Toshiba TV29C90 problem; Image fades to black...

If you follow the circuit from where the power enters, you should
eventually end up at a bridge rectifier, or set of diode rectifiers.
After these diodes are the main filter caps. They are usually the big
ones. Replace them to start. More than likely this is the fault. The
120 Hz bars is 2 X the AC line frequency. The full wave rectification
in the power supply acts like a crude line frequency doubler.

--

Greetings,

Jerry Greenberg GLG Technologies GLG
==============================================
WebPage http://www.zoom-one.com
Electronics http://www.zoom-one.com/electron.htm
Instruments http://www.zoom-one.com/glgtech.htm
==============================================
<vze2jsc8@verizon.net> wrote in message
news:fbmbkv4n9dmtuq3qq34mhrsdqensitbit3@4ax.com...
Video output has the "traditional" pair of slowly scrolling up 120 Hz
hum bars.

I was thinking that all it probably needs is a new pair of main filter
caps in the power supply. If this is the case, I should be able to
find them without a schematic since they should be the biggest ones.

If anyone has other thoughts (or a schematic!) please let me know.

Thanks in advance
Tom
 
If it is more than the ram IC's that are defective, it will take some
very sophisticated test equipment, and very in debt knowledge of
servicing your set. Also, you will require the proper soldering tools
to simply change any of the parts. Usually when the fault requires
sophisticated work, it may be more feasible to change the complete
board.

This is not something you can fix at home. If you mess in it, you may
damage other parts, thus increasing the final cost of repairs.

--

Greetings,

Jerry Greenberg GLG Technologies GLG
==============================================
WebPage http://www.zoom-one.com
Electronics http://www.zoom-one.com/electron.htm
Instruments http://www.zoom-one.com/glgtech.htm
==============================================
"Jiri Kuukasjärvi" <Jiri.kuukasjarvi@XXpp.inet.fi> wrote in message
news:rbd1b.1544$Cf4.667@read3.inet.fi...
Hi!

I have this malfunctioning Onkyo TX-DS575 home theater amplifier.
There´s a problem with the DD processor board (quite large PCB,
connected to the display pcb)

As I connect signal to the amp, audio comes out ok. That´s if the
processor board isn´t connected. If it´s connected, audio volume is very
low even if I turn the master volume to the max. If I use the coaxial
inputs.. No sound at all.

The 3.3V regulator (NEC 29M33) seems to be ok.

I already called the local service that has parts for this model.
New board costs 74eur.

So, any ideas on what might be wrong on the board or elsewhere in the
amp? Do you have schematics for machine?

TIA!

- Jiri K.
 
You said: "The LCD was green". What LCD? Is this a flat panel monitor
or a CRT monitor?
Click to expand...
It's pretty clear that he typoed LCD for LED and was referring to the green
power LED of a CRT monitor.

-- uns
 
If the brightness is adjusted correctly for the line level input, the
coax input will be darker by a large amount. Is there a setting for this in
the serivce menu, how is it accessed on this model? The screen does not roll
at all. Thank you very much for all your help so far.

-glasnostJDC

"David" <dkuhajda@locl.net.spam> wrote in message
news:3f4452cb@news.greennet.net...
So please give more details. Which is brighter? Is one too bright or too
dark?
That set may have a limited service menu, early Zenith service menus did
have eeprom value settings for rf brightness and video brightness.

If the video input is low, you could have a weak capacitor in the video
path. Too weak and the picture will roll.

David

glasnostJDC <JDC@(NO SPAM)cnyconnect.net> wrote in message
news:fZU0b.2342$IY5.737@fe01.atl2.webusenet.com...
Oh for starters the modual number is 9-1118 and was made August 1991
the chassis I've read is the same as the model # for this series? I
tryed
to
find it any way but no such luck. My last major problem is brightness
differences between line level and coax inputs. Any suggestions? The
capacitor was the fix (C2212) for my posted problem. But for this
brightness difference problem I'm not sure, I've seen something posted
before but it was all dead ends. I've got a couple of work arounds but I
want to know if there is a knowen componant or componants that break
down
that cause that problem. Any help would be great and thanks to all agian
who
have helped this far.

-glasnostJDC

"David" <dkuhajda@locl.net> wrote in message
news:68f82f5b.0308201346.2b157db2@posting.google.com...
Has been addressed many times here. Do a Google groups search for
horizontal sawtooth and Zenith (possibly search by chassis or module
number). C2212 maybe? a 22uf on the 9v line to the jungle ic.

Of if it is really bright, the classic way the Zenith tubes short
internally.

A specific chassis number and year of manufacture will help a lot in
narrowing down other possibilities. Model numbers mean very little
for tv repair.

David

"glasnostJDC" <JDC@(NO SPAM)cnyconnect.net> wrote in message
news:<_nP0b.1247$IY5.588@fe01.atl2.webusenet.com>...
Hello, I have a Zenith Sentry 2 model sj2063s5 that I picked up for
free. I've repaired monitor's and TV's before but nothing so far
with
this
problem. If I leave the TV off for a day when I turn it on it shows
a
good
picture for about 30 seconds, then horizontal lines of distrotion
distort
the picture (look like this:
---___________
---___________
---___________
there distrotions of the image being put on screen) and any graghic
menus.
There is a high pitched noise from the unit, If I turn it right
back
on
the
picture still has distrotion. I did a light hit test for joints and
it
didn't affect it, I still have to go through and check joints (will
do
soon). If I'm right this is a problem in the verticle circuit of
this
TV?
Really all I'm woundering is a direction to go and any one who may
have
had
a similar problem with this unit. I've not found exactly this
problem
on
a
group search through google. Any help and information would be
great
and I
thank all who reply.
Click to expand...
 
If the brightness is adjusted correctly for the line level input, the
coax input will be darker by a large amount. Is there a setting for this in
the serivce menu, how is it accessed on this model? The screen does not roll
at all. Thank you very much for all your help so far.

-glasnostJDC

"David" <dkuhajda@locl.net.spam> wrote in message
news:3f4452cb@news.greennet.net...
So please give more details. Which is brighter? Is one too bright or too
dark?
That set may have a limited service menu, early Zenith service menus did
have eeprom value settings for rf brightness and video brightness.

If the video input is low, you could have a weak capacitor in the video
path. Too weak and the picture will roll.

David
Click to expand...
 
Jerry G. wrote:

If it is more than the ram IC's that are defective, it will take some
very sophisticated test equipment, and very in debt knowledge of
servicing your set. Also, you will require the proper soldering tools
to simply change any of the parts. Usually when the fault requires
sophisticated work, it may be more feasible to change the complete
board.

This is not something you can fix at home. If you mess in it, you may
damage other parts, thus increasing the final cost of repairs.
Click to expand...
Yes, I thought so too. Too many special components. I bet if one of them
was broken, and I somehow could have managed to find out, wich one.. No
chance to get a replacement. Replacing SMD components isn´t a problem.
But finding replacements.. :(

I got the service manual & schematics.. But didn´t need them after all.

Seems like it was only the solderings. I reflow the solderings of the
IC´s (Memory & others too) in the DD card with hot air (Danotherm SMD
soldering station) Now it works.. :)

Thanks, Mark & Jerry.

- Jiri K.
 
"Kota" <kotakelinci@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:2ce38383.0308221214.3331682f@posting.google.com...
I've got a Panasonic TX-21MD1C colour TV with a colour problem. The
colour image is stripy, totally wrong and impossible to watch.
When setting the colour system explicitly to PAL (which is the
national system here in Holland), the image is B/W.
When setting the colour system to SECAM, the image is exactly the same
as with the Auto setting.
The B/W picture is OK.
I tried to trace the problem. It seems that the VDP3108 video
processor is producing the error, as this is where the video signal
enters and RGB is put out (digital and analog). The VDP3108 does all
the processing digitally, including the color decoding.
I tried S-VHS, as this has a Luminance and Chrominance channel. It
produces the same effect. I replaced the caps at the 2 ref inputs of
the VDP3108, without any result.
I watched the video signal entering the VDP3108 on a scope. It looks
fine to me, including the colour burst.
The colouring of the on screen menus is ok though.
My guess is that the VDP3108 is defect. As this is a part of around 50
Euro, I'd like to be sure before replacing it. It seems strange to me
that a digital processor like this would not perform this specific
task, but all other tasks it should perform are OK.
Anybody have experience/can help?
Click to expand...
Its probably the VDP3108 , you need to buy the VDP3108 Kit if its the
old VDP3108 (obsolete) , the new one is VDP3108A PPA1.

The kit also contain Eprom , 2 Surface mounted capacitors.
Kit Art.Number TZS9EK0021

/ Per-Olof
 
"Wdyorchid" <wdyorchid@aol.com> wrote in message
news:20030822041804.10910.00000511@mb-m14.aol.com...
Take a look at this schematic. The green line is faulty line measuring 28V
which should be 1V. Assuming that replacing four transistors in these
general
areas would solve it, but it didn't. What can I be missing?

Details: Q111, Q109, Q129C, and Q129A replace same time. Measurements were
taken and still the same as before. (Thinking Q111, Q109 drives the output
transistors (Q129A, Q129C, replacing them would solve something) All the
transistors were checked with a diode tester but didn't paid attention to
comparing them before installing them. What is the correct way to test
them
with a diode checker? (I'd been using a logic pulser before but lost it.)
Receiver is a Dolby pro logic RX-V480.

http://autotails.tripod.com/zoom.htm
Click to expand...
For what it's worth, here's what I think. You stopped short of a good
diagnosis (maybe you should have stayed in school for a few more weeks,
huh?). Since you say that all the resistors in the area are good,
concentrate on the semiconductors for a minute and let's analyze your
(incomplete) measurements.
There is 28V on the bases of Q128 and Q129, and also on the emitters of Q109
and Q111, which under normal conditions are fairly well balanced. That
means the there is a serious imbalance in the circuit somewhere. If by
removing the positive power source (by removing R125), you restored the
balance, that means that the impalance must be due to bad component(s) in
the negative side.
Sticking my neck out, I'd bet that if you replaced Q105, you'd probably be
back in operation. It would appear that that transistor is Open C-E. That
would go far in explaining why the voltages around the circuit dropped back
to (near) normal when R125 is removed. Since the negative supply path is
open, then opening the positive supply should restore the balance. Ergo...
voltages seem normal, but they're really not, since the power sources have
been effectively removed.

Let us know how it turns out.
Cheers!!!!!
--
Tweetldee
Tweetldee at att dot net (Just subsitute the appropriate characters in the
address)

Time is what keeps everything from happening all at once.
 
"Randy Gross" <rgwg99@acsplus.com> wrote in message
news:01c368c2$5295d0c0$442525d8@dialup...
Please view in a fixed-width font such as Courier.

________________
| _____|_____
______ | | | R1 and R2 used as a
)|| __| | |
120vac )||(8vac R1 R2 test load to
)||(7 Turns 14 Ohms 21 Ohms
6A )||(__ | | determine output amps.
______)|| | | |
| |___________|
50 Turns |________________|


This schematic depicts a transformer under load for testing purposes. I
scoured the web in search of a high current dummy load, no luck! I came up
with the Idea of using 2 heating elements (R1 and R2) wired in parallel to
reduce the total load resistance.

The result was surprising. I expected a good deal of heat but, the
elements
didn't even warm. The drawback is, how do I use the resulting data to
determine the actual circuit amperage. These are the figures:

OCV: 8.1v
Total secondary load resistance: 8.5 ohms
Secondary current (clamp-on meter): 1.02 Amps
Primary current under load: 8.3 Amps

SOS

--

An Inquiring Mind
Randy Gross
----------------------------------------------------------
Click to expand...

Wow!!! Where did you get that transformer??? If the numbers on your
schematic are correct, then you're dissipating 996VA in the primary of the
transformer, while delivering only 8.7VA to the secondary!!!!! With 120V
across only 50 turns in the primary , you have a serious problem, and the
high primary current is telling you that. Not enough primary inductance!!!
Need more wire!!!!

You have answered your own question... Actual circuit amperage is:
Ip = 8.3A
Is = 1.02A

What do you really want to know?
Cheers!!!!
--
Tweetldee
Tweetldee at att dot net (Just subsitute the appropriate characters in the
address)

Time is what keeps everything from happening all at once.
 
"Uns Lider" <unslider-usenet@miranda.org> wrote in message
news:slrnbkcfpc.ft7.unslider-usenet@disorder.primate.net...
You said: "The LCD was green". What LCD? Is this a flat panel monitor
or a CRT monitor?

It's pretty clear that he typoed LCD for LED and was referring to the
green
power LED of a CRT monitor.

-- uns
Click to expand...

It wasn't pretty clear to several (pretty experienced) people here,
including me. LCD is a commonly used and recognized acornym/abbreviation in
the electronic world, and would seem to have validity in the context of the
original post.
If the OP really meant LED, then he/she should have corrected it. Now that
I have ranted about that, you're probably right... it probably should have
been LED instead of LCD.
Cheers!!!!
--
Tweetldee
Tweetldee at att dot net (Just subsitute the appropriate characters in the
address)

Time is what keeps everything from happening all at once.
 
An update: After another opening of the cabinet for the deck, I noticed a small
black knob in the back of the counter mechanism. Turning this makes the counter
move, so it probably is on the same shaft as the belt pulley. After turning the
counter manually from 000 to 102 or so, I then tried running a tape through the
machine to test the roll-over effect, and it has yet to recur, though I'm not
counting this problem as solved. Any ideas how to access and remove the belt in
question when replacement becomes necessary, and what might properly replace
it? Once again, TIA.
-Adam

Adam Vaughn
Collector of old computers, video game systems, radios and other electronic
equipment...
Visit my page at
http://www.angelfire.com/ma2/AdamVon/index.html
 
Thanks Jerry, that will be my plan.

Of course, the biggest hurdle will be getting around to it!

Thanks
Tom
 
Tweetldee <dgmason99@att99.net> wrote in article
<n%v1b.109515$3o3.7699220@bgtnsc05-news.ops.worldnet.att.net>...
: "Randy Gross" <rgwg99@acsplus.com> wrote in message
: news:01c368c2$5295d0c0$442525d8@dialup...
: > Please view in a fixed-width font such as Courier.
: >
: > ________________
: > | _____|_____
: > ______ | | | R1 and R2 used as a
: > )|| __| | |
: > 120vac )||(8vac R1 R2 test load to
: > )||(7 Turns 14 Ohms 21 Ohms
: > 6A )||(__ | | determine output
amps.
: > ______)|| | | |
: > | |___________|
: > 50 Turns |________________|
: >
: >
: > This schematic depicts a transformer under load for testing purposes. I
: > scoured the web in search of a high current dummy load, no luck! I came
up
: > with the Idea of using 2 heating elements (R1 and R2) wired in parallel
to
: > reduce the total load resistance.
: >
: > The result was surprising. I expected a good deal of heat but, the
: elements
: > didn't even warm. The drawback is, how do I use the resulting data to
: > determine the actual circuit amperage. These are the figures:
: >
: > OCV: 8.1v
: > Total secondary load resistance: 8.5 ohms
: > Secondary current (clamp-on meter): 1.02 Amps
: > Primary current under load: 8.3 Amps
: >
: > SOS
: >
: > --
: >
: > An Inquiring Mind
: > Randy Gross
: > ----------------------------------------------------------
:
:
: Wow!!! Where did you get that transformer??? If the numbers on your
: schematic are correct, then you're dissipating 996VA in the primary of
the
: transformer, while delivering only 8.7VA to the secondary!!!!! With
120V
: across only 50 turns in the primary , you have a serious problem, and the
: high primary current is telling you that. Not enough primary
inductance!!!
: Need more wire!!!!
:
: You have answered your own question... Actual circuit amperage is:
: Ip = 8.3A
: Is = 1.02A
:
: What do you really want to know?
: Cheers!!!!
: --
: Tweetldee
: Tweetldee at att dot net (Just subsitute the appropriate characters in
the
: address)
:
: Time is what keeps everything from happening all at once.
:
I apologize for the primary turns err, it should read 105 turns:-(
What I'm really after is this:

At 7 turns in the secondary, the amperage should be 90 Amps, 720VA. Now,
instead of running 90 Amps through something, I built this load. The load
test gave me 8v at 1 Amp from the 8.5 ohm load, 8VA. How do I convert this
test data to match the actual 720VA?


:Randy Gross
 
Jim Adney <jadney@vwtype3.org> wrote in article
<o8pdkvortnhm19r4as6sk81brkblftrbvv@4ax.com>...
: On Fri, 22 Aug 2003 04:16:16 +0000 (UTC) "Randy Gross"
: <rgwg99@acsplus.com> wrote:
:
: > Please view in a fixed-width font such as Courier.
: >
: > ________________
: > | _____|_____
: > ______ | | | R1 and R2 used as a
: > )|| __| | |
: > 120vac )||(8vac R1 R2 test load to
: > )||(7 Turns 14 Ohms 21 Ohms
: > 6A )||(__ | | determine output amps.
: > ______)|| | | |
: > | |___________|
: > 50 Turns |________________|
:
:
: >OCV: 8.1v
: >Total secondary load resistance: 8.5 ohms
: >Secondary current (clamp-on meter): 1.02 Amps
: >Primary current under load: 8.3 Amps

Those darn mistakes! 105 turns! One thing that I have learned today is
DON'T POST IN HASTE! Measure twice, cut once!

Randy Gross

:
: I wonder if this is a transformer that you made yourself, or if it is
: just one which was not made to run on a 120V input.
:
: I think if you measure the primary current with no load you'll find
: that it's still about 8.3A. Unless this is a HUGE iron core, 50 turns
: won't be nearly enough to keep the core from saturating with 120VAC
: across it.
:
: -
: -----------------------------------------------
: Jim Adney jadney@vwtype3.org
: Madison, WI 53711 USA
: -----------------------------------------------
:
 
can not you jokers make a circuit with MS paint and then convert it to put
a JPG or PNG up




"Randy Gross" <rgwg99@acsplus.com> wrote in message
news:01c368c2$5295d0c0$442525d8@dialup...
: Please view in a fixed-width font such as Courier.
:
: ________________
: | _____|_____
: ______ | | | R1 and R2 used as a
: )|| __| | |
: 120vac )||(8vac R1 R2 test load to
: )||(7 Turns 14 Ohms 21 Ohms
: 6A )||(__ | | determine output amps.
: ______)|| | | |
: | |___________|
: 50 Turns |________________|
:
:
: This schematic depicts a transformer under load for testing purposes. I
: scoured the web in search of a high current dummy load, no luck! I came up
: with the Idea of using 2 heating elements (R1 and R2) wired in parallel to
: reduce the total load resistance.
:
: The result was surprising. I expected a good deal of heat but, the
elements
: didn't even warm. The drawback is, how do I use the resulting data to
: determine the actual circuit amperage. These are the figures:
:
: OCV: 8.1v
: Total secondary load resistance: 8.5 ohms
: Secondary current (clamp-on meter): 1.02 Amps
: Primary current under load: 8.3 Amps
:
: SOS
:
: --
:
: An Inquiring Mind
: Randy Gross
: ----------------------------------------------------------
: <') >< Homebuilt Arc Welders >< ('>
: http://www.gomedia.ca/~aaawelder/
: Chance favors the prepared mind whose hands do the work!
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
 
Why ? looks ok here.

kip

--
"Watch the return E-Mail addy its false"
"Eric" <some1@clear.net.nz> wrote in message news:3f47c4f7$1@clear.net.nz...
can not you jokers make a circuit with MS paint and then convert it to
put
a JPG or PNG up




"Randy Gross" <rgwg99@acsplus.com> wrote in message
news:01c368c2$5295d0c0$442525d8@dialup...
: Please view in a fixed-width font such as Courier.
:
: ________________
: | _____|_____
: ______ | | | R1 and R2 used as a
: )|| __| | |
: 120vac )||(8vac R1 R2 test load to
: )||(7 Turns 14 Ohms 21 Ohms
: 6A )||(__ | | determine output amps.
: ______)|| | | |
: | |___________|
: 50 Turns |________________|
:
:
: This schematic depicts a transformer under load for testing purposes. I
: scoured the web in search of a high current dummy load, no luck! I came
up
: with the Idea of using 2 heating elements (R1 and R2) wired in parallel
to
: reduce the total load resistance.
:
: The result was surprising. I expected a good deal of heat but, the
elements
: didn't even warm. The drawback is, how do I use the resulting data to
: determine the actual circuit amperage. These are the figures:
:
: OCV: 8.1v
: Total secondary load resistance: 8.5 ohms
: Secondary current (clamp-on meter): 1.02 Amps
: Primary current under load: 8.3 Amps
:
: SOS
:
: --
:
: An Inquiring Mind
: Randy Gross
: ----------------------------------------------------------
: <') >< Homebuilt Arc Welders >< ('
: http://www.gomedia.ca/~aaawelder/
: Chance favors the prepared mind whose hands do the work!
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
Click to expand...
 
Could be a blob of crud on/in the CRT board or CRT socket; wouldn't take much;
if you haven't already, try swapping CRT boards from green to red or blue;
also, an arcing anode lead can cause this. Refresh my memory, what Chassis type
(PTV-XXX)?
 
I advise you take you T.V. to a repair shop where they can perform a proper
diagnosis, and in many shops, offer a free estimate.

Dan
"DukeN" <vince15@removediscogeco.ca> wrote in message
news:3F46CE0A.640931FE@removediscogeco.ca...
Hello.

I have an RCA f27665 (I believe thats the correct model number). The
picture is'nt appearing on it tho. The sound works fine, and I can see
the channel numbers and time and menus and such.

However the actual inputs dont work - cable, DVD, S-video,
componenent..nothing (same symptons - sound but no video).

Any ideas?

Thanks.
Click to expand...
 
I've completed tests on all resistors as suggested. I'd clip them and tested
them. Everything within the green line you saw in the schematic is now either
fully checked or replaced including R113 and C113. C113 doesn't seem short
since it measures about 4 Ohm across it and wasn't replaced. The only yet to
replace is Q105. This one (still in the circuit board) is hard to get and
checks out fine with a diode tester. I will replace it tomorrow. Only Q107 is
not an exact replacement part. Let's say I'd replace Q105 and still won't
work, should I look into the negative side for the problem. The (-) power
supply seems normal.

Both the left and right channels have the same offset. Even though replaced
most of the parts (5 out of 6 transistors) the readings still is as bad as
before.

Please let me tell you gentlemen how happy I am to receive so much amazing
help.
-Wd

***************************
I'd bet on Q107 and its surrounding parts, since they're responsible for
bias. Also check FR101 and all those low voltage resistors.
Ricardo
***************************
Are you saying on your webpage that both the left and right channels
have the same offset? If so I would look at the -44 v source for the
problem. If not Q105, Q107, and R113 would be prime suspects. Also,
Click to expand...
if you didn't use exact replacement parts, I would check the lead
orientation very carefully. This amp is designed to shutdown entirely
if there is any amp problems. It should shut down in 2 to 3 seconds.
Chuck
****************************
Just a quick look at the schematic.. I'd look at C113 the bootstrap,
possibly it has a partial short bleeding the b+ into the output.
Lubbie
Click to expand...
*****************************
For what it's worth, here's what I think. You stopped short of a good
diagnosis (maybe you should have stayed in school for a few more weeks,
huh?). Since you say that all the resistors in the area are good,
Click to expand...
concentrate on the semiconductors for a minute and let's analyze your
(incomplete) measurements.
There is 28V on the bases of Q128 and Q129, and also on the emitters of Q109
and Q111, which under normal conditions are fairly well balanced. That
means the there is a serious imbalance in the circuit somewhere. If by
removing the positive power source (by removing R125), you restored the
balance, that means that the imbalance must be due to bad component(s) in
the negative side.
Sticking my neck out, I'd bet that if you replaced Q105, you'd probably be
back in operation. It would appear that that transistor is Open C-E. That
would go far in explaining why the voltages around the circuit dropped back
to (near) normal when R125 is removed. Since the negative supply path is
open, then opening the positive supply should restore the balance. Ergo...
voltages seem normal, but they're really not, since the power sources have
been effectively removed.
Let us know how it turns out.
Cheers!!!!!-- TweetldeeTweetldee at att dot net (Just subsitute the
appropriate characters in the address)Time is what keeps everything from
happening all at once.
*********************
http://autotails.tripod.com/zoom.htm
 
Contacts are oxydiesed and current flowing thru them is decreased. This
triggers the safety warning light.
The soldering on the after market bulbs is very bad. Redo solderings ON
BULBS only with better one (prefer 2% cu included).

"Wdyorchid" <wdyorchid@aol.com> wrote in message
news:20030824075921.11748.00000461@mb-m11.aol.com...
My Honda seems to tell me that my bulbs are burnt out by constantly show a
warning light on the instrument gauges. Here's how the system works:
when the
brakes are applied the control unit detect bulb action and doesn't show a
warning light on the instrument gauges. If a bulb isn't detected then it
display a warning light.

The problem is that even though bulbs are okay, replacing with fresh bulbs
are
the only way to make the warning light go away. What is causing the
circuit to
trip? Here take a look at what I'm taking about in color diagram.
http://autotails.tripod.com/brakes.htm
Click to expand...
 
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