Toshiba TV29C90 problem; Image fades to black...

On 2 Mar 2005 14:36:31 -0800, "trippingtoo8track"
<trippingtoo8track@yahoo.com> wrote:

http://cgi.ebay <destroying fraud link

use buy it now <snip
....and get screwed by one of ebay's biggest shams!

FRAUD ALERT: This clown, Charlie Nudo of Drums, PA, aka
trippingtoo8track@yahoo.com, aka UNIVERSAL MIND on "goo goo groopz",
aka 66fourdoor on ebay, is a well documented fraudster and con artist.
He has perpetrated many a scam on ebay while "buying" good feedback.
Many times, he'll "curb" an auction (sell it illegally out of auction)
when he thinks he might get stung by bad feedback. He defrauded me
not just once, but twice under two different names. Protect
yourself...avoid this moron's scams and frauds, and kill file his
prodigeous spamming attempts.

This particular item is a "retread"...sold it once, evidently the
buyer was unhappy, so now he's looking to pick YOUR wallet.

Clean up Usenet...give spam/scam trolls the boot!
 
Jim Thompson wrote:

On Sat, 05 Mar 2005 18:33:32 GMT, "NSM" <nowrite@to.me> wrote:


"Andy" <andy4046@ntlworld.com> wrote in message
news:LuiWd.263$hx4.144@newsfe1-gui.ntli.net...

Sometimes there are two ,where one set takes the first high current ,then
the other set assure there is a true connection.

The picture doesn't imply this. I suspect they don't want to run current
through the second pair.

N



Perhaps the second pair of contacts make a momentary connection during
the initial closure, then spring back?

...Jim Thompson
that is exactly what i suggested also.
i have seen that config before used as a peek and hold relay.
 
Thanks for the great information! From a Google search I found the
information in this thread I needed to repair my Sony KV-20TS30 TV
which suddenly developed color gradients in an oval pattern. My
problem was just as described here: the THP601 thermistor (black
1/2x5/8 inch component next to where the degaussing coil plugs into the
main circuit board) had no solder left on the center pin. I could also
wiggle the lead. Turning the set upside down and applying solder got
the set working again.

Terry wrote:
Sony tv color reversal: SUCCESS!!!!
This MADE my week! I'm a hero in the extended family! Wednesday
night I finally brought home my soldering equipment (not too much
call
for soldering DB25s in these days of the 100MBit office anyway!),
pulled the back cover, turned the whole set upside down and confirmed
all the hints from you guys:
The degauss wires were indeed covered with black tape. The circuit
traces went from those wires directly to one of the black boxes which
did indeed have 3 pins (I had to shine my bright light *through* the
circuit board to see this clearly - might be a good hint for
beginners
in the future)...and LowAndBehold, one of the pins was NOT SOLDERED
ANYMORE (guess how excited I was) It was not burned looking in the
least, just no longer soldered and in fact I could gently wiggle it
and feel that it was not solidly connected. I then KNEW you were
right.

I fired up my iron, used the hot iron itself to clean up the pin and
hole and gave it a nice quick small flow of fresh solder. I kept
wanting this to be more difficult... but I just closed the tv back
up,
plugged it in, turned it on and there to the shocked amazement of my
family was a PERFECT COLOR PICTURE! Total Cost: a few good
descriptions to this group and a speck of solder. You guys are
Great!
I'm going to re-visit the crippled stereo equip in my lower room now!

Final Hindsight data: The component was marked "THP601" on the
circuit board (I decided this must mean "Positive" acting
"THermistor"
or "Posister" as Sam mentioned and an electronics friend said meant
just the opposite direction for the voltage or the temperature.)

Terry
 
For more than a year I was searching the Internat for an obsolete
IC that's used in a Motorola S1344AAB Frequency Counter/Auto Tune
Deviation Meter. The Motorola part number 51-80329A60 is actually
a DM85L52 manufactuerd by National Semiconductor (the IC is
stamped 528 055178). I was able to get the data sheet from a
friend that had an old NS data book from the early 80's. The
part is a decade counter/latch with tristate outputs and will
cause readout or counting problems or an incorrect frequency
display. The counter also uses a DM85L51 that crosses to a
74LS173.


In the early 70's the unit was Manufactured by Systron Donner for
Motorola. Systron Donner's model number was SLN6407A-75. They also
manufactured a frequency counter model 6252 that's identical to the
counter section of the 1344AAB. Other SD frequency
counters, like the 6250 or 6202 use the same part.


If your looking for that part and you don't want to spend hundreds
of dollars buying a minimum quantity from a surplus dealer, Look
for any of the above SD models on Ebay. If your lucky and get one
for about $25, cannibalize it for parts.


Jack
WA9FVP
 
For more than a year I was searching the Internat for an obsolete
IC that's used in a Motorola S1344AAB Frequency Counter/Auto Tune
Deviation Meter. The Motorola part number 51-80329A60 is actually
a DM85L52 manufactuerd by National Semiconductor (the IC is
stamped 528 055178). I was able to get the data sheet from a
friend that had an old NS data book from the early 80's. The
part is a decade counter/latch with tristate outputs and will
cause readout or counting problems or an incorrect frequency
display. The counter also uses a DM85L51 that crosses to a
74LS173.


In the early 70's the unit was Manufactured by Systron Donner for
Motorola. Systron Donner's model number was SLN6407A-75. They also
manufactured a frequency counter model 6252 that's identical to the
counter section of the 1344AAB. Other SD frequency
counters, like the 6250 or 6202 use the same part.


If your looking for that part and you don't want to spend hundreds
of dollars buying a minimum quantity from a surplus dealer, Look
for any of the above SD models on Ebay. If your lucky and get one
for about $25, cannibalize it for parts.


Jack
WA9FVP
 
For more than a year I was searching the Internat for an obsolete
IC that's used in a Motorola S1344AAB Frequency Counter/Auto Tune
Deviation Meter. The Motorola part number 51-80329A60 is actually
a DM85L52 manufactuerd by National Semiconductor (the IC is
stamped 528 055178). I was able to get the data sheet from a
friend that had an old NS data book from the early 80's. The
part is a decade counter/latch with tristate outputs and will
cause readout or counting problems or an incorrect frequency
display. The counter also uses a DM85L51 that crosses to a
74LS173.


In the early 70's the unit was Manufactured by Systron Donner for
Motorola. Systron Donner's model number was SLN6407A-75. They also
manufactured a frequency counter model 6252 that's identical to the
counter section of the 1344AAB. Other SD frequency
counters, like the 6250 or 6202 use the same part.


If your looking for that part and you don't want to spend hundreds
of dollars buying a minimum quantity from a surplus dealer, Look
for any of the above SD models on Ebay. If your lucky and get one
for about $25, cannibalize it for parts.


Jack
WA9FVP
 
Stevie Boy wrote:
My favourite nonsense was how putting an amplifier on a big solid
slab of
granite made a "vast improvement to the sound".
I can see how that would work on a turntable , but on an amp?!?!?!


Is it nonsense? All components are subject to microphony and any
poorly
mounted pcb's in a *bendy* light weight case can cause vibrations.
??
Explain. that is a vast generalization, what pieces of
vibration-generating equipment are you referring to? Amplifiers? In
themselves, pcbs don't cause any significant vibration I 've ever heard
of.

These
vibrations effect the workings of the components
whoa there, are you talking about pcb componets in amps, or mechanics
as in turntables, tape decks, etc?

and interact with the
signal thereby smearing and colouring the sound causing some
confusion in
the final output.
????
how the F&%$ can these unknown ' vibrations' affect solid state
circuitry and components like, say, ICs transistors and electrolyic
capacitors?

It seems to me you know nothing of electronics, and instead have
basically spewed out the contents of some 'audiophool' marketing
brochure aimed at gullible yuppies.

By mounting on a granite slab or some other means of
damping/isolation from microphony these undesirable effects are
vastly
diminished.
In some cases (read : turntables and cd players): yes. In others:
perhaps. In cases of sold state non mechanical items, NO.

regards, Ben
 
Sorry for omitting all the info, but the reason is that the tv has been
chucked away, still I wanted to know what it could have been.
The engineer had one look at it and said it was not worth fixing,
he didn't even open it, seems he new what it was straight away.

It was a 25" Panasonic, but I don't know what model it was. One
day we switched it on with the remote and only the sound started,
i.e. no picture. That's it, no picture was ever visible from then on,
the screen was exactly as if the unit was off, no partial brightness
or near the corners, just absolutly dead, as if no power was on.

But this is all academic :) , so feel free not to waste your time too
much...

tnx.
 
Not Hall effect, since there is no magnet involved. Most likely
something about (or some part of) the rubber is conductive - silicon
rubber can be made conductive. Perhaps the degree of conduction changes
when the rubber is squished.

It is also possible that it is capacitive sensing - the layers form a
capacitor, whose value changes when the rubber is deformed to bring the
conductors closer together. Sounds pretty elaborate, though.

Bill
---------------------------
DaveC wrote:

Underlying the key mechanisms is a double-sided film with concentric circuit
pads (for each key) on either side of the film. The key cap pushes down a
little inverted cone of what looks like silicone rubber to touch the film.

This isn't a contact switch; the top of the film has just one pad, as does
the bottom of the film; no electrical connection is being made.

Is this hall effect? I can't see anything on the end of the cone, unless
there's something impregnated in it.

The connector to the motherboard is a 40-pin flexible mylar cable.

What technology is used in this kind of keyboard? With 40-pins going
off-board, I presume all matrix processing is done on the motherboard?

Google didn't turn up any in-depth descriptions of keyboard technology.

Thanks,
 
I restored a 1948 Mantola and used 3 individual electrolytics to
replace the multi-section can. One problem though -- the new
capacitors almost wouldn't fit under the chassis. I had to use kevlar
tape to insulate the cans from the other component leads.

Quote from Asimov:
Just a comment I heard the expert on Antiques Roadshow explain that
the integrity of the internal circuits on old equipment has no
bearing whatsoever on value.
That's good to know! I keep watch on the "book" value of this radio.
 
"AshTray700" <ashtray700@aol.com> wrote in message
news:284bba7889407fc347bac2e8099b70f2@localhost.talkaboutelectronicequipment.com...
im not sure which design you have, some are three layers of plastic the
middle one containing holes when key pushed it makes the outer two layers
connect, what i think you have is the type that is in alot of things these
days.
my only knowledge of hall effect is in automobiles and if im right i think
there is a sensor that picks up on the magnetism, but yours i think has
the interwoven copper tracings on the board/film and the little rubber pad
has some sort of black disk underneath it, when the disk touches the
coppertracings it completes the circut, how it works im not sure, but
there is no processor needed to detect the signal, you could feed an led
lamp of off it and it would receive a weakend current through it, maybe
that pad is some sort of conductor
Hall Effect sensors are used all over, as you suspect they respond to a
magnetic field. I've seen keyboard switches that use them but I have yet to
actually encounter a computer keyboard with that design. They are commonly
used as the ignition pickup as well.
 
Yes, this product has already been developed and works well for
instance at:
estruction.com and educue.com. I would prefer to develop my own system
to keep the cost down. Heterodyning! That sounds good. Do you think
the transmitters and receivers on this website would do it for
me?http://www.automicro.com.tw
Which ones should I order as samples? Thanks again for any info.


CJT wrote:
NSM wrote:
"Asimov" <Asimov@-removethis-bbs.juxtaposition.dynip.com> wrote in
message
news:MSGID_1=3a167=2f133.0_4253ee3b@fidonet.org...


Thinking about a bunch of RF transmitters all heterodyning in the
same

room, shades of Theremin!

Think about dealing with line of sight issues.

It's been tried and works great.

--
The e-mail address in our reply-to line is reversed in an attempt to
minimize spam. Our true address is of the form che...@prodigy.net.
 
On Thursday, 07 Apr 2005 22:42:18 -500, "Asimov"
<Asimov@-removethis-bbs.juxtaposition.dynip.com> wrote:

Just a comment I heard the expert on Antiques Roadshow explain that
the integrity of the internal circuits on old equipment has no bearing
whatsoever on value. The real value is in the esthetic cosmetic appeal
and especially the rarity. If it actually operates is only incidental
and nice to know. So I totally agee that it is okay to replace any
defective electros with modern ones.
ah.. I'd think that's completely opposite to what the roadshow guy was
trying to get across. The value is the original state.

Working or NOT.

Fixing it (changing it) to make it work will destroy the original
antique value.

You don't re-blue an old gun.
 
"They used to toast Luckies. I can't see how that could hurt?"

Was that before Lucky Strike green went to war?
 
It's got nothing to do with lit and let live. I'm quite happy for him
to live with these views, it doesn't affect me either way but I do
reserve the right to find it immensely funny :)
 
<RonGrossi382589@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1113623302.203937.60490@g14g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
The reason some people don't know for sure
if they are going to Heaven when they die
is because they just don't know.

That should really help to eliminate those blue screens of death.
 
Lemme tell you something buddy, not only are you a waste of our time,
you also insult those who don't agree with your brainwashed state by
dismissing our views and other theologies summarily. I tried
Christianity and found it to be too contradicive of itself.

I am insulted by the fact that you are sure you are right about all
this nonsense, so let me return the favor, unlike normal Christians,
you are an idiot. Let me tell you, when you die you are dead. When Fred
Jones dies there is no more Fred jones, got it
? Fred is NOT standing in front of anybody answering to anybody about
anything from a parking ticket to child molestation. Hard to swallow ?
GREAT !

You read a book and you think you know it all, well let me tell you I
can write a book too, speaking of which explain to me why not one word
of any part of the Bible was written by Jesus, what, was he illiterate?
Also you stoopid people also think that Mary, married to a strapping
carpenter, was not getting any. "Yes dear I want to marry you but in a
few years I will give birth to a virgin child, so you don't get ant
sex" YEA RIGHT.

I would have never responded, but you kept it up, and kept it up.
Because of IDIOTS like you I won't even listen to an argument for
Christianity. How's THAT grab you ? What you have done is actually
counterproductive if you want new sheeple. You people make me sick.
Yes, accept that the supposedly MOST IMPORTANT BOOK IN THE WORLD is
chock full of contradictions, in fact it is all contradictions. And WHO
THE FUCK IS KING JAMES AND WHAT THE FUCK DOES HE HAVE TO DO WITH BIBLES
?

From what I can glean from this morass of bullshit is that Joshua BAR
Joseph was a great man, tough as hell, he once threw how many, 50
people out of the Temple. Walking on water I can only assume he was a
good swimmer. As far as disappearing from His tomb, He really wasn't
dead because he was alot tougher than they all thought. If Christianity
is really the way, and true, YOU sir have done it a great disservice,
and are therefore in the service of "El Diablo". Thank your great
brainwashers for that, for without a "clean" brain you'd never be
convinced of this shit, not less spew it like the shit in "fecal japan"
(still available via Google image search, a site in Germany has it).

QUIT ALIENATING PEOPLE WITH THIS SHIT, or I swear to my God, who is
your God's God, that I will actively persue ways to shut you down. I
used to wonder why people wrote virii and spyware, but no more. I wont
do it to you because you didn't do it to me, but I'd like to see your
computer billowing smoke so that you stop. You may ask how can I be
moral like that without being a Christian ? WELL ASSHOLE you DO NOT
HAVE A MONOPOLY ON MORALITY. Others have done it BEFORE AND BETTER THAN
CHRISTIANITY. Surprise surpise.

The Christian friends I have all have a bit of that evangelical streak,
it's part and parcel of it, but they stop when they are told. Consider
yourself told. BTW you CAN'T get to me with the software set I'm
runnning, but I know who you are.

Realistically, I don't really mind your evangelical efforts, say once a
month or so, possibly more often around Chrismas etc., but you went
overboard. You got me musing that you were recently released from a
mental hospital. Is that what you want His followers to think ?

JURB
 

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