Toshiba TV29C90 problem; Image fades to black...

[Kota]

"Per-Olof Ahl" <Per-Olof.ahlnospam@swipnet.se> wrote in message news:<biiu59$f3f$1@yggdrasil.utfors.se>...

I already ordered and received the kit TZS9EK0021 you mentioned. It
contains all the items you said. The chip on the PCB however, is the
VDP3108A, so I suppose its the new one. The chip in the kit also says
VDP3108A. I suppose I can use this chip to replace, and not use the
provided EPROM. Or should I still order another replacement?

As the price is about the same here in sweden for the kit VS the
"VDP3108A PPA1" i allways order the kit.

If i remember correctly the VDP3108A on that kit is the "A1" version
of the VDP , are you sure it isnt printed "A1" on the ic on that kit?

If it is, and the faulty VDP hasnt that mark "PP A1" or "A1" then you
need to change the eprom and add the capacitors!

/ Per-Olof

Thanks Per-Olof

I already performed the surgery succesfully. I did use the provided
EPROM and caps. I also tried the old EPROM after the operation. It
worked. Nevertheless the program inside it was different from the new
one, so I did put the new EPROM in.
If I remember correctly there was an A1 mark on the new processor,
while on the old one there wasn't, so you're correct.

Erik

 

[Paul Landregan]

goggle.

"garfield" <jenncyoung@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:Ydt3b.61477$Rz6.82097@news1.mts.net...

I am new to the group. Are there archives available for viewing? If so,
how do I access them?

 

[Digi Man]

replace this fusable resistor with 15 Ohm/0,5W
replace 22uF/25V capacitor in primary of the +5Vst.by trafo.
replace the capacitor in the input of the 7805.
The 7805 may also need replacement (not very offen).
Replace the fusable resistor 4,7Ohm/2W in the primary of the +5Vst.by trafo
if open or decolored

"G. Fischbach" <gfischba@bcpl.net> wrote in message
news:3F4E10B0.E875FDB8@bcpl.net...

I have a Deer DR-250 ATX power supply with a burned up resistor that
feeds pin 12 of a TL494 ic (pulse width mod) I need the value of this
resistor or even better a schematic of the complete power supply.

Gerry

 

[Anonymous]

Sorry for top post.

The burner was HP 8100i, is that a good model?

Theway I handle the discs is using two fingers, one through the hole in the middle of the disc and the other is on the edge of the disk. Scratch-free on both sides of the disc. I am very meticulous about using anything.

I am no physicist, but surely they could have come up with something that lasts. It seems to me vinyl records last longer than CDs under normal use.

Having a cartridge or some protective gear shouldnt be a problem, they just have to incorporate that into the standards so that everyone follows, much like VHS video tapes. Smaller really means better!? I trade size for reliability. The CD players or other CDROM , CDRAM readers should be able to accept a disk with a cartridge (Jewell case?). It is still portable. I think the culture has put cost/money at the wrong priority. Surely business has to make money but shouldnt safety and quality be the first priority!? A recent example would be the Columbia Shuttle, I cant believe NASAs management has put cost and schedule above safety. That kind of thinking has costed several human lives....

Sorry for the sidetrack but I think they are related.


I always try to get soemthing of high quality but everyone says their discs last. The new Sony boxes also say "Excellent Performance and Reliability" though doesnt say much at the back of the box. I rely on others experience on buying discs to give me more reliable information.

-=-
NOTE: This message was posted via one or more anonymous remailing services.

 

[Mark G]

Well I'm assuming the CRT is internally screwed then (still majorily
green).........can't believe a lightning storm could get that far to it.....

 

[Wayne Tiffany]

Go here:
http://groups.google.com/groups?hl=en&lr=&ie=UTF-8&group=sci.electronics.rep
air You can search and read to your heart's content. Enjoy the evening.

WT

"Paul Landregan" <plandregan@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:bilo19$amv45$1@ID-198833.news.uni-berlin.de...

goggle.

"garfield" <jenncyoung@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:Ydt3b.61477$Rz6.82097@news1.mts.net...
I am new to the group. Are there archives available for viewing? If
so,
how do I access them?

 

[Anonymous]

I am not sure if how you mean by conventional readers (such as CD player, etc?). I was just saying if they can accept as a standard for CDROM, CD-R or other CD mediums with the cartridge or some jewell case arrangement so that readers can accept them. All CD types should come with the same protection casing, not just CD-Rs. Much like the casing for the VHS tapes, the video tape machine will accept the tape with the plastic casing. Sometimes it costs more loosing data especially in the age of information.

Actually, FujiFilm CDs were among the CDs with errors. I thought they were good brand (two years ago.) I am still using Fujifilms. Would the newer ones be better than the old ones?

I am using the Plextor 40/12/40A now, is this a good burner?

you wrote

My counterclaim is not about size, its about interchangability. If you put a
CD-R inside a permanent cartridge enclosure, then you pretty much shot down one of the incentives to the success of the CD-R: being able to use it in
conventional readers.

-=-
NOTE: This message was posted via one or more anonymous remailing services.

 

[Fabio Totaro]

I have the very same problem on a KV29 100Hz (FX chassis).
The upper part of the screen is "folded" on itself.

The first symptomI got was no vertical deflection at all. I got just a very
brigth horizontal line in the middle of the screen.
I found that the resistors in series to the output transistor where "well
done!".
I replaced them with a couple of higher wattage resistors mounted on a
small headsink and the screen was back apart for that strange "fold".
I found that a capacitor was also damaged (a 3.3uF filter capacitor
on the supply line of the above PNP/NPN couple) and also a diode
in the same area was leaky. On my chassis the resistors were called
R458/R459, the capacitor is C524 and the diode is D506.
All of them are in the vertical drive stage.

I bet you have the same problem.

Good luck
Fabio



"Marco De Vitis" <starless@despammed.com> ha scritto nel messaggio
news:1bkckda6evugj$.dlg@starless.mdv...

Hi, I have a KV-X2531A Sony TV (chassis AE-1C) which is recently
showing a lighter horizontal area on the top of the screen, a line
placed more or less 1/4 of the total screen size from the top.
It appears after 10 minutes or so, when the TV gets hot.

Actually, the area seems to be slightly distorted, as if the lighter
line is indeed the result of an "accumulation" of horizontal lines.

BTW, the TV is the same where I had the disappearing color problem,
see my old thread "Intermittent color/bw on Sony TV".
Some time ago I swapped the two variable capacitors near the
oscillators to work around the color problem, and everthing went
perfect for a while. Recently, the strange line appeared.

Today I tried swapping the capacitors back to their original
positions, but the situation is exactly the same: the color is ok, but
the line is still there.

What might be causing this? I didn't touch the capacitor values... can
their swapping be related to the new problem? Or is it a new and
totally unrelated problem?

Thanks in advance.

--
Ciao,
Marco.

..."The Juliet Letters", Elvis Costello & The Brodsky Quartet 1993

 

[Jack]

*** post for FREE via your newsreader at post.newsfeed.com ***

Thanks to both for the help.

I wasn't able to get the corona dope, so I painted up the area with clear
nail polish, using many coats. That stopped the HV sparking.

The tv seemed to then work mostly okay. (The were some new anomolies:
when turning it on, a loud crack would come from the speaker. Also, after
turning it off, a warbling whistle would come from the speaker a moment
later. The tv would always come back on set to channel 2.)

BUT... now a new problem. After playing the tv for a while, then turning
it off, I can't get it on again! I hear the relay turn on, then it turns
itself right back off. If I let the tv sit for a protracted time, only
then can I get it to come on.

Is it a heat problem? Something else?



On 27 Aug 2003 13:39:53 -0400, Sam Goldwasser <sam@saul.cis.upenn.edu>
wrote:

Jack <no@nospam.com> writes:

Also, there was a small spot of some black, rubbery substance that
looked
liked it had been applied many years ago. I'm certainly going to try
to
find the corona dope that CJT recommends. Radio Shack doesn't seem to
carry it, though.

That will hopefully do the trick.

-----= Posted via Newsfeed.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =-----
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[Sam Goldwasser]

"Ctenos" <spamctenos@att.net (reply w/o spam)> writes:

I need a few 6BAx5/8" (or longer) screws, in any usual metal. Not really an
electronic item per se, but someone in another NG suggested an electronics
supplier.

By golly, Newark lists them! But as a special-order item. There supplier is
a multiplexer mfr, not a screw-cutter. I realized that I haven't found them
in Google as part numbers include a lot more digits.

I don't know what a 6BA screw is but I have been know to cheat in a situation
like this - just retap the hole and put in a standard screw.

--- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ Home Page: http://www.repairfaq.org/
Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/
+Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/lasersam.htm
| Mirror Site Info: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/F_mirror.html

Important: The email address in this message header may no longer work. To
contact me, please use the Feedback Form at repairfaq.org. Thanks.

 

[JFG]

Gerry Schneider wrote in message <3F4E4040.A35FB846@sympatico.ca>...

"Watson A.Name - 'Watt Sun'" wrote:

I forgot to xpost. Oops.

In article <MPG.19b77cfec97fd703989c63@news.inreach.net>,
alondra101@hotmail.com mentioned...

I had some 9V alkalines that were only 7 or 8V, so I opened them up to
get the snap contacts. I found that of the 6 AAAA cells inside, only
one was bad, the other 5 had some life in them. So I decided to make
up a throwaway LED light, by soldering three AAAA cells, a resistor
and white LED, with some black electrical tape to hold them together.
I tried to solder a wire onto the top of one of the AAAA cells, but it
went PFFFT! and the top popped off and spat hot juice out. At which
time I said, maybe this isn't such a good idea, and went to the bench
and rigged up a battery holder. I cut out some springy metal contacts
and drilled some holes and mounted them to a piece of blank PC board,
and now it holds the single AAAA cell, and now I can run one of my V
boost circuits from it. But I've got better things to do than make
battery holders.

I Googled for "AAAA battery holder" and checked out pages and pages of
hits, but I still haven't been able to find an AAAA cell battery
holder. I've tried different combos of the words in "AAAA cell
battery holder", with and without the quotes, but I haven't been
successful. Mostly it comes back with "Nothing found. Did you mean
AAA cell holder?" I would even be satisfied with an AAAA to AAA cell
adapter. But the "AAAA AAA cell adapter" comes back nothing found.
When I do get hits, they're only for products that use the AAAA
cells.

I've been to Keystone Elect. http://www.keyelco.com/kec/pdfs/p12.pdf
and checked these contacts, but that's not what I want. What I'm
looking for is similar to one of these, but smaller.
http://www.thomas-distributing.com/battery-holders.htm
I'm looking for a plastic holder with wire leads for 1, 2, 3 or 4 AAAA
cells. Am I asking too much?


--
@@F@r@o@m@@O@r@a@n@g@e@@C@o@u@n@t@y@,@@C@a@l@,@@w@h@e@r@e@@
###Got a Question about ELECTRONICS? Check HERE First:###
http://users.pandora.be/educypedia/electronics/databank.htm
My email address is whitelisted. *All* email sent to it
goes directly to the trash unless you add NOSPAM in the
Subject: line with other stuff. alondra101 <at> hotmail.com
Don't be ripped off by the big book dealers. Go to the URL
that will give you a choice and save you money(up to half).
http://www.everybookstore.com You'll be glad you did!
Just when you thought you had all this figured out, the gov't
changed it: http://physics.nist.gov/cuu/Units/binary.html
@@t@h@e@@a@f@f@l@u@e@n@t@@m@e@e@t@@t@h@e@@E@f@f@l@u@e@n@t@@

A standard AAA holder from Digi Key (2480K-ND for a triple) holds AAAA
cells
just fine, but obviously isn't the most compact solution. With regard to
soldering - the AAAA cells I've removed from 9V batts all have welded
solderable strips attached at both ends - careful soldering to the tab end
followed by a quick dip in an ice bath has worked well so far with no cell
venting.

Gerry



I recently opened a Mallory 9v battery to get some AAAA cells. I found that

the polarity
of the cells is opposite what you might expect and the cell is slightly
shorter than a real
AAAA.. I managed to short circuit a cell and it blew up with the end cap
going across the
room..

 

[JURB6006]

RE: KPR4110 coolant problem

I've done about 7 of those type of sets. Green and blue, as expected. These are
totally sealed with no bellows or expansion chamber, well there is but it is
within the aluminum housing. There is enough of an air pocket to keep it from
blowing apart, or blowing in the face of the CRT.

You don't need to "match" the coolant, especially in these sets, the
super-concave lens is made of plastic, so the refractive index of the coolant
is not critical. HOWEVER, if you assemble an SD174 without the inner glass you
will get an error in optical focus overall, and when you go to correct it, you
will find that you can't get it right in the center and the edges at the same
time. This might be correctable, and if that cooling system worked and kept the
phosphor from burning, I think you might be quite pleased with the picture once
you're done.

That particular piece of glass is not rquired for the optical system, it is a
cooling system component. The convection of the coolant effectively cooled the
screen, quite a bit more effectively than modern sets. If you really look at it
before you clean it you can see the patterns.

That piece of glass does change the <u>effective</u> distance from the screen
to the lens system, and glass being denser than ethylene glycol, I would assume
it lengthens it. As such, it should be correctable by shims between the CRT
assembly and the projection lens.

JURB

 

[Virgil]

You can also use "Find", up at the top, (at least you can in Windows ME), click on it and get a display where can put in a search for subject, message, etc. Two blocks there to enter for search before a certain date, or after a certain date. I'm not sure how far back you can go, but I just did one for after Jan. 1, 2001, so know can go that far back.
Virgil
"Wayne Tiffany" &lt;wayne.tiffany@asi.com&gt; wrote in message news:bilv1j$atvmt$1@ID-201804.news.uni-berlin.de...

Go here:
http://groups.google.com/groups?hl=en&amp;lr=&amp;ie=UTF-8&amp;group=sci.electronics.rep
air You can search and read to your heart's content. Enjoy the evening.

WT

"Paul Landregan" &lt;plandregan@hotmail.com&gt; wrote in message
news:bilo19$amv45$1@ID-198833.news.uni-berlin.de...
goggle.

"garfield" &lt;jenncyoung@hotmail.com&gt; wrote in message
news:Ydt3b.61477$Rz6.82097@news1.mts.net...
I am new to the group. Are there archives available for viewing? If
so,
how do I access them?

 

[Virgil]

Well, I see I was wrong on my other post. I downloaded all headers until it wouldn't get any more, and only goes back to 5/18/2003. Sorry about that.
"Virgil" &lt;oldfogie@earthlink.net&gt; wrote in message news:eSz3b.22360$8i2.11390@newsread2.news.atl.earthlink.net...
You can also use "Find", up at the top, (at least you can in Windows ME), click on it and get a display where can put in a search for subject, message, etc. Two blocks there to enter for search before a certain date, or after a certain date. I'm not sure how far back you can go, but I just did one for after Jan. 1, 2001, so know can go that far back.
Virgil
"Wayne Tiffany" &lt;wayne.tiffany@asi.com&gt; wrote in message news:bilv1j$atvmt$1@ID-201804.news.uni-berlin.de...

Go here:
http://groups.google.com/groups?hl=en&amp;lr=&amp;ie=UTF-8&amp;group=sci.electronics.rep
air You can search and read to your heart's content. Enjoy the evening.

WT

"Paul Landregan" &lt;plandregan@hotmail.com&gt; wrote in message
news:bilo19$amv45$1@ID-198833.news.uni-berlin.de...
goggle.

"garfield" &lt;jenncyoung@hotmail.com&gt; wrote in message
news:Ydt3b.61477$Rz6.82097@news1.mts.net...
I am new to the group. Are there archives available for viewing? If
so,
how do I access them?

 

[Jim Yanik]

Gene Stemple &lt;gene_s@vtc.net&gt; wrote in news:3F4E532C.45FFC4FD@vtc.net:

Help.. My trusty bench 'scope, Tektronix 485, has gone on
the fritz. The problem is in the beam intensity, or rather
the lack thereof.
** I have the Service manual/schematics. **

There IS a trace, but as the intensity control is advanced
the trace brightens a little (but not to a "normal" level)
then dims and de-focuses. For trouble-shooting I have
disabled the Auto-Focus circuitry but that does not change
the brightness action. With a 1000M HV probe the cathode
tests at -3008v; the intensity grid test point (TP1665) varies
from -3082v (control full CCW) to -3009v (control full CW);
the Z-out DC test point swings from +8 to +85; and the grid
bias pot is set to +90v. CRT anode, post acceleration,
measures +17450v and with the added probe load current trips
the beam current limits, driving Z-out down and extinguishing
the beam if it was otherwise visible. To my eye everything
"seems" to be operating within reasonable bounds, but obviously
is not. Any ideas on problem areas? What should I check next?
Failure sequence and symptoms---- Over some extended time
(several weeks) I noticed that the beam intensity was brighter
than normal, especially just after power-on, but reducing
the intensity control took care of it. This anomaly continued
to deteriorate until the intensity was bright enough to show
the re-trace sweep even with the intensity control knob all
the way off (full CCW). While pondering this situation the
power supply cycled off and on twice, presumably due to beam
current limits tripping the PS shut-down, before I could jab
the Off button. After opening the case, and preparing for
diagnostic measurements, the above described operation was
seen. I did (eventually) find a transistor with shorted B-E
junction (Q1752, pull-down drive for Z-out circuit), replaced
it with 2N3501 as per parts list description, but this had no
effect on trace appearance. Does this failure mode suggest
any particular component? I have no clue at this point.
I have not yet measured voltages directly at the CRT socket;
maybe I should do that despite the difficulty in getting
access to that part of the circuitry.
Thanks to any who offer advice or suggestions.

It sounds like your CRT could be 'double-peaking',meaning that it's getting
towards the end of it's useful life.

Problem is that the cathode coating wears out,and eventually,the cathode
emits from a larger area and focus degrades.

485s had a propensity for the Z-axis DC restorer diodes to break down under
HV.Same diodes are used in the focus DC restorer.You need a curve tracer to
check them,or just replace them.If that does not solve the problem,then
your CRT is going.




--
Jim Yanik,NRA member
jyanik@kua.net

 

[Watson A.Name - 'Watt Sun]

In article &lt;3F4E4040.A35FB846@sympatico.ca&gt;, gerry.s@sympatico.ca
mentioned...

"Watson A.Name - 'Watt Sun'" wrote:

I forgot to xpost. Oops.

In article &lt;MPG.19b77cfec97fd703989c63@news.inreach.net&gt;,
alondra101@hotmail.com mentioned...

I had some 9V alkalines that were only 7 or 8V, so I opened them up to
get the snap contacts. I found that of the 6 AAAA cells inside, only
one was bad, the other 5 had some life in them. So I decided to make
up a throwaway LED light, by soldering three AAAA cells, a resistor
and white LED, with some black electrical tape to hold them together.
I tried to solder a wire onto the top of one of the AAAA cells, but it
went PFFFT! and the top popped off and spat hot juice out. At which
time I said, maybe this isn't such a good idea, and went to the bench
and rigged up a battery holder. I cut out some springy metal contacts
and drilled some holes and mounted them to a piece of blank PC board,
and now it holds the single AAAA cell, and now I can run one of my V
boost circuits from it. But I've got better things to do than make
battery holders.

I Googled for "AAAA battery holder" and checked out pages and pages of
hits, but I still haven't been able to find an AAAA cell battery
holder. I've tried different combos of the words in "AAAA cell
battery holder", with and without the quotes, but I haven't been
successful. Mostly it comes back with "Nothing found. Did you mean
AAA cell holder?" I would even be satisfied with an AAAA to AAA cell
adapter. But the "AAAA AAA cell adapter" comes back nothing found.
When I do get hits, they're only for products that use the AAAA
cells.

I've been to Keystone Elect. http://www.keyelco.com/kec/pdfs/p12.pdf
and checked these contacts, but that's not what I want. What I'm
looking for is similar to one of these, but smaller.
http://www.thomas-distributing.com/battery-holders.htm
I'm looking for a plastic holder with wire leads for 1, 2, 3 or 4 AAAA
cells. Am I asking too much?

A standard AAA holder from Digi Key (2480K-ND for a triple) holds AAAA cells
just fine, but obviously isn't the most compact solution. With regard to
soldering - the AAAA cells I've removed from 9V batts all have welded
solderable strips attached at both ends - careful soldering to the tab end
followed by a quick dip in an ice bath has worked well so far with no cell
venting.

I bought a two AAA cell holder from 'We've got questions' (sic), and
put a dummy battery in one side. I put a AAAA cell from a 9V batery
in the other side and the spring didn't hold it in tight enough, so I
added a 6-32 nut as a spacer between the spring and battery. It's
tighter, but it still needs a thicker nut. I don't think a second nut
would fit, but I might try it for the halibut (I went to a Japanese
restaurant for lunch and had sushi, so I feel like a fish today).

Last nite, I put another AAAA cell from that 9V batt into my spring
clips, and connected it to one of my LED V boost circuits and let it
run. I got up and it was still going but noticeably weaker so I took
it to work and put it on my desk. Later this morning I noticed it was
prety dim, so I measured the violtage and it was .71VDC. It still ran
for another hour or so before it dimmed to the point where it was
obviously dead. But then the end of the batt started leaking juice,
so I took it out and the spring terminal was already starting to
corrode.

Well, has anyone found a true AAAA cell holder?? Still looking..

Gerry

--
@@F@r@o@m@@O@r@a@n@g@e@@C@o@u@n@t@y@,@@C@a@l@,@@w@h@e@r@e@@
###Got a Question about ELECTRONICS? Check HERE First:###
http://users.pandora.be/educypedia/electronics/databank.htm
My email address is whitelisted. *All* email sent to it
goes directly to the trash unless you add NOSPAM in the
Subject: line with other stuff. alondra101 &lt;at&gt; hotmail.com
Don't be ripped off by the big book dealers. Go to the URL
that will give you a choice and save you money(up to half).
http://www.everybookstore.com You'll be glad you did!
Just when you thought you had all this figured out, the gov't
changed it: http://physics.nist.gov/cuu/Units/binary.html
@@t@h@e@@a@f@f@l@u@e@n@t@@m@e@e@t@@t@h@e@@E@f@f@l@u@e@n@t@@

 

[Michael A. Terrell]

"Watson A.Name - 'Watt Sun'" wrote:

I bought a two AAA cell holder from 'We've got questions' (sic), and
put a dummy battery in one side. I put a AAAA cell from a 9V batery
in the other side and the spring didn't hold it in tight enough, so I
added a 6-32 nut as a spacer between the spring and battery. It's
tighter, but it still needs a thicker nut. I don't think a second nut
would fit, but I might try it for the halibut (I went to a Japanese
restaurant for lunch and had sushi, so I feel like a fish today).

Last nite, I put another AAAA cell from that 9V batt into my spring
clips, and connected it to one of my LED V boost circuits and let it
run. I got up and it was still going but noticeably weaker so I took
it to work and put it on my desk. Later this morning I noticed it was
prety dim, so I measured the violtage and it was .71VDC. It still ran
for another hour or so before it dimmed to the point where it was
obviously dead. But then the end of the batt started leaking juice,
so I took it out and the spring terminal was already starting to
corrode.

Well, has anyone found a true AAAA cell holder?? Still looking..

Have you looked at Keystone? They always had the best assortment of
battery holders when I needed an oddball. http://www.keyelco.com/


--


Michael A. Terrell
Central Florida

 

[Lord Garth]

"Michael A. Terrell" &lt;mike.terrell@earthlink.net&gt; wrote in message
news:3F4ECF06.CFB28ED1@earthlink.net...

"Watson A.Name - 'Watt Sun'" wrote:

I bought a two AAA cell holder from 'We've got questions' (sic), and
put a dummy battery in one side. I put a AAAA cell from a 9V batery
in the other side and the spring didn't hold it in tight enough, so I
added a 6-32 nut as a spacer between the spring and battery. It's
tighter, but it still needs a thicker nut. I don't think a second nut
would fit, but I might try it for the halibut (I went to a Japanese
restaurant for lunch and had sushi, so I feel like a fish today).

Last nite, I put another AAAA cell from that 9V batt into my spring
clips, and connected it to one of my LED V boost circuits and let it
run. I got up and it was still going but noticeably weaker so I took
it to work and put it on my desk. Later this morning I noticed it was
prety dim, so I measured the violtage and it was .71VDC. It still ran
for another hour or so before it dimmed to the point where it was
obviously dead. But then the end of the batt started leaking juice,
so I took it out and the spring terminal was already starting to
corrode.

Well, has anyone found a true AAAA cell holder?? Still looking..

Have you looked at Keystone? They always had the best assortment of
battery holders when I needed an oddball. http://www.keyelco.com/


--


Michael A. Terrell
Central Florida

I didn't see any with 'battery holder' as a search term however, using
'AAAA' returned these pdfs:

http://www.keyelco.com/kec/pdfs/p12.pdf

http://www.keyelco.com/kec/standpro/specpage/spec48.htm

http://www.keyelco.com/kec/pdfs/p10.pdf

There are many more....

 

[Watson A.Name - 'Watt Sun]

In article &lt;3F4ECF06.CFB28ED1@earthlink.net&gt;,
mike.terrell@earthlink.net mentioned...

"Watson A.Name - 'Watt Sun'" wrote:
[snip]

Well, has anyone found a true AAAA cell holder?? Still looking..

Have you looked at Keystone? They always had the best assortment of
battery holders when I needed an oddball. http://www.keyelco.com/

Ssomebody chopped the part of my post that had the keystone URl on it.
So, yes, I tried that.

Well, Mike, you've mentioned the lightning storms in central Florida,
which is the worst place for lightning in the U.S. Can you top this
one? The son of the lady at work lives on Glenwood Springs, Colo,
which is close to Eagle, CO, where all this Kobe Bryant stuff is going
on. She talked to him the other day, and he said that they had really
bad lightning storms, so bad that at night the sky was nearly like
daytime, there were so many lightning strikes. Because of the forests
they have to keep track of the number of lightning strikes, and
between Glenwood Spgs and Vail, they had 5100 lightning strikes in 7
days, that's 728 per day avg!

Must've been an awesome light show!

--
@@F@r@o@m@@O@r@a@n@g@e@@C@o@u@n@t@y@,@@C@a@l@,@@w@h@e@r@e@@
###Got a Question about ELECTRONICS? Check HERE First:###
http://users.pandora.be/educypedia/electronics/databank.htm
My email address is whitelisted. *All* email sent to it
goes directly to the trash unless you add NOSPAM in the
Subject: line with other stuff. alondra101 &lt;at&gt; hotmail.com
Don't be ripped off by the big book dealers. Go to the URL
that will give you a choice and save you money(up to half).
http://www.everybookstore.com You'll be glad you did!
Just when you thought you had all this figured out, the gov't
changed it: http://physics.nist.gov/cuu/Units/binary.html
@@t@h@e@@a@f@f@l@u@e@n@t@@m@e@e@t@@t@h@e@@E@f@f@l@u@e@n@t@@

 

[Watson A.Name - 'Watt Sun]

In article &lt;zHA3b.640$bi2.370@newssvr22.news.prodigy.com&gt;,
LGarth@tantalus.com mentioned...

"Michael A. Terrell" &lt;mike.terrell@earthlink.net&gt; wrote in message
news:3F4ECF06.CFB28ED1@earthlink.net...
"Watson A.Name - 'Watt Sun'" wrote:

[snip]
Well, has anyone found a true AAAA cell holder?? Still looking..

Have you looked at Keystone? They always had the best assortment of
battery holders when I needed an oddball. http://www.keyelco.com/


Michael A. Terrell
Central Florida

I didn't see any with 'battery holder' as a search term however, using
'AAAA' returned these pdfs:

http://www.keyelco.com/kec/pdfs/p12.pdf

http://www.keyelco.com/kec/standpro/specpage/spec48.htm

http://www.keyelco.com/kec/pdfs/p10.pdf

There are many more....

The URL I gave for Keystone in the original post got snipped. Here's
the URL for an AAA cell holder, I want an AAAA cell holder similar to
this but in 1, 2, 3, and 4 cell versions.

http://www.radioshack.com/product.asp?catalog%5Fname=CTLG&amp;category%5Fn
ame=CTLG%5F011%5F002%5F001%5F000&amp;product%5Fid=270%2D398&amp;MSCSProfile=74
5D84CBF04D14A48AA6FF9C89D722C0BA68C1B04FE384678A5285FCD6E056B17AF21627
FDABE316B90B3C038D68EBD6B7F9F3BD1712EAA9951ACB2590A05C6517EFE46941FEFD
D1985D4EFD6321F5E70B4DE9B6C1D45512A2E2690A6961FCE4C58519AA831000F0204A
BA134C00ED5CE23FC74BB12BA6A79DEE6AA48ACC22BCC404EFBDFF1522C6

Holy spit! I can't believe that they made the URL that long! Anyway,
I haven't seen anything like this in AAAA cell size in any of the
numerous Google searches that I've done, including Keystone.

HELP!

--
@@F@r@o@m@@O@r@a@n@g@e@@C@o@u@n@t@y@,@@C@a@l@,@@w@h@e@r@e@@
###Got a Question about ELECTRONICS? Check HERE First:###
http://users.pandora.be/educypedia/electronics/databank.htm
My email address is whitelisted. *All* email sent to it
goes directly to the trash unless you add NOSPAM in the
Subject: line with other stuff. alondra101 &lt;at&gt; hotmail.com
Don't be ripped off by the big book dealers. Go to the URL
that will give you a choice and save you money(up to half).
http://www.everybookstore.com You'll be glad you did!
Just when you thought you had all this figured out, the gov't
changed it: http://physics.nist.gov/cuu/Units/binary.html
@@t@h@e@@a@f@f@l@u@e@n@t@@m@e@e@t@@t@h@e@@E@f@f@l@u@e@n@t@@