Toshiba TV29C90 problem; Image fades to black...

Thierry Courret wrote:

BOSS - SE50 : Stereo Effects Processor

Many of the presets (manually programmable from n°1 to 100) must be
set
again.
Example of message displayed on n°81:

_____________
| |
| 81 (" KX$DT |
| HALL 1 |
|_____________|

==> Does anyone know the procedure to retrieve the factoty settings
???

This might avoid a hundred manual programs...

restore factory settings by
holding the Parameter (arrow up) and Value (arrow up) buttons
and switching on the power.
It will ask you if you want to initialize, press Write, then Write
again.

 

[CWatters]

"James" <rotoquad@***NOSPAMTHANKS***earthlink.net> wrote in message
news:6yJUd.1$pu2.0@tattler.gsu.edu...

Haven't looked that the circuit, but if they follow normal convention.....

"A.Grnd" - From J4 (A4) - (Is that 'all ground'?)

Probably Analog ground - perhaps for joystick potentiometer or speaker.

"V.Batt" - From J4 (A5) - (Something battery?)

Battery Voltage.

"Logic Grnd" - From J4 (A2)(B3)(C3) and J5 (B4) - (Special Ground?)

Logic Ground - eg seperate to Analog ground so as not to put digital noise
on the analog signals via a common ground.

Normally Logic Ground and Analog ground are connected together at only one
point somewhere. That point is usually either in the power supply or
somewhere where digital and analog worlds meet eg near the input of any
analog to digital converter or preamp.

 

[James]

Awesome, thanks for the feedback!

"CWatters" <colin.watters@pandoraBOX.be> wrote in message
news:MiKUd.23421$O67.2680862@phobos.telenet-ops.be...

"James" <rotoquad@***NOSPAMTHANKS***earthlink.net> wrote in message
news:6yJUd.1$pu2.0@tattler.gsu.edu...

Haven't looked that the circuit, but if they follow normal convention.....

"A.Grnd" - From J4 (A4) - (Is that 'all ground'?)

Probably Analog ground - perhaps for joystick potentiometer or speaker.

"V.Batt" - From J4 (A5) - (Something battery?)

Battery Voltage.

"Logic Grnd" - From J4 (A2)(B3)(C3) and J5 (B4) - (Special Ground?)

Logic Ground - eg seperate to Analog ground so as not to put digital noise
on the analog signals via a common ground.

Normally Logic Ground and Analog ground are connected together at only one
point somewhere. That point is usually either in the power supply or
somewhere where digital and analog worlds meet eg near the input of any
analog to digital converter or preamp.

 

[Lew]

Hello,
I have a SOny KV-35S42 that seems to be doing much the same thing.
Picture comes on fine at first, then in a minute or two, it comes on
and off at around 2 second intervals. The picture seems to be fine
when it is "on". I have been looking into the ABL circuits for
possible troubles or other video "blanking" circuits. Also, so far I am
suspicious of D519? (High speed switching recitfier in that that feeds
an input to the video select chip. I have scoped the outputs of this
chip and they are turning on and off during this....(of course.) This
TV is a 1999 model and is in great shape other than this. I would be
interested in what the service tech told found or what he did, if
anything to fix this???

Thank
Lew

 

[nchabra]

hello John, I am interested in qty of this lamp. Please let me know
these are original factory fresh item? Also the part number I am
looking for is panasonic TEEC0024-1 ? please email me your reply asap
to nchabra@amccorp.com

thx..


--
nchabra

 

On 26 Feb 2005 01:07:12 GMT, Jim Yanik <jyanik@abuse.gov.> wrote:

snip

Perhaps a leaky cap (0.1uf IIRC)on one of the sample&hold IC inputs that
'buffer' the delta time pots before AD conversion.Maybe nonlinear.
(here's where the manual's circuit description comes in handy)

When at TEK,I would have used my test microprocessor board,or one from a
similar unit,but you don't have that option.

Thanks for your replies, they've been most helpful. As soon as I get
some time, I'm going to dig into it, but for now we'll just use main
time and use the other one for delayed sweep.

Thanks again for the help,
Steve

 

[James Sweet]

"Trouty" <trouthead54@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:1109617863.641444.3890@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com...

hi there,

A little bit of advice about IC holders please!

I'm modifying a circuit that has a very small 14 pin surface mount Op
Amp that I need to tap into 9to feed off into another circuit). I
reckon my best bet is to "piggy back" an IC socket holder onto the one
that is already on the circuit board (ie solder onto it) as this will
give me a nice stable platform & I can also use pins into the relevant
IC socket legs.


My problem is that this is quite a small op amp. I've measured the
pins...between pins 1-7 (ie one side of the 14 pin) the distance is
only 8mm in total. Does such an IC socket exist? If so where can I
source one from?

Many thanks in antcipation.

Trouty

The easiest (and usual) method for doing this is to solder wire wrap wire or
something similarly small to the existing pins, IC sockets for common
surface mount parts aren't available, at least not commonly. You may be able
to hack in a standard IC socket and use a different op-amp in a DIP package
though.

 

[motsco_ _]

Colin Swift wrote:

Hi,

I've been given a wavefront travel case Theremin to repair.... seems the
power supply is dead, it has a 3 pin DIN connector alas I am not 100% sure
as to what the voltages should be on these pins? Is there anyone out there
who knows? I tried e-mailing the company however haven't received a reply.

So far the voltages measured on the pins on the din connector are -12, 0
and -0.71V - I guess the latter pin should be +12v. The power supply that
came with the unit is an adapted computer psu with output voltages of +/-12v
and +5v - but only 3 outputs are used. Looking at the resistor to the 'on'
LED (220 ohms) I am now 90% sure that there should be +12V and not +5V on
this line. I just want to be 100% sure if possible. The transformer is one
of those impossible to open things (sealed - cant see any screws) and as its
not mine, I'm not overly keen to take a hacksaw to it.

Anyway, hope someone out there knows, tho I guess its a long shot so
thanks in advance for your help.

Colin

----------------------------

I dunno, but if you ever get it fixed, please feel free to yell "Beam Me
Up, Scotty!!"

'motsco'

 

[NSM]

"motsco_ _" <"motsco_ _"@interbaun.com> wrote in message
news:42240229.8070804@interbaun.com...

I dunno, but if you ever get it fixed, please feel free to yell "Beam Me
Up, Scotty!!"

What does that have to do with a Theremin?

N

 

[Colin Swift]

I've been given a wavefront travel case Theremin to repair.... seems the
power supply is dead, it has a 3 pin DIN connector alas I am not 100% sure
as to what the voltages should be on these pins? Is there anyone out there
who knows? I tried e-mailing the company however haven't received a reply.

Hi,

Have got the Theremin working, tho I'm still unsure as to the correct
operational voltage. I used a 7 volt battery on the non-working +V line and
lo and behold the thing lights up and plays just fine. as folks have pointed
out, the LED resistor points to the +V line being 5 volts. The LED is
actually a panel mount LED unit which has written on the side 5V, 20MA -
though this still means the resistor is a bit low for 12V, also a bit high
for a 5V supply. There is an IC which is fed off the two supply lines which
( LM13600, according to the data sheets) requires +/- 15volts.

I guess the main thing is its working and building a PSU for it will be no
problem.

Thanks for your help.

Colin

 

[Asimov]

"NSM" bravely wrote to "All" (01 Mar 05 06:31:46)
--- on the heady topic of "Re: Wavefront travel case Theremin Repair"

NS> From: "NSM" <nowrite@to.me>
NS> Xref: aeinews sci.electronics.repair:42073


NS> "motsco_ _" <"motsco_ _"@interbaun.com> wrote in message
NS> news:42240229.8070804@interbaun.com...

I dunno, but if you ever get it fixed, please feel free to yell "Beam Me
Up, Scotty!!"

NS> What does that have to do with a Theremin?

Sargent had a theremin in the original Star Trek TV show theme music.
BTW the Beach Boys' "Good Vibrations" used one too.

A*s*i*m*o*v

.... Guitar smashing doesn't bother me. Some "need" smashing. -Chet Atkins

 

[Dave VanHorn]

I've been given a wavefront travel case Theremin to repair.... seems the
power supply is dead, it has a 3 pin DIN connector alas I am not 100% sure
as to what the voltages should be on these pins? Is there anyone out there
who knows? I tried e-mailing the company however haven't received a reply.

You might ask on Levnet, I don't own that type, but I'd be VERY surprised if
one of us dosen't have the info you seek.

So far the voltages measured on the pins on the din connector are -12, 0
and -0.71V - I guess the latter pin should be +12v.

Almost certainly.


FWIW, how did you come by it?

 

[Jim Adney]

On Tue, 1 Mar 2005 03:58:05 -0500 "Jerry G." <jerryg50@hotmail.com>
wrote:

Did you call the authorized Sony parts dealer near to you, in case they can
find the parts for you?

I'm afraid I have no idea who to contact. I was hoping for some of the
upgraded part #s first, as well as an appropriate contact. I'm not in
this business, so I really don't know where to look for resources,
other than this NG.

Have any suggestions?

-
-----------------------------------------------
Jim Adney jadney@vwtype3.org
Madison, WI 53711 USA
-----------------------------------------------

 

[Jim Adney]

On Tue, 1 Mar 2005 11:05:28 +0100 "Bram Stolk Sr"
<bram2.stolk@wanadoo.nl> wrote:

Yes, it can be done (actually I did it myself years ago)...you must grind
down the remaining plastic hinge from the rotating ring using a ""Dremel""
or other miniature type of dentist drill.
Sony used to have a replacement pin which comes with a metal hinge and new
spring which you can install on the smoothed rotating ring using two
mini-screws..it is a rewarding job to get it done without removing any
parts...Probably by today you'll be better off to find an old sony beta
machine and canibalise the parts from there...

Sounds like you're describing exactly the repair that I had in mind.
Do you know the part #s for the replacement pins and hinges? And any
possible sources of supply?

thanks,

-
-----------------------------------------------
Jim Adney jadney@vwtype3.org
Madison, WI 53711 USA
-----------------------------------------------

 

[Shoreline Electronics]

Check this tip :

---------------------------------------------------------------
Text pasted from WinSTIPS 2.0
http://www.ServiceSoftware.com
---------------------------------------------------------------

PIONEER PRO510HD

Blue Tube Flashing

Dan Mundy, Cet/Csm

Check For Bad Connections Around E3 On Power Pwb. This Was Driving The Blue
Cathode (And Only Blue) As Low As 90 Volts. 200v Supply Was Not Effected.

---------------------------------------------------------------



--
==========================
Jeff Stielau
Shoreline Electronics Repair
344 East Main Street
Clinton,CT 06413
860-399-1861
860-664-3535 (fax)
jstielau@snet.net
========================

"VICKKILYN GALLAGHER" <dougandvikki@verizon.net> wrote in message
news:kDiVd.47933$t46.30121@trndny04...

Hi all,

I've been having a nagging problem over the last 15 months or so where the
blue tube on my Pioneer PRO-510HD never seems to completely shut off
causing visible blue hue during dark scenes . Hue is basically trapezoidal
and accompanied by inverted arc running along top of screen. This shape
widens somewhat when the 1080i (33kHz) scan rate is used, but its still
there. With a blank input selected and front cover off, the blue crt has a
dim glow about it while the red and green tubes are totally black. Also
minor flashes of blue randomly occur which are very distracting. All this
is painfully obvious when viewing dark programming in a dim room which is
how I first noticed it.

I've replaced low voltage PS (twice) without luck. Swapped video signals
with G drive board and problem remains on blue. Disconnected SVM coil -
no joy. After some research using Sams FAQ, determined that common
elements like H and V deflection, flyback, and chroma decoder couldn't be
at fault without affecting other guns. Only option left was mark and
adjust SCREEN (G2) pot. No dice, when raised too much screen went totally
blue (with no input), when lowered it made no difference. Lastly, tried
changing Vref setting at non-inverting input of video amp in the hopes
that beam cutoff (G1) wasn't being fully acheived at black causing a low
level "leakage" beam emission- again, no change visible.

I haven't swapped the driver card with another in the set yet since it
would be more complicated than I'm willing to undertake at this point
given the wiring constraints. This is also because another individual
repoting this *exact* same set of symptoms had a tech working on it with
direct support from Pioneer for months before essentially giving up. The
guy then got the schematics and first thing he changed was the driver
card - but it wasn't it. (He also changed dig conv, deflection and video
ip assy all with no luck.)

So, just wondering if anyone has ever seen a blue CRT go bad like this? I
would say I got about 3 years of trouble-free operation out of it before I
started to notice this behavior. Its not a common problem, in a year of
asking around I've only ever seen this one other person recently report
the same issue. Naturally, since replacing a tube isn't trivial, I want to
be absolutely sure before I go down this path.

Any comments or feedback greatly appreciated. My apologies for the lengthy
post!

Regards,

Doug

 

[Doug]

I think that Radio Shack doesn't want salespeople with a lot of product
knowledge or interest. They might spend too much time talking to
someone and blow a sale.

Doug

 

Make sure you have an NTE116 across the meter line, the feed back there
freaks out the whole board. thats the same powersupply the used in dosens of
different machine, it shouldn't be that hard to find one if you need a
backup. Not much help, I always replaced them with a Peter Chow switching
powersupply, but that would Kill your restoration.

 

[James]

Forgive me, I am still learning. What is a NTE116, and how would I place it
"across the meter line"

Might need to talk to me like I am 2...

Thanks, James

<egotripno1@nowhere.com> wrote in message
news:0xlVd.3979$wy3.2510@newsread3.news.atl.earthlink.net...

Make sure you have an NTE116 across the meter line, the feed back there
freaks out the whole board. thats the same powersupply the used in dosens
of
different machine, it shouldn't be that hard to find one if you need a
backup. Not much help, I always replaced them with a Peter Chow switching
powersupply, but that would Kill your restoration.

 

[NSM]

"Doug" <rarpa50@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1109775153.855867.101990@g14g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...

I think that Radio Shack doesn't want salespeople with a lot of product
knowledge or interest. They might spend too much time talking to
someone and blow a sale.

My manager said the same thing. If they can answer "Which end of the
resistor is the plus end?" they can't sell.

N

 

[Electroshrek]

aman wrote:

Why dont you use a proto-board instead ?

Or, if only a IC socket is needed, a Textool socket

will do your job, I'd reckon