Toshiba TV29C90 problem; Image fades to black...

You're right! My directory was full, and the file didn't d/l
completely. Try it again.
Buster
On Wed, 22 Dec 2004 05:17:52 -0500, "Rudy Benner"
<bennerREMOVE@personainternet.com> wrote:

The downloaded file is corrupt. I tried twice.

"Buster" <nobody@nowhere.com> wrote in message
news:b2qhs0p3thm27kur2m5qblmi7rn7hp3ue2@4ax.com...
See if this works..
http://home.twcny.rr.com/littleblackdogs/D460Z.pdf
Buster

On Wed, 22 Dec 2004 00:00:05 -0000, James Horn <jimhorn@svn.net
wrote:

Buster - would you have access to the D-460 camera drawings? Many
thanks!!

Jim Horn
 
You fixed it.

"Buster" <nobody@nowhere.com> wrote in message
news:ikuis05dbu2g1glghrjk9n78oj2qm424t3@4ax.com...
You're right! My directory was full, and the file didn't d/l
completely. Try it again.
Buster
On Wed, 22 Dec 2004 05:17:52 -0500, "Rudy Benner"
bennerREMOVE@personainternet.com> wrote:

The downloaded file is corrupt. I tried twice.

"Buster" <nobody@nowhere.com> wrote in message
news:b2qhs0p3thm27kur2m5qblmi7rn7hp3ue2@4ax.com...
See if this works..
http://home.twcny.rr.com/littleblackdogs/D460Z.pdf
Buster

On Wed, 22 Dec 2004 00:00:05 -0000, James Horn <jimhorn@svn.net
wrote:

Buster - would you have access to the D-460 camera drawings? Many
thanks!!

Jim Horn
 
Is it not interesting how well the Japanese can spell.
EXPRODED PARTS DIAGRAM

The title of the PDF.

--
CSM1
http://www.carlmcmillan.com
--

"Buster" <nobody@nowhere.com> wrote in message
news:ikuis05dbu2g1glghrjk9n78oj2qm424t3@4ax.com...
You're right! My directory was full, and the file didn't d/l
completely. Try it again.
Buster
On Wed, 22 Dec 2004 05:17:52 -0500, "Rudy Benner"
bennerREMOVE@personainternet.com> wrote:

The downloaded file is corrupt. I tried twice.

"Buster" <nobody@nowhere.com> wrote in message
news:b2qhs0p3thm27kur2m5qblmi7rn7hp3ue2@4ax.com...
See if this works..
http://home.twcny.rr.com/littleblackdogs/D460Z.pdf
Buster

On Wed, 22 Dec 2004 00:00:05 -0000, James Horn <jimhorn@svn.net
wrote:

Buster - would you have access to the D-460 camera drawings? Many
thanks!!

Jim Horn
 
On Sunday, 19 Dec 2004 23:34:44 -500 "Asimov"
<Asimov@-removethis-bbs.juxtaposition.dynip.com> wrote:

Self-induction and eddy currents is not the same thing as a material
being ferromagnetic. Aluminum is not in the list of ferromagnetic
materials. Ferromagnetism is the most important property for an
effective magnetic shield.
Non-ferromagnetic, but conductive, materials are effective magnetic
shields if the material is thick enough and the magnetic field is AC.

For copper the skin depth is about 1 cm at 60 Hz. Since the
conductivity of alum is worse than that of copper, it's skin depth
will be thicker.

A thickness of 1 skin depth will reduce the field by 1/e, which isn't
all that great.

So, I have to agree, that alum shielding would probably have to be
close to 1" thick before it would make much of a difference.

But even shielding with Mu-metal is difficult. By far, the best
solution is to attack the problem at the source.

-
-----------------------------------------------
Jim Adney jadney@vwtype3.org
Madison, WI 53711 USA
-----------------------------------------------
 
"James Horn" <jimhorn@svn.net> wrote in message
news:10sjl9id8247m7f@corp.supernews.com...
In alt.comp.periphs.dcameras Buster <nobody@nowhere.com> wrote:
See if this works..
http://home.twcny.rr.com/littleblackdogs/D460Z.pdf
Buster

*** THANK YOU - THANK YOU ***

And a fine Christmas and New Year to you, Buster - and to Fred for
starting this discussion - and the rest of the group participants.

Thank you!

Jim Horn
Thanks, Jim, and same back to you ... and to all the other fine and friendly
folks who tak the time to help folks with questions.

Fred
 
"Asimov" <Asimov@-removethis-bbs.juxtaposition.dynip.com> wrote in message
news:MSGID_1=3a167=2f133.0_41b53abd@fidonet.org...
"N Cook" bravely wrote to "All" (06 Dec 04 12:00:12)
--- on the heady topic of "Re: Peavey Valverb"

NC> From: "N Cook" <diverse2@tcp.co.antyspahm.uk
NC> Subject: Re: Peavey Valverb

NC> I suppose I never come across primary to secondary shorts on
NC> transformers and never thought to put a DVM across this output
matching
NC> T. 2.14K resistance on HV coil and 310R on output to springline
NC> coil which is ground referenced. Anyway min. 150R between these 2
coil
NC> terminals
NC> and
NC> I assume not some sort of auto transformer. Desoldered this T,
NC> for the archives the frame is not grounded but the tangs are bent
over
NC> and soldered against the pcb polyester but this is not obvious.
NC> About 1 inch cube of small transformer. The 'bobbin' or at least
axial
NC> end faces are thin plastic and could easily be bent back showing
NC> large coil to centre and smaller on outside with vinyl tape between
NC> the two and loose coils of wire at the ends. Not constrained really ,
NC> certainly not lacquered or varnished just some liquid yellow paint or
NC> something, maybe decomposed yellow vinyl tape..
NC> Anyway probing about and pushing the coil bulk, this cross-connection
NC> resistance
NC> would increase above 30M and putting a cable tie around the coil bulk
NC> would at least temporarily 'cure' the problem.
NC> Assuming the iron laminations will part it will probably be
NC> fairly straightforward to count off and rewind the outer coil or
NC> at least properly seat the existing coils and lacquer in place.

NC> Badly designed / made output matching transformer looks like.

Looks like the transformer wasn't properly rated for voltage or it was
slightly roasted by an over-current condition. It could be a pretty
common part. From my experience these little matching transformers
tend to have little bass response below about 200Hz which is a good
thing for reverb spring lines. This means just about any type in that
ballpark range would work well. The winding resistances of 2.14K and
310R is a ratio of about 6.9:1 and is probably close to the turns
ratio because the wire, for such low power applications, is sometimes
the same gauge in both windings. "But" it is only a guess.

If you will use a tie-wrap, at least add an in-line low current fuse
to the ps tap, as one can't be sure the xfrmr won't short again.

A*s*i*m*o*v

... Dunno if we'll get that past the CSA und UL 'owever.
For the archives: Repaired and write up with other Valverb info will be on
URL below by end of 2004

electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
http://homepages.tcp.co.uk/~diverse



>
 
"Jim Adney" bravely wrote to "All" (22 Dec 04 19:59:28)
--- on the heady topic of "Re: Magnetic sheilding"

JA> From: Jim Adney <jadney@vwtype3.org>

JA> On Sunday, 19 Dec 2004 23:34:44 -500 "Asimov"
JA> <Asimov@-removethis-bbs.juxtaposition.dynip.com> wrote:

Ferromagnetism is the most important property for an
effective magnetic shield.
JA> Non-ferromagnetic, but conductive, materials are effective magnetic
JA> shields if the material is thick enough and the magnetic field is AC.

JA> For copper the skin depth is about 1 cm at 60 Hz. Since the
JA> conductivity of alum is worse than that of copper, it's skin depth
JA> will be thicker.

JA> A thickness of 1 skin depth will reduce the field by 1/e, which isn't
JA> all that great.

JA> So, I have to agree, that alum shielding would probably have to be
JA> close to 1" thick before it would make much of a difference.

JA> But even shielding with Mu-metal is difficult. By far, the best
JA> solution is to attack the problem at the source.


The difference between copper and aluminum isn't so bad because it
works out to be the square root of the conductivity ratio or about 3/4
less here. What is worse is that the equations for skin depth are only
accurate for a conductor thickness greater than 3 skin depths. So
indeed a 1" thickness of aluminum isn't practical even to be found.

A*s*i*m*o*v

.... "Bother!" said Pooh, as he saw the sparks and smelled the smoke.
 
On Sat, 25 Dec 2004 01:06:18 GMT, "NSM" <nowrite@to.me> wrote:

"zap" <zap@zapzap.com> wrote in message
news:41cc67c1$0$31709$61c65585@un-2park-reader-01.sydney.pipenetworks.com.au...
|
| NSM <nowrite@to.me> wrote in message
| news:hi%yd.21005$KO5.11046@clgrps13...
| > Rod Speed <rod_speed@yahoo.com> wrote
|
| >> Yep, that entire quote is a pig ignorant steaming turd.
|
| > PLONK!
|
| Fat lot of good that will you do you, you stupid pig ignorant plonker.
|
| You seriously 'think' that anyone actually gives
| a flying red fuck what you do or do not read ?

Just as no-one cares about the droolings of a dumbass ocker like you. Go
screw a wallaby.
A Wallaby wouldn't have him...

Tom
 
On Sun, 26 Dec 2004 08:12:16 +1100, "Rod Speed" <rod_speed@yahoo.com>
wrote:

Some pathetic little wanker claiming to be
Tom MacIntyre <tom__macintyre@hotmail.com> wrote in
message news:nekrs01bhrhho8it18e3m9nbss4d5ri80n@4ax.com...
just the puerile silly shit thats all it can ever manage.
Is there a misspelling echo in here?

Tom
 
"James Sweet" bravely wrote to "All" (26 Dec 04 23:32:33)
--- on the heady topic of "Re: TV horizontal bars light in the background?"

JS> From: "James Sweet" <jamessweet@hotmail.com>
JS> Xref: aeinews sci.electronics.repair:4809


JS> "G" <skiffingNOSPAM@nbnet.nb.ca> wrote in message
JS> news:01c4eb4f$bb030ea0$45fca68e@ve1ajf...
Howdy all..........As it seems there's a lot of fine TV (and other!) techs
on here I thought I'd ask a question thats been bugging me for years. On
my 22+ year old RCA I've noticed for years a faint, approx 2-1/2" wide
horizontal "bar" in the background....just as if the picture was
at-a-different-depth while the bar slowly scrolls up the screen. Picture
isn't otherwise distorted and, most times is not very noticeable. I just

JS> This sounds like a "hum bar" and is usually caused by dried up
JS> electrolytic capacitors in the power supply.

Parasitic regeneration in the tuner due to dried bypass caps can also
result in hum bars and even though there is very little supply ripple.

A*s*i*m*o*v

.... Reactance: your imaginary friend.
 
On Wed, 15 Dec 2004 05:51:02 GMT, "James Sweet"
<jamessweet@hotmail.com> wrote:

"davexnet02" <davexnetzerotwo@hooya!.com> wrote in message
news:4fjvr05g0ej2r1i878klsuq0k9i97gf7cr@4ax.com...
On Wed, 15 Dec 2004 00:11:54 -0500, "Leonard Caillouet" <no@no.com
wrote:


"RonKZ650" <ronkz650@aol.comnospam> wrote in message
news:20041215000729.05986.00001339@mb-m19.aol.com...
As I mentioned, the CRT filaments are not lit at all.
I'll check the CRT board to see if anything shows up there.

Look for cracked solder joints on the neck board or bulging or leaking
electrolytic capacitors. It's quite possible the picture was washed out due
to low filament voltage.

I made some progress on this. I turned up the G2 voltage a
little, and I was able to see that the filaments were lit,
but still no picture.

I pulled the main chassis from the TV and inspected the
underside. I paid attention to the area's close to the
FBT, as this seemed to be where the horizontal and vertical
deflection business was done.

I resoldered some connections, to capacitors, resisitors,
and transformers, anything I could see that looked bad.

I put it back in and turned on the TV.
For 20 minutes, nothing but sound & black screen, (as before)
then all of a sudden - a very weird, electrical crackle, a flash
of bright blue on the screen, followed by normal operation 2 seconds
later. It's been working fine for two days now.
Even the line pairing I was getting in the top half of the screen
is greatly dimished.

A couple of observations though, when I turn of the TV now,
there's a brief display of color spots on the screen in the
center - just for a few seconds. First time I've seen that
on this set.
Second, the G2 voltage. I marked it with a pen before I disturbed
it, and retuned it as close as is possible with this method, but I
don't think it's exact. Is it a big deal if it's slightly out?
regards,
Dave
 
I would still think you should have the set properly checked by a tech who
is experienced with the model series of Sony set that you have.

Things like the power supply, scans, and power supply should be properly
checked. There is a procedure for setting up the G2 voltage. The details
should be in the service manual for your set. If it a little low, it is not
going to be bad for the CRT, but if it is high, it will accelerate its
deteriation, due to excessive beam current.

You may still have an intermittant solder connection in the set, or
something that is mechanicaly not right, going by how you described that it
came back to life, and is reacting now. This should be properly checked.

Take care about the safety issues when working on TV sets. This is most
important for yourself.

--

Jerry G.
=====

"davexnet02" <davexnetzerotwo@hooya!.com> wrote in message
news:u154t0t310ss7g0gb0m3a2cn0el620dist@4ax.com...
On Wed, 15 Dec 2004 05:51:02 GMT, "James Sweet"
<jamessweet@hotmail.com> wrote:

"davexnet02" <davexnetzerotwo@hooya!.com> wrote in message
news:4fjvr05g0ej2r1i878klsuq0k9i97gf7cr@4ax.com...
On Wed, 15 Dec 2004 00:11:54 -0500, "Leonard Caillouet" <no@no.com
wrote:


"RonKZ650" <ronkz650@aol.comnospam> wrote in message
news:20041215000729.05986.00001339@mb-m19.aol.com...
As I mentioned, the CRT filaments are not lit at all.
I'll check the CRT board to see if anything shows up there.

Look for cracked solder joints on the neck board or bulging or leaking
electrolytic capacitors. It's quite possible the picture was washed out due
to low filament voltage.

I made some progress on this. I turned up the G2 voltage a
little, and I was able to see that the filaments were lit,
but still no picture.

I pulled the main chassis from the TV and inspected the
underside. I paid attention to the area's close to the
FBT, as this seemed to be where the horizontal and vertical
deflection business was done.

I resoldered some connections, to capacitors, resisitors,
and transformers, anything I could see that looked bad.

I put it back in and turned on the TV.
For 20 minutes, nothing but sound & black screen, (as before)
then all of a sudden - a very weird, electrical crackle, a flash
of bright blue on the screen, followed by normal operation 2 seconds
later. It's been working fine for two days now.
Even the line pairing I was getting in the top half of the screen
is greatly dimished.

A couple of observations though, when I turn of the TV now,
there's a brief display of color spots on the screen in the
center - just for a few seconds. First time I've seen that
on this set.
Second, the G2 voltage. I marked it with a pen before I disturbed
it, and retuned it as close as is possible with this method, but I
don't think it's exact. Is it a big deal if it's slightly out?
regards,
Dave
 
On Wed, 29 Dec 2004 02:30:27 GMT, davexnet02
<davexnetzerotwo@hooya!.com> wrote:

On Wed, 15 Dec 2004 05:51:02 GMT, "James Sweet"
jamessweet@hotmail.com> wrote:


"davexnet02" <davexnetzerotwo@hooya!.com> wrote in message
news:4fjvr05g0ej2r1i878klsuq0k9i97gf7cr@4ax.com...
On Wed, 15 Dec 2004 00:11:54 -0500, "Leonard Caillouet" <no@no.com
wrote:


"RonKZ650" <ronkz650@aol.comnospam> wrote in message
news:20041215000729.05986.00001339@mb-m19.aol.com...
As I mentioned, the CRT filaments are not lit at all.
I'll check the CRT board to see if anything shows up there.

Look for cracked solder joints on the neck board or bulging or leaking
electrolytic capacitors. It's quite possible the picture was washed out due
to low filament voltage.

I made some progress on this. I turned up the G2 voltage a
little, and I was able to see that the filaments were lit,
but still no picture.

I pulled the main chassis from the TV and inspected the
underside. I paid attention to the area's close to the
FBT, as this seemed to be where the horizontal and vertical
deflection business was done.

I resoldered some connections, to capacitors, resisitors,
and transformers, anything I could see that looked bad.

I put it back in and turned on the TV.
For 20 minutes, nothing but sound & black screen, (as before)
then all of a sudden - a very weird, electrical crackle, a flash
of bright blue on the screen, followed by normal operation 2 seconds
later. It's been working fine for two days now.
Even the line pairing I was getting in the top half of the screen
is greatly dimished.
The heat finally caused a G1 short in the CRT to remove itself for
now, I think.

Tom
A couple of observations though, when I turn of the TV now,
there's a brief display of color spots on the screen in the
center - just for a few seconds. First time I've seen that
on this set.
Second, the G2 voltage. I marked it with a pen before I disturbed
it, and retuned it as close as is possible with this method, but I
don't think it's exact. Is it a big deal if it's slightly out?
regards,
Dave
 
"Robert Baer" <robertbaer@earthlink.net> schreef in bericht
news:41D3DDDB.90C1B4B6@earthlink.net...
** W A R N I N G **
That URL has a nasty virus!
What kind? I clicked it yesterday and saw an unshaven Santa with a
gun. Other than that, I have not noticed anything strange yet.

--
Thanks, Frank.
(remove 'q' and 'invalid' when replying by email)
 
Figured I'd cross-post this one over to sci.electronics.repair to see
if you guys have some advice on it.


rrod...@carolina.rr.com wrote:
I found this post with a Google search.

I've had the same thing occur out of the blue with my SD-P5191 as
well.
The problem description is the exact same as Ray's.

Any advice you can give would be great. I suspect power supply
assembly
may need replaced, but would like some expert advice prior to
ordering
the assembly, since it's $250.

Thanks,
Richard Roddy
rroddy2REMOVE@REMOVE.carolina.rr.com

Ray Barker wrote:
Hi!

I hope I have the right audience here, I did notice Ryan's problem
was fixed. I hope you can save me a service call too.

I just moved the above beast into a new apartment. Worked fine for
a
few days and then the power wouldn't stay on. The relays clicked
on
then off after a few second. The standby power becomes inoperative
until main power is cycled or the plug is pulled and replaced.

Thinking it might just need a good clean, I popped the front off
and
vacuumed inside. After cleaning, I thought I'd try it with the
front
still off. Same thing happened but I notice a red LED on one of
the
circuit boards light up solid after the failure. After cycling
main
power, it would remain off until using the standby power again.

I've yet to test the quality of the power so that might be a
culprit.
Any other suggestions will be gratefully accepted.

Cheers!

--
Ray Barker
Voice: (416)947-1910
**To email, replace Canada's tree with its two letter code**
 
Could be anything from a bad solder connection to a bad cap to a shorted
CRT.

Make sure that you get it to someone who services Pioneer at the component
level rather than just board swapping, and has the service manual, if
possible.

Leonard

<rroddy2@carolina.rr.com> wrote in message
news:1104412814.092866.203280@c13g2000cwb.googlegroups.com...
Figured I'd cross-post this one over to sci.electronics.repair to see
if you guys have some advice on it.


rrod...@carolina.rr.com wrote:
I found this post with a Google search.

I've had the same thing occur out of the blue with my SD-P5191 as
well.
The problem description is the exact same as Ray's.

Any advice you can give would be great. I suspect power supply
assembly
may need replaced, but would like some expert advice prior to
ordering
the assembly, since it's $250.

Thanks,
Richard Roddy
rroddy2REMOVE@REMOVE.carolina.rr.com

Ray Barker wrote:
Hi!

I hope I have the right audience here, I did notice Ryan's problem
was fixed. I hope you can save me a service call too.

I just moved the above beast into a new apartment. Worked fine for
a
few days and then the power wouldn't stay on. The relays clicked
on
then off after a few second. The standby power becomes inoperative
until main power is cycled or the plug is pulled and replaced.

Thinking it might just need a good clean, I popped the front off
and
vacuumed inside. After cleaning, I thought I'd try it with the
front
still off. Same thing happened but I notice a red LED on one of
the
circuit boards light up solid after the failure. After cycling
main
power, it would remain off until using the standby power again.

I've yet to test the quality of the power so that might be a
culprit.
Any other suggestions will be gratefully accepted.

Cheers!

--
Ray Barker
Voice: (416)947-1910
**To email, replace Canada's tree with its two letter code**
 
"Anders F" <af-spam@hi5.dk> schreef in bericht
news:33icimF40u7rhU1@individual.net...
"Frank Bemelman" <f.bemelmanq@xs4all.invalid.nl> wrote in message
news:41d3f6c6$0$6209$e4fe514c@news.xs4all.nl...
"Robert Baer" <robertbaer@earthlink.net> schreef in bericht
news:41D3DDDB.90C1B4B6@earthlink.net...

** W A R N I N G **
That URL has a nasty virus!

What kind? I clicked it yesterday and saw an unshaven Santa with a
gun.

I guess a shaven Santa would be more scary for most ;-)

Other than that, I have not noticed anything strange yet.

You just wait *muhahaha*. ;oP
In any case all those virus warnings create more noise than they help!
People should just keep their anti-virus and windows updated - and don't
do
obvious stupid stuff ;-)
Clicking a valid url is not that bad, is it? I have no virus checker, never
had. I install the MS patches when I am advised to do so, and that's it.

--
Thanks, Frank.
(remove 'q' and 'invalid' when replying by email)
 
If you install MS patches that's a virus in itself that I would never want
on my computer. EVERY time I "download" MS stuff that is "recommended" my
computer screws up worse than it did prior to the download. I guess we
should have all taken the hint when Bill's entire system crashed in front of
the media when he was releasing Win2000 (or maybe it was 98??) Anyhow you
get the idea.



"Frank Bemelman" <f.bemelmanq@xs4all.invalid.nl> wrote in message
Clicking a valid url is not that bad, is it? I have no virus checker,
never
had. I install the MS patches when I am advised to do so, and that's it.

--
Thanks, Frank.
(remove 'q' and 'invalid' when replying by email)
 
On Thu, 30 Dec 2004 14:33:20 +0100, Frank Bemelman wrote:

"Anders F" <af-spam@hi5.dk> schreef in bericht
news:33icimF40u7rhU1@individual.net...
"Frank Bemelman" <f.bemelmanq@xs4all.invalid.nl> wrote in message
news:41d3f6c6$0$6209$e4fe514c@news.xs4all.nl...
"Robert Baer" <robertbaer@earthlink.net> schreef in bericht
news:41D3DDDB.90C1B4B6@earthlink.net...

** W A R N I N G **
That URL has a nasty virus!

What kind? I clicked it yesterday and saw an unshaven Santa with a
gun.

I guess a shaven Santa would be more scary for most ;-)

Other than that, I have not noticed anything strange yet.

You just wait *muhahaha*. ;oP
In any case all those virus warnings create more noise than they help!
People should just keep their anti-virus and windows updated - and don't
do
obvious stupid stuff ;-)

Clicking a valid url is not that bad, is it? I have no virus checker, never
had. I install the MS patches when I am advised to do so, and that's it.
Those patches won't stop a downloaded malware program you run. That
URL is unavailable now, but I run Antivir and I detected nothing bad
when I visited that link.
--
Best Regards,
Mike
 
On Thu, 30 Dec 2004 11:46:47 -0800, Barry & Nikki wrote:

If you install MS patches that's a virus in itself that I would never want
on my computer. EVERY time I "download" MS stuff that is "recommended" my
computer screws up worse than it did prior to the download. I guess we
should have all taken the hint when Bill's entire system crashed in front of
the media when he was releasing Win2000 (or maybe it was 98??) Anyhow you
get the idea.

I *think* XP SP1 actually helped me. I read that it at least kills
the Windows Messenging Service which nailed me once. I was connected
for less than 10 min getting the latest ZoneAlarm when I realized I
didn't install the old one. Bam! Spyware Doom on me.

<definitions>
du-ma-nhieu - pronounced "doom on you"
Vietnamese for "Go f??k yourself."

"ca-man" -pronounced "come on" for "thank you" or
"ca-ma-nhieu" - pronounced "come on you"
for "thank you very much."
</definitions>

--
Best Regards,
Mike
 

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