Toshiba TV29C90 problem; Image fades to black...

[R P McMurphy]

"bigmike" <bigmike@cornhusker.net> wrote in message
news:3f1443c3$0$24562$9a6e19ea@news.newshosting.com...
|
| "R P McMurphy" <redleadertwoREMOVE-TO-REPLY@ntlworld.com> wrote in message
| news:GEVQa.11952$nP.9935@newsfep4-winn.server.ntli.net...
| > Hi all! can you help me suss this problem out? it a Hitachi cpt2508
that
| > does not turn on....if you turn it on the standby light flashes once
and
| > then nothing. i have had it repaired once before and apparently these
| > models had a problem with poor resisters in the power supply. any
ideas?
| >
| > rpm
| >
| Power supply problems, most likely. Bad caps, and/or undersize power
| resistors that char the circuit board in those sets, and no longer make
| connection. Could be anyone of a hundred things actually.
|
|
apparently this board had problems with cap drying out and causing sets to
go dead. yes there are many chard pcb areas under resisters...will look
into this further. Cheers!

rpm

 

[Jerry Greenberg]

The spread spectrum system is a type of encryption, that makes
converstation or content very difficult to monitor using a scanner.
The voice signal is sent digitaly over an array of frequencies in
segments, or sent digitaly on one carrier, but split in to phase
shifted sements. In either case, there is a key value for the
tracking of the signals in order to decode them. The contents may
also be encryped in their content. There are different levels of
spread spectrum. http://www.sss-mag.com/G3RUH/ will give some basic
technical information about spread spectrum processes. Even with the
home type cordless phones using this system, it is very safe to give
out credit card numbers, and talk about personal things. A number of
years ago the spread spectrum system was limited to military use only.

As for the 900 mHz phones verses the 2.4 gHz phones, the 2.4 gHz units
may be suseptable to interferance if used near to a microwave oven,
and some types of computer systems. Normaly, I would not want to
mount the base unit of any phone within about 3 to 5 feet of a TV set,
microwave oven, or computer. Using the handset to within about 2 feet
to a microwave oven may produce some interference in the phone.

The 2.4 gHz phone will normaly have more range for the same amount of
power than the lower frequency phones. They are more expensive, and
the low cost ones are generaly not very good. The 900 mHz phone is a
better value if you want to stay in a low budget type of phone.

As for the 2.4 gHz units, the battery in the handset tends to not last
as long as the lower frequency phones when in use. These generaly draw
about 20% to 30% more power from the battery when in use. Therefore,
there is less talk time. During standby, the power consumption may be
about 10% more. This is why the people say they can talk longer on
the 900 mHz units.

If the battery is allowed to run down about once or twice a month this
is good for the battery, and it will not have the tendancy to easily
develope battery memory problems. On the average, the cordless phone
batteries will last about 2 to 3 years, if they are let to cycle down
from time to time. If you keep topping up the batteries all the time,
or leave them on charge constently, it will wear them out faster.
Many of these phones do not have very high quality charge regulation,
and after the battery is on charge for too long, it may be slightly
over heated. The expression we use is the customer is "Frying The
Battery".

In the cordless phones, from what I can see from the point of view of
servicing a few, and using a number of models, I found the Panasonic
units to be excellent. Some models of the Seimens are also excellent.
The Sony ones are also very good. I found the lower cost ones to
generaly be more noisy, and more suseptable to have fadeout, or less
stability. There are some very good models made by V-Tech, GE, and a
few others, but their pricing comes close to the previously mentioned
more expensive names.

In any model, it is good to have spread spectrum, or some type of
encryption. This will ensure that the conversation on the phone is
private. There are many sophisticated scanners on the market that
anyone with some extra dollars can purchase. Your cordless phone
range is limited to itself due to the lower cost of the technology
employed. You would be very surprised to know how far it is really
radiating if you were to use a good quality scanner.

Some of these phones can be picked up by a scanner as far as several
miles away! It is more comfortable to know that when someone tunes in
your phone on a scanner, all they can hear is a bunch of data noise,
and not a conversation, or not to be able to connect up an A/D
converter of some type and start to listen to what you are talking
about! For privacy, encryption, or at least spread spectrum is a must!

As for safety, all phones sold in the UK, EC countries, USA, Canada,
and many other associated countries must meet very strict
specifications for radiation from radio frequency emissions, and
electrical safety.

Some of the frequency bands are just above or below cell phone
carriers, and or amature radio bands. There normaly should not be any
interference, because the newer phones are generaly designed with
intelligent frequency selection, unlike the much older models. They
are in their own alocation of freuquency bands. They also should not
interfere with each other.

At this time, I would think that the 5.1 gHz phones are not such a
good investment, unless you specificly have a use for this level of
cordless phone. It is supposed to be a cut better than the 2.4 gHz
phone, and should not have any interference from microwave ovens, and
or the TV set, or even the computer. But, the cost is very high at
this time for the small difference.

Jerry Greenberg
http://www.zoom-one.com

--


lcoe <lcoe@c1932201-a.attbi.com> wrote in message news:<uATQa.69453$Ph3.7172@sccrnsc04>...

Followup-To: sci.electronics.repair, also, FF:2lbs of TacoBell Condiments (you haul ;-)
.........

i am looking at some of the newer Uniden offerings w/two handsets and
wonder how much/if i will gain anything over my current setup which
actually works well(900Mhz SS Vtech) these past 5yrs. the batteries
are finally dying so have an excuse.

there is a plethora of new frequencies, with some advantages to each,
including 2.4, 2.4DSS, 2.4DEST, 5.4 in about that order of cost/performance.

so the Question: the range maybe less on 2.4 and i do _not_ have a problem
w/interference, does it make sense to make just one step up? ALSO, does
Spread Spectrum mean "digital handset" link by definition? if yes, i would
be going back to analog w/2.4Ghz.

Thanks (!) to my favorite (3) ng's, --Loren

 

[Michael Black]

TCS (The.Central.Scrutinizer@p.o.b.o.x.com) writes:

html><input type crash></html
begin On Tue, 15 Jul 2003 07:33:32 GMT, gothika <gothika@earthlink.net> wrote:

I agree, having idiots on the sales floor is extremely annoying.
However if the sign out on hte the front of the store says Radio
Shack, a name that for many years was synonomous with electronics
part, then you damn well ought to have PARTS!
I can remember when they actually had just about any part or component
you could want for home electronics repair or hobby work.

When was that? Even in the mid 70's, radio shack was pretty much
worthless for repairs or hobby work. I don't think RS has ever had
a selection of more than 20 integrated circuits.

People still seem to be thinking in terms of Radio Shack before Tandy
bought it. It was a small regional chain in the Boston area.

But that was over thirty years ago, maybe more like forty years.

Michael

 

[glasnostJDC]

Thanks for the education and for the neat link to the braintwister.

-glasnostJDC

"t.hoehler" <t.hoehler@insightbb.com> wrote in message
news:1TVPa.42588$wk6.10150@rwcrnsc52.ops.asp.att.net...

Here's my personal favorite braintwister:
http://www-bcs.mit.edu/people/adelson/checkershadow_illusion.html

The boxes marked A and B are the same color. Yes they
really are!

Wow, this IS a good one! The explanation is interesting too. It gives
good
insight into how highly developed our visual system is.

Regards,
Tom

 

[Innes Cathcart]

I've looked around on JVC's website, nothing found so far. The unit is
rather "old", manufactured in 1993. Somebody out there has one though, or
many people I'm sure, I'm just trying to find them... Thanks.

Innes

"bigmike" <bigmike@cornhusker.net> wrote in message
news:3f144412$0$24547$9a6e19ea@news.newshosting.com...

Have you checked JVC's website for parts information?

"Innes Cathcart" <innescathcart@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:LoVQa.74040$sI91.62100@news04.bloor.is.net.cable.rogers.com...
Hi,

If anyone has the JVC XL-MK500 (6 disc auto changer for car), I would
greatly appreciate information pertaining to the control cable that runs
from this unit to a suitable head unit. Thanks.

--
Innes


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[Sofie]

Sanyo sells Sanyo parts.........
Regional office nearest to you
SFS Corporation (Sanyo)
Norcross, GA
770-925-8900
in case you can't reach them in GA, their
other regional office numbers are
IL 630-775-1414
NJ 201-641-3000
--
Best Regards,
Daniel Sofie
Electronics Supply & Repair
----------------------------------------


"Gerald K4NHN" <gcromer@usit.net> wrote in message
news:Co3Ra.3919$Mc.353348@newsread1.prod.itd.earthlink.net...

I'm trying to find a couple of drive belts for a Sanyo AM, FM, SW radio.
These are about 1/8" wide and about 5" around the outside and has 41
teeth
made into it.

Radio Model 16HA-862P

I've looked at many web pages and haven't found anything close. I don't
think an O-ring will work here.

Anyone know any place that sells Sanyo radio parts.

Gerald K4NHN
Cayce, SC

 

[Sofie]

Usually on that size of CRT the tilt is not much more that 1/4 to 1/2 inch
at the very most...... and usually is not even an issue with CRT size less
than 32 inches.
Depending on the MODEL NUMBER "whose number" you forgot, this may or may not
be difficult for a shop technician to adjust for you. In the future,
whenever you post a technical question always include the MODEL NUMBER......
without it, all of us at this end of you posting are blind.... Samsung has
built lots and lots of different models and obviously they are not all built
the same way..... so all you will get are guesses.
--
Best Regards,
Daniel Sofie
Electronics Supply & Repair
------------------------------


"Ken Arromdee" <arromdee@violet.rahul.net> wrote in message
news:bf2hoq$mun$1@blue.rahul.net...

My TV picture is tilted. (It's a 25 inch Samsung whose model number I
forget).
It's my understanding that this is caused by the Earth's magnetic field,
and
indeed I can fix it by rotating the set, but I prefer the TV in the
position
it is. Is there anything I can do to help that does not involve taking
the
TV to a repair shop? (I already tried the service menu. There isn't a
tilt
control in it.)
--
Ken Arromdee / arromdee@rahul.net / http://www.rahul.net/arromdee

"How pleasant it would be if only we lived a hundred years ago when it was
easy to get servants."
"It would be horrible... We'd be the servants." -- Isaac Asimov

 

[Grumpy OM]

<stuff deleted>

I was in the business for 50 years. Used to fix stuff for friends
and neighbors. Too many ingrates, etc. Now I tell them my liability
insurance doesn't cover it and I have too much to lose to take a
chance playing Mister Niceguy. I've been screwed doing it.

Grumpy OM

 

[Sofie]

Sharon Leigh:
Follow the troubleshooting advice I posted regarding the Marantz (it has a
static problem in the LEFT channel)..... first, look for faulty solder
connections, especially around the high heat producing components ... if
that is not the problem then with an oscilloscope and a test signal you
should be able to trace the problem to the faulty components (usually leaky
semiconductors or electrolytics) or problem area of the circuitry. As I
stated in that reply post.... the nice thing about working on stereo
equipment is that you have an identical and properly working LEFT channel
next to the faulty (static) RIGHT channel..... it doesn't get any better
than this.
If, after reading this, you are still not certain how to proceed then you
might be best advise to have a service shop do the repairs for you. There
are usually some shops that will do more of this kind of work than
others.... ask around.

****here is a copy of my above mentioned posting:
First, look for cracked, cold, or otherwise faulty
solder connections near and around the high heat
producing components..... especially in the left
channel circuitry. Since the static is almost
constant you should be able to trace it to a
fairly specific area of the left channel circuitry....
.....an oscilloscope should allow you to easily
find the static problem stage.... start at the
preamp and work your way to the power output
stage. Could be leaky semiconductors or
electrolytics anywhere in the chain.....
The nice thing about working on stereo equipment
is that you have an identical channel to compare
the suspected faulty circuitry with.
--
Best Regards,
Daniel Sofie
Electronics Supply & Repair
-----------------------------



"Sharon Leigh" <sleigh@aol.com> wrote in message
news:VA4Ra.1371$KZ.745283@news1.news.adelphia.net...

I was just reading the post about the marantz receiver static problem.
Mine's slightly different, in that it goes away when I turn the balance
all
the way left, and my headphones work fine. I cleaned every conceivable
contact and circuit and still have the static. The receiver's 32 years old
so I am suspecting something has died or fried along the way. anyone have
any ideas?

 

[Dmitry Razumov]

Try here www.electronicsrepair.net

"Gerard Baldwin" <S_ger@_Pee.ucd_A.ie_M> ???????/???????? ? ????????
?????????: news:newscache$03v1ih$06p$1@weblab.ucd.ie...

I'm looking for a service manual for a mitsubishi ct-25av1 tv
or failing that a datashhet for an xc44031 or mc44031 chip.

Any help much appreciated

Ger

 

[Ken Arromdee]

In article <vh9jmdh34rg082@corp.supernews.com>, Sofie <sofie@olypen.com> wrote:

Usually on that size of CRT the tilt is not much more that 1/4 to 1/2 inch
at the very most...... and usually is not even an issue with CRT size less
than 32 inches.
Depending on the MODEL NUMBER "whose number" you forgot, this may or may not
be difficult for a shop technician to adjust for you. In the future,
whenever you post a technical question always include the MODEL NUMBER......
without it, all of us at this end of you posting are blind.... Samsung has
built lots and lots of different models and obviously they are not all built
the same way..... so all you will get are guesses.

Comparing the various TV types in the manual to what I have, it seems to be
a TXJ2566. There's no model number on the TV itself.

The tilt is only around a half inch, but is rather noticeable when playing
video games, since they have horizontal lines, scores, etc. on the screen.
--
Ken Arromdee / arromdee@rahul.net / http://www.rahul.net/arromdee

"How pleasant it would be if only we lived a hundred years ago when it was
easy to get servants."
"It would be horrible... We'd be the servants." -- Isaac Asimov

 

[bigmike]

"Sharon Leigh" <sleigh@aol.com> wrote in message
news:VA4Ra.1371$KZ.745283@news1.news.adelphia.net...

I was just reading the post about the marantz receiver static problem.
Mine's slightly different, in that it goes away when I turn the balance
all
the way left, and my headphones work fine. I cleaned every conceivable
contact and circuit and still have the static. The receiver's 32 years old
so I am suspecting something has died or fried along the way. anyone have
any ideas?

Lot's of possibilities. Dirty or worn speaker switch contacts, bad relay
(if the old amp uses one) contacts, dried up caps, leaky transistors.
Headphones require very little power to produce sound, so some problems in
the output stage might not show up when using them. By the way, do you have
sound through the bad channel along with the static, or just static?

 

[Jerry G.]

I was under the impression that the TS series was too old to have
service codes. In anycase, the twist adjustments in most of these sets
is not a service menu option. The procedure is to loosen the deflection
yoke, and turn it in the appropriate direction. After doing this,
sometimes the convergence and purity will have to be aligned. You will
need the proper training, and test pattern generator to do the full
setup.

Also, these adjustments must be done with the power on. I would suggest
you call a service technician that is experienced with this type of
procedure.

--

Greetings,

Jerry Greenberg GLG Technologies GLG
==============================================
WebPage http://www.zoom-one.com
Electronics http://www.zoom-one.com/electron.htm
Instruments http://www.zoom-one.com/glgtech.htm
==============================================
"Pigs on the Wing Productions" <admin@NOSPAMpigs-on-the-wing.com> wrote
in message news:ga59hvgcpeeuca9rail7fmj2cuis5jl1bb@4ax.com...
I have a used Sony TV KV-20TS29. The screen is slighty tilted to the
left. I have the code to access the service settings and need to know
what setting adjusts the tilt and what the factory settings are for
the TV.

Steve

 

Number 1 kinda sounds more like an engine timing problem than just a
timing belt. Like Mike said, I'm assuming the "cam shaft cable" is
the timing belt. Timing belts can get loose and affect engine timing,
but won't usually cause loss of acceleration to the degree you're
saying. If they're cracked and original, then I'd get them replaced.
In many cars, when the timing belt goes, the engine goes as well due
to valves and pistions colliding. Timing belt repairs vary greatly
with vehicle. For my Maxima, the engine has to be pulled to replace
the 25$ belts, resulting in a 550$ charge. I kinda doubt the belts
are causing the acceleration problem, but if they aren't replaced the
engine will probably blow out when the belts do. Engine timing
however (assuming this car uses a distributor system) greatly affects
acceleration. I would get the belts replaced, timing checked, spark
plugs and wires replaced if need be. I'm not sure on your experience
with cars, most older cars can be timed relatively easily with a
timing light and a Hayne's manual for the correct procedure, or a shop
should be able to do it relatively inexpensively if you're not a
DIY'er.
As for number 2, this is kind of backwards from typical problems are.
The most common problem in cooling systems is a stuck open thermostat,
which makes the car take forever (sometimes indefinantely) to warm up
fully... If it's warming up quickly then it's probably not a
thermostat problem. If they're electric fans, they may be computer
controlled. Probably the easiest way to test them is just let the car
idle.. after probably 5-8 minutes, the fans should turn on. The car
should jump up to a slightly higher than normal temperature, the fans
will turn on, the temp will go down, the fans will turn off, this is
normal operation. If you have the patence, let the car idle for a
half hour. If it overheats in this time, the fans don't work. If it
doesn't overheat, the fans work. And keep you hands and clothes away
from the belts and fans, they can do some damage...
Sorry if my post is kind of rambling (I'm drunk), if you want
clarification or more info just reply to the sci.electronics.repair
newsgroup, I check it usually once or twice a day.
On Mon, 14 Jul 2003 11:51:32 -0400, tanya <seeAddress@bot.tom> wrote:

hello,
X-posted
2 questions:
mitsubishi colt 1989
1. its current mechanic says that the ?camShaft? cables are the original
and are cracked and need to be rpl'd
just wonder whether this diagnosis could account for the car NOT
accelerating, needing to use 2nd gear vs. drive almost all the time
(even down hill) (it's an automatic) vibrating in reverse and 2nd gear?
or where i can find out more about the camShaft (if in fact this car
even has it

2. same car: i've learned (or heard) that fans are supposed to start
turning to help cool the engine... according to an AAA
jumpStarter/tower...
would anyone know whether they should start turning when the car is
idling or the gauge is warm (not hot)
symptom here is that the car heats up in minutes (and did so in Winter)
but did not used to heat up for ages (iow it used to take ~ 15' to warm
up)
before driving it onto the highWay is there a test for the fans?
thank you very much in advance
and to those of you who were kind enough to answer my post a while back
on the dead battery thank you (the thread had expired)
and if anyone cares, the battery *was* a lemon...
THANK YOU IN ADVANCE!

 

[Mike CJ]

"Andre" <testing_h@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:2c2cf14c.0307151106.36627707@posting.google.com...

"Chris F." <zappyman@nospam.com> wrote in message
news:<HuUQa.7179$jL2.864362@ursa-nb00s0.nbnet.nb.ca>...
Best of luck, and try not to get discouraged in these difficult times.

(snippage)

One good thing the EU and/or UK govt. could do is to pass a law to
*require* all electronic equipment to be recycled down to the nuts and
bolts . All new equipment sold has a 10% sales tax added to pay for
proper recycling facilities , *with the tax cut to 2% if it is
specifically designed to be repairable and recyclable* .

In addition, any company that repairs consumer equipment should be
able to apply for a grant to cover running costs etc . Should keep
things ticking over .

-Andre

How do you decide if something is recyclable?
Mike.



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[Mike CJ]

"Sofie" <sofie@olypen.com> wrote in message
news:vh8lrlp0rl3k12@corp.supernews.com...

geeeze...... not another tax or government fee, they never go away or go
down, they just keep being enacted and increased..... there are other ways
to do this...... look at the automobile junk yard business, the recyclers
actually pay for the junk. Soon there will be a tax on breathing, or on
eating or on sex because of all the community resources that are involved.
--
Best Regards,
Daniel Sofie
Electronics Supply & Repair
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

I know that they would like to tax all the nice weather we've been getting.

Mike.



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[dave]

You might be interested in the book "Electronic Surveillance devices"
By Paul Brookes (Newnes ISBN 0-7506-5199-7)

Normal line measuremnts: On hook = 48V, Off hook = 12V
Series inserted device: On hook = 24V, Off hook = 12V
Parallel insrted device: On hook < 48V, Off hook < 12V


gothika <gothika@earthlink.net> wrote in message news:<mt87hvstbdi82h7do6qvo8msvmo543ggtd@4ax.com>...

I need to run a sweep on my phone lines to detect a tap.
What is available in the retail market these days for doing that?
Or is it possible to build something homebrew, say something like a
wheatstone bridge for measuring field resistances?(Know that's how it
was done years ago.)
The tap is going to be a physical one somewhere on the residential
side of the line as I've had the phone company out to check
connections and everything is clean on the feedin side.
The patch in is going to be somewhere in the walls or under the house.
Any info would be greatly appreciated.

 

[Bill Webb]

What really bugs me is that it almost seems like they go out of their
way to hire people who lack knowledge or even interest in anything
remotely electronic. A few years back I had just finished Year 1 of
college for a BSEE and needed some cash. There were no less than 3 Radio
Shacks within a short drive of my house with huge can't-miss-it NOW
HIRING signs in the windows. I of course noted in my resume my
familiarity with electronics and all the related hoohah..."I could even
help customers with design equations"...none of them even bothered to
call back. A year down the road, it comes as little surprise that I come
in looking for (Hello Sir, may I help you find something? Yes, I
need...) a photodiode... <blank stare> ... light detector ... <blank
stare> ... light sensor ... <blank stare> .... small parts. "On the back
wall, far left." Close enough...

Chris wrote:

Yeah but it doesn't take much to familarize yourself to what you sell. You
don't need to be a tech or even knowledgable in electronics. Just know the
product line. If I need a power supply then just tell me where abouts I can
find them. Don't tell me they aren't sold there. Now if I asked for a 120VAC
to 12VDC AC adapter rated at 600mA and 11W well then I can understand. This
really isn't rocket science.

"Sofie" <sofie@olypen.com> wrote in message
news:vgm9hievobgr9f@corp.supernews.com...

Michael Black:
I agree.
Would any of the electronic knowledgeable people in this thread go to work
for Radio Shack or any other retail store as a counter clerk???? If you
are out of work then great, but then you should be looking for a job with
the appropriate pay the fits your skill level. Just go to any retail

store

that has minimum wage clerks.... this is usually the case but not always.
Go to your local KMart or WalMart..... the minimum wage clerks are just
about useless.... if you can find a department manager you can get better
assistance ..... if you can find them at all.
Now certainly Radio Shack could pay a lot more for better qualified clerks
but most certainly the prices in the store would go up and the sales would
go down..... not a good combination. Again, the market place is price
driven, the customer wants to pay as little as possible, and that is what
they get.
--
Best Regards,
Daniel Sofie
Electronics Supply & Repair
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

 

[Mark]

testing_h@yahoo.com (Andre) wrote in message news:<2c2cf14c.0307151106.36627707@posting.google.com>...

One good thing the EU and/or UK govt. could do is to pass a law to
*require* all electronic equipment to be recycled down to the nuts and
bolts .

Sadly, that does sound just like the kind of moronic law that the EU
would pass, and that the UK government would be stupid enough to vote
into law.

All new equipment sold has a 10% sales tax added to pay for
proper recycling facilities , *with the tax cut to 2% if it is
specifically designed to be repairable and recyclable* .

Ah, just what we need, to pay even more of our income to the EU in
another stupid "green" tax... and the extra cost of making hardware
"repairable" is likely to more than eat up any 8% saving on tax.

How exactly are you going to "recycle" that 8086 PC? Who is going to
want any component from it, except maybe NASA trying to keep some
twenty year old spacecraft flying? How are you going to repair it if
it fails? Intel aren't going to build more chips just to keep
"repairable" PCs running.

Problematic as it is in many respects, as more and more discrete
components are replaced by custom ICs, electronics has become
increasingly difficult to repair: a chip either works or it doesn't,
and if it doesn't you either replace it, if they're still manufactured
and still available, or throw away the hardware. Telling people that
they must greatly increase the cost of their hardware and probably
greatly reduce the reliability by building it from discrete components
that can be replaced is just silly.

Mark

 

[Arthur Jernberg]

You can rotate the yoke to adjust the "tilt" to your preference. However,
when and if you relocate the set it again will have a noticble tilt
requiring another adjustment. BTW if you are not familiar with sevicing tv
sets, don't do it!!
"Ken Arromdee" <arromdee@violet.rahul.net> wrote in message
news:bf2hoq$mun$1@blue.rahul.net...

My TV picture is tilted. (It's a 25 inch Samsung whose model number I
forget).
It's my understanding that this is caused by the Earth's magnetic field,
and
indeed I can fix it by rotating the set, but I prefer the TV in the
position
it is. Is there anything I can do to help that does not involve taking
the
TV to a repair shop? (I already tried the service menu. There isn't a
tilt
control in it.)
--
Ken Arromdee / arromdee@rahul.net / http://www.rahul.net/arromdee

"How pleasant it would be if only we lived a hundred years ago when it was
easy to get servants."
"It would be horrible... We'd be the servants." -- Isaac Asimov