Toshiba TV29C90 problem; Image fades to black...

[Chuck]

It sounds to me like you are on your own. From your description, there is
an internal problem in the camera's power circuitry. It's doubtful that you
would be able to obtain the parts to fix the camera if you knew which ones
were bad. On top of that, the electronics are miniaturized to the point that
special repair techniques are needed to repair such things.
Perhaps you should invest in an extended warrenty when you buy a
replacement.

"Fred" <testing@testing1212mouse.com> wrote in message
news:5LIud.6184$xa6.5315@trnddc09...

I neglected to give you one more piece of info that might help...

Just now, to be sure the camera is still doing the same thing, I put in
brand new batteries, turned it on. It has been sitting unused for a month
or more.

Here's what happens...

I turn it on and the lens extends automatically as it should.

I hit the shutter button and one photo takes fine.

I use the LCD display to change various settings and it works fine.

Then I take another photo - just fine. Then the 3rd photo, I get the bad
battery warning on the LCD.

Sometimes I am able to operate the zoom once or twice before dying. Other
times, I can't even get the 1st photo to take.

Also... the batteries are NOT being drained. I have a battery tester and
they are still registering 100% charged when the camera fails.

Hope this gives you more info.

Fred
lexmark8792@yahooREMOVETHESE.com

"Fred" <testing@testing1212mouse.com> wrote in message
news:QBIud.6181$xa6.845@trnddc09...
Dear Mr. Williams:

Finally!!! An ACTUAL person who works for Olympus!! This is great to
see
you posting here!

I would really appreciate your helping me solve this problem. I have
contacted your technical support and they are unable to help me. (Please
do
not give me any more Olympus phone numbers as I have called them all and
they are of no help.)

I have a C700. The power circuit has a fault. *** This is not a problem
with
batteries, battery connections or power wiring. **** I am familiar with
electronic troubleshooting and I have eliminated any external source of
the
problem. I have also contact at least a dozen other users of this camera
series who have the identical problem.

My question is this...

Where can I obtain service documentation? I have been told that this
documentation is available but not for the public or camera shops. This
camera was purchased less than 3 years ago and I would like to get
service
documentation - such as schematics or parts list.

Note that I already have every piece of PDF literature from the olympus
website and, although well written, it is all operator information and of
no
help in this case.

Olympus charges $155 flat rate to repair this camera - regardless of what
the problem is. This is more than the camera is worth to me.

In concluding, I will say that I will NEVER buy another Olympus digital
camera in the future if I cannot repair this one for under $100.

If you would like to contact me directly about this, please feel free to
use
the email address below.

Thank you.

Fred
lexmark8792@yahooREMOVE.com








"Martin" <NOSPAM.martin.norris@excite.com.REMOVE> wrote in message
news:Ujltd.2113$934.1075@newsfe3-gui.ntli.net...
FYI :

Dear Mr. Norris,

I acknowledge receipt of your e-mail and note its content accordingly.

For marketing purposes, a commercial decision was made to sell only the
black version of the C-770 camera in Europe. The silver version is
obtainable, although this would be from dealers that do not obtain
their
stock from Olympus Europa and I would therefore have no details with
regard
to them. I would, however, respectfully advise that you browse the
internet
for web stockists that may carry this item.

I trust that the above information is of use.

Regards,

David Williams

Customer Support
Olympus UK Limited
2-8 Honduras Street,
London
EC1Y 0TX.

mailto:customer-support@olympus.uk.com
URL: http://www.olympus.co.uk

"Martin" <NOSPAM.martin.norris@excite.com.REMOVE> wrote in message
news:iH0td.85$bc4.40@newsfe1-win.ntli.net...
I've been looking at the Olympus C770 on various sites. The UK
version
only seems to come in black, The Hong Kong imports on eBay are silver
aswell as the ones advertised in the US. I prefer the look of the
silver/chrome/brushed ali' model..

Apart from the cosmetics are there any technical diferences between
these?
Can you get a legitimate UK/EU warrantied silver model?

Thanks

Martin

---
Outgoing mail is AVG certified Virus Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
Version: 6.0.806 / Virus Database: 548 - Release Date: 12/5/2004

 

[Buster]

There is usually a capacitor on one of the boards that holds a charge
long enough to change batteries.
Buster

On Sun, 12 Dec 2004 10:27:06 +0800, Christopher Pollard
<xmastree@hotpop.com> wrote:

On Sat, 11 Dec 2004 22:28:34 GMT, Buster <nobody@nowhere.com> wrote:

Thanks for the offer, but they are free online to dealers. If you need
any others, let me know.

How similar is the c-750? And which is the bit that retains the date/time etc.
while changing the batteries?

 

[Ken Weitzel]

Christopher Pollard wrote:

On Mon, 13 Dec 2004 01:26:25 GMT, Buster <nobody@nowhere.com> wrote:


There is usually a capacitor on one of the boards that holds a charge
long enough to change batteries.


That's what I figured. The strange thing is that it remembers some of the
settings, but not all of them. The other strange thing is that if started losing
them (the settings) after I did a firmware upgrade...

It might still be under waranty, so I will probably let the experts look at it.
I'm not as sharp as I used to be. :-(

Hi Chris...

Hesitate to offer such a silly yet possible solution, but...

Is it possible that your firmware upgrade reset some of your
option settings, and you need to change your "all reset" ?

Camera in P or A/S/M mode; then:
Menu > Mode menu > Set > All Reset (on/off)

Take care.

Ken

 

[Christopher Pollard]

On Mon, 13 Dec 2004 06:11:11 GMT, Ken Weitzel <kweitzel@shaw.ca> wrote:

Hesitate to offer such a silly yet possible solution, but...

It's ok...

Is it possible that your firmware upgrade reset some of your
option settings, and you need to change your "all reset" ?

The 'all reset' is off. but goes back to the default "on" when I swap batteries.
The most annoying is the loss of time/date information. If it were an "all
reset" problem, the time and date should remain correct...

Thanks anyway.


From memory, the settings I need to put back to my preferred way are:
startup sound, default is on, I like off.
button sound, likewise
time/date, back to zero
picture quality setting.
all reset, back to "on"
full time af, back to "off"


However, custom button remains set to macro. I'm sure that's not the default
My mode is also still ok.

Bizarre
--
Chris Pollard


CG Internet café, Tagum City, Philippines
http://www.cginternet.net

 

[Big Bill]

On Mon, 13 Dec 2004 14:55:15 +0800, Christopher Pollard
<xmastree@hotpop.com> wrote:

On Mon, 13 Dec 2004 06:11:11 GMT, Ken Weitzel <kweitzel@shaw.ca> wrote:

Hesitate to offer such a silly yet possible solution, but...

It's ok...

Is it possible that your firmware upgrade reset some of your
option settings, and you need to change your "all reset" ?

The 'all reset' is off. but goes back to the default "on" when I swap batteries.
The most annoying is the loss of time/date information. If it were an "all
reset" problem, the time and date should remain correct...

Thanks anyway.


From memory, the settings I need to put back to my preferred way are:
startup sound, default is on, I like off.
button sound, likewise
time/date, back to zero
picture quality setting.
all reset, back to "on"
full time af, back to "off"


However, custom button remains set to macro. I'm sure that's not the default
My mode is also still ok.

Bizarre

I will sugest that he capicator that retains the power for the BIOS is
going bad. When you change batteries, it's not holding enough power
for long enough to maintain all settings; the fact that *some* change
every time while others don't seems to indicate this.

--
Bill Funk
Change "g" to "a"

 

[Fred]

Buster, is mine the kind of problem you might be able to work on ?

"Buster" <nobody@nowhere.com> wrote in message
news:usrpr0h337lc3osjms8j2tb9ggqescc8om@4ax.com...

There is usually a capacitor on one of the boards that holds a charge
long enough to change batteries.
Buster

On Sun, 12 Dec 2004 10:27:06 +0800, Christopher Pollard
xmastree@hotpop.com> wrote:

On Sat, 11 Dec 2004 22:28:34 GMT, Buster <nobody@nowhere.com> wrote:

Thanks for the offer, but they are free online to dealers. If you need
any others, let me know.

How similar is the c-750? And which is the bit that retains the date/time
etc.
while changing the batteries?

 

[Fred]

Yes, you're right. Olympus tech support isn't worth a $H|T, including this
clown. I never did hear back from the last Olympus email I sent - all I got
was the automatic reply sympathizing in a simulated heart-felt way to "your
problem."

And, yes, extended warranty should be mandatory with any Olympus
electronics -- IF you're dumb enough to buy one in the first place.

"Chuck" <cdkuder@nspmmsn.com> wrote in message
news:HG5vd.25846$233.16712@okepread05...

It sounds to me like you are on your own. From your description, there is
an internal problem in the camera's power circuitry. It's doubtful that
you
would be able to obtain the parts to fix the camera if you knew which ones
were bad. On top of that, the electronics are miniaturized to the point
that
special repair techniques are needed to repair such things.
Perhaps you should invest in an extended warrenty when you buy a
replacement.

"Fred" <testing@testing1212mouse.com> wrote in message
news:5LIud.6184$xa6.5315@trnddc09...
I neglected to give you one more piece of info that might help...

Just now, to be sure the camera is still doing the same thing, I put in
brand new batteries, turned it on. It has been sitting unused for a
month
or more.

Here's what happens...

I turn it on and the lens extends automatically as it should.

I hit the shutter button and one photo takes fine.

I use the LCD display to change various settings and it works fine.

Then I take another photo - just fine. Then the 3rd photo, I get the bad
battery warning on the LCD.

Sometimes I am able to operate the zoom once or twice before dying.
Other
times, I can't even get the 1st photo to take.

Also... the batteries are NOT being drained. I have a battery tester
and
they are still registering 100% charged when the camera fails.

Hope this gives you more info.

Fred
lexmark8792@yahooREMOVETHESE.com

"Fred" <testing@testing1212mouse.com> wrote in message
news:QBIud.6181$xa6.845@trnddc09...
Dear Mr. Williams:

Finally!!! An ACTUAL person who works for Olympus!! This is great to
see
you posting here!

I would really appreciate your helping me solve this problem. I have
contacted your technical support and they are unable to help me.
(Please
do
not give me any more Olympus phone numbers as I have called them all
and
they are of no help.)

I have a C700. The power circuit has a fault. *** This is not a problem
with
batteries, battery connections or power wiring. **** I am familiar
with
electronic troubleshooting and I have eliminated any external source of
the
problem. I have also contact at least a dozen other users of this
camera
series who have the identical problem.

My question is this...

Where can I obtain service documentation? I have been told that this
documentation is available but not for the public or camera shops.
This
camera was purchased less than 3 years ago and I would like to get
service
documentation - such as schematics or parts list.

Note that I already have every piece of PDF literature from the olympus
website and, although well written, it is all operator information and
of
no
help in this case.

Olympus charges $155 flat rate to repair this camera - regardless of
what
the problem is. This is more than the camera is worth to me.

In concluding, I will say that I will NEVER buy another Olympus digital
camera in the future if I cannot repair this one for under $100.

If you would like to contact me directly about this, please feel free
to
use
the email address below.

Thank you.

Fred
lexmark8792@yahooREMOVE.com








"Martin" <NOSPAM.martin.norris@excite.com.REMOVE> wrote in message
news:Ujltd.2113$934.1075@newsfe3-gui.ntli.net...
FYI :

Dear Mr. Norris,

I acknowledge receipt of your e-mail and note its content
accordingly.

For marketing purposes, a commercial decision was made to sell only
the
black version of the C-770 camera in Europe. The silver version is
obtainable, although this would be from dealers that do not obtain
their
stock from Olympus Europa and I would therefore have no details with
regard
to them. I would, however, respectfully advise that you browse the
internet
for web stockists that may carry this item.

I trust that the above information is of use.

Regards,

David Williams

Customer Support
Olympus UK Limited
2-8 Honduras Street,
London
EC1Y 0TX.

mailto:customer-support@olympus.uk.com
URL: http://www.olympus.co.uk

"Martin" <NOSPAM.martin.norris@excite.com.REMOVE> wrote in message
news:iH0td.85$bc4.40@newsfe1-win.ntli.net...
I've been looking at the Olympus C770 on various sites. The UK
version
only seems to come in black, The Hong Kong imports on eBay are
silver
aswell as the ones advertised in the US. I prefer the look of the
silver/chrome/brushed ali' model..

Apart from the cosmetics are there any technical diferences between
these?
Can you get a legitimate UK/EU warrantied silver model?

Thanks

Martin









---
Outgoing mail is AVG certified Virus Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
Version: 6.0.806 / Virus Database: 548 - Release Date: 12/5/2004

 

[Buster]

Sorry, most of our digital camera repairs end up going to the
manufacturer, unless they are an obviously broken external piece. The
older the camera, the less time available w/o batteries before it
forgets. My old D450 (3 years old) forgets in about 20 minutes. The
current cameras seem to last a day or two. Have an extra set of
batteries on hand and swap them when you need to charge.
Buster

On Tue, 14 Dec 2004 05:34:02 GMT, "Fred"
<testing@testing1212mouse.com> wrote:

Buster, is mine the kind of problem you might be able to work on ?

"Buster" <nobody@nowhere.com> wrote in message
news:usrpr0h337lc3osjms8j2tb9ggqescc8om@4ax.com...
There is usually a capacitor on one of the boards that holds a charge
long enough to change batteries.
Buster

On Sun, 12 Dec 2004 10:27:06 +0800, Christopher Pollard
xmastree@hotpop.com> wrote:

On Sat, 11 Dec 2004 22:28:34 GMT, Buster <nobody@nowhere.com> wrote:

Thanks for the offer, but they are free online to dealers. If you need
any others, let me know.

How similar is the c-750? And which is the bit that retains the date/time
etc.
while changing the batteries?

 

[Christopher Pollard]

On Tue, 14 Dec 2004 14:16:11 GMT, Buster <nobody@nowhere.com> wrote:

forgets. My old D450 (3 years old) forgets in about 20 minutes. The
current cameras seem to last a day or two. Have an extra set of
batteries on hand and swap them when you need to charge.

My 750 is less than a year old, and I have two sets of NiMH cells.
I can swap them over in under 10 seconds but still it forgets.
I even tried opening the cover and closing it again in 2 seconds, it forgot.

As it works otherwise, I don't want to send it away for repair just yet. But I
have a D70 on my Christmas list, so once I have that then I can manage without
it for a while.

--
Chris Pollard


CG Internet café, Tagum City, Philippines
http://www.cginternet.net

 

[davexnet02]

On Wed, 15 Dec 2004 00:11:54 -0500, "Leonard Caillouet" <no@no.com>
wrote:

"RonKZ650" <ronkz650@aol.comnospam> wrote in message
news:20041215000729.05986.00001339@mb-m19.aol.com...
As I mentioned, the CRT filaments are not lit at all.
I'll check the CRT board to see if anything shows up there.
Thanks,

If the filiments are not lit, you have no HV.

Not necessarily. Could just be an open on the filament line from the FBT.
Could be an open filament.

Leonard

Thanks for the info - as I mentioned I *suspect* there

is HT, because I get the sense and sounds of static on the
screen when I first turn it on. I get normal audio,
but no raster at all.

Appreciate all the comments!
Dave

 

[James Sweet]

"davexnet02" <davexnetzerotwo@hooya!.com> wrote in message
news:4fjvr05g0ej2r1i878klsuq0k9i97gf7cr@4ax.com...

On Wed, 15 Dec 2004 00:11:54 -0500, "Leonard Caillouet" <no@no.com
wrote:


"RonKZ650" <ronkz650@aol.comnospam> wrote in message
news:20041215000729.05986.00001339@mb-m19.aol.com...
As I mentioned, the CRT filaments are not lit at all.
I'll check the CRT board to see if anything shows up there.
Thanks,

If the filiments are not lit, you have no HV.

Not necessarily. Could just be an open on the filament line from the
FBT.
Could be an open filament.

Leonard

Thanks for the info - as I mentioned I *suspect* there
is HT, because I get the sense and sounds of static on the
screen when I first turn it on. I get normal audio,
but no raster at all.

Appreciate all the comments!
Dave

Look for cracked solder joints on the neck board or bulging or leaking
electrolytic capacitors. It's quite possible the picture was washed out due
to low filament voltage.

 

[davexnet02]

On Wed, 15 Dec 2004 05:51:02 GMT, "James Sweet"
<jamessweet@hotmail.com> wrote:

"davexnet02" <davexnetzerotwo@hooya!.com> wrote in message
news:4fjvr05g0ej2r1i878klsuq0k9i97gf7cr@4ax.com...
On Wed, 15 Dec 2004 00:11:54 -0500, "Leonard Caillouet" <no@no.com
wrote:


"RonKZ650" <ronkz650@aol.comnospam> wrote in message
news:20041215000729.05986.00001339@mb-m19.aol.com...
As I mentioned, the CRT filaments are not lit at all.
I'll check the CRT board to see if anything shows up there.
Thanks,

If the filiments are not lit, you have no HV.

Not necessarily. Could just be an open on the filament line from the
FBT.
Could be an open filament.

Leonard

Thanks for the info - as I mentioned I *suspect* there
is HT, because I get the sense and sounds of static on the
screen when I first turn it on. I get normal audio,
but no raster at all.

Appreciate all the comments!
Dave

Look for cracked solder joints on the neck board or bulging or leaking
electrolytic capacitors. It's quite possible the picture was washed out due
to low filament voltage.

Thanks James, I'll check it carefully.

The washed out picture went hand in hand with something
else I thought suspicious. It happened at the same time
it developed the blue cast, and the blue cast itself occurred
after particularly bright and contrasty scenes were sustained for
a while.

At the beginning, if I kept the contrast low, after a couple of
hours, the blue cast dissipated. But towards the end, the blue cast
was more or less constant. This whole episode has been about 3 months.

I think it was leonard who said that it sounded as if the tube
was failing.
Dave

 

[William Graham]

"Christopher Pollard" <xmastree@hotpop.com> wrote in message
news:387vr01q1fr6pf7h60c4lqc2jk17m0dal8@4ax.com...

On Tue, 14 Dec 2004 14:16:11 GMT, Buster <nobody@nowhere.com> wrote:

forgets. My old D450 (3 years old) forgets in about 20 minutes. The
current cameras seem to last a day or two. Have an extra set of
batteries on hand and swap them when you need to charge.

My 750 is less than a year old, and I have two sets of NiMH cells.
I can swap them over in under 10 seconds but still it forgets.
I even tried opening the cover and closing it again in 2 seconds, it
forgot.

They usually accomplish this with a fairly large (electrically) capacitor
across the battery. While the batteries are removed, the voltage necessary
to preserve the memory corcuits (which require a very small amount of
current) is maintained by the capacitor. If this capacitor is broken, or
disconnected from the battery output connections, then the camera will work
normally, but fail to hold its memory while you are changing batteries....I
would think that this would be very easy to fix, and it should be a cheap
repair bill......

As it works otherwise, I don't want to send it away for repair just yet.
But I
have a D70 on my Christmas list, so once I have that then I can manage
without
it for a while.

--
Chris Pollard


CG Internet café, Tagum City, Philippines
http://www.cginternet.net

 

[Asimov]

"roger.s@p.net.nz" bravely wrote to "All" (15 Dec 04 21:53:56)
--- on the heady topic of "Philips PM3055/Fluke PM3055 Scope, cold start problems."

ro> From: roger.s@p.net.nz


ro> When the Unite is cold the overvoltage SCR will fire, replaced the
ro> SCR, you can also blow freeze on the SCR and it will latch.

ro> The over voltage circuity is on the other end of the board, and all
ro> voltages are OK.

ro> Could be that the DV/DT specs of the SCR are to low or the SCR specs
ro> change when its cold, or the inverter is running to fast

ro> Has a look at some specs and this is funny as this problem could only
ro> happen when the SCR get hot..


ro> This Scope is not mine and has been sent to Philips many times, but
ro> they gave up on it in the end.


ro> There are 4 Diodes been added around the SCR that are not shown on the
ro> circuit, may be that was a Philips attempt to fix it.


ro> SCR BT151 is a low gate sensitivity & DV/DT 200v/us

ro> Also sold as a Fluke PM3055


ro> Any one know of any mods for this, or the frequency of the PSU
ro> Inverter.

ro> Thanks

You might try modifying the circuit by adding a snubber network across
the SCR's anode to cathode, (physically close to the device to
minimize inductive effects). This consists of a low value resistor
(with diode) and capacitor in series but the proper values depend on
the amount of current involved. As long as the product Rload x C is
greater than your 200v/us. Where Rload is approximately the applied
voltage divided by current, the resistor R is to discharge C safely,
etc...

: o +V
: |
: Rload
: |
: +----+--D|--.
: a | `--R---|
: SCR |
: g o-/| k C
: _|_ _|_
: /// ///

A*s*i*m*o*v

.... The current limits placed are based on resistance

 

[geo73]

For a good and cheap solution to your problem,
try contact the person below:

Santa Clauss
Nomoneyrepair 10 Str.
Wishtorepairmycamera
Dreamland

As subject please attach:
Dear Santa, please send me a new camera.

 

[Fred]

YEOOOOOOOOOOOOOOWW!!! ROFLMAO!!!!!!!!!!!!! (wrong answer).

"geo73" <george_papastavrou@hotmail.com> wrote in message news:cprahe$mk6$1@usenet.otenet.gr...
For a good and cheap solution to your problem,
try contact the person below:

Santa Clauss
Nomoneyrepair 10 Str.
Wishtorepairmycamera
Dreamland

As subject please attach:
Dear Santa, please send me a new camera.

 

[Asimov]

"NSM" bravely wrote to "All" (18 Dec 04 19:13:08)
--- on the heady topic of "Re: Magnetic sheilding"

What are you thinking, man?! Aluminum is about as good as a piece of
paper in holding any magnetic flux. Perhaps something easily found
like galvanized sheet steel is more likely to work if placed in close
proximity to the device to protect and grounded (to avoid static build
up). Even something like a metal shelf might work but then there is
always the problem of the colour purity being thrown out of whack.


NS> From: "NSM" <nowrite@to.me>

NS> "Adam" <kinema@gmail.com> wrote in message
NS> news:j%Ywd.2656$9j5.2486@newsread3.news.pas.earthlink.net...
NS> | Not shielding that's magnetic but rather shielding to block those
NS> | annoying rotating magnetic field radiating from the neighbor's
NS> apartment. ...
NS> | What materials would not only work but wouldn't require me to sell
NS> any | appendages?

NS> I'd be inclined to try sheets of aluminium - say 4 ft x 4 ft sections
NS> of 20#. They aren't expensive and might help as the eddy currents tend
NS> to reduce the magnetic effects. Other methods become more difficult to
NS> use - or pay for.

NS> BTW, a different monitor might work better.

NS> N

.... Of course it's grounded! ...watch, ...YEEEEEAAAAAAAAHHHHHHHH!!!!

 

[Asimov]

"James Sweet" bravely wrote to "All" (19 Dec 04 04:22:03)
--- on the heady topic of "Re: HV Probe construction advice"

JS> From: "James Sweet" <jamessweet@hotmail.com>

JS> "NSM" <nowrite@to.me> wrote in message
JS> news:F37xd.5807$KO5.1825@clgrps13... >

"Damian Menscher" <menscher+usenet@uiuc.edu> wrote in message
news:cq2t33$vl6$1@news.ks.uiuc.edu...

| Thanks to you and everyone else for the advice. I'll certainly think
| more carefully about this (and probably just use a real HV probe).

If you ever have any doubts about the power of electricity, watch the
episode of "The Beverly Hillbillies" where the bear eats granny's love
letter and Jethro comes up with a plan to X-ray the bear.

JS> I would hardly think Beverly Hillbillies to be a good source of
JS> information on electricity safety, anything in a TV show like that is
JS> pure fabrication, it may coincide with real life but no more likely
JS> than what any random person would assume to be true.


I'm afraid many people were also introduced to electricity thanks to
Uncle Fester in the TV show "The Addams Family". I always got a kick
by him lighting a bulb in his mouth and letting smoke out his ears.

A*s*i*m*o*v

.... I worked hard to attach the electrodes to it.

 

[Asimov]

"NSM" bravely wrote to "All" (19 Dec 04 19:27:07)
--- on the heady topic of "Re: Magnetic sheilding"

NS> From: "NSM" <nowrite@to.me>

NS> Take a video tape degausser and hold it close to a sheet of aluminium
NS> (or copper). Note what happens. Physics theory will now tell you that
NS> the conductive material is not 'amplifying or enhancing' the magnetic
NS> field. Think it through.

NS> Remember, the OP was looking for 'cheap enough to try'. That does not
NS> include 6 foot squares of 1/4" mild steel plate.

What you are doing with the bulk eraser is inducing a current by the
conductor cutting the flux lines of a changing AC field/

Self-induction and eddy currents is not the same thing as a material
being ferromagnetic. Aluminum is not in the list of ferromagnetic
materials. Ferromagnetism is the most important property for an
effective magnetic shield.

A*s*i*m*o*v

.... Reactance: your imaginary friend.

 

[James Horn]

Buster - would you have access to the D-460 camera drawings? Many
thanks!!

Jim Horn

In alt.comp.periphs.dcameras Buster <nobody@nowhere.com> wrote:

Thanks for the offer, but they are free online to dealers. If you need
any others, let me know.
Thanks,
Buster
On Sat, 11 Dec 2004 20:20:43 GMT, "Fred"
testing@testing1212mouse.com> wrote:

Buster!! You are a fine and wonderful fellow!!! This is a great help! If
you would like to send me your snail mail address, I will gladly drop
something in the mail to you.

lexmark8792@yahooREMOVETHESE.com

Fred

"Buster" <nobody@nowhere.com> wrote in message
news:b32ir01il99vbmv8g3cf2s4teo47593suc@4ax.com...
I have posted a copy of the Olympus parts drawing and list for the
C700 at http://home.twcny.rr.com/littleblackdogs/C700.pdf
Hope this helps,
Buster