Toshiba TV29C90 problem; Image fades to black...

Probable a combination of the tube going bad and problems in the main circuit board, maybe the degauss circuits. Flare and smear are highly probable poor emission in the crt itself, a very common problem with zenith.
"Just Me" <rich.booth@provwash.ccoomm> wrote in message news:cWz3b.11678$j26.10607@lakeread02...
My Zenith SR3587DT was going blue/red (Red Flared a bit) for a few minutes at turn on. OK after a while. The screen would go all green then back to normal color. I was going to look for a bad connection at the Gun connector. However, tonight, I turn on and am greeted to a "Bullseye" ring of color. Green in the center, surrounded by blue/purple rings. Time on has no apparent impact. Anyone any ideas?
 
Esr the caps in the power supplies and deflection related circuits.
"Fabio Totaro" <totarofabio@tiscali.it> wrote in message
news:bim472$2ld$1@lacerta.tiscalinet.it...
Hi,
I have the trinitron kv29fx TV set that after several years is still very
good.
I started to notice that when the image is dark or with low contrast a
large
vertical darker line (3 or 4 inches) became
very noticeable in the center of the screen. It is not something very
obvious to fix, so anyone has any idea of
what could be the resposible for that and how to fix it ?
Many thanks !
 
I cant believe the technology is based on dye and not something
physical...and how come it doesnt have the cartridge to protect the disc
like floppy.

In the early days of CD-ROM, most drives were this way. They used a "Caddy"
which had a slide-open window similar to a floppy disc. They were abandoned
due to cost (about 10.00 each at the time) and consumer resistance. People
wanted to use CD-ROM's like regular CD's.

Mark Z.




"Anonymous" <BigappleRemailer@Optonline.Net> wrote in message
news:RU1CC3QB37861.4327199074@anon.post...
To answer your questions:

My recorder was a HP burner.

The discs were read by both a regular CDROM and the HP burner itself.
CDs are stored in a metal box, no environmental lighting (indoor lights,
sunlight, etc) during storage. Only when they are taken out for playing but
disks are not played often. CDs are checked and then stored in the box.
I always handle the disks with great care, no scratches/fingerprints or
grease (I dont eat at my computer) on any of them at all. I am also
carefully about using anything. An example would be I dont push the CD tray
but always press the button to insert or eject the CD from the burner. I am
also annoyingly clean :), so the place is almost dust/dirt free.
Except for putting the disk into the burner, the tray is always in the
"close" postision to avoid dusts getting into the burner.

I live in a relatively dry environment (20 - 30 of humidity is the norm)
Room temperature is about 10 to 15 C. I have a low tolerance for heat, so
rooms are kept cool. The temperature will be the same in F or C, the numbers
are different due to different representation of the temperature.
Right now, I am using a Plextor drive. Hopefully there will not be any
problem.

However, I must spend a large amount of money on re-recording the CDs.

General comments:

I cant believe the technology is based on dye and not something
physical...and how come it doesnt have the cartridge to protect the disc
like floppy. Surely, it will increase the cost but isnt storage technology
supposed to store data reliably!? I cant believe they even have an
expiration date like milk!
-=-
NOTE: This message was posted via one or more anonymous remailing
services.
 
In article <MPG.19b77dd5ccee5400989c64@news.inreach.net>, Watson A.Name - 'Watt Sun' wrote:
I forgot to xpost. Oops.

In article <MPG.19b77cfec97fd703989c63@news.inreach.net>,
alondra101@hotmail.com mentioned...

I had some 9V alkalines that were only 7 or 8V, so I opened them up to
get the snap contacts. I found that of the 6 AAAA cells inside, only
[...]
and now it holds the single AAAA cell, and now I can run one of my V
boost circuits from it. But I've got better things to do than make
battery holders.

I Googled for "AAAA battery holder" and checked out pages and pages of
hits, but I still haven't been able to find an AAAA cell battery
the 9v batt. is made of "N" cells, still sold so there s/b holders
avail. --Loren (who can't believe no one knows this, did i miss it?)
holder. I've tried different combos of the words in "AAAA cell
battery holder", with and without the quotes, but I haven't been
successful. Mostly it comes back with "Nothing found. Did you mean
AAA cell holder?" I would even be satisfied with an AAAA to AAA cell
adapter. But the "AAAA AAA cell adapter" comes back nothing found.
When I do get hits, they're only for products that use the AAAA
cells.

I've been to Keystone Elect. http://www.keyelco.com/kec/pdfs/p12.pdf
and checked these contacts, but that's not what I want. What I'm
looking for is similar to one of these, but smaller.
http://www.thomas-distributing.com/battery-holders.htm
I'm looking for a plastic holder with wire leads for 1, 2, 3 or 4 AAAA
cells. Am I asking too much?
 
Thanks for the info.

I also found that when I tapped the connection at the tube very lightly the picture would go bright green then normal, as well.

Now the picture is purple and green bullseye with normal color at the extremities. It looks like the end of a Porky Pig cartoon. Could the pix need that much of a degauss that quickly?
"Arthur Jernberg" <stubby@comcast.net> wrote in message news:SvScnbyOmdDmtNKiXTWJhQ@comcast.com...
Probable a combination of the tube going bad and problems in the main circuit board, maybe the degauss circuits. Flare and smear are highly probable poor emission in the crt itself, a very common problem with zenith.
"Just Me" <rich.booth@provwash.ccoomm> wrote in message news:cWz3b.11678$j26.10607@lakeread02...
My Zenith SR3587DT was going blue/red (Red Flared a bit) for a few minutes at turn on. OK after a while. The screen would go all green then back to normal color. I was going to look for a bad connection at the Gun connector. However, tonight, I turn on and am greeted to a "Bullseye" ring of color. Green in the center, surrounded by blue/purple rings. Time on has no apparent impact. Anyone any ideas?
 
"Bill Hodgson" <whodgson@hotmail.com> wrote in message news:<Fdi2b.90603$2x.28484@rwcrnsc52.ops.asp.att.net>...
I need to replace the "Sweep Control with Lockout" IC (part # 155-0049-02)
in a Tek 468 scope.
I've looked at the following web sites with no luck;
http://www.athenaelectronics.com
http://www.sphere.bc.ca/test/tek-parts/tekparts3.html
http://www.electronicsobsolete.com/
http://www.usedtestequip.com/

And <http://www.usbid.com/catalog1/page.cfm/155/4> has them but minimum
purchase is $500.

Please let me know where I can buy one.

Bill Hodgson
billehodgson@comcast.net
---------------------------------------

Bill,

That part number also appears in the manuals for the Tek 475/4/7
(serial #s B250000 and up), the Tek 465B (serial #s B060000 and up),
and the Tek 7B92A.

It may be in other Tek models. But I could only (easily) search the
PDF manuals that I have that are in actual text format (i.e. not just
scans). [I can use the free "InfoRapid Search and Replace" software to
search ALL of my PDF files in one shot.]

Anyway, perhaps you could just buy a "parts unit" model and take the
IC from it.

Check on http://www.ebay.com . You should be able to get one for less
than $50. (You can also put an "autosearch" on ebay, so you'll be
automatically emailed whenever anything matching your search comes up
for auction. Just go to "My Ebay" and then "Favorites".)

You could also email Walter, at Sphere, to see if he can pull one, for
you. I would also contact Deane Kidd, at dektyr@teleport.com or
1-503-625-7363.

By the way, I just checked and I DO have that part in stock (qty 1
only, AFAIK). But I would probably have to put it into a working 475
scope, to verify that it's functional, since it came from a pulled
(475) sweep board. Let me know if you might be interested in
purchasing it.

Good luck!

Regards,

Tom Gootee

http://www.fullnet.com/u/tomg

---------------------------------------
 
In article <FFG3b.293656$Ho3.42148@sccrnsc03>, loren@netnews.attbi.com
mentioned...
In article <MPG.19b77dd5ccee5400989c64@news.inreach.net>, Watson A.Name - 'Watt Sun' wrote:
I forgot to xpost. Oops.

In article <MPG.19b77cfec97fd703989c63@news.inreach.net>,
alondra101@hotmail.com mentioned...

I had some 9V alkalines that were only 7 or 8V, so I opened them up to
get the snap contacts. I found that of the 6 AAAA cells inside, only
[...]
and now it holds the single AAAA cell, and now I can run one of my V
boost circuits from it. But I've got better things to do than make
battery holders.

I Googled for "AAAA battery holder" and checked out pages and pages of
hits, but I still haven't been able to find an AAAA cell battery

the 9v batt. is made of "N" cells, still sold so there s/b holders
avail. --Loren (who can't believe no one knows this, did i miss it?)
All of the 9V batts I've pulled apart in the last decade or more have
been made from six cells, each almost as long as the body of the 9V
batt, not counting the contacts, etc. These cells are smaller in
diameter than the AAA cell, and slightly shorter. They have no
markings but are about the same size as an AAAA cell, which can be
purchased at Rat Shack, or other such stores.

The only other type of 9V battery that I remember seeing was the ones
with six sandwich cells, each rectangular and about 1/6 the height of
the 9V battery. These were made of carbon and zinc.

The N cell is about 2/3 the length of an AA cell, and almost the same
diameter. You could not fit 6 of them inside of a 9V battery case.

See http://data.energizer.com and click on datasheets and consumer to
get a list of the battery specifications like length, diameter, etc.

[snip]

--
@@F@r@o@m@@O@r@a@n@g@e@@C@o@u@n@t@y@,@@C@a@l@,@@w@h@e@r@e@@
###Got a Question about ELECTRONICS? Check HERE First:###
http://users.pandora.be/educypedia/electronics/databank.htm
My email address is whitelisted. *All* email sent to it
goes directly to the trash unless you add NOSPAM in the
Subject: line with other stuff. alondra101 <at> hotmail.com
Don't be ripped off by the big book dealers. Go to the URL
that will give you a choice and save you money(up to half).
http://www.everybookstore.com You'll be glad you did!
Just when you thought you had all this figured out, the gov't
changed it: http://physics.nist.gov/cuu/Units/binary.html
@@t@h@e@@a@f@f@l@u@e@n@t@@m@e@e@t@@t@h@e@@E@f@f@l@u@e@n@t@@
 
Loren Coe wrote:

the 9v batt. is made of "N" cells, still sold so there s/b holders
avail. --Loren (who can't believe no one knows this, did i miss it?)

No they are not! 9V batteries are now made of a "AAAA" sized cell.
"N" cells are about 1.15" x 0.4" in size.

-Chuck
 
Jack <no@nospam.com> wrote in message news:<MPG.19b86254244dcb639896f9@post.newsfeeds.com>...
*** post for FREE via your newsreader at post.newsfeed.com ***

Thanks to both for the help.

I wasn't able to get the corona dope, so I painted up the area with clear
nail polish, using many coats. That stopped the HV sparking.

The tv seemed to then work mostly okay. (The were some new anomolies:
when turning it on, a loud crack would come from the speaker. Also, after
turning it off, a warbling whistle would come from the speaker a moment
later. The tv would always come back on set to channel 2.)

BUT... now a new problem. After playing the tv for a while, then turning
it off, I can't get it on again! I hear the relay turn on, then it turns
itself right back off. If I let the tv sit for a protracted time, only
then can I get it to come on.

Is it a heat problem? Something else?
Probably the HV arcing where it shouldn't has damaged the start-up
circuitry or weakened one of the chips .

My E0.01245645 worth

On 27 Aug 2003 13:39:53 -0400, Sam Goldwasser <sam@saul.cis.upenn.edu
wrote:

Jack <no@nospam.com> writes:

Also, there was a small spot of some black, rubbery substance that
looked
liked it had been applied many years ago. I'm certainly going to try
to
find the corona dope that CJT recommends. Radio Shack doesn't seem to
carry it, though.

That will hopefully do the trick.



-----= Posted via Newsfeed.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =-----
http://www.newsfeed.com - The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World!
-----== 100,000 Groups! - 19 Servers! - Unlimited Download! =-----
 
"Ctenos" <spamctenos@att.net (reply w/o spam)> wrote in message
news:_Cw3b.119083$3o3.8346444@bgtnsc05-news.ops.worldnet.att.net...
I need a few 6BAx5/8" (or longer) screws, in any usual metal. Not really
an
electronic item per se, but someone in another NG suggested an electronics
supplier.

[snip]

Check with a place that sells parts for British cars or motorcycles. As a
longshot, Sam Avellino used to have a Royal Enfield distributorship in the
Boston area, but that was a years ago.

Frank Dresser
 
mike <spamme0@juno.com> wrote in message news:<3F4E888A.8080400@juno.com>...
I have a Magellan GPS310 that sits there acquiring and losing
satellites without ever getting a position fix.
Is there a secret key combination to reset the thing?
Sounds like the RF front end may be damaged, or a loose aerial plug
inside.

Failing that, how does one get it open? I'd hate to take
a hacksaw to it and find out I only had to "push here".
Usually "hidden" catches. It may be ultrasonically welded if it is a
waterproof model..

mike
--
Bunch of stuff For Sale and Wanted at the link below.
laptops and parts
4in/400Wout ham linear amp.
Honda CB-125S
400cc Dirt Bike 2003 miles $450
Police Scanner, Color LCD overhead projector
Tek 2465 $800, ham radio, 30pS pulser
Tektronix Concept Books, spot welding head...
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Monitor/4710/
 
Andre wrote:
mike <spamme0@juno.com> wrote in message news:<3F4E888A.8080400@juno.com>...

I have a Magellan GPS310 that sits there acquiring and losing
satellites without ever getting a position fix.
Is there a secret key combination to reset the thing?



Sounds like the RF front end may be damaged, or a loose aerial plug
inside.


Failing that, how does one get it open? I'd hate to take
a hacksaw to it and find out I only had to "push here".


Usually "hidden" catches. It may be ultrasonically welded if it is a
waterproof model..


mike
Thanks for the input, but I stll need answers to the questions I asked.
How do I reset it? worth a try...
What is the exact procedure to open the case? eg, how to release the
"hidden catches".
Surely I'm not the only one ever to want to disassemble a Magellan...
Thanks,
mike


--
Bunch of stuff For Sale and Wanted at the link below.
laptops and parts
4in/400Wout ham linear amp.
Honda CB-125S
400cc Dirt Bike 2003 miles $450
Police Scanner, Color LCD overhead projector
Tek 2465 $800, ham radio, 30pS pulser
Tektronix Concept Books, spot welding head...
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Monitor/4710/
 
"I am not sure if how you mean by conventional readers (such as CD player,
etc?)."

Yes.

"I was just saying if they can accept as a standard for CDROM, CD-R or other CD
mediums with the cartridge or some jewell case arrangement so that readers can
accept them. All CD types should come with the same protection casing, not just
CD-Rs."

But, unlike VHS cassette, CD discs did not require additional measures of
protection as long as you handled your discs properly.

"Actually, FujiFilm CDs were among the CDs with errors. I thought they were
good brand (two years ago.) I am still using Fujifilms. Would the newer ones be
better than the old ones?"

That's funny. My Fujifilms write at 8x with a 99.5 accuracy rating on my Sony
CRX-140E, according to Nero CD Speed diagnostic. I also have Fuji discs from
1999 and 2000 which still play without problems. The 1999 discs were 74 minute
and manufactured by TDK in Japan, while the 2000 discs were 80 minute and made
by Taiyo Yuden in Japan.

Right now, Fujifilm discs are still made by Taiyo Yuden in Japan, and they
still earn positive impressions from people who deal with CD-Rs.

I also have Hewlett-Packard and Sony CD-R discs from 2000 and 2001 which were
made by Taiyo Yuden, and they also still play perfectly. The same kind of
Taiyo Yuden discs used to make Fujifilm media are also used for Maxell's "Pro"
line of CD-Rs!

"I am using the Plextor 40/12/40A now, is this a good burner?"

Yes. It's a very good burner, which is typical for Plextor.

It's possible that your HP writer may have had a compatibility issue with Taiyo
Yuden discs, which comprise the majority of discs from Fujifilm. A
compatibility issue doesn't always manifest itself as an outright inability to
write data on the disc properly. It can also manifest itself as a problem with
writing an incompatible disc with high C1 and C2 errors, but not enough to be
noticeable unless you had the discs checked for them.

But this is unusual as Sony drives usually write on Taiyo Yuden discs quite
well. Your HP is based on the Sony CRX-100E Spressa. It's possible that your
drive may have had a defect or possibly required a firmware update.

Your Plextor should have no problem with Taiyo Yuden discs. As a matter of
fact, Plextor CD-R media is also OEMed by Taiyo Yuden! They are THAT good of a
disc.

I also used to own a CRX-100E, but my old burner worked with Fuji discs
perfectly. I bought a replacement because I wanted a slightly faster writer.

You already have a quality writer. The only suggestion I should make is that
you do not write at the fastest speed unless you are really pressed for time
and if the media is rated for it. It's an old-school thought, but you do tend
to make more reliable recordings when it's done at a slower speed. - Reinhart
 
"Watson A.Name - 'Watt Sun'" wrote:
In article <3F4ECF06.CFB28ED1@earthlink.net>,
mike.terrell@earthlink.net mentioned...
"Watson A.Name - 'Watt Sun'" wrote:
[snip]

Well, has anyone found a true AAAA cell holder?? Still looking..

Have you looked at Keystone? They always had the best assortment of
battery holders when I needed an oddball. http://www.keyelco.com/

Ssomebody chopped the part of my post that had the keystone URl on it.
So, yes, I tried that.

Well, Mike, you've mentioned the lightning storms in central Florida,
which is the worst place for lightning in the U.S. Can you top this
one? The son of the lady at work lives on Glenwood Springs, Colo,
which is close to Eagle, CO, where all this Kobe Bryant stuff is going
on. She talked to him the other day, and he said that they had really
bad lightning storms, so bad that at night the sky was nearly like
daytime, there were so many lightning strikes. Because of the forests
they have to keep track of the number of lightning strikes, and
between Glenwood Spgs and Vail, they had 5100 lightning strikes in 7
days, that's 728 per day avg!

Must've been an awesome light show!

--
There was a storm a couple months ago that had 1000 strikes in a
little over a half hour.


--


Michael A. Terrell
Central Florida
 
All the intelligent chargers that I have worked with, will flash and go
to a standby trickle charge when the battery is charged. The non
intelligent ones keep frying the battery. If the battery is very warm
to the touch after about 12 to 15 hours I am sure that it is being
overcharged.

Read the specs on the charger and battery to work out the proper charge
time. When this time has expired, remove the battery from the charger.

If you cannot do this, get an AC type timer and program it for this.
You can get some nice timers for light controlling at most hardware
centres. Make sure that the timer is rated for transformer devices. If
the timer can work with a florescent type lamp that uses a ballast
transformer, it can work with your charger.

--

Greetings,

Jerry Greenberg GLG Technologies GLG
==============================================
WebPage http://www.zoom-one.com
Electronics http://www.zoom-one.com/electron.htm
Instruments http://www.zoom-one.com/glgtech.htm
==============================================
"Sam Kaan" <cadnewbie@canada.com> wrote in message
news:47f5d97d.0308292254.54195e5e@posting.google.com...
How can you tell if a NIMH battery charger is of the intelligent type
or non intelligent. I recently bought a V-2833 charger and notice
after 15hours the LED won't blink off, so I pulled it out of the wall
outlet. Now I am wondering if the charger is the dumb type (won't
shut off even when battery is fully charged). The model I bought is
exactly these ones here. Anyone know if its the dumb or smart
charter? I got it for a good price.

http://www.saveateagle.com/nimbatcharw4.html
http://quovadis.tv/2833.html
 
In article <3F4FFE14.FA2564E7@earthlink.net>,
mike.terrell@earthlink.net mentioned...
"Watson A.Name - 'Watt Sun'" wrote:

In article <3F4ECF06.CFB28ED1@earthlink.net>,
mike.terrell@earthlink.net mentioned...
"Watson A.Name - 'Watt Sun'" wrote:
[snip]

Well, has anyone found a true AAAA cell holder?? Still looking..

Have you looked at Keystone? They always had the best assortment of
battery holders when I needed an oddball. http://www.keyelco.com/

Ssomebody chopped the part of my post that had the keystone URl on it.
So, yes, I tried that.

Well, Mike, you've mentioned the lightning storms in central Florida,
which is the worst place for lightning in the U.S. Can you top this
one? The son of the lady at work lives on Glenwood Springs, Colo,
which is close to Eagle, CO, where all this Kobe Bryant stuff is going
on. She talked to him the other day, and he said that they had really
bad lightning storms, so bad that at night the sky was nearly like
daytime, there were so many lightning strikes. Because of the forests
they have to keep track of the number of lightning strikes, and
between Glenwood Spgs and Vail, they had 5100 lightning strikes in 7
days, that's 728 per day avg!

Must've been an awesome light show!

--
There was a storm a couple months ago that had 1000 strikes in a
little over a half hour.
Looks like you beat it. Must be kind of wild living under Thor's
hammer. http://www.pitt.edu/~dash/thor.html


--
@@F@r@o@m@@O@r@a@n@g@e@@C@o@u@n@t@y@,@@C@a@l@,@@w@h@e@r@e@@
###Got a Question about ELECTRONICS? Check HERE First:###
http://users.pandora.be/educypedia/electronics/databank.htm
My email address is whitelisted. *All* email sent to it
goes directly to the trash unless you add NOSPAM in the
Subject: line with other stuff. alondra101 <at> hotmail.com
Don't be ripped off by the big book dealers. Go to the URL
that will give you a choice and save you money(up to half).
http://www.everybookstore.com You'll be glad you did!
Just when you thought you had all this figured out, the gov't
changed it: http://physics.nist.gov/cuu/Units/binary.html
@@t@h@e@@a@f@f@l@u@e@n@t@@m@e@e@t@@t@h@e@@E@f@f@l@u@e@n@t@@
 
In article <FFG3b.293656$Ho3.42148@sccrnsc03>, loren@netnews.attbi.com
mentioned...
In article <MPG.19b77dd5ccee5400989c64@news.inreach.net>, Watson A.Name - 'Watt Sun' wrote:
I forgot to xpost. Oops.

In article <MPG.19b77cfec97fd703989c63@news.inreach.net>,
alondra101@hotmail.com mentioned...

I had some 9V alkalines that were only 7 or 8V, so I opened them up to
get the snap contacts. I found that of the 6 AAAA cells inside, only
[...]
and now it holds the single AAAA cell, and now I can run one of my V
boost circuits from it. But I've got better things to do than make
battery holders.

I Googled for "AAAA battery holder" and checked out pages and pages of
hits, but I still haven't been able to find an AAAA cell battery

the 9v batt. is made of "N" cells, still sold so there s/b holders
avail. --Loren (who can't believe no one knows this, did i miss it?)
I posted a reply but my old ISP's server must've trashed it. The N
cell is almost the same diameter as a AA cell, and about 2/3 as long.
You couldn't get 6 of those inside the case of a 9V battery. The
cells in a 9V are each slightly smaller than an AAA cell, without any
markings on them. They are called AAAA cells, not N cells.


holder. I've tried different combos of the words in "AAAA cell
battery holder", with and without the quotes, but I haven't been
successful. Mostly it comes back with "Nothing found. Did you mean
AAA cell holder?" I would even be satisfied with an AAAA to AAA cell
adapter. But the "AAAA AAA cell adapter" comes back nothing found.
When I do get hits, they're only for products that use the AAAA
cells.

I've been to Keystone Elect. http://www.keyelco.com/kec/pdfs/p12.pdf
and checked these contacts, but that's not what I want. What I'm
looking for is similar to one of these, but smaller.
http://www.thomas-distributing.com/battery-holders.htm
I'm looking for a plastic holder with wire leads for 1, 2, 3 or 4 AAAA
cells. Am I asking too much?
--
@@F@r@o@m@@O@r@a@n@g@e@@C@o@u@n@t@y@,@@C@a@l@,@@w@h@e@r@e@@
###Got a Question about ELECTRONICS? Check HERE First:###
http://users.pandora.be/educypedia/electronics/databank.htm
My email address is whitelisted. *All* email sent to it
goes directly to the trash unless you add NOSPAM in the
Subject: line with other stuff. alondra101 <at> hotmail.com
Don't be ripped off by the big book dealers. Go to the URL
that will give you a choice and save you money(up to half).
http://www.everybookstore.com You'll be glad you did!
Just when you thought you had all this figured out, the gov't
changed it: http://physics.nist.gov/cuu/Units/binary.html
@@t@h@e@@a@f@f@l@u@e@n@t@@m@e@e@t@@t@h@e@@E@f@f@l@u@e@n@t@@
 
On Thu, 28 Aug 2003 02:17:41 +0100, Jim Yanik wrote:

Bad news here;TEK did not make service manuals with real schematics and
component parts lists for the TDS series scopes,and the PS were
purchased units.The TDS scopes are intended to be module-exchange
service only
Tek have gone right down the pan.

I suspect MBAs at work :-(

--
Then there's duct tape ...
(Garrison Keillor)
nofr@sbhevre.pbzchyvax.pb.hx
 
don't know because when i plug in the tv the high voltage goes up and pop
the transistor shorts out!


What is the standby voltage on the HOT ??
kip

Set came in shop with shorted Horz output transistor. Replace part and
power
up tv and high voltage came up and pop horz output thansistor shorted!
Any
ideas??

Thanks
Check driver transfomer horz output transformer and caps.

No luck.
 
Ok ! Then trouble shoot the SMPS...with the HOT out of circuit.

kip

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don't know because when i plug in the tv the high voltage goes up and pop
the transistor shorts out!


What is the standby voltage on the HOT ??
kip

Set came in shop with shorted Horz output transistor. Replace part and
power
up tv and high voltage came up and pop horz output thansistor shorted!
Any
ideas??

Thanks
Check driver transfomer horz output transformer and caps.

No luck.
 

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