Toshiba TV29C90 problem; Image fades to black...

Tim,

You did good. No need to explain your actions or qualify yourself. Keep up
the good work! Jerry's cautions were good advice to the majority.

Bob

"T i m" <news@spaced.me.uk> wrote in message
news:5ru9v0t1v5k8ku3m6b22r0mg5pudqd6q6l@4ax.com...
On Mon, 24 Jan 2005 06:59:16 -0500, "Jerry G." <jerryg50@hotmail.com
wrote:

You just explained a classic example why it is important that you call a
properly trained and knowledgeable TV service person to do the repairs.

I have repaired (inc designed / built) nearly all my own gear since I
was 12. My first model boat / Xmas present consisted of a box of
plywood for the boat and several bags of components for the RC gear.
;-)
Rest of post deleted.
 
When I was in film making class (back when film making was done with FILM
not video equipment!), the more knowledgeable guys carried a little brush
and cleaned the film gate on the class projector before running their film
through the community machine.

--
darkroommike

----------
Interesting! BTW, it's a good idea to keep the gate clean as this is the
major source of film scratches.

N
 
On Mon, 24 Jan 2005 10:02:18 -0600, "Bob Shuman"
<reshuman@removethis.lucent.com> wrote:

Tim,

You did good.
Thanks for that Bob ;-)

No need to explain your actions or qualify yourself.
Well, I thought I better explain a bit of my background to demonstrate
that I wasn't completely new to the subject.

Keep up
the good work!
Thanks for that Bob ;-)

Jerry's cautions were good advice to the majority.
Indeed .. and I took them that way ;-)

All the best ..

T i m
 
"meterman" <jim@meder3.com> wrote in message
news:58fc75a1d4c1c4a01ae2ee9e986d0d5b@localhost.talkaboutelectronicequipment.com...
I have the same tv, and you're right it does not matter if I turn in on
with the remote or use the power button on the tv. One other odd item,
sometimes the tv will not turn on at all, when this happens if I press the
tv/video button on the tv it will power up only to shut down 3-4 minutes
later, come back on in a few minutes, shut off again in 3-4 minutes, then
it might stay on for hours.

any thought on what it might be other that previously stated. also, no one
really gave an opinion as to whether it was worth fixing as the cost of
TV's has gone down considerably in the past few years.

thanks,

meterman
Usually cold solder joints around the LOPT or power supply are the cause of
problems like this.
 
God Bless you, from a person that loves the LORD.
Vietnam Vet

<google_groups_001@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1106612889.094678.204520@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com...
http://www.free-hoster.com/goodnews << click link for the GOOD NEWS!
 
In <10vactesfmdjda4@corp.supernews.com> "Mike King" <mikeking@cableone.net> writes:

When I was in film making class (back when film making was done with FILM
not video equipment!)
Ummm... it still is.

By far, however, the most important part of making a film is
telling a story, not the equipment used.

--
Tim Mullen
------------------------------------------------------------------
Am I in your basement? Looking for antique televisions, fans, etc.
------ finger this account or call anytime: (212)-463-0552 -------
 
<google_groups_001@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1106612889.094678.204520@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com...

http://www.trinityfi.org/ << click link for even better NEWS!
 
"NSM" <nowrite@to.me> wrote in message news:ZykJd.2179$Ob.173@edtnps84...
google_groups_001@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1106612889.094678.204520@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com...

http://www.trinityfi.org/ << click link for even better NEWS!
Or www.fark.com for better news than that.
 
Even after the power is switched
off, and the set is unplugged from the AC mains, the main electrolytic
capacitors can still cause injury to someone probing around, and not knowing
what they are doing.
Don't forget substantial residual capacitance in a CRT picture tube on tube
based displays, which must be cleared by discharging to the DAG.

Or, just shove a screwdriver up the anode and be prepared to experience a most
painful form of static shock. - Reinhart
 
Go away you BPSOAB.

<google_groups_001@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1106612889.094678.204520@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com...
http://www.free-hoster.com/goodnews << click link for the GOOD NEWS!
 
"Techforce" <spam@linhax.com> writes:

Have seen this phenom before on a lot of electronic boards. I believe what
it is , is low quality solder. May appear to look ok under the mag lamp, but
only way to correct it is to remove the solder, and reflow with new solder.
Try doing that to the entire right channel components, first in the finals,
then in the pre amp. Since its a Radio Shack item, could be a rookie Tech
once operated on it, and used low quality solder.
Could be even though the soldering looks very good. But this isn't exactly
what you'd call a high-end component. :)

Only problem is with no schematic and no parts layout, finding it won't be
easy and resoldering the entire PCB isn't something I would look forward to.

Also, a remote possibility is a fractured leed on a transistor or other
component - while rare, usually you get a condition of full , to zero,
rather than what you describe , which is a more linear progression of change
from what I interpret.
Right, not likely.

Thanks.

--- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ Mirror: http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/
Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/REPAIR/
+Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ: http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/sam/lasersam.htm
| Mirror Sites: http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/REPAIR/F_mirror.html

Note: These links are hopefully temporary until we can sort out the excessive
traffic on Repairfaq.org.

Important: Anything sent to the email address in the message header above is
ignored unless my full name is included in the subject line. Or, you can
contact me via the Feedback Form in the FAQs.
 
Hi Tim, thanks for the reply- there is no problem getting in there, I have
replaced the transformer and output trannies, renewed traces and even added
extra speaker ports on the back thru the years, just it would be nice to
have the pots back working again.

Has switch cleaner got better lately tho? I did try some of that on a couple
of scratchy pots I had 10 years ago, it lasted a short while but the
scratching came back with a vengeance after a while so I deemed it a false
hope and never used any since.

Ad



"Tim Schwartz" <toschwartz@worldnet.att.net> wrote in message
news:41F504F3.5FAA67AD@worldnet.att.net...
MAD,

FIRST: UNPLUG THE AMP WHEN DOING ANY OF THE FOLLOWING!

There is a good chance that the pots will clean up with a decent
cleaning/lube spray. I like Caig Labs DeoxIT (tm) D5, part number
D5S-6. This will require you to open the amp up, as the spray needs to
get into the working part of the pot, the the front shaft bearing. If
the unit is really filthy with dust/dirt on the inside, then consider
blasting it out with compressed air, or careful use of a vacuum cleaner.

The input selector switch may clean up with a spraying as well. In
both cases, use a small amount of spray and work the controls back and
forth many times. DO NOT flood the controls with the stuff! I'm a full
time tech, working on several items a day and a can of this stuff lasts
me at least 6 months, literally hundreds of switches and controls.
DON'T use it on power switches, as it is flammable! Too little is better
than too much. There are many other spray products out there that are
also fine. Read the label!

As to the broken shaft on the input knob, you can usually cut a small
piece of wood to act as a filler for the missing half. If you need to
glue it in, use a glue that can be removed such as rubber cement or
contact cement so that it can be taken apart if needed for service. As
long as you are gentle when turning the know, it can last for years.

Regards,
Tim Schwartz
Bristol Electronics



Mad Ad wrote:

I have an old Marantz PM310 amplifier with all 3 rotary knobs shot, the
volume, balance and the 3 position click switch.

The vol/bal both have the usual 'microphone swung in the wind' sound of
crackling and rustling when you turn them and the 3 position switch has
one
spline of the 2 broken so the knob falls off and the contacts are shot
anyway because you have to fiddle with it to get it to work on both
channels
at once.

Otherwise the amplifier is in fine condition, its has a few bits
resoldered
and renewed over the years but is still giving stirling service as my
main
amp for PC/TV/Music output, except I have to use it via a mixer because
all
the Marantz controls are so bad.

Im guessing that im SOL trying to find replacement controls for it now?
That
3 position switch looks extremely proprietary and the 2 rotaries are
mounted
in a way that using standard vr pots would not work. The shank is metal
and
much thinner than nylon replacents.

Any ideas please anyone? The unit still has years of life in it, its
just id
like to access the controls without it sounding like a force 10 gale in
the
room.

Thanks a lot

Ad
 
JURB6006 wrote:

What's more I want to figure out how to continue to post in my own name. For
better or worse I'm not a name changer. By that I mean those of you who are
familiar with me know my technical ability, but also my arrogance at times, and
my politically incorrect views.
I don't know how AOL behaves with third party news servers, but you
could try registering from *free* access to the news.individual.net
news server:
http://www.news.individual.net/index.html
and set up outlook, thunderbird or whatever.
You will require a valid email address to register, so of course you can
use the one you currently have.

I use this server for text groups because my own ISP's server is
somewhat unreliable.

Lee
--
Email address is valid, but is unlikely to be read.
 
I'm using a text based news reader (tin) from my ISP. They happen to give
me a Linux shell. I subscribe to flashnewsgroups.com text only service
for about five bucks/month and that way, I can use threading and keep track
of what I've already read vs. using a web based newsreader (which don't tend
to have those functions). I can also rlogin to their server from anywhere
(even through firewalls) and read news. Works great. My GF has AOL and as
others have mentioned, they are a pretty bad ISP and tend to cater to the
technologically inept (my grandmother loves them). There are *so many* good
ISPs out there that I wonder why people continue w/AOL.

My ISP also dumped Usenet because out of over a thousand users, only
two read news via Usenet. It cost them about 200/month for their
service. However, they were nice about it and reduced my monthly fee
to compensate for my cost of the news service. I must say they have
earned my respect with that move.

barry
 
I've just been informed that AOL intends to
discontinue their news group service for their
"dial-up" customers (which is a majority). This
little trick doesn't surprise me.
If AOL says you don't need newsgroups, then you don't need newsgroups.
End of discussion.

It's going to be kinda quiet around here though...

Actually, I believe SBC DSL is the best bargain for your dollar.
$26.95 per month for broadband internet access; I think AOL charges
almost that much for dial-up service

Alan Harriman
 
"Mark D. Zacharias" <mzacharias@yis.us> writes:

I've seen dirty record / play mode switches cause this (I'm assuming this is
a cassette deck).
Yeah, I wiggled and cycled that with no effect.

I believe it may be one particular dirty or bad pot and have resoldered it.
I'm keeping my fingers cross. Definitely pushing on its terminals made a
difference. Not positive if that was the primary cause or just affecting
something else.

I hate intermittents. :( :)

Thanks.

--- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ Mirror: http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/
Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/REPAIR/
+Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ: http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/sam/lasersam.htm
| Mirror Sites: http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/REPAIR/F_mirror.html

Note: These links are hopefully temporary until we can sort out the excessive
traffic on Repairfaq.org.

Important: Anything sent to the email address in the message header above is
ignored unless my full name is included in the subject line. Or, you can
contact me via the Feedback Form in the FAQs.
 

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