Toshiba TV29C90 problem; Image fades to black...

[Wdyorchid]

Your help sound exciting. I've been searching for a scope the past few weeks.
When I get one I will try it.
Today I'd pulled out the last transistor (Q105) and tested it and it's
fine. I'd used a light bulb connected in series with collector (C) and emitter
(E) ground and inject currant into B with a logic pulser. It works okay. But
reversing (C ) and (E) makes the bulb glow dimly, this is normal I believe.
This transistor I cannot find an exact replacement part.
C113 sounds like an exciting task to replace and find. I will get on it
right away.
Thanks for the great quality help.
-w orchid

The best ( cheap ) way to check junction transistors for shorts and/or
excessive leakage is to make a curve tracer using an old " lab " scope
, and about a 3-6 volt transformer , email me , and I will try to
hunt-up or simulate details ( scope must have a horizontal-drive input
)

total cost , besides scope , the price of salvage transformer and
switch and resistor ( s ) 3 if you want a good one , but 1 resistor
will do .

tim

wdyorchid@aol.com (Wdyorchid) wrote in message
news:<20030822041804.10910.00000511@mb-m14.aol.com>...
Take a look at this schematic. The green line is faulty line measuring 28V
which should be 1V. Assuming that replacing four transistors in these
general
areas would solve it, but it didn't. What can I be missing?

Details: Q111, Q109, Q129C, and Q129A replace same time. Measurements were
taken and still the same as before. (Thinking Q111, Q109 drives the output
transistors (Q129A, Q129C, replacing them would solve something) All the
transistors were checked with a diode tester but didn't paid attention to
comparing them before installing them. What is the correct way to test them
with a diode checker? (I'd been using a logic pulser before but lost it.)
Receiver is a Dolby pro logic RX-V480.

http://autotails.tripod.com/zoom.htm

 

[Hotspur]

On Mon, 25 Aug 2003 16:50:20 +0000 (UTC), "Dave D"
<someone@somewhere.com> wrote:

I'm trying to find a source in the UK for a lower drum assy. for a JVC
HR-S7600 SVHS VCR. I am not trade so it needs to be a company who will sell
to the public. I am also willing to buy a used part if anyone has one. I
have Googled but finding a UK supplier for this part has proved fruitless.
The fault is physical damage to the ribbon cable which connects the ferrite
head transformer to the main board. Against the odds, I managed to patch the
4 broken traces with fine wire, but I don't expect it to last. I would also
be interested if anyone can give me a ballpark price for the item. The drum
assy is the inverted type and contains only the shaft and ferrite coupling
coils, not the motor which is on the top, so I'm hoping it'll be a little
cheaper than conventional ones

If anyone can help out I'd be most grateful.

Dave


CPC at Preston,Faraday drive I believe.I have an account there but

they will sell to the public. 01772-654455.If no luck cheaper firms
are listed in our trade mag"Television" sold to the public with lots
of suppliers in it some a lot cheaper than CPC.Buy the mag,any problem
get back .

 

[Arthur Jernberg]

Best Advice is to have a service tech have a go at it, preferbably a tech
with Thompson experience. Could be a glitch in the eprom or power supply
problem.
"shane" <sachinandsony@shaw.ca> wrote in message
news:9ac36e87.0308251417.73ce961b@posting.google.com...

I have a 36inch Rca tv, model F36676ET, and chassis number CTC 197CD
that now clicks a few times when power is hit, but does not turn on.
Is this an easy fix and what could it be? Thanks kindly.

 

[SINDROBERT]

I think you should try a different tactic in repairing this amplifier.

First do not use replacement parts for the transistors. (Too late I know) USE
original japanese transistors. These can be bought from MCM electronics or even
yammaha.
Second if u did not get a schemetic order it directly from yammaha. It is worth
it.


You said you replaced parts with replacements types. ECG I am assuming. These
are not always the correct match. Since this amplifier uses directly coupled
stages, i would not trust the the bias-spec of the replacements.

After u replace every transistor with the original japanese part and check all
fuseable resistors for opens.

Geting the amp to power up. Bypassing the protection circuits.

If your serious about repairing this amp yourself. You should have acess to a
variac. (DONT USE LAMPS) With a current meter.

Disconnect the ac cord from the relay board via the white quick connect plug.


Feed ac power to the main
transformer.(The big one.)



look at schemtic to be shure where to connect. I dont have one.


DO NOT CONNECT SPEAKERS.

While watching for curent draw of no more than 2amps.
If Drawing to much current you still have
a shorted transistor or a open resistor
that ballances the bias current.

Now you can check voltages with power to the amp.

This is the same as bypassing the relay
Dont take it apart and force it closed.
You will have to replace it latter if you do.

There is an additional pre-amp board in the front of the amp , with several
transistors on it. I remember that i have had to always change several
mutting transistors. even if it had nothing to do with the blown channel.
These would be leaky.
And would always cause an offset problem.and/or cause a pop sound when
the unit is powered up or when they where
activated. then unit would power down.

They should read a high resistance when checked with a good quality meter or
using diode tester, Infinite one dirrection or the actual junction voltage in
the other.

As far a checking a transistor for this kind of work a good meter like a fluke
73 or better would be good enough to check a transistor. just think it as two
diodes connected togther. NPPN OR PNNP.
Jappenese transistors are easy to ID the pinout. The collector is always in the
middle while base and emmiter was on either side. A curve tracer is nice
but to expensisve. invest in a good meter and scope first.

I make no claims, i am not responsible if you burn up your amp or yourself or
others. and not affliated with any of the above metioned places.

I am just a tech.

any questions or if you need more help or more explanations feel free to email.
Robert.

 

[Laurence Payne]

I have has it with these VCR's that turn the screen blue when the
signal gets weak. I live in a rural area and am used to weak
reception, since the nearest station is 60 miles away. Having a signal
get fuzzy and losing a few words of the sound is not that big of a
deal, but when I am watching something, or worse yet, taped something
and that god damn blue screen keeps popping on and off is more than I
can take. The first VCR that did that I threw in the trash. I
thought it was just a bad VCR. So I buy another one and it did the
same god damn thing. That one got me so angry I threw the fucking
thing thru the livingroom window, which cost me almost $100 to repair
the window. I just bought an old one at an rummage sale, hoping it
would not have that fucking blue screen. Wrong, I just tossed that
one out the door, only 5 minutes after hooking it up for the first
time and it's in 10 or more pieces on the lawn. The asshole that put
that into the VCRs should be hung in times square by his fucking cock.
At least they could have put a disable switch somewhere on the thing.

Is there a way to disable it?

I've never worked with a vcr which didn't have this as an option in
setup menu.

If you really allow a machine to get to you this much, are you sure
you should be allowed near mains electricity? And other people?

 

[David]

No where near enough information to even hazard a guess.
It could be an easy fix or a very difficult fix for a Thomson experienced
technician.

You are better off finding a servicer with lots of experience on this
chassis line and has the Chipper Check interface in order to properly
diagnose and repair the tv set.

You will save considerable money on the repair if you can take the set into
the servicer rather than having them come out and do the repair in home.

David

shane <sachinandsony@shaw.ca> wrote in message
news:9ac36e87.0308251417.73ce961b@posting.google.com...

I have a 36inch Rca tv, model F36676ET, and chassis number CTC 197CD
that now clicks a few times when power is hit, but does not turn on.
Is this an easy fix and what could it be? Thanks kindly.

 

[CJT]

Jack wrote:

*** post for FREE via your newsreader at post.newsfeed.com ***

I've got an old 19" Paxonic tv, bought used 23 years ago. It still works
great and I'd like to repair it if I could - just for the heck of it.

The one problem is this: I heard snapping, like a high voltage spark,
about once per second. Opening it up, I saw that electricity seemed to
have created a pinhole in the insulation around the high-voltage
transformer. (It's near the area where the heavy wire leaves to go to the
tube.) Sparks come out the hole and then go to the metal core of the
transformer. So I covered the area with hot-melt glue, to insulate it.

I also noticed a nearby resistor that had burned out at one end, with
tiny sparks leaving the open end of the resistor. I covered that with
electrical tape.

I rep[lugged it and turned it on. The experiment worked for about 30
minutes, until super-rapid sparking suddenly began. I discovered that the
electricity had found a new path underneath the hot-melt glue.

As I say, I'd like to repair this tv, proceeding carefully. Is there any
way to insulate the transformer? Is there any chance of finding a new
transformer for such an old tv? The name "Samsung" does appear on some
places inside.

Thanks.


-----= Posted via Newsfeed.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =-----
http://www.newsfeed.com - The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World!
-----== 100,000 Groups! - 19 Servers! - Unlimited Download! =-----

Visit an electronics store and ask for "corona dope."

 

[Rick]

<not@not.not> wrote in message news:ge2mkvoqsp1d90trmmpe3ka1rpt5voulo7@4ax.com...

On 26 Aug 2003 03:12:19 GMT, laseranddvdfan@aol.com (LASERandDVDfan)
wrote:

Some VCRs have a blue-screen defeat, like some older Sharp VCRs, while others
don't, like some Panasonic VCRs. If you want a VCR that doesn't have the
blue-screen, then look for a machine that was made before 1990. Avoid
Mitsubishi, Panasonic, Magnavox, Sylvania, Quasar, JCPenney, and Teknika decks
made after 1987.

I actually feel sorry for those VCRs you needlessly destroyed. A very violent
and wasteful attitude, that it is.

At the very least, you could have sold them in a garage sale and made some
money off of them. - Reinhart

Now that I have cooled down.......

Thanks for the advice from everyone. All the brands you mentioned are
the ones I have had. 2 Panasonics and 1 Magnavox.
I will look for an older one, or another model mentioned that has a
disable switch or programming.

As far as why these vcr's get to me.
I work 12 or more hours a day farming, and get little to show for it.
Then I come in the house and got to listen to the lard queen bitching
about the frikkin blue screen on the tv and everything else she can
find to complain about. All she does all day is sit on her fat ass
and eat and get fatter. The tv tuner does not work, so the vcr is the
tuner. So, I get home totally exhausted, then listen to her bitching
for several hours, and finally have a few minutes to myself. I sit
down to relax and watch the news, and that damn screen keeps flipping
from the program to blue every few seconds. There goes my relaxing,
and my temper. Especially lately since the temperature has been near
100 every day.

Yes, I could buy a new tv, and even get a satelite dish, but I watch
tv maybe 3 hours a week, tops.... The lard queen has it on from the
time she gets up till I get rid of her at night. I already told her
to get off her lazy ass and get a job, and buy a frikkin tv, but all
she does is sit and eat and eat and eat, while I watch my money turn
into lard.

I figure there are two things I need most in life. A vcr that dont
turn the screen blue and a divorce. I don't ask for much from life, I
just want to watch the news after a hard days work without the screen
turning blue and without the background bitching.

Thanks again

Gordy

Not to bask in another man's pain, but that's downright hysterical.
The poor vcrs didn't stand a chance.

Rick

 

[Mark D. Zacharias]

Excellent advice, and usable on most brands of receivers.

There is a "trick" on the Yamaha. Use a double-ended AC cord plugged into
one "switched" outlet, plug it's own AC cord into the other switched outlet.
Plug your double-ended cord into the variac. This will bypass the main power
as mentioned, but will also power up all the other regulators, etc.

This comes from Yamaha, as I'm an authorized Yamaha servicer.

Mark Z.



"SINDROBERT" <sindrobert@aol.com> wrote in message
news:20030825191449.10744.00000484@mb-m14.aol.com...

I think you should try a different tactic in repairing this amplifier.

First do not use replacement parts for the transistors. (Too late I know)
USE
original japanese transistors. These can be bought from MCM electronics or
even
yammaha.
Second if u did not get a schemetic order it directly from yammaha. It is
worth
it.


You said you replaced parts with replacements types. ECG I am assuming.
These
are not always the correct match. Since this amplifier uses directly
coupled
stages, i would not trust the the bias-spec of the replacements.

After u replace every transistor with the original japanese part and check
all
fuseable resistors for opens.

Geting the amp to power up. Bypassing the protection circuits.

If your serious about repairing this amp yourself. You should have acess
to a
variac. (DONT USE LAMPS) With a current meter.

Disconnect the ac cord from the relay board via the white quick connect
plug.


Feed ac power to the main
transformer.(The big one.)



look at schemtic to be shure where to connect. I dont have one.


DO NOT CONNECT SPEAKERS.

While watching for curent draw of no more than 2amps.
If Drawing to much current you still have
a shorted transistor or a open resistor
that ballances the bias current.

Now you can check voltages with power to the amp.

This is the same as bypassing the relay
Dont take it apart and force it closed.
You will have to replace it latter if you do.

There is an additional pre-amp board in the front of the amp , with
several
transistors on it. I remember that i have had to always change several
mutting transistors. even if it had nothing to do with the blown channel.
These would be leaky.
And would always cause an offset problem.and/or cause a pop sound when
the unit is powered up or when they where
activated. then unit would power down.

They should read a high resistance when checked with a good quality meter
or
using diode tester, Infinite one dirrection or the actual junction
voltage in
the other.

As far a checking a transistor for this kind of work a good meter like a
fluke
73 or better would be good enough to check a transistor. just think it
as two
diodes connected togther. NPPN OR PNNP.
Jappenese transistors are easy to ID the pinout. The collector is always
in the
middle while base and emmiter was on either side. A curve tracer is
nice
but to expensisve. invest in a good meter and scope first.

I make no claims, i am not responsible if you burn up your amp or yourself
or
others. and not affliated with any of the above metioned places.

I am just a tech.

any questions or if you need more help or more explanations feel free to
email.
Robert.

 

[Mr. Lee]

Module exchange will repair the main board! Call north texas dist at
1-800-553-6168 for price!


"JohnAce" <johnace@aol.com> wrote in message
news:20030825211803.07163.00000579@mb-m26.aol.com...

I have a Zenithin for repair.. No video, I have HV and sound and if I turn
up
tyhe G2 the tube is lit with slight retrace. It has a 9-1643 video board
but I
can't seem to get anywhere even through PTS. I have no schematic on this
and
would like to fix it. The drivers on the CRT board are cold and I get
about 212
volts on the collector If that is any help.. Thanks

 

[Sam Goldwasser]

Jack <no@nospam.com> writes:

*** post for FREE via your newsreader at post.newsfeed.com ***

I've got an old 19" Paxonic tv, bought used 23 years ago. It still works
great and I'd like to repair it if I could - just for the heck of it.

The one problem is this: I heard snapping, like a high voltage spark,
about once per second. Opening it up, I saw that electricity seemed to
have created a pinhole in the insulation around the high-voltage
transformer. (It's near the area where the heavy wire leaves to go to the
tube.) Sparks come out the hole and then go to the metal core of the
transformer. So I covered the area with hot-melt glue, to insulate it.

I also noticed a nearby resistor that had burned out at one end, with
tiny sparks leaving the open end of the resistor. I covered that with
electrical tape.

I rep[lugged it and turned it on. The experiment worked for about 30
minutes, until super-rapid sparking suddenly began. I discovered that the
electricity had found a new path underneath the hot-melt glue.

As I say, I'd like to repair this tv, proceeding carefully. Is there any
way to insulate the transformer? Is there any chance of finding a new
transformer for such an old tv? The name "Samsung" does appear on some
places inside.

Unlikely unless you luck into someone's old stock. It's also possible that
the transformer isn't the cause. Rather, that your high voltage is too high
and it would arc through even a new transformer.

Are there any other symptoms? Any change in picture size or brightness
that might indicate a HV problem?

--- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ Home Page: http://www.repairfaq.org/
Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/
+Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/lasersam.htm
| Mirror Site Info: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/F_mirror.html

Important: The email address in this message header may no longer work. To
contact me, please use the Feedback Form at repairfaq.org. Thanks.

 

[Mark D. Zacharias]

Or, you could look for a bad resistor, and possibly a bad diode, for the 200
volt line.

Mark Z.


"Mr. Lee" <bubba@biff.com> wrote in message
newsIH2b.41814$0u4.29157@news1.central.cox.net...

Module exchange will repair the main board! Call north texas dist at
1-800-553-6168 for price!


"JohnAce" <johnace@aol.com> wrote in message
news:20030825211803.07163.00000579@mb-m26.aol.com...
I have a Zenithin for repair.. No video, I have HV and sound and if I
turn
up
tyhe G2 the tube is lit with slight retrace. It has a 9-1643 video board
but I
can't seem to get anywhere even through PTS. I have no schematic on this
and
would like to fix it. The drivers on the CRT board are cold and I get
about 212
volts on the collector If that is any help.. Thanks

 

[Dave D]

"Hotspur" <Hotspur@freeserve.co.uk> wrote in message
news:3f4a53d7.6209563@news.freeserve.net...

On Mon, 25 Aug 2003 16:50:20 +0000 (UTC), "Dave D"
someone@somewhere.com> wrote:

I'm trying to find a source in the UK for a lower drum assy. for a JVC
HR-S7600 SVHS VCR. I am not trade so it needs to be a company who will
sell
to the public. I am also willing to buy a used part if anyone has one. I
have Googled but finding a UK supplier for this part has proved
fruitless.
The fault is physical damage to the ribbon cable which connects the
ferrite
head transformer to the main board. Against the odds, I managed to patch
the
4 broken traces with fine wire, but I don't expect it to last. I would
also
be interested if anyone can give me a ballpark price for the item. The
drum
assy is the inverted type and contains only the shaft and ferrite
coupling
coils, not the motor which is on the top, so I'm hoping it'll be a little
cheaper than conventional ones

If anyone can help out I'd be most grateful.

Dave


CPC at Preston,Faraday drive I believe.I have an account there but
they will sell to the public. 01772-654455.If no luck cheaper firms
are listed in our trade mag"Television" sold to the public with lots
of suppliers in it some a lot cheaper than CPC.Buy the mag,any problem
get back .

Thanks for that, I'll check them out.

Dave

 

[Jerry G.]

Check that the amplitude of the video signals going to the CRT
electron-guns are correct. Also check that the DC biases are also
correct to the tube. If so, the tube is more than likely defective.

--

Greetings,

Jerry Greenberg GLG Technologies GLG
==============================================
WebPage http://www.zoom-one.com
Electronics http://www.zoom-one.com/electron.htm
Instruments http://www.zoom-one.com/glgtech.htm
==============================================
"Mark G" <naturlbornloser@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:dNN2b.857$xD2.738@fe01.atl2.webusenet.com...
Have a this goldstar that was working fine till a lightning storm the
other
night, Now normally the P-supply woulda took a dump right???, well its
the
color guns in it, Picture/Raster is still fine except its all green now,
looks like I lost the red and blue guns, all 3 color driver tranny's are
fine (they all measure the same anyways), I can bring up the blue and
red
drives to the max and its trying to compensate(there are blues and reds
showing),but still primaraly green.There are only 2 bias adjustments
(Red
and Blue),no green one??? so now I'm lost for thats about the extent of
my
television knowledge. Anyone that knows what the trouble may be, I sure
would appreciate an assist here, I'm basically an audio tech but dabble
in
the TV repairs....Thank You

--
Mark Glass
Technician
Village Music
888-865-6505
434-392-8943

 

[Mark G]

Thanks Jerry, The DC bias' are ok, but not sure how to check the amplitude
of the vid sig to the CRT, guess a schematic would help eh???....Once again
thank you for the suggestions bud...
Mark G

 

[Lew]

Most recent Goldstars use Zenith CRTs.
Try gently tapping the CRT neck with a plastic screwdriver handle. I repeat
GENTLY! You may be able to correct this fault by floating the heater.
Lew

 

[Ray]

I am unable to get the deck to record from the VHF input; is this normal?

Adam,
Yep. That industrial deck has no tuner but it does have a built in
RF modulator so it can be used with a TV set. If you connect an antenna
or cable to the RF input jack on the VCR, it can switch the signal
between VCR playback and TV (bypass mode) so you don't have to switch
cables by hand.

Ray

My return addy is obviously fake. To reply to this email, use
rrcc at myuw dot net

 

[Mark G]

shit lew, I'll give that a shot too, but not right now, its 12 midnite and
I'm drunk as a 2 dollar toaster (wanna preserve the CRT neck....lol), just
got home and caught this reply....thanx 2 u 2 bud!!! I'll let ya know
tomorrow if thats good....

 

[Alan]

It is quite possible that either the Eeprom was replaced during this
repair and not set up correctly or the Eeprom was corrupted due to a
spike or surge at the time of powersupply failure.This component
contains settings for color,geometry,audio and various other
stuff.There are some settings that tell the set what model it is.If
these settings are wrong for the specific model,you bcan end up with
missing features,features that work different or menu options for
features that your set doesn't have.All this is setup with a hidden
service menu wich requires the factory service manual to obtain the
correct settings.You may need to have it set up correctly,or the
Eeprom will need to be replaced and then setup afterwards.
This is not normally a job for the do it yourself type because you can
create other problems and or cause damage.The info that appears on the
screen is not self explanatory either.
On Thu, 21 Aug 2003 21:19:43 +0000 (UTC), Vince <guarna@enteract.com>
wrote:

I had a Sony KV-32XBR45 (32" XBR) television that developed video problems
(it was jittering and pulsating between hourglass and pincushion) and I
recently had it fixed. Now that I have it back, I noticed that several
features are missing such as (1) side-by-side picture (alternative to
PIP...PIP still works tho), (2) Freeze picture doesn't function, (3) PIP
has 2 size settings instead of 3, (4) The "Display" button on the remote
just cycles between showing time/station and not showing time/station. It
used to also cycle through showing closed caption and turning External Data
Service on.(5)...lots of other little things.

The repair shop indicated power supply problem and also damaged video
drivers. Seemed reasonable. But, given the missing features, it sure seems
to me there's in new logic board in the TV. So, my first question, is there
video circuitry along with logic circuitry on one board in this TV? (In
other words, is it reasonable that the logic board would have to be swapped
to fix a video problem?)

My second question is, does anyone recognize the feature differences? My
repair shops appears to just have ordered a replacement board from some
non-Sony source (who claims they shipped him the right parts). I'm trying
to help the repair shop identify exactly which board they did get instead
of what they should have gotten.

Or....is this really the right board and somehow has old software flashed
into it (or maybe even has a configuration setting set wrong that can be
easily corrected)?

Would appreciate any help anyone could offer.

Regards.

Vince
guarna@enteract.com

 

[Kevin Carney]

Yes it is a funny rant. If I am in a bad mood, the worst thing for my
attitude is to watch the news !!!!

--
change .combo to .com for correct email

***************************************************
"We ought always to know precisely why a given job
is done in a particular way, and why it is done at
all, and why it can't be done more efficiently,
if it must be done at all."-- T.J.Watson

***************************************************

"Dave D" <someone@somewhere.com> wrote in message
news:big342$aji$1@hercules.btinternet.com...

not@not.not> wrote in message
news:ge2mkvoqsp1d90trmmpe3ka1rpt5voulo7@4ax.com...
On 26 Aug 2003 03:12:19 GMT, laseranddvdfan@aol.com (LASERandDVDfan)
wrote:

Some VCRs have a blue-screen defeat, like some older Sharp VCRs, while
others
don't, like some Panasonic VCRs. If you want a VCR that doesn't have
the
blue-screen, then look for a machine that was made before 1990. Avoid
Mitsubishi, Panasonic, Magnavox, Sylvania, Quasar, JCPenney, and
Teknika
decks
made after 1987.

I actually feel sorry for those VCRs you needlessly destroyed. A very
violent
and wasteful attitude, that it is.

At the very least, you could have sold them in a garage sale and made
some
money off of them. - Reinhart

Now that I have cooled down.......

Thanks for the advice from everyone. All the brands you mentioned are
the ones I have had. 2 Panasonics and 1 Magnavox.
I will look for an older one, or another model mentioned that has a
disable switch or programming.

As far as why these vcr's get to me.
I work 12 or more hours a day farming, and get little to show for it.
Then I come in the house and got to listen to the lard queen bitching
about the frikkin blue screen on the tv and everything else she can
find to complain about. All she does all day is sit on her fat ass
and eat and get fatter. The tv tuner does not work, so the vcr is the
tuner. So, I get home totally exhausted, then listen to her bitching
for several hours, and finally have a few minutes to myself. I sit
down to relax and watch the news, and that damn screen keeps flipping
from the program to blue every few seconds. There goes my relaxing,
and my temper. Especially lately since the temperature has been near
100 every day.

Yes, I could buy a new tv, and even get a satelite dish, but I watch
tv maybe 3 hours a week, tops.... The lard queen has it on from the
time she gets up till I get rid of her at night. I already told her
to get off her lazy ass and get a job, and buy a frikkin tv, but all
she does is sit and eat and eat and eat, while I watch my money turn
into lard.

I figure there are two things I need most in life. A vcr that dont
turn the screen blue and a divorce. I don't ask for much from life, I
just want to watch the news after a hard days work without the screen
turning blue and without the background bitching.

Thanks again

Gordy




That is one of the most amusing rants I've had the pleasure to read. I
hope
you don't mind but I just had to forward it to my friends

Dave