Toshiba TV29C90 problem; Image fades to black...

[Charles Schuler]

Wow, that's a new one! I'd say ignore it.

If I'm wrong, is the the beginning of the end of the Internet as we know it?

 

[JURB6006]

Makes
sense.

Makes more sense when you think about the divider chain after the osc., it's a
bunch of flip-flops, and when they are flipped in the state that has the HOT
turned on, but the osc. stops, the current ramps up until the field in the HDT
collapses.

This happens so fast you see nothing.

I had one come in and the OSD was shifted and there was no sound. This was
after replacing the HOT. The crystal was weak I guess and it didn't start on
time, which in a 169 will keep the data from being read out of the EPROM at the
proper time.

Symptom not quite fittting the cause ? How about a greyscale problem on an XBR
where the cure was to adjust the V hieght, or shutdown caused by an open (in
that case unplugged) subwoofer. One wonders what the future holds.

JURB

 

[doS]

Posting the person info like that aint cool, if he is a real lawyer........

"Blanca" <billy.menasco@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1105140165.132079.224080@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com...

Greetings

I posted the pictures yesterday on how to fix the Ford radio. Today I
get a email from a "lawyer" saying that he has a client the did the
repair and it burned up his car and apartment.

Right off I'm thinking that it is a hoax so I go to check the owner of
the domain that the message was sent from "bernstein-siler-law.com".

I then go check the owner of the domain that sells the info to fix your
radio and guess what, they are the SAME person.

See the letter here...
http://mysite.verizon.net/res046jx/id5.html
What a low life...

Billy Menasco

 

[Blanca]

I wonder if his hosing provider would consider his posting to these
groups to be grounds for Suspension or Termination?

TERMS OF SERVICE AND ACCEPTABLE USE POLICY
http://www.intelligenthosting.com/support/tosaup.htm

g. Posting commercial messages to a USENET group for the purposes of
promoting your website, where the posting is not approved by the
specific USENET group in its charter;


A quick search on Google shows several posts touting his services...
http://tinyurl.com/5ldy9 (google searh shortened)


Billy

 

[NSM]

"Blanca" <billy.menasco@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1105148712.147624.302040@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com...
|
| I wonder if his hosing provider would consider his posting to these
| groups to be grounds for Suspension or Termination?
|
| TERMS OF SERVICE AND ACCEPTABLE USE POLICY
| http://www.intelligenthosting.com/support/tosaup.htm
|
| g. Posting commercial messages to a USENET group for the purposes of
| promoting your website, where the posting is not approved by the
| specific USENET group in its charter;
|
|
| A quick search on Google shows several posts touting his services...
| http://tinyurl.com/5ldy9 (google searh shortened)
|
|
| Billy


Do it.

 

[Steve]

"slunk" <nospam@nospam.com> wrote in news:cridjg$abo$1@lust.ihug.co.nz:

just got a hometheatre speaker system for my dvd player.

playing movies with the 'surround sound' option doesn't include
vocals. usually the rest of the audio seems fine but the diologue is
either very faint or completely missing.

my 'music' dvds (as in concerts) are fine, just movies play without
voice.

all audio comes out if I play in normal mode.

any ideas?

everything is connected up right and the manuals offer nothing of any
insight

Have you checked whether the speakers are connected out of phase?

 

[E. Scrooge]

"Steve" <Steve@nononono.com> wrote in message
news:Xns95D89DE069729aacom@203.97.37.6...

"slunk" <nospam@nospam.com> wrote in news:cridjg$abo$1@lust.ihug.co.nz:

just got a hometheatre speaker system for my dvd player.

playing movies with the 'surround sound' option doesn't include
vocals. usually the rest of the audio seems fine but the diologue is
either very faint or completely missing.

my 'music' dvds (as in concerts) are fine, just movies play without
voice.

all audio comes out if I play in normal mode.

any ideas?

everything is connected up right and the manuals offer nothing of any
insight




Have you checked whether the speakers are connected out of phase?

One can lose the speech from a movie if the sound settings on the DVD player
aren't right.

E. Scrooge

 

[William R. Walsh]

Hi!

Units exposed to water can have all sorts of weird problems occur,
especially in electromechanical devices like cd players where there are
very fine tolerances.

You don't say. I recently had a major sewer failure cause a backup of
water into my basement. Nearly none of the CD-ROM or DVD-ROM drives that
went under remain functional. It seems that the oldest drives took it a lot
better (and held up to being cleaned in a much better way) than did any of
the new ones. The drives run and "try to work" but I think that things
inside the laser pickup got dirty when the water came along. I don't really
know how to take laser pickups apart, if it can even be done. (And I have no
desire to accidentally fry my eyes if the pickup were not to be quite
correctly put back together.)

Impurities deposited by the water , grit etc. can
find their way into connectors, transformers , and almost all other
places. If the unit is left as-is, corrosion and other problems can set
in.

This player was just set out in the trash, along with some computer monitors
and a VCR. All of them were rained on, but the CD player and VCR were still
mostly dry inside. The only places I found water in either one was around
the openings on the case.

Needless to say I mopped it all up and used gentle heat to encourage drying
of components. It didn't look like any transformers had taken a "hit".

Faults can take time to appear, even when the player has been dry for
considerable time.

Perhaps so. I haven't seen that effect myself--it has been my experience
that if the device is cleaned up and dried out promptly that its chances of
surviving are really pretty good. As it stands now I have played nearly my
entire CD collection in this thing multiple times and it remains rock solid.
I am going to hope for now that the connections had simply become marginal
(this player is not exactly new) and that my reinserting them cleaned them
enough to allow proper operations. If the player breaks again--I'll fix it
if it is feasible to do so.

I really think that the issue could have been one with a grounding contact.
I have heard of electronics acting strangely when the grounds are not
working for some reason.

I have found that dismantling the device totally (as
soon as you get it away from the damp before rust sets in!), drying,
re-lubing, checking all areas for deposits and cleaning can minimize
the risk of problems.

Indeed. I am very reluctant to grease or lubricate anything unless the
material is clearly contaminated or I'm dealing with a fan. (Fans of all
sorts, it would seem, act rather badly after they have been wet.) What
lubricating material I can see in this player looks to be good, well
distributed and not at all dirty.

Given that it was picked up from a "high income" part of town and the fact
that it is in nice condition, I'd say it lived a very nice and calm life
until its owner found that it would no longer play CDs properly. Then out
the door it went. Happens more often in that part of town than I'd care to
talk about it. I've gotten a lot of really nice stuff just by waiting for
trash day and then picking up whatever I find interesting. TV
sets...Microwaves...whole computer systems (including some very modern
ones)...misc stuff...

I think that fully 90% of what I pick up could be resold for profit, but
I've never done it that. What I can't use I give to others who need it more
than I do. I find this kind of thing to be fun...and I think in my own
little way that I'm saving the world from one more piece of equipment flying
into an already overburdened landfill.

As you have found, reseating connectors is at
least a good place to start!

It should have been the first thing that I did, but it was the last thing I
expected given that it looked like the player had been well cared for and
everything inside seemed to be in place. I think a lot of us could say that
in regards to some things we have repaired!

William

 

Simon Richardson <simon.richardson@harrierzeuros.co.uk> wrote:

MY VCR is playing up ! Its been working fine for years (this model was
made in 1991 !) what happens is that when a tape is inserted the
machine does one of three things.
1. plays the tape, but only displays maybe 1-2 seconds of film on the
TV, (with no sound) and then returns to the blue screen. It then might
stop playing, but then won't do anything else, only let me eject the
tape or switch the unit off.
2. plays the tape, but the counter won't advance past 00 00000, the
tape is being spooled, but again, only a second or so of film, and
then blue screen.
3. tape will play, (as before) but won't rewind or fast forward at the
correct speed, just very slowly.

You might want to check the P5 lever, this is a spring loaded lever that
pulls the tape toward the audio/sync heads on the RHS of the cassette.
It should snap back into place when you try to move it by hand. If it is
very heavy to move, the grease is dried out. In that case you need to
take it off, clean it with alcohol and apply some new grease.

---
Met vriendelijke groet,

Maarten Bakker.

 

[LASERandDVDfan]

The fact that you have an SL-2500 which did the same thing is somewhat
reassuring. At least it suggests that this might be a well known
problem (at least to someone) and that there might be a known cause
and solution out there.

The SL-2000, SL-2500, and SL-2700 essentially share the same platform, although
the SL-2000 is a portable top loader while the other two are relatively high
end front loaders, particularly the Hi-Fi SL-2700.

They all use a dual motor drive for the spools as opposed to a single motor
pendulum configuration.

Not many models used this configuration because of the expense.

Forgive me, but I don't understand how extra friction in the upper
head drum could cause this symptom. [Doesn't the upper part spin? I
thought the lower part was stationary....]

Both parts of the drum do not rotate. Only the inner head disc rotates. But,
grime buildup on the drum surfaces can cause excessive drag, which may cause
problems with the tape travel.

Another thing you can do is to check the condition of the threading mechanism
drive belt, which should be to the upper right of the drum. If the belt is
worn, replace it and see what happens.

Also check the condition of any and all braking materials on the spool drivers.

The problem with this is that these are not just simple DC motors;
they are brushless (stepper?) motors, so I think it will take some
careful scope measurements to compare their inputs.

They are servo controlled brushless motors with servo feedback provided by a
magnetic sensor. - Reinhart

 

[Dave Miller]

"davexnet02" <davexnetzerotwo@hooya!.com> wrote in message
news:8e5dj0pecgl3pj0svir7fvjelinl6n79vk@4ax.com...

On Wed, 01 Sep 2004 02:21:44 GMT, davexnet02
davexnetzerotwo@hooya!.com> wrote:

On Wed, 01 Sep 2004 01:08:23 GMT, "Jim Beaver"
jumblejim@prodigy.spam> wrote:



Following up on this last post of mine: I finally got the thing turned
around enough to see the label. It's a KV32XBR36 -- manufactured in
Nov.
1993.

Does this date or model change anybody's mind about whether it's worth
paying to fix it? If it's really 11 years old, isn't it likely to blow
something else pretty soon anyway?

Jim Beaver

Hi Jim, mine's a year older than yours and the 27 inch version -
kv27xbr35. I consider the TV worth fixing or at least gettng
a professional diagnosis. Prior to the problem, the TV had
excellent picture and sound.
I've got a service guy coming tomorrow. I should have an update
in the evening.
Dave
According to the service guy who came today, he believes the
problem is due to the main IC on the "U" board, which he says
from experience needs to be replaced.
This IC is about 2 inches by 1 inch. The U board,
according to my service manual is the comb filter.
He took the chassis with him, and if it goes to plan,
he'll be back with it on Saturday.
I paid him $45 for the home service and
diagnosis, plus he wants $220 to fix it.

Dave

Hello All --

I have a Sony KV32XBR48 that has similar symptoms. I am very interested to
know if the repair worked.

Thanks

Dave M

 

[DMF]

"hupjack" wrote...

I absolutely agree with the "safety first" standpoint of fix it before it
causes me havoc, and I didn't have much hope that my description
of a "faint hiss" would give ya'all THAT much to work with.

Definitely what I'm experiencing IS a hiss rather than a whine.
Nothing high pitched about it.. No squeak.. More like a faint
rustling.... ssssssssssssssssssssssss

You've got me stumped. I've never heard a peep out of a power
supply when the PC was off except when they are failing due to
bad caps. Perhaps you can email the manufacturer and see if the
noise is normal. Also, how old are your ears? I know that we
lose the ability to hear high pitch as we age, so maybe it is a high
pitch but all you hear is rustling... just a thought. I've serviced PCs
that had power supplies that were squealling so loud you could
hear it across the room -- but the client (around 70 y.o.) didn't
hear a thing even when he put his ear right next to the computer.

BTW, how old is this power supply?

Good luck!

Regards,
David

 

[Amolao]

Yes this is a factory diode, goes in the back of the gauge cluster use on the nissan 240SX models. There is only 4 diodes and a resistor on the back of the cluster. The diodes control the illumination path on the car and cluster lights. I have the factory nissan manual and it does not show any identification for electronic components on the schematics. Just the basic name,i.e. relay, diode,etc
The diagram uses the symbol for a standard diode, not a zener....
The reason I replaced it (I have another cluster I use for parts....and used those diodes..) Is because my driving lights will stay on constantly....even with the light switch off......traced it to the cluster and found two diodes that were shorted, I replaced them and problem solved....but will like to find a replacement for new ones so I can have spares....

 

[majortom]

Your receiver wouldn't be an Echostar SRD-5000 by any chance would
it???

If so, they are prone to having bad Caps in the Power Supply Assembly,
commonly called a Model 90S Power Supply. The symptom is usually
a little more catastrophic, but could just as easily be causing your
problem.
I've got one of those laying around collecting dust that has a bad
Microprocessor board...
but the power supply was confirmed OK in another unit. In any event,
I'm pretty sure they
used that same design power supply in other Echostar models as well.

Easiest way to check is look for signs of AC Ripple with a DMM on ALL
of the DC voltage Sources
leaving the Power Supply. I have taken that module out of the chassis
before, and simply
replaced every Cap on the output side of the switcher, as when one goes
bad, the rest are well on their
way as well. Analog C-Band Satellite Receivers generate a lot of heat,
and normally don't vent very well
buried in people's TV cabinets & such, so it's very common for the
Filter Caps to dry up inside over the years.
The sudden nature of your problem (e.g. worked until 6 mos ago) leads
me to believe that might be what ur up
against now that I think of it

So

A.) Read that link
B.) Swap Receivers if possible.
C.) Check your cables.
D.) Check your Power Supply.

Bill

 

[Sam Goldwasser]

"majortom" <majortom_majortom@yahoo.com> writes:

Don't have any past experience with yours, but could be caused by the
Servo Output IC. Chase the cables that lead from the drive to the main
board, I'm sure the Servo IC will stick out like a sore thumb from
there. Also check in that vicinity for signs of resistors that may have
changed color, most likely not obvious with the naked eye, best to
check them for tolerance. They should be resistors in the circuit
between the IC and the motor itself.

More likely cause is that the spindle motor is partially shorted. See:

http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/sam/cdfaq.htm#cdpwspmm

--- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ Mirror: http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/
Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/REPAIR/
+Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ: http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/sam/lasersam.htm
| Mirror Sites: http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/REPAIR/F_mirror.html

Note: These links are hopefully temporary until we can sort out the excessive
traffic on Repairfaq.org.

Important: Anything sent to the email address in the message header above is
ignored unless my full name is included in the subject line. Or, you can
contact me via the Feedback Form in the FAQs.

 

[Bradley1234]

I dont have another receiver but the customer is going to find/borrow one
this week

My former boss I havent seen in 15years, he worked in radar systems setup
and maintenance in the military for ? years then had 2 successful satellite
shops in the 80s. I worked close with him, when he said a dish had some
problem or diagnosed something, I recall in about 10 years he was right
about 100% of the time. So I know that he was very good and customers knew
it.

But we went different ways because the markets just changed, people used to
pay $ to fix tvs and stuff, then they went to the small dish, which didnt
move and seemed to work well. tvs and vcrs are disposable, you cant charge
$200 to fix stuff these days that costs $89 at Circuit City to buy new

Back in the day, my former boss would have all kinds of extra receivers but
when you sell the shops and have to get rid of inventory?

I like the older C band systems but have direct tv, if people can afford it?
its easy and the pix is great

I mean the ABC that comes in on G5, the dish will not move, I only need to
position it on ONE satellite. Other satellites may have worked better but
still had some static.

Right, the dish is not damaged, its been in one location for many years, its
tight and the inclination bolt clearly hasnt been moved in years; the feed
is clean, there are no trees, no phone poles, nothing in the sky its a clear
shot to where its pointed

Thats a great website thanks. Nobody seems to know what reflects microwave
noise. If Verizon installed a microwave repeater 6 months ago? I want to
build something to block the microwaves

so I figured a 4x8 CDX, coated with aluminum foil on one side, then sheet
metal, will work. Im going to try this after we try another receiver and
bypass the cables

If the power supply was vershtunken? Well I havent measured the voltage to
the LNB I dont get many calls for C band anymore. But some channels are
clear with a sharp pix. espn is clear but with lots of white it makes
noise. Is there a word for that? I dont think its white noise its like
the video bleeds over into the audio band when the video is peaking


"majortom" <majortom_majortom@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1104896419.975954.296270@c13g2000cwb.googlegroups.com...

Hmmm, Do you have or can you borrow another Known Good Receiver???
That might eliminate a possible receiver problem. Ur buddy while as
experienced as he may
be, probably is just brushing ya off to go digital. If he's as
experienced as ya say he outta
have something lying around you could try. If not he may not be as
experienced as ya think???.

When you say the ABC channels, are you referring to the "in the clear'
ABC feeds
on T6 (AKA Intel Americas 6)?? Or the Subcription ABC Networks from
Denver on F1 or
WKRN on AMC3?? I too have an antenna that's almost as old as I, but it
does fairly well
on G5. My main problems are due to obstructions, although some of what
I said before
applies to me as well.

I have noticed the WSEE signal on AMC3 (W3) which is rather high in the
sky for me and free
from obstructions has gotten very crummy lately. While the rest of that
same sat is fine. That's why
I mentioned that digital signals on adjacent satellites can cause
interference when usiing older mesh
antennas that just don't have the tight & narrow beamwidth of modern
antennas.

You may have the lowest noise temperature LNB available, and it won't
do you any good whatsoevr if
the antenna has a crummy noise figure itself, or is otherwise "out of
shape in any way". Look for dents in
the mesh, signs of the dish being warperd out of round, etc...check the
alignment of the feed for
correct focus, etc...

The following is a good link, has some notes on checking for those
sorts of defects..

http://www.geo-orbit.org/sizepgs/tuningp2.html#anchor469886

Hope it helps...If nothing else you'll learn something reading it.

 

[sofie]

majortom:
NO, electrolytics are NOT "easiest to test"..... in circuitry like the
vertical deflection and SMPS; you must test with an ESR meter..... all
other methods do not give you important ESR information that is vital to
proper operation.
If you do not have an ESR meter then just replace all of the electrolytics
near and around the vertical deflection output circuitry, there are only
about a half dozen, fairly cheap to do.
With your JVC television you should pay special attention to c424 and c425
and any other 4xx series electrolytics.
Again, without an ESR meter do not waste your time trying to test, just
replace them.
--
Best Regards,
Daniel Sofie
Electronics Supply & Repair
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -


"majortom" <majortom_majortom@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1104893579.329218.94600@c13g2000cwb.googlegroups.com...

Thanks for the quick reply Jerry, I'll go there first.
Will let ya know how I make out. Makes sense, as
complete Vert Output Circuit Failure usually results in a catostrophic
failure, as in completely collapsed.

I'm not looking at the set at the moment, but are ya talkin
Electrolytics
as a common defective cap or what?? Those are easiest to test with
my limited test equipment. Most likely to leave a factory as "walking
wounded"
too I would think.

Bill

 

[Chaos Master]

[comp.sys.ibm.pc.hardware,sci.electronics removed. Not carried by
news.individual.net]

[Followup-To set to s.e.components]

mc stated:

This may be perfectly normal. Recall that the PSU outputs 5 volts even when
"off" so that the computer's wake-up functions can work. That means it's
still rectifying the incoming AC, chopping it at an ultrasonic frequency,
and running it through a transformer. I've always believed -- without a lot
of proof -- that ultrasonic transformer whine can sound like a hiss, because
the vibration has irregular components that are audible.

AFAIK, the hissing sound when on is from the magnetics of the SMPS or
other transformers - they operate at high frequencies.

But when off? Maybe by "off" you mean "stand-by" mode?

My PC uses an AT power supply so the power switch is "hard" - it kills
power to the PSU.

And anyway, I switch everything off using the 'line filter'.


--
Chaos MasterŽ, posting from Canoas, Brazil - 29.55° S / 51.11° W

"People told me I can't dress like a fairy.
I say, I'm in a rock band and I can do what the hell I want!"
-- Amy Lee

 

[Kevin D]

Hmmm...I wonder if Duane isn't being impersonated by someone else. I've
communicated with Duane via email when I was looking for a volume control
for my Explorer's radio. He told me exactly where to find it, and didn't
ask for any compensation. I chose to send him $20 anyway, and when I did,
he gave me full access to his website. He's an electrical engineer like me,
and he's currently unemployed, so I gave him some tips that I used when I
was in the same boat a decade ago. He seemed quite pleasant.

The Internet is the perfect place for chameleons and impostors. It would
not surprise me in the least if someone was chapped at paying Duane for his
knowledge, and then to "get even", is doing this. Have you emailed Duane to
ask him if that letter was really from him? He's smart enough to know about
the whois utility, and would be very clumsy indeed to do this. I'd give him
the benefit of the doubt, and ask him (a) did this come from him, and (b) if
so, why.




"doS" <kobo65@hotLEGSmail.com> wrote in message
newsrIDd.691$5K.640@fe06.lga...

You are out for blood aren't you.

"Blanca" <billy.menasco@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1105148712.147624.302040@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com...

I wonder if his hosing provider would consider his posting to these
groups to be grounds for Suspension or Termination?

TERMS OF SERVICE AND ACCEPTABLE USE POLICY
http://www.intelligenthosting.com/support/tosaup.htm

g. Posting commercial messages to a USENET group for the purposes of
promoting your website, where the posting is not approved by the
specific USENET group in its charter;


A quick search on Google shows several posts touting his services...
http://tinyurl.com/5ldy9 (google searh shortened)


Billy

 

[Mark D. Zacharias]

"E. Scrooge" <scrooge@*shot.co.nz (*sling)> wrote in message
news:1105153892.158416@ftpsrv1...

"Steve" <Steve@nononono.com> wrote in message
news:Xns95D89DE069729aacom@203.97.37.6...
"slunk" <nospam@nospam.com> wrote in news:cridjg$abo$1@lust.ihug.co.nz:

just got a hometheatre speaker system for my dvd player.

playing movies with the 'surround sound' option doesn't include
vocals. usually the rest of the audio seems fine but the diologue is
either very faint or completely missing.

my 'music' dvds (as in concerts) are fine, just movies play without
voice.

all audio comes out if I play in normal mode.

any ideas?

everything is connected up right and the manuals offer nothing of any
insight




Have you checked whether the speakers are connected out of phase?

One can lose the speech from a movie if the sound settings on the DVD
player
aren't right.

E. Scrooge

Or if there's no center speaker hooked up.

Mark Z.