Toshiba TV29C90 problem; Image fades to black...

[Kota]

"Per-Olof Ahl" <Per-Olof.ahlnospam@swipnet.se> wrote in message news:<bi5ums$t4b$1@yggdrasil.utfors.se>...

Its probably the VDP3108 , you need to buy the VDP3108 Kit if its the
old VDP3108 (obsolete) , the new one is VDP3108A PPA1.

The kit also contain Eprom , 2 Surface mounted capacitors.
Kit Art.Number TZS9EK0021

/ Per-Olof

Thanks Per-Olof.

I already ordered and received the kit TZS9EK0021 you mentioned. It
contains all the items you said. The chip on the PCB however, is the
VDP3108A, so I suppose its the new one. The chip in the kit also says
VDP3108A. I suppose I can use this chip to replace, and not use the
provided EPROM. Or should I still order another replacement?

Erik

 

[Don ßailey]

Thanks for the help.

I finally got a large enough Magnifying glass.

The diodes in question are indeed 1n4742a.

Zeners.

Got more on order with Digikey today. I hope this
works.

Thanks again.

db

 

[Dave Dixson]

I have had a quote to get it fixed for Ł50. Given that it is an 8
year old set, and that I can get an equivilent new set for around
Ł150, do you think it would be worth getting it fixed?

If the fixed tv lasts more than 2 or 3 years I guess it would be worth
it to stay with the current set. On the other hand, if the fixed set
breaks in a year or so, I would be better off getting a new set now.
Any thoughts?

Dave.

 

[Sam Goldwasser]

Jack <no@nospam.com> writes:

Nope, everything worked fine - except for the occasional sparking which
seemed to happen on humid days, and then this bad sparking.

There is also that bad nearby resistor. Could that be the ultimate cause?

No way to know without the schematic. But if it was just arcing to
that resistor, then it just provided a convenient path to ground.

Also, there was a small spot of some black, rubbery substance that looked
liked it had been applied many years ago. I'm certainly going to try to
find the corona dope that CJT recommends. Radio Shack doesn't seem to
carry it, though.

That will hopefully do the trick.

--- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ Home Page: http://www.repairfaq.org/
Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/
+Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/lasersam.htm
| Mirror Site Info: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/F_mirror.html

Important: The email address in this message header may no longer work. To
contact me, please use the Feedback Form at repairfaq.org. Thanks.

 

[Per-Olof Ahl]

I already ordered and received the kit TZS9EK0021 you mentioned. It
contains all the items you said. The chip on the PCB however, is the
VDP3108A, so I suppose its the new one. The chip in the kit also says
VDP3108A. I suppose I can use this chip to replace, and not use the
provided EPROM. Or should I still order another replacement?

As the price is about the same here in sweden for the kit VS the
"VDP3108A PPA1" i allways order the kit.

If i remember correctly the VDP3108A on that kit is the "A1" version
of the VDP , are you sure it isnt printed "A1" on the ic on that kit?

If it is, and the faulty VDP hasnt that mark "PP A1" or "A1" then you
need to change the eprom and add the capacitors!

/ Per-Olof

 

[Arthur Jernberg]

It is your personal choice, however with the improvements within the last 8
years it may be worth getting the new product, plus the new warrenty. IMHO
Cheers
"Dave Dixson" <dave.dixson_nospam@bigfoot.com> wrote in message
news:76c0e2e9.0308270833.743279b3@posting.google.com...

I have had a quote to get it fixed for Ł50. Given that it is an 8
year old set, and that I can get an equivilent new set for around
Ł150, do you think it would be worth getting it fixed?

If the fixed tv lasts more than 2 or 3 years I guess it would be worth
it to stay with the current set. On the other hand, if the fixed set
breaks in a year or so, I would be better off getting a new set now.
Any thoughts?

Dave.

 

[Larry P]

If a resistor has changed values, chances are that its being cooked. try a
higher wattage one next time


"JohnAce" <johnace@aol.com> wrote in message
news:20030826213644.21270.00000757@mb-m10.aol.com...

Thanks, What I found were 2 open resistors on the sweep board. One was
open and
the other changed in Value. Thanks again

 

[William R. Walsh]

Hi!

Well, neither of these posts really answers the question. So the cartridge
may be useless, what about the ROM chips?

And yes, the MacOS is pretty well a useless operating system. OS X is only
worse. (No flames thank you, I own and use plenty of Apple equipment
alongside Windows (NT/9x), OS/2, Linux, CE, and DOS...) It's too bad Apple
can't come up with something vastly better and faster.

William

 

[William R. Walsh]

Get yourself a GOOD older blender. Such a thing might cost a few bucks at a
garage sale. Personally, I have an old Oster unit. That thing is powerful
enough to make smoothies from cinder blocks if I had the desire to do so!

Most modern blenders and all so-called drink makers of any sort are
embarrassing by compare. They don't work well and die pretty quickly. I have
seen fan motors that had more power.

William

 

[Robert Morein]

"Angus Thomson" <angi_fungi@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:3g63b.54$7T3.33@newsfep1-gui.server.ntli.net...

Hi

I recently aquired an old(ish) Tektronix digital scope which is faulty and
does not start up; instead, the power turns on for 1/2 of a second then
off
for 1/2 a second and a 'clicking' noise comes from the unit (this process
repeats). I take it this is a faulty power supply, possibly tripping out
due
to excessive current being drawn. I have heard this problem has occured on
other Tektronix scopes; has anyone had any experince of this fault, and if
so, where exactly does the problem lie?!

Thanks!

Angus Thomson

In general, anywhere.

Look for shorted tantalum caps.
If possible, disconnect subassemblies.

 

[Jim Yanik]

"Angus Thomson" <angi_fungi@hotmail.com> wrote in
news:3g63b.54$7T3.33@newsfep1-gui.server.ntli.net:

Hi

I recently aquired an old(ish) Tektronix digital scope which is faulty
and does not start up; instead, the power turns on for 1/2 of a second
then off for 1/2 a second and a 'clicking' noise comes from the unit
(this process repeats). I take it this is a faulty power supply,
possibly tripping out due to excessive current being drawn. I have
heard this problem has occured on other Tektronix scopes; has anyone
had any experince of this fault, and if so, where exactly does the
problem lie?!

Thanks!

Angus Thomson

Bad news here;TEK did not make service manuals with real schematics and
component parts lists for the TDS series scopes,and the PS were purchased
units.The TDS scopes are intended to be module-exchange service only,and
you will have to check the LTPS( long term product support) list at
www.tek.com to see if your particular scope model is still supported.But
TEK support will be expensive.

I would begin by using a DMM to check the rectifier diodes in the PS,and an
ESR meter to check electrolytic caps.

--
Jim Yanik,NRA member
jyanik@kua.net

 

[James Sweet]

Depends how nice the pic was on your old set and the overall quality of the
new set you're considering. Much new equipment is very cheaply constructed
disposeable garbage, but then something made 8 years ago may be as well,
it's hard to say without more details. I'm always one to repair rather than
replace when possible though.

"Dave Dixson" <dave.dixson_nospam@bigfoot.com> wrote in message
news:76c0e2e9.0308270833.743279b3@posting.google.com...

I have had a quote to get it fixed for Ł50. Given that it is an 8
year old set, and that I can get an equivilent new set for around
Ł150, do you think it would be worth getting it fixed?

If the fixed tv lasts more than 2 or 3 years I guess it would be worth
it to stay with the current set. On the other hand, if the fixed set
breaks in a year or so, I would be better off getting a new set now.
Any thoughts?

Dave.

 

[FSMüller]

There are "zero degree (celsius) chips that generate a compensation
voltage referred to the ambient temperature like the comprensation part
of the thermocouple, AD makes them an LT too.

Frank

Bill wrote:

I have a digital multimeter that measures temperature with a "type K"
thermal probe. I believe this is a chromel alumel thermocouple.

A thermocouple normally generates a voltage which is proportional to the
difference in temperature between two junctions. In the lab if one junction
is held at a know temperature, usually iced water, and the other junction is
held at the temperature to be measured. The temperature difference between
the two junctions generates a small voltage that is proportional to the
difference between the two junctions.

Ok so what does the multimeter do to control the reference temperature? The
multimeter is at used in varying ambient temperatures so it would seem that
there must be some for of compensation going on. Any ideas how this works.

My experience with this unit is that it is not very accurate around normal
ambient temperatures.

Bill

 

[Wdyorchid]

Should I clean the female receptacle with knife and spray them electronic
contact spray? What is this formula that people spray on car battery terminal
to stop corrosion? If resistance increases with age, should I be able to use
an ohmmetter?
Thanks.
w-orchid


::The other thing to remember , is that a light-bulbs filament
:resistance increases with age .
:You might find a non-automotive use for the old bulbs , like 12v
:lighting when the 110 power fails .
:The ground connections may also be corroded as they always get in
:almost all vehicles in a few years .
;tim , CET , ASE , ETC...

Contacts are oxydiesed and current flowing thru them is decreased. This
triggers the safety warning light.
The soldering on the after market bulbs is very bad. Redo solderings ON
BULBS only with better one (prefer 2% cu included).

"Wdyorchid" <wdyorchid@aol.com> wrote in message
news:20030824075921.11748.00000461@mb-m11.aol.com...
My Honda seems to tell me that my bulbs are burnt out by constantly show a
warning light on the instrument gauges. Here's how the system works:
when the
brakes are applied the control unit detect bulb action and doesn't show a
warning light on the instrument gauges. If a bulb isn't detected then it
display a warning light.

The problem is that even though bulbs are okay, replacing with fresh bulbs
are
the only way to make the warning light go away. What is causing the
circuit to
trip? Here take a look at what I'm taking about in color diagram.
http://autotails.tripod.com/brakes.htm

 

[Wdyorchid]

If it fits & shines bright, it should work, I thought. I'll start looking at
wattages from now on.
Thanks

Make sure the bulbs are the correct wattage.(including high level stoplight
if applicable) Al
"Wdyorchid" <wdyorchid@aol.com> wrote in message
news:20030824075921.11748.00000461@mb-m11.aol.com...
My Honda seems to tell me that my bulbs are burnt out by constantly show a
warning light on the instrument gauges. Here's how the system works:
when the
brakes are applied the control unit detect bulb action and doesn't show a
warning light on the instrument gauges. If a bulb isn't detected then it
display a warning light.

The problem is that even though bulbs are okay, replacing with fresh bulbs
are
the only way to make the warning light go away. What is causing the
circuit to
trip? Here take a look at what I'm taking about in color diagram.
http://autotails.tripod.com/brakes.htm

 

[Watson A.Name - 'Watt Sun]

I forgot to xpost. Oops.

In article <MPG.19b77cfec97fd703989c63@news.inreach.net>,
alondra101@hotmail.com mentioned...

I had some 9V alkalines that were only 7 or 8V, so I opened them up to
get the snap contacts. I found that of the 6 AAAA cells inside, only
one was bad, the other 5 had some life in them. So I decided to make
up a throwaway LED light, by soldering three AAAA cells, a resistor
and white LED, with some black electrical tape to hold them together.
I tried to solder a wire onto the top of one of the AAAA cells, but it
went PFFFT! and the top popped off and spat hot juice out. At which
time I said, maybe this isn't such a good idea, and went to the bench
and rigged up a battery holder. I cut out some springy metal contacts
and drilled some holes and mounted them to a piece of blank PC board,
and now it holds the single AAAA cell, and now I can run one of my V
boost circuits from it. But I've got better things to do than make
battery holders.

I Googled for "AAAA battery holder" and checked out pages and pages of
hits, but I still haven't been able to find an AAAA cell battery
holder. I've tried different combos of the words in "AAAA cell
battery holder", with and without the quotes, but I haven't been
successful. Mostly it comes back with "Nothing found. Did you mean
AAA cell holder?" I would even be satisfied with an AAAA to AAA cell
adapter. But the "AAAA AAA cell adapter" comes back nothing found.
When I do get hits, they're only for products that use the AAAA
cells.

I've been to Keystone Elect. http://www.keyelco.com/kec/pdfs/p12.pdf
and checked these contacts, but that's not what I want. What I'm
looking for is similar to one of these, but smaller.
http://www.thomas-distributing.com/battery-holders.htm
I'm looking for a plastic holder with wire leads for 1, 2, 3 or 4 AAAA
cells. Am I asking too much?

--
@@F@r@o@m@@O@r@a@n@g@e@@C@o@u@n@t@y@,@@C@a@l@,@@w@h@e@r@e@@
###Got a Question about ELECTRONICS? Check HERE First:###
http://users.pandora.be/educypedia/electronics/databank.htm
My email address is whitelisted. *All* email sent to it
goes directly to the trash unless you add NOSPAM in the
Subject: line with other stuff. alondra101 <at> hotmail.com
Don't be ripped off by the big book dealers. Go to the URL
that will give you a choice and save you money(up to half).
http://www.everybookstore.com You'll be glad you did!
Just when you thought you had all this figured out, the gov't
changed it: http://physics.nist.gov/cuu/Units/binary.html
@@t@h@e@@a@f@f@l@u@e@n@t@@m@e@e@t@@t@h@e@@E@f@f@l@u@e@n@t@@

 

[Ricardo Matos Abreu]

"Wdyorchid" <wdyorchid@aol.com> wrote in message
news:20030828051521.22114.00000027@mb-m04.aol.com...

If it fits & shines bright, it should work, I thought. I'll start looking
at
wattages from now on.
Thanks

Make sure the bulbs are the correct wattage.(including high level
stoplight
if applicable) Al
"Wdyorchid" <wdyorchid@aol.com> wrote in message
news:20030824075921.11748.00000461@mb-m11.aol.com...
My Honda seems to tell me that my bulbs are burnt out by constantly
show a
warning light on the instrument gauges. Here's how the system works:
when the
brakes are applied the control unit detect bulb action and doesn't show
a
warning light on the instrument gauges. If a bulb isn't detected then
it
display a warning light.

The problem is that even though bulbs are okay, replacing with fresh
bulbs
are
the only way to make the warning light go away. What is causing the
circuit to
trip? Here take a look at what I'm taking about in color diagram.
http://autotails.tripod.com/brakes.htm

Do you always have to change the very same bulb? Is so, the associated relay
may be marginal. When the coil current is just slightly smaller (i.e., old
lamp) the relay doesn't close and the indicator lights up.

Ricardo

 

[Anonymous]

To answer your questions:

My recorder was a HP burner.

The discs were read by both a regular CDROM and the HP burner itself.
CDs are stored in a metal box, no environmental lighting (indoor lights, sunlight, etc) during storage. Only when they are taken out for playing but disks are not played often. CDs are checked and then stored in the box.

I always handle the disks with great care, no scratches/fingerprints or grease (I dont eat at my computer) on any of them at all. I am also carefully about using anything. An example would be I dont push the CD tray but always press the button to insert or eject the CD from the burner. I am also annoyingly clean , so the place is almost dust/dirt free.
Except for putting the disk into the burner, the tray is always in the "close" postision to avoid dusts getting into the burner.

I live in a relatively dry environment (20 - 30 of humidity is the norm)
Room temperature is about 10 to 15 C. I have a low tolerance for heat, so rooms are kept cool. The temperature will be the same in F or C, the numbers are different due to different representation of the temperature.


Right now, I am using a Plextor drive. Hopefully there will not be any problem.

However, I must spend a large amount of money on re-recording the CDs.

General comments:

I cant believe the technology is based on dye and not something physical...and how come it doesnt have the cartridge to protect the disc like floppy. Surely, it will increase the cost but isnt storage technology supposed to store data reliably!? I cant believe they even have an expiration date like milk!
-=-
NOTE: This message was posted via one or more anonymous remailing services.

 

[LASERandDVDfan]

My recorder was a HP burner.

What model?

Sorry for not asking before. HP have had their drives made by various
manufacturers.

I always handle the disks with great care, no scratches/fingerprints or
grease (I dont eat at my computer) on any of them at all.

On both sides of the disc?

I live in a relatively dry environment (20 - 30 of humidity is the norm)
Room temperature is about 10 to 15 C. I have a low tolerance for heat, so
rooms are kept cool. The temperature will be the same in F or C, the numbers
are different due to different representation of the temperature.

That rules out the temperature issue.

Right now, I am using a Plextor drive. Hopefully there will not be any
problem.

However, I must spend a large amount of money on re-recording the CDs

General comments:

I cant believe the technology is based on dye and not something
physical...and how come it doesnt have the cartridge to protect the disc like
floppy. Surely, it will increase the cost but isnt storage technology
supposed to store data reliably!?

How else can the information be written on the disc through using heat that
won't damage the disc itself in the process?

As for using a cartridge, not only does that add additional costs, but if you
cannot take the disc out of the cartridge then one of its prime selling points
is negated. The prime selling point is being able to use the disc in other CD
readers, from computer CD-ROM drives to most audio CD players.

I cant believe they even have an expiration

date like milk!
-=-

A lot of bargain fodder discs last only about 6 years, tops. However, higher
quality discs can last anywhere from 10-20 years. Some have claims to lasting
over 50-100 years.

However, expiration of recordable CDs is very much like the expiration of
magnetic media. Both forms of media can have problems with breakdown over the
years. CD-R discs will hold up to normal use without wearing out, unlike
contact magnetic media. But, just like the binder breaking down on a
videotape, the dye layer can also deteriorate through age and other factors.
The only question is, when will they go south?

If you want to make sure your stuff will last, then make sure to get only high
quality media. Obviously you know of this as Maxell is fairly decent and Fuji
is among the best, although Sony has not been faring well with their media.

If I would make a recommendation, use only Fujifilm. Their discs are cheap and
are made for Fuji in Japan by Taiyo Yuden, which is well known in making less
error-prone discs in comparison to the competition.

Of course, check the packaging first to see if the discs were made in Japan.
If not, then they are not made by Taiyo Yuden. - Reinhart

 

[Gerry Schneider]

"Watson A.Name - 'Watt Sun'" wrote:

I forgot to xpost. Oops.

In article <MPG.19b77cfec97fd703989c63@news.inreach.net>,
alondra101@hotmail.com mentioned...

I had some 9V alkalines that were only 7 or 8V, so I opened them up to
get the snap contacts. I found that of the 6 AAAA cells inside, only
one was bad, the other 5 had some life in them. So I decided to make
up a throwaway LED light, by soldering three AAAA cells, a resistor
and white LED, with some black electrical tape to hold them together.
I tried to solder a wire onto the top of one of the AAAA cells, but it
went PFFFT! and the top popped off and spat hot juice out. At which
time I said, maybe this isn't such a good idea, and went to the bench
and rigged up a battery holder. I cut out some springy metal contacts
and drilled some holes and mounted them to a piece of blank PC board,
and now it holds the single AAAA cell, and now I can run one of my V
boost circuits from it. But I've got better things to do than make
battery holders.

I Googled for "AAAA battery holder" and checked out pages and pages of
hits, but I still haven't been able to find an AAAA cell battery
holder. I've tried different combos of the words in "AAAA cell
battery holder", with and without the quotes, but I haven't been
successful. Mostly it comes back with "Nothing found. Did you mean
AAA cell holder?" I would even be satisfied with an AAAA to AAA cell
adapter. But the "AAAA AAA cell adapter" comes back nothing found.
When I do get hits, they're only for products that use the AAAA
cells.

I've been to Keystone Elect. http://www.keyelco.com/kec/pdfs/p12.pdf
and checked these contacts, but that's not what I want. What I'm
looking for is similar to one of these, but smaller.
http://www.thomas-distributing.com/battery-holders.htm
I'm looking for a plastic holder with wire leads for 1, 2, 3 or 4 AAAA
cells. Am I asking too much?


--
@@F@r@o@m@@O@r@a@n@g@e@@C@o@u@n@t@y@,@@C@a@l@,@@w@h@e@r@e@@
###Got a Question about ELECTRONICS? Check HERE First:###
http://users.pandora.be/educypedia/electronics/databank.htm
My email address is whitelisted. *All* email sent to it
goes directly to the trash unless you add NOSPAM in the
Subject: line with other stuff. alondra101 <at> hotmail.com
Don't be ripped off by the big book dealers. Go to the URL
that will give you a choice and save you money(up to half).
http://www.everybookstore.com You'll be glad you did!
Just when you thought you had all this figured out, the gov't
changed it: http://physics.nist.gov/cuu/Units/binary.html
@@t@h@e@@a@f@f@l@u@e@n@t@@m@e@e@t@@t@h@e@@E@f@f@l@u@e@n@t@@

A standard AAA holder from Digi Key (2480K-ND for a triple) holds AAAA cells
just fine, but obviously isn't the most compact solution. With regard to
soldering - the AAAA cells I've removed from 9V batts all have welded
solderable strips attached at both ends - careful soldering to the tab end
followed by a quick dip in an ice bath has worked well so far with no cell
venting.

Gerry