Toshiba TV29C90 problem; Image fades to black...

[Phil Allison]

tabb...@gmail.com wrote:

-------------------------------

** Your posts on SED a few year back re fake Motorola power
BJTs were bizarre.


Component procurement in what I do is however utterly different to
how probably all of you get parts,


** What the hell does *that* mean ???

Thornton is definitely "covering up" here.

If Google has it, I will repost what NT said on SED.



I see you're being more idiot than I expected.

** Yet again you have posted something completely mysterious about purchasing components. Doing that does not make you sound one bit clever, rather it does the exact opposite.

Makes YOU look a real idiot.


FYI:

Luckily for you, Google does not seem to have the previous SED thread available.



..... Phil

 

[rickman]

Phil Allison wrote on 6/30/2017 11:00 PM:

tabb...@gmail.com wrote:

-------------------------------




** Your posts on SED a few year back re fake Motorola power
BJTs were bizarre.


Component procurement in what I do is however utterly different to
how probably all of you get parts,


** What the hell does *that* mean ???

Thornton is definitely "covering up" here.

If Google has it, I will repost what NT said on SED.



I see you're being more idiot than I expected.



** Yet again you have posted something completely mysterious about purchasing components. Doing that does not make you sound one bit clever, rather it does the exact opposite.

Makes YOU look a real idiot.

When it comes to looking like a complete idiot, Phil knows what he is
talking about.

--

Rick C

 

[Phil Allison]

Prickman the Netstalker wrote:

------------------------------



** When it comes to looking a complete idiot, the Prickman is an expert.

It's his one and only talent.

He practices it regularly too.



..... Phil

 

[Ian Field]

<pfjw@aol.com> wrote in message
news:1d4be5ce-584f-4a77-9d7a-029a660aa80d@googlegroups.com...

On Friday, June 30, 2017 at 2:00:04 PM UTC-4, Ian Field wrote:

Some LED bulbs are switch mode, usually flyback AFAICT. They are pretty
much
the same as CFLs on a triac dimmer.

http://creebulb.com/bulbfinder

We use Cree lamps where we need dimming, and in general if replacements.
We still have some few legacy LED lamps in place (stuff that came-with
other stuff), but we do not intend to dim those.

NOTE: some cheap LED lamps are very noisy in the RF range. VERY noisy,
approaching that of an unshielded ignition transformer (oil burner).

Most of the cheap LED bulbs I've cracked open were wattless dropper - they
absorb a small amount of mains borne crap.

 

[Ian Field]

"John-Del" <ohger1s@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:044164d5-0fd2-4089-acd0-5e4e838da734@googlegroups.com...

On Friday, June 30, 2017 at 11:38:41 AM UTC-4, tabb...@gmail.com wrote:
On Thursday, 29 June 2017 15:01:15 UTC+1, John-Del wrote:
On Wednesday, June 28, 2017 at 11:24:19 PM UTC-4, Phil Allison wrote:
John-Delusional Fuckwit wrote:

One more thing: if you look at a halogen lamp crosseyed the
filament will
fail from the shock of your stare.. The filaments are not
supported as
they are in a standard incandescent lamp so they must not be
subject to
shock or vibration.



** See pics of 150W halogen tube lamps:

http://www.destinationlighting.com/images/products_zoom/549/13549~zoom.jpg


http://www.homedepot.com/catalog/productImages/1000/b7/b7e4d552-8a07-4441-a54c-0c250efeef67_1000.jpg

https://images.musicstore.de/images/1600/omnilux-halogen-lamp-bulb-g-6-35-150-watts-24-volts_1_LIG0000456-000.jpg

How about a 1000W one:

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/6174-2HVwIL._SL1500_.jpg



http://www.gelighting.com/LightingWeb/apac/images/GE-Avoiding-Hot-Shock-Halogen-HIR_tcm281-33642.pdf




Phallus'n emanated the following from his bunghole:


They are real pics published by folk who make and sell the lamps.


General Electric is one of the largest manufacturers of all kinds of
lighting on the planet. Strangely, most folks who are not confined to
an insane asylum would believe technical information from General
Electric over some two-bit self aggrandized "technician" such as
yourself.

This is what General Electric says about the subject:

"Unlike incandescent rough service or vibration service lamps, Halogen
and HIR lamps are not equipped with filament supports because they
would result in the de-rating of the life and lumens, and thusly defeat
the purpose of providing extremely long life, energy savings and high
lumen output. These features differentiate Halogen and HIR lamps from
similar incandescent counterparts. However, these high performance
lamps require more consideration and education when installing and
aiming them."

Anyone who ever tried to use halogen lamps in portable clamp lights
know they will be lucky to survive one minor bump, whereas even
conventional incandescent lamps will survive several, and rough service
incandescent lamps are extraordinarily tough.

GE says your wrong Phil.

Phil certainly has his problems but he's right on this one.


NT

Okay, that's two that think they're right and General Electric is wrong.
Not sure if that constitutes a consensus or not...

Hehehe......

AFAIK: GE are still making jet engines - I think it was probably
Westinghouse that had to give it up as a bad job.

 

[Ian Field]

<pfjw@aol.com> wrote in message
news:64fc4040-404f-404b-b014-e725facfafc6@googlegroups.com...

When dealing with closely held beliefs, revealed religion and
pronouncements from burning bushes, only war will determine what is
'truth' - and only insofar as the winner writes the history books.

Keep in mind the 'simple truth' of Evolution:

In the United States:

19% believe in Evolution.
34% believe in pure creationism.
25% believe in 'directed evolution'.
The rest have no opinion.

And the US is by no means any different than the rest of the world in its
beliefs.

In the late 30s - the only Americans that GAF about the European war; wanted
to join the Axis.

The Jap attack on pearl just after Japan became the 3rd member of the Axis
is the only thing that changed their mind.

Just before that; America was doing military excercises in preparation for
an attack on parts of the British Empire.

 

[Ian Field]

<tabbypurr@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:57c0918e-e2e0-496a-9645-65b4d6745a86@googlegroups.com...

On Thursday, 29 June 2017 12:51:44 UTC+1, Phil Allison wrote:
tabby wrote:

Sometimes you're just bizarre.

** Mostly I make more good sense that you care or are able to
acknowledge.


In case you actually are that confused, which is hard to believe,
I have never been involved in producing or selling fake transistors
or any other fake parts.

** Good, I believe you.

Then explain what made you think it was clever to defend those who did ?

It was done over several posts and you were smug as hell about it.

There is nothing the *iniest bit funny* about Asian and US based
criminals ripping off keen electronics hobbyists and honest repair
industry folk like me.

Over to you...........


.... Phil

Sometimes I'm not sure which planet you're from.

There's ongoing debate as to whether it even has a
sky...........................

 

[Ian Field]

<tabbypurr@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:57c0918e-e2e0-496a-9645-65b4d6745a86@googlegroups.com...

On Thursday, 29 June 2017 12:51:44 UTC+1, Phil Allison wrote:
tabby wrote:

Sometimes you're just bizarre.

** Mostly I make more good sense that you care or are able to
acknowledge.


In case you actually are that confused, which is hard to believe,
I have never been involved in producing or selling fake transistors
or any other fake parts.

** Good, I believe you.

Then explain what made you think it was clever to defend those who did ?

It was done over several posts and you were smug as hell about it.

There is nothing the *iniest bit funny* about Asian and US based
criminals ripping off keen electronics hobbyists and honest repair
industry folk like me.

Over to you...........


.... Phil

Sometimes I'm not sure which planet you're from. I do not encourage, agree
with or assist criminals who fake parts or deal in fake parts. Never have.

Component procurement in what I do is however utterly different to how
probably all of you get parts, and I suspect a large misunderstanding to
have arisen from that.

Counterfeiting is less jail time than drug running - electronic component
isn't the only thing affected.

Pharmaceuticals, cosmetics, fashion, electronics - I can't think of anything
that isn't.

A few years back; a reputable supplier got lumbered with hundreds of
thousands of state of the art CPUs that turned out to be all package and no
silicon.

 

On Saturday, 1 July 2017 04:00:50 UTC+1, Phil Allison wrote:

tabby wrote:

** Your posts on SED a few year back re fake Motorola power
BJTs were bizarre.


Component procurement in what I do is however utterly different to
how probably all of you get parts,


** What the hell does *that* mean ???

Thornton is definitely "covering up" here.

If Google has it, I will repost what NT said on SED.



I see you're being more idiot than I expected.



** Yet again you have posted something completely mysterious about purchasing components. Doing that does not make you sound one bit clever, rather it does the exact opposite.

Makes YOU look a real idiot.

Boy you love to spout on matters you truly know jack about.
Jim is right about you, I won't waste time explaining what I said.

FYI:

Luckily for you, Google does not seem to have the previous SED thread available.

Lol. My best guess is you made some bonkers accusations and I didn't waste any time discussing them with you. You are, some of the time, truly a loony.. This notion of yours that I'm some master criminal is one more piece of your lunacy. And I have zero interest in what your reply is. Good bye, rejoin the nutjob filter. I really should leave you there.


NT

 

I still have this camera.. i'll take everyones tips, thanks all...


On Saturday, August 28, 1999 at 3:00:00 AM UTC-4, Fez wrote:

I have this a few times it is caused by the lock/stanby switch not working
correctly ( the one near the thumb push) this switch will only work when in
camera mode and does not affect the camera in playback , it is not pushed
across far enough or the micro switch has broken leaving it in the lock
position
Scott Tallaksen wrote in message <37C708E2.8A20EDB9@gte.net>...
Hi, I have a Sony video camera recorder, and the tapes in it will play
the 8mm tapes, but when switching to the video operation side (on
switch) Its just dead. Checked all the boards for bad components as
best I could, and Fuses are fine. Switches all look good too. Are
there Common problems that These units have? Id really appreciate it if
someone could give me a lead or two. Thanks.....Scott
email is:
tallaks@gte.net

 

[Phil Allison]

tabb...@gmail.com wrote:

Phil Allison wrote:


** Your posts on SED a few year back re fake Motorola power
BJTs were bizarre.


Component procurement in what I do is however utterly different to
how probably all of you get parts,


** What the hell does *that* mean ???

Thornton is definitely "covering up" here.

If Google has it, I will repost what NT said on SED.



I see you're being more idiot than I expected.



** Yet again you have posted something completely mysterious about purchasing components. Doing that does not make you sound one bit clever, rather it does the exact opposite.

Makes YOU look a real idiot.


Boy you love to spout on matters you truly know jack about.

** YOU need to explain your self referencing posts cos they make no sense.

Jim is right about you,

** You should explain that remark too.

I won't waste time explaining what I said.

** That is a blatant lie.

You are being mysterious and deceitful.

Luckily for you, Google does not seem to have the previous SED
thread available.

Lol. My best guess is you made some bonkers accusations

** Your " best guess" is completely wrong.


The gist of your posts on SED was not to fuss over counterfeit Motorola power transistors - lots of products are cloned and faked by others and sold as genuine. Get used to it was the message.

I complained that that was a totally crazy messageonly someone INVOLVERD in the criminal trade would put forward in defence of what they were doing.

You then posted similar paranoid crapology to that appearing below:

--------------------------------------------------------------

and I didn't waste any time discussing them with you. You are, some of the time, truly a loony. This notion of yours that I'm some master criminal is one more piece of your lunacy. And I have zero interest in what your reply is. Good bye, rejoin the nutjob filter. I really should leave you there.

---------------------------------------------------------------


Crazy stuff, completely nuts.



..... Phil

 

[Phil Allison]

Ian Field wrote:

-----------------------------------

Counterfeiting is less jail time than drug running - electronic component
isn't the only thing affected.

Pharmaceuticals, cosmetics, fashion, electronics - I can't think of anything
that isn't.

A few years back; a reputable supplier got lumbered with hundreds of
thousands of state of the art CPUs that turned out to be all package and no
silicon.

----------------------------------------------

** My colleague Rod Elliot ( of ESP ) and I spent considerable time investigating numerous fake transistors that were being sold over the counter here in Australia. Initially it was Motorola MJ15003s & MJ15004s used in amplifier kits and sold folk doing repairs.

I first saw examples back in 1980 from "Dick Smith Electronics" - who sold thousands of counterfeits that way - some to me. And again in 2000, purchased from a different source. The internet was put to good use by me and a friend to embarrass the company out of continuing.

DSE is no longer in business and so too are a couple of others that imported and sold fakes - however they are still on open sale here and all over eBay.

This article was prepared from information gleaned by myself and Rod.

http://sound.whsites.net/fake/counterfeit-p1.htm

http://sound.whsites.net/counterfeit.htm

For a long time now, it has not been safe to buy power BJTs from ANY small supplier or on line dealer - cos their stock consists MOSTLY of fakes.



...... Phil

 

[Ian Field]

"Phil Allison" <pallison49@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1278b8c5-45ee-4442-ada9-d7ebfea2d8af@googlegroups.com...

Ian Field wrote:

-----------------------------------



Counterfeiting is less jail time than drug running - electronic component
isn't the only thing affected.

Pharmaceuticals, cosmetics, fashion, electronics - I can't think of
anything
that isn't.

A few years back; a reputable supplier got lumbered with hundreds of
thousands of state of the art CPUs that turned out to be all package and
no
silicon.

----------------------------------------------


** My colleague Rod Elliot ( of ESP ) and I spent considerable time
investigating numerous fake transistors that were being sold over the
counter here in Australia. Initially it was Motorola MJ15003s & MJ15004s
used in amplifier kits and sold folk doing repairs.

I first saw examples back in 1980 from "Dick Smith Electronics" - who sold
thousands of counterfeits that way - some to me. And again in 2000,
purchased from a different source. The internet was put to good use by me
and a friend to embarrass the company out of continuing.

DSE is no longer in business and so too are a couple of others that
imported and sold fakes - however they are still on open sale here and all
over eBay.

This article was prepared from information gleaned by myself and Rod.

http://sound.whsites.net/fake/counterfeit-p1.htm

http://sound.whsites.net/counterfeit.htm

For a long time now, it has not been safe to buy power BJTs from ANY small
supplier or on line dealer - cos their stock consists MOSTLY of fakes.

Big trusted suppliers get stung too.

There are very few dodgy little pharmaceutical distributors and the big boys
get hit just as hard. If they can't keep it clean - component suppliers
never will.

 

[Phil Allison]

Ian Field wrote:

-----------------------

Counterfeiting is less jail time than drug running - electronic component
isn't the only thing affected.

Pharmaceuticals, cosmetics, fashion, electronics - I can't think of
anything
that isn't.

A few years back; a reputable supplier got lumbered with hundreds of
thousands of state of the art CPUs that turned out to be all package and
no
silicon.

----------------------------------------------


** My colleague Rod Elliot ( of ESP ) and I spent considerable time
investigating numerous fake transistors that were being sold over the
counter here in Australia. Initially it was Motorola MJ15003s & MJ15004s
used in amplifier kits and sold folk doing repairs.

I first saw examples back in 1980 from "Dick Smith Electronics" - who sold
thousands of counterfeits that way - some to me. And again in 2000,
purchased from a different source. The internet was put to good use by me
and a friend to embarrass the company out of continuing.

DSE is no longer in business and so too are a couple of others that
imported and sold fakes - however they are still on open sale here and all
over eBay.

This article was prepared from information gleaned by myself and Rod.

http://sound.whsites.net/fake/counterfeit-p1.htm

http://sound.whsites.net/counterfeit.htm

For a long time now, it has not been safe to buy power BJTs from ANY small
supplier or on line dealer - cos their stock consists MOSTLY of fakes.


Big trusted suppliers get stung too.

** Responsible companies ( like Farnell, Digikey and RS Components ) make sure that all stock is traceable back to the factories that made them.

Semiconductor makers have networks of authorised dealers in each country and advise that you must buy from one of them to be certain you are getting genuine stuff.

Businesses who's semiconductor stock is full of fakes have no idea where any of it really came from and don't give a damn.

Grey market semiconductor dealers find Ebay accommodates them happily.


..... Phil

..... Phil

 

[David Farber]

David Farber wrote:

micky wrote:
In alt.home.repair, on Thu, 10 Aug 2017 23:01:39 -0700, "David
Farber" <farberbear.unspam@aol.com> wrote:

The model number is 110.26912691. The problem is the timer control
knob just spins

Does the knob spin on the shaft or does the shaft spin but you don't
hear any clicking noises.

If you can't answer this question, pull the knob off and use pliers
to turn the shaft. Now answer the question above.

If it's the former, glue the knob on the shaft. If the latter, you
probably need a new timer.

but does not actually rotate the timer mechanism therefore there is
no
way to start the washing cycle. I am trying to help someone in a
remote location replace the timer. The main problem is that they
can't figure out how to remove the control knob. I looked at my own
Kenmore washing machine from 1998 and all you have to do is to get
access to the back of the timer, then use some needle nose pliers
and pull the crescent shaped center pin 3/8 of an inch. Then the
knob comes off very easily. I watched a few youtube videos showing
one method where you push the knob in and then turn the knob
counter-clockwise. That method doesn't seem to work. The knob spins
freely and won't unscrew. Here is a photo of the back side of the
timer.
http://webpages.charter.net/mrfixiter/images/Whirlpool/Whirlpool-timer-back.jpg

Can you tell from the photo what needs to pushed, pulled, twisted,
or turned to remove the control knob?

No. A picture of the front would be better.

Thanks for your reply.

Hi micky,

Regarding the clicking or no clicking while turning the knob, I will
ask the user. Please keep in mind the purpose of my question was to
find out the procedure to remove the knob in a manner that wouldn't
force or break anything. A new timer has already been purchased.

Thanks for your reply.

When the knob is pushed in, it spins AND SO DOES THE SHAFT without any
clicking noises. I think what has happened is whatever mechanism that
engages the shaft to the gears inside the timer is broken. Since the
mechanism's gears are not applying any locking action in the
counter-clockwise direction, the knob cannot be unscrewed. This knob is not
like the other knobs on the washer. It needs to be unscrewed. It cannot be
directly pulled off. The only solution I can think of is to put some glue
inside the back of the timer where the shaft is. Maybe it will lock the
shaft into place so the knob could be unscrewed.

--
David Farber
Los Osos, CA
Thanks for your reply.

 

[Roy Tremblay]

Rod Speed <rod.speed.aaa@gmail.com> actually wrote:

I've lost track of what name the person who was continually
comparing iOS and android systems who changes names
every month or so or even if he is still posting here.

I want to get a simple Ubiquity 2.4GHz access point to allow convenient
sharing of my wifi with my back neighbour but am rather dazzled by the
range of choices available. I just want something simple and cheap that
will do a good job over about 150' and is easy enough to attach to the
back of my house, either on the block wall where it can be a bit sheltered
or on the wooden barge board for the flat roof out in the weather.

Preferably with POE to minimise the mechanical farting around.

To Rod Speed and anyone who wants to set up a ubiquiti radio as a receiver
far from the house.

We had a half dozen spare Ubiquiti Rocket M2 radios on hand, because we
swapped them all out for Rocket M5 radios instead (for the lower noise).
<https://s26.postimg.org/86f1es2yh/radio.jpg>

So a bunch of us grabbed a few and set them up outside, a few hundred feet
from the house, pointing over the air back at the normal home SOHO routers.

At about 200 feet line of sight from the barn to the house, we got signal
strength of over minus 65 decibels, which is pretty good, and when we
tested speeds, they were asymmetric (even though all our feeds are
symmetric) at 43 Mbps down and 17 Mbps up, which is fine for what we're
doing (since we get our Internet over the air via WISP).

The key to set up the Ubiquiti radio as a receiver is "station" and
"bridge" for the two tabs, "wireless" and "network".

The configuration file has the radio set up with the following cfg file
which can be loaded into any Ubiquiti Rocket M2 (and probably other
Ubiquiti AirOS radios).

------------ cut here --------------
bridge.status=enabled
tshaper.status=disabled
gui.network.advanced.status=enabled
dhcp6c.status=disabled
resolv.nameserver.status=enabled
resolv.nameserver.2.status=disabled
resolv.nameserver.2.ip=
resolv.nameserver.1.status=disabled
resolv.nameserver.1.ip=
resolv.status=disabled
ppp.status=disabled
vlan.status=disabled
users.status=enabled
users.1.status=enabled
users.1.password=ubnt
users.1.name=ubnt
system.eirp.status=disabled
system.cfg.version=65546
sshd.status=enabled
sshd.port=22
route.1.devname=br0
route.1.status=enabled
route.1.comment=
route.1.gateway=192.168.1.1
route.1.netmask=0
route.1.ip=0.0.0.0
route.status=enabled
netmode=bridge
netconf.3.up=enabled
netconf.3.netmask=255.255.255.0
netconf.3.ip=192.168.1.20
netconf.3.hwaddr.mac=
netconf.3.hwaddr.status=disabled
netconf.3.alias.2.comment=Safety
netconf.3.alias.2.netmask=255.0.0.0
netconf.3.alias.2.ip=10.0.0.200
netconf.3.alias.2.status=enabled
netconf.3.alias.1.comment=Safety
netconf.3.alias.1.netmask=255.255.255.0
netconf.3.alias.1.ip=192.168.0.20
netconf.3.alias.1.status=enabled
netconf.3.autoip.status=enabled
netconf.3.role=mlan
netconf.3.mtu=1500
netconf.3.devname=br0
netconf.3.status=enabled
netconf.2.up=enabled
netconf.2.promisc=enabled
netconf.2.netmask=255.255.255.0
netconf.2.ip=0.0.0.0
netconf.2.allmulti=enabled
netconf.2.hwaddr.mac=
netconf.2.hwaddr.status=disabled
netconf.2.autoip.status=disabled
netconf.2.role=bridge_port
netconf.2.mtu=1500
netconf.2.devname=ath0
netconf.2.status=enabled
netconf.1.up=enabled
netconf.1.promisc=enabled
netconf.1.netmask=255.255.255.0
netconf.1.ip=0.0.0.0
netconf.1.hwaddr.mac=
netconf.1.hwaddr.status=disabled
netconf.1.autoip.status=disabled
netconf.1.role=bridge_port
netconf.1.mtu=1500
netconf.1.devname=eth0
netconf.1.status=enabled
netconf.status=enabled
httpd.status=enabled
httpd.https.status=enabled
httpd.https.port=443
ebtables.sys.vlan.status=disabled
ebtables.sys.status=enabled
ebtables.sys.eap.status=disabled
ebtables.sys.eap.1.status=enabled
ebtables.sys.eap.1.devname=ath0
ebtables.sys.arpnat.status=enabled
ebtables.sys.arpnat.1.status=enabled
ebtables.sys.arpnat.1.devname=ath0
ebtables.status=enabled
dhcpd.status=disabled
dhcpc.1.status=disabled
dhcpc.1.devname=br0
dhcpc.status=disabled
radio.status=enabled
radio.countrycode=840
radio.rate_module=atheros
radio.1.txpower=24
radio.1.subsystemid=0xe1b2
radio.1.status=enabled
radio.1.reg_obey=enabled
radio.1.pollingpri=
radio.1.pollingnoack=0
radio.1.polling=enabled
radio.1.obey=enabled
radio.1.mode=managed
radio.1.ieee_mode=11nght40
radio.1.dfs.status=enabled
radio.1.devname=ath0
radio.1.cwm.mode=1
radio.1.cwm.enable=0
radio.1.countrycode=840
radio.1.acktimeout=25
radio.1.ackdistance=600
radio.1.ack.auto=enabled
radio.1.forbiasauto=1
radio.1.rate.auto=enabled
radio.1.rate.mcs=15
radio.1.mcastrate=15
radio.1.chanbw=40
radio.1.antenna.id=6
radio.1.antenna.gain=24
radio.1.cable.loss=0
wireless.status=enabled
wireless.hideindoor.status=disabled
wireless.1.status=enabled
wireless.1.ssid=Birdfarm2Office
wireless.1.security.type=none
wireless.1.hide_ssid=disabled
wireless.1.devname=ath0
wireless.1.addmtikie=enabled
wireless.1.wds.status=disabled
wireless.1.authmode=1
wireless.1.scan_list.status=disabled
wireless.1.scan_list.channels=
wireless.1.ap=
aaa.1.status=disabled
aaa.status=disabled
wpasupplicant.device.1.status=disabled
wpasupplicant.status=disabled
bridge.1.comment=
bridge.1.fd=1
bridge.1.port.2.devname=ath0
bridge.1.port.2.status=enabled
bridge.1.port.1.devname=eth0
bridge.1.port.1.status=enabled
bridge.1.stp.status=disabled
bridge.1.devname=br0
bridge.1.status=enabled
gui.language=en_US
users.2.status=enabled
users.2.password=
users.2.name=guest
users.2.gid=100
users.2.uid=100
users.2.shell=/bin/false
resolv.host.1.status=enabled
resolv.host.1.name=Rocket M2
system.date.status=enabled
system.date.timestamp=092600002017
system.timezone=GMT+8
system.button.reset=enabled
update.check.status=enabled
system.latitude=
system.longitude=
------------ cut here --------------

 

[harry newton]

He who is Piet said on Tue, 26 Sep 2017 10:16:57 +0200:

The *material* is the strongest ever. But make it too thin,
or build the bezel such that there is uneven support, and it
can easily break.

And *that* is the whole issue.

JF Mezei & Piet bring up good on-topic points where the question is whether
Apple outright lied or not, and if they did outright lie, why they did so.

If it's true that the *material* is the "strongest ever" put on a
smarphone, then we'd have to look at two things that Apple said & meant:
a. What Apple literally said, and,
b. What Apple meant their mostly factually-clueless customers to perceive

It's hard to believe that one of the finest, if not the finest, marketing
organizations in the world would need to stoop to an outright lie to get
its customers to appreciate the product, so, the statement that they didn't
lie outright about the "material" holds credibility.

Is the "lie" explained as simply as:
a. The "material" is the strongest ever put in a smartphone, but,
b. The "implementation" is as weak as any (and even weaker than some).

Is that a rational explanation of Apple's statements as compared with fact?

 

[Roy Tremblay]

Rod Speed <rod.speed.aaa@gmail.com> actually wrote:

I've lost track of what name the person who was continually
comparing iOS and android systems who changes names
every month or so or even if he is still posting here.

I want to get a simple Ubiquity 2.4GHz access point to allow convenient
sharing of my wifi with my back neighbour but am rather dazzled by the
range of choices available. I just want something simple and cheap that
will do a good job over about 150' and is easy enough to attach to the
back of my house, either on the block wall where it can be a bit sheltered
or on the wooden barge board for the flat roof out in the weather.

Preferably with POE to minimise the mechanical farting around.

Hi Rod Speed & Jeff Liebermann,

I just set up a spare Ubiquiti Rocket M2 radio & 28dBi dish antenna in
station/bridge mode, which is what Rod Speed needs if he wants to use the
radio at his neighbor's house, to pick up the weak signal from Rod's SOHO
Wi-Fi router. We tested this configuration at about 200 feet and got
perfectly acceptable signal strength.

I also set up a Ubiquiti Rocket M5 in Access Point mode, which is what Rod
Speed is most likely to do, but this post is only about how easy it is to
set up the Ubiquiti radios in station/bridge mode to *receive* signal from
a SOHO router Wi-Fi access point.

I'm using the Ubiquiti Rocket M2 in station/bridge mode right now,
connected to a desktop PC Ethernet port and then picking up the signal from
my SOHO WiFi router, which is exactly what Rod's neighbor would be using if
Rod opts to put a receiving dish and bucket router on the neighbor's
property facing Rod's home.

Here is a photo of the radios that I'm playing with for this test.
<https://s26.postimg.org/62350hckp/00aradio.jpg>

Here is a photo of the radios set up in AP mode (where Rod Speed would
broadcast his signal to his neighbor) and set up in station/bridge mode
(where his neighbor would receive the weak signal from Rod Speed's SOHO
WiFi router).
<https://s26.postimg.org/kzbm1hpt5/00bradio.jpg>

Up until today, I was using a Mikrotik RB411/R52n-M radio to pick up the
weak signal from the SOHO WiFi router.
<https://s26.postimg.org/vanyu5hih/00cradio.jpg>

But we just got a set of spare Rocket M2 radios to play with so that's why
I tested this out for Rod Speed.
<https://s26.postimg.org/w1gozxjvt/00dradio.jpg>

For Rod Speed to test out what the neighbor would need to simply pick up
the weak signal 300 feet away from Rod Speed's SOHO Wi-Fi router, here's
all the neighbor needs to do.

1. Power up a Windows 10 PC (that's what I tested this on).
2. Connect the Ubiquiti Rocket M2 radio to the POE power "POE" port.
3. Reset the Ubiquiti radio to factory defaults (if needed).
4. Set the Windows 10 PC to a static IP address of 192.168.1.x
(where x is anything not used, and not 20).
5. Connect the POE power supply LAN port to the Windows PC Ethernet port.
6. Log into the Ubiquiti radio at http://192.168.1.20 using the
default login of "ubnt" and the password of "ubnt".
7. The radio will force you to set the country code & language and it
will force you to accept the EULA checkbox.
8. The radio will force you to change the password, where it will take
anything other than "ubnt" (e.g., "Ubnt" works just fine).
9. Go to the NETWORK tab and hit the "Select" button and select the
SSID broadcast from the SOHO Wi-Fi router & enter the type of
security and passphrase for that access point.
10. Hit "change" and "apply" and that's it. You're done!

The Windows 10 PC is now connected to the SOHO Wi-Fi router weak signal,
and the Windows 10 PC is therefore instantly on the Internet.

In practice, the user can test this out at home, and then move the radio
300 feet away from the SOHO Wi-Fi router where the radio should still work
pretty far out to connect to the weak SOHO router Wi-Fi signal.

Once the user establishes this works at 100 feet, 200 feet, 300 feet, etc.,
they can just put a router on the end of the radio, and they can wired or
wirelessly connect any device they want to that router (such as a barn
cam).

Here are screenshots of the relevant screens in the setup, but again, it's
very simple because there is only one change that is required which is to
set the radio to pick up the correct SOHO router Wi-Fi access point SSID,
security type, and passphrase.

radio_001.jpg
<https://s26.postimg.org/54wprm12h/radio_001.jpg>

radio_002.jpg
<https://s26.postimg.org/dbopj6r55/radio_002.jpg>

radio_003.jpg
<https://s26.postimg.org/d1h6zucix/radio_003.jpg>

radio_004.jpg
<https://s26.postimg.org/9j573gbmx/radio_004.jpg>

radio_005.jpg
<https://s26.postimg.org/6dkld8t0p/radio_005.jpg>

radio_006.jpg
<https://s26.postimg.org/aa2z6ckbt/radio_006.jpg>

radio_007.jpg
<https://s26.postimg.org/csoo71621/radio_007.jpg>

radio_008.jpg
<https://s26.postimg.org/brofhwp2h/radio_008.jpg>

radio_009.jpg
<https://s26.postimg.org/6uauwsn3d/radio_009.jpg>

 

[Roy Tremblay]

Roy Tremblay <rmblayrrroy@nlnet.nl> actually wrote:

I also set up a Ubiquiti Rocket M5 in Access Point mode, which is what Rod
Speed is most likely to do

Here are the screenshots of the setup to set this Ubiquiti Rocket M5 in the
mode that Rod Speed wants.

In this setup, the radio will hang off his SOHO router by cat5 cable and
POE, and then this access point will paint the next few miles with his
Internet signal such that a neighbor only a few hundred feet away should be
able to connect to this powerful access point with small devices.
https://s26.postimg.org/kzbm1hpt5/00bradio.jpg

This happens to be a 5GHz 30 decibel rocket, but the procedure is exactly
the same no matter what Ubiquiti radio Rod Speed chooses to make his access
point that paints the neighbor's home (as per the calculations from Jeff).

ap_001 Security Certificate override at 192.168.1.20 (default)
https://s26.postimg.org/xcpkferk9/ap_001.jpg

ap_002 Log in to 192.168.1.20 port 80 as ubnt/ubnt
https://s26.postimg.org/rd1tbr6rt/ap_002.jpg

ap_003 Make sure AirMAX is not enabled
https://s26.postimg.org/dkneg4g09/ap_003.jpg

ap_004 You should be in Access Point/Bridge mode
https://s26.postimg.org/pnsq3or2h/ap_004.jpg

ap_005 Choose the SSID & security & channel & width you want for the AP
https://s26.postimg.org/hwc054mx5/ap_005.jpg

ap_006 Choose any static IP address that you want for 192.168.1.whatever
https://s26.postimg.org/4gozfoefd/ap_006.jpg

ap_007 There's nothing to change on the Advanced tab
https://s26.postimg.org/69rw3zzm1/ap_007.jpg

ap_008 There's nothing to change on the Services tab
https://s26.postimg.org/zdg408npl/ap_008.jpg

ap_009 There's nothing to change on the System tab
https://s26.postimg.org/hood8mbyh/ap_009.jpg

 

[Roy Tremblay]

Roy Tremblay <rmblayrrroy@nlnet.nl> actually wrote:

This happens to be a 5GHz 30 decibel rocket, but the procedure is exactly
the same no matter what Ubiquiti radio Rod Speed chooses to make his access
point that paints the neighbor's home (as per the calculations from Jeff).

As a more easily digested top-level summary, for Rod and the others:
a. Station mode (the default)
b. Access Point mode

1. Station mode means the access point locks on to any given
SSID/passphrase, acting as a "station". For example, you can stand on the
nearest hilltop and point the radio down into the city miles below, select
the best signal strength open access point, and connect to the Internet (if
you're lucky with signal strength both ways).

2. Access Point mode means the radio acts as an access point of your
Internet to anyone (who can be miles away) who wants to connect to your
access point. You can stick the radio on a hilltop, pointing at the city
miles below, and everyone in the city can "see" your access point (if
you're lucky with signal strength both ways).

More details for setup on Ubiquiti radios such as these in my basement:
<https://s26.postimg.org/62350hckp/00aradio.jpg>

1. The Ubiquiti radios, out of the box, default to "station" mode, where
you can temporarily connect them by wire or WiFi to a mobile computing
device to log in (192.168.1.20, ubnt/ubnt) and point them at any access
point (even those that are miles away) and then lock on to either the SSID
or the MAC address. That's it.

After that one-step setup of choosing the SSID to lock onto, you can plug
*anything* you want into the radio (e.g., a router, a camera, a computer, a
mobile device, etc.) and it will be using the Internet of the SSID you're
locked on to.

2. The Ubiquiti radios can easily be set up in Access Point mode, where you
plug them into your router and then you can put this access point up to 300
feet away from the router, connected by that Ethernet cable.

This allows you to paint any part of your property, e.g., your pool or your
barn or your front gate, etc., or even to paint an entire city miles away,
with your access point.

In this photo below, you see that I have one powerful Rocket M2 (2.4GHz)
which is set up in "station" mode, while the other powerful Rocket M5
(5GHz) is set up in "access point" mode.
<https://s26.postimg.org/kzbm1hpt5/00bradio.jpg>

Bear in mind that these radios can go for a dozen miles line of sight when
connected to a similar radio, but the distance will be far less if the
other radio is a cell phone, a router, or a less powerful access point.

The advantage, however, of these powerful Ubiquiti Rocket M2/M5 radios is
that they have 24dBi and 30dBi antennas respectively, which, if you know
how decibels work, is a huge increase in a weak noisy received signal
strength.

However, even these two relatively weak 14dBi and 18dBi antennas can still
go for miles line of sight under the right conditions on the other side.
<https://s26.postimg.org/jbamhcg6h/00eradio.jpg>

None of those figures even counts the added power of at least 25 or so
decibels (dbM) of power input into the antenna, so that gives you just an
idea of how much more powerful, overall, these radios are compared to your
typical SOHO router (which would be hard pressed to garner even 20dBm of
EIRP overall).