Toshiba TV29C90 problem; Image fades to black...

[sofie]

NSM:
Well..... I certainly would like to hear the answer to "Which end of the
resistor is the plus end?" ?
--
Best Regards,
Daniel Sofie
Electronics Supply & Repair
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -



"NSM" <nowrite@to.me> wrote in message
news:_IpVd.34390$hN1.22494@clgrps13...

"Doug" <rarpa50@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1109775153.855867.101990@g14g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
I think that Radio Shack doesn't want salespeople with a lot of product
knowledge or interest. They might spend too much time talking to
someone and blow a sale.

My manager said the same thing. If they can answer "Which end of the
resistor is the plus end?" they can't sell.

N

 

[sofie]

The NTE116 is a generic replacement Silicon Diode rated at 1A @ 600V
--
Best Regards,
Daniel Sofie
Electronics Supply & Repair
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -



"James" <rotoquad@***NOSPAMTHANKS***earthlink.net> wrote in message
news:BmoVd.4$nb1.0@tattler.gsu.edu...

Forgive me, I am still learning. What is a NTE116, and how would I place
it
"across the meter line"

Might need to talk to me like I am 2...

Thanks, James

egotripno1@nowhere.com> wrote in message
news:0xlVd.3979$wy3.2510@newsread3.news.atl.earthlink.net...
Make sure you have an NTE116 across the meter line, the feed back there
freaks out the whole board. thats the same powersupply the used in
dosens
of
different machine, it shouldn't be that hard to find one if you need a
backup. Not much help, I always replaced them with a Peter Chow
switching
powersupply, but that would Kill your restoration.

 

[NSM]

"sofie" <sofie@olypen.com> wrote in message
news:112chjjibetg6ff@corp.supernews.com...

NSM:
Well..... I certainly would like to hear the answer to "Which end of the
resistor is the plus end?" ?

Wouldn't we all?

N

 

[NSM]

"Henry Kolesnik" <kolesnik@sbcglobal.net> wrote in message
news:merVd.60310$iC4.40686@newssvr30.news.prodigy.com...

This message was previously posted on alt.auto.mercedes,
sci.electronics.components, sci.electronics.repair

The glow plug relay on my diesel Mercedes, an 83 300SD has two sets of
parallel contacts but only uses one because the other has a gap of about
0.035" when the first set closes. I thought this was due to improper
alignment and I bent the other arm so that both would make contact. The
other day I found another relay and noticed that it had one set of
contacts
spaced so they didn't close. Are there any experts out there that can
tell
why they do this? My guess is that the open set is a spare for when the
first set wears too much. But that doesn't make sense because two sets
working in parallel wouldn't wear as fast. Also would like to know if
anyone has reversed engineered the circuit as it has an IC and a couple
transistors. The circuit acts as monitor to make sure glow plug no. one
is
drawing current and then turns a dash light indicating that the plugs are
heating and when it goes out in a few seconds it OK to hit the starter.

FWIW, only one set looks like full current contacts. IMO, it may be a relay
used for other purposes and they don't want to run current through the light
duty points.

N

 

[Henry Kolesnik]

No other use than supplying power to the glow plugs, turning a dash lamp on
and off, that's it.

--

73
Hank WD5JFR
"NSM" <nowrite@to.me> wrote in message
news:5bsVd.35599$ab2.22727@edtnps89...

"Henry Kolesnik" <kolesnik@sbcglobal.net> wrote in message
news:merVd.60310$iC4.40686@newssvr30.news.prodigy.com...
This message was previously posted on alt.auto.mercedes,
sci.electronics.components, sci.electronics.repair

The glow plug relay on my diesel Mercedes, an 83 300SD has two sets of
parallel contacts but only uses one because the other has a gap of about
0.035" when the first set closes. I thought this was due to improper
alignment and I bent the other arm so that both would make contact. The
other day I found another relay and noticed that it had one set of
contacts
spaced so they didn't close. Are there any experts out there that can
tell
why they do this? My guess is that the open set is a spare for when the
first set wears too much. But that doesn't make sense because two sets
working in parallel wouldn't wear as fast. Also would like to know if
anyone has reversed engineered the circuit as it has an IC and a couple
transistors. The circuit acts as monitor to make sure glow plug no. one
is
drawing current and then turns a dash light indicating that the plugs are
heating and when it goes out in a few seconds it OK to hit the starter.

FWIW, only one set looks like full current contacts. IMO, it may be a
relay
used for other purposes and they don't want to run current through the
light
duty points.

N

 

[Henry Kolesnik]

There's no other purpose, dash lamp and glow plugs.

--

73
Hank WD5JFR
"NSM" <nowrite@to.me> wrote in message
news:5bsVd.35599$ab2.22727@edtnps89...

"Henry Kolesnik" <kolesnik@sbcglobal.net> wrote in message
news:merVd.60310$iC4.40686@newssvr30.news.prodigy.com...
This message was previously posted on alt.auto.mercedes,
sci.electronics.components, sci.electronics.repair

The glow plug relay on my diesel Mercedes, an 83 300SD has two sets of
parallel contacts but only uses one because the other has a gap of about
0.035" when the first set closes. I thought this was due to improper
alignment and I bent the other arm so that both would make contact. The
other day I found another relay and noticed that it had one set of
contacts
spaced so they didn't close. Are there any experts out there that can
tell
why they do this? My guess is that the open set is a spare for when the
first set wears too much. But that doesn't make sense because two sets
working in parallel wouldn't wear as fast. Also would like to know if
anyone has reversed engineered the circuit as it has an IC and a couple
transistors. The circuit acts as monitor to make sure glow plug no. one
is
drawing current and then turns a dash light indicating that the plugs are
heating and when it goes out in a few seconds it OK to hit the starter.

FWIW, only one set looks like full current contacts. IMO, it may be a
relay
used for other purposes and they don't want to run current through the
light
duty points.

N

 

[NSM]

"Henry Kolesnik" <kolesnik@sbcglobal.net> wrote in message
news:VPsVd.60331$iC4.57961@newssvr30.news.prodigy.com...

No other use than supplying power to the glow plugs, turning a dash lamp
on
and off, that's it.

This is my best guess.
N

 

[Leonard Caillouet]

I would think that a good salesman would be able to sell someone asking that
question just about anything. Even a plasma refill.

Leonard

"sofie" <sofie@olypen.com> wrote in message
news:112chjjibetg6ff@corp.supernews.com...

NSM:
Well..... I certainly would like to hear the answer to "Which end of the
resistor is the plus end?" ?
--
Best Regards,
Daniel Sofie
Electronics Supply & Repair
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -



"NSM" <nowrite@to.me> wrote in message
news:_IpVd.34390$hN1.22494@clgrps13...

"Doug" <rarpa50@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1109775153.855867.101990@g14g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
I think that Radio Shack doesn't want salespeople with a lot of
product
knowledge or interest. They might spend too much time talking to
someone and blow a sale.

My manager said the same thing. If they can answer "Which end of the
resistor is the plus end?" they can't sell.

N

 

[Rono]

For 600 mhz approx. units, I used a Yaesu FRG-4900
Communications receiver! Rono.

 

[trippingtoo8track]

HAHAHAHA !!! So much for the killfile I'm supposed to be in- take
notice everyone, DUMB FUCKER DoucheBob is already answering my posts
after only 1 day.

DOUCHEBOB THE DUMB FUCKER," EEE-AW, EE-AW", that's right DoucheBob,
squeal like the dumb donkey ass you are.

 

[Kim Sleep]

Ok...so lets get this one straight....you accepted someone's Theremin to
repair...with absolutely no idea how to repair it?. After your done
thoroughly killing it to the point of no return, send it off to me.

--
Kim..."A Man Of True Frankenstinean Proportions"
"Colin Swift" <nospamciswift@lineone.net> wrote in message
news:g5DUd.2026$Ho6.1699@newsfe3-gui.ntli.net...

Hi,

I've been given a wavefront travel case Theremin to repair.... seems the
power supply is dead, it has a 3 pin DIN connector alas I am not 100% sure
as to what the voltages should be on these pins? Is there anyone out there
who knows? I tried e-mailing the company however haven't received a reply.

So far the voltages measured on the pins on the din connector are -12, 0
and -0.71V - I guess the latter pin should be +12v. The power supply that
came with the unit is an adapted computer psu with output voltages of
+/-12v
and +5v - but only 3 outputs are used. Looking at the resistor to the 'on'
LED (220 ohms) I am now 90% sure that there should be +12V and not +5V on
this line. I just want to be 100% sure if possible. The transformer is one
of those impossible to open things (sealed - cant see any screws) and as
its
not mine, I'm not overly keen to take a hacksaw to it.

Anyway, hope someone out there knows, tho I guess its a long shot so
thanks in advance for your help.

Colin

 

[James]

How would I place it accross the line? Just inline on the hot test lead?

"sofie" <sofie@olypen.com> wrote in message
news:112chv9mrpfhmb6@corp.supernews.com...

The NTE116 is a generic replacement Silicon Diode rated at 1A @ 600V
--
Best Regards,
Daniel Sofie
Electronics Supply & Repair
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -



"James" <rotoquad@***NOSPAMTHANKS***earthlink.net> wrote in message
news:BmoVd.4$nb1.0@tattler.gsu.edu...
Forgive me, I am still learning. What is a NTE116, and how would I
place
it
"across the meter line"

Might need to talk to me like I am 2...

Thanks, James

egotripno1@nowhere.com> wrote in message
news:0xlVd.3979$wy3.2510@newsread3.news.atl.earthlink.net...
Make sure you have an NTE116 across the meter line, the feed back
there
freaks out the whole board. thats the same powersupply the used in
dosens
of
different machine, it shouldn't be that hard to find one if you need a
backup. Not much help, I always replaced them with a Peter Chow
switching
powersupply, but that would Kill your restoration.

 

Unfortunately, I don't have a receiver that covers 300MHz.
Essentially, that's what my oscillator+mixer+amp setup would be -
an ad-hoc receiver.

I just had a couple new ideas: Wonder where my old grid dip
meter got off to? Think it's in the garage. Would it be accurate
enough? Probably not....

Might be the excuse I've been looking for to buy an old HP
spectrum analyzer .

I just traced the thing's circuit. I think I've identified a node
that
can be grounded to the battery to make the thing emit continuous
wave RF. Then just belly it up to the frequency counter....

 

[NSM]

<jerry@tr2.com> wrote in message
news:1109821638.997831.284610@l41g2000cwc.googlegroups.com...

The problem is: how to measure it? You can't just stick a counter
on it, because it's pulsed. I'm thinking to use an RF oscillator and
a mixer going to an audio amp - when the oscillator is close enough to
the remote, I'll hear it heterodyne. I don't think it needs to be
super accurate. Or maybe a scope with an XY input for lissajous
figures?

Use a receiver connected to a scope? How much is an extra gate receiver?
I've seen items like this offered in "Ciarcia's Circuit Cellar".

N

 

[Travis Jordan]

Neil wrote:

For anyone who has burned CD's for Music, or Data, I've found VERBATIM

Try Ritek / Ridata CD-R's. They work great.
http://www.newegg.com/app/searchProductResult.asp?Submit=Go&Range=1&InnerManu=2015&DEPA=0&bop=and&description=ritek&InnerCata=71

 

So CD-R quality can be judged by the seek time? Interesting. I just
got a pile of no-name Chinese disks - $15 for 100. We'll see how they
do.....

- Jerry

 

[bannio]

Justin: can you help me with this problem I am having? I need to know
the order of the red anode cable on the three tubes.


Thanks.

Bannio

Justin Wrote:

Hi, when I move the cables around at the flyback the screen flickers
and Horizontal lines that are present change wores and better.
Now, after fiddling around and trying to repair what I thought was a
bad connection on one end, it is even worse. I think they are breaking
down as the thing is 11 years old. I have changed every cap on the 2
main boards (yes, every single electrolytic capacitor) and this is all
that keeps me from being done. Also, when I move the cables around,
there
is a high-pitched noise coming from the flyback and some clicking
which
I can stop with more cable tweaks.

How does one deal with this?
Make new cables?
Buy them pre-built?

Thanks for your time, Justin.

--
bannio

 

[tekman]

Are you shure it is not a problem of setting up and using the scope?
May be a look in the operating manual might help to set things right.

You can download one for free from www.teknetelectronics.com


hth,
Andreas

 

[tekman]

steve wrote:
...snippety..

On a different note, the other 2465 we have had a problem with the
display. After warming up for probably half an hour, some dots
appear
on the screen. They are on vertical graticule lines, and turning the
trace and readout intenities down doesn't change them. I've freeze
sprayed all I.C.'s with no effect. We aren't as concerned with this
problem, because the all time readings on this scope are dead on, and
we just need a NIST traceable reference so we can keep calibrating.

Thanks for any help you can give, and if I can clear anything up just
let me know.

Steve Kamego,
Calibration Specialty Inc.

Hi Steve, yes, this dot problem I have had too. I had to readjust the
grid bias and all other settings in the HV section.

After that, the problem disappeared: no more dots, etc disturbance.

I have never traced the problem totally down. Funny: All other voltages
in the LV supply, ripple, etc. show normal values.

So, maybe you give a try on your 2465 and let us know in the newsgroup
if it helped you too.

hth,
Andreas

 

[b]

Jerry G. wrote:

I've never had a problem with the Verbatim. I found them to be the
best in
my CD players for reliability. When burning disks to be played in CD
players, using a slow burn is better for reliability.

Agree totally with Jerry. They have been the only brand I've used over
the last 3 or so years. Both the silvery and the white label area type.
Never had any problem, data or audio.
Maybe the OP simply had bad luck or a bad batch...
regards, Ben