Toshiba TV29C90 problem; Image fades to black...

[s falke]

"Wayne R." <wruffner@KomKast.net> wrote...

...I can't begin to believe that one-flavor
polyester cord is 'omnipotent' in the face of all the yuk and
harshness the world offers. What other materials are there?
...

Has anyone mentioned not to chew on black-striped lacing cord? It is supposed
to be rat-poison "enhanced."

—s falke

 

[JURB6006]

Believe it or not I thought I was going nuts. I swear I posted it but it never
showed up on my AOL NG reader. I read your response through Google (yik). They
really screwed it up, I agree with the others in here about that, but if not
for Google I would've never known about your reply. If it keeps up I'll call
AOL. I'd leave them but I'm actually using their seperate favorites and cookies
etc., associated with each name.

I DLed the VZ9 print from Mits. They no longer have the VZ8 online.

Anyway, thanks, that's exactly what I forgot, 3diamonds.com. Damn, I remember
the username and password but not the site, what a trip. Now all I gotta do is
the same for Hitachi, they assign you a username, I know the password but not
the name. This is all because of spyware, the cookies went out with the bad
bads.

Now with this AOL problem I wonder how many more responses I've gotten and
never saw.

Thanks again buddy.

JURB

 

Wayne R. wrote:

TyWraps:

Cons:
Traditionalists don't like it
Shouldn't do it without the right tool
Wrong tension settings can damage jackets/guts
Cut ends on floor are slippery

You forgot a couple of biggies on the cons of TyWraps

1. They are not compatable with any fuels or lubricants or hydraulic
fluids.

2. They do not survive well in enviroments that are high vibration or
those that see very low temps or temps over 100F.

3. They do not age well. They start getting brittle within a couple of
years unless they are in a stable office type enviroment.

4. They are totally incompatable with any small fiber F/O system. THey
either crush the fiber on install or provide a nice sharp edge for the
fiber to fracture against.

5. Cost....My one roll of lacing cord will do the same amount of cable
as several thousand TyWraps.

6. Work areas....I can do my ties in locations that you couldn't begin
to get a TyWrap gun into.

7. Lacing cord is a one size does it all. With TyWraps you have to size
them for the bundle size and tension that you need at each location.
Craig C.
cvairwerks@ev1.net

 

[doug]

They're all 82 ohms.

 

[Brian Boorman]

On the 97 Blazer & Jimmy, the fuel pump relay is inside the glove box
behind a cover on the upper-left corner. On my 97 Jimmy, there are
three relays. The left-most is the fuel-pump relay and the right-most
is the daytime running lights relay. Not sure what the third one is.

I am sure by now (two months later) you have figured this out, but
since I had the same difficulty, now it is here for others to find.

I am now getting ready to drop the tank to figure out if there is juice
to the pump itself. $300 for a pump - ouch!

-Brian

JURB6006 wrote:

Hi;

Thanks again for the help regarding the transmission. Your replies
helped us
prevent the tranny guy from sucking about $1000 out of our pocket.
Turned out
to be the 3-2 shift "assembly" whatever that exactly means.

Anyway, now it won't start. Cranks fine and has spark but no fuel.
There are
three relays I can see under the hood. Does anyone know which one is
the fuel
pump relay ?, or if it is in an alternate location ? None of these
three click
when the ign is turned on. I've been looking around the web just for
a simple
pictorial of the underhood components and can't seem to find one
after an hour
of Googling.

I'm leaning away from the pump itself because there were absolutely
no problems
with engine performance, it ran like a raped ape. It kept it up after
a long
run too, after the tranny was fixed of course.

From what I've been reading I'll need to find the ECM2 fuse and said
relay to
troubleshoot this. Even the location of the fuel pump test terminal
would help.
I considered even testing at the oil pressure sending unit, but I'm
pretty sure
that'll be hard to do, this thing is pretty cramped.

From what I've gleaned from the web it could even be the ignition
switch,
something I'll not rule out yet because this was a shut it off and no
restart
situation. Had to get a tow.

Anyway, I am familiar with how the modern fuel system works so I
don't need a
tutorial on it, what I need is specific info. I realize the relay I
seek could
be under the dash, in the glove box or who knows, in these newer cars
it could
be in the frickin steering column (a little joke).

Actually I was wondering if there is indeed a better forum for such
questions.
I've kicked around in some other groups that seem related to this
type of
question, but none seem to be so fast moving or responsive as SER. In
fact I
don't seem to see a NG with participants with the depth and breadth
of
knowledge expressed here. I actually Googled "groups" and couldn't
find what I
need. I even Googled "images" and got nothing, just a picture with
pointers,
like that in a Haynes book would do the trick. Not to be found.

Thanks in advance.

JURB

 

[NSM]

"N Cook" <diverse2@tcp.co.antyspahm.uk> wrote in message
newsM6dnblilOcdlXHcRVn-qg@tcp.co.uk...

| Centred and turned down the commutator. On checking for
| bridges discovered there must be a break in one of the rotor coils.
| Must have disturbed it in turning. Traced which coil and it connects
| with the errant commutator segment.

Somehow that sounds like it's a clue. A good book on AC/DC motors would be
my guide here.

N

 

[vaz]

http://cgi.ebay.ca/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=5744941140&ssPageName=STRK:MESE:IT

 

[vytasb]

Hi, (jumping in on the thread-)
I have the same machine, same problem. So I bought a drive belt, now the
question is how do you get the darn belt on the easiest way? Do you have
to unscrew the transport mechanism from the chassis? Without undoing
something, it's a closed system and you can't get the belt around the
flywheel.

Veet

 

Most of the stuff that I use doesn't seem to care if it is awash in jet
fuel, 5606, diesel fuel, Hydrazine or anything else.

As to time, I can generally have my tie run and be tightening it by the
time you have selected the correct TyWrap to use.
Craig C.
cvairwerks@ev1.net

 

[Asimov]

"vytasb" bravely wrote to "All" (17 Jan 05 17:39:40)
--- on the heady topic of "Re: Sony TC-FX220 Cassette Deck - Flutter"

vy> From: "vytasb" <vytasb@excite.com>
vy> Xref: aeinews sci.electronics.repair:7543

vy> Hi, (jumping in on the thread-)
vy> I have the same machine, same problem. So I bought a drive belt, now
vy> the question is how do you get the darn belt on the easiest way? Do you
vy> have to unscrew the transport mechanism from the chassis? Without
vy> undoing something, it's a closed system and you can't get the belt
vy> around the flywheel.

Veet, on some decks the flywheel mount must be unscrewed to let the
belt through. It is easy to smear the drive belt with oil or grease so
it must be cleaned before use.

A*s*i*m*o*v

.... If all else fails, hurl it across the room a few times!

 

[Mark D. Zacharias]

If it's the mech I'm thinking of, it's a BIG job to replace a small lever
which has a tab broken, to which a spring was attached. I have been REDUCED
to about 70.00 for this job. I know it's a lot, but there was a time when it
would have been more.

Mark Z.


"Llurker" <no_reply@null.com> wrote in message
news:41ecc57c$0$49066$39cecf19@news.twtelecom.net...

I have a JVC HR-VP644U VCR (couldn't find any online manuals or database
entries for it) which has the following problem: Once a tape is in,
everything works fine. However, the tape won't eject if it's in, and if
it's out, the VCR doesn't recognize when I feed it one. If the tape is
(manually) loaded and I press eject, the tape will unload, pause, reload to
play position, and then turn off. I can turn the VCR on and use it just
fine. I have opened the machine up and can't find anything obviously
wrong--no broken pieces, dry belts, broken teeth, etc. I notice that the
switch on the side of the cassette carriage which is activated when I load
a tape doesn't seem to do anything, but I can't prove that it's broken.

Can anyone suggest a likely cause, mechanical or electronic? Would a new
cassette carriage likely fix this? After a lot of looking around and etc,
I wonder if there might be a catch in the portion of the idler mechanism
that is supposed to unload the tape. I can manually cycle the tape in and
out, but when I press the eject button, I wonder if the second half of the
eject action is either not getting triggered, or is not engaging.

Many thanks in advance.
dmn

 

In sci.electronics.repair Bee <in.my.bonnet@shangri-la.com> wrote:

Make up your mind. You have now shifted from poor design to inferior
manufacturing standards. "Cut corners" is what you are now singing.

They go hand-in-hand in most cheap stuff.

component. Solid state components last forever. Transformers and

They don't.

condensers (nowadays also solid state) change parameters over time (minimal

Nowadays??? Electrolytics still have fluids, and transformers never
changed design in a major way.

in solid state components) initially but remain stable thereafter.

They won't. Electrolytics dry out, faster so in a poorly designed
apparatus. Also cheaper electrolytics will have less tolerance for avuse
or even for use.

apply to all whether big name or no name manufacturer. All are in the same
boat. Cutting corner in the selection of components is meaningless.

Admittedly, Philips made a mistake buying cheap power switches from
Stelvio that don't last too long and can cause spectacular shorts, but
the really cheap brands do this all the time as well.

Television is a mature product. The design is standard. Any refinement, if
indeed desired (different manufacturer have different perception) by the
consumers, will be implemented as a priority. The alterations virtually
cost nothing. When one implementation is warmly received by the public,
every other manufacturers follow suit. Unlike computer software, there is
no secret proprietary circuit design (there are too many equally good ways
to accomplish the same task). Research? Whatever the new fashion of
outward cosmetic is, yes; otherwise, no. A flatter screen, a shorter tube,
a more brilliant phosphorus... or whatever else (I'm referring to a radical
change of direction here) have all been done and finished with. The money
is now on solid state panels.

I agree with you that there is not too much new development in
traditional TV design, but your lack of understandig the aspects of
different technical designs and implementations of those designs, do
indicate you don't have a relevant electronical background. You should
gain some more experience in the design AND repair business before
judging technical stuff from a consumer point of view. Otherwise you're
better off juding stuff only by the features and price, as most
consumer magazines have traditionally done and still do.

Cutting corners is a vague vernacular. The off hand treatment of Turkish or
Chinese chassis exposed your prejudice, not evidence in support of your
argument. Why has JVC taken an unknown manufacturer for the innards of its
14" model?

Because it is cheap. Nowadays it seems every 4:3 JVC TV-set is made by
Vestel of Turkey. They can only afford to manufacture more expensive
models themselves, nowadays. Statistically, Onwa sets have always been
more vulnerable to defects (anyone remember the 2 small caps in
virtually every related design (not only Onwa but also a few more
standard designs that are virtually the same) that always loose capacity
after a few years and cause damage through overvoltage?). I do see
Vestel chassis with various defects as well. A friend bought a 28"
Vestel JVC set, of which the power supply crapped out after only a few
weeks. It was replaced under warrantee, so I have not analysed the
defect, but chances are that costs were cut a bit too much.

All electronic equipment nowadays are remarkably reliable and should last
forever (the critical components being minerals in sand) save a replacement
of mechanical parts. If the equipment works without fault in the first
couple of months, if not in the first hour, then there should not be any
problem from then on. Well....until the time comes when an 'upgrade' is too
tempting to be ignored.

This was true for most solid state equipment from the eighties and
nineties, except maybe some really cheap stuff (*). It is not anymore.
Main cause: demand from the public for cheap stuff. You can't expect
premium and long lasting performance for low cost.

(*) Yes, even Philips made a crappy design in the early nineties (G90B
chassis), and this was French, not even Turkish


Met vriendelijke groet,

Maarten Bakker.

 

Hello. I work in a library that has a 7315 reader. It died several
weeks ago and I have been having a hard time finding information on
repairing it. If you still have the documentation please send me a
copy.

Thanks.


rkerr188 wrote:

I found the documentation for the Kurzweil unit. Thank you for your
help!

rkerr@ptsi.net (rkerr188) wrote in message
news:<ab377a3d.0212191228.7dc93d11@posting.google.com>...
I am looking for documentation for the Xerox Kurzweil Reader Model
7315. Our Lions Club purchased this unit for our local library
several
years ago, and now we are going to move it to a Seniors home.
Unfortunately, the documentation is missing and none of the current
Lions members know how to work the unit. Any help will be greatly
appreciated!

 

[Rono]

The varistors will "short" in the event of a voltage
spike, to protect the circuitry beyond it! Have you
measured the transrormer to ensure it matches in
impedence? Also, use a Comparator Scope to check
each active component like IC's, transistors, & diodes!
The Comparator Scope compares to a "known good"
unit! Rono.

 

[Dave_s]

Hi Rono,

Rono wrote:

The varistors will "short" in the event of a voltage
spike, to protect the circuitry beyond it!

This varistor is in series with the fuse and incoming AC line and the
bridge rectifier that makes 300VDC. I'm still not understanding how the
varistor behaves during a voltage spike on input 115vac.

Can you clarify?
Thank you, Dave_s
Have you

measured the transrormer to ensure it matches in
impedence? Also, use a Comparator Scope to check
each active component like IC's, transistors, & diodes!
The Comparator Scope compares to a "known good"
unit! Rono.

 

Llurker wrote:

I have a JVC HR-VP644U VCR (couldn't find any online manuals or
database
entries for it) which has the following problem: Once a tape is in,
everything works fine. However, the tape won't eject if it's in, and
if
it's out, the VCR doesn't recognize when I feed it one. If the tape
is
(manually) loaded and I press eject, the tape will unload, pause,
reload to
play position, and then turn off. I can turn the VCR on and use it
just
fine. I have opened the machine up and can't find anything obviously

wrong--no broken pieces, dry belts, broken teeth, etc. I notice that
the
switch on the side of the cassette carriage which is activated when I
load a
tape doesn't seem to do anything, but I can't prove that it's broken.

Can anyone suggest a likely cause, mechanical or electronic? Would a
new
cassette carriage likely fix this? After a lot of looking around and
etc, I
wonder if there might be a catch in the portion of the idler
mechanism that
is supposed to unload the tape. I can manually cycle the tape in and
out,
but when I press the eject button, I wonder if the second half of the
eject
action is either not getting triggered, or is not engaging.

Many thanks in advance.
dmn

 

Update

The light sensor that manages the rotating carousel works much better
if it the DVD changer case is closed vs having the case open and a 500
watt light above it.

I realized that shortly after I posed the question. Once the cover was
back in place, the changer's functionality returned to normal.

 

[Franc Zabkar]

On Tue, 18 Jan 2005 07:24:57 -0800, Dave_s <group78@dslextreme.com>
put finger to keyboard and composed:

This varistor is in series with the fuse and incoming AC line and the
bridge rectifier that makes 300VDC. I'm still not understanding how the
varistor behaves during a voltage spike on input 115vac.

It's probably an NTC resistor to limit the inrush current. SL = Surge
Limiter.

See http://www.ametherm.com/Inrush_Current/Standard_SL_Data.htm


- Franc Zabkar
--
Please remove one 's' from my address when replying by email.

 

[Mark]

On Thu, 13 Jan 2005 12:28:05 -0500, "default@uri.edu" <default@uri.edu> wrote:

And it's not like it's stray x-rays, it's just radio
waves.

RF can burn you. If you held on to a metal antenna that was pushing 100W
through it on VHF, you'd feel it...

Granted a microwave is pushing far less and at the opposite end of the
practical RF band, but this falls in to the same category about people who are
worried they'll get brain cancer from using cell phones. We won't know for
another 20 years on that one.

Are there any reports of people getting cancer from microwaves? I don't
recall any. They've been around for 15-20 years mainstream.

 

[elfe111]

Hi ibbotsnm

have or had the same Problem with my M50

does anyone have an idea how to align those 3 trays?

The most likely way is: tray 3 is in the turntable and the mechanism is
down
tray 2 is above tray 1 - both in the front part of the drawer

these trays have to be bent a lot if you reinsert them into the drawer, so
that the teeth on the one side, do not turn the teeth on the rotating
mechanism or rather move them into an unwanted position. The mechanism is
on that side where the teeth on the trays are.
I have managed to open and close all trays but getting the tray 3 out of
the turntabel still causes problems with tray 2 - hope to solve this by
ading some grease or oil to the mechanism



have luck

Richard

Richard