Toshiba TV29C90 problem; Image fades to black...

[gothika]

Had a tech from the phone company come out and check the box, no taps
there as well as the nearest box down the street.(The guy whose
tapping my line is a phone technician.)
We've determined he's tapped in on the residential side as we share a
wall.
I'm going to restring new wire to the box on the property leaving the
old lines dead.
I plan to run it through metal conduit to eleminate any use of passive
taps.(high impedance pickup coils etc...)
In your opinion would this work?
I'm also going to lock up the junction box.(I've go an ok from bell on
this as I'm also the caretaker for these apartments.)
The Bell guy disconnected our line and put us on a new block, though
I'm still getting the noise on the line.(constant clicking as if
someone is trying to hang up a reciever, the prick does this every
time I try and talk with the sheriffs department or the phone company.
And yes the Bell tech checked and we have no bad wiring or anything to
account for theis noise.)
Andyes I know about the Government, I used to work for them. I know
what they are capable of, never mind the loss of constitutional rights
to privacy due to the patriot act.
Thanks for the imput, I'd like to hear more on what I could do.


On Tuesday, 15 Jul 2003 08:56:22 -500, "Asimov"
<warpcastgate@-removethis-bbs.juxtaposition.dynip.com> wrote:

"gothika" wrote to "All" (15 Jul 03 06:47:23)
--- on the topic of "detecting phone taps?"

If it is the government it doesn't need a tap! They can/do record your
conversations right off the phone company's computer using a court order
(or not!). If you have a tap (Pvt.I.) it implies the information is
transmitted elsewhere and a "sniffer" will find the radio emissions.
However, the tap is more likely to be at the junction box down the
street or up on the pole where no b&e is required. Good luck.

go> From: gothika <gothika@earthlink.net

go> I need to run a sweep on my phone lines to detect a tap.
go> What is available in the retail market these days for doing that?
go> Or is it possible to build something homebrew, say something like a
go> wheatstone bridge for measuring field resistances?(Know that's how it
go> was done years ago.)
go> The tap is going to be a physical one somewhere on the residential
go> side of the line as I've had the phone company out to check
go> connections and everything is clean on the feedin side.
go> The patch in is going to be somewhere in the walls or under the house.
go> Any info would be greatly appreciated.


... This message transmitted on 100% recycled photons.

 

[gothika]

Corporate america would rather hire low iq monkeys than anyone who
might know what they're doing.
The key being "ignorant and controllable".

On Wed, 16 Jul 2003 05:22:09 -0500, Bill Webb <spam@cexx.org> wrote:

What really bugs me is that it almost seems like they go out of their
way to hire people who lack knowledge or even interest in anything
remotely electronic. A few years back I had just finished Year 1 of
college for a BSEE and needed some cash. There were no less than 3 Radio
Shacks within a short drive of my house with huge can't-miss-it NOW
HIRING signs in the windows. I of course noted in my resume my
familiarity with electronics and all the related hoohah..."I could even
help customers with design equations"...none of them even bothered to
call back. A year down the road, it comes as little surprise that I come
in looking for (Hello Sir, may I help you find something? Yes, I
need...) a photodiode... <blank stare> ... light detector ... <blank
stare> ... light sensor ... <blank stare> .... small parts. "On the back
wall, far left." Close enough...

Chris wrote:
Yeah but it doesn't take much to familarize yourself to what you sell. You
don't need to be a tech or even knowledgable in electronics. Just know the
product line. If I need a power supply then just tell me where abouts I can
find them. Don't tell me they aren't sold there. Now if I asked for a 120VAC
to 12VDC AC adapter rated at 600mA and 11W well then I can understand. This
really isn't rocket science.

"Sofie" <sofie@olypen.com> wrote in message
news:vgm9hievobgr9f@corp.supernews.com...

Michael Black:
I agree.
Would any of the electronic knowledgeable people in this thread go to work
for Radio Shack or any other retail store as a counter clerk???? If you
are out of work then great, but then you should be looking for a job with
the appropriate pay the fits your skill level. Just go to any retail

store

that has minimum wage clerks.... this is usually the case but not always.
Go to your local KMart or WalMart..... the minimum wage clerks are just
about useless.... if you can find a department manager you can get better
assistance ..... if you can find them at all.
Now certainly Radio Shack could pay a lot more for better qualified clerks
but most certainly the prices in the store would go up and the sales would
go down..... not a good combination. Again, the market place is price
driven, the customer wants to pay as little as possible, and that is what
they get.
--
Best Regards,
Daniel Sofie
Electronics Supply & Repair
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

 

[gothika]

Many thanks,I'll check it out.
On 16 Jul 2003 02:21:49 -0700, dave_bowlers@yahoo.co.uk (dave) wrote:

You might be interested in the book "Electronic Surveillance devices"
By Paul Brookes (Newnes ISBN 0-7506-5199-7)

Normal line measuremnts: On hook = 48V, Off hook = 12V
Series inserted device: On hook = 24V, Off hook = 12V
Parallel insrted device: On hook < 48V, Off hook < 12V


gothika <gothika@earthlink.net> wrote in message news:<mt87hvstbdi82h7do6qvo8msvmo543ggtd@4ax.com>...
I need to run a sweep on my phone lines to detect a tap.
What is available in the retail market these days for doing that?
Or is it possible to build something homebrew, say something like a
wheatstone bridge for measuring field resistances?(Know that's how it
was done years ago.)
The tap is going to be a physical one somewhere on the residential
side of the line as I've had the phone company out to check
connections and everything is clean on the feedin side.
The patch in is going to be somewhere in the walls or under the house.
Any info would be greatly appreciated.

 

[Guillaume]

Yes, those are very well known paradoxes.

They aren't in themselves uneducated at all: but the
interpretation we make of them can be.

 

On 16 Jul 2003 10:43:58 -0700, swechsler@bigfoot.com (Steve Wechsler)
wrote:

My laserjet 6L has a light (i.e. absence of toner) streak going down
the page, about 1.5 inches from the left side. The streak is about
1/16" wide. I've tried swapping in a new toner cartridge (confirmed
good on another printer) but it didn't solve the problem. Any ideas?

Thanks,

Steve

Possibly dusty scanner mirrors/lenses. Possibly a worn out transfer
roller. Check the transfer roller to see if there is a bild up of
paper dust or a worn part to the roller in the same place the streak
is on the paper.

Frank

 

[Shell]

You can try Add/Del channel manually.
1. find a remote control (universal is fine) should has ENTER button
2. find a dial swith on front panel maybe cutoff cable signal
3. find buttons (Add/Del) to add or remove channels.

Good luck!
Shell

 

[hoss]

this is good advice. thank you.


"bigmike" <bigmike@cornhusker.net> wrote in message
news:3f15be2c$0$24519$9a6e19ea@news.newshosting.com...

"hoss" <mulletman1968@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:bf485l$1mi$1@news-int.gatech.edu...
I have a sony trintiron 13'' TV. unfortunately I don't know the year.
for
some reason I can't get any channel above 47 on it while about 100
channels
are available when another TV is connected to the same cable. in
addition
the problem still remaines when the problematic sony is connected to
anyother cable. Of course I've tried reprogramming the TV but that
doesn't
work. it doesn't even receive the higher channels when they are
specifically
typed into the remote, just static.

I wonder if anyone has any advice on what the problem may be and how to
fix
it aside from getting a new TV.


Thank you very much,
Adam

That's probably as high as that set was designed to go. I do not know the
age of the set, but the older the set, the less cable channels they were
designed to receive. You can either use a cable box, or a cheaper route is
to use the tuner in any half way modern VCR to get the higher channels.
Then
just leave your tv on whatever channel the VCR is set to output at, and
change channels with the VCR tuner.

 

[Asimov]

"Jimmy" wrote to "All" (16 Jul 03 15:51:37)
--- on the topic of "Re: Bogen amp, 8417 tubes blow up, the whole story"

Ji> From: "Jimmy" <Gfender@carolina.rr.com>

Ji> "Shiva" <helpdesk@666.com> wrote in message
Ji> news:1K2Qa.5127$Y92.1251@nwrdny01.gnilink.net...

"George R. Gonzalez" <grg2@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:hYTPa.43358$N7.5224@sccrnsc03...
I seem to have stirred up a lot of controversy here. Let me summarize
the
responses:


(A) You're right in adding the "missing" snubbers, missing fuses,
Ji> missing
bias controls, missing bias filters, missing bias test points, missing
bias
set points, especially since the amp
is acting up, even after replacing capacitors, looking it over... etc.

(B) This Bogen amplifier is a part of our honorable tube heritage, the
ancient designers never made any design compromises, you should be
Ji> flogged
for even hinting of any possibility of cutting-corners by the engineers,
or
suggesting
that the amplifier could be improved with a few modern components and
techniques.

(C) Bogen made high-quality stuff that lasted forever.

(D) Bogen made some stuff that was marginal, that blew tubes a lot.

---

In other words, all over the spectrum, and a lot more heat than
illumination.

I'll readily concede that all of the above may be true, although not all
for
the same
amplifier model.

But as my viewpoint is mainly an engineering one, I see this more as
a challenge to tame, not as a historical artifact that should be
Ji> preserved
and worshiped as-is.

You all, are of course are entitiled to differ and to treat your
amplifiers
as you see fit.



Regards,


George

Ji> Occasionally one of these amps used to come into my shop with the
Ji> output tubes crispy fried. Usually this waas because the grid coupling
Ji> caps were shorted. replace these with 600 volt units. Also check other
Ji> associated componets for "doneness". Also be prepared to lay out much
Ji> bucks for replacement tubes. I wouldnt think an engineer would have
Ji> much trouble replacing these with something a little more economical,
Ji> 6550's should be a good choice I think.

I mentioned the 6550's to George but I simply forgot to mention
replacing the grid coupling caps, thanks for the heads up! These are
usually paper types and become quite leaky with age. A good choice for
the NLA paper types is polycarbonate.

.... I know flyback, ultor, and 47 other dangerous words.

 

[Asimov]

"Jerry G." wrote to "All" (16 Jul 03 10:41:46)
--- on the topic of "Re: detecting phone taps?"

JG> From: "Jerry G." <jerryg@total.net>

JG> Anywhere a medium is used to have a conversation, there is a way to
JG> tap in to it!

Lip reading being one way...

.... Puddy-tat's not so bwave in Gwanny's microwave!

 

[Laurence Taylor]

john wrote:

Thanks Mike I see the attachment on 2 browsers
the Guy that sent it must be slow in the head.
jmo

Thank you for your unsolicited abuse. Since any attachments you
receive are not coming from me, please be so kind as to send it to me
by email so I can investigate.


rgds
LAurence

.... Keep the streets safe: Run down a cyclist today!
begin the search for better software

 

[bigmike]

"ShrikeBack" <hewpiedawg@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:59b8bc96.0307161154.4270a721@posting.google.com...

Misanthrope <amisanthrope@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:<1kg3hvcdpre2snoa3i0r4ggkh1vpi85j90@4ax.com>...
On 13 Jul 2003 09:56:40 -0700, hewpiedawg@hotmail.com (ShrikeBack)
wrote:

Misanthrope <amisanthrope@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:<6bu0hvcaf7t12b6thps6fg8pfiq8b6kgmq@4ax.com>...
On 12 Jul 2003 10:06:37 -0700, hewpiedawg@hotmail.com (ShrikeBack)
wrote:

I am not confusing the epistemological with the ontological.
I merely made the point that we can indeed show that arbitrary
predictability is unobtainable. You did not deal with my
ontological argument concerning the First Cause.

Well, then all of this predictability stuff is completely irrelevant.

I disagree. Determinism has consequences in the realm of epistemology
as well. In a universe where all that is known is known by subsystems
that are themselves embedded in this deterministic existence, it is
useful to examine what specific limits this imposes on what can be
known. I am looking for a reductio ad absurdum, or at least some
observable consequence of absolute determinism. If there is no
observable difference between a universe that deterministic and
one that is not, we will be unable to determine determinism's truth
or falsity. That is likely the result, but I am hoping for a more.

Note that if we wanted to be all positivitic about it, and it did
turn out that determinism was neither falsifiable nor verifiable,
we would likely consider the question meaningless.


Well, thst's the point. Unless we are all positivistic about it, the
"empirical verification" of determinism is beside the point. And, in
fact, positivism is simply mistaken. Determinism is one of many
things we must accept a priori whether we have the epistemological
benefit of predictability or not.

Postivism suffers from a reductio ad absurdum in that the axioms of
postivism are themselves not empirical verifiable. By a previously
show result, however, a formal system with no reductio ad absurdum is
just incomplete. That is why I am looking for determinism's reductio.
It is possible, however, that determinism is just incomplete.

We seem to be the products of genetics and
upbringing which doesn't detract from our having a *will* (that is
not
metaphysically "free"), but we are not the uncaused causes that you
are talking about.

I will just point out that our wills, whether they be free or unfree,
are as self-referencing as the Liar's Paradox.

Well, I do think there is sort of an "epistemological free will",
then. We cannot be totally aware of our awareness. If we were then
our awareness would exist outside of itself which is a pradox. Or
more specifically, if we were at once consciously aware of our
complete consciousness, then that would have to include the aspect of
our consciousness that is at once consciously aware of our complete
consciousness. But that contradicts what was identified as our
consciousness in the first place. Or, more formally, if our
consciousness is A, then let B be our consciousness plus the thoughts
associated with creating a model of A (i.e. being aware of A). If we
are aware of our consciousness, then our consciousness has to be B,
not A, and clearly B is not equal to A. But, we designated our
consciousness as A to begin with, so therefore we must reject one of
the hypotheses, and the only one that we can reject is that we are
aware of our own consciousness. Therefore, we cannot be aware of our
own consciousness.

This is not "epistemological free will". It's a good excuse
for being unable to establish determinism through introspection.

So, in our own *physical* world view, we cannot see ourselves as being
the effects of various causes. That, is different, though, from the
*meta*physical view that we nonetheless are the effects of some causes
even if we cannot personally know the precise chain of events that is
us. (Which again, we cannot personally be aware of literally
everything that makes us what we are, since if we were, we'd have to
be someone else.) I think this is along the lines of what Kant, for
instance, argues in the Critique of Practical Reason where he claims
that we can be as phenomenologically predictable as a lunar eclipse,
but must view our noumenal selves as beings with Free Will. At any
rate, I think all fo this leads to a sort of compatibilism which
includes the view of strict metaphysical determinism which is
basically required for any scientific or philosophical or rational
examination or discussion of nature ro reality.

Note that in the view of those who hold to the faith in the doctrine
of necessity, the doctrine is iteslf necessary. It is "basically
required for any scientific or philosophical examination or discussion
of nature or reality". Unfortunately, this can be empirically
established to be false. Science continues to do its job in spite of
QM. If scientists can be free to doubt the ontology of determinism,
why should the rest of us be forced to remain in this particular
sandbox?

It's time for everybody in this thread to go fishing

 

[bigmike]

"hoss" <mulletman1968@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:bf485l$1mi$1@news-int.gatech.edu...

I have a sony trintiron 13'' TV. unfortunately I don't know the year. for
some reason I can't get any channel above 47 on it while about 100
channels
are available when another TV is connected to the same cable. in addition
the problem still remaines when the problematic sony is connected to
anyother cable. Of course I've tried reprogramming the TV but that doesn't
work. it doesn't even receive the higher channels when they are
specifically
typed into the remote, just static.

I wonder if anyone has any advice on what the problem may be and how to
fix
it aside from getting a new TV.


Thank you very much,
Adam

That's probably as high as that set was designed to go. I do not know the

age of the set, but the older the set, the less cable channels they were
designed to receive. You can either use a cable box, or a cheaper route is
to use the tuner in any half way modern VCR to get the higher channels. Then
just leave your tv on whatever channel the VCR is set to output at, and
change channels with the VCR tuner.

 

[Jeff]

Have you swapped the speakers?
Jeff

"Sharon Leigh" <sleigh@aol.com> wrote in message
news:k4eRa.1876$KZ.911568@news1.news.adelphia.net...

Yes, I do have sound in the bad channel. I think the best way to describe
it
is that it sounds like a radio station that's not tuned in properly. It's
staticy and garbled.
"bigmike" <bigmike@cornhusker.net> wrote in message
news:3f14de13$0$24599$9a6e19ea@news.newshosting.com...

"Sharon Leigh" <sleigh@aol.com> wrote in message
news:VA4Ra.1371$KZ.745283@news1.news.adelphia.net...
I was just reading the post about the marantz receiver static problem.
Mine's slightly different, in that it goes away when I turn the
balance
all
the way left, and my headphones work fine. I cleaned every conceivable
contact and circuit and still have the static. The receiver's 32 years
old
so I am suspecting something has died or fried along the way. anyone
have
any ideas?


Lot's of possibilities. Dirty or worn speaker switch contacts, bad
relay
(if the old amp uses one) contacts, dried up caps, leaky transistors.
Headphones require very little power to produce sound, so some problems
in
the output stage might not show up when using them. By the way, do you
have
sound through the bad channel along with the static, or just static?

 

[Sofie]

boss / Adam:
Yes.... it should be receiving all the cable channels.....
try, with the remote to punch in .... say... channel 49, 52, etc... or some
upper channel ..... BE CERTAIN to press the ENTER button after you punch in
the channel number. If you can receive the channel that you have just
manually enter then it is just a simple matter of ADDING the channels to the
channel memory.... should be a (+) or (-) button on the remote or on the
television or an on screen menu that lets you add or delete channels. Let
us know what you find out.
--
Best Regards,
Daniel Sofie
Electronics Supply & Repair
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -


"hoss" <mulletman1968@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:bf4n23$a2i$1@news-int.gatech.edu...

The model number of my sony is KV-13M10. it was manufactured in aug 1995.
what dose this tell you about my TV? Should it be receiving above 47
channels?

"Sofie" <sofie@olypen.com> wrote in message
news:vhbacj7m435f9d@corp.supernews.com...
hoss / Adam::
If you can provide a model number I think you might get some more
specific
advice..... obviously not all Sony 13" televisions were designed and
built
the same.
Cable television channels over the years have expanded several times as
allowed by FCC rules..... so in the earlier years the television
manufacturers did not build capability into a television that was not
needed.... or was not even an issue.
Depending on the features and design of your television and how old it
is,
up to cable channel 47 just may be all it can receive..... slightly
older
televisions may have only gone up to cable channel 36, and older than
that
maybe cable channel 22.
--
Best Regards,
Daniel Sofie
Electronics Supply & Repair
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -


"hoss" <mulletman1968@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:bf485l$1mi$1@news-int.gatech.edu...
I have a sony trintiron 13'' TV. unfortunately I don't know the year.
for
some reason I can't get any channel above 47 on it while about 100
channels
are available when another TV is connected to the same cable. in
addition
the problem still remaines when the problematic sony is connected to
anyother cable. Of course I've tried reprogramming the TV but that
doesn't
work. it doesn't even receive the higher channels when they are
specifically
typed into the remote, just static.

I wonder if anyone has any advice on what the problem may be and how
to
fix
it aside from getting a new TV.


Thank you very much,
Adam



mulletman1968@hotmail.com

 

[Sofie]

Very good point ..... I think we have all gotten bitten by that one.
--
Best Regards,
Daniel Sofie
Electronics Supply & Repair
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
snipped:

"Jeff" <frontline_electronics@NSatt.net> wrote in message news:31lRa.57999

Have you swapped the speakers?
Jeff
---------------------

"Sharon Leigh" <sleigh@aol.com> wrote in message
news:k4eRa.1876$KZ.911568@news1.news.adelphia.net...
Yes, I do have sound in the bad channel. I think the best way to
describe
it
is that it sounds like a radio station that's not tuned in properly.
It's

 

[Jerry Greenberg]

The tips below are excellent, and accurate! The expected life-span of
a gell or lead acid battery is about 2 to 4 years average if the
battery is used under ideal conditions. I have seen some last about 5
to 6, but rarely. Anything more than about 3 years is a free ride.

If you follow the tips below, the batteries will last about the max
you will ever get from them.


Jerry Greenberg

--


gothika <gothika@earthlink.net> wrote in message news:<jl7bhv0hpa34muvdvajg4li5a6ghfibgtk@4ax.com>...

Thanks for the tips.
I use alot of sealed lead acid batteries for various applications.
Power for photo strobes, handheld spotlights, camcorders etc...
Up till now I've been using wall wart type power supplies for
charging.
The batteries I use are the sealed lead acid type normally used in
emergency lighting etc...
The work very well for the job but tend to die out after 2-3 years
whether used heavy or lightly.
I never knoe if it was simply their usable shelf life or what as I
tend to avoid complete discharge as much as possible.(typically I'll
top charge after battery has reach 50% discharge.)
The wall warts I use match the voltage of the battery(6 or 12) and
have a milliamp output rate no more than 70% of the max allowable
charge rate of the battery.(Most of my batts have a max rate around
800ma, the wall warts 500ma.)
Can you recommend some smart chargers for these types of batteries?
Also, would I be better off switching to sealed gel-pack lead acids or
some other form of battery?(I don't stay up on the latest in battery
technology.)
I gotta stay away from nicad and other forms of "memory" batteries
though.
Thanks again.

On Wed, 16 Jul 2003 19:19:51 +0200, Bill Darden
william.darden@uumail.de> wrote:

Top Ten Deep Cycle Battery Tips

1. Wear glasses when working with a battery, because it might
explode.

2. Recharge your battery as soon as possible after each use. To
prevent permanent sulfation when not in use and especially in hot
weather, keep your battery continuously connected to a "smart" or
maintenance charger or recharge your battery when the State-of-Charge
drops below 80%. Cheap unregulated "trickle" chargers will kill your
battery.

3. Keep your non-sealed battery away from salt water, cool, properly
filled with distilled water, and the top clean. The plates must be
covered at all times.

4. The lower the average Depth-of-Discharge the longer the service
life.

5. Follow the battery manufacturers recommended charging voltages and
procedures. People kill more deep cycle batteries with bad charging
practices than die of old age. Permanent sulfation kills
approximately 85% of all deep cycle batteries.

6. When buying a replacement battery, be sure it matches your
charging system & ampere hour (Ah) requirements and is fresh. Heavier
is better.

7. Keep the battery cable mating surfaces and terminals free from
corrosion.

8. Avoid a shallow (below 10%) discharges or deep discharge below 20%
State-of-Charge of your battery. This could kill it.

9. For longer battery life, do not add acid or additives, keep your
battery securely fastened, and equalize charge it (if recommended by
the battery manufacturer).

10. Use chargers (or settings) that will recharge batteries over
eight to ten hours.

For additional battery information, please go to
http://www.batteryfaq.org.

 

[Jeroni Paul]

This one is very curious and it seems to me a bug or a conflicting feature.
Indeed there is no file attached in source code, yet I keep seeing an
attached file to every Laurence Taylor message named "the search for better
software" and is 0 bytes long. It seems like the last line of that signature
is being interpreted somehow... how did you write that line?

Laurence Taylor wrote in sci.electronics.repair:

Oh no there isn't! (Yes, this does seem to be at the level of a
pantomime).

Stupid to attach nothing? Indeed I have attached nothing. There are no
attachments. Not a single thing is attached to this message. No files,
no nothings, not an electronic sausage. If you find one, I'd like to
see it. If your newsreader shows one, then you have something wrong.
Check the message source and see what you find. If there's an attached
file there, please send it to me, because it didn't come from me.

Now, perhaps someone could answer my original question?

rgds
LAurence

... Keep the streets safe: Run down a cyclist today!

Let's see what happens:
begin is that an attached file

 

[Jeff]

Hi Dan.
Well if headphone works OK?
At least on the old ones that used to be the first question.
Ever seen a headphone resistor burnt open? (yep, twice)
So if it hums dont leave it plugged in.
Some of those old elements could realy take some power.
Jeff

"Sofie" <sofie@olypen.com> wrote in message
news:vhbooh6h6kpg21@corp.supernews.com...

Very good point ..... I think we have all gotten bitten by that one.
--
Best Regards,
Daniel Sofie
Electronics Supply & Repair
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
snipped:

"Jeff" <frontline_electronics@NSatt.net> wrote in message news:31lRa.57999
Have you swapped the speakers?
Jeff
---------------------

 

[rw]

Shell wrote:

You can try Add/Del channel manually.
1. find a remote control (universal is fine) should has ENTER button
2. find a dial swith on front panel maybe cutoff cable signal
3. find buttons (Add/Del) to add or remove channels.

Good luck!
Shell


dont forget the setup function.

you may have to set the TV to CATV, not antenna.
rw..

 

[David]

Hey, thanks. I was more curious about the APEX than anything after we got
the big run around from them.

Since they are so cheap, I wanted to know what made them tick, for now.
David

Sidney <sidneybek@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:fecdbb87.0307160432.3b56d19@posting.google.com...

Free APEX service manual download:

http://www.worldwideelec.com/apex_asc_site/apex.html

Free Memorex service manual download:

http://ads.hopperinc.com/form/product_search/search.asp?t=1
http://www.memorex.com

Free Hitachi service manual download:

http://www.hitachiserviceusa.com
http://823312-000:hsusa812@www.hitachiserviceusa.com/Service/Manuals/

40 tv EEPROM service mode access sites:

http://members.accessus.net/~090/awh/how2adj.html#5.11
http://members.aol.com/philstv/servicemenu.htm
http://www.tehnicaavtv.com/tvservice.htm
http://www.members.accessus.net/~090/awh/sonypal.html
http://intrepid-video.com/tvtech.htm
http://orpheuscomputing.com/technicians/Sony_service_more.html
http://ftp.unina.it/pub/electronics/repairfaq/REPAIR/F_Sony_setup.html#SON
http://www.calanan.com/panasonic
http://www.peakpeak.com/~pnickell/panasonic.htm
http://cellardweller.com/tw40h80/index.html
http://www.bus.ucf.edu/cwhite/theater/ServiceMode.htm
http://www.alientech.net/tp61h95codes.html
http://www.keohi.com/keohihdtv/brandspecific/hitachi/servicemenu.html

http://www.keohi.com/keohihdtv/brandspecific/thomson/thomson_servicemenu.htm

l

http://home.hccnet.nl/m.majoor/tv__matchline_service_mode.htm
http://www.repdata.de/Service%20Code/service-mode.htm
http://www.n2hifi.com/xbr100.html
http://www.e-repair.co.uk/story4.htm
http://www.neato.org/~page/mitsu/service.html
http://www.artofhacking.com/files/TVMODES.TXT
http://qualitytuner.hypermart.net/codes.htm
http://mapage.noos.fr/tophe/tvser.html?KeohiHDTV
http://www.infocoal.ru/rclub/schemes/guide/chip/!eeprom-code/tv-vcr/
http://www.televideo.al.ru/tv-video/servis.html
http://amt.ural.ru/electronics/tv-servmenu.php3
http://es.geocities.com/Dudaelectronica/modosdeservicios.htm
http://www.servisystem.com.ar/tutorial/tv/micro.html
http://www.comunidadelectronicos.com/articulos/modo-serv.htm
http://www.comunidadelectronicos.com/articulos/desbloq.htm
http://webs.demasiado.com/kueyar/Modos.htm
http://paginadekueyar.iespana.es/paginadekueyar/Modos1.html
http://perso.wanadoo.es/jeli/index1.htm
http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/F_tvfaqb.html#TVFAQB_006
http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/F_techtips.html
http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/F_SonySet.html
http://www.schematicsforfree.com/video/apex_secret_menu.pdf

http://www.schematicsforfree.com/audio/products/Panasonic_Table_of_Error_Cod

es_for_Audio_Products.pdf

http://www.iwaynet.net/~nesda/SonyBlink.html
http://members.aol.com/philstv/sonyblinking.htm
http://www.videotech.org/self.htm

EEPROM part #'s by model/chassis lookup:
http://www.mainelectronics.com/eproms.htm
http://www.prelcoparts.com/eepromcross.pdf
http://www.iwaynet.net/~nesda/EEPROMS.pdf