Toshiba TV29C90 problem; Image fades to black...

[Jerry G.]

Put the non working card in the Camera. Look for the format control in the
camera, and format its own memory card.

This type of thing usually happens if the card has been reformatted using a
computer, rather than the camera that it is intended for. 'The other reason
for this to happen, is that the card is failing. I have been using these
flash cards since the first ones that came out. I have not run in to a
defective one yet.

--

Jerry G.
======


"Tim Zimmerman" <Z@UCBerkeley.edu> wrote in message
news:IiGSd.8298$Pz7.6847@newssvr13.news.prodigy.com...
My 256MB Fuji camera memory card I had for a year won't store
pictures when a picture is taken. But it will respond to access from a PC
hook up via a USB cable. I went out and bought a 125MB card and
everything works like normal. Is it normal for a card to expire so soon
or did I abuse it?

Thanks

 

Capacitors are the problem. Maybe 50 to 100 of them.

 

[James T. White]

"M.Joshi" <M.Joshi.1kv5m7@news.diybanter.com> wrote in message
news:M.Joshi.1kv5m7@news.diybanter.com...

I don't know if this question is relevant here but is a de-solder wick
better and easier to use than a de-solder pump? I haven't had much
luck using a de-solder wick. They seem to just get clogged and you end
up putting the solder back on the connection instead of removing it.

Am I not using it correctly?

You might find that adding some solder flux makes the wick pull the solder off
the connection much better. When the end of the braid gets tinned with solder,
it's time to cut it off and start with clean wick end and more flux. Going
through lots of solder wick is a down side of this method.

--
James T. White

 

You search in this newsgroup in google groups.

 

[JAT]

I'll give that a try over the weekend Barney, and if it doesn't work I'll
try the scart leads as Graham suggested. Many thanks.

Alex

"Barney" <barneyxyzNOSPAM@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:gqadnXYJ6pog54rfRVnyjw@brightview.com...

It may be that the frequency of the carrier signal comung out of the VCR
is
a close to one of your TV channel frequencies -- and there is some
crosstalk
going on. You need to detune your VCR slightly -- there is normally a
screw
adjustment at the back of the VCR to enable you to do this. After you have
done this you will have to adjust the channel on the TV that you use for
VCR
playback accordingly.


"JAT" <alex@tyrrell2000.free-online.co.uk> wrote in message
news:42168aa6$0$53450$ed2619ec@ptn-nntp-reader03.plus.net...
Hi folks,
I'm having a problem with my video recorder. Whenever I switch
to
any channel on my TV the picture is perfect. However when I switch to
channel 0 which I use for video playback there is interference on the
screen
in the form of what I can only describe as a herringbone pattern. I've
went
back to basics and set everything up again from scratch but it has made
no
difference. What I can't understand is this, the lead from the outside
aerial goes into the video recorder, and the TV then receives it's feed
from
the video recorder via another lead. This means surely that there is
nothing
wrong with my aerial, otherwise I wouldn't be getting a perfect picture
on
my TV. Since we can therefore assume that the aerial is OK and is
delivering
a good signal to the video, does the problem lie within the video? If
that
is the case how can the signal pass through the video and provide a
perfect
picture on the TV when viewing the channels direct rather than through
channel 0 the playback channel? I've tried tuning another empty channel
to
act as the playback channel but the effect is the same. Any ideas what I
can
try here? Any help appreciated.

Alex

 

[Bill Jeffrey]

Lenny -

The RF is being demodulated somewhere in the house, and I suspect it is
the demodulated audio that is interfering with the modem. One thing you
might do (though it's time-consuming if done on a service call) is run
around the house and disconnect every device on the telephone circuit,
one by one, and see when the interference quits. Or disconnect 'em all
and then put 'em back one by one. You may be able to identify which
specific device is causing the interference.

BTW, if the audio level is high enough to interfere with a modem, it is
probably high enough to hear on a telephone handset. Do you have one of
those lineman's test sets so you can listen to the line even when you're
on hook? That would enable you to determine instantly what effect you
are having.

If it turns out that the modem itself is reacting to the presence of RF,
you might be able to construct a series-tuned LC filter and put it
directly across the line as it enters her modem. It should be a much
sharper (and deeper) filter than the Radio Shack jobbie.

Where did she put the Radio Shack filter, by the way? As close to the
modem as possible?

Or, as Isaac suggested, just put the modem near the service entrance, if
that really makes a difference (which would surprise me, by the way, but
the lady thinks it does, so ...).

Bill Jeffrey
===========================

captainvideo462002@yahoo.com wrote:

I'm going on a service call next week to address an issue of AM radio
interference on a telephone line. The lady has her computer connected
to this line and it seems to keep getting bumped off especially
throughout the day. There is a 5KW AM transmitter operating on 610KHZ
about a quarter of a mile from the customers home. At night they drop
their power to 1.0KW and she tells me the interference decreases. She
has tried filters purchased from Radio Shlock which were marked ".50MHZ
to 3.0MHZ but apparently they did not help.
The other day while discussing this with her on the phone, (she called
me from her work so I have never heard the interference), she told me
that someone had suggested that she plug her modem dierectly into the
interface on the side of the house. The length of cord used was
approximately 15 feet. When she did this she found that there was
apparently no interference problem. I'm suspecting then that if the
line is clean up to the interface, then the telephone company has
perhaps already addressed the close proximity transmitter issue in her
neighborhood using sheilded wire and perhaps filters on the street and
that her problem is the straight untwisted wiring throughout her home
which may be acting as an antenna.
I've considered running a new sheilded wire from the interface,
grounded to the telephone company's ground, directly to her computer.
I would try that first with no other house wiring connected.
In theory if that were the only line connected then that should work.
However, I would suspect that as soon as I would connect her existing
house wiring back up to the interface, (essentially reconnecting the
"antenna") the problem I would suspect would return.
Should I plan on completely rewiring the house with sheilded or does
anyone have any another ideas they might suggest? Thanks very much for
any assistance. Lenny Stein, Barlen Electronics.

 

[N Cook]

"Jeff Walther" <trag@io.com> wrote in message
news:trag-2102051302410001@206-224-83-164-dialup.io.com...

In article <ev9Sd.5831$oh4.223954@ursa-nb00s0.nbnet.nb.ca>, "Chris F."
zappymanREMOVETHIS@hotmail.com> wrote:

Can anyone recommend a good used desoldering station? I've been
looking
around on places like Ebay, and it seems even used ones can be pretty
expensive. Weller, Pace, and Hakko seem to be the predominant brand
names.
I basically need something for general electronics - TV's, VCRs, etc.
Something that can easily desolder a 64-pin IC, for example. I've been
using
a desoldering wick for years, it works but the stuff is rather expensive
(and hard on the fingertips sometimes). I don't do any surface-mount
work so
I wouldn't need anything for that.
Thanks for any advice.

If you want really cheap, get a heat gun with adjustable temperature and
some modeling clay.

Cover the surrounding components with modeling clay (so they don't blow
away), set the heat gun to about 600F and apply to the target component
until the solder melts and the components can be easily lifted or its pins
pushed out of their holes. I use a dental pick to test the solder every
few seconds to see if it's soft yet.

This is not the most component friendly method, but I've been using it on
home projects for several years, with very few failures.

I've removed things as simple as 32 pin DIPs and as complex as 208 pin
QFPs.

For clean-up afterwards you may still need braid. But with the component
removed you can use a wider braid (higher capacity per inch) and more
powered soldering pencil and the braid's price seems to be constant per
length regardless of width. Cleaning through-holes will be easier with
the pins removed and can be done with the various air methods mentioned by
others.

--
A friend will help you move. A real friend will help you move a body.

I can second that, used the following today to remove a 32 pinner
but most often use it for salvaging ICs before discarding rest.
No troubles with over-heating of the salvaged ICs.
Just to emphasise practise on an old board of TTL or such
before using for repair.
I own an old Pace, i think, de-solderer but last time i used it
was perhaps 3 years ago. The great advantage of the following is
you're pulling from the other side and it is very rare to dislodge
a solder pad/trace and extremely quick and cheap.

Other tips on
http://homepages.tcp.co.uk/~diverse/

De-soldering ICs
Use a hot-air paint-stripper,1400W,500 degree centigrade,with 2 level heat
control to prolong element life. Activity may appear fearsome but it is no
worse than a flow-solder bath.Pre-heat for one minute then apply to
pcb,make
extractor tool to pull ic from component side. Make an IC extractor from an
old large pair,10 inch, of
circlip pliers,the jaws need to open out enough to clip around the ends of
up to 64 pin
ICs with enough force to overcome the mechanical force of the situation
where all
the pins are angled relative to the PCB holes.Forge around both of the
original circlip
pins,one joggle at right angle to clear the heigth of the ICs and a slight
inwards joggle
to make purchase on the underside of the IC,grinding a wedge angle to the
points
helps particularly where there is no clearance between IC and pcb.
[ Because of these joggles this tool is also useful for depressing the rear
grippers
and releasing of that type chassis mount fuseholders and switches when
internally surrounded by other
components ]
Use this technique for salvaging (working order) up to 64 pin ics ( when
practised ),other
components, sm and even repair (tracks are not dislodged).For repair work
beware of
spatter of molten solder causing solder bridges on adjascent compoents
because if you
are doing the job properly,ie not dislodging pcb tracks the IC must be
pulled out with
some force and the board tends to flex so possibility of flicking solder.
The secret is to be as quick as possible,idealy the body of the extracted ic
will
be just about handleable rather than too hot to touch.Try practising on a
board
with close packed TTL chips or similar and aim for an extraction rate of
something like one every 2 seconds.Between boards keep the hot air gun
running on
low power setting (not switching off).Don't rest the gun against the board
when heating
as vibration seems to affect the element life also don't allow the board to
flex back onto the gun for the same reason.Hold the gun so airflow is angled
to the board
as solder spat directly into the nozzle can kill the element.
About the only components that cannot be removed with this technique are
parts
moulded in soft plastic,e.g. crystal sockets,rf coils with plastic former
(IF coils usually OK)
some DIP switches. Even these are desolderable intact if the body of the
component is previously
cooled with a blast of aerosol freezer spray.
SAFETY NOTE:- ensure good ventilation, use safety goggles because trapped
water etc in the capaillary structure of glass fibre reinfiorced PCB can
super-
heat to steam and jet out molten solder,also it is possible to overlook
small
electrolytic capacitors on the solder side of the board which of coarse
explode
with the direct heat of the hot air gun and beware of very
slight risk of combustion of adjascent flammable parts especially where
components have extra (un-noticed) mechanical bonding leading to extended
duration of heating activity.

Hint for de-soldering surface mount ICs.
Use a hot-air paint-stripper,1400W,500 degree centigrade,with 2 level heat
control to prolong element life.
Form a ring of silicone covered wire around the IC{to isolate the remaing
components on the pcb.Push a thin piece of wire
under one side of the IC and form a loop around the IC,repeat on the other
side;this is to remove the IC when the solder melts, tug on these wires
while
heating up to ensure minimum heating contact time.
Place a slab of PTFE with right size hole cut into and
clip pcb and slab together with clothes pegs/Bulldog clips etc.
If the IC is for re-use then cover body of IC with heat insulating material
or blast IC with freezer spray.Allow the hot-air gun to get up to heat{say 1
minute}
before applying to IC.
For more crowded boards make "conical" shrouds to surround the IC. I used
some PTFE strip that i had but thin paxolin or similar but drilled and wired
together would probably do. Cut 4 small trapezoids from the PTFE strip.
Fixed together with all long edges one side and short edges adjascent on the
other side. Fixed together with paper staples but for the smallest shroud
for 8 pin SM had to wire together the final join. Forms a sort of truncated
cone in shape. Tie to the PTFE cone (to stop the blower blowing it off) with
copper wire or temporarily solder to distant points.
When practised the heated contact time should be less than
2 seconds - no board distortion or collateral damage surprisingly.
If you can't get the tugging wires under the IC then pass
under a few pins at each corner.
Because this tugging frees the IC at the earliest moment, the solder
on the board is not fully melted and leaves a profile for localising
the new IC in place and then solder pin by pin.
SAFETY NOTE:- ensure good ventilation, use safety goggles,and beware of very
slight risk of combustion.

 

[Travis Jordan]

Paul Hirose wrote:

The Boston Globe has an article on the decline of the neighborhood
repair shop in the U.S.

That article was in the New York Times last weekend, and it is

Š 2005 The New York Times Company

 

[NSM]

"Paul Hirose" <iszintjv55@earINVALIDthlink.net> wrote in message
news:421CD29E.693A4266@earINVALIDthlink.net...

Spindler says there used to be four other shops like his in the area.
They're gone.

I sometimes idly think of starting up a shop repairing tube audio equipment
only. Those owners are probably ready to pay for the service.

N

 

[Charles Schuler]

It might not be such a bad thing (I mean by that the replacement approach as
opposed to repair). Having something diagnosed and repaired these days can
be like a tour through Dante's Inferno. Our pool heater (heat exchanger)
went out recently and it took five service calls to get it fixed (sort of).
It's not really fixed because now the bypass valve is screwed up (can no
longer bypass the heater), a pressure gauge is missing its cover and no
longer works, the cover of the heater is bulged out on the front as it was
improperly reinstalled, and the auto function of the heater no longer works
(no doubt a re-wiring error).

It seems to me that folks with a basic knowledge of mechanics and
electricity and a reasonable attitude about customer service are in VERY
short supply. I suppose that nowadays those with any ability go to law
school or earn MBAs.

 

[Jim Yanik]

steve wrote in news:ib5q11112g551er2n2g8lkgs3qt1vags3h@4ax.com:

The scope is a Tektronix 2465a, I don't have the S/N offhand, but I
can get it tomorrow if needed. It's a newer unit, with all
pushbuttons instead of toggle switches.

The problem is that when in delayed sweep, measuring delta t using
overlap gives wrong readings (i.e. overlapping two marks from a time
mark generator at 50us reads 52.5us), but using the cursors, still in
delayed sweep, it reads on (i.e. putting cursors on rising edges of
two pusles). The horizontal axis also is correct, and the cursors are
correct again. So, the only problem is when in B swp, overlapping two
pulses to get a reading gives wrong numbers. Using cursors in A or B
swp gives proper readings,

Do you magnify the sweep to get the best resolution for your overlap?
Or just overlapping a 50us/div A swp and a 50 us/div B swp? (for example)
Is this when you are following the cal procedure?

We tried going through cal 01, 02, 03, and 04 with no luck. The offset
error is uniform for all B swp times for each A swp time (i.e. for
A=200us, the error will be the same for all B times, appx 10.2us, for
A=50us, the error will be the same for all B times, appx 2.5us).
Sorry if this is confusing, I will gladly clear anything up if I can.

Any help would be greatly appreciated, we're just a small calibration
lab, family run, and right now our only other standard scope (another
2465), is waiting on pots from sphere.co.

You could try swapping the A and B sweep hybrids and recalibrating;maybe
there's a problem with one of the sweep hybrids.Or use the hybrids from the
2465(non-A)

On a different note, the other 2465 we have had a problem with the
display. After warming up for probably half an hour, some dots appear
on the screen. They are on vertical graticule lines, and turning the
trace and readout intenities down doesn't change them.

Possible Z-axis problem? (unblanking of the CRT,grid bias problem.)


If the dots appear on the readout areas,it indicates a calibration problem.

I've freeze
sprayed all I.C.'s with no effect. We aren't as concerned with this
problem, because the all time readings on this scope are dead on, and
we just need a NIST traceable reference so we can keep calibrating.

Thanks for any help you can give, and if I can clear anything up just
let me know.

Steve Kamego,
Calibration Specialty Inc.

One thing I always recommmend is that one read the Circuit description in
the service manual and follow it on the schematics,to learn fully how the
scope works.


Disclaimer;its been 6 years since I worked on any 2400 scopes,and I no
longer have any manuals to refer to,so I work from my sometimes faulty
memory.

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net

 

[Jim Adney]

On Wed, 23 Feb 2005 18:11:19 -0500 "Charles Schuler"
<charleschuler@comcast.net> wrote:

longer bypass the heater), a pressure gauge is missing its cover and no
longer works, the cover of the heater is bulged out on the front as it was
improperly reinstalled, and the auto function of the heater no longer works
(no doubt a re-wiring error).

It was an experience like this which lead me first to start working on
my own car, then my own electronics, then the occasional repair for
friends. What it all boils down to is that no one cares as much about
your <insert product name here> as you do.

The unfortunate part is that those of us who care about quality in our
repairs will do them ourselves, leaving the customer majority
dominated by those who don't notice or don't care and the service
personnel dominated by the same attitude.

I'm afraid it's a downward spiral with no visible way out.

-
-----------------------------------------------
Jim Adney jadney@vwtype3.org
Madison, WI 53711 USA
-----------------------------------------------

 

Well, I'm the guy that needs to fix it, so i turned to myself, and
switched out the board from a 2900-5201-7100, and swapped ICs out.
Everything worked fine after that. Thanks anyways.

 

[Jerry G.]

If you are going to do that, be prepared for a high operating cost in
relation to the actual work you will get. Even though there are a lot of
fanatics for tube equipment, this is also dying off. We looked very
carefully in to that, and found that it may not pay so well.

The best type of service to get in to is for industrial types of clients.
Support and sales of industrial instrumentation for laboratory applications
is the most viable today. Each sale is expensive, and a small mark-up on
these items will generate a descent income. After the sales, there is the
support part, which you can charge for the services. You will need however,
a source of financing from your bank to put out the big dollars in advance
before you get paid. Most of the corporations will pay only after 30 or 60
days, depending on their policy.

--

Jerry G.
======


"NSM" <nowrite@to.me> wrote in message news:SL5Td.349$TB.12@edtnps84...

"Paul Hirose" <iszintjv55@earINVALIDthlink.net> wrote in message
news:421CD29E.693A4266@earINVALIDthlink.net...

Spindler says there used to be four other shops like his in the area.
They're gone.

I sometimes idly think of starting up a shop repairing tube audio equipment
only. Those owners are probably ready to pay for the service.

N

 

[Jerry G.]

When the batteries get old, they do not charge properly. The APC supply
checks the battery performance before allowing itself to operate. Putting in
new batteries should fix them.

We change our batteries every 3 years, to have a guaranteed performance from
our UPS's. This is about the expected lifespan of UPS batteries. Sometimes I
have seen them go longer, but not reliably.

--

Jerry G.
======


<ganjatoker@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1109181863.060820.47810@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups.com...
I have about 10 APCs on site here, and over the years it seems as
though their general quality has gone down. Here is a fairly new
Back-UPS ES 500 (just out of warranty though), which was working
perfectly.. I decided to move it to another location and when I set it
up and turned it on - no power coming from the Battery Backup ports! (3
are surge protected, 3 surge protection + battery backup)... So, I took
the battery out, checked for loose connections, verified the battery
had a charge.. etc, plugged it back in and turned it on.. didn't work!
Looked into the unit a bit more, finally turned it on and it worked,
although I didn't really change anything! Amazing! Turned it off and
back on, doesn't work... So I figure the switch must be broken. Anyway,
if I turn it on and off, it manages to turn on about 20% of the time. I
turn it on when it's not plugged into the wall, and draw some current
off of it, powering a light bulb for a few minutes. Recharge it and it
works fine. So this looks to be a broken power switch to me..

Anyone have similar problems with such products? Or have an idea on how
I can fix this? Possibly a new power switch would work, but I'm pretty
new to this stuff so I thought I'd ask here first. Doesn't seem like
too difficult of a job though. I notice that the power button in their
newer units is a bit different, so possibly they noticed this problem.

Thanks!

 

[Shoreline Electronics]

That model number does not exist on the Panasonic site OR on a google
search.

In any case.........look at a typical pinout of this IC
http://www.alldatasheet.com/datasheet-pdf/view/SANYO/LA7837.html

Do you an input pulse on Pin 2...etc

I would change the chip first before getting all involved.

--
==========================
Jeff Stielau
Shoreline Electronics Repair
344 East Main Street
Clinton,CT 06413
860-399-1861
860-664-3535 (fax)
jstielau@snet.net
========================

"Steve W. Neas" <sneas@ot.com> wrote in message
news:4q-dnTXJCpKX14jfRVn-2w@telcove.net...

I have a TV with no vertical deflection, just the horizontal line
across the center.
It is a Panasonic PV-27D52, chassis KM-D2702, from 2002.

I checked the supply voltages to the vertical deflection chip
(LA7837).
Vcc (pin 1) was 23V (should be 12), and the pump-up supply voltage
(pin 8) was 28.4V (should be 24).
I removed the chip, and Vcc went to 11.8, and the pump-up V went to
29.4.

The pump-up V is derived from the flyback. The datasheet says it is a
nominal 24V, with 27V max. So I assume 29 is too high, and I
shouldn't just replace the chip without locating some other problem
first.

I have been checking all the diodes, caps, and resistors in the area
(with a DMM and with a simple ESR meter). I haven't found any that
read bad. I replaced a few borderline caps and one of the diodes.
Nothing I have done has any effect on the two voltages.

Any suggestions on where to look more specifically?

Thanks for any suggestions,
-Steve
sneas@ot.com

 

[Jerry G.]

The entire yoke assembly would have to be rotated in this set. The problem
is that the convergence and purity set-ups may be effected. This type of
setup can be difficult for the non experienced. The convergence and purity
alignment is performed using the ring magnets behind the yoke on the neck of
the tube. A grating pattern generator is used as a reference for the
convergence setup.

You may be best off to call a service man to do this type of setup for you.

--

Jerry G.
======


"Richard Wagoner" <rwagoner@cox.net> wrote in message
news:i8rSd.109312$mt.65826@fed1read03...
Hi, everyone.

I own a Zenith SG5745H 27" console, which uses module numbers 9-754 and
9-959. I bought it in March, 1991. Last year I replaced the 9-959 module
due to a bad (no) sound problem, and the set is better than new ... the
new module is a revised module, so the TV doesn't mute with bright
screen flashes as it did when new!

Anyway, the TV spent the last 12 years or so with the back of the
picture tube pointing East. I moved in September, and set is in a
location that has the back of the tube pointing North. The picture is
now tilted (rotated) so that the right side of the picture is a bit
lower than the left.

At first I thought the set was damaged in the move, but I read some
things and found that orientation of the set compared with the earth's
magnetic poles does indeed effect the picture. Sure enough, when I turn
the TV so that the back of the tube is pointed East, the picture is
perfectly level again.

My question, then, is: is there a way to change the rotation easily
(such as through the service menu)? I can get to the service menu, but I
don't want to experiment, and most settings don't seem be connected with
rotation.

The available setting on the service menu are:

HPOS (for moving the on screen menus horizontally)
SP (no idea)
V 1-28 (no idea)
ENVIRONMENT (no idea)
STORE CUST (storing changes as defaults)

pressing menu again brings up:

BRIGHT (bright range as I recall)
CHANNEL (no idea)
50 CYCLE (I assume if the set is operated off of a 50-cycle circuit)
VOLUME (Max volume)
VFORCED (no idea)

Are ANY of these related to rotation; if not can anyone explain what
they are just for my own information?

If the menus or settings on the circuit boards will not re-orient the
picture counter clockwise, will this fix if I let the set sit in the
same position for the next 12 years???

Also, are ther any settings that can be made so that the TV can be used
with those cheap video games? When you use the little Pac Man game from
Radio Shack, the vertical hold doesn't seem to hold so the picture does
this strange jump. (it did this with the on screen menus of an old RCA
VCR as well).

Thanks for any help. This newsgroup was very helpful in the last year as
well.

Sincerely,

Richard Wagoner

 

[Doug]

Newspapers are eager to report the demise of service shops. "Don't
repair, replace!" is the mantra of the retailers who spend the big
bucks on ads. We've had some of that on the local level, where the
papers interviewed only shop owners who were discouraged or closing.
They never came to talk to any of the local shops who are doing well.
If we want the public to know that we're here for them, we have to
advertise. Not in the paper, though.

 

[vedran]

You can find it at www.rtv-horvat-dj.hr/apl/index.htm

regards
Vedran


--
vedran

 

[vedran]

You can find service manual at www.rtv-horvat-dj.hr/apl/index.htm

Regards
Vedran


--
vedran