Toshiba TV29C90 problem; Image fades to black...

[Michael A. Terrell]

"ctops.legal" wrote:

Hey I will just buy the interface cable and go into the interface
hardware that's the easy way, all the reading don't get to the problem
ALWAYS find a simple way, I guess the caveman had to break a s**tload
of rocks before he found one that would roll, thanks guys.


ctops.legal

Idiot.


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[clifto]

James Sweet wrote:

Did you check locally? Many places carry a selection, Frys had a whole
shelf of them, I don't recall what the prices were like though.

I buy through local alarm companies. Call two or three and at least one will
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[b]

Dan Dubosky ha escrito:

I have a GE 9" under the counter TV (Model 09GP108) which has video that
fades out after the set is on for while, then comes back, and repeats the
pro

if it recurrs, could you post a video of this fault on youtube? that
would help.

meanwhile, that HOT you bought could have been a fake. there are vast
numbers around ,which fail quickly exactly like yours did.

b

 

[antoni.ubieto]

Hitachi CP-X430W? It has a faint double image, apparently in the
red
channel,

I've seen something like you describe in NEC LCD projectors.
AIRC, the
problem was warpage of the affected LCD panel; repairable
(replace the
panel), but not economically.

Ray Carlsen wrote:


jak,
Thanks for the feedback. We've had quite a few projectors
including NEC
fail with bad panels or filters, but the symptoms were quite
different, mostly
consisting of blue blobs sneaking through what should be a dark
background or
yellow spots on a white screen. They always seem to under-rate the
cooling in
LCD projectors.
The fault with this Hitachi is that the "ghost"
image is exactly 12 pixels
wide and shows up ahead of normal vertical lines. A warped panel or
dichroic
filter wouldn't do that. If a red-only screen is displayed and the
RGB input is
fed color bars at 50% level (you will not see it at 100%), the
right side of the
red vertical bar is dark, the width of 12 pixels. The green and
blue channels
are OK.
As I mentioned before, we had quite a few Sanyo based
projectors with the
same kind of problem. The "cure" for those was to change
the data in one memory
location in the service menu. We needed the ear of a knowledgeable
tech at
Sanyo, and I got it several years ago... that problem was solved
for Sanyos.

Ray
--

My return addy is spamblocked. To reply, remove the zeroes.

I've a similar problem with a sanyo PLC-SU33. The image is doubled in
blue a few distance at right.
You mentioned that the solution is in the service menu. Where could I
find this information?.

Thanks.

Toni

 

[Major Debacle]

James Sweet wrote:

Perhaps I should have used the word "bulb" instead of "lamp", for it is
the fluorescent bulb which has burned out and needs replacing. The
fixture is in good shape. This omission on my part may or may not have
caused confusion. The fixture itself is built into a cabinet and the
electrical guts are inside a cavity. The back of the cabinet would have
to be removed to get to them.

The fluorescent bulb which has burned out looks like any American style
bulb except that it has just one nubby electrode at each end instead of
two pins. A standard 21 inch, American style, two pin fluorescent bulb
will fit in this fixture, but it flickers and gets extremely hot at the
ends. I've called a couple of light bulb suppliers in the area and
neither was able to help. I have an email in to Technico Marine,
http://www.technicomarine.com/ and I'm waiting for a reply. If you have
any suggestions on where else to go for this bulb, please post.

Thanks...


No, "Lamp" is a correct term for a fluorescent "bulb", it's not really a
bulb afterall, but a tube.

That sounds like a slimline, I know I've seen fairly short slimline
lamps (tubes) at McLendon hardware near me, I can look next time I go
there. What is the diameter? I believe I've seen both T8 and T6.

This is the wrong length, but otherwise the sort I'm thinking
http://www.lbutampa.com/Lighting-Products/Product/Satco/Light_Bulbs/S6471/

That picture looks exactly like the one I need to change. The diameter
of the tube is probably 3/4", so it would be a T6. I don't have it here
with me. Definitely not a T8. As for length, a two-pin slender style
tube of nominal size 21 inches fits this fixture.

I have run all this by several merchants who specialize in light bulbs
and none have even been able to come close.

I am probably going to have to change the fixtures.

 

[Eeyore]

N_Cook wrote:

The view of this amp
is upside down as the fan is at the base. So drawing air horizonatally
theough a "designed" 5/8 inch space under the amp.

Hahahahahahahaa !

What LOONIES. That's STALLING the fan blades. NO wonder putting bigger feet on
helps.

How well would a propellor aircraft fly if you put an obstruction in front of
the prop ?

Graham

 

[Sam Goldwasser]

Matthew Karam <mkaram@gmail.com> writes:

I do get the HeNe wavelength with the test button. My task for today
is to shoot in another reference laser and verify that the wavelength
is reported properly.

The beauty of this thing is that once you get that to work, almost everything
else *has* to work. It may not be optimally aligned but should be close.

Thanks again for all your help, Sam. This would have been a major pain
without your help and your manual.... do you just keep archives of
these things?

Yeah, somewhat randomly archived across various Web sites.

Thanks!

--- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/
Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/
+Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/lasersam.htm
| Mirror Sites: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/F_mirror.html

Important: Anything sent to the email address in the message header above is
ignored unless my full name AND either lasers or electronics is included in the
subject line. Or, you can contact me via the Feedback Form in the FAQs.

 

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[Michael A. Terrell]

Meat Plow wrote:

On Thu, 29 May 2008 13:06:42 -0400, Michael A. Terrell wrote:


Meat Plow wrote:

Maybe an under run pulley and belt kit would have done the job.


We are talking over 35 years ago. I finally found a larger pulley for
the alternator from a heavy duty Delco truck alternator. The other
pulley was over the water pump, and would have required custom
machining. I was in the middle of nowhere, AKA southern Alabama at Ft.
Rucker Army base at the time. There was no easy way to find parts back
then, and the rip-off speed shops would only look for a part if you let
them install it. A three dollar bearing every couple months was easier
than over $250 and letting them screw with my car.

Understood.

The second alternator confused the crap out of the gas jockeys.
That, and all the chrome & polished aluminum under the hood, along with
the 1 AWG welding cable I made the custom battery cables from. By the
time they realized I had a three speed automatic they were babbling.
After all, everyone KNEW it was impossible to fit it under a '66 GTO.
;-)


--
Service to my country? Been there, Done that, and I've got my DD214 to
prove it.
Member of DAV #85.

Michael A. Terrell
Central Florida

 

[James Sweet]

With a Variac on the input, this is a handy for working on line
operated devices that might have a line-to-chassis defect.

Do you actually use a setup like that? I'd think that for any sort
of current, the filament windings would be melting down even though
they are made of fat wire. For example, at 300 VA of output, you're
looking at ~100 A in the filament winding.

Connecting the HV windings together would probably work a lot better.
Would want to knock out the magnetic shunts too, that can be tricky but
I've done it on several without damaging the windings.

 

[JosephKK]

On Thu, 5 Jun 2008 14:59:07 -0400, "Michael Kennedy"
<Mikek400@remthis.comcast.net> wrote:

"William Sommerwerck" <grizzledgeezer@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:kvydnb8rD-ERU9rVnZ2dnUVZ_rzinZ2d@comcast.com...
Running batteries in parallel is a bad idea. Think of what will happen if
their voltages don't match. If you do such a thing, you need to put diodes
in series with each.


Some car batteries are connected in parallel. Especially larger trucks with
diesel engines.

Mike

Actually the batteries are in series to run the starter motor, and
isolated otherwise.

 

[hr(bob) hofmann@att.net]

On Jun 8, 1:48 pm, hobs <ho...@ptd.net> wrote:

I havea mitsu 55 inch hd tv for about 6 moths I have been getting
green bars on the l and r side of the screen . I would shut the tv off
and then turn it back on and it was ok. Then about 2 months ago the
problem went away. Now , a week ago the problem came back and will not
go away no matter what. I a little afraid of calling a repair man only
to find out it would cost big money to fix. The tv is in mint cond and
and I woulds like to keep it . What do you guy suggest and how much
would you put in a 6 year old tv . New big screen are under 2k.
Any help would be appreciated , Hobbs

Didn't the set come witha warranty/guarantee?

 

[Sjouke Burry]

clifto wrote:

William Sommerwerck wrote:
"Charles" <charlesschuler@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:5f6dnWZN_8Ocz9HVnZ2dnUVZ_qLinZ2d@comcast.com...
"William Sommerwerck" <grizzledgeezer@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:2eGdnUPXhe21q9HVnZ2dnUVZ_vzinZ2d@comcast.com...
It is not generally considered a good idea to store batteries in a
refrigerator, unless they are sealed in moisture-tight wrapping. The low
relative humidity tends to cause them to dry out otherwise.
Any reliable sources for this?
"I read it somewhere." It's almost common sense.

It would make common sense to me to believe that the relative humidity in
a refrigerator would be pretty high.

Its low. All the moisture is frozen to the boy of the

freezer. Thats why you have to defrost them on occasion.