Toshiba TV29C90 problem; Image fades to black...

svsmbbcs wrote:

my jvc camcorder is snarling my tapes,there is an error message so I
need it
fixed can anybody recommend someone.I am in aberdeen,but can post if
need
be.
thanks

I would probably be suspicious of free estimates, as to perform a
reliable diagnosis in repair nearly always necessitates opening the
machine and inspecting it. On sight alone, it is often hard to get a
good idea of the fault and what needs repairing or replacing. It is
probably worth paying an initial inspection fee (usually discounted off
the final bill if you go ahead with repair) to get a clearer idea. Ask
around.
-good luck, Ben

 

[VMI]

Hi Rono,
Can you tell me a bit more on that "comerator scope"
What is it, Brand name, model etc...

Zilog


"Rono" <rono@nl.rogers.com> wrote in message
news:TYednURGcfaltXDcRVn-1g@rogers.com...

The varistors will "short" in the event of a voltage
spike, to protect the circuitry beyond it! Have you
measured the transrormer to ensure it matches in
impedence? Also, use a Comparator Scope to check
each active component like IC's, transistors, & diodes!
The Comparator Scope compares to a "known good"
unit! Rono.

 

[Tim Wescott]

Henry Kolesnik wrote:

As of this moment it has run over 26 hours without shutting down. I've
never seen any evidence that ESR can be an intermittent phenomena. Can
someone please tell me how intermittent ESR comes about?

Who ever said ESR had to be intermittent to cause intermittent problems?

--

Tim Wescott
Wescott Design Services
http://www.wescottdesign.com

 

[Robert Bullock]

Well DUH Rob. To clarify in case it wasn't 100% clear: It works with JAMMA
or whatever by seperating the composite sync output from the arcade board
into the primitives. (H, V, /H, and /V Syncs). I'm using it with my JAMMA
harness and JAMMA adapters I built to work on various boards.

"Robert Bullock" <rcbullock@_REMOVE_cox.net> wrote in message
news:d_zHd.14126$sF5.8405@okepread06...
>I bought a Samsung CD1251F/38NA that works with CGA res with only a sync

 

[audiogeeb]

I tried hooking up a VCR to my SANYO AVM2502
and it is still just snow on all channels. Using the VCR tuner is a
no-workie.

 

[Mark C. Spaeth]

In rec.games.video.arcade.collecting Robert Bullock <rcbullock@_remove_cox.net> wrote:
: I bought a Samsung CD1251F/38NA that works with CGA res with only a sync
: seperator circuit. On the back is a switch you must put into Mode II. Mode I
: is probably digital TTL CGA I guess. I found the sync seprator at:
:
: http://www.lupinesystems.com/articles/syncsep.htm It does /HSYNC, /VSYNC,
: VSYNC, HSYNC and more but that'll do.

Or you can do it with 1 chip and a couple diodes, resistors and caps...

--
Mark Spaeth mspaeth@mtl.mit.edu
50 Vassar St., #38.265 mspaeth@mit.edu
Cambridge, MA 02139
(617) 452-2354 http://rgvac.978.org/~mspaeth

 

[Robert Bullock]

Well, so it took two chips. No big. Did you ever send me your version?
Didn't see it in my archives. Post a link if available.

"Mark C. Spaeth" <mspaeth@plancherel.mit.edu> wrote in message
news:41eed2a1$0$574$b45e6eb0@senator-bedfellow.mit.edu...

In rec.games.video.arcade.collecting Robert Bullock
rcbullock@_remove_cox.net> wrote:

Or you can do it with 1 chip and a couple diodes, resistors and caps...

 

[Andrew VK3BFA]

Mmm, cant figure out this new format, so will let fly with probably
already said. Lacing looks lovely, and is a skill used to distinguish
old techs from young techs, cable ties can cut cable, and can cut
fingers as well. Unless there is controlled tension in the cable tie
gun, pressure is too variable. Cable ties can start fires, especially
when someone puts then round a convenient sharp edged bracket which
then cuts into the conductor carrying current. Not nice - very
impressive, but not nice.

Lacing should be done with plastic solid core tubing, not waxed nylon
or string or anthing else that was used for lead sheath cables in 1930.
Phenomena known as "cold flow" where the lacing material can displace
the insulation of the bundle. A well done laced cable run is a thing
of beauty, and if dressed properly you can virtually trace a conductor
from one end to the other. It used to be a trade skill, along with
choosing the correct size hammer for "minor adjustments" Ah, the good
old days......

73 de VK3BFA Andrew

 

[Alex]

john Wrote:

HDTV LAMP FOR PANASONIC DLP PROJECTIONS TV PT52DL52 , PART #
TEEC0024-1 FOR SALE $295 EACH, YES IN STOCK ! SHIPPING $15.00 TOTAL
$310.00... PLEASE PAYPAL MONEY TO INTERNETSALESTEAM2000@COMCAST.NET

YES THEY ARE IN STOCK, ETA 5-9 DAYS SHIPPING

JOHN

INTERNET SALES TEAM 2000

AUSTIN TX
I'm interested to buy a new replacement lamp for Panasonic PT52DL10

part #TEEC0024-1, I can pay $350, please email me at agpjt@yahoo.com


--
Alex

 

[Ken Weitzel]

Berlin wrote:

Just throwing this idea out there for discussion. Okay I know there are
large LED screens available. Many used for sports events and advertising.
But what I wonder with the use of the same techniques used in say processor
production. Would it not be possible to make say a 15-20 inch TV screen? I
realise that an LED at that size would be pretty dim and that the processor
required to light them in the correct sequence would be a large unit indeed.
If they ever do figure this out it would be great for the cost effectiveness
(eventually) and not to mention the operation life of an LED. Just a thought

Hi...

Or, how about neon lamps instead?

Maybe with a wheel spinning in front of them? ;^)

Ken

 

[Berlin]

A NEON zoetrope...LOL

"Ken Weitzel" <kweitzel@shaw.ca> wrote in message
news:KxHHd.128328$Xk.39256@pd7tw3no...

Berlin wrote:
Just throwing this idea out there for discussion. Okay I know there
are large LED screens available. Many used for sports events and
advertising. But what I wonder with the use of the same techniques used
in say processor production. Would it not be possible to make say a 15-20
inch TV screen? I realise that an LED at that size would be pretty dim
and that the processor required to light them in the correct sequence
would be a large unit indeed.
If they ever do figure this out it would be great for the cost
effectiveness (eventually) and not to mention the operation life of an
LED. Just a thought

Hi...

Or, how about neon lamps instead?

Maybe with a wheel spinning in front of them? ;^)

Ken

 

[James Sweet]

"Berlin" <e_nigma1@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:wVGHd.128284$8l.29846@pd7tw1no...

Just throwing this idea out there for discussion. Okay I know there
are
large LED screens available. Many used for sports events and advertising.
But what I wonder with the use of the same techniques used in say
processor
production. Would it not be possible to make say a 15-20 inch TV screen? I
realise that an LED at that size would be pretty dim and that the
processor
required to light them in the correct sequence would be a large unit
indeed.
If they ever do figure this out it would be great for the cost
effectiveness
(eventually) and not to mention the operation life of an LED. Just a
thought

The problem is that LED pixels are many times more expensive than competing
technologies like LCD's and plasma. For the small size you need the same
number of pixels as for a large screen, it's just not economical, you'd just
have a $10k 20" TV.

 

On Thu, 20 Jan 2005 06:22:10 UTC, "James Sweet"
<jamessweet@hotmail.com> wrote:

The problem is that LED pixels are many times more expensive than competing
technologies like LCD's and plasma. For the small size you need the same
number of pixels as for a large screen, it's just not economical, you'd just
have a $10k 20" TV.

A friend just dropped in his new Blackberry, and he states that the
new screen is just that......thousands of multi-colour LEDs!

The neat part about it is that it requires no backlight

Give them enough time, those darn engineers will come up with
anything!

Tedd, VE3TJD

 

[Chuck]

On Wed, 19 Jan 2005 16:27:13 -0500, "audiogeeb"
<gbaskind@sbcglobal.net> wrote:

I tried hooking up a VCR to my SANYO AVM2502
and it is still just snow on all channels. Using the VCR tuner is a
no-workie.

I believe this set has the 39k or 33k1/2 watt resistor that opens up
on the main board. If I remember correctly, the number is R108. It
is usually located a little to the right of the flyback. Any
competent servicer should be familiar with this problem. Chuck

 

[JW]

On Thu, 20 Jan 2005 06:22:10 GMT "James Sweet" <jamessweet@hotmail.com>
wrote in Message id: <m6IHd.2334$Hg6.1997@trnddc09>:

The problem is that LED pixels are many times more expensive than competing
technologies like LCD's and plasma. For the small size you need the same
number of pixels as for a large screen, it's just not economical, you'd just
have a $10k 20" TV.

http://www.technewsworld.com/story/news/39392.html

21" - I'll bet this baby cost more than $10k. Pity that there's no picture
of the thing...

 

[Sam Goldwasser]

Check for a shorted armature winding.

--- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ Mirror: http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/
Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/REPAIR/
+Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ: http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/sam/lasersam.htm
| Mirror Sites: http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/REPAIR/F_mirror.html

Note: These links are hopefully temporary until we can sort out the excessive
traffic on Repairfaq.org.

Important: Anything sent to the email address in the message header above is
ignored unless my full name is included in the subject line. Or, you can
contact me via the Feedback Form in the FAQs.

"N Cook" <diverse2@tcp.co.antyspahm.uk> writes:

I took pity on this m/c dumped and had been rained on, half a pint of water
in the lower casing.
I've seen a hose attached to these beasts but took me 5 minutes of head
scratching to discover that secret, as no external hose attachement point.

Powered for 2 seconds, sounded ok but probably an excessive chemically/
ozone smell. Then tipped upside

down
to get in case and water flowed out but had not been enogh to invade the
motor. Needs
Torx 10 and 15 drivers to remove casings.

Fancy looking design appearance but the motor to me looks like the same sort
of vacuum cleaner motor of 30

years ago.
Nothing visibly wrong with stator coils or rotor coils. Resistance
measurements across and between
segments seemed ok. Bit of a noise from the brushes once a revolution, spun
by hand.
Pulled off the spade terminals to unlock and then release the brush
housings. Then spinning the armature with a finger nail against the flow and
gradually increasing the nail angle
a point was reached where one armature segment would catch. Measuring with a
1 to 2 inch micrometer then
the diameter across the commutator was 1.185 inches and 1.192 for the errant
commutator contact strip.
Plenty of life left in the brushes but spark erroded surfaces and broken
leading brush edge.

Why should just one segment be proud? , doesn't seem loose.
Not familiar with this sort of fault. At the moment I am thinking of
spinning in a lathe to bring down this

contact. Point tool or rounded cutter or pointed then round ?
At the moment thinking of grinding back the brushes with a stone about 1.2
inches diameter and then using
commutator bedding stone. Anyone know any better or the pitfalls ? Relieving
the edges of the commutator

strips perhaps with a needle file ?

electronic hints and repair briefs
http://homepages.tcp.co.uk/~diverse

 

[Henry Kolesnik]

The power supply was turned on this morning at 8 am and shut down in less
than 10 minutes. I turned it back on about 9:30 and it is still on, that's
over 4 hours. I'm not that versed on ESR but I have a tester and cm
curious if high ESR can be an intermittent condition and if so what would
the physics of that phenomena be? At this point I'm not willing to do a
shotgun replacement of all the caps. I do keep running the power supply and
the condition is not getting worse. I wish it would fail so I might find
the failed component. The way it is now it's impossible to troubleshoot
without shotgunning.

--

73
Hank WD5JFR
"sofie" <sofie@olypen.com> wrote in message
news:10uqn75tb4oc77f@corp.supernews.com...

Henry:
As long as it is still w"working" the problem is not likely anything more
than either cold or cracked solder connection OR electrolytics that have
dried out or have developed high ESR. If you do not have an ESR meter
then
you will have to use the "one by one" substitution method... or just
replace
all of the electrolytics at once. Just about all other methods of
testing
electrolytics will not provide the crucial ESR test needed especially for
electrolytics in switching power supplies and other high frequency or
critical circuitry.
DO NOT keep running your power supply with this problem.... it will only
get
worse to the point that it will fail all together and be a much more
involved repair.
--
Best Regards,
Daniel Sofie
Electronics Supply & Repair
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -



"Henry Kolesnik" <kolesnik@sbcglobal.net> wrote in message
news:mU9Hd.19989$iC4.2906@newssvr30.news.prodigy.com...
This is a 20 amp switching power supply for their 12 volt ham
transceivers.
I used to leave it on 24 hours a day on receive pulling less than an amp
with no problems but about a month ago it started to shut off. You have
to
turn it off first and wait about 15 minutes and it'll come back on,
sometimes for an hour or longer and other times for 5 to 10 minutes.
After
it goes down you have to turn it off and then wait 10 to 15 and it'll
come
back for an unpredictable time. It doesn't seem matter if it been on for
an
hour or sometime 5 minutes, it'll shut down. It doesn't seem to be a cold
or
heat problem and flexing the board or tapping components won't turn it
off
or make it come on quicker. I don't have a schematic and can't find one.
It must have some kind of logic that senses something and makes it shut
down
and then time out. One thing I have noticed is that if I turn it on when
its not ready to come on I can hear a very, very faint noise (like static
discharge) that goes away as soon as the switch is turned off. It has a
TL494CN. Any tips appreciated.

--

73
Hank WD5JFR

 

[Jerry G.]

LED TV is being worked on. These are in the class of organic LED's.
There are plans to eventualy come out with monitor and TV screens for
general applications. The LED size would have to come down to match the
LCD and Plasma screens for the dots.

The LED technology itself is not the problem. The problem is to make
htat many LED's fit together properly, have the necessary heat
dissipation, and also put out the necessary lumination for this type of
application.

Samsung is about to announce a replacement for the Plasma and LCD
screens using organic LED technology:

http://news.zdnet.co.uk/hardware/emergingtech/0,39020357,39155141,00.htm
Jerry G.
======

 

[Chris L.]

Jerry G. wrote:

This is most likely some failed components in the audio output stage,
and
the pre-driver stages. You will need a lot of experience in servicing
this
type of affair, a scope, a DVM, and an audio generator to properly
troubleshoot this. You will most likely also need the service manual
for
your reciever. This type of servicing can also get somewhat complex
in its
nature.

An intelligent decision would be to give the set out to service
center that
is able to service your reciever.

--


--

Jerry G.
=====


"Chris L." <chrisloll@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1105862387.369452.254600@c13g2000cwb.googlegroups.com...
Yesterday I went to turn my receiver on and listen to an album when
I
noticed I was getting a lot of distortion in my right channel
speaker.
I decided to test out what was going on. I moved the right speaker
to
the B output on the right channel and was experiencing the same
static/distortion. I then switched the right speaker to the left A
output and everything worked fine. To be certain, I switched the
left
speaker to the right channel to find the speaker was producing the
same
sound as the right speaker had earlier. So anyway, it's certainly a
problem with the right channel and not the speakers. Both the A and
B
outputs are producing this very distorted static sound. I don't
have
much knowledge of audio electronics, but I have worked on
electronics
before and can solder, etc. But when it gets down to it, I can't
imagine where to really begin. I imagine since the left channel is
working properly (and I'm assuming both match electronically) I
could
easily see where the problem is, if I knew where to begin. I'm
assuming
nothing blown, but could something need to be re-soldered? The
channel
is still producing sound, but it sounds quite a bit like a blown
speaker, with the static and rattling.

Good call. Thanks guys.

 

[NSM]

"Alan Harriman" <vtech@usol.com> wrote in message
news:nacvu01vd3uqnvmhmm8mm5gnrjpr093ld3@4ax.com...

| >Or, how about neon lamps instead?
| >
| >Maybe with a wheel spinning in front of them? ;^)
|
| A Nipkow Scanning Disk ?

Yes. You did get the sarcasm, right?

N