Toshiba TV29C90 problem; Image fades to black...

Je cherche un fusible mais je le trouve pas j ai bien le manuel mais il n en parle pas car il a marcher il y a 2jours et mintenant +rien si vous savez merci pour votr

e aide a tous a charge de revanche pour des depannages sur cette gamme pioneer

 

Slt help mon pd73 pioneer ne s allume plus merci de reponses a +jcs7415030

 

It's 2015, but thanks to this forum i could repair my parents old Panasonic video. I followed the directions of Terry Mohan, i spent only 0.76 EURO and everything went perfectly.
Thanks a lot, Terry.

 

I recently picked up a Dumont scope type 2559a serial # 1252
Looks really cool and the thing weighs like 100 lbs.
Anyway I was playing with it over the holidays and it seems to be reading vertically on the screen instead of horizontally like a normal scope. Anyone ever heard of or seen that before? Any ideas?

 

[Kaz Kylheku]

On 2016-01-06, fordfanatic460@hotmail.com <fordfanatic460@hotmail.com> wrote:

I recently picked up a Dumont scope type 2559a serial # 1252
Looks really cool and the thing weighs like 100 lbs.

That's good; so if you strap your ankle to it with a flexible linkage,
you get protection in those situations where an electric arc would
otherwise throw you across the room.

 

[Tom Miller]

<fordfanatic460@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:2de819e8-abce-434b-ad1e-9c97b1ddb88d@googlegroups.com...

I recently picked up a Dumont scope type 2559a serial # 1252
Looks really cool and the thing weighs like 100 lbs.
Anyway I was playing with it over the holidays and it seems to be reading
vertically on the screen instead of horizontally like a normal scope.
Anyone ever heard of or seen that before? Any ideas?

There's a manual on ebay for pretty cheap.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Cathode-Ray-Oscilloscope-Du-Mont-Type-2559A-748-1047-Instruction-Book-1957-/161667404698?hash=item25a420d39a:g:HcoAAOSwBLlVJzTd

This is a late 1950's scope so most that ever used one have forgotten about
them.

 

[Jon Elson]

fordfanatic460@hotmail.com wrote:

I recently picked up a Dumont scope type 2559a serial # 1252
Looks really cool and the thing weighs like 100 lbs.
Anyway I was playing with it over the holidays and it seems to be reading
vertically on the screen instead of horizontally like a normal scope.
Anyone ever heard of or seen that before? Any ideas?

Possibly somebody swapped the wires on the deflection plates. Usually there
are 4 wires poking out through holes in the CRT magnetic shield, with wires
to the deflection amps. You could try swapping the pairs of wires.

Jon

 

[Michael Black]

On Tue, 5 Jan 2016, fordfanatic460@hotmail.com wrote:

I recently picked up a Dumont scope type 2559a serial # 1252
Looks really cool and the thing weighs like 100 lbs.
Anyway I was playing with it over the holidays and it seems to be reading vertically on the screen instead of horizontally like a normal scope. Anyone ever heard of or seen that before? Any ideas?

Just because you have something to say doesn't mean you should reply to a
17 year old thread, even if it was resurrected last year.

If you have something to say, say it, don't reply to a really old post.

This was isn't even the same model as someone was asking about before.

Take it out of the case, it will likely be a lot lighter (though more
dangerous), that was the case with my first scope I got in 1972 at a ham
club auction for five dollars, barely able to cover audio frequencies and
no triggered sweep, it was a cheap way to play with an oscilliscope.

When I got something better, a friend took it, getting it home on the bus.
I can't believe it.

Michael

 

[Kaz Kylheku]

On 2016-01-06, Michael Black <et472@ncf.ca> wrote:

On Tue, 5 Jan 2016, fordfanatic460@hotmail.com wrote:

I recently picked up a Dumont scope type 2559a serial # 1252
Looks really cool and the thing weighs like 100 lbs.

Just because you have something to say doesn't mean you should reply to a
17 year old thread, even if it was resurrected last year.

That doesn't matter at all because the posting doesn't quote any of that
article. The only clue that it's a followup is the References: header
and the "Re: " prefix in the subject line.

Take away those, and you would have no clue it's a follow-up to
anything old.

 

[legg]

On Wed, 6 Jan 2016 02:31:37 -0500, Michael Black <et472@ncf.ca> wrote:

On Tue, 5 Jan 2016, fordfanatic460@hotmail.com wrote:

I recently picked up a Dumont scope type 2559a serial # 1252
Looks really cool and the thing weighs like 100 lbs.
Anyway I was playing with it over the holidays and it seems to be reading vertically on the screen instead of horizontally like a normal scope. Anyone ever heard of or seen that before? Any ideas?

Just because you have something to say doesn't mean you should reply to a
17 year old thread, even if it was resurrected last year.

With usenet being what it is, there are posts being recycled with new
dates as people shift servers.........perhaps they think they're doing
you a favor.

Unless you read the headers, it's not always obvious.

I'm seeing my old posts showing up from as far back as Y2K, with new
poster names and date.

RL

 

"Just because you have something to say doesn't mean you should >reply to a
17 year old thread, even if it was resurrected last year.

If you have something to say, say it, don't reply to a really old >post.

This was isn't even the same model as someone was asking about >before. "

I totally agree. Google should show this tip when people get on it to access Usenet. Reason ? Others might have to wade through hundreds of posts to get to the meat of things. And as you said, the thread title does not even mention the necromancer's model number. How is anyone else going to find it ?

I hope all the Googlesters read this and get with it but they won't. Even if they do, more will come.

Actually I was here for the OP, but under a different domain and did not comment. Actually some old scopes did have a switch to interpolate X with Y. Rare, but I saw them. You could also do that with a bunch of Teks that used plugins, I have done it on the 7000 series just for fun.

Anyway, in this case I think there is no horizontal sweep and seeing the vertical witho9ut that gives the impression it is turned. Really, how the hell would that happen ?

The way to tell is with the position controls. What happens when you turn those ?

 

[Kaz Kylheku]

On 2016-01-08, jurb6006@gmail.com <jurb6006@gmail.com> wrote:

"Just because you have something to say doesn't mean you should >reply to a
17 year old thread, even if it was resurrected last year.

If you have something to say, say it, don't reply to a really old >post.

This was isn't even the same model as someone was asking about >before. "

I totally agree. Google should show ...

.... a big disclaimer saying "... please, please, make every possible
effort to use a real newsreader connected to an NNTP server and
use this garbage service only in some sort of emergency."

 

On Friday, August 30, 2002 at 1:22:07 PM UTC+2, Shaun Davy wrote:

Am doing repairs on a Pioneer Stereo XR-P740M with amp problems. Its that
one with the 2 halves mounted around the fan!!Problem started when there was
trouble with the tape deck (owner induced) 2 buttons were pressed at once.
after that a tape belt started slipping when unit initialises or other deck
is used. in investigation of that (by owner) it started blowing fuses. Now
the output transistors are blown. Tape deck has now been unplugged from main
pcb. Replaced transistors and again blown.

Have looked at Amp section and looked for info on this amp and found that a
bad 220 ohm resistor can cause this fault, checked board and one of the 2
power transistors (2SA1264) has a bad resistor that looks blown and can't
read print on it (R7547) it is across B-E junction like the other power
transistor.

My plan of attack is to replace transistors 2SA1264 & 2SC3181, the smd
resistor and put in a 1A fuse to start with to make sure im not going to
blow transistors. Also seen info where a bad tape motor can cause these
transistors to blow. Can i try the above with the tape deck still unplugged?
and if so can i plug the tape deck back in and not be worried about blowing
op transistors again.
I know this amp is a beast but would really like to get it running again.

Any suggestions appreciated

Shaun

Hi Shaun

Did you manage to get the fault on the power amp?
I two have an xr-p740m that keeps blowing fuses.
If I switch the unit on without the power amp connected it doesn't blow the fuse , but as the power amp module also include the voltage regulators it might be something further down the power rail.
Perhaps a bad cassette motors like Lindsey and/or Aaron mentioned.
I have desoldered all the trough hole transistors and did not find any short on any off them.
My R7547 test 220ohm without me desoldering it.

This looks like a really awesome amp and would love to get it running again.

If you have any info to spare on the problem or unit I would really appreciate it.

Do you know if this unit would function normally if the tape and CD units are disconnected?

Sorry for my bad English :-(


Regards

Bennie van Eeden

 

[John-Del]

On Sunday, January 10, 2016 at 3:17:51 PM UTC-5, ben10.v...@gmail.com wrote:

Hi Shaun

Did you manage to get the fault on the power amp?

If he did, that was 13 years ago.

As far as this amp goes; it's a toilet. Instead of using speaker protection output relays (which are at several cents U.S. each) they use a "blow line" to intentionally destroy the outputs which will open the fuse and save the speakers (maybe, depending on how many fuses were tried and of what current rating).

This is the famous "smoke chimney" that uses the fan to exhaust the smoke out the back of the amp. I still can't believe Pioneer built this bomb.

But anyway, usually changing the outputs *and* the smd emitter resistors will keep it from destroying itself long enough for the check to clear. I did close to a hundred of these years ago without buying the two board halves from Pioneer.

 

[Rheilly Phoull]

On 11/01/2016 4:17 AM, ben10.vaneeden@gmail.com wrote:

On Friday, August 30, 2002 at 1:22:07 PM UTC+2, Shaun Davy wrote:
Am doing repairs on a Pioneer Stereo XR-P740M with amp problems. Its that
one with the 2 halves mounted around the fan!!Problem started when there was
trouble with the tape deck (owner induced) 2 buttons were pressed at once.
after that a tape belt started slipping when unit initialises or other deck
is used. in investigation of that (by owner) it started blowing fuses. Now
the output transistors are blown. Tape deck has now been unplugged from main
pcb. Replaced transistors and again blown.

Have looked at Amp section and looked for info on this amp and found that a
bad 220 ohm resistor can cause this fault, checked board and one of the 2
power transistors (2SA1264) has a bad resistor that looks blown and can't
read print on it (R7547) it is across B-E junction like the other power
transistor.

My plan of attack is to replace transistors 2SA1264 & 2SC3181, the smd
resistor and put in a 1A fuse to start with to make sure im not going to
blow transistors. Also seen info where a bad tape motor can cause these
transistors to blow. Can i try the above with the tape deck still unplugged?
and if so can i plug the tape deck back in and not be worried about blowing
op transistors again.
I know this amp is a beast but would really like to get it running again.

Any suggestions appreciated

Shaun

Hi Shaun

Did you manage to get the fault on the power amp?
I two have an xr-p740m that keeps blowing fuses.
If I switch the unit on without the power amp connected it doesn't blow the fuse , but as the power amp module also include the voltage regulators it might be something further down the power rail.
Perhaps a bad cassette motors like Lindsey and/or Aaron mentioned.
I have desoldered all the trough hole transistors and did not find any short on any off them.
My R7547 test 220ohm without me desoldering it.

This looks like a really awesome amp and would love to get it running again.

If you have any info to spare on the problem or unit I would really appreciate it.

Do you know if this unit would function normally if the tape and CD units are disconnected?

Sorry for my bad English :-(


Regards

Bennie van Eeden


Hey Ben, did you check the date on the posting ??

 

zaaaaaaaaaaaaap


https://goo.gl/sWMauc

antiquo !

anyone know of a way to travel to a Groups post No. One ?

 

[John Robertson]

On 01/12/2016 6:58 PM, Steven P wrote:

Hi, I have a power supply board for a Technics electric piano (a professional instrument, not a cheap "keyboard"). The power supply board appears to be cooked. (Not visibly burnt tho.) I have a so-so-quality pdf of the service manual too. Was wondering if anyone here who does board repairs could handle this. At your regular rate, of course. Thx! Bonus points if you can also check the CPU board too. (There's only these 2 boards and a small transformer, plus speakers.) Model is Technics SX-PR51.

You would likely get a better response if you posted this in
sci.electronics.repair or rec.antiques.radio+phono

I've cross-posted it there

John :-#)#
--
(Please post followups or tech inquiries to the USENET newsgroup)
John's Jukes Ltd. 2343 Main St., Vancouver, BC, Canada V5T 3C9
(604)872-5757 or Fax 872-2010 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games)
www.flippers.com
"Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."

 

[Steven P]

On Wednesday, January 13, 2016 at 1:27:55 AM UTC-5, John Robertson wrote:

On 01/12/2016 6:58 PM, Steven P wrote:
Hi, I have a power supply board for a Technics electric piano (a professional instrument, not a cheap "keyboard"). The power supply board appears to be cooked. (Not visibly burnt tho.) I have a so-so-quality pdf of the service manual too. Was wondering if anyone here who does board repairs could handle this. At your regular rate, of course. Thx! Bonus points if you can also check the CPU board too. (There's only these 2 boards and a small transformer, plus speakers.) Model is Technics SX-PR51.


You would likely get a better response if you posted this in
sci.electronics.repair or rec.antiques.radio+phono

I've cross-posted it there

John :-#)#
--
(Please post followups or tech inquiries to the USENET newsgroup)
John's Jukes Ltd. 2343 Main St., Vancouver, BC, Canada V5T 3C9
(604)872-5757 or Fax 872-2010 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games)
www.flippers.com
"Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."

Here for replies to the cross-post!

 

[Ismo Salonen]

On 13.01.2016 22:06, Steven P wrote:

On Wednesday, January 13, 2016 at 1:27:55 AM UTC-5, John Robertson wrote:
On 01/12/2016 6:58 PM, Steven P wrote:
Hi, I have a power supply board for a Technics electric piano (a professional instrument, not a cheap "keyboard"). The power supply board appears to be cooked. (Not visibly burnt tho.) I have a so-so-quality pdf of the service manual too. Was wondering if anyone here who does board repairs could handle this. At your regular rate, of course. Thx! Bonus points if you can also check the CPU board too. (There's only these 2 boards and a small transformer, plus speakers.) Model is Technics SX-PR51.


You would likely get a better response if you posted this in
sci.electronics.repair or rec.antiques.radio+phono

I've cross-posted it there

John :-#)#
--
(Please post followups or tech inquiries to the USENET newsgroup)
John's Jukes Ltd. 2343 Main St., Vancouver, BC, Canada V5T 3C9
(604)872-5757 or Fax 872-2010 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games)
www.flippers.com
"Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."

Here for replies to the cross-post!

Yes but could you limit distribution ? This group is worldwide and we at
the other side of big pond are not easily to work those repairs

br
ismo

 

Yes, I appreciate that this thread is almost ... 20 ... years old. But just for giggles, I can confirm that we had the same model VCR from 1986 to 1992, and whenever sunlight would fall on the remote sensor, it would startup and record ....

On Friday, 27 November 1998 08:00:00 UTC, Franc Zabkar wrote:

I am troubleshooting an Akai VS3 VCR which intermittently turns itself
on (from standby mode) and begins to play without a tape being
present. It appears to be in REC mode when doing this. Timer recording
is not programmed. The customer says that the unit will sometimes
rewind or fast forward.

I have changed the power supply PCB, which also has an MB88401 uP.
Since then the unit appears to misbehave less frequently. It now
switches (by itself) to power on mode but does not play.

Can anyone offer any advice?


-- Franc Zabkar

Please remove one 'g' from my address when replying by email.