Toshiba TV29C90 problem; Image fades to black...

[John Del]

From: "J. Bryan Wehrenberg" bryan@hcss.com
Date: 8/5/03 12:38 PM Eastern Daylight Time
Message-id: <bgomta$qtkn5$1@ID-135017.news.uni-berlin.de

I have a Toshiba CF35F40 that the tuner has gone bad on. I've had a Best
Buy repairman out to look at it and he determined that was the cause.
However, after about a year he has repeatedly told me that the part is on
back order through Best Buy and suggested I go through another method to
obtain the part. I was able to order the part through Sears and will have
it in a few days. Sears will charge me a minimum of $96 to come out and put
the new tuner in (it may be more, they haven't come out yet.)

I know for a fact that Toshiba had certain tuners on back order for two years.
They finally came in early this summer.

Is the original tech willing to install you get from Sears?


John Del
Wolcott, CT

"Nothing is so opportune for tyrants as a people tired of its liberty."
Alan Keyes

(remove S for email reply)

 

[Robert Hancock]

Voltages sound normal, it sounds more like the engine isn't maintaining the
correct idle speed, or maybe is misfiring. What kind of car is this?

--
Robert Hancock Saskatoon, SK, Canada
To email, remove "nospam" from hancockr@nospamshaw.ca
Home Page: http://www.roberthancock.com/


"tanya" <seeAddress@bot.tom> wrote in message
news:3F302866.DDB3F701@bot.tom...

Sc0tt wrote:

tanya wrote:
X-posted
hello,
14 yOld 1.6L automatic
problems: when in gear (any) and NOT giving it gas (whether or not the
brake is on), it vibrates and sounds like it could stall (idle is just
~
1*10^3 or a bit less) this stops when one hits the gas petal.
does NOT occur in park or neutral.
also with radio, lights, etc. the vibrating INCREASES (when stopped)
i did <i think> a sortOf load test (testing voltage across the
battery)
and p.t. starting, voltage was 12.5 (cold engine) right when started,
it
went to 14.3 (+lights, +radio, + interior light, + ventilation = =
14.3
but with wipers ALSO went 14.2 (i guess that's no big deal) (with all
snip

Could you repost this with some text formatting, spelling, and
puntuation added?

I am not a grammar nazi, but your post is really hard to read. Split in
into some paragraphs and such if you want people to read it.

Scot

okay sorry...
14 year old car; automatic transmission, 1.6 liter engine

problem: when the car is in gear (drive, reverse, etc.) and stopped it
vibrates until one pushes the gas pedal... This does NOT occur while in
neutral or when in park.
It sounds as if it might stall and the idle is less than or equal to 1 X
1000
rpm.
when the radio is on and windshield wipers and i put the lights on while
the
car is in gear and stopped, the vibration increases plus the lights dim if
i
put turn on the ventilation.

i did a load test with the car cold and warm (before and after driving it)
cold
before starting, the voltmeter (on the battery) read 12.5 V.
starting it read 14.3 and adding (cumulatively) the lights, radio,
interior
light, ventilation fan, and the windShield wipers, it went to ~ 14.2
Then i turned all the above off (except the engine) and it stayed at 14.2

warm
then drove around for maybe 45 minutes and when the car was in park (at
home)
the voltmeter across the battery read 13.9.
(I did not turn off the car after driving it)
then adding back things cumulatively (as above), the voltage continued to
drop
(staying at 13.x) but when i added the ventilation i couldn't get a steady
reading on the battery -- it fluctuated from 13.1 - 13.4.

after all was off (aside from the engine) it read 13.9.
Just wonder whether if i drove it for a several hours would the voltage
continue to drop?
perhaps 13.9 is normal (when the engine is warm / hot)?
and whether an alternator should be keeping the battery at 14.x for at
least
45 minutes?
and how to tell whether the voltage regulator / alternator belt may be
involved.

sorry for the unClear post and hope this makes more sense
sincerely
Tanya


--
to reply:
userName: tjtmd
domain: attglobal.net
and separate the 2 words with the at sign

 

[Sam Goldwasser]

pentagrid@yahoo.com writes:

On Wed, 30 Jul 2003 21:30:05 +0000 (UTC), "Tom Jacobs"
tomjacobs@lineone.net&gt; wrote:

Many of the early UK front loading washing machines used multi
winding squirrel cage capacitor start and run induction motors. These
had typically a high power (about 1/3HP) 2 pole winding for the spin
cycle and a low power (about 1/8 HP) 6 or 8 pole winding for low speed
wash cycle. Because these were induction motors the natural speed
regulation was quite good and electronic control was not needed.

Later machines needed a lot more power for the high speed spin
cycles and these used high speed series wound commutator motors
because these can deliver much more power (1/2 to 1Hp short term
rated) for a given size and cost. The natural speed regulation of
series wound machines is inherently poor and electronic control is
essential for washing machine service. While crude form of speed
control is possible by sensing the back EMF of the motor this is not
good enough for the wide range of speed and loads needed for the
wash/spin cycles. Because of this pretty well all motors are fitted
with a "tacho" (tachometer) which is a very small (and very crude!) AC
generator which produces an electrical output directly proportional to
speed. A closed loop electronic speed control is used to adjust the
power input to the motor until it delivers the the desired speed
sensed by the tacho output.

Sorry, don't take this as a criticism or anything more extreme but why
do European washers need so much more speed for the spin than American
machines? As far as I know, we are still happily using induction motors.
And, no it's not the difference between 50 and 60 Hz.

--- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ Home Page: http://www.repairfaq.org/
Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/
+Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/lasersam.htm
| Mirror Site Info: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/F_mirror.html

Important: The email address in this message header may no longer work. To
contact me, please use the Feedback Form at repairfaq.org. Thanks.

 

[Sam Goldwasser]

"Wayne Tiffany" &lt;wayne.tiffany@asi.com&gt; writes:

So my question to the group is "What causes the oily residue?" On mine it
really looked like someone had coated the board with a lightweight oil.
Sounds like George found the same thing. The only thing I can figure is
that the rubber switch membrane is leaching out some type of oily substance
as a result of being a petroleum based item???? Any other ideas?

WT

"George Earl" &lt;gearl@comcast.net&gt; wrote in message
news:u7ptiv46854nu945hoviospqbiq4d1f76q@4ax.com...
On Mon, 04 Aug 2003 16:30:57 -0400, George Earl &lt;gearl@comcast.net
wrote:

On Mon, 4 Aug 2003 15:19:29 -0500, "Wayne Tiffany"
wayne.tiffany@asi.com&gt; wrote:

Sometimes a cleaning is all that's needed - I just did ours about 2
weeks
ago. Take it apart and wash the case and membrane switch with soapy
water.
Then clean the circuit board pads with alcohol. Dry everything and
reassemble. Ours had some kind of oily film on most of it - who knows
what
kind of stuff was spilled on it. :-!

The other possibility is that the carbon pads on the circuit board are
worn
away enough to barely contact. If so, sometimes you can work a small
bit of
graphite into that area to provide some conduction.

WT


Thanks!


George
gearlnospamno@nospamcomcast.net

Disassembled the remote, found oily residue on the circuit board all
around the contacts for the Channel and Volume buttons, cleaned with
alcohol, reassembled and all is right with the world again . . .
Thanks!

The concensus last time this came up was that it the source was the
rubber/plastic and that it will return.

--- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ Home Page: http://www.repairfaq.org/
Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/
+Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/lasersam.htm
| Mirror Site Info: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/F_mirror.html

Important: The email address in this message header may no longer work. To
contact me, please use the Feedback Form at repairfaq.org. Thanks.

 

[Dave D]

"marion mcqueen" &lt;billy.mcqueen@ntlworld.com&gt; wrote in message
news:rgVXa.364$fC3.157587@newsfep2-gui.server.ntli.net...

i have an oldish vcr which has just died
pwr to internal fuse ok brigde rectifier ok, lotr ok but no
pwr at o/p of psu

the vcr is toshiba v-857b

cheers in advance
bly

Switchmode PSU? Check startup resistor. Replace all small electrolytic caps
in the PSU, especially those on the primary side. If that doesn't get it
working, replace all the other caps in the PSU.

Dave

 

[Randy]

"Sofie" &lt;sofie@olypen.com&gt; wrote in message news:&lt;vivsm497q6kh6b@corp.supernews.com&gt;...

Randy in Tennesee:
The question should not be "how old it is?" but rather, right before the
failure you described, was the picture nice and bright and clear? ..... and
were there any other problems?
If every thing else is OK, take it back to the shop that did the estimate
for you and get it repaired..... or take it to another shop for a 2nd
opinion.
You do not want to try just replacing the modules that the shop told you
were bad..... there will be other things that need to be checked, repaired
and adjusted once those modules, if they are really bad, are replaced.....
otherwise, the new modules could be damaged and then the repair shop price
will be higher. Most shops won't replace the expensive modules but rather,
they will usually fix the modules at a component level.... this will save
time, money, and the obvious searching time for replacement modules. Take
it to a shop for a proper and safe repair.
--
Best Regards,
Daniel Sofie
Electronics Supply &amp; Repair
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

Thanks for the response. I did find out the tv was a kv-32xbr15
instead of xbr10. Someone in Illinois did mention the same thing and
said he would repair my board or boards for $125.00 or $150.00 i
think. That i would pay the cost to ship the boards and insure and pay
the shipping back and insure. Maybe this is my best bet. What happened
was the tv would come on and it would go off(just the picture). Then
it would warm up and about 3 minutes the picture would be on and work
perfect and as long as i would leave it on it would stay on. Then as i
would turn it on it was staring to not come back up and on, the
picture. I could gently peck on the front at the bottom and the
picture would go on and off like it was a short. It would never stay
on. The picture the whole time was beautiful and bright. I have really
enjoyed the tv and it's brght picture. It was nice and bright when it
went out. I then turned the power on and listened to the tv(sound) and
thought the picture would come back. This happened over a two week
span. Then i could smell something burning it seemed and i turned it
off in which this time it was a delay on the tv turning off. I hope i
didn't damage anything else by trying to force it on again. Maybe that
would be the best way and propper way for me to get the whole board
working right and sending off to fix it.
Thanks,
Randy
Tennessee

 

[Stellijer]

More information about this:

It won't PLAY tapes, either. No static, nothing. Just black.

Please help. I only got one response thus far and it wasn't enough information
to help me.



Stellijer &lt;howapropos@hotmail.nospam.com&gt; wrote in message
news:SPKWa.24762$f%2.23107@fe05.atl2.webusenet.com...

A group I'm in just got a used full sized VHS camcorder.

It cosmetically looks great and seems to generally function (image in
viewfinder, tape moves as it should, seems to be working 100%) BUT when
viewing
the tape it supposedly recorded on, there's nothing on the tape. Not static
or
a black screen with an apparent tracking signal but NOTHING. It would appear
as
if the tape was erased but nothing recorded. It was a used tape and indeed
the
original signal had been wiped clean.

If I may assume for a moment that the camera WAS, indeed, in working condition
when it was shipped, what is likely wrong with it? Has anyone encountered a
problem similar to this before? Also importantly, can it be fixed reasonably
easily or should the group try to get its money back?

Please advise.

 

[Tweetldee]

"tanya" &lt;seeAddress@bot.tom&gt; wrote in message
news:3F302866.DDB3F701@bot.tom...

Sc0tt wrote:

tanya wrote:
X-posted
hello,
14 yOld 1.6L automatic
problems: when in gear (any) and NOT giving it gas (whether or not the
brake is on), it vibrates and sounds like it could stall (idle is just
~
1*10^3 or a bit less) this stops when one hits the gas petal.
does NOT occur in park or neutral.
also with radio, lights, etc. the vibrating INCREASES (when stopped)
i did <i think> a sortOf load test (testing voltage across the
battery)
and p.t. starting, voltage was 12.5 (cold engine) right when started,
it
went to 14.3 (+lights, +radio, + interior light, + ventilation = =
14.3
but with wipers ALSO went 14.2 (i guess that's no big deal) (with all
snip

Could you repost this with some text formatting, spelling, and
puntuation added?

I am not a grammar nazi, but your post is really hard to read. Split in
into some paragraphs and such if you want people to read it.

Scot

okay sorry...
14 year old car; automatic transmission, 1.6 liter engine

problem: when the car is in gear (drive, reverse, etc.) and stopped it
vibrates until one pushes the gas pedal... This does NOT occur while in
neutral or when in park.
It sounds as if it might stall and the idle is less than or equal to 1 X
1000
rpm.
when the radio is on and windshield wipers and i put the lights on while
the
car is in gear and stopped, the vibration increases plus the lights dim if
i
put turn on the ventilation.

i did a load test with the car cold and warm (before and after driving it)
cold
before starting, the voltmeter (on the battery) read 12.5 V.
starting it read 14.3 and adding (cumulatively) the lights, radio,
interior
light, ventilation fan, and the windShield wipers, it went to ~ 14.2
Then i turned all the above off (except the engine) and it stayed at 14.2

warm
then drove around for maybe 45 minutes and when the car was in park (at
home)
the voltmeter across the battery read 13.9.
(I did not turn off the car after driving it)
then adding back things cumulatively (as above), the voltage continued to
drop
(staying at 13.x) but when i added the ventilation i couldn't get a steady
reading on the battery -- it fluctuated from 13.1 - 13.4.

after all was off (aside from the engine) it read 13.9.
Just wonder whether if i drove it for a several hours would the voltage
continue to drop?
perhaps 13.9 is normal (when the engine is warm / hot)?
and whether an alternator should be keeping the battery at 14.x for at
least
45 minutes?
and how to tell whether the voltage regulator / alternator belt may be
involved.

sorry for the unClear post and hope this makes more sense
sincerely
Tanya


--
to reply:
userName: tjtmd
domain: attglobal.net
and separate the 2 words with the at sign

That's much better. THANKS !!!
Normally, a good battery and a normally operating alternator will maintain
approximately 14.4 volts under fast idle, with any load that is within the
output rating of the alternator. The lower the temperature, the higher the
output voltage. Under normal idle, the voltage will probably drop to around
13.8 volts, but certainly not down to 13.1 volts. You definitely have a
problem there.
Since your voltage is fluctuating so much, you could have either of three
problems, as you questioned in your post. Bad battery, bad alternator or
bad regulator. The best way to diagnose the actual problem is by:
(1) performing a load test on the battery with the engine off. A parts
store can do this test for you, usually a free service.
(2) taking the alternator to a parts store and have them test it. This is
also usually a free service.
(3) elimination of (1) and (2) as the problem.

The fact that your engine is running rough indicates a different problem,
probably unrelated to the charging system. As was suggested by another
poster, check your plugs, distributor cap, plug wires, and don't forget the
ignition coil. In other words, the engine may just need a tune-up. I have
had two coils to go bad and they both caused very rough idle.

 

[Arthur Jernberg]

Contact your JVC service department and ask if there are any mods. The unit
should be under Manufacturer Warrenty. Probably something in the AKB or
video protect ckts. or even a software update.
&lt;bazinet@movie-list.com&gt; wrote in message
news:eee2875f.0308051615.1fa23f05@posting.google.com...

Hopefully someone can shed some light on this as I haven't seen it
posted anywhere.

I have a AV-48WP30 which is working fine except for one thing...

While watching DVD's, anytime the screen flashes (such as a picture
being taken, or strobe light, etc.) the TV tends to go black for a
second and/or re-selects the Input that I'm currently on. This started
happening a few months after I got it, and it's becoming a huge pain
in the *ss.

Anyone know what I'm taking about?

 

[Arthur Jernberg]

1: Is the set covered by a Best Buy Service Contract??
2: Did you originally purchase it from Best Buy??
3: Was the service supplied by Best Buy because you can answer yes to the
first 2 questions??
If so then you may have recourse against them, if not them you may want to
contact Toshiba directly and ask them to assist in servicing their product.
Their consumer relations are really not a bunch of ogres. The manufacturer
customer's relations are normally a very good source of information and
resolution in these fustrating cases. They may even direct you to an
appropiate subsitute replacment that will function in your particular set.
"J. Bryan Wehrenberg" &lt;bryan@hcss.com&gt; wrote in message
news:bgomta$qtkn5$1@ID-135017.news.uni-berlin.de...

I have a Toshiba CF35F40 that the tuner has gone bad on. I've had a Best
Buy repairman out to look at it and he determined that was the cause.
However, after about a year he has repeatedly told me that the part is on
back order through Best Buy and suggested I go through another method to
obtain the part. I was able to order the part through Sears and will
have
it in a few days. Sears will charge me a minimum of $96 to come out and
put
the new tuner in (it may be more, they haven't come out yet.)

My question is: how hard is it to replace the tuner on this unit if anyone
is familiar with this particular model or how hard is it in general to
replace the tuner? I've done a little research and there can be some
scary
electricity in the back of a TV in certain places and I don't want to fry
myself to save a $100. However, if it is a simple solder or two around
nothing dangerous, I'm willing to give it a shot (hey, it's broken already
right?) I'm used to repairing computers at the component level but the
power supplies on those things will only give you a nasty shock, not kill
you (at least they haven't killed me yet.)

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
J. Bryan Wehrenberg

 

[Gordon Burditt]

President Bush announced today that he is giving North Korea 1 week
to cease construction of a new DVD player factory. This is in
reaction to the recent death of half of the population of New York
City when a suicide bomber dropped a battery-powered DVD player off
of the visitor's area at the top of the Empire State Building. He
has assured the North Korean government that if they do not cooperate,
he will respond with carpet-bombing using high-quality Japanese
audio/visual home electronics.

FatherLand Security announced today that it was raising the threat
level yet again, as it has information that the terrorist organization
RIAA is trying to mass produce another Madonna music video.

The United Nations has announced that it has ceased all attempts
at finding survivors in the Dead Zone (formerly known as the Middle
East, Israel, North Africa, Eastern Europe, and parts of the former
Soviet Union). None of the search teams have returned. Al Queda was
apparently trying to assemble a missile to fire at Israel, and three
DVD players reached critical mass, destroying a good chunk of Earth.

Gordon L. Burditt

 

[Henry Mydlarz]

We have some highly intellectuall media reporters here in OZ. I can see this
story making the headlines.....

Henry

"JWB" &lt;jwbremoveme3333@excite.com&gt; wrote in message
news:mgCXa.20616$gU6.3195217@twister.nyc.rr.com...

"Rick" &lt;me@privacy.net&gt; wrote in message
news:bgmcm3$q6fkk$1@ID-82690.news.uni-berlin.de...
Happens every fucking summer. Millions of kiddies in desperate need
of parental guidance, and a social life.

Yea, but to be honest, it's funny to see how many sheep fall for it.

JWB


"blcker" &lt;ohno@nospam.com&gt; wrote in message
news:scyXa.6778$8N.522037@twister.socal.rr.com...
Sheeesh! Let's file this with the Bonsai Kitty story.


"Jeeters" &lt;noham@nospam.com&gt; wrote in message
newsrudnQEtTI10NbOiXTWJlg@giganews.com...
For those that believe this, I got some prime swamp land for ya.

 

[Karl S]

On Tue, 05 Aug 2003 20:10:29 GMT, "Dave C."
&lt;spammersdie@slowlyandpainfully.com&gt; wrote:

Holy shit, you need to go back to school. I work with devices which
DELIBERATELY emit laser beams. These devices are at least 1000 times as
strong as the lasers used in DVD players. I regularly walk right through
many criss-crossed laser beams, multiple times per day.

Apparently they have destroyed the part of your brain that detects
humor.

 

[Impmon]

On Tue, 5 Aug 2003 14:38:29 -0400, "Jeeters" &lt;noham@nospam.com&gt; typed:

Besides, I once took a zap from about 10K volts worth of capacitors once
when building a science fair project and I lived to tell about it. Knocked
me to the floor on my butt, though! (Actually, I fell backwards onto the
cat's scratching post.)

Try dealing with a 19" color TV CRT. It packs 30Kv even when it's not
in use. I had the misfortune of finding how nasty that shock can be (the
CRT wasn't even connected at all) and I must have spent the next 4 or 5
days getting my hair back down.

You know what electricians say? "It's not the volts that matter, it's the
amps!"

Even amps don't kill. An 11 year old boy was struck by lightening in
Michigan a few days ago and still walked away with only singed hair and
scar from his neck to his navel. Lighting bolt carries something like
10,000 amps and several thousands volt.
--
All viruses and spams are automatically removed by my ISP before
reaching my inbox.

 

[Impmon]

On Tue, 05 Aug 2003 20:10:29 GMT, "Dave C."
&lt;spammersdie@slowlyandpainfully.com&gt; typed:

Holy shit, you need to go back to school.
[snip]

I think you're missing something. It's old but I have something that
can help you: http://personalpages.tds.net/~wilykat/setuphumour.gif
--
All viruses and spams are automatically removed by my ISP before
reaching my inbox.

 

[alanjstepney]

Get the motor with its control module, and with minimal modification it will
make an excellent
variable speed motor for a lathe.
Been using one on my ML7 for years and it is very useful.
--
alan@alanjstepney.free-online.co.uk

www.alanstepney.info
Model Engineering, Steam Engine, and Railway technical pages.

Later machines needed a lot more power for the high speed spin
cycles and these used high speed series wound commutator motors
because these can deliver much more power (1/2 to 1Hp short term
rated) for a given size and cost. The natural speed regulation of
series wound machines is inherently poor and electronic control is
essential for washing machine service. While crude form of speed
control is possible by sensing the back EMF of the motor this is not
good enough for the wide range of speed and loads needed for the
wash/spin cycles. Because of this pretty well all motors are fitted
with a "tacho" (tachometer) which is a very small (and very crude!) AC
generator which produces an electrical output directly proportional to
speed. A closed loop electronic speed control is used to adjust the
power input to the motor until it delivers the the desired speed
sensed by the tacho output.

Tacho output voltage or tacho output frequency can be used
to sense motor speed. Early controllers used discrete transistors and
a triac output. Later boards integrated most of the control functions
into a single IC - Motorola TDA1085C is typical.

Jim

 

[Jeremy D. Grotte]

Sounds to me like the IAC motor is jammed or the pintle on the IAC is coked
up and not moving. 14 year old car means a 1989 model. Most cars back then
had ECM's, most had IAC's.
Quick way to check; let the car idle in park with nothing on. Pump the
brakes fast (assuming you've got power brakes), which in effect simulates a
vacuum leak. The rev's should drop initially then come back up. If the
rev's only drop (leaning out) or only go up (leaning out due to a rich
mixture) then the IAC isn't compensating. And you could also pull a vacuum
line off. Just don't pull off the one that goes to the MAP sensor (if
equipped). As soon as you pull it off the rev's should do the same thing as
pumping the brakes, only moreso.

Actually the fact that the vibration stops when you hit the brakes says the
IAC is working to me (some cars idle up a bit when you step on the brake
thinking you're about to move).

Everything you've described with the battery voltage and the alternator
sounds completely normal to me.

When's the last time this thing had a tune-up? Plugs, wires, cap/rotor (if
equipped)...did ya check the coils for primary/secondary resistance?

Do a quicky spark plug check. Fire up the car, warm it up, put on a heavy
pair of gloves, pull one plug wire at a time, note the rpm drop, replace the
plug wire. Check the plugs on the ones that didn't drop much rpm, hence not
adding much power to the engine.

Do a quicky spark plug wire check. Wait until it's dark outside, very dark.
Fire up the car, warm it up, open the hood (bonnet), follow the plug wires
with your eyes, only don't look directly at them, look just a bit below
them, sort of out of the corner of your eye (which is more sensitive to
light). Have somebody else put the car in gear with their foot on the brake
and rev it up just a little bit. Look for arcing or corona around the plug
wires or the distributor cap (if equipped) or coils. If you see one and
it's bright, chances are there's a problem there too.


"tanya" &lt;seeAddress@bot.tom&gt; wrote in message
news:3F302866.DDB3F701@bot.tom...

okay sorry...
14 year old car; automatic transmission, 1.6 liter engine

problem: when the car is in gear (drive, reverse, etc.) and stopped it
vibrates until one pushes the gas pedal... This does NOT occur while in
neutral or when in park.
It sounds as if it might stall and the idle is less than or equal to 1 X
1000
rpm.
when the radio is on and windshield wipers and i put the lights on while
the
car is in gear and stopped, the vibration increases plus the lights dim if
i
put turn on the ventilation.

i did a load test with the car cold and warm (before and after driving it)
cold
before starting, the voltmeter (on the battery) read 12.5 V.
starting it read 14.3 and adding (cumulatively) the lights, radio,
interior
light, ventilation fan, and the windShield wipers, it went to ~ 14.2
Then i turned all the above off (except the engine) and it stayed at 14.2

warm
then drove around for maybe 45 minutes and when the car was in park (at
home)
the voltmeter across the battery read 13.9.
(I did not turn off the car after driving it)
then adding back things cumulatively (as above), the voltage continued to
drop
(staying at 13.x) but when i added the ventilation i couldn't get a steady
reading on the battery -- it fluctuated from 13.1 - 13.4.

after all was off (aside from the engine) it read 13.9.
Just wonder whether if i drove it for a several hours would the voltage
continue to drop?
perhaps 13.9 is normal (when the engine is warm / hot)?
and whether an alternator should be keeping the battery at 14.x for at
least
45 minutes?
and how to tell whether the voltage regulator / alternator belt may be
involved.

 

[Don Klipstein]

In article &lt;bc41jv8hj07ncgb21girl8o6q868f1aeli@4ax.com&gt;, Impmon wrote:

On Tue, 5 Aug 2003 14:38:29 -0400, "Jeeters" &lt;noham@nospam.com&gt; typed:

You know what electricians say? "It's not the volts that matter, it's the
amps!"

Even amps don't kill. An 11 year old boy was struck by lightening in
Michigan a few days ago and still walked away with only singed hair and
scar from his neck to his navel. Lighting bolt carries something like
10,000 amps and several thousands volt.

Electrocution is unreliable, and is most likely when the current is
power-line-frequency or low-audio-frequency AC (or pulsating DC), and the
current is in the range of .1 to 1 amp and the shock goes through the
upper torso. This is what is most likely to cause ventricular
fibrillation, which is how most electrocution victims die. Beware that
currents outside the .1 to 1 amp range, although less likely to cause
ventricular fibrillation, can do so.
Cardiac arrest is another way to die from electric shock, but it happens
less easily than ventricular fibrillation does and is most favored by
higher currents around or over 1 amp. The heart is better at recovering
from shocks that paralyze it completely than it is at recovering from
shocks that trigger ventricular fibrillation.

Other ways to die from electric shock include breathing being paralyzed
(typically from prolonged shock through the brain or chest) or by injuries
caused by a "grand mal"-like seizure that a shock through the brain
(usually AC for at least a few cycles) may cause. People may die from a
non-lethal shock if involuntary muscle contractions or being startled
cause them to fall, stab themselves on nearby sharp objects or contact a
nearby source of a lethal shock.

How electric chairs work: The voltage is typically 2300 volts and the
current is many amps. If the condemned's heart is not shocked out of
commission, then the condemned dies from vital organs being cooked or by
breathing and the heart being paralyzed long enough to deprive the brain
of oxygen long enough to be unable to resume breathing when the shock is
ended. Other ways to kill someone from electrocution are unreliable,
possibly except for an electric chair with an EKG (to apply a shock when
its application is most likely to disrupt the heart's rhythm) or using
enough current to make someone explode. Beware that surviving electric
shocks can be similarly unreliable.

Back to lightning: Sometimes it can "spark around" what it hits if
the current multiplied by the target's resistance is a voltage high enough
to start a new path around the target. Obviously, someone conducting
enough current from a lightning strike to make this happen has a
significant (but short of 100%) chance of cardiac arrest.

- Don Klipstein (don@misty.com)

 

On 05 Aug 2003 19:08:16 -0400, Sam Goldwasser &lt;sam@saul.cis.upenn.edu&gt;
wrote:

pentagrid@yahoo.com writes:

On Wed, 30 Jul 2003 21:30:05 +0000 (UTC), "Tom Jacobs"
tomjacobs@lineone.net&gt; wrote:

Many of the early UK front loading washing machines used multi
winding squirrel cage capacitor start and run induction motors. These
had typically a high power (about 1/3HP) 2 pole winding for the spin
cycle and a low power (about 1/8 HP) 6 or 8 pole winding for low speed
wash cycle. Because these were induction motors the natural speed
regulation was quite good and electronic control was not needed.

Later machines needed a lot more power for the high speed spin
cycles and these used high speed series wound commutator motors
because these can deliver much more power (1/2 to 1Hp short term
rated) for a given size and cost.
SNIP

Sorry, don't take this as a criticism or anything more extreme but why
do European washers need so much more speed for the spin than American
machines? As far as I know, we are still happily using induction motors.
And, no it's not the difference between 50 and 60 Hz.

--- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ Home Page: http://www.repairfaq.org/
Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/
+Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/lasersam.htm
| Mirror Site Info: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/F_mirror.html

I know nothing about American front loaders but I would be
surprised if they are still using 60Hz induction motors as the
commutator motor solution delivers better performance at a lower cost.
In the UK climate which, much of the time is cold and wet (not at
present!), high spin speed is much appreciated as it gives a better
chance of getting your washing dry in a reasonable time.

Machines using series wound wound commutator motors are now
beginning to disappear as these are being replaced, first by permanent
magnet commutator motors and later by direct electronic drive
brushless motors.

Jim

 

[Bob Shuman]

Sofie explained why I don't think it is your alternator. The simple fact
that your battery is not discharging (no alternator idiot light) and the
voltage is above the minimum charging requirement coupled with no dead
battery (no reported trouble starting the vehicle) would seem to point to
some other problem.

What year, make, and model? What engine? Multi-port or throttle body fuel
injected? Old style ignition with points, rotor and cap, or new electronic
breakerless design?

When (miles and years?) was it last tuned and what parts were replaced at
that time?

Bob


"tanya" &lt;seeAddress@bot.tom&gt; wrote in message
news:3F30242B.3712F52A@bot.tom...

thank you very much for replying!
just to clarify it's normal for the battery to drop a volt while it is
being
driven?
(because when i left initially it had been at 14.2 or 14.3 and when i
returned
(and turned off the radio and everything else EXCEPT for the engine) the
voltmeter read 13.9 (before turning on the radio, lights etc.)
thanks again
sincerely
Tanya

Bob Shuman wrote:

Difficult to diagnose based on your description of the actual problem
(vibrating/nearly dies at idle under load), but from your description of
voltages at the battery before starting, after running with load, and
after
its charged, I would say your alternator appears to be operating as
designed.

Based on your description, I would suggest looking at the plugs, wires,
fuel
injectors, air filter, and possibly the throttle body if so equipped.

Good luck.
Bob