he missed he couldn't have seen without removing cover
plates, moving ceiling tiles, etc. which he probably couldn't have done.

nate

--
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
http://members.cox.net/njnagel

 

[James Sweet]

I was wondering why some hot water heater repair guides said to use Teflon
tape (TPFE?) on the water lines but pipe dope (TPE?) on the gas lines yet
the tube that I bought says it works for both gas and water. That's
confusing. I was careful to only state in my hot water heater step by step
guide just what I had read in other guides, taking the best except where
they conflicted.

It's mostly a matter of preference. When using teflon tape, there's yellow
stuff rated for fuel use which is what you should use on gas lines, or you
can use pipe dope. A book I have on plumbing which is written by a long time
plumber recommends using both, and indeed I've started doing that on gas
lines and have yet to have a leak. Put on a thin coat of pipe dope, wrap a
couple layers of teflon tape tightly, then brush a little pipe dope over
that and screw it in. Make sure the tape stays on the threads and doesn't
scrunch back when you thread it in, and screw it down tight enough but not
too tight, I know that's probably not very helpful but I don't know how to
describe it. Use a pipe wrench, they're cheap. I use a pair of vice grip
pliars to hold the existing pipe so I don't unscrew it while unscrewing
fittings from that.

 

[James Sweet]

This is much like what a software engineer does when writing routine or
complex software, is it not?

Very much so, the good ones anyway.

 

[James Sweet]

"Donna Ohl, Grady Volunteer Coordinator" <donna.ohl@sbcglobal.net> wrote in
message news:iG_tj.830$pl4.586@newssvr22.news.prodigy.net...

On Sun, 17 Feb 2008 11:37:36 -0600, msg wrote:
Are you planning on posting your photos and tutorial?
What would be the URL?

I don't know.

Last time I got help here was for the hot air furnace which needed to be
taken apart and cleaned because the limit kept kicking in.
http://groups.google.com/group/alt.home.repair/browse_thread/thread/94746b0668e8b6e5/41f1c7f208260970?lnk=gst&q=furnace+cleaned+donna+photo+posted#41f1c7f208260970

I posted *those* clogged-furnace pictures here
http://www.flickr.com/photos/23329283@N07/

But nobody seemed to care so I wasn't sure whether it would help or not to
post my pictures of a mundane (to you guys!) hot water heater replacement
job.

Donna

Wow, that's a nasty filthy clogged up evaporator. I bet your A/C bill was a
lot lower after cleaning that as well, and it probably kept the house a lot
cooler.

 

[James Sweet]

"Donna Ohl, Grady Volunteer Coordinator" <donna.ohl@sbcglobal.net> wrote in
message news:e5Qtj.662$tW.403@nlpi070.nbdc.sbc.com...

On Wed, 13 Feb 2008 15:10:03 -0800 (PST), hallerb@aol.com wrote:
add be prepared to replace drain valve, which may not shut or drip
when closed, espically the plastic ones. some valves will clog replace
tank drain valve with a ball valve at new tank install time

Thank you for all the advice!
You've given us the courage to tackle this ourselves!
Bill and I read *every* post here!

To replace our dripping 40-gallon (65-gallon FHR) home water heater, we
bought the best water heater I could find.

This turned out to be the $450 Sears #33154 (actually manufactured by AO
Smith) 97-gallon First Hour Rating (FHR) and 0.63 Energy Factor (EF),
nominally with a 50-gallon tank and coming with a (rather useless) 12-year
warranty on parts and a slightly useful 1-year warranty on labor.

We're going to do the job tomorrow so I'm reading *everything* I can find
on the net on how to properly remove and install a natural gas home hot
water heater. I'll summarize the steps we plan on taking in a subsequent
posting.

So far, Bill bought $686.47 in parts while I write up every step for him
before we do the work tomorrow, together. He will return any unused parts,
but here is what he bought from Sears today to get ready for the job.

$449.00 Sears #33154 50-gallon 12/1 year hot water heater 97FHR .63EF
$ 2.19 1-ounce TFE paste (for the gas pipe fittings)
$ 9.59 3/4-inch quarter-turn water valve (replaces plastic drain valve)
$ 8.99 3/4-inch CSA gas ball valve (for the gas line)
$ 15.99 3/4-inch swing check valve (for additional heat-loss protection)
$ 7.99 18" 3/4-inch by 3/4 inch FIP corrugated copper/brass flex pipe
(x2)
$ 7.49 15" 3/4-inch by 3/4 inch FIP corrugated copper/brass flex pipe
(x2)
$ 5.99 12" 3/4-inch by 3/4 inch FIP corrugated copper/brass flex pipe
(x2)
$ 12.99 18" 3/4-inch stainless-steel water-heater connector pipe (x2)
$ 10.99 12" 3/4-inch stainless-steel water-heater connector pipe (x2)
$ 8.99 3/4-inch by 3/4-inch Dialectric Union B (x4)
$ 3.59 1.5-inch long 3/4-inch male:male brass pipe nipples (x4)
$ 2.39 1.0-inch long 3/4-inch male:male brass pipe nipples (x3)
$ 52.32 sales tax at 8.25%
--------
$686.47 total

The reason for *both* the copper flex pipe and stainless steel pipe is
because the stainless steel might allow us to not need the dialectric
unions which are huge. Remember, the new tank is five inches taller than
the old tank so we are going to have problems with the plumbing most
likely
so having fewer nipples and dialectric unions will shorten the lines a
bit.

Do we really need to isolate the copper from the brass from the steel?
We assume so.

Also, we bought the extra one-way check valve even though the water heater
apparently comes with heat-loss protectors and we can s-kink the flex
lines
(not the steel lines, just the copper lines).

Do you think the one-way hot-water-outlet check valve will work to slow
heat loss?

Note we didn't buy the insulating blanket for the water heater, nor the
insulation for the hot-water pipes yet. We figured we could do that later.

Our biggest question is whether we really needed the dialectric unions.
Since they were female:female, that necessitated brass nipples on each
side, further lengthening the lines which we need to shorten.

What do you think?
Donna & Bill

It would be worthwhile to check the local plumbing codes, there's a national
code, but additional requirements vary by location.

Assuming the original heater was properly installed, you should be fine to
do the new one exactly the same way. 3/4" seems awfully large for a water
heater, all those I've dealt with were plumbed with 1/2" gas pipe and 3/4"
water pipe. I'm not sure why the ball valve for the gas is being replaced as
well, isn't there already a suitable shutoff valve? If you mess with the gas
plumbing ahead of the shutoff, you have to pressure test it and have it
inspected. Assuming the original plumbing is not damaged, I would leave the
ball valve and everything ahead (closer to the gas meter) of it alone. Take
care to hold the pipe so that it doesn't rotate and cause leaks at the
joints when you disconnect it from the valve. Replace the flexible pipe
between the heater and gas pipe in the house, you may or may not have to
rearange the pipe from the heater to the flex depending on the location.

I can't speak for your area, but here the standard setup is black iron pipe
in the house, with a 1/2" branch split off for the water heater. This goes
directly to a ball valve to shut off the gas to that appliance, and out of
that is a short length of black iron joining to a stainless flex which then
connects to another short piece of black iron, occasionally with an elbow or
two to change direction and connect up to the gas valve on the heater. Older
houses often lack the stainless flex and instead do the whole thing with
black iron using a ground joint union between the ball valve and the heater
to let you put it all together, but I like the flex better, it's a lot
easier to get things lined up.

When you do the flue vent, sometimes it goes straight up through the roof,
in that case you'll probably have to get up on top and remove a screw or two
through the roof jack to allow you to push the pipe up through the ceiling
to let you slide the heaters in and out. If it goes off at an angle and tees
into the furnace flue or goes through a wall, you can usually flex it enough
to work. Take extra care to get the vent right, a gas leak you'll smell, a
water leak you'll see, but an exhaust leak will just kill you.

As for insulation, often the water heater will come with some sections of
pipe insulation to take care of the flex lines in and out of it.

 

[hallerb@aol.com]

if the OPs home is galavanized its time for them to buy a PEX tool to
replace their plumbing, PEX is cheap and super easy to work
with.........

 

[Rod Speed]

Donna Ohl, Grady Volunteer Coordinator <donna.ohl@sbcglobal.net> wrote:

On Sun, 17 Feb 2008 10:59:36 -0600, msg wrote:
odd that such detail would be accorded to a routine task.
Donna, what is your employment or educational background?

Hi msg,

I retired from a career in public-school teaching two years ago.

At one point, I taught very young autistic and aspergers children; we
found the best therapy for their social disability was to break down
even the most mundane of tasks into their every component.

By behavioral modification, the children could perform the behavior on
their own, outside the classroom.

This is much like what a software engineer does when writing routine
or complex software, is it not?

Nope.