Toshiba TV29C90 problem; Image fades to black...

[Fred]

BECAUSE!!! THAT'S WHY!! B^)


"Big Bill" <bill@pipping.com> wrote in message
newst0np09cd64tuon08kebuhjd1dpvlg5810@4ax.com...

On Wed, 17 Nov 2004 09:08:54 GMT, "Fred"
testing@testing1212mouse.com> wrote:

"RWM" <RWM@RWMann.com> wrote in message
news:419742D5.1010905@RWMann.com...


Fred wrote:

Have had this camera a long time but all of a sudden, it started
giving
me
the "battery empty" message right after I install 4 new batteries.

IT'S NOT THE BATTERIES OR THE BATTERY CONNECTIONS.

Nothing special happened the day it started -- I had taken about
100 photos with no problem, then when the batteries ran out, I put in
4
new
ones and got 2 photos before "battery empty" message came up. Same
ever
since.

Wonder if anyone had this problem come up on this or a similar model?

Thanks!!
Fred



In my experience, they're very sensitive to battery voltage. Even one
soft cell among "new" batteries will trigger that message. I've even
seen it happen with lithium cells. Suggest you switch out cells, and
see if you can identify the bad one.

Thanks, but... IT'S NOT THE BATTERIES!!! IT'S NOT THE BATTERIES!!! IT'S
NOT THE BATTERIES!!! IT'S NOT THE BATTERIES!!! IT'S NOT THE
BATTERIES!!!
IT'S NOT THE BATTERIES!!! IT'S NOT THE BATTERIES!!! IT'S NOT THE
BATTERIES!!! IT'S NOT THE BATTERIES!!! IT'S NOT THE BATTERIES!!! IT'S
NOT
THE BATTERIES!!! IT'S NOT THE BATTERIES!!! IT'S NOT THE BATTERIES!!!
IT'S
NOT THE BATTERIES!!! IT'S NOT THE BATTERIES!!!


How do you know?

--
Bill Funk
Change "g" to "a"

 

[Gymmy Bob]

He hasn't been able to get a job since either.

"Big Bill" <bill@pipping.com> wrote in message
news:sm0np0tipl58d3ehvd0bicrrd4vp6i2dc9@4ax.com...

On Wed, 17 Nov 2004 09:08:54 GMT, "Fred"
testing@testing1212mouse.com> wrote:
Have you heard about the retired machinist who was asked to fix a
problem? He spent some time studying the problem, then made a minor
adjustment (it consisted of kicking a component), and presented a bill
for $5,000.
When the bill was questioned, he revised the bill:

"Kicking whatsis: $10
Knowing which whatsis to kick: $4,990"
--
Bill Funk
Change "g" to "a"

 

[Fred]

"Mike" <e@earthlink.net> wrote in message news:CvQmd.28932

My only point Fred was to attempt to explain to you why Olympus does not
make some service information available. The fact is, this is not an
uncommon practice in the photo industry and especially now with the advent
of digital cameras. Here is an example; a friend owns a camera repair
shop
and has been an authorized Nikon and Canon warranty station for 12 to 15
years. Nikon has just allowed him to purchase parts ONLY after his tech
attended a 5 day class.
If I can find a source for a service manual I'll post it here. I don't
service Digital's.....thankfully.

Thanks - I see what you mean.

 

[Joe]

I posted this to the laptop groups and, as you can see from the
followups, didn't get any replies. Anyone have any idea about this
very common problem with HP laptops?

On Wed, 10 Nov 2004 22:07:53 GMT, Joe < alakran@HATusers.easynews.com
wrote:

I've been reading the forums at HP and noticed that there are
literally dozens of threads with the same problem:
One day the laptop will not boot, fan will spin up for a few seconds,
Cd will spin up(this is variable), always no video(external or
internal), sometimes the floppy will light up, the hd will usually
spin up but show minimal activity at boot up.
Some people notice that the lappy will freeze at random while in the
OS and then fail to restart, while others will not be able to cold
boot, but the symptoms, especially the fan and video, will always be
the same. I always read those, hoping it would never happen to
me....but now it has and now to another one owned by a colleague.

Now in my case(a GF), I *can* get mine to boot.....sometimes....by
stripping it right down and booting it an external monitor(Also a
couple of times to the lcd, so I know that and the inverter are OK).I
can't get the 2nd Xe3-GC one to boot at all. Also tried plugging in
all peripherals, so they are OK
It also booted a few times after I'd reassembled it, but celebrations
were premature.....

Tried reseating everything, seems to make no difference.
Replaced the hdd and the right angle connector so they are ok and of
course, I tried one stick of ram and different ram and the only thing
I noticed was that I do get the "no ram" error beeps.

Finally, I took the MB out, desoldered the Cmos battery and
reconnected it agfter 20 minutes....nada.

My guess(hope) is a dodgy PCA to MB connector(on either side), so I'm
about to try cleaning with 95% alcohol, but I fear it may be a failing
component on the MB or an internittent track somewhere in the
(integrated) PSU circuitry. I'm pretty sure a faulty hdd or anything
that could cause a high current drain could cause exactly the same
problem. Strangely enough, I managed to fix a similar fault on a
Toshiba about a year ago by reflowing the solder around the AC socket.

Surely with this many reports of an identical problem, something must
have come to light. I've just about given up on mine and will sell the
parts on to buy a new (non HP) lappy, but thought I'd ask here as a
last resort.


Now, the inevitable answer from HP is to "buy a new motherboard" and
the cheapest I've seen are $450. Since, for little more, I can buy a
new Toshiba Celeron, that doesn't make much sense


Take off the Hat to reply......

Anybody? Mr Ikenfixit? You MUST have come across this problem. The
forums are full of posts with the same problem. With all the different
omnibooks and Xe's I'd say I've seen hundreds of em. Anyway, I'm fed
up with wasting time on this thing(but it has been tempting after the
succesful repair of the Toshiba) and will probably sell the lcd and
some other parts on. Is there a market for this? Put the money towards
buying a new one....but it won't be an HP, that's for sure. There's a
design flaw here somewhere and I guess it won't come out on usenet.

Looks like I'm reduced to replying to myself, but I've worked on the
MBs a bit and this might help some of the many XE3/Pavilion owners out
there with the same problem, which is, in short, green light on, Fan
for 5 seconds, HD activity, CD spin up, but doesn't get to bios. Very
similar to the notorious Presario fault .
I resoldered the ac power sockets and thoroughly cleaned all the plugs
sockets and ribbon connectors. I then cleaned the entire motherboard
with an electronic solvent
Switched on and both the GF and GC booted up!! But *why* would the
ground on the ac socket prevent them booting up on battery?
Sadly, the GF still won't boot up 100%.....maybe 50%, but, insanely, I
*can* get it to boot up every time by firmly grabbing the left hand
rear of the case, or by pressing on the metal shield under the MB near
the bios/ram, so I'm pretty sure this is a ground problem

Really would like to find a circuit diagram.schematic for these.

 

[Asimov]

"N Cook" bravely wrote to "All" (02 Dec 04 15:36:59)
--- on the heady topic of "Re: Peavey Valverb"

NC> I've now dismantled.
NC> Wax coloured hot-melt glue, not wax.
NC> What I thought was just an intermediary smoothing stage is actually
NC> also a feed to a 12AT7 via a presumably impedance matching output
NC> transformer to A2 anode and the other via 47R to the A1.
NC> This transformer unpowered resistance seems ok about 2K on high imp
NC> side and 300 on low imp which directly connects to one of the coil
NC> type transducers on the spring-line. So maybe excess current in this
NC> valve hopefully rather than a failing impedance matching transformer.

NC> I've only ever come across piezo transducers on spring-lines before
NC> this is 56R on the send? transformer connected side and 196R on
NC> receive end coils.

Check the input coupling cap to the grid of the 12AT7 for leakage.
If this cap leaks it would cause a large current through the tube.
If the transformer shorted to ground, perhaps you can isolate it?

A*s*i*m*o*v

.... 'Keep the smoke inside.' -- 1st Rule of Electronics.

 

[Te]

"LASERandDVDfan" <laseranddvdfan@aol.com> wrote in message
news:20041204114338.21555.00001526@mb-m11.aol.com...

If the picture tube has a short in it, sometimes a tv service person
can
remove it with the right equiptment.

It's an Apex. You get what you pay for.

What makes it worth trying to fix? The cost for repair can easily exceed
the
value of the set.

Don't mean to advertise, but I think the original poster should consider
replacing that Apex with a nice Sony. - Reinhart

This is true, however it was bought for my kids bedroom christmas time last
year for $199? or something like that... But I would feel bad just tossing
it out, the screen clarity wise is fine, it just looks sick all green.

I was hoping there was an easy fix or maybe a suggestion to try "xxxxxx" to
repair...

 

[Jerry Greenberg]

You recieved a number of answers from people who have been in the TV
service business for most of their lives. I have been involved for
about 35 years, and still going at it.

--

The solution is to properly troubleshoot the set to know where the
failure is. It is impossible to guess at the fault.

Unfortunately, if any origional non-generic type parts are required,
they will not be available for this set. This brand of TV is
classified as "Disposable", and infact, is constructed as such.

Going by your description, the CRT is the most common type of failure.


Jerry G.
========



"Te" <te@-NOSPAM-pobox.com> wrote in message news:<Cnosd.440359$wV.350134@attbi_s54>...

"LASERandDVDfan" <laseranddvdfan@aol.com> wrote in message
news:20041204114338.21555.00001526@mb-m11.aol.com...
If the picture tube has a short in it, sometimes a tv service person
can
remove it with the right equiptment.

It's an Apex. You get what you pay for.

What makes it worth trying to fix? The cost for repair can easily exceed
the
value of the set.

Don't mean to advertise, but I think the original poster should consider
replacing that Apex with a nice Sony. - Reinhart

This is true, however it was bought for my kids bedroom christmas time last
year for $199? or something like that... But I would feel bad just tossing
it out, the screen clarity wise is fine, it just looks sick all green.

I was hoping there was an easy fix or maybe a suggestion to try "xxxxxx" to
repair...

 

[Fred]

Sad but true - they want the fast buck and not the long-term customer.

On the other hand, it doesn't do their reputation any good. I SWEAR by
Sharp products - because of their reliability, documentation and phone
service. I have had many - radios, organizers, you name it .. Heck, I'm
still using an old Sharp Fax machine at work daily since 1993 daily and
never a burp the whole time. Lots of moving parts and never breaks down.

I guess we should all be glad that Olympus doesn't make airplanes.

"AC" <qqppp@qqpp.com> wrote in message
news:41b384a1@news.comindico.com.au...

The problem is, that the throw-away mentality, and pricing structure of
replacements means that repair of these kind of appliances is limited to
the
scope of hobbyists such as yourself. Why would they go to the trouble of
supplying a service for a vast minority of users, who they can't make any
more money from?

"Fred" <testing@testing1212mouse.com> wrote in message
news:_pLld.3970$N_5.1750@trnddc03...
LOL! I know I'm probably asking the same thing over and over, but I
have
gotten much good info by posting. Although I'd still like to find some
kind
of service documentation, schematics, etc., that choice is probably not
going to happen. But that doesn't stop me from trying. If I can
actually
troubleshoot to the component, there are boxes full of C700's and others
in
that same series out there that could be fixed and save the user $150.
I
plan to create a site and post the how-to-fix-it info I get -- if I ever
get
anything usable.

Nothing irks me more than these big companies selling expensive items
and
then not making service documentation available to the purchaser.
Smacks
of
monopoly to me.

And, no, I'm not running for office. B^)

Fred

"Harvey" <harvey@not.ntlworld.com> wrote in message
news:qhLld.106$2O5.83@newsfe5-win.ntli.net...

"Fred" <testing@testing1212mouse.com> wrote in message
news:LXKld.4359$GV5.3522@trnddc04...
IT'S NOT THE BATTERIES!!! IT'S NOT THE BATTERIES!!!
IT'S NOT THE BATTERIES!!! IT'S NOT THE BATTERIES!!!

Any other suggestions would be appreciated.


How about a faulty camera then?

 

[Fred]

Forgot to mention the best Sharp product of all - their camcorders. Again,
tons of moving parts and not a breakdown in 8 years with mine.

"Fred" <testing@testing1212mouse.com> wrote in message
news:0NLsd.388$mn6.62@trnddc07...

Sad but true - they want the fast buck and not the long-term customer.

On the other hand, it doesn't do their reputation any good. I SWEAR by
Sharp products - because of their reliability, documentation and phone
service. I have had many - radios, organizers, you name it .. Heck, I'm
still using an old Sharp Fax machine at work daily since 1993 daily and
never a burp the whole time. Lots of moving parts and never breaks down.

I guess we should all be glad that Olympus doesn't make airplanes.

"AC" <qqppp@qqpp.com> wrote in message
news:41b384a1@news.comindico.com.au...
The problem is, that the throw-away mentality, and pricing structure of
replacements means that repair of these kind of appliances is limited to
the
scope of hobbyists such as yourself. Why would they go to the trouble of
supplying a service for a vast minority of users, who they can't make
any
more money from?

"Fred" <testing@testing1212mouse.com> wrote in message
news:_pLld.3970$N_5.1750@trnddc03...
LOL! I know I'm probably asking the same thing over and over, but I
have
gotten much good info by posting. Although I'd still like to find
some
kind
of service documentation, schematics, etc., that choice is probably
not
going to happen. But that doesn't stop me from trying. If I can
actually
troubleshoot to the component, there are boxes full of C700's and
others
in
that same series out there that could be fixed and save the user $150.
I
plan to create a site and post the how-to-fix-it info I get -- if I
ever
get
anything usable.

Nothing irks me more than these big companies selling expensive items
and
then not making service documentation available to the purchaser.
Smacks
of
monopoly to me.

And, no, I'm not running for office. B^)

Fred

"Harvey" <harvey@not.ntlworld.com> wrote in message
news:qhLld.106$2O5.83@newsfe5-win.ntli.net...

"Fred" <testing@testing1212mouse.com> wrote in message
news:LXKld.4359$GV5.3522@trnddc04...
IT'S NOT THE BATTERIES!!! IT'S NOT THE BATTERIES!!!
IT'S NOT THE BATTERIES!!! IT'S NOT THE BATTERIES!!!

Any other suggestions would be appreciated.


How about a faulty camera then?

 

[NSM]

"Fred" <testing@testing1212mouse.com> wrote in message
news:0NLsd.388$mn6.62@trnddc07...
| Sad but true - they want the fast buck and not the long-term customer.
|
| On the other hand, it doesn't do their reputation any good. I SWEAR by
| Sharp products - because of their reliability, documentation and phone
| service. I have had many - radios, organizers, you name it .. Heck, I'm
| still using an old Sharp Fax machine at work daily since 1993 daily and
| never a burp the whole time. Lots of moving parts and never breaks down.
|
| I guess we should all be glad that Olympus doesn't make airplanes.

And that Lucas doesn't make the electrics for them!

N

 

[none]

On Sun, 05 Dec 2004 21:58:58 GMT, "AC" <qqppp@qqpp.com> wrote:

The problem is, that the throw-away mentality, and pricing structure of
replacements means that repair of these kind of appliances is limited to the
scope of hobbyists such as yourself. Why would they go to the trouble of
supplying a service for a vast minority of users, who they can't make any
more money from?

MAYBE so they'll get us as customers the NEXT time we purchase a

camera?

"Fred" <testing@testing1212mouse.com> wrote in message
news:_pLld.3970$N_5.1750@trnddc03...
LOL! I know I'm probably asking the same thing over and over, but I have
gotten much good info by posting. Although I'd still like to find some
kind
of service documentation, schematics, etc., that choice is probably not
going to happen. But that doesn't stop me from trying. If I can
actually
troubleshoot to the component, there are boxes full of C700's and others
in
that same series out there that could be fixed and save the user $150. I
plan to create a site and post the how-to-fix-it info I get -- if I ever
get
anything usable.

Nothing irks me more than these big companies selling expensive items and
then not making service documentation available to the purchaser. Smacks
of
monopoly to me.

And, no, I'm not running for office. B^)

Fred

"Harvey" <harvey@not.ntlworld.com> wrote in message
news:qhLld.106$2O5.83@newsfe5-win.ntli.net...

"Fred" <testing@testing1212mouse.com> wrote in message
news:LXKld.4359$GV5.3522@trnddc04...
IT'S NOT THE BATTERIES!!! IT'S NOT THE BATTERIES!!!
IT'S NOT THE BATTERIES!!! IT'S NOT THE BATTERIES!!!

Any other suggestions would be appreciated.


How about a faulty camera then?

 

[N Cook]

"Asimov" <Asimov@-removethis-bbs.juxtaposition.dynip.com> wrote in message
news:MSGID_1=3a167=2f133.0_41afe9d3@fidonet.org...

"N Cook" bravely wrote to "All" (02 Dec 04 15:36:59)
--- on the heady topic of "Re: Peavey Valverb"

NC> I've now dismantled.
NC> Wax coloured hot-melt glue, not wax.
NC> What I thought was just an intermediary smoothing stage is actually
NC> also a feed to a 12AT7 via a presumably impedance matching output
NC> transformer to A2 anode and the other via 47R to the A1.
NC> This transformer unpowered resistance seems ok about 2K on high imp
NC> side and 300 on low imp which directly connects to one of the coil
NC> type transducers on the spring-line. So maybe excess current in this
NC> valve hopefully rather than a failing impedance matching transformer.

NC> I've only ever come across piezo transducers on spring-lines before
NC> this is 56R on the send? transformer connected side and 196R on
NC> receive end coils.

Check the input coupling cap to the grid of the 12AT7 for leakage.
If this cap leaks it would cause a large current through the tube.
If the transformer shorted to ground, perhaps you can isolate it?

A*s*i*m*o*v

... 'Keep the smoke inside.' -- 1st Rule of Electronics.

The grid seems to be isolated via Vactec LED-photocell coupler/isolator.

Reconnected 12AT7 HT line and poweed up on 40 percent mains
and 200 to 20 V drop across the 16K for a few seconds,
same without the valve in place.

I suppose I never come across primary to secondary shorts on transformers
and never thought to put a DVM across this output matching T.
2.14K resistance on HV coil and 310R on output to springline
coil which is ground referenced. Anyway min. 150R between these 2 coil
terminals
and
I assume not some sort of auto transformer. Desoldered this T,
for the archives the frame is not grounded but the tangs are bent over and
soldered against the pcb polyester but this is not obvious.
About 1 inch cube of small transformer. The 'bobbin' or at least axial
end faces are thin plastic and could easily be bent back showing
large coil to centre and smaller on outside with vinyl tape between
the two and loose coils of wire at the ends. Not constrained really ,
certainly not lacquered or varnished just some liquid yellow paint or
something, maybe decomposed yellow vinyl tape..
Anyway probing about and pushing the coil bulk, this cross-connection
resistance
would increase above 30M and putting a cable tie around the coil bulk
would at least temporarily 'cure' the problem.
Assuming the iron laminations will part it will probably be
fairly straightforward to count off and rewind the outer coil or
at least properly seat the existing coils and lacquer in place.

Badly designed / made output matching transformer looks like.

electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
http://homepages.tcp.co.uk/~diverse

 

[Norm Dresner]

"Don Taylor" <dont@agora.rdrop.com> wrote in message
news:200412060759.iB67xnkd070930@agora.rdrop.com...

In sci.electronics.design you write:
There are many inexpensive, so-called "atomic clocks" in the mass market
which AIUI use something like the NIST radio sites to do the time
setting.
Is it possible to hack into one of these and extract a signal that could
be
used for calibration of instruments. I'm not looking for "NIST
Traceable"
but just something to calibrate a bunch of frequency meters to a
reasonable
standard.

As others have said, those aren't likely a solution.

Since I haven't read yet any answers to the posting I don't know what
you're referring to, but I'm sure there are significant problems with the
idea or we'd have seen several articles already on how to do it, but since I
have very little RF experience, I thought it wise to ask some "experts".

Other ideas, GPS signals have much higher precision
and you might be able to find a cheap used instrument
class box that would extract that signal for a standard.

I think I remember the television frequencies being
very tightly controlled. Perhaps you could track down
info on extracting that standardized frequency for use.

Or buy a cheap frequency reference, either one of the
little ovens keeping a crystal at a fixed temp or one
of the rubidium oscillators that some instruments have
used for such purposes.

I've got an ovenized crystial I bought on eBay -- but I still have no
independent means of assessing it's accuracy.

Building a little ammonia maser might be a fun project.

Right!

Thanks
Norm

 

[James Sweet]

"Norm Dresner" <ndrez@att.net> wrote in message
news:0SYsd.95787$7i4.78706@bgtnsc05-news.ops.worldnet.att.net...

"Don Taylor" <dont@agora.rdrop.com> wrote in message
news:200412060759.iB67xnkd070930@agora.rdrop.com...
In sci.electronics.design you write:
There are many inexpensive, so-called "atomic clocks" in the mass
market
which AIUI use something like the NIST radio sites to do the time
setting.
Is it possible to hack into one of these and extract a signal that
could
be
used for calibration of instruments. I'm not looking for "NIST
Traceable"
but just something to calibrate a bunch of frequency meters to a
reasonable
standard.

As others have said, those aren't likely a solution.

Those "atomic" clocks contain a reciever for the WWVB time broadcast. The
ones I've seen inside have a self contained reciever board which requires a
clean source of 3-5v and output a binary coded number. There's 60 bits
transmitted at one bit per second, information on decoding it is out there
on the web.

 

[Asimov]

"N Cook" bravely wrote to "All" (06 Dec 04 12:00:12)
--- on the heady topic of "Re: Peavey Valverb"

NC> From: "N Cook" <diverse2@tcp.co.antyspahm.uk>
NC> Subject: Re: Peavey Valverb

NC> I suppose I never come across primary to secondary shorts on
NC> transformers and never thought to put a DVM across this output matching
NC> T. 2.14K resistance on HV coil and 310R on output to springline
NC> coil which is ground referenced. Anyway min. 150R between these 2 coil
NC> terminals
NC> and
NC> I assume not some sort of auto transformer. Desoldered this T,
NC> for the archives the frame is not grounded but the tangs are bent over
NC> and soldered against the pcb polyester but this is not obvious.
NC> About 1 inch cube of small transformer. The 'bobbin' or at least axial
NC> end faces are thin plastic and could easily be bent back showing
NC> large coil to centre and smaller on outside with vinyl tape between
NC> the two and loose coils of wire at the ends. Not constrained really ,
NC> certainly not lacquered or varnished just some liquid yellow paint or
NC> something, maybe decomposed yellow vinyl tape..
NC> Anyway probing about and pushing the coil bulk, this cross-connection
NC> resistance
NC> would increase above 30M and putting a cable tie around the coil bulk
NC> would at least temporarily 'cure' the problem.
NC> Assuming the iron laminations will part it will probably be
NC> fairly straightforward to count off and rewind the outer coil or
NC> at least properly seat the existing coils and lacquer in place.

NC> Badly designed / made output matching transformer looks like.

Looks like the transformer wasn't properly rated for voltage or it was
slightly roasted by an over-current condition. It could be a pretty
common part. From my experience these little matching transformers
tend to have little bass response below about 200Hz which is a good
thing for reverb spring lines. This means just about any type in that
ballpark range would work well. The winding resistances of 2.14K and
310R is a ratio of about 6.9:1 and is probably close to the turns
ratio because the wire, for such low power applications, is sometimes
the same gauge in both windings. "But" it is only a guess.

If you will use a tie-wrap, at least add an in-line low current fuse
to the ps tap, as one can't be sure the xfrmr won't short again.

A*s*i*m*o*v

.... Dunno if we'll get that past the CSA und UL 'owever.

 

[Bill Jeffrey]

Another possibility, depending on how much accuracy you are looking for.
The WWV carrier frequency is quite accurate. Get yourself a receiver
that will tune to one of the WWV signals - say 10 MHz. Now get a
tunable sig gen that will tune to 10 MHz, and plug it into the freq
counter you want to calibrate. Let a little of the sig gen output leak
into the receiver's antenna. When the sig gen is within 5 KHz or so of
WWV, you will hear a high-pitched whistle. Carefully tune the sig gen
to reduce the pitch - bring the pitch right down to zero (called
zero-beat). At this point, the sig gen is within a couple Hz of 10 MHz
if you've done it carefully, and the freq counter should read 10 MHz -
tweak its CAL adjustment if it doesn't. At this point, you have a freq
meter that is correct to 0.1 or 0.2 ppm. Is this "reasonable" enough
for your application?

Bill
===================
James Sweet wrote:

Is it possible to hack into one of these and extract a signal that
could be used for calibration of instruments. I'm not looking for "NIST
Traceable", but just something to calibrate a bunch of frequency meters to a
reasonable standard.

Those "atomic" clocks contain a reciever for the WWVB time broadcast. The
ones I've seen inside have a self contained reciever board which requires a
clean source of 3-5v and output a binary coded number. There's 60 bits
transmitted at one bit per second, information on decoding it is out there
on the web.

 

Unplug the power, press and hold the menu button, plug in the power
(hold the menu button for 5 seconds after power is plugged in). Release
the menu button, now press 91, if the display still shows the error,
press 99. This fixed my problem today.


Dave Moore wrote:

Hello, someone gave me aBrother Intellifax 2800 and not being one
to like things going to landfill, and thinking it would be nice to
have a
plain paper laser FAX, I decided to give it a go repairing it.

Well, I fixed the SMPS. and thought I had it, but after it runs
through
a bunch of power up sequences it outputs an error
"Machine Error # 77" . Of course the manual says to call
Brother Service at this point because that error indicates
a mechanical problem.

Does anyone know just what mechanical problem that particular error
indicates?

I've been to the Brother web site and they seem to be tight lipped
at
the web site about the details of the machine error codes.

Any help here truly appreciated.

Thanks
=^^= Dave Moore

 

[Fred]

Dear Mr. Williams:

Finally!!! An ACTUAL person who works for Olympus!! This is great to see
you posting here!

I would really appreciate your helping me solve this problem. I have
contacted your technical support and they are unable to help me. (Please do
not give me any more Olympus phone numbers as I have called them all and
they are of no help.)

I have a C700. The power circuit has a fault. *** This is not a problem with
batteries, battery connections or power wiring. **** I am familiar with
electronic troubleshooting and I have eliminated any external source of the
problem. I have also contact at least a dozen other users of this camera
series who have the identical problem.

My question is this...

Where can I obtain service documentation? I have been told that this
documentation is available but not for the public or camera shops. This
camera was purchased less than 3 years ago and I would like to get service
documentation - such as schematics or parts list.

Note that I already have every piece of PDF literature from the olympus
website and, although well written, it is all operator information and of no
help in this case.

Olympus charges $155 flat rate to repair this camera - regardless of what
the problem is. This is more than the camera is worth to me.

In concluding, I will say that I will NEVER buy another Olympus digital
camera in the future if I cannot repair this one for under $100.

If you would like to contact me directly about this, please feel free to use
the email address below.

Thank you.

Fred
lexmark8792@yahooREMOVE.com








"Martin" <NOSPAM.martin.norris@excite.com.REMOVE> wrote in message
news:Ujltd.2113$934.1075@newsfe3-gui.ntli.net...

FYI :

Dear Mr. Norris,

I acknowledge receipt of your e-mail and note its content accordingly.

For marketing purposes, a commercial decision was made to sell only the
black version of the C-770 camera in Europe. The silver version is
obtainable, although this would be from dealers that do not obtain their
stock from Olympus Europa and I would therefore have no details with
regard
to them. I would, however, respectfully advise that you browse the
internet
for web stockists that may carry this item.

I trust that the above information is of use.

Regards,

David Williams

Customer Support
Olympus UK Limited
2-8 Honduras Street,
London
EC1Y 0TX.

mailto:customer-support@olympus.uk.com
URL: http://www.olympus.co.uk

"Martin" <NOSPAM.martin.norris@excite.com.REMOVE> wrote in message
news:iH0td.85$bc4.40@newsfe1-win.ntli.net...
I've been looking at the Olympus C770 on various sites. The UK version
only seems to come in black, The Hong Kong imports on eBay are silver
aswell as the ones advertised in the US. I prefer the look of the
silver/chrome/brushed ali' model..

Apart from the cosmetics are there any technical diferences between
these?
Can you get a legitimate UK/EU warrantied silver model?

Thanks

Martin

 

[Fred]

I neglected to give you one more piece of info that might help...

Just now, to be sure the camera is still doing the same thing, I put in
brand new batteries, turned it on. It has been sitting unused for a month
or more.

Here's what happens...

I turn it on and the lens extends automatically as it should.

I hit the shutter button and one photo takes fine.

I use the LCD display to change various settings and it works fine.

Then I take another photo - just fine. Then the 3rd photo, I get the bad
battery warning on the LCD.

Sometimes I am able to operate the zoom once or twice before dying. Other
times, I can't even get the 1st photo to take.

Also... the batteries are NOT being drained. I have a battery tester and
they are still registering 100% charged when the camera fails.

Hope this gives you more info.

Fred
lexmark8792@yahooREMOVETHESE.com

"Fred" <testing@testing1212mouse.com> wrote in message
news:QBIud.6181$xa6.845@trnddc09...

Dear Mr. Williams:

Finally!!! An ACTUAL person who works for Olympus!! This is great to see
you posting here!

I would really appreciate your helping me solve this problem. I have
contacted your technical support and they are unable to help me. (Please
do
not give me any more Olympus phone numbers as I have called them all and
they are of no help.)

I have a C700. The power circuit has a fault. *** This is not a problem
with
batteries, battery connections or power wiring. **** I am familiar with
electronic troubleshooting and I have eliminated any external source of
the
problem. I have also contact at least a dozen other users of this camera
series who have the identical problem.

My question is this...

Where can I obtain service documentation? I have been told that this
documentation is available but not for the public or camera shops. This
camera was purchased less than 3 years ago and I would like to get service
documentation - such as schematics or parts list.

Note that I already have every piece of PDF literature from the olympus
website and, although well written, it is all operator information and of
no
help in this case.

Olympus charges $155 flat rate to repair this camera - regardless of what
the problem is. This is more than the camera is worth to me.

In concluding, I will say that I will NEVER buy another Olympus digital
camera in the future if I cannot repair this one for under $100.

If you would like to contact me directly about this, please feel free to
use
the email address below.

Thank you.

Fred
lexmark8792@yahooREMOVE.com








"Martin" <NOSPAM.martin.norris@excite.com.REMOVE> wrote in message
news:Ujltd.2113$934.1075@newsfe3-gui.ntli.net...
FYI :

Dear Mr. Norris,

I acknowledge receipt of your e-mail and note its content accordingly.

For marketing purposes, a commercial decision was made to sell only the
black version of the C-770 camera in Europe. The silver version is
obtainable, although this would be from dealers that do not obtain their
stock from Olympus Europa and I would therefore have no details with
regard
to them. I would, however, respectfully advise that you browse the
internet
for web stockists that may carry this item.

I trust that the above information is of use.

Regards,

David Williams

Customer Support
Olympus UK Limited
2-8 Honduras Street,
London
EC1Y 0TX.

mailto:customer-support@olympus.uk.com
URL: http://www.olympus.co.uk

"Martin" <NOSPAM.martin.norris@excite.com.REMOVE> wrote in message
news:iH0td.85$bc4.40@newsfe1-win.ntli.net...
I've been looking at the Olympus C770 on various sites. The UK version
only seems to come in black, The Hong Kong imports on eBay are silver
aswell as the ones advertised in the US. I prefer the look of the
silver/chrome/brushed ali' model..

Apart from the cosmetics are there any technical diferences between
these?
Can you get a legitimate UK/EU warrantied silver model?

Thanks

Martin

 

[Buster]

Thanks for the offer, but they are free online to dealers. If you need
any others, let me know.
Thanks,
Buster
On Sat, 11 Dec 2004 20:20:43 GMT, "Fred"
<testing@testing1212mouse.com> wrote:

Buster!! You are a fine and wonderful fellow!!! This is a great help! If
you would like to send me your snail mail address, I will gladly drop
something in the mail to you.

lexmark8792@yahooREMOVETHESE.com

Fred

"Buster" <nobody@nowhere.com> wrote in message
news:b32ir01il99vbmv8g3cf2s4teo47593suc@4ax.com...
I have posted a copy of the Olympus parts drawing and list for the
C700 at http://home.twcny.rr.com/littleblackdogs/C700.pdf
Hope this helps,
Buster