Toshiba TV29C90 problem; Image fades to black...

[tanya]

thanks very much again!
[...below...]

Sofie wrote:

Tanya:
read my responses below:

lots of snipetts:
Tanya wrote the following:
well it was worse when when the engine was hot after driving it... but i
guess
what i am worried about is the fact that the load test after returning
went down
to 13.1 (everything that was on (aside from the interior lights) could
reasonably be on at the same time.)
i'd just thought that the alternator was supposed to keep the battery at
14.x...

If you are measuring the full load voltage when the engine is just at
idle..... while looking at your meter, step lightly on the accellerator
pedal and increase the engine speed..... I would bet that the "low" voltage
reading that you are concerned about will kick up into a more normal
reading.

i guess i could do that with the throttle under the hood? i know where that is
and it revs the engine!

i have an analog voltmeter and i'll try that too...

Forget the analog meter..... a waste of time no matter how good it is.....
trying to measure the small 0.1 volt increments we are concerned about with
automotive batteries and charging systems is best done with the digital...
I love analog meters and acturally prefer them for general troubleshooting
but this task requires the digital meter.

The idle
speed may also be a tad low causing an excessively low charge rate at
idle.
i have to get the technical manual for the car and change the idle...

YES... YES... increase the idle

i will when i get the manual next week (actually it idles at 500 rpm)

--
Best Regards,
Daniel Sofie
Electronics Supply & Repair

again, thank you!
sincerely
Tanya

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[tanya]

tanya wrote:

X-posted
hello,
14 yOld 1.6L automatic

[...]

<SNIPPED>
Just wanted to thank everyone for their help, information, expertise,
patience etc!
REALLY appreciate it
sincerely
Tanya



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[tanya]

Jeff wrote:

"tanya" <seeAddress@bot.tom> wrote in message
news:3F310D7E.594D00E6@bot.tom...
it is a mitsubishi / dodge / chrysler colt 200
thanks very much again!
sincerely
Tanya


The 89 mitsubishi made ECMs do have a known
capacitor problem.
Jeff

i did not know that... i wonder whether they did anything about it -- or
will?
THANKS!
sincerely
Tanya


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[Gordon Burditt]

Gary Woods <gwoods@spamfree.albany.net> writes:

[ "black, white and red OSHA-style warning sticker" ]

Shouldn't that have been red, black, and red?

This is the color code for a 2,000-ohm resistor.

Excuse me? Is this an in-joke that's popular among
the taped-up-glasses-and-pocket-protector set, or
perhaps a pun?

It's not exactly an in-joke, but facts that geeks are more likely
to know than others, like knowing pi to 50 decimal places.

Gordon L. Burditt

 

[saeengineer]

On Wed, 06 Aug 2003 20:07:55 -0400, tanya <seeAddress@bot.tom> wrote:

<snip>

The idle
speed may also be a tad low causing an excessively low charge rate at
idle.
i have to get the technical manual for the car and change the idle...

YES... YES... increase the idle

i will when i get the manual next week (actually it idles at 500 rpm)

I have said it before in this group, but it is a good idea to do a
through throttle body and IAC cleaning particularity with idle problems
(and when tune up items have been replaced with no effect on the
problem).

The Idle Speed Control adjustment on this model must be done with a
Throttle Position Sensor check.

I would strongly suggest replacing the fuel filter. Not only can a
plugged fuel filter cause rough running and low power output, it also
puts additional strain on the fuel pump. The worst thing that could
happen is the fuel lines get mangled during removal and the fuel lines
would have to be replaced also.

After these items are completed, I would check the fuel pressure and
pull trouble codes. No code reader is required for this vehicle, only
an analog voltmeter (or a digital one with an analog/bar graph display).
If you need instructions for this post back.

Unfortunately, this vehicle (like so many of it's japanese brothers) has
very little information available in regards to trouble codes. There
are only seven codes available and the descriptions are for lack of a
better word *broad*. Still worth checking though.

HTH

 

[Don]

I found this on the web- I think this is more important than dvd danger.

"Coalition to Ban Dihydrogen Monoxide
BAN DIHYDROGEN MONOXIDE: THE INVISIBLE KILLER
Dihydrogen monoxide is colourless, odourless, tasteless, and kills uncounted
thousands of people every year. Most of these deaths are caused by
accidental inhalation of DHMO, but the dangers of dihydrogenmonoxide do not
end there. Prolonged exposure to its solid form causes severe tissue
damage. Symptoms of DHMO ingestion can include excessive sweating and
urination, and possibly a bloated feeling, nausea, vomiting and body
electrolyte imbalance. For those who have become dependent, DHMO withdrawal
means certain death.
Dihydrogen monoxide is also known as hydric acid, and is the major component
of acid rain. It:
* contributes to the 'greenhouse effect.'
* may cause severe burns.
* contributes to the erosion of our natural landscape.
* accelerates corrosion and rusting of many metals.
* may cause electrical failures and decreased effectiveness of automobile
brakes.
* has been found in excised tumours of terminal cancer patients.
CONTAMINATION IS REACHING EPIDEMIC PROPORTIONS!
Quantities of dihydrogen monoxide have been found in almost every stream,
lake, and reservoir in America today. But the pollution is global, and the
contaminant has even been found in Antarctic ice. In the midwest alone DHMO
has caused millions of dollars of property damage.
Despite the danger, dihydrogen monoxide is often used:
* as an industrial solvent and coolant.
* in nuclear power plants.
* in the production of styrofoam.
* as a fire retardant.
* in many forms of cruel animal research.
* in the distribution of pesticides.
* as an additive in certain 'junk-foods' and other food products.
Even after washing, produce remains contaminated by this chemical.
Companies dump waste DHMO into rivers and the ocean, and nothing can be done
to stop them because this practice is still legal. The impact on wildlife
is extreme, and we cannot afford to ignore it any longer!
THE HORROR MUST BE STOPPED!
The American government has refused to ban the production, distribution, or
use of this damaging chemical due to its 'importance to the economic health
of this nation.' In fact, the navy and other military organisations are
conducting experiments with DHMO, and designing multi-billion dollar devices
to control and utilise it during warfare situations. Hundreds of military
research facilities receive tons of it through a highly sophisticated
underground distribution network. Many store large quantities for later
use."

 

[Henry Mydlarz]

"CJT" <cheljuba@prodigy.net> wrote in message
news:3F2FDE25.4050401@prodigy.net...

physics-teacher@rooseveltHS.edu wrote:


Being a physics teacher, let me explain something.

A laser can go through the smallest hole, and if the disk is rotating
inside, the laser beams can be reflected at millions of different
angles, and many thousand times per second. Thus the laser beams
could spew out of that crack like bullets coming out of a machine gun.
Anyone in the path of these beams are instantly history. So, yes it
can kill a whole family and even a whole stadium full of people in
seconds. Lasers are dangerous and if one gets out of control, like
apparently this one did, there is no telling who or what will be
killed or destroyed.


That explains all the dead bodies I see in supermarkets here - it's the

damned laser bar code scanners!

Henry

 

[Steve Hanson]

physics-teacher@rooseveltHS.edu wrote in
<fl7viv4j2mf9lu0eh3sbnqbgbq8gbcn7g8@4ax.com>:

On Tue, 05 Aug 2003 11:27:08 GMT, Impmon <Impmon@tds.net> wrote:

On Mon, 04 Aug 2003 13:12:13 -0500, americanfamilyagent207@livewire.com
typed:

player became cracked during the fall to the floor, emitting the fatal
radiation which killed the entire family of seven.
[snip]

I'm having a hard time with that. Granted the laser inside the DVD
player is harmful but unless you looked directly at the laster, you
won't be harmed by a cracked case. I've had the case off of my DVD
player for a few days when I was trying to get the spindle working and
I'm doing fine.

There is no way the radiation from the player can killthe whole family.

Being a physics teacher, let me explain something.

A laser can go through the smallest hole, and if the disk is rotating
inside, the laser beams can be reflected at millions of different
angles, and many thousand times per second. Thus the laser beams
could spew out of that crack like bullets coming out of a machine gun.
Anyone in the path of these beams are instantly history. So, yes it
can kill a whole family and even a whole stadium full of people in
seconds. Lasers are dangerous and if one gets out of control, like
apparently this one did, there is no telling who or what will be
killed or destroyed.

It's no secret that the Taliban are planning on dropping a bunch of
Goldstar DVD players from high altitude on our cities. Armeggedon!
We'll all be vaporized!

 

[CJT]

Steve Hanson wrote:

vze34x8m@incoming.verizon.net wrote in
3F317A22.B4119D73@incoming.verizon.net>:



Not so quick wrote:


Have you ever heard a news story
where only the state and not the city
was reported? I thought this was going
to be a joke. It's not funny and I'm sad
that many people will believe it if it gets
distributed.


A fairly big tip-off that this is a joke is the bad grammar -- a real
newspaper writer would know to say "lying" instead of "laying" --- twice !


Other than that it was perfectly believable.

.... except for being ludicrous, maybe.

 

[Michael A. Terrell]

Gary Woods wrote:

I gotta go....
--
Gary Woods

Third door on the right.

--


Its August 5, 2003, so I'm 51 today!
Michael A. Terrell
Central Florida

 

[CJT]

bewtifulfreak wrote:

"CJT" <cheljuba@prodigy.net> wrote in message
news:3F31E843.6030408@prodigy.net...

Steve Hanson wrote:


A fairly big tip-off that this is a joke is the bad grammar -- a real
newspaper writer would know to say "lying" instead of "laying" ---

twice !


Other than that it was perfectly believable.

... except for being ludicrous, maybe.


Er....I think he was being sarcastic (or at least facetious)....

Doh!

 

[sPoNiX]

On Thu, 7 Aug 2003 19:20:34 +1000, "ThomasNews"
<thomasnews@iprimus.com.au> wrote:

Hi All,

We are in the market for a new front loader washing machine.

Is there any particular brand that is longer lasting and reliable than
others?

Depends on your budget...

I have an Ariston washer/Dryer and it has only broken once in 7 years

sPoNiX

 

[Len]

Tanya,
Check your motor mounts. Had the same indications on my Jeep Grand cherokee
and one of my mounts was broken causing the vibration.
Len


tanya <seeAddress@bot.tom> wrote in news:3F2FF464.21FE186C@bot.tom:

X-posted
hello,
14 yOld 1.6L automatic
problems: when in gear (any) and NOT giving it gas (whether or not the
brake is on), it vibrates and sounds like it could stall (idle is just ~
1*10^3 or a bit less) this stops when one hits the gas petal.
does NOT occur in park or neutral.
also with radio, lights, etc. the vibrating INCREASES (when stopped)
i did <i think> a sortOf load test (testing voltage across the battery)
and p.t. starting, voltage was 12.5 (cold engine) right when started, it
went to 14.3 (+lights, +radio, + interior light, + ventilation = = 14.3
but with wipers ALSO went 14.2 (i guess that's no big deal) (with all
off except for the car it went to 14.2)
HOWEVER, after driving (highWay etc.) repeated:
while running (in park) voltage was 13.9 (with nothing else on -- i
hadn't turned off the car after driving it)
+ lights, + radio, +int lights, = = 13.9 BUT with ventilation: kept
going back and forth from 13.1 -- 13.7 (would not read a steady number
i.e. it fluctuated) then adding windShieldWipers went to 13.0
with all off (except for the car) back to 13.9
is there any way to tell if this is a dying alternator? or if the alt
belt is cracked from the above readings?
the battery is supposed to be *new*
(alternator light does NOT come on but is the light always accurate?)
finally could someOne suggest where i could learn about the voltage
regulator? (if this item would even be involved) that's not too
technical?
or if there could be another factor in the *differential diagnosis*?
thanks in advance!


--
to reply:
userName: tjtmd
domain: attglobal.net
and separate the 2 words with the at sign

 

[Sofie]

Lionel:
You cannot "fix" or "tweak" a weak CRT. In it's previous life, it was
probably left on 24/7 ..... this is most likely why you were able to pick
it up for "cheap" at a market.
A CRT rejuvenator like a B&amp;K or Sencor MIGHT be able to eek some more life
and brightness out of it.

Best Regards,
Daniel Sofie
Electronics Supply &amp; Repair
------------------------------------



snipped:
"Lionel" &lt;nop@alt.net&gt; wrote in message

I just picked up one of these beautiful 21" monitors cheap at a market.
Except for this brightness problem, it works perfectly. I'm driving it

Turning up all the on-screen bias &amp; gain controls to the
maximum values produces a usable, but still darkish image. I was
assuming that as the monitor is about 4 years old, it'd probably just
need a cleanup, &amp; for me to tweak up the EHT, but having obtained a
schematic, I now know that there are *no* internal adjustments at all! I
Any tips or ideas?

 

[Lionel]

On Thu, 7 Aug 2003 07:17:14 -0700, in
&lt;vj4nt635sjni52@corp.supernews.com&gt;, "Sofie" &lt;sofie@olypen.com&gt; said:

Lionel:
You cannot "fix" or "tweak" a weak CRT. In it's previous life, it was
probably left on 24/7 ..... this is most likely why you were able to pick
it up for "cheap" at a market.
A CRT rejuvenator like a B&amp;K or Sencor MIGHT be able to eek some more life
and brightness out of it.

Any time I've looked at monitors with worn out CRTs, they've usually had
weak contrast, &amp; a general 'murky' look. This one has a razor sharp,
very clean image, apart from the lack in brightness. (It was running
when I bought it, &amp; I wouldn't have bothered if it'd had a bad looking
image.)

It's worth mentioning that this beast has a digital diags port that's
accessible via a hatch on the rear cover, &amp; that the service guide says
you're supposed to use some sort of proprietory device to do the initial
convergence (etc) setup on it. My guess is that you need it to access
all the adjustments that are normally done with trimmers, etc.

 

[Bob Shuman]

Tanya,

Based on the updated information (that the vehicle was recently tuned) that
you provided, I am inclined to agree with saeengineer that this is most
likely a dirty throttle body or malfunctioning air intake servo problem.

I am not familiar with the Colt (Mitsubishi engine), but if you can find the
air intake filter and follow the intake, it will lead you to the throttle
body which leads to the intake manifold. If you can remove the air intake
from the throttle body (there is usually a round clamp) it should expose the
throttle plate. This is usually a round flat metal plate that closes
completely at idle and opens as you depress the throttle/accelerator. If
you open this up manually (with engine off) and spray this with throttle
body cleaner (available at auto parts store or your local Chrysler dealer)
and scrub it out completely (I use an old toothbrush and clean rag to wipe
the gunk out) repeatedly until clean your idle performance should improve.
(This is because the throttle plate doesn't seat properly against the
throttle body due to the deposits that have collected there.) Once you get
the worst of it out, you can start the engine and then spray the cleaner
down the throat of the throttle body while revving the engine to keep it
from dying. (Keep the RPM well under red-line.) You should repeat as
needed and use up the entire can of cleaner.

The Air Intake Servo is usually connected to the throttle body and also get
gunked up as well. You can sometimes get this clean using the throttle body
cleaner method described above. In some cases, it will need to be removed,
cleaned, and re-assembled requiring replacement of gaskets. In worst case,
it may need to be replaced if not functioning properly.

BTW, Another thing that should be easy to try (and also suggested by
saeengineer) is to replace the fuel filter. I would also throw a can of
quality fuel injector cleaner in the gas tank for a couple of tanks as well
since this can only help if the injectors are clogged.

By the way, your idle, if truly at 500RPM sounds like it is way too low to
me (your service manual will tell you what it should be, but I would expect
700 or 750 to be normal). You may find that cleaning the throttle body may
bring this back up so I would not mess with the idle screw adjustment till
you get everything else working properly.

Good luck

Bob

PS You may find you get more help from people familiar with this vehicle at
rec.autos.makers.Chrysler or rec.autos.makers.Mitsubishi (not nearly as
widely read as the Chrysler group)

"saeengineer" &lt;saeengineer@spamstop.net&gt; wrote in message
news:h1c3jv0t87t3ps80hm9kvinaa4pftg3rqn@4ax.com...
On Wed, 06 Aug 2003 20:07:55 -0400, tanya &lt;seeAddress@bot.tom&gt; wrote:

&lt;snip&gt;

The idle
speed may also be a tad low causing an excessively low charge rate at
idle.
i have to get the technical manual for the car and change the idle...

YES... YES... increase the idle

i will when i get the manual next week (actually it idles at 500 rpm)

I have said it before in this group, but it is a good idea to do a
through throttle body and IAC cleaning particularity with idle problems
(and when tune up items have been replaced with no effect on the
problem).

The Idle Speed Control adjustment on this model must be done with a
Throttle Position Sensor check.

I would strongly suggest replacing the fuel filter. Not only can a
plugged fuel filter cause rough running and low power output, it also
puts additional strain on the fuel pump. The worst thing that could
happen is the fuel lines get mangled during removal and the fuel lines
would have to be replaced also.

After these items are completed, I would check the fuel pressure and
pull trouble codes. No code reader is required for this vehicle, only
an analog voltmeter (or a digital one with an analog/bar graph display).
If you need instructions for this post back.

Unfortunately, this vehicle (like so many of it's japanese brothers) has
very little information available in regards to trouble codes. There
are only seven codes available and the descriptions are for lack of a
better word *broad*. Still worth checking though.

HTH

 

[Andrew Rossmann]

[This followup was posted to sci.electronics.repair and a copy was sent to
the cited author.]

In article &lt;3f320533$1_1@news.iprimus.com.au&gt;, boozo@bogpond.com says...

Can anyone help me with the pinouts for a Hyundai C310XU AM/FM
car radio/cassette ?
The radio was recovered from a write off and the plug and cables
were not marked for reinstallation.

Now we have a radio with 10 pins and don't know which is which !!

Is there anywhere I can get this info ?

http://www.installdr.com/

They have some info, but Hyndai wasn't specifically listed. There is
also a bulletin board that you can ask for help on.

--
If there is a no_junk in my address, please REMOVE it before replying!
All junk mail senders will be prosecuted to the fullest extent of the
law!!
http://home.att.net/~andyross

 

[Jerry Greenberg]

I have seen CRT's go weak where there was a lot of brightness loss,
and yet the pictures were still sharp. I think it is how the tube
deteriates that indicates how it will look. Most of the time, they do
go soft, but not always.

Jerry Greenberg

--


Lionel &lt;nop@alt.net&gt; wrote in message news:&lt;bgtohe$jhb$0@pita.alt.net&gt;...

On Thu, 7 Aug 2003 07:17:14 -0700, in
vj4nt635sjni52@corp.supernews.com&gt;, "Sofie" &lt;sofie@olypen.com&gt; said:

Lionel:
You cannot "fix" or "tweak" a weak CRT. In it's previous life, it was
probably left on 24/7 ..... this is most likely why you were able to pick
it up for "cheap" at a market.
A CRT rejuvenator like a B&amp;K or Sencor MIGHT be able to eek some more life
and brightness out of it.

Any time I've looked at monitors with worn out CRTs, they've usually had
weak contrast, &amp; a general 'murky' look. This one has a razor sharp,
very clean image, apart from the lack in brightness. (It was running
when I bought it, &amp; I wouldn't have bothered if it'd had a bad looking
image.)

It's worth mentioning that this beast has a digital diags port that's
accessible via a hatch on the rear cover, &amp; that the service guide says
you're supposed to use some sort of proprietory device to do the initial
convergence (etc) setup on it. My guess is that you need it to access
all the adjustments that are normally done with trimmers, etc.

 

[Jerry Greenberg]

We've had Maytags for many years in our family. One of them needed
maintenace, but was covered by warranty. They were excellent, and now
that they are going on to be over 15 years old, we are considering
Maytag again!

Get a copy of Consumer's Magazine if you can. There are also some
consumer books in some of the major book stores. I would look for
things like service availabity, service records for the models you
want, and for the ergonomics of the design. My impression is that the
ones that can come with the biggest warranty are usually the ones that
will last the longest.

Jerry Greenberg

--



"ThomasNews" &lt;thomasnews@iprimus.com.au&gt; wrote in message news:&lt;3f321a07_1@news.iprimus.com.au&gt;...

Hi All,

We are in the market for a new front loader washing machine.

Is there any particular brand that is longer lasting and reliable than
others?

Many thanks in advance.

Thomas.

 

[tanya]

Thank you very much, Bob
i've printed your post and once i obtain the service manual will follow your
suggestions
also many thanks for the pointer to the other newsGroups!
btw, i found out that the petrol i was using, although having the highest
octane, is from one of the companies that at least where i live is known
currently to have impurities / problems... i also found out that this car has
NEVER had the tank emptied and being 14 y/old it has to have water in it...
SO...got advice on using fuel line antiFreeze or water remover to get rid of the
tank water.
well i tried it and filled with the 1 company that is supplying what they say
they are and the car runs 90% better! right away!
minimal vibration and great acceleration.
plus i found a decent chrysler dealer who knows this car and will replace the
fuel filter.
i again REALLY appreciate your advice and stress that i have printed it for when
the service manual arrives as i am certain that water in the tank is NOT the
only problem
thanks!
sincerely
Tanya


Bob Shuman wrote:

Tanya,

Based on the updated information (that the vehicle was recently tuned) that
you provided, I am inclined to agree with saeengineer that this is most
likely a dirty throttle body or malfunctioning air intake servo problem.

I am not familiar with the Colt (Mitsubishi engine), but if you can find the
air intake filter and follow the intake, it will lead you to the throttle
body which leads to the intake manifold. If you can remove the air intake
from the throttle body (there is usually a round clamp) it should expose the
throttle plate. This is usually a round flat metal plate that closes
completely at idle and opens as you depress the throttle/accelerator. If
you open this up manually (with engine off) and spray this with throttle
body cleaner (available at auto parts store or your local Chrysler dealer)
and scrub it out completely (I use an old toothbrush and clean rag to wipe
the gunk out) repeatedly until clean your idle performance should improve.
(This is because the throttle plate doesn't seat properly against the
throttle body due to the deposits that have collected there.) Once you get
the worst of it out, you can start the engine and then spray the cleaner
down the throat of the throttle body while revving the engine to keep it
from dying. (Keep the RPM well under red-line.) You should repeat as
needed and use up the entire can of cleaner.

The Air Intake Servo is usually connected to the throttle body and also get
gunked up as well. You can sometimes get this clean using the throttle body
cleaner method described above. In some cases, it will need to be removed,
cleaned, and re-assembled requiring replacement of gaskets. In worst case,
it may need to be replaced if not functioning properly.

BTW, Another thing that should be easy to try (and also suggested by
saeengineer) is to replace the fuel filter. I would also throw a can of
quality fuel injector cleaner in the gas tank for a couple of tanks as well
since this can only help if the injectors are clogged.

By the way, your idle, if truly at 500RPM sounds like it is way too low to
me (your service manual will tell you what it should be, but I would expect
700 or 750 to be normal). You may find that cleaning the throttle body may
bring this back up so I would not mess with the idle screw adjustment till
you get everything else working properly.

Good luck

Bob

PS You may find you get more help from people familiar with this vehicle at
rec.autos.makers.Chrysler or rec.autos.makers.Mitsubishi (not nearly as
widely read as the Chrysler group)

&lt;SNIP&gt;


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