Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.
On Saturday, April 5, 1997 4:00:00 AM UTC-4, Scroop Moth wrote:
Adcom GFA-535 power amp has one dead channel. The internal fuse on that
channel blows out.
Is this something an amateur could learn to fix, or do I need to take the
amp to a pro? Are there any typical kinds of failure I could check out?
I have the very same amplifier that had a similar issue. after a voltage surge, the right channel made on very short ('instant') burst of tone and then quit. Found one of the internal fuses blown, replaced, and the same tone was generated so I shut it off immediately. I pulled off the grille, turned the amp back on, and found the (instant/momentary) tone was the woofer extending out fully and staying put. Turned off.
I ended up joining Audiokarma and one member pointed me to http://www.hifi-manuals.com/ where you can download manuals (owner, service, repair) for free. If got the manuals for the -535 with the intention of doing the repair myself but couldn't find the time. So, I took it to a local repair shop (fingers crossed that they knew what they're doing) and got it back a couple days and $50 later and it's perfect.
There are four 2SC2362 transistors for each channel labeled Q601, 603, 605, and 615. Q601 was the failed one in my case.
Hello, and would that be the "Well Hung Chang" model? I only have theHc-g205 for s/part
I am looking for a copy of the circuit diagram for the Hung Chang
HC-G205 function generator. The unit's output amp has burnt out
completely.
On 09/16/2014 10:28 PM, azaharimyi@gmail.com wrote:
Hc-g205 for s/part
Hello, and would that be the "Well Hung Chang" model? I only have the
schematic for a Wang Chung radio. (Sorry but I couldn't resist.) Sincerely,
Danny D. wrote, on Mon, 29 Sep 2014 20:51:58 +0000:
This data is confusing, to me.
Since I was confused by the fact that the new H72 chain of identical
pitch, gauge and number of drive links as the G72 chain would *not* fit
my 18-inch Husqvarna 445 chainsaw recently bought at Lowes, I called
Oregon directly at the number shown in that Micro-Lite brochure
(503-653-8881):
http://www.oregonproducts.com/pdf/misc/MicroLiteBroch.pdf
At that number, I asked to speak with their most knowledgeable guy, who
turned out to be "Vic" who told me that the 18-inch Husqvarna 445 could
have come with any of three (3) different bars:
1. Standard-kerf bar, 0.050 gauge, 0.325 pitch, 72 drive links, or,
2. Narrow-kerf bar, 0.050 gauge, 0.325 pitch, 72 drive links, or even,
3. what he called a "3/8-inch 50-gauge bar".
I told him that the Oregon H72 chain package should say something like:
** ensure that your bar is a STANDARD-kerf bar!
And he said he'd get that information over to the right people.
He agreed that, even though the pitch, gauge, and number of drive links
are the same, the Oregon H72 is the *wrong* chain for the narrow-kerf bar
that is on my Husqvarna 445 (the right chain is the Oregon G72).
Vic explained that the cutting edge is a "few thousandths" thinner on the
narrow-kerf chains, and that the "rails" of the narrow-kerf bars is
proportionately thinner (hence, the bar itself is thinner).
When I countered that the gauge is the same, he mentioned that the
*depth* of the groove on the bar is the same; it's just that the rails on
the bar are different.
He wasn't totally sure what damage would result, but he said that the
wider cutting edge "could" hit something inside the chain saw (which he
agreed was probably unlikely); and he said that the top-heavy wider-kerf
chain "could" possibly damage the admittedly thinner rails of the narrow-
kerf bar.
All in all, the takeaway is that it is *not* sufficient to match a
chainsaw by the pitch, gauge, and number of drive links. One also has to
match the width of the kerf cut by the cutting edge.
Sigh. Who knew? Not me.
So what is the difference between the kerf width of the three chains? I
doubt that a few thou would start catching on the chainsaw body unless
the body clearances are tighter than they should be on any chainsaw. You
may get accelerated wear on the bar rails if you tend to tilt the bar in
the kerf with the wider chains. But the chain you got should be usable
in my guestimation, just try to keep the bar straight in the cut.
One of my saws, a small Stihl, has a 14 inch bar and is aimed atCharlie+ wrote, on Tue, 30 Sep 2014 08:06:29 +0100:
So what is the difference between the kerf width of the three chains? I
doubt that a few thou would start catching on the chainsaw body unless
the body clearances are tighter than they should be on any chainsaw. You
may get accelerated wear on the bar rails if you tend to tilt the bar in
the kerf with the wider chains. But the chain you got should be usable
in my guestimation, just try to keep the bar straight in the cut.
These are good questions.
All I know is the difference in cutter is a few thousandths.
How many? Vic said he didn't know, but when I had pressed him, he said
not more than 5 or 10 thousandths.
When I pressed him on how that would damage the bar with the thinner
rails, he said that that's what they tell him.
So, I have had three (3) customer service personnel tell me the same
thing - but not one of them can tell me why.
The part of the chain that fits into the bar is about .005" thinner that
normal chain. So even though there is a chain that has the same pitch
and so on it will not fit easily into this bar.
OP said all three chains were .050 so this is not useful, an extra .005
would be a major difference. I wouldnt dream of force using a .055 chain
in a .050 bar. asking for a jam and superfast sprocket wear. C+
For your amusement:
http://802.11junk.com/jeffl/pics/home/slides/chain-saw-repair.html
http://www.baileysonline.com/Chainsaw-Chain/Chainsaw-Chain-325-Pitch-
x-050-Gauge/
http://www.baileysonline.com/Chainsaw-Chain/Chainsaw-Chain-325-Pitch-
x-050-Gauge/Narrow-Kerf-Chainsaw-Chain/
On Tue, 30 Sep 2014 11:29:15 +0000 (UTC), "Danny D."
dannydiamico@gmail.com> wrote:
Charlie+ wrote, on Tue, 30 Sep 2014 08:06:29 +0100:
So what is the difference between the kerf width of the three chains? I
doubt that a few thou would start catching on the chainsaw body unless
the body clearances are tighter than they should be on any chainsaw. You
may get accelerated wear on the bar rails if you tend to tilt the bar in
the kerf with the wider chains. But the chain you got should be usable
in my guestimation, just try to keep the bar straight in the cut.
These are good questions.
All I know is the difference in cutter is a few thousandths.
How many? Vic said he didn't know, but when I had pressed him, he said
not more than 5 or 10 thousandths.
When I pressed him on how that would damage the bar with the thinner
rails, he said that that's what they tell him.
So, I have had three (3) customer service personnel tell me the same
thing - but not one of them can tell me why.
One of my saws, a small Stihl, has a 14 inch bar and is aimed at
homeowners who want to cut up small stuff. It uses an anti-kickback
chain made for infrequent users, folks who don't have much experience
with chain saws and how to use them. The part of the chain that fits
into the bar is about .005" thinner that normal chain. So even though
there is a chain that has the same pitch and so on it will not fit
easily into this bar. I was able to find a more aggressive chain than
the stock one but the better chain for lots of cuts won't fit in the
bar so I will be buying another bar for this saw because it gets lots
of use. I imagine your chains are the same. I can push the thicker
chain into the bar but it drags so much that the bar would overheat
quickly. I suppose I could put the chain in with some lube and run it
slowly and eventually wear the bar to fit but I'm just gonna buy
another bar. I'll get a 16 inch bar because the Stihl dealer says that
a 16 inch bar is really the longest bar the saw can pull and still cut
fast.
Eric
When a tooth is cutting there is force applied toward the bar, thinner
bar less able to resist that force. The greater the tooth bite, the
greater the force. Ditto for any lateral motion.
The only problem is that it's *not* a low-kickback chain!
Don't worry about that.