Toshiba TV29C90 problem; Image fades to black...

On Friday, March 25, 2016 at 6:35:32 AM UTC-4, Mark Zacharias wrote:
Couple years back I bought a Micronta 22-206 FET multimeter, virtually "new
old stock".

Well, not quite. While everything looked pristine - Radio Shack branded
batteries had been installed (1975 date code) and just left in there when
the thing was boxed back up.

The batteries, a C-cell and a 9 volt, were totally flat but had never
leaked. Not even a little.

Dodged a bullet on that one.

Mark Z.

This thread lead me to check the battery-included instruments I keep at/near the bench:

B&K LCR meter
Fluke DVM
Transistor Analyzer
ESR Meter
Micronta Digital DVM (travel kit)
RF/AF Signal Injector
Micro Maglite
3D Maglite (AKA "Persuader")

Any one of which could be a significant inconvenience should it fail at a critical time and/or have to go away for a while.

The Geiger counter lives in the closet. It gets used perhaps twice per year.

Ah, well.

Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA
 
"Cydrome Leader" <presence@MUNGEpanix.com> wrote in message
news:nd1m0l$t15$2@reader1.panix.com...
pfjw@aol.com <pfjw@aol.com> wrote: > On Tuesday, March 22, 2016 at
11:59:02 AM UTC-4, Cydrome Leader wrote: > >> The last duracell battery
leakage claim I filed

snip

I now
also remove batteries from my "good" stuff if it is going down for more
than a week or so.




That's a good practice. They only leak when you don't expect it. Then
there are always the batteries that are good for a decade past the "good
until" date.

Couple years back I bought a Micronta 22-206 FET multimeter, virtually "new
old stock".

Well, not quite. While everything looked pristine - Radio Shack branded
batteries had been installed (1975 date code) and just left in there when
the thing was boxed back up.

The batteries, a C-cell and a 9 volt, were totally flat but had never
leaked. Not even a little.

Dodged a bullet on that one.

Mark Z.
 
On Sat, 26 Mar 2016 10:43:40 -0400, bitrex wrote:

I'm replacing the old filter electrolytics in this synthesizer power
supply; they're starting to get a little crusty.

The connectors for the transformer input and the EL backlight driver
output were easy to remove, but I find myself a little stumped on how to
remove this one so I can pull it out and get it over to my (small)
workbench.

Is there any way to easily detach this thing without desoldering it from
the board?

http://tinyurl.com/j5cpgu2

Not sure what you mean, but have x-posted this to a more appropriate
group.
 
On Saturday, March 26, 2016 at 11:06:14 AM UTC-4, Cursitor Doom wrote:
On Sat, 26 Mar 2016 10:43:40 -0400, bitrex wrote:

I'm replacing the old filter electrolytics in this synthesizer power
supply; they're starting to get a little crusty.

The connectors for the transformer input and the EL backlight driver
output were easy to remove, but I find myself a little stumped on how to
remove this one so I can pull it out and get it over to my (small)
workbench.

Is there any way to easily detach this thing without desoldering it from
the board?

http://tinyurl.com/j5cpgu2

Not sure what you mean, but have x-posted this to a more appropriate
group.

Near as I can tell from the picture, this is an unsolder job only. This is a convenient way to solder a bunch of wires in a single coordinated way. Unsolder the connections and mark one side to be sure you get the orientation correct.

Dan
 
On Sunday, March 27, 2016 at 4:57:07 PM UTC-4, Michael Terrell wrote:
"pfjw@aol.com" wrote:

Eveready or Duracell, either will replace the unit at no cost. Chinese crap, no. Fluke would call that negligence, and rightly so.


Peter, the Fluke meters that I've repaired all had GE labeled NiCads.
They were assembled in the form of two packs of two cells that were
soldered together in a pair, and they used some Berg terminals that
snapped onto tiny ball tipped terminal posts. They were approximately C
cell sized, and each pair was in a snap on cover, one on each side of
the line transformer. I have located a supply of new cells from another
OEM, but the wires are hard as a rock, and most of the terminals ar
damaged in the latest batch of Fluke 8050 meters that I received. I have
been unable to locate the part number for the terminals. It isn't listed
in the Fluke manuals. We used that terminal at Microdyne, but I no
longer have any contacts there now that it is part of L3-Com, in Philly.
As far as I know, they dropped support for every product that used that
terminal, as well.

Send them to Fluke. Betcha you will be pleasantly surprised.

Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA
 
"pfjw@aol.com" wrote:
Eveready or Duracell, either will replace the unit at no cost. Chinese crap, no. Fluke would call that negligence, and rightly so.

Peter, the Fluke meters that I've repaired all had GE labeled NiCads.
They were assembled in the form of two packs of two cells that were
soldered together in a pair, and they used some Berg terminals that
snapped onto tiny ball tipped terminal posts. They were approximately C
cell sized, and each pair was in a snap on cover, one on each side of
the line transformer. I have located a supply of new cells from another
OEM, but the wires are hard as a rock, and most of the terminals ar
damaged in the latest batch of Fluke 8050 meters that I received. I have
been unable to locate the part number for the terminals. It isn't listed
in the Fluke manuals. We used that terminal at Microdyne, but I no
longer have any contacts there now that it is part of L3-Com, in Philly.
As far as I know, they dropped support for every product that used that
terminal, as well.
 
On 03/20/2016 8:09 AM, pfjw@aol.com wrote:
On Sunday, March 20, 2016 at 10:37:10 AM UTC-4, DecadentLinuxUserNumeroUno wrote:
On Wed, 16 Mar 2016 01:17:54 -0400, ehsjr <ehsjr@mverizon.net> Gave us:

On 3/13/2016 11:58 PM, DecadentLinuxUserNumeroUno wrote:

I have 4 brand new DVMs and one uses a battery pack up in 3 days flat,
turned OFF! I did some net searching and found a forum where it was
discovered that Fluke put a cheap Toshiba supercap in the meter with a
less than 2 year lifespan and AT the same voltage by this behavior.

Just an FYI: Flukes generally carry a lifetime warranty - and this expedient would void that warranty. A more serious failure would then render the unit worthless and without resort to Fluke.

Just keep this in mind.

Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA

Lifetime by Fluke is defined as seven years after they stop production
of the device:

http://en-us.fluke.com/support/warranties/

My 1980s vintage Fluke test gear 9100s, 9010s, etc., is long past their
lifetime warranty.

John ;-#)#

--
(Please post followups or tech inquiries to the USENET newsgroup)
John's Jukes Ltd. 2343 Main St., Vancouver, BC, Canada V5T 3C9
(604)872-5757 or Fax 872-2010 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games)
www.flippers.com
"Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."
 
pfjw@aol.com <pfjw@aol.com> wrote:
On Friday, March 25, 2016 at 6:35:32 AM UTC-4, Mark Zacharias wrote:

Couple years back I bought a Micronta 22-206 FET multimeter, virtually "new
old stock".

Well, not quite. While everything looked pristine - Radio Shack branded
batteries had been installed (1975 date code) and just left in there when
the thing was boxed back up.

The batteries, a C-cell and a 9 volt, were totally flat but had never
leaked. Not even a little.

Dodged a bullet on that one.

Mark Z.

This thread lead me to check the battery-included instruments I keep at/near the bench:

B&K LCR meter
Fluke DVM
Transistor Analyzer
ESR Meter
Micronta Digital DVM (travel kit)
RF/AF Signal Injector
Micro Maglite
3D Maglite (AKA "Persuader")

Be extra careful with the maglights. Leaked battery swell up and the juice
that comes out will corrode the aluminum and constrict around the battery.
It can be impossible to get the batteries out. I had a Kel-Lite destroyed
that way. Somebody on usenet suggested wrapping the cells in saran wrap
so if they leak you can just slide the whole mess out.
 
On 3/28/2016 8:48 AM, Cydrome Leader wrote:
pfjw@aol.com <pfjw@aol.com> wrote:
On Friday, March 25, 2016 at 6:35:32 AM UTC-4, Mark Zacharias wrote:

Couple years back I bought a Micronta 22-206 FET multimeter, virtually "new
old stock".

Well, not quite. While everything looked pristine - Radio Shack branded
batteries had been installed (1975 date code) and just left in there when
the thing was boxed back up.

The batteries, a C-cell and a 9 volt, were totally flat but had never
leaked. Not even a little.

Dodged a bullet on that one.

Mark Z.

This thread lead me to check the battery-included instruments I keep at/near the bench:

B&K LCR meter
Fluke DVM
Transistor Analyzer
ESR Meter
Micronta Digital DVM (travel kit)
RF/AF Signal Injector
Micro Maglite
3D Maglite (AKA "Persuader")

Be extra careful with the maglights. Leaked battery swell up and the juice
that comes out will corrode the aluminum and constrict around the battery.
It can be impossible to get the batteries out. I had a Kel-Lite destroyed
that way. Somebody on usenet suggested wrapping the cells in saran wrap
so if they leak you can just slide the whole mess out.
That probably won't help. You have to pull them out and there's nothing
to pull on.
I had a maglite with that problem. I had to saw it in half to get a look
at the markings on the battery. Was Duracell. Sent them a picture.
They sent me the cost of the light.
 
John Robertson wrote:
On 03/20/2016 8:09 AM, pfjw@aol.com wrote:
On Sunday, March 20, 2016 at 10:37:10 AM UTC-4, DecadentLinuxUserNumeroUno wrote:
On Wed, 16 Mar 2016 01:17:54 -0400, ehsjr <ehsjr@mverizon.net> Gave us:

On 3/13/2016 11:58 PM, DecadentLinuxUserNumeroUno wrote:

I have 4 brand new DVMs and one uses a battery pack up in 3 days flat,
turned OFF! I did some net searching and found a forum where it was
discovered that Fluke put a cheap Toshiba supercap in the meter with a
less than 2 year lifespan and AT the same voltage by this behavior.

Just an FYI: Flukes generally carry a lifetime warranty - and this expedient would void that warranty. A more serious failure would then render the unit worthless and without resort to Fluke.

Just keep this in mind.

Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA


Lifetime by Fluke is defined as seven years after they stop production
of the device:

http://en-us.fluke.com/support/warranties/

My 1980s vintage Fluke test gear 9100s, 9010s, etc., is long past their
lifetime warranty.

Otherwise, they would still have to support old vacuum tube based
equipment that they built in 1948. They don't even list the manual for
my Fluke 8050 meters. Luckily, several free archive sites have it in
PDF.
 
On 04/02/2016 9:11 PM, Michael A. Terrell wrote:
John Robertson wrote:

On 03/20/2016 8:09 AM, pfjw@aol.com wrote:
On Sunday, March 20, 2016 at 10:37:10 AM UTC-4, DecadentLinuxUserNumeroUno wrote:
On Wed, 16 Mar 2016 01:17:54 -0400, ehsjr <ehsjr@mverizon.net> Gave us:

On 3/13/2016 11:58 PM, DecadentLinuxUserNumeroUno wrote:

I have 4 brand new DVMs and one uses a battery pack up in 3 days flat,
turned OFF! I did some net searching and found a forum where it was
discovered that Fluke put a cheap Toshiba supercap in the meter with a
less than 2 year lifespan and AT the same voltage by this behavior.

Just an FYI: Flukes generally carry a lifetime warranty - and this expedient would void that warranty. A more serious failure would then render the unit worthless and without resort to Fluke.

Just keep this in mind.

Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA


Lifetime by Fluke is defined as seven years after they stop production
of the device:

http://en-us.fluke.com/support/warranties/

My 1980s vintage Fluke test gear 9100s, 9010s, etc., is long past their
lifetime warranty.


Otherwise, they would still have to support old vacuum tube based
equipment that they built in 1948. They don't even list the manual for
my Fluke 8050 meters. Luckily, several free archive sites have it in
PDF.

True enough, Fluke (for one) doesn't appear to mind that folks post
their older technical manuals for obsolete equipment. I've hosted their
manuals for almost two decades with no issues at all (Fluke 9010 and
9100 stuff). Data I/O is another, in fact most of the respectable
technical tools company seem to implicitly support the dissemination of
their older info to keep these devices running...

John :-#)#

--
(Please post followups or tech inquiries to the USENET newsgroup)
John's Jukes Ltd. 2343 Main St., Vancouver, BC, Canada V5T 3C9
(604)872-5757 or Fax 872-2010 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games)
www.flippers.com
"Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."
 
Jeff Liebermann wrote:
On Sat, 02 Apr 2016 23:42:14 -0400, "Michael A. Terrell"
mike.terrell@earthlink.net> wrote:

Fluke used to sell replacement battery packs, so there was no
warranty. These did not damage anything, they simply loose the ability
to take a charge of the decades. The problem is that you can not use
the meter from AC, since the battery powered version has an inverter
that needs the NiCads on the input side to operate. Look at the
schematic of a model 8050, and read the manula where it warns you not to
use that version with dead or missing battery packs.

Thanks. You just explained why my 8050a was acting rather oddly on
AC. When I replaced the battery pack, it magically started working
correctly. I was guessing a loose wire or component, but never
suspected that anything required a working battery:
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=fluke+8050a+battery
I guess I should have read the manual.

You're welcome. I wish the Fluke 8920/8921/8922 true RMS meters (20
MHz upper limit) were as easy to repair and calibrate. I used one at
Microdyne, so I bought one for myself a few years ago. Being able to set
0 dB where you want it, makes gain calculations easy.
 
"pfjw@aol.com" wrote:
On Sunday, March 27, 2016 at 4:57:07 PM UTC-4, Michael Terrell wrote:
"pfjw@aol.com" wrote:

Eveready or Duracell, either will replace the unit at no cost. Chinese crap, no. Fluke would call that negligence, and rightly so.


Peter, the Fluke meters that I've repaired all had GE labeled NiCads.
They were assembled in the form of two packs of two cells that were
soldered together in a pair, and they used some Berg terminals that
snapped onto tiny ball tipped terminal posts. They were approximately C
cell sized, and each pair was in a snap on cover, one on each side of
the line transformer. I have located a supply of new cells from another
OEM, but the wires are hard as a rock, and most of the terminals ar
damaged in the latest batch of Fluke 8050 meters that I received. I have
been unable to locate the part number for the terminals. It isn't listed
in the Fluke manuals. We used that terminal at Microdyne, but I no
longer have any contacts there now that it is part of L3-Com, in Philly.
As far as I know, they dropped support for every product that used that
terminal, as well.

Send them to Fluke. Betcha you will be pleasantly surprised.

Fluke used to sell replacement battery packs, so there was no
warranty. These did not damage anything, they simply loose the ability
to take a charge of the decades. The problem is that you can not use
the meter from AC, since the battery powered version has an inverter
that needs the NiCads on the input side to operate. Look at the
schematic of a model 8050, and read the manula where it warns you not to
use that version with dead or missing battery packs.
 
On Sat, 02 Apr 2016 23:42:14 -0400, "Michael A. Terrell"
<mike.terrell@earthlink.net> wrote:

Fluke used to sell replacement battery packs, so there was no
warranty. These did not damage anything, they simply loose the ability
to take a charge of the decades. The problem is that you can not use
the meter from AC, since the battery powered version has an inverter
that needs the NiCads on the input side to operate. Look at the
schematic of a model 8050, and read the manula where it warns you not to
use that version with dead or missing battery packs.

Thanks. You just explained why my 8050a was acting rather oddly on
AC. When I replaced the battery pack, it magically started working
correctly. I was guessing a loose wire or component, but never
suspected that anything required a working battery:
<http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=fluke+8050a+battery>
I guess I should have read the manual.

--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
 
"I wish the Fluke 8920/8921/8922 true RMS meters (20
MHz upper limit) were as easy to repair and calibrate."

Holy chit, 20 MHz ? I don't even want to know what those things cost.
 
On Sun, 3 Apr 2016 07:42:01 -0700 (PDT), jurb6006@gmail.com wrote:

>Glad my 8050A doesn't have batteries.

Is it Option 1 and duz it work on AC? Mine wouldn't work on AC until
I replaced the battery pack.

Here's what's involved in running it without a battery and replacing
the display with LED's:
<http://www.eevblog.com/forum/repair/fluke-8050a-repair/>
Or, if you don't mind overkill, here's another LED and a graphic
display transplant:
<http://vondervotteimittiss.com/belfry/?p=180>
<http://vondervotteimittiss.com/belfry/?p=129>

--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
 
jurb6006@gmail.com wrote:
"I wish the Fluke 8920/8921/8922 true RMS meters (20
MHz upper limit) were as easy to repair and calibrate."

Holy chit, 20 MHz ? I don't even want to know what those things cost.

Typical used price is around $500. I have seen them sell for $50,
untested.


http://assets.fluke.com/manuals/8920A_21imeng0000.pdf
 
On Wednesday, April 24, 1996 at 12:00:00 AM UTC-7, Tim Warner wrote:
Does anyone know where I can find a replacement for a Lovato DPMC9
Relay/Contactor?
Thanks...
---Tim

eBay. If nothing appropriate is current, save a search.

... Peter E.
 
On Wed, 6 Apr 2016 16:58:02 -0700 (PDT), Peter Easthope
<petereasthope@gmail.com> wrote:

On Wednesday, April 24, 1996 at 12:00:00 AM UTC-7, Tim Warner wrote:
Does anyone know where I can find a replacement for a Lovato DPMC9
Relay/Contactor?
Thanks...
---Tim

eBay. If nothing appropriate is current, save a search.

... Peter E.

Current?? Ho ho ho... 2016-1996=10
 

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