Toshiba TV29C90 problem; Image fades to black...

[James Sweet]

"xbox" <philbarnett@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1106379960.141721.120380@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com...

check out www. they are good!

Any place that spams the usenet is suddenly not good enough for me to
consider.

 

[SansAdresse]

The low-out will go to a powered subwoofer.

(I don't really understand your statement " I would do almost
anything..." Just a problem with subtleties of English.)

On Sat, 22 Jan 2005 20:59:27 GMT, "NSM" <nowrite@to.me> wrote:

What will you do with the low out? I would do almost anything to use the
adaptor loop.

 

[Asimov]

"Llurker" bravely wrote to "All" (18 Jan 05 02:14:35)
--- on the heady topic of "VCR problem diagnosis help please"

Clean mode switch, check tape sensor LED, maybe re-time loading basket.


Ll> From: "Llurker" <no_reply@null.com>
Ll> Xref: aeinews sci.electronics.repair:7584

Ll> I have a JVC HR-VP644U VCR (couldn't find any online manuals or
Ll> database entries for it) which has the following problem: Once a tape
Ll> is in, everything works fine. However, the tape won't eject if it's
Ll> in, and if it's out, the VCR doesn't recognize when I feed it one. If
Ll> the tape is (manually) loaded and I press eject, the tape will unload,
Ll> pause, reload to play position, and then turn off. I can turn the VCR
Ll> on and use it just fine. I have opened the machine up and can't find
Ll> anything obviously wrong--no broken pieces, dry belts, broken teeth,
Ll> etc.
[,,,]

.... If all else fails, hurl it across the room a few times!

 

[NSM]

"SansAdresse" <sansadresse@nullepart.xyz> wrote in message
newskm5v0hn70scc0ihghlcc8nlcp2gti1tjs@4ax.com...

The low-out will go to a powered subwoofer.

(I don't really understand your statement " I would do almost
anything..." Just a problem with subtleties of English.)

OK.

"I would do almost anything..." == that is so easy and everything else is so
hard.

I use an unpowered subwoofer. For your case, I would tap the low off from
the speaker outputs, combine them and feed that to the powered subwoofer.
That way the remote vol control will still work as expected. I'd use two 100
ohm resistors feeding a 10 ohm resistor and connect the powered subwoofer
input to the connection point.

N

 

[SansAdresse]

The idea is to cleanly separate the frequencies (I am just going by
the textbook!), and to avoid sending to the main speakers the low
frequencies which may drive them into distortion. (Bach's organ music
is played on the system.)

================================================

On Sat, 22 Jan 2005 23:38:00 GMT, "NSM" <nowrite@to.me> wrote:

The low-out will go to a powered subwoofer.

I use an unpowered subwoofer. For your case, I would tap the low off from
the speaker outputs, combine them and feed that to the powered subwoofer.
That way the remote vol control will still work as expected. I'd use two 100
ohm resistors feeding a 10 ohm resistor and connect the powered subwoofer
input to the connection point.

 

[kbrock101]

All proof and documentation can be viewed at
http://www.breathemoreasily.com and
http://www.secondinwdiarpurifier.com

 

[Sam Goldwasser]

You should at least test the electrolytic caps in the startup circuit.

Since as I recall, it blows up only when applying AC power suddenly, something
funny is going on during startup.

--- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ Mirror: http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/
Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/REPAIR/
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Important: Anything sent to the email address in the message header above is
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"Henry Kolesnik" <kolesnik@sbcglobal.net> writes:

As of this moment it has run over 26 hours without shutting down. I've
never seen any evidence that ESR can be an intermittent phenomena. Can
someone please tell me how intermittent ESR comes about?

--

73
Hank WD5JFR
electricitym@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1106092875.223262.299020@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com...
Henry Kolesnik wrote:
snipped:
At this point I'm not willing to do a
shotgun replacement of all the caps. I do keep running the power
supply and
the condition is not getting worse. I wish it would fail so I might
find
the failed component. The way it is now it's impossible to
troubleshoot
without shotgunning.




Henry:
Looking for cracked circuit board connections AND testing the
electrolytics with an ESR meter (or substituting electrolytics if you
do not have an ESR meter) is NOT "shotgunning".... it is real
troubleshooting advice as a result of the symptoms you posted. If you
continue to use it with the problem you reported it may fail completely
and be a bigger repair job.
Pay a little now Or pay a lot later.
electricitym

 

[sofie]

Henry Kolesnik:
It is NOT "intermittent ESR" that is the problem, rather it is that maybe
some electrolytics have developed high ESR and are operating just at or near
the threshold of the circuitry operating correctly... (see the reply post
from Tim Wescott).
At this point you have been given sound technical advice to check for
circuit board solder connections and to suspect the electrolytics......
until you perform this important initial suggested troubleshooting there is
not much more that you can do ??? Get this fixed right away before it
fails completely as you have previously been cautioned.
electricitym


"Henry Kolesnik" <kolesnik@sbcglobal.net> wrote in message
newsrwHd.20927$iC4.978@newssvr30.news.prodigy.com...

As of this moment it has run over 26 hours without shutting down. I've
never seen any evidence that ESR can be an intermittent phenomena. Can
someone please tell me how intermittent ESR comes about?

 

[Asimov]

"Phil Bowser" bravely wrote to "All" (19 Jan 05 01:01:09)
--- on the heady topic of "PIONEER 1996 model SD5193K?? peculiar problem..."

Maybe the video jungle is getting the sync timing delayed or the
H-blanking pulse getting narrowed. What does the scope show? Since it
takes time before the problem appears this implies something is
heating up. It could be a zener diode used for reference, a cracked
ceramic cap, or a partially open resistor. Check all zeners near the
video processor. A very leaky electro on a bypass or supply line is
also possible since it gets worse as it heats up. Look for a bulging
or shrunken sleeve. This is the best I can do. I've fixed a roughly
similar type of problem before only it involved the vertical section
shifting.


PB> From: "Phil Bowser" <pbowser@pa.net>
PB> Xref: aeinews sci.electronics.repair:7671

PB> Today I spent far too much time today trying to diagnose a problem
PB> I have never seen before (On any proj. TV, for that matter...) I
PB> thought maybe it was just strange enough that somebody has run into it
PB> before...
PB> Set powers up, displays picture and sound from all inputs.
PB> Usually when cold (very first turned on) pix is correct on screen, then
PB> begins shifting to the right (takes about 10 - 30 seconds.) During the
PB> transition, the picture squiggles a little like a poor AFC lock on an
PB> old directview zenith. Once the picture is shifted about 3 inches to
PB> the right (leaving a black blanking bar on the left 3" of the screen)
PB> it stabilizes, and will play indefinitely in this condition.
PB> Convergence is correct, RASTER is correct, On Screen display is
PB> correct, just the video "slides to the right" - if you have the OSD
PB> called up while picture is shifting, you can see the video sliding the
PB> the right, while the OSD remains in its correct position. Since the
PB> raster and geometry are correct, I have ruled out a deflection problem.
PB> I 'scoped all B+ supplys from Defl./P/S pc board, and they are correct
PB> & clean. I soldered any connection that looked cracked on the
PB> P/S/Defl PCB and convergence, as good preventive maint. and replaced
PB> several lytics that took excessive heat on P/S/Defl. regardless of the
PB> fact that they read good for ESR and capacitance. I have also sprayed
PB> freeze on the system control micro, jungle, and Horiz. osc. resonator
PB> - unit does not return to normal...

PB> It looks like there is a phase shift in the video versus the
PB> deflection, but I haven't been able to tell why, since the flyback
PB> pulses are clean, etc...This one's got me stumped. Anyone seen this
PB> before? Any bulletins on this? (I don't get to work on as many
PB> Pioneers as other brands...)


.... Well I defragged my TV and went all the way back to basic cable!

 

[Michael]

OLED is real, folks. At the CES in Las Vegas, I saw an OLED pocket TV
with built-in hard drive recorder, intended to retail for about $600.
Not the brightest picture I've ever seen, but absolutely gorgeous
otherwise. Looked the same from any viewing angle, and was more like a
CRT picture than any LCD or plasma I've ever seen. Lifetime? No idea.
But it was mighty nice.

 

[James Sweet]

"kbrock101" <kbrock101@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:8ad07f8708924a71fac30461420a9734@localhost.talkaboutelectronicequipment.com...

All proof and documentation can be viewed at
http://www..com and
http://www..com

Ok so websites affiliated with the manufacture. Take your bullshit
elsewhere, this is a *repair* group, not a place to sell gimmicky products.

 

[meterman]

I have the same tv, and you're right it does not matter if I turn in on
with the remote or use the power button on the tv. One other odd item,
sometimes the tv will not turn on at all, when this happens if I press the
tv/video button on the tv it will power up only to shut down 3-4 minutes
later, come back on in a few minutes, shut off again in 3-4 minutes, then
it might stay on for hours.

any thought on what it might be other that previously stated. also, no one
really gave an opinion as to whether it was worth fixing as the cost of
TV's has gone down considerably in the past few years.

thanks,

meterman

 

[NSM]

"meterman" <jim@meder3.com> wrote in message
news:58fc75a1d4c1c4a01ae2ee9e986d0d5b@localhost.talkaboutelectronicequipment.com...

I have the same tv, and you're right it does not matter if I turn in on
with the remote or use the power button on the tv. One other odd item,
sometimes the tv will not turn on at all, when this happens if I press the
tv/video button on the tv it will power up only to shut down 3-4 minutes
later, come back on in a few minutes, shut off again in 3-4 minutes, then
it might stay on for hours.

any thought on what it might be other that previously stated. also, no one
really gave an opinion as to whether it was worth fixing as the cost of
TV's has gone down considerably in the past few years.

Irish TV? Only plays shows you don't like - while you're out?

N

 

Check value of R4526 off IC4501. Resolder resistor legs and see what
happens. Good luck.

 

The system control is likely missing something it needs to see before
it will turn on the convergence. Check all the inputs to the system
control and the clock and data lines.

 

[DHT112A]

stokesb@cox.net wrote:

Check value of R4526 off IC4501. Resolder resistor legs and see what
happens. Good luck.

Resistor R4526(6200ohm) is good and solder is good. Thanks for the
response.

 

[Bill Jr]

Jeff,
If you can't remember Hitachi just sign up again.

Bill Jr


"JURB6006" <jurb6006@aol.com> wrote in message
news:20050116215038.12854.00000076@mb-m11.aol.com...

Believe it or not I thought I was going nuts. I swear I posted it but it
never
showed up on my AOL NG reader. I read your response through Google (yik).
They
really screwed it up, I agree with the others in here about that, but if
not
for Google I would've never known about your reply. If it keeps up I'll
call
AOL. I'd leave them but I'm actually using their seperate favorites and
cookies
etc., associated with each name.

I DLed the VZ9 print from Mits. They no longer have the VZ8 online.

Anyway, thanks, that's exactly what I forgot, 3diamonds.com. Damn, I
remember
the username and password but not the site, what a trip. Now all I gotta
do is
the same for Hitachi, they assign you a username, I know the password but
not
the name. This is all because of spyware, the cookies went out with the
bad
bads.

Now with this AOL problem I wonder how many more responses I've gotten and
never saw.

Thanks again buddy.

JURB

 

[Mad Ad]

Is it fixed?


You have a cool web search variant and if still infected you will need to 1.
load BHO Demon tray app, it doesnt get rid of the hard ones but watches over
your sysrem and fires off bells and whistes as soon as your taken over. 2.
Get the latest copy of CWS Shredder and follow the instructions carefully 3.
If you cant do it, you may need Hijack This but you need to know what you
are removing - best post the result for all to see and take advice on what
to remove 4. Finally (and most importantly) once free of infection, use a
custom hosts file to keep the buggers out.

Ad


"Ken Weitzel" <kweitzel@shaw.ca> wrote in message
news:KRzId.143826$6l.87789@pd7tw2no...

Franc Zabkar wrote:

On Fri, 21 Jan 2005 20:02:27 -0500, "Lou" <lf08357@Yahoo.Com> put
finger to keyboard and composed:


I have what is being labeled as CWS_N3S, CWS and/or some combos on my
computer. Hijacker programs as they're being called. I have installed
previously - Ad Aware, then I bought a rather good spyware program and
the
latest Norton Anti-virus. NONE of them will touch this. Any way to get
rid
of this? I try to set Yahoo as my home page, yet I constantly get MSN
HOME
SEARCH page with nothing more than a shopping list of garbage listings.
My
web searches are interrupted to some bull shit page with similar bull
shit
listings. NOTHING related to my search. I'm about ready to blow off all
off
my computer and reload the software. When I do sweeps and scans, it
always
says 98% deleted. Never 100%. Now, some of my sites such as E-Bay aren't
displaying properly - just random garbage. Probably one of these screw
ball
programs deleted a file as a virus. So much for getting proper help. The
lap
top often seems to run hotter than normal, the pc fan on "high" gear.
Sometimes the clattering sound.


All these security products are free downloads:

Spybot Search and Destroy
Adaware
AVG Antivirus

If possible, use a non-MS browser (eg Firefox or Opera), a different
newsreader (eg FreeAgent), and a different email client (eg Eudora).
All are free, although some run in sponsored mode.

If you are using Win98, you can see what spyware is running on your
system by going to Start->Run and typing "msconfig". The startup
window will have a list of autorun programs, some of which may be
spyware.


- Franc Zabkar

Hi Frank...

MSConfig will show you only a tiny portion of what's
running. Suggest that you not depend on it at all.

Instead, switch SpyBot to advanced mode. Then click
Tools. Take a look at the Start Up option to see
if not all, then at least far far more software that
runs at start up.

Take care.

Ken

 

[Wildcard]

Seems like a lot of work for just a couple corrupted
bytes in the eeprom. In most of the eeprom related
problems I have found none of the eeprom's were
actually bad. The just had corrupted bytes in
the sectors that the micro won't write.

I pull the ic. Read it in a simple eeprom programmer.
fix the corrupted bytes in hex editor. then rewrite
the eeprom. Then it's just a simple matter of
installing a socket and reinstall the ic.

Works almost every time. As far as the orginal startup
data. As I ordered ic's orginally to fix these problems
I read each one and saved by part number. That gave me
my needed orginal settings. The only time I order a
rca orginal eeprom is when I don't have one on file.

Built the programmer out of bits and pieces sitting
around. Got the software off the net.

 

[T i m]

On Mon, 24 Jan 2005 06:59:16 -0500, "Jerry G." <jerryg50@hotmail.com>
wrote:

You just explained a classic example why it is important that you call a
properly trained and knowledgeable TV service person to do the repairs.

I have repaired (inc designed / built) nearly all my own gear since I
was 12. My first model boat / Xmas present consisted of a box of
plywood for the boat and several bags of components for the RC gear.
;-)

There is no way an inexperienced person would find these types of faults
from guessing at them.

Possibly .. you can get lucky though ..(As have recently with my Sony
TV, AEG Washing machine, Panasonic Video ..)

Going by your description, he worked things out by

doing some measurements, and he has an understanding of what is going on,
and what to expect.

Indeed. And I followed him every step of the way.

What he did would be very dangerous for someone who is not properly trained
and experienced with this type of service work.

Well I have enough 'experience' of 'this type of work' to seek
assistance past a certian point ;-)

The voltages and current

sources inside of a TV set can be lethal.

As in my Sony TV, Video, Washing machine .. getting the brakes wroing
on your car or motorbike can spoil your day too? Luckily I know those
are ok because *I* did them.

Even after the power is switched

off, and the set is unplugged from the AC mains, the main electrolytic
capacitors can still cause injury to someone probing around, and not knowing
what they are doing.

Indeed, and we discharged the main 'troublemaker' before going
anywhere near it ;-)

Don't get me wrong Jerry, your points are very valid for the average
'Joe', just I don't think it's fair to assume that just because I
tried to fix this set myself that I am working to the typical criteria
for 'most folk'.

I offered to take the set and have a look at it with no real final
destination planned. Had I not taken it it would have gone in the skip
along with the thousands of things that are thown away every day that
might be perfect or just a few mins / components away from being
perfect.

I checked what I was advised (by those who know) as far as I could,
without any risk, but wasn't lucky. Had that been the end then it
could have simply (reluctantly) continued on it's way to the skip. Had
my 'TV' (don't go there <g&gt mate not been willing to help then it
would have been in the skip now! ;-(

<pause>

Mum has just phoned to say Dad would like the TV set so that's a happy
ending there, but added "could you have a look at my washing machine
as it stopped working today .. " ;-(

Have I had any training on washing machines .. "No". Have I any
experience repairing washing machines "quiite a bit". Will I fix Mum's
one tomorrow .. "I don't know but I'll have a try .. " ;-)

Oh well, maybe I'll get some work done in here soon .. ..

All the best ..

T i m

p.s. I just sold an item on eBay on behalf of an elderly friend and
the buyer wanted to meet them half way to collect / pay for the item
today (all in a bit of a rush) I just sent them (Her and her Daughter)
off in the cat with my Garmin GPS V with the meeting (way)point pre
programmed. She just rang to say 'mission acomplished' and how do they
set the GPS to bring them home ;-)