Toshiba TV29C90 problem; Image fades to black...

[geo73]

Assuming that till now you are so unlucky with your cameras,
and you refuse to have someone else to repair it,
you can make the following: a small or bigg pack of batteries
in a small strap bag and 1m wire connection to your camera.
You can recharge indipentandly this pack and it's capacity of
current will be much much more than 2 AA batteries...
Not a really technical solution to your problem...
....but yet it is a solution

 

[James Sweet]

"larrymoencurly" <larrymoencurly@my-deja.com> wrote in message
news:755e968a.0410031718.36d14f87@posting.google.com...

One of the ports of my NEC-based USB 2.0 card quit working because the
National Semiconductor LM3526 power controller chip failed. I'm
pretty sure that I didn't zap it with static (I always touch the
outher metal shell to the computer case before plugging it in) or try
to plug it in backwards. The data sheet for the LM3526 says that it's
protected against voltage, current, and even temperature, so what
happened?

Stuff just fails occasionally with no good explaination, could be it was
just a defective part that eventually quit.

 

[NSM]

"James Sweet" <jamessweet@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:lu58d.2427$r3.597@trnddc05...
|
| "larrymoencurly" <larrymoencurly@my-deja.com> wrote in message
| news:755e968a.0410031718.36d14f87@posting.google.com...
| > One of the ports of my NEC-based USB 2.0 card quit working because the
| > National Semiconductor LM3526 power controller chip failed. I'm
| > pretty sure that I didn't zap it with static (I always touch the
| > outher metal shell to the computer case before plugging it in) or try
| > to plug it in backwards. The data sheet for the LM3526 says that it's
| > protected against voltage, current, and even temperature, so what
| > happened?
|
|
| Stuff just fails occasionally with no good explaination, could be it was
| just a defective part that eventually quit.

Or as I say, "Everything works until it breaks". Then there are the three
brand new tubes I took off the shelf one at a time, each of which was bad.
Still can't get over that one.

N

 

[L. Fiar]

"JURB6006" <jurb6006@aol.com> wrote in message
news:20040927223840.27025.00001381@mb-m13.aol.com...

HI;

Please don't take this personally, but those ASCII schematics
are lame. I have never seen one work right, the one you did was
about as close as it has come.

I often find the same. There is a limit to what can be shown
reasonably using ASCII characters, specially when dealing with the
limited width of these text messages.
It's a bit of a bummer if it wraps part of the drawing.

But, it can be quicker than searching for a link to a diagram or
drawing one and uploading it to a site. I have noticed some
references to binary groups, but they do not all appear on my
server.

If there is some program that can view these things right
I'd really like to know about it.

I find that OE displays ASCII drawings quite well, if you
use the correct font.


Regards.

 

[Peter van Merkerk]

T.J. Harry wrote:

I am interested to know if more than one magnetron can be used with a
bigger cavity to enhance cooking more quantity of stuff..... relation
of cavity with magnetron's frequency/ power output etc.

My microwave oven has two magnetrons. So apparently it is possible,
never bothered to figure out how they did it though.

--
Peter van Merkerk
peter.van.merkerk(at)dse.nl

 

[Nico]

I solved the problem.
It was a cold soldering on the main PCB.
There were a lot of cold solderings so I can't tell you where the problem
came exactly.

Thank James Sweet for your help.


"James Sweet" <jamessweet@hotmail.com> a écrit dans le message de news:
CLO1d.3126$bj2.794@trnddc08...

"Nico" <md.richard@free.fr> wrote in message
news:4145c85f$0$30116$626a14ce@news.free.fr...
I have this monitor which has just developed a horizontal drive fault.
There is only a light vertical line down the center of the monitor.

Thanks for your help.




Check the horizontal deflection transistor for starters, there's
undoubtably
a fuse or fusible resistor which is blown as well.

 

[NSM]

"Spanky" <slackardboy@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:89062d7c.0410040712.7407a952@posting.google.com...
| We have a Dell UltraScan P1110 that is in need of repair. Does anyone
| know of a company that offers monitor repair service on large monitors
| such as these? If so please post here.
|
| Thanks in advance.
|
| Spanky

On what planet or continent and in what country, state or city? FedEx from
Mars can be expensive.

 

[cricri99]

Jim Nyman Wrote:

I have a Sony KV-1326R TV that is stuck on channel 32. No matter if I
use
the buttons or a remote the channel won't change. Any ideas that I can
try?

Thanks, Jim Nyman = nyman at kai.net

Hi Jim, I have a similar problem, were you able to figure it out? I
really need to get the tv working to display other channels because my
dad is in the hospital.

Thank you,
Isabel


--
cricri99

 

[Tom MacIntyre]

On 4 Oct 2004 13:57:43 -0700, larrymoencurly@my-deja.com
(larrymoencurly) wrote:

"James Sweet" <jamessweet@hotmail.com> wrote in message news:<lu58d.2427$r3.597@trnddc05>...

Stuff just fails occasionally with no good explaination, could be
it was just a defective part that eventually quit.

I am eternally grateful for your answer, which not only completely
solved my problem with the USB port but will also magically turn the
rest of my life into bliss. So please give me your address so that I
can send you a $500 check, no, make that a blank check -- your advice
was that good.

Believe it or not, it was a good and reasonable response, given the
information he had to work with.

Tom

 

[keith]

On Mon, 04 Oct 2004 03:21:58 +0000, daytripper wrote:

On Mon, 04 Oct 2004 01:50:54 GMT, "NSM" <nowrite@to.me> wrote:


"larrymoencurly" <larrymoencurly@my-deja.com> wrote in message
news:755e968a.0410031718.36d14f87@posting.google.com...
...
| National Semiconductor says that each USB port must have a 120uF or
| larger ....................................... But my USB card has
| only a 100uF aluminum capacitor and maybe a ceramic capacitor in
| parallel for this....

Close enough!

Except the tantalum cap would have much lower esl & esr figures than an
aluminum cap, making it more effective.

otoh, tantalums can have a brilliant failure mode ;-)

So do engineers when they're bringing up a system where all
of the tantallums were inserted backwards. You want to see fireworks!
(well,it was 25 years ago - I've mostly recovered and the tinninus
isn't so bad. <twitch&gt

--
Keith

 

[Lionel]

Kibo informs me that reverend_rogers@yahoo.com (b) stated that:

This is an old set with a DIN 6 pin socket for the AV input position,
anybody know the pinout? I have checked the net and found various sets
of pinouts for the likes of grundig,:

http://freespace.virgin.net/matt.waite/resource/av/din6a.htm

but these don't work. neither do the DIN to 4 phono adaptors.

any ideas?

My usual method: Draw a diagram of the socket on a piece of paper to log
your findings. Use your multimeter/continuity-beeper to determine the
ground pins, use a scope to determine the composite-video/audio output
pins, inject video or audio via a resistor (100 ohms or so) into the
remaining pins to identify them.

--
W
. | ,. w , "Some people are alive only because
\|/ \|/ it is illegal to kill them." Perna condita delenda est
---^----^---------------------------------------------------------------

 

[NSM]

"keith" <krw@att.bizzzz> wrote in message
newsan.2004.10.05.01.56.40.575135@att.bizzzz...

| So do engineers when they're bringing up a system where all
| of the tantallums were inserted backwards. You want to see fireworks!
| (well,it was 25 years ago - I've mostly recovered and the tinninus
| isn't so bad. <twitch&gt

I recall being told of a large TTL circuit board which was powered up with
reverse polarity. This was noticed due to the considerable amount of heat
being given off.

Everyone was mystified when the correctly rewired board worked OK. I guess
TTL is a little more tolerant than is generally believed.

N

 

[Allodoxaphobia]

On 29 Sep 2004 14:18:28 -0700, kofi Mpengya hath writ:

There is this printer which will pick paper the moment you drop in a
paper without any command from the CPU or the printer itself and the
sheet comes out blank. The same happens even when the printer is not
hooked to any machine. Help please. Thanks in advance.

comp.periphs.printers
comp.sys.hp.hardware

 

[Chaos Master]

Scarfie said:

Anyone know if this is feasible? I'm willing to offer up a player for
experimentation if anyone can even say it may be possible.

I don't know if it's possible, but I think there's video software for PC that
could do this stuff?

[]s
--
Chaos MasterŽ, posting from Brazil.
"People told me I can't dress like a fairy.
I say, I'm in a rock band and I can do what the hell I want!"
-- Amy Lee

The Evanescen(t/ce) HP: http://marreka.no-ip.com

 

[NSM]

"Gloria" <gc150@ureach.com> wrote in message
news:2a7703c1.0410041957.b02fb77@posting.google.com...
| Hi, I got caught in the rain and my discman got wet. Now it doesn't
| turn on. I did open it and waited for it to dry. I wanted to learn
| how to fix it but I don't know where to start. Are there certain
| tools I need? Should I just pick up a book in the library? Or is it
| even worth trying? I've never really repaired anything electronic
| before. I mostly fix computers but that seems easy compared to fixing
| this. Thanks in advance!

I knocked over a cup of tea with milk and sugar and flooded out my portable
CD player. I cracked open the case and soaked the whole thing in warm water
and baking soda, rinsed it out and left it to dry for a few days. Still
works fine.

N

 

[Mark D. Zacharias]

You can try disassembling and seeing if there's any corrosion you can clean
away. I'm suspecting this is a lost cause.

Mark Z.


"Gloria" <gc150@ureach.com> wrote in message
news:2a7703c1.0410041957.b02fb77@posting.google.com...

Hi, I got caught in the rain and my discman got wet. Now it doesn't
turn on. I did open it and waited for it to dry. I wanted to learn
how to fix it but I don't know where to start. Are there certain
tools I need? Should I just pick up a book in the library? Or is it
even worth trying? I've never really repaired anything electronic
before. I mostly fix computers but that seems easy compared to fixing
this. Thanks in advance!

 

[Mark D. Zacharias]

If it feeds the vertical circuit you could try a 1 ohm or a 2.2 ohm. The
rectifier needs to be a high-speed type.

Mark Z.


"Philip Belleau" <philip.belleau@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:9ln8d.7059$HO1.370896@news20.bellglobal.com...

Hi,

Just like the subject says, does anyone either have a schematic or know
the
value of R541 (in series with D541, also blown but identifyable) for a JVC
27" TV model AV-27920?

Everything else seems in order.

Any help is appreciated and thanks in advance to those who reply.

Best Regards,

Philip

 

[Craig Hart]

forgive me for not immediately recommending you open the controller chip and
place it under your scanning electron microscope to search for signs of
electromigration...


"larrymoencurly" <larrymoencurly@my-deja.com> wrote in message
news:755e968a.0410041257.1581ba4c@posting.google.com...

"James Sweet" <jamessweet@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:<lu58d.2427$r3.597@trnddc05>...

Stuff just fails occasionally with no good explaination, could be
it was just a defective part that eventually quit.

I am eternally grateful for your answer, which not only completely
solved my problem with the USB port but will also magically turn the
rest of my life into bliss. So please give me your address so that I
can send you a $500 check, no, make that a blank check -- your advice
was that good.

 

[tmac]

So after a visit from an on-site TV repair center, the tech took the back
off the TV and found the "common problem".

I couldn't believe it. A bunch of weak solder joints was the culprit. He
went ahead and checked out all the boards and resoldered any joints that did
not look so good. The TV has been perfect ever since.

Total cost $200

"tmac" <timmymac_nospam@netapp.com> wrote in message news:...

After being in service in my house for well over a year, the TV just
started
randomly powering down and turns a red light on in front blinking.

The only way to recover the TV is to pull the plug and wait a few
seconds and then plug it back in. Sometimes, I need to wait a few
minutes, otherwise the red light comes back on and the TV is useless.

has anyone seen this issue? have you had it repaired? what was the repair?

 

[Mark D. Zacharias]

Measure from point 12V with respect to ground. I suspect your standby
transformer is bad.

Mark Z.


"ampapa" <vbtalent@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:abe50b2b.0410030317.608bb45f@posting.google.com...

No click when I push the power button and I do have my voltmeter set
to A/C.

By looking at the schematic am I correct that the transformer should
be seeing appx. 110v? or should I be looking for some other voltage
being delivered to the transformer?

Also, in order for the A/C board to "enable" the turn-on relay by the
on/off switch then I should be seeing voltage coming back from the
"Digital" board correct? I see the header that leads to the "Digital"
board has 4 legs, GND, 12V, P_OFF and P.RY. Are these designations
specific to the industry as to what they represent?


Thanks for the help,



"Mark D. Zacharias" <mzacharias@yis.us> wrote in message
news:<2s8l2qF1hj1gcU1@uni-berlin.de>...
If all the fuses are OK, then the power transformer probably isn't
getting
voltage from the turn-on relay. Does it click when you press the Power
button? CNV902 gets no AC voltage to speak of til this relay fires. (I
assume your voltmeter is set to measure AC voltage)

Mark Z.


"ampapa" <vbtalent@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:abe50b2b.0410021015.2ce33916@posting.google.com...
Sorry if this is a double post.

Mark, are you saying there might be a fuse literaly underneath a
circuit board and not necessarily hidden from view by a circuit board?
I checked about 5 or 6 fuses in this thing and all checked fine.

My biggest problem is that when I read the schematic I can't tell if
the transformer is supposed to be getting 110v from the A/C board on
CNV902? If it is then I can trace it from there. That's my real
dilema.

The schematic can be found here
(http://www.eserviceinfo.com/index.php?what=search2).

Thanks,


"Mark D. Zacharias" <mzacharias@yis.us> wrote in message
news:<2s7f2tF1ffucfU1@uni-berlin.de>...
These models often have fuses sort of hidden under a circuit board
attached
to the transformer. If these fuses are blown you probably have a blown
amp
channel. Sometimes just the output transistors for a given channel are
bad,
sometimes there are other small parts bad. Occasionally a circuit mod
is
required to lessen the bias at startup.

Mark Z.


"ampapa" <vbtalent@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:abe50b2b.0410011801.4819cdbc@posting.google.com...
First off I'd like to say, "Hello." to the group. I hope I can gain
some knowledge from the group's collective input.

I have a Sony STR-DE635 stereo receiver that will not turn on and I
would like to investigate into maybe seeing if I can repair it. I
found a set of schematics on this site which I believe will
definitely help.(http://www.eserviceinfo.com/index.php?what=search2)

I'm guessing but I think that the problem is related to the power
supply? On p.13 of this .PDF manual it has an A/C and D/C schematic,
this receiver has a seperate board for each. I probed the A/C board
and found that it has voltage out to the "Digital" board of a little
over 12 volts but when I try to test the pins on CNV902 I thought I
should be getting appx. 110 A/C but only get appx. 2? CNV902 is a
simple 2 wire connector leading directly to a transformer.

My common sense is telling me that why would I need a transformaer
the size of Kansas for only 2 volts A/C? So, I'm guessing this might
have something to do with it? I could be in left field due to my
lack
of knowledge and inexperience, that's why I'm hoping you
guy's/girl's
can shed some light.

Thanks for any suggestions or hints you can provide.