Toshiba TV29C90 problem; Image fades to black...

[b]

David FitzGerald wrote:

Richard Colton wrote:
"b" <reverend_rogers@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1118840491.065062.300590@g47g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...

get a DECENT tech to look at it, dont get a call out, take it in
somewhere.

Now that IS good advice.

If only I knew of one... without a reccomendation, how does one know
who is good or not? The guy I had over (Ł20) seemed to know his stuff
and reckons it is uneconomical to repair.

Turns out I ought to be covered on my household insurance, though.
Still, I'd lov to get it repaired - but by whom?

D.

David, thought this might interest you, (tho' bear in mind most those
in the thread are from the US or Oz) -B.

http://groups-beta.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/browse_frm/thread/df2dc98f85c6f711/eb11a6d7e9dadf50?q=technicians&rnum=4&hl=en#eb11a6d7e9dadf50

 

[Floyd L. Davidson]

keith <krw@att.bizzzz> wrote:

On Thu, 16 Jun 2005 14:08:59 -0800, Floyd L. Davidson wrote:

Winfield Hill <hill_a@t_rowland-dotties-harvard-dot.s-edu> wrote:
John Fields wrote...
Floyd L. Davidson wrote:
John Fields wrote:
Floyd L. Davidson wrote:

The idea that water boils at 100C and freezes at 0C, without
some mention of pressure, has little meaning. Water can "boil"
at 0C too.

Since, by your own admission, the boiling and freezing point
temperatures of water are pressure dependent, I invite you to state
what pressure would be required to be exerted on a volume of liquid
water in order to cause it to boil at 0°C.

The answer of course is: not much.

Hmmm...

Same as the answer to: "What does Floyd L. Davidson know about
anything?".

He appears to be confusing sublimation and evaporation with boiling.

*Look* at the statement:

Water can "boil" at 0C too.

It is *correct*, as you've all been very hasty to demonstrate.
It is not so precise as to say "at 0.010C", but certainly that
value is well within the normal meaning of "0C" (what, -.5 to
+.5 C!).

Huh? The issue is not whether water can be a gas at 0C, rather can it
*boil*. Since there is nowhere in the phase diagram that the water and
gas phase touch each other at 0C, my guess is that it cannot boil at
0C, at *any* pressure. It's only a guess though. ;-)

Did you even look at the charts? Did you read the many posts,
all of which agreed that at 0.01C, water can be a solid, a liquid,
or a gas.

Since what was specified was "0C", *not* 0.00C, arguing that 0.01
is different than 0C is silly. As noted, 0C covers anything from
-0.5 to +0.5C, because no decimal precison was specified.

And while sublimation might happen at that temperature too, as might
just simple evaporation, the fact that it doesn't break into a full
nucleate boiling state does *not* make what was stated wrong either.

What? Evaporation only occurs between the liquid and gas phases. I
suppose you're proposing that it somehow "tunnels" through the solid phase
at 0C? Me thinks you need to go back to high school physics.

Since at 0C it can be *any* of those... what's your point?

you! I don't need to call any of you names, because *you* are providing
everyone who reads these articles with all they need to know, whether
someone actually puts a label on it or not.

Squirming? Try reading the phase diagram that has been put right in front
of your nose. Water cannot "boil" at 0C. ...not possible.

If course when *you* provide so many handy labels, you'll have to expect
readers to use exactly those when they think of you.

"Handy" labels like "gas", "liquid", "solid", "boil", "melt", and
"sublimate"? I guess you have a point. We're being *so* judgemental.
...hurt your feelings?

Learn to read. People cannot understand the statement
'Water can "boil" at 0C too.' have a problem with the English
language. I you are going to claim you speak English as a second
language, I'll listen, otherwise not.

All this pedantic nashing of teeth for people who can't even read
common English syntax is amazing.

--
Floyd L. Davidson <http://web.newsguy.com/floyd_davidson>
Ukpeagvik (Barrow, Alaska) floyd@barrow.com

 

[Michael Kennedy]

"gerry" <gerrytwo@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:1130218427.273520.220900@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com...

Methinks, you doth protest too loudly. Have it your own way. Your
mean comment about shaking a tape to loosen it was uncalled for. Now
you have have spent a considerable amount of time criticizing my
comments. It is not worth the effort, since, as you must know, VCRs
are at the end of the line, having had a good 25 year run from 1978
(when they became widespread must-have but very expensive consumer
items) to 2003 (when DVD players really took control of the movie
rental market). Have a nice day, from a "technically ignorant person."
Ha, ha, ha!

What does this have to do with anything????

 

[Mxsmanic]

David Maynard writes:

Well, pencil and paper 'does the job' too but a text processor does it
better, and a WYSIWYG word processor does it even better, depending on how
one defines 'better'.

Yes, but those major leaps in functionality are mostly history now.
These days, the improvements usually involve multicolored transparent
menus, or larger and fancier 3-D icons, or other bells and whistles
that consume hardware and software resources but contribute nothing to
the basic purpose of the computer, for the average user.

Well, some people still have no computer at all and I'm building a tube
amplifier. Neither says much about the state of the broader market, or
people in general, as they're fringe/niche situations.

The broader market (and especially the worldwide market) is only
slightly beyond DOS today.

You're assuming there just isn't anything 'left to do' that can matter and
I'm not willing to make that assumption.

There may be plenty left to do; the problem is that nobody is doing
it. Software companies tend to content themselves with adding useless
bells and whistles--software bloat--to their products with each
upgrade, because adding truly new features and functionality requires
a lot of expensive development and involves taking serious risks. The
idea is to milk existing business for all the money one can, so
companies are unwilling to take risks with novelty. The bigger the
company, the more true this becomes.

You're losing track of the issue here, which was whether an O.S. 'upgrade'
can offer a significant enough improvement to warrant the 'upgrade', not
whether every last soul on the planet uses it. And I was pointing out that
the O.S. changes needed to take advantage of 32 bit technology, vs 16 bit
technology, was a significant enough performance increase.

Maybe. So what next? To justify an upgrade, I need something truly
interesting, and I just don't see that happening. The last upgrade I
found _interesting_ was from Windows 3.x to Windows NT (I never
bothered with Windows 95 and its ilk).

--
Transpose mxsmanic and gmail to reach me by e-mail.

 

[Mxsmanic]

David Maynard writes:

The Netscape matter is interesting because they began by giving their
browser away then, when they had 84% market share, began charging for it,
which would seem to be an exercise in monopolistic power... but maybe no
one sued. Then, when Microsoft gives away their browser, Netscape brings
suit against Microsoft for doing the same thing they had done to get an 84%
market share.

Amusing, eh?

Netscape wasn't seen as the bad guy; Microsoft was. The difference
between subjective perception and reality is sometimes enormous.

--
Transpose mxsmanic and gmail to reach me by e-mail.

 

[David Maynard]

Mxsmanic wrote:

David Maynard writes:


The Netscape matter is interesting because they began by giving their
browser away then, when they had 84% market share, began charging for it,
which would seem to be an exercise in monopolistic power... but maybe no
one sued. Then, when Microsoft gives away their browser, Netscape brings
suit against Microsoft for doing the same thing they had done to get an 84%
market share.

Amusing, eh?


Netscape wasn't seen as the bad guy; Microsoft was. The difference
between subjective perception and reality is sometimes enormous.

You betcha. So much for 'blind' justice

It gets even more interesting when you look at the 'ICON on the desktop'
issue. One could always install Netscape on a Windows machine, and sell it
that way, but what Netscape wanted was for OEMs, with, one imagines, a bit
of prodding from Netscape, the holder of monopoly power in the browser
market, to be able to *remove* I.E. from Microsoft's own product, not
simply coexist, and sell it with Netscape *only*.

One way of looking at it might be to say that Netscape was complaining
about Microsoft 'infringing' on their 'free use of monopoly power'

 

[John Doe]

David Maynard <nospam private.net> wrote:

John Doe wrote:

David Maynard <nospam private.net> wrote:


John Doe wrote:

snip

It should have been enough that I said I didn't intend to discuss
it with you but, upon your insistence, I've given enough of the
reasons why I don't intend to discuss it with you that even you
should be able to grasp that I don't intend to discuss it with
you.


By the way, do you think Microsoft Office is one application?

That's so silly, just like your justification for dodging the
Microsoft Windows monopoly question.

Well, I agree it's silly of you to keep hounding me.

I'm hounding you? For an opinion? On USENET?

That's funny too.

Do you think Microsoft Office is one application? I'm impressed that
anybody (who is supposed to be high technology oriented) can muster
the courage to say something like that in public. And I'm looking
forward to you all plainly stating your (comedic) belief that
Microsoft does not hold monopoly power. I don't mean BillW50, he is
way past comedy.

That baseball bat analogy (in a prior post) was posed by one of the
appeals court judges when Microsoft plainly argued that because
because it is the rightful owner of Windows, it has the right to do
anything with Windows.

Some Microsoft defender arguments are pretty funny, even arguments
put forth by extremely well-paid attorneys in federal court.

Microsoft is in court every day forcing its will upon smaller
software publishers. One year, Microsoft poured $650 million into
our justice system. Microsoft constantly employs our government to
physically force smaller software companies into compliance. If it
weren't for our intellectual property law and our government to
physically enforce that law at the point of a gun, Microsoft would
fall apart like a playing card house.

Path: newssvr11.news.prodigy.com!newsdbm04.news.prodigy.com!newsdst02.news.prodigy.com!newsmst01b.news.prodigy.com!prodigy.com!newscon06.news.prodigy.com!prodigy.net!border1.nntp.dca.giganews.com!nntp.giganews.com!postnews.google.com!news4.google.com!sn-xit-04!sn-xit-12!sn-xit-09!sn-post-01!supernews.com!corp.supernews.com!not-for-mail
From: David Maynard <nospam private.net
Newsgroups: sci.electronics.basics,sci.electronics.repair,alt.comp.hardware.pc-homebuilt
Subject: Re: The truth about OS/2!!! [Re: Why aren't computer clocks as accurate as cheap quartz watches?]
Date: Thu, 03 Nov 2005 22:53:46 -0600
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[David Maynard]

John Doe wrote:

David Maynard <nospam private.net> wrote:


John Doe wrote:


David Maynard <nospam private.net> wrote:



John Doe wrote:

snip

It should have been enough that I said I didn't intend to discuss
it with you but, upon your insistence, I've given enough of the
reasons why I don't intend to discuss it with you that even you
should be able to grasp that I don't intend to discuss it with
you.


By the way, do you think Microsoft Office is one application?

That's so silly, just like your justification for dodging the
Microsoft Windows monopoly question.

Well, I agree it's silly of you to keep hounding me.


I'm hounding you? For an opinion? On USENET?

That's probably the closest thing to an accurate summary I've ever seen
come out of you and this may come as a real shock but I am under no
'obligation' whatsoever to provide you with an opinion on ANYthing.

<snip>

 

[dkuhajda@locl.net]

There is no way to tell without actually getting inside the tv and
diagnosing it whether it is worth repairing or not.

The good thing is it is small enough to be taken into the servicer for
repair. The trip charges alone if you wanted in home service would
almost make the tv not worth repairing in most areas.

The other good thing is most repairs on that size tv are in the $100
range when you take it in. As long as the picture was nice and bright
and clear, then it probably would be worth at least getting an
estimate. At the very least you can postpone replacing the tv for a
few months and then use this one as a bedroom or second tv, or even as
a dedicated video game machine monitor.

FYI a 32" tube tv set is still going to run $270-$325 for anything
similar in quality to what you have now. The low end stuff is just
that, low end price, low end quality.

If you chose not to bother with the tv set, at least post where you
live in case someone where is willing to save you the disposal fees.
Most areas of the US it now costs upwards of $20 - $50 just to throw
one of those piles of hazardous waste away!!!

 

Thanks for info. I think I will go ahead and take it in for an
estimate, at least.


Thanks,

Phil

 

[427Cobraman]

Well, it looks like B+ is not available on the ckt with the good board
until unit is powered up, yet there is 4.7 volts at the pins on the IC
while in standby. I've pulled all but 3 hairs out of my head trying to
shoot as well as understand how this circuit is supposed to work. I
also went and double-checked all voltages coming into the card via
ribbon cable and everything checks out. *sigh* Incidentally, the owner
said he is willing to pay for a replacement card if all else fails.
Luckily he's a very patient neighbor! It's $95 bucks for the durned
thing. Again, I appreciate all of the guidance and encouragement!

Alex

 

[Jumpster Jiver]

UPDATE:
Replaced BOTH convergence IC's (STK392-040) and unit works perfect.

Alex

Of course it did.

 

[Ross Herbert]

On 13 Mar 2006 14:10:06 -0800, runderwo@mail.win.org wrote:

I know the difference between a fuse and a fuse holder in terms of
their function. However, I have not seen every fuse holder nor every
fuse. I jumped to a conclusion at the very beginning when I thought I
was looking at some strange, obsolete type of *fuse* when I was looking
at a *holder* of type which is apparently common and well known in test
equipment. How should I know? That's why I asked. (You know, the
holder says "Slo Blo" on it too.)

You came across something which was obviously a fuse or fuseholder
which you hadn't seen before. You knew the item you were asking about
on the unit was a fuse because it was marked so, and even had the
value and slo-blo written alongside it. The thing has a screw cap
which you removed so if this didn't give the clue that "duh, some type
of fuse must go in here". then no wonder other people are frustrated
at your posts.

So, before getting on the NG and posting did it occur to you to do
some research on the web, even if it was only to protect yourself from
ridicule because of your ignorance on the matter? By typing two words
"fuse fuseholder" (without the quotes) into Google would reveal in the
second picture a 3AG fuseholder similar to the one you had in front of
you.
http://www.allelectronics.com/cgi-bin/category.cgi?category=250

Clicking More Info on this item takes you to
http://www.allelectronics.com/cgi-bin/item/FHPM-31/250/3AG_PANEL_MOUNT_FUSE_HOLDER_.html
and it says "screw style cap" and "suits 3AG and MDL style". Now that
writing 3.2A SLO-BLO on your unit must refer to the fuse which goes in
it.

Browse by Category menu on the right would have revealed there were
separate categories for "Fuses" and "Fuseholders", so have a look at
Fuses. http://www.allelectronics.com/cgi-bin/category/245/Fuses.html

Here we find a sub-category "MDL (Slow-Blow)" so that takes us to
http://www.allelectronics.com/cgi-bin/category/245300/MDL_Slow-Blow.html

Item 5 is the closest you will get at 3A so now you know all you
needed to before getting on the NG and posting.

Look first, and when you have done your research ask questions from a
basis of at least having done something yourself.

To reply to the GP, with this knowledge of what is a fuse and what is a
holder straightened out several posts ago, I concluded that it was
given to me without a fuse. Isn't it a reasonable presumption then
that it previously blew a fuse? What other reason would one have for
removing a fuse?

Now hang on a minute... You didn't tell us before now that you were
supplied the unit "without the fuse", so how was anybody supposed to
guess this fact. So, NO, it is not a reasonable assumption for us to
"guess" that it had "previously blown a fuse". Only yourself would
have been able to make that assumption. We aren't psychic you know...

Given the information you provided we had to assume (wrongly it now
seems) that you knew what a fuseholder was and the type of fuse to
use, and that you had powered it up but it didn't work. We assumed you
would have ensured there was a fuse in it since you had all the info
written on the unit. And since you didn't say that fuse blew, we
assumed that your problem related to continuity within the fuse. These
things are so obvious to us that we didn't think to ask "have you
tried a new fuse in the fuseholder?" because we thought you would have
done this already.

No, there are no obvious short circuits in that there
are no loose wires. Since the presumption was that a fuse blew, that
was the first thing to check. But I can't tell whether it will blow
another fuse without putting another fuse in and powering it up, can I?

You are dead right there.... so why didn't you do it?

All right, we NOW know that you weren't aware that this style of fuse
holder used a tubular fuse but we couldn't guess that could we. After
all tubular fuses have been around since about 1930 and panel mount
fuseholders have been around for at least 50 years and anybody who is
even vaguely familiar with electronic equipment will have come across
them. The fact is you knew the object was a fuse because it was there
in white letters. It is obvious you must have unscrewed the cap and
found nothing there so pray tell me why this didn't prompt you to ask
yourself "now how can this fuse thing work when I have this completely
disconnected screw cap in my hand and there is nothing at all in it?"
Bloody hell, if it wasn't immediately obvious there was a bit missing
then your logic is non existent.

I don't see what has been so difficult to understand about what I have
posted. The largest part of the problem is that respondents would
rather jump to conclusions about my mettle than ask for clarification
if what I have posted is ambiguous or seems wrong.

Try to imagine that you are asking for help "by remote control". We
can't see what you have in front of you so you have to describe it in
detail. Heck, if I hadn't dug up that pic of the power supply by
Googling nobody would have had much of an idea of what you were
talking about.

I try to anticipate
replies when I post, but it is inescapable that descriptions will be
lacking at times. Furthermore, I have visited this project
approximately three times; since it is at home and I work all day my
opportunities are limited.

My experience is limited to consumer electronics component-swapping
(including fuses). That's why I haven't seen this type of holder
before - fuse holders in consumer equipment are almost invariably the
flex metal type. I can take the appropriate precautions vs becoming a
crispy critter when working on a monitor, a PC power supply, or a
microwave, so why do I feel like I need a disclaimer at the end of
every post I make about this power supply?

You seemed a candidate for a disclaimer because when it became obvious
you had never come across a panel mount fuseholder in your life. Then
it seemed possible you didn't have any electronics knowledge and you
might put yourself in danger by following suggestions. Anybody who has
dabbled in electronics in the last 50 years or more will have come
across this common type of fuseholder so it would have been highly
improbable that you hadn't seen one before.

What is a "flex metal" type fuse? I've never heard of it. What type of
"consumer electronics" are you talking about? Are you talking
whitegoods such as microwave ovens, washing machines etc? If so, you
are right, they don't have panel mount fuseholders. They don't want
ignorant people replacing the fuses when they don't know what they are
doing.

When whitegoods have a fuse it will usually be concealed inside but in
most cases that I have come across they are still tubular fuses either
ceramic or glass and generally size 3AG and mounted in an open style
fuse clip with a plastic insulating cover of some sort. A microwave
oven is a good example.

I realize you get what you pay for in terms of soliciting advice, but I
recall this group being a lot less hostile 5 years ago.

If you had given all the info to start with, and done some research,
you would have received the correct advice. Given the paucity of info
then you can't blame people for getting up your arse. The "hostility",
as you put it, came about because of frustration due to you not
providing all the info you had, or should have had, before posting.

 

[Arfa Daily]

"Ross Herbert" <rherber1@bigpond.net.au> wrote in message
news:nbrc12p8gle73gif2bci3auan4dpvupbei@4ax.com...

On 13 Mar 2006 14:10:06 -0800, runderwo@mail.win.org wrote:

I know the difference between a fuse and a fuse holder in terms of
their function. However, I have not seen every fuse holder nor every
fuse. I jumped to a conclusion at the very beginning when I thought I
was looking at some strange, obsolete type of *fuse* when I was looking
at a *holder* of type which is apparently common and well known in test
equipment. How should I know? That's why I asked. (You know, the
holder says "Slo Blo" on it too.)

You came across something which was obviously a fuse or fuseholder
which you hadn't seen before. You knew the item you were asking about
on the unit was a fuse because it was marked so, and even had the
value and slo-blo written alongside it. The thing has a screw cap
which you removed so if this didn't give the clue that "duh, some type
of fuse must go in here". then no wonder other people are frustrated
at your posts.

So, before getting on the NG and posting did it occur to you to do
some research on the web, even if it was only to protect yourself from
ridicule because of your ignorance on the matter? By typing two words
"fuse fuseholder" (without the quotes) into Google would reveal in the
second picture a 3AG fuseholder similar to the one you had in front of
you.
http://www.allelectronics.com/cgi-bin/category.cgi?category=250

Clicking More Info on this item takes you to
http://www.allelectronics.com/cgi-bin/item/FHPM-31/250/3AG_PANEL_MOUNT_FUSE_HOLDER_.html
and it says "screw style cap" and "suits 3AG and MDL style". Now that
writing 3.2A SLO-BLO on your unit must refer to the fuse which goes in
it.

Browse by Category menu on the right would have revealed there were
separate categories for "Fuses" and "Fuseholders", so have a look at
Fuses. http://www.allelectronics.com/cgi-bin/category/245/Fuses.html

Here we find a sub-category "MDL (Slow-Blow)" so that takes us to
http://www.allelectronics.com/cgi-bin/category/245300/MDL_Slow-Blow.html

Item 5 is the closest you will get at 3A so now you know all you
needed to before getting on the NG and posting.

Look first, and when you have done your research ask questions from a
basis of at least having done something yourself.


To reply to the GP, with this knowledge of what is a fuse and what is a
holder straightened out several posts ago, I concluded that it was
given to me without a fuse. Isn't it a reasonable presumption then
that it previously blew a fuse? What other reason would one have for
removing a fuse?

Now hang on a minute... You didn't tell us before now that you were
supplied the unit "without the fuse", so how was anybody supposed to
guess this fact. So, NO, it is not a reasonable assumption for us to
"guess" that it had "previously blown a fuse". Only yourself would
have been able to make that assumption. We aren't psychic you know...

Given the information you provided we had to assume (wrongly it now
seems) that you knew what a fuseholder was and the type of fuse to
use, and that you had powered it up but it didn't work. We assumed you
would have ensured there was a fuse in it since you had all the info
written on the unit. And since you didn't say that fuse blew, we
assumed that your problem related to continuity within the fuse. These
things are so obvious to us that we didn't think to ask "have you
tried a new fuse in the fuseholder?" because we thought you would have
done this already.

No, there are no obvious short circuits in that there
are no loose wires. Since the presumption was that a fuse blew, that
was the first thing to check. But I can't tell whether it will blow
another fuse without putting another fuse in and powering it up, can I?

You are dead right there.... so why didn't you do it?

All right, we NOW know that you weren't aware that this style of fuse
holder used a tubular fuse but we couldn't guess that could we. After
all tubular fuses have been around since about 1930 and panel mount
fuseholders have been around for at least 50 years and anybody who is
even vaguely familiar with electronic equipment will have come across
them. The fact is you knew the object was a fuse because it was there
in white letters. It is obvious you must have unscrewed the cap and
found nothing there so pray tell me why this didn't prompt you to ask
yourself "now how can this fuse thing work when I have this completely
disconnected screw cap in my hand and there is nothing at all in it?"
Bloody hell, if it wasn't immediately obvious there was a bit missing
then your logic is non existent.


I don't see what has been so difficult to understand about what I have
posted. The largest part of the problem is that respondents would
rather jump to conclusions about my mettle than ask for clarification
if what I have posted is ambiguous or seems wrong.

Try to imagine that you are asking for help "by remote control". We
can't see what you have in front of you so you have to describe it in
detail. Heck, if I hadn't dug up that pic of the power supply by
Googling nobody would have had much of an idea of what you were
talking about.

I try to anticipate
replies when I post, but it is inescapable that descriptions will be
lacking at times. Furthermore, I have visited this project
approximately three times; since it is at home and I work all day my
opportunities are limited.

My experience is limited to consumer electronics component-swapping
(including fuses). That's why I haven't seen this type of holder
before - fuse holders in consumer equipment are almost invariably the
flex metal type. I can take the appropriate precautions vs becoming a
crispy critter when working on a monitor, a PC power supply, or a
microwave, so why do I feel like I need a disclaimer at the end of
every post I make about this power supply?

You seemed a candidate for a disclaimer because when it became obvious
you had never come across a panel mount fuseholder in your life. Then
it seemed possible you didn't have any electronics knowledge and you
might put yourself in danger by following suggestions. Anybody who has
dabbled in electronics in the last 50 years or more will have come
across this common type of fuseholder so it would have been highly
improbable that you hadn't seen one before.

What is a "flex metal" type fuse? I've never heard of it. What type of
"consumer electronics" are you talking about? Are you talking
whitegoods such as microwave ovens, washing machines etc? If so, you
are right, they don't have panel mount fuseholders. They don't want
ignorant people replacing the fuses when they don't know what they are
doing.

When whitegoods have a fuse it will usually be concealed inside but in
most cases that I have come across they are still tubular fuses either
ceramic or glass and generally size 3AG and mounted in an open style
fuse clip with a plastic insulating cover of some sort. A microwave
oven is a good example.

I realize you get what you pay for in terms of soliciting advice, but I
recall this group being a lot less hostile 5 years ago.

If you had given all the info to start with, and done some research,
you would have received the correct advice. Given the paucity of info
then you can't blame people for getting up your arse. The "hostility",
as you put it, came about because of frustration due to you not
providing all the info you had, or should have had, before posting.

I can only add to all that Ross has said. Most of us who take the trouble to
try to help posters on here, are professional engineers in one field of
electronics, or another, and it would be grossly irresponsible of us to help
an inexperienced poster to his death, by recommending that he start work on
something that he did not understand. That is why you have suffered the type
of replies that you have from some respondents.

For what it's worth, I think that I probably understood where you were
coming from on this, in your earlier posts, but unfortunately, some of the
observations that you then went on to make, didn't help your case one little
bit, and the " abuse ( ?? ) " started. All I can ask is that you don't get
too offended by this, and stop coming to the group. Whilst the nature of the
posters has changed over the last five years, and probably the way that the
group is used now, there are still many good people on here, ready and
willing to help.

Please take Ross's good advice on board. It will help you in the future.
Also, please remember that Newsgroups are international, and whilst the
primary language in use is English, there are a number of different
variants - as in English English, American English, Australian English and
so on. What may seem like a clear statement to you, in whatever your variety
of English is, might appear to be utter nonsense to someone else who speaks
a different variety. Also, bear in mind that what might seem like an
offensive reply to you, might just be harmless banter from the respondents
point of view. I've seen many people get upset over this one.

Take a deep breath, calm down, and put your new fuse in. If it works, come
back and tell us. If it doesn't work, or blows, again, come back and tell
us, clearly, what does happen, and I'm sure we'll all just start again, and
offer you what help we can.

Arfa

 

[Ross Herbert]

On Tue, 14 Mar 2006 10:50:29 GMT, "Arfa Daily"
<arfa.daily@ntlworld.com> wrote:

I can only add to all that Ross has said. Most of us who take the trouble to
try to help posters on here, are professional engineers in one field of
electronics, or another, and it would be grossly irresponsible of us to help
an inexperienced poster to his death, by recommending that he start work on
something that he did not understand. That is why you have suffered the type
of replies that you have from some respondents.

For what it's worth, I think that I probably understood where you were
coming from on this, in your earlier posts, but unfortunately, some of the
observations that you then went on to make, didn't help your case one little
bit, and the " abuse ( ?? ) " started. All I can ask is that you don't get
too offended by this, and stop coming to the group. Whilst the nature of the
posters has changed over the last five years, and probably the way that the
group is used now, there are still many good people on here, ready and
willing to help.

Please take Ross's good advice on board. It will help you in the future.
Also, please remember that Newsgroups are international, and whilst the
primary language in use is English, there are a number of different
variants - as in English English, American English, Australian English and
so on. What may seem like a clear statement to you, in whatever your variety
of English is, might appear to be utter nonsense to someone else who speaks
a different variety. Also, bear in mind that what might seem like an
offensive reply to you, might just be harmless banter from the respondents
point of view. I've seen many people get upset over this one.

Take a deep breath, calm down, and put your new fuse in. If it works, come
back and tell us. If it doesn't work, or blows, again, come back and tell
us, clearly, what does happen, and I'm sure we'll all just start again, and
offer you what help we can.

Arfa

Nicely encapsulated Arfa

Yes Ryan, we will sincerely try to help once you have established some
facts as to what is happening. Without concise info we are just making
wild guesses.

 

[b]

jumper ha escrito:

Hello all,
I have a Sharp Hi8 ViewCam VL-4000 camcorder. The pinch roller has
fallen off. I managed to get it back in place but it does come off
after a while.
How do I get it fixed in place? The camcorder functions ok and image
quality is as normal as long the pinch roller is in place..
Can anyone give me advice?

Thanks,

there must be some kind of retainer clip which pushes in to the space
above the central shaft oin the pinch roller.or maybe a screw.
-b

 

[Art]

Most that I have been involved with are a sent to a facility and you receive
a refurbished item in return, plus a small fee they require. Under
manufacturer's warenty they usually just send you a new one. Haven't seen a
source yet for any of the components.
<dkuhajda@locl.net> wrote in message
news:1142293336.196398.294720@z34g2000cwc.googlegroups.com...

Jonni wrote:
Hi, just starting in troubleshooting and repair - can anyone recommend
some links for advice on fixing digital camera's etc?.

Thanks

Digital Cameras? Nope, cannot think of any as 99% of digital cameras
are all factory repair only and to the board level.

You might still find some help at www.repairfaq.org for most other
repairable consumer electronics items like analog tv sets, vcrs, cd
players, etc.

 

[Ross Herbert]

On Tue, 14 Mar 2006 18:18:37 -0800, Smitty Two
<prestwhich@earthlink.net> wrote:

In article <1142381141.342637.160910@j33g2000cwa.googlegroups.com>,
runderwo@mail.win.org wrote:

I don't want to interrupt your outburst (heck we all have to let it out
at times), but let me point out several things:

1) Another poster posted a picture of a similar supply, which I
confirmed had the same type of fuse, and which I assumed everyone had
access to refer to. It was pointed out to me that not everyone has a
news reader configured to display inline images.

2) Why on earth would I have mistaken the holder for the fuse if there
were a fuse in it to begin with?

3) I can't buy the correct fuse locally. I either waste several
dollars on shipping for a single order, or I wait until I have a batch
of parts for several projects that I need to order.

4) I have "dabbled" in electronics for at least the past 15 years and
have never run across this type of fuse holder, ergo, at least one
statement regarding my lack of intelligence is false. "Electronics" is
a big and diverse field.

5) Apologies for the image link, but this is the fuse holder I am
talking about that I do in fact see in almost everything I have
repaired. I would be extremely surprised if you have not:
http://www.epn-online.com/images/editorial/33/11/P-11035.JPG

Intelligence comes in many forms. If you know what a fuse does, that is,
connect two parts of a circuit, then you *should* have been able to tell
that the fuseholder wasn't doing that all by itself. That is a
particular form of intelligence called logic.

Also, if you know what a fuse does, and use logical, rational, problem
solving type of thinking, then you wouldn't jump to the conclusion that
a missing fuse equals a defective piece of equipment, particularly when
we're talking about a device that provides power to other things. It's
equally likely, if not more so, that whatever was last plugged into the
thing blew the fuse. Again, a failure of logic.

It's also possible that the last owner of the thing, uh, borrowed the
fuse for something that he needed more urgently.

I'm going to make you an offer. Delete the first h in my name, and send
me an email with your mailing address, and I'll send you a couple of
fuses at my expense. Then, perhaps, you can get to work doing whatever
you wanted to do with the thing in the first place.

Smitty, that's a great offer of help. I would have done the same
except sending fuses from Australia by airmail is many times the cost
of the fuses themselves.

And to Ryan, I very much doubt that anyone has you on their killfile
list. I certainly don't, and anyway, there are a whole heap of very
obnoxious posters well ahead of you for this treatment

Just take the advice of Arfa and Smitty and carry out some more
testing and note what takes place then tell us here. I'm sure that we
will be able to steer you in the right direction. Any schematic
details you can work out by inspection would be handy, but here is
where knowledge of components is vital in order to describe what you
are talking about. Nevertheless, you can only try and see how it goes
from there.

 

[Smitty Two]

In article <dv9kdc$h1m$1@news.doit.wisc.edu>, Bob <no@spam.org> wrote:

I have a Sony STR-D390 receiver -- circa 1992, digital tuner, drives 2 pair
speakers, has remote -- that (1) produces no sound except a very slight
hiss/buzz at full volume, (2) does not display "stereo" on startup when in
tuner mode tuned to an FM-stereo station and (3) has a dead tiny red light
in its motorized volume control knob.

All these symptoms began as an intermittent annoyance a few months ago,
always curable with a light tap or two on the chassis, then not-so-light
taps, then a couple good whacks, then hitting on it so hard the "logical"
next step was a sledgehammer. Good thing I don't have one.

Disconnecting everything and taking off the cover and gently poking around
I can find nothing obviously wrong -- solder joints look OK, no loose
components or broken wires or loose connectors. Does anyone out there have
any insights as to what the most likely problems would be and what a fix
would involve?

I have an old multitester and there are repair manuals available on line
but my skill/knowledge level got maxed out when they used vacuum tubes you
could take out and test at Radio Shack. Repair by Sony at their flat rate
would cost almost as much as buying a newer unit, and I'm trying to gather
what info I can before deciding to take it in for repair locally or
replacing it.

Thanks in advance from southern Wisconsin.

Look here, my good fellow from Wisconsin, spotting a cracked solder
joint often requires heaping quantities of magnification and lights
bright enough to toast marshmallows. Don't be tellin' me there's no
cracked joints if you haven't surveyed that thing at 10x on a high
rooftop at noon. Even then it's likely you'll have to wiggle suspicious
components to see the crack.

 

[Mark D. Zacharias]

"Mark D. Zacharias" <spammenot@nonsense.net> wrote in message news:...

"tvguy" <no@spam.invalid> wrote in message
newsmdMf.248293$c31.218947@fe08.news.easynews.com...
I really don`t think sony is going to fix this for free. They can be
a real pain to try to get something from them. You will need to pay
the shipping on this both ways and they will try to sell you a
reconditioned one and take yours as a trade in. I would sugest to try
to find a repairshop in your area where you can take it in to have it
serviced.


Problem is, and I say this as an authorized Sony servicer, the HCD-GX250
and 450 models are so bad

<snip>

Update:

It is beginning to appear that cleaning / reseating the front panel
connectors -mainly the big one- may fix these units for their variety of
unusual problems (no power, front LED blinking, tray cycling, no audio,
etc). Seems to have fixed a couple lately - but of course they could still
come back for re-do's. Recommend Caig Red (non-aerosol) - I think it's the
D-100 - for treating the contacts. Blows my mind that new units with new,
really, really tight connectors could have these problems, but there you
are. Requires a major dissassembly to access the connector at the front
panel side.


Mark Z.