Toshiba TV29C90 problem; Image fades to black...

[tanya]

Robert Hancock wrote:

Voltages sound normal, it sounds more like the engine isn't maintaining the
correct idle speed, or maybe is misfiring. What kind of car is this?

Thank you for replying!
it does not misfire however it does LAG when trying to accelerate (or hesitate
is a better description)
AFAIK (very little i read this could be due to (amongst other things) problem
w/ the fuel filter.
i know that the fuel filter is rusted (according to an auto mechanic service
center) and they did not want to replace it in case it ?broke? so i'm using
extra super $$$ fuel because it has detergents?

it is a mitsubishi / dodge / chrysler colt 200
thanks very much again!
sincerely
Tanya

--
Robert Hancock Saskatoon, SK, Canada
To email, remove "nospam" from hancockr@nospamshaw.ca
Home Page: http://www.roberthancock.com/

"tanya" <seeAddress@bot.tom> wrote in message
news:3F302866.DDB3F701@bot.tom...
Sc0tt wrote:

<snip>

okay sorry...
14 year old car; automatic transmission, 1.6 liter engine

problem: when the car is in gear (drive, reverse, etc.) and stopped it
vibrates until one pushes the gas pedal... This does NOT occur while in
neutral or when in park.
It sounds as if it might stall and the idle is less than or equal to 1 X
1000
rpm.
when the radio is on and windshield wipers and i put the lights on while
the
car is in gear and stopped, the vibration increases plus the lights dim if
i
put turn on the ventilation.

i did a load test with the car cold and warm (before and after driving it)
cold
before starting, the voltmeter (on the battery) read 12.5 V.
starting it read 14.3 and adding (cumulatively) the lights, radio,
interior
light, ventilation fan, and the windShield wipers, it went to ~ 14.2
Then i turned all the above off (except the engine) and it stayed at 14.2

warm
then drove around for maybe 45 minutes and when the car was in park (at
home)
the voltmeter across the battery read 13.9.
(I did not turn off the car after driving it)
then adding back things cumulatively (as above), the voltage continued to
drop
(staying at 13.x) but when i added the ventilation i couldn't get a steady
reading on the battery -- it fluctuated from 13.1 - 13.4.

after all was off (aside from the engine) it read 13.9.
Just wonder whether if i drove it for a several hours would the voltage
continue to drop?
perhaps 13.9 is normal (when the engine is warm / hot)?
and whether an alternator should be keeping the battery at 14.x for at
least
45 minutes?
and how to tell whether the voltage regulator / alternator belt may be
involved.

sorry for the unClear post and hope this makes more sense
sincerely
Tanya


--
to reply:
userName: tjtmd
domain: attglobal.net
and separate the 2 words with the at sign

--
to reply:
userName: tjtmd
domain: attglobal.net
and separate the 2 words with the at sign

 

[tanya]

hello and thanks for the reply!
[...below...]

Tweetldee wrote:

"tanya" <seeAddress@bot.tom> wrote in message
news:3F302866.DDB3F701@bot.tom...
Sc0tt wrote:

tanya wrote:
X-posted

<snip>

okay sorry...
14 year old car; automatic transmission, 1.6 liter engine

problem: when the car is in gear (drive, reverse, etc.) and stopped it
vibrates until one pushes the gas pedal... This does NOT occur while in
neutral or when in park.
It sounds as if it might stall and the idle is less than or equal to 1 X
1000
rpm.
when the radio is on and windshield wipers and i put the lights on while
the
car is in gear and stopped, the vibration increases plus the lights dim if
i
put turn on the ventilation.

i did a load test with the car cold and warm (before and after driving it)
cold
before starting, the voltmeter (on the battery) read 12.5 V.
starting it read 14.3 and adding (cumulatively) the lights, radio,
interior
light, ventilation fan, and the windShield wipers, it went to ~ 14.2
Then i turned all the above off (except the engine) and it stayed at 14.2

warm
then drove around for maybe 45 minutes and when the car was in park (at
home)
the voltmeter across the battery read 13.9.
(I did not turn off the car after driving it)
then adding back things cumulatively (as above), the voltage continued to
drop
(staying at 13.x) but when i added the ventilation i couldn't get a steady
reading on the battery -- it fluctuated from 13.1 - 13.4.

after all was off (aside from the engine) it read 13.9.
Just wonder whether if i drove it for a several hours would the voltage
continue to drop?
perhaps 13.9 is normal (when the engine is warm / hot)?
and whether an alternator should be keeping the battery at 14.x for at
least
45 minutes?
and how to tell whether the voltage regulator / alternator belt may be
involved.

sorry for the unClear post and hope this makes more sense
sincerely
Tanya


That's much better. THANKS !!!
Normally, a good battery and a normally operating alternator will maintain
approximately 14.4 volts under fast idle, with any load that is within the
output rating of the alternator. The lower the temperature, the higher the
output voltage. Under normal idle, the voltage will probably drop to around
13.8 volts, but certainly not down to 13.1 volts. You definitely have a
problem there.

i should have actually divided this into 2 possible problems
1. battery right on start up is 14.4 and after driving for 45 minutes the same
voltmeter reads 13.9....
2. loading it after brought it down to 13.1 however before (when engine was
cool) brought it to 14.2
3. the fan (inside (air circulator)) caused the voltmeter on the battery to
change continuously from 13.1 <-> 13.4
adding wipers it was steady at 13.1 (everything else was left on including the
inside fan and all of these items realistically could be needed (aside from the
interior light) at once.)
maybe i should check the voltage with the ventilation first (cold and warm
engine)?

Since your voltage is fluctuating so much, you could have either of three
problems, as you questioned in your post. Bad battery, bad alternator or
bad regulator. The best way to diagnose the actual problem is by:
(1) performing a load test on the battery with the engine off. A parts
store can do this test for you, usually a free service.

couldn't i do this with the voltmeter? and turn on the lights, exterior and
interior?
if i could turn the key to the point where the panel lights are on then i could
test the other things (i don't think the alternator is involved yet before
actually turning over the engine???)
the battery has been reading 12.x consistently wouldn't this indicate a good
battery?

(2) taking the alternator to a parts store and have them test it. This is
also usually a free service.

(3) elimination of (1) and (2) as the problem.

The fact that your engine is running rough indicates a different problem,
probably unrelated to the charging system. As was suggested by another
poster, check your plugs, distributor cap, plug wires, and don't forget the
ignition coil. In other words, the engine may just need a tune-up.

actually it just had a tune up...
they changed / replaced the following:
the spark plugs and spark plug wires
the distributor cap...
and the pollution control valve, air filter, and ignition rotor...

I have
had two coils to go bad and they both caused very rough idle.

what was wrong with them?
this car also hesitates on accelerating both in drive and 2nd which i read could
be due to a bad fuel filter...i know that the fuel filter in this car is rusted
(and they did not want to touch it)
thanks very much again for the reply!
sincerely
Tanya



--
to reply:
userName: tjtmd
domain: attglobal.net
and separate the 2 words with the at sign

 

[tanya]

hello Jeremy,
thank you for the response!
[...below...]

"Jeremy D. Grotte" wrote:

Sounds to me like the IAC motor is jammed or the pintle on the IAC is coked
up and not moving. 14 year old car means a 1989 model. Most cars back then
had ECM's, most had IAC's.

i have to look these up...

Quick way to check; let the car idle in park with nothing on. Pump the
brakes fast (assuming you've got power brakes), which in effect simulates a
vacuum leak. The rev's should drop initially then come back up. If the
rev's only drop (leaning out) or only go up (leaning out due to a rich
mixture)

i'll try that

then the IAC isn't compensating. And you could also pull a vacuum
line off. Just don't pull off the one that goes to the MAP sensor (if
equipped). As soon as you pull it off the rev's should do the same thing as
pumping the brakes, only moreso.

i have to get a technical manual for this car.

Actually the fact that the vibration stops when you hit the brakes says the
IAC is working to me (some cars idle up a bit when you step on the brake
thinking you're about to move)

actually the vibrating only stops when one hits the gas pedal -- the vibrating
does NOT stop with the brakes or without (in drive, reverse and 2nd, and i guess
low gear) fwiw, it is worst in reverse.
it is fine in neutral and park though

Everything you've described with the battery voltage and the alternator
sounds completely normal to me.

the concern i have is the initial reading cold of 14.3 or 14.4 and the reading
of the battery AFTER driving it (with only the car on and nothing else i thought
that the alternator was supposed to maintain the car at 14.x (especially w/o
loading it))

When's the last time this thing had a tune-up? Plugs, wires, cap/rotor (if
equipped)...did ya check the coils for primary/secondary resistance?

recently: plugs and plug wires, distributor cap, ignition rotor, air filter, and
pollution control valve were all replaced...
i'm not sure what coils you refer to... if they are within arm's reach i could
check the resistance

Do a quicky spark plug check. Fire up the car, warm it up, put on a heavy
pair of gloves, pull one plug wire at a time, note the rpm drop, replace the
plug wire. Check the plugs on the ones that didn't drop much rpm, hence not
adding much power to the engine.

i'll try it

Do a quicky spark plug wire check. Wait until it's dark outside, very dark.
Fire up the car, warm it up, open the hood (bonnet), follow the plug wires
with your eyes, only don't look directly at them, look just a bit below
them, sort of out of the corner of your eye (which is more sensitive to
light). Have somebody else put the car in gear with their foot on the brake
and rev it up just a little bit. Look for arcing or corona around the plug
wires or the distributor cap (if equipped) or coils. If you see one and
it's bright, chances are there's a problem there too.

i'll try that too

thanks again for all the info... although the car is getting from point A to B
and back, being 14 years old, i don't want to be causing more problems by
driving it.
btw it really does well on the highway and it even vibrates less after the 2
miles on the highWay but starts again soon when driving back in the city.
sincerely
Tanya

"tanya" <seeAddress@bot.tom> wrote in message
news:3F302866.DDB3F701@bot.tom...
okay sorry...
14 year old car; automatic transmission, 1.6 liter engine

problem: when the car is in gear (drive, reverse, etc.) and stopped it
vibrates until one pushes the gas pedal... This does NOT occur while in
neutral or when in park.
It sounds as if it might stall and the idle is less than or equal to 1 X
1000
rpm.
when the radio is on and windshield wipers and i put the lights on while
the
car is in gear and stopped, the vibration increases plus the lights dim if
i
put turn on the ventilation.

i did a load test with the car cold and warm (before and after driving it)
cold
before starting, the voltmeter (on the battery) read 12.5 V.
starting it read 14.3 and adding (cumulatively) the lights, radio,
interior
light, ventilation fan, and the windShield wipers, it went to ~ 14.2
Then i turned all the above off (except the engine) and it stayed at 14.2

warm
then drove around for maybe 45 minutes and when the car was in park (at
home)
the voltmeter across the battery read 13.9.
(I did not turn off the car after driving it)
then adding back things cumulatively (as above), the voltage continued to
drop
(staying at 13.x) but when i added the ventilation i couldn't get a steady
reading on the battery -- it fluctuated from 13.1 - 13.4.

after all was off (aside from the engine) it read 13.9.
Just wonder whether if i drove it for a several hours would the voltage
continue to drop?
perhaps 13.9 is normal (when the engine is warm / hot)?
and whether an alternator should be keeping the battery at 14.x for at
least
45 minutes?
and how to tell whether the voltage regulator / alternator belt may be
involved.

--
to reply:
userName: tjtmd
domain: attglobal.net
and separate the 2 words with the at sign

 

[tanya]

hello and many thanks for the reply!
[...below...]

Sofie wrote:

Tanya:
I would think that anything above 13.4 volts is charging your battery real
good........ I don't think you have anything to worry about. The apparent
voltage drop you described .... from 14.4, 14.3, 14.2, .... to 13.9 can
easily be attributed to the alternator and it's built in voltage regulator
responding to the heat of the engine and the heat of it's own operation.....
I would say that this could be normal temperature drift

well it was worse when when the engine was hot after driving it... but i guess
what i am worried about is the fact that the load test after returning went down
to 13.1 (everything that was on (aside from the interior lights) could
reasonably be on at the same time.)
i'd just thought that the alternator was supposed to keep the battery at 14.x...

.... and as I stated
at the beginning of my reply..... anything above 13.4 volts means that all
is usually OK for most cars. When the voltage gets below somewhere around
13.0 to 13.2 volts when the engine is running then you may have a genuine
charging problem.
Remember too, there can be a difference in the accuracy of digital
meters...... a 0.1 or 0.2 volt variation at the voltages you are measuring

i have an analog voltmeter and i'll try that too...

in most inexpensive digital meters is normal.and only represents about a 1%
error..... so this means that when you think you are reading 13.9 Volts, it
really could be 14.1 volts or more..... of course it could go the other way
too......... either case I do not think I would be worrying too much.
BTW.... a brand new battery and clean tight battery connections may help
minimize the voltage fluctuation from idle to running speed.

it has a brand new battery and the connections are tight and the battery is
clean

The idle
speed may also be a tad low causing an excessively low charge rate at idle.

i have to get the technical manual for the car and change the idle...

--
Best Regards,
Daniel Sofie
Electronics Supply & Repair
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

thanks again!
sincerely
Tanya




--
to reply:
userName: tjtmd
domain: attglobal.net
and separate the 2 words with the at sign

 

[tanya]

WbSearch wrote:

Most auto parts stores have an alternator tester that checks the alternator and
voltage regulator. Cracked belts are best checked by eye.

thank you!



--
to reply:
userName: tjtmd
domain: attglobal.net
and separate the 2 words with the at sign

 

[saeengineer]

On Wed, 6 Aug 2003 01:16:43 -0600, "Jeremy D. Grotte"
<jdgrotte@ndak.net> wrote:

Actually the fact that the vibration stops when you hit the brakes says the
IAC is working to me (some cars idle up a bit when you step on the brake
thinking you're about to move).

Agreed

Everything you've described with the battery voltage and the alternator
sounds completely normal to me.

Agreed

When's the last time this thing had a tune-up? Plugs, wires, cap/rotor (if
equipped)...did ya check the coils for primary/secondary resistance?

I would also be looking more towards a basic tuneup problem rather than
an alternator or battery problem.

Do a quicky spark plug check. Fire up the car, warm it up, put on a heavy
pair of gloves, pull one plug wire at a time, note the rpm drop, replace the
plug wire. Check the plugs on the ones that didn't drop much rpm, hence not
adding much power to the engine.

I would add that you would want to disconnect the IAC before doing this
as the ECM will try to compensate for a change in idle speed and confuse
the readings.

Do a quicky spark plug wire check. Wait until it's dark outside, very dark.
Fire up the car, warm it up, open the hood (bonnet), follow the plug wires
with your eyes, only don't look directly at them, look just a bit below
them, sort of out of the corner of your eye (which is more sensitive to
light). Have somebody else put the car in gear with their foot on the brake
and rev it up just a little bit. Look for arcing or corona around the plug
wires or the distributor cap (if equipped) or coils. If you see one and
it's bright, chances are there's a problem there too.

 

[Impmon]

On Wed, 6 Aug 2003 09:21:29 +0000 (UTC), don@manx.misty.com (Don
Klipstein) typed:

Back to lightning: Sometimes it can "spark around" what it hits if
the current multiplied by the target's resistance is a voltage high enough
to start a new path around the target. Obviously, someone conducting
enough current from a lightning strike to make this happen has a
significant (but short of 100%) chance of cardiac arrest.

In other word, if you're caught outside in a storm with no shelter, your
best chance of surviving is to let yourself get wet so electricity would
only cook your skin and not your gut.
--
All viruses and spams are automatically removed by my ISP before
reaching my inbox.

 

[Childfree Scott]

I also agree that based on the posted information with the voltage
reading that your battery, alternator, and voltage regulator are all
working good.

 

[Sofie]

Tanya:
read my responses below:

lots of snipetts:

Tanya wrote the following:
well it was worse when when the engine was hot after driving it... but i
guess
what i am worried about is the fact that the load test after returning
went down
to 13.1 (everything that was on (aside from the interior lights) could
reasonably be on at the same time.)
i'd just thought that the alternator was supposed to keep the battery at
14.x...

If you are measuring the full load voltage when the engine is just at
idle..... while looking at your meter, step lightly on the accellerator
pedal and increase the engine speed..... I would bet that the "low" voltage
reading that you are concerned about will kick up into a more normal
reading.

i have an analog voltmeter and i'll try that too...

Forget the analog meter..... a waste of time no matter how good it is.....
trying to measure the small 0.1 volt increments we are concerned about with
automotive batteries and charging systems is best done with the digital...
I love analog meters and acturally prefer them for general troubleshooting
but this task requires the digital meter.

The idle
speed may also be a tad low causing an excessively low charge rate at
idle.
i have to get the technical manual for the car and change the idle...

YES... YES... increase the idle

--
Best Regards,
Daniel Sofie
Electronics Supply & Repair
^
^

 

[Geoff Miller]

"Jeeters" <noham@nospam.com> writes:

You know what electricians say? "It's not the volts that matter,
it's the amps!"

A friend of mine once told me he'd seen a black, white and red
OSHA-style warning sticker that read, "CAUTION: 2000 Ohms."



Geoff

--
If you want peace, work for superior firepower.

 

[Chris Street]

On Tue, 05 Aug 2003 07:24:11 -0500, physics-teacher@rooseveltHS.edu
wrote:

On Tue, 05 Aug 2003 11:27:08 GMT, Impmon <Impmon@tds.net> wrote:

On Mon, 04 Aug 2003 13:12:13 -0500, americanfamilyagent207@livewire.com
typed:

player became cracked during the fall to the floor, emitting the fatal
radiation which killed the entire family of seven.
[snip]

I'm having a hard time with that. Granted the laser inside the DVD
player is harmful but unless you looked directly at the laster, you
won't be harmed by a cracked case. I've had the case off of my DVD
player for a few days when I was trying to get the spindle working and
I'm doing fine.

There is no way the radiation from the player can killthe whole family.

Being a physics teacher, let me explain something.

A laser can go through the smallest hole, and if the disk is rotating
inside, the laser beams can be reflected at millions of different
angles, and many thousand times per second. Thus the laser beams
could spew out of that crack like bullets coming out of a machine gun.
Anyone in the path of these beams are instantly history. So, yes it
can kill a whole family and even a whole stadium full of people in
seconds. Lasers are dangerous and if one gets out of control, like
apparently this one did, there is no telling who or what will be
killed or destroyed.

LOL - very good!
--
79.84% of all statistics are made up on the spot.
The other 42% are made up later on.
In Warwick - looking at flat fields and that includes the castle.

 

[Jeremy D. Grotte]

"saeengineer" <saeengineer@spamstop.net> wrote in message
news:1t02jv8j71smaih35tmad3q3uohfgg17g6@4ax.com...
On Wed, 6 Aug 2003 01:16:43 -0600, "Jeremy D. Grotte"
<jdgrotte@ndak.net> wrote:

Do a quicky spark plug check. Fire up the car, warm it up, put on a heavy
pair of gloves, pull one plug wire at a time, note the rpm drop, replace
the
plug wire. Check the plugs on the ones that didn't drop much rpm, hence
not
adding much power to the engine.

I would add that you would want to disconnect the IAC before doing this
as the ECM will try to compensate for a change in idle speed and confuse
the readings.

Oh ya...DUH!!! Not much sense in checking that without disconnecting the
IAC...

 

[H. R. Bob Hofmann]

Bill Webb <spam@cexx.org> wrote in message news:<bgqija$uga$1@slb9.atl.mindspring.net>...

A few days ago we had some severe weather that resulted in several brief
brownouts and power outages (a few seconds each). When the power came
back on, the answering machine began beeping and hasn't shut up since.
As soon as power is applied, the machine immediately begins a pattern of
5 beeps, brief pause, 5 beeps, brief pause... while blinking 'F1' on the
message counter. The unit does not respond to any input. This continues
until power is disconnected. Nothing mentioned about this in the
manuals, of course.

I figured it had just gotten its memory scrambled by the power outages,
so left it unplugged for a few minutes, followed by a few hours,
followed by a couple days...to no effect. (All the 'obvious' fixes have
been tried.) Looking inside the unit, there are no batteries, supercaps,
etc. inside to retain the memory, nor any hidden 'Reset' buttons or
contact pads. (There are pads for buttons that don't exist on the front
panel, which might be fun to experiment with if the machine weren't
"broken"

As my last act of defiance, I discharged across all the capacitors
anyway and left it sit for a while, also to no effect. Any suggestions?

As a former Lucent employee, even we wouldn't buy those machines, so I
suggest you toss it or scrap for whatever parts you can salvage. New
machines are cheap and probably a lot better!!!!

 

[Jordan Lund]

don@manx.misty.com (Don Klipstein) wrote in message news:<slrnbj1i4o.oh4.don@manx.misty.com>...

Back to lightning: Sometimes it can "spark around" what it hits if
the current multiplied by the target's resistance is a voltage high enough
to start a new path around the target. Obviously, someone conducting
enough current from a lightning strike to make this happen has a
significant (but short of 100%) chance of cardiac arrest.

Actually something like that happened just South of here YESTERDAY!

http://www.koin.com/webnews/20033/20030806_lightning.shtml

Lightning Blows Through Girl's Ear, Out Thigh

8-Year-Old Suffers Burns To Lower Body

LEBANON, Ore. -- An 8-year-old girl struck by lightning early Tuesday
is resting at Doernbecher Children's Hospital. Alexia Myronenko of
Bakersfield, Calif., was camping out at her grandparents' Lebanon
house when lightning struck a nearby tree.

The electricity moved through the tree's roots and into Myronenko, who
was sleeping on the ground in a tent. It apparently blew through her
ear and out her thigh.

"The whole house lit up, and next thing I know, I see my son running
with my granddaughter in his arms," Myronenko's grandfather, Vic, told
KOIN 6 News.

The girl's father performed CPR until she began breathing and regained
consciousness. Myronenko suffered burns on the lower portion of her
body.

Other family members also in the tent were sleeping on air mattresses.
Myronenko had rolled off her mattress, which could have shielded her
from the bolt.

 

[Hank]

And if you get the 240 volt auto cauterizing units, there's no bleeding!

At least with these DVD lasers, the cuts are usually pretty clean making the
prognosis for reattachment of fingers and/or limbs pretty good.

 

On Tue, 5 Aug 2003 09:06:47 -0400, "Jeeters" <noham@nospam.com> wrote:

At least with these DVD lasers, the cuts are usually pretty clean making the
prognosis for reattachment of fingers and/or limbs pretty good.

"Hank" <hank@arlen.com> wrote in message
news:a5CXa.2438$a%2.1431@newssvr19.news.prodigy.com...
Bet it was an Apex brand. I have one with a flaky laser and it severed a
finger
once when I reached for the DVD disc too soon.


A New Mexico family was killed by a DVD player last Friday.

For any goofballs who actually entertained the idea
a DVD laser might pose a threat at all, here's one you
can buy for your desktop that does.

http://www.hitecpioneers.com/laser/versalaser.htm

 

Not so quick wrote:

Have you ever heard a news story
where only the state and not the city
was reported? I thought this was going
to be a joke. It's not funny and I'm sad
that many people will believe it if it gets
distributed.

A fairly big tip-off that this is a joke is the bad grammar -- a real
newspaper writer would know to say "lying" instead of "laying" --- twice !

 

[Geoff Miller]

Gary Woods <gwoods@spamfree.albany.net> writes:

[ "black, white and red OSHA-style warning sticker" ]

Shouldn't that have been red, black, and red?

Excuse me? Is this an in-joke that's popular among
the taped-up-glasses-and-pocket-protector set, or
perhaps a pun?



Geoff

--
If you want peace, work for superior firepower.

 

[Jeff]

"tanya" <seeAddress@bot.tom> wrote in message
news:3F310D7E.594D00E6@bot.tom...

it is a mitsubishi / dodge / chrysler colt 200
thanks very much again!
sincerely
Tanya

The 89 mitsubishi made ECMs do have a known
capacitor problem.
Jeff

 

[tanya]

Childfree Scott wrote:

I also agree that based on the posted information with the voltage
reading that your battery, alternator, and voltage regulator are all
working good.

thank you...



--
to reply:
userName: tjtmd
domain: attglobal.net
and separate the 2 words with the at sign