Toshiba TV29C90 problem; Image fades to black...

On Fri, 27 Jun 2008 03:12:30 GMT Mark Healey <die@spammer.die> wrote:

I need what is pictured below. The problem is that I don't know what it
is called. "ribbon cable" gets me a bunch of false positives (hard drive
type cables).

I need a term I can enter into google so I can order some new ones.

http://www.healeyopolis.com/CableThing.jpg
Are you just asking for the wire (cable?) Then it is indeed called
just ribbon cable, or flat ribbon cable. You need to specify the # of
conductors (looks like 28 or 30 in your photo) and the pitch.

Go to Digikey and search for ribbon cable....

If you just need a few inches, then you could probably make what you
need from some hard drive or floppy cables. If you need it with
particular connectors on the ends, then there are several varieties of
these available there, too. Most of them are insulation displacement
types which you can install yourself with the help of a vice.

-
-----------------------------------------------
Jim Adney jadney@vwtype3.org
Madison, WI 53711 USA
-----------------------------------------------
 
"Stephany Alexander" <sermoderator@hotpop.com> wrote in message
news:c2e00a0e-16d6-4e44-946f-e30bda704508@k13g2000hse.googlegroups.com...
On Jun 6, 8:54 pm, Don Bowey <dbo...@comcast.net> wrote:
On 6/6/08 7:40 PM, in article 6w63smarx0....@plus.seas.upenn.edu, "Sam

Goldwasser" <s...@plus.seas.upenn.edu> wrote:
I have been a member in good standing with eBay since 1999. As readers
of Sam's Laser FAQ are probably aware, I have acquired a large number of
lasers and related items on eBay, most at bargain basement prices. All
in
all I have been very satisfied with the eBay experience. Until now.

For a blow-by-blow saga of what I'm experiencing now, please go to

http://repairfaq.cis.upenn.edu/Misc/ebayhorror1.htm

I will be updating this as it plays out. I expect the outcome to be
satisfactory, but the route it's taking is like one of those nightmares
where you're trapped on a 15 dimensional mobius strip. :)

Comments welcome!

I've not had a problem of that kind with the idiots, but I have attempted
to
do a problem resolution with them and find them useless droids.

To minimize contact with them I even quit using Paypal, as they wanted too
much personal information such as checking account, etc. I don't trust
them
and never will.

Were I you, I'd talk with my attorney about the bad experience.
No, if you were him, he be kicked off Ebay for selling pictures of
yourself sucking dick.

Good luck; you'll need it.;
Please Stephany,

Keep it clean at least. Also note I was not able to verify any of Sam's
story.
You see the letter from Ebay does not appear valid. ( The original
complaint is not there ).
It does not seem like one of the in fights ongoing inside Ebay.
--
Thanks,
Timelord
Charlie's Place BBS, Newsgroups - Games - Files - Gifs
--- Synchronet 3.14a-Win32 NewsLink 2.03
Charlie's Place BBS - http://cpbbs.synchro.net:8080 - telnet://cpbbs.synchro.net.16:8023 - ftp://cpbbs.synchro.net:8021/00index.html
 
oldcoot <oldcoot7074@sbcglobal.net> wrote in message
news:cd39c1ae-d4b9-4ffe-8369-3c1e763ec3eb@j33g2000pri.googlegroups.com...
On Jun 27, 4:27 am, "N_Cook" <dive...@tcp.co.uk> wrote:
I replaced the 4nF, 800V on the HV secondary with 4.5nF 4KV.
Testing the old one, it did not like 500V of a megger up it , it went
short.

Radio is now working all on 12V , but not sweetly, as no can around the
vibrator and no casing around radio and no screen at the final EL42 output
valve. Sparking on any of the contacts is barely noticeable even in a
darkened room, I expected quite a show.
Adding 500 uF to the HT made no difference to the hash , so hopefully due
to
lack of screens.
Vibrator on 12V , current unlimited, it produces HT of 300V cold ,dropping
to 210V in use. Upping from 12V to 13V then HT goes up to 250V or so in
use.
Will have to wrap it up in all its casing just to check the output is like
the audio with a proper mains HT before adding an FM IC and secret
switches,
which was the original idea.

Kudos, great job! 'Specially on having the points running with little
visible fireworks. The hash should quiet down with shields in place.

Bill(oc)


Easier than that, just moved the aerial to the other side of the bench as
well as putting the internal screen back and the can back around the hummer.
Secreted some heated silica gel under the foam and sealed around the base,
before fitting back in with hot-melt glue all around the can, for sound
absorbtion.

--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/
 
On Fri, 27 Jun 2008 18:14:47 +0100, N_Cook wrote:

oldcoot <oldcoot7074@sbcglobal.net> wrote in message
news:cd39c1ae-d4b9-4ffe-8369-3c1e763ec3eb@j33g2000pri.googlegroups.com...
On Jun 27, 4:27 am, "N_Cook" <dive...@tcp.co.uk> wrote:
I replaced the 4nF, 800V on the HV secondary with 4.5nF 4KV. Testing the
old one, it did not like 500V of a megger up it , it went
short.

Radio is now working all on 12V , but not sweetly, as no can around the
vibrator and no casing around radio and no screen at the final EL42
output valve. Sparking on any of the contacts is barely noticeable even
in a darkened room, I expected quite a show. Adding 500 uF to the HT
made no difference to the hash , so hopefully due
to
lack of screens.
Vibrator on 12V , current unlimited, it produces HT of 300V cold
,dropping to 210V in use. Upping from 12V to 13V then HT goes up to 250V
or so in
use.
Will have to wrap it up in all its casing just to check the output is
like the audio with a proper mains HT before adding an FM IC and secret
switches,
which was the original idea.

Kudos, great job! 'Specially on having the points running with little
visible fireworks. The hash should quiet down with shields in place.

Bill(oc)


Easier than that, just moved the aerial to the other side of the bench as
well as putting the internal screen back and the can back around the
hummer. Secreted some heated silica gel under the foam and sealed around
the base, before fitting back in with hot-melt glue all around the can,
for sound absorbtion.
Will the glue melt or soften? I've worked on a couple vibrator radios way
back when and I recall them running a little too hot for hot glue;.
 
http://cgi6.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?MfcISAPICommand=ViewListedItems&userid=myradioroom&include=0&since=2&sort=3&rows=25
 
<Preamp@web.de> wrote in message
news:ec9f8c65-4972-4063-80cc-59b029158a0a@79g2000hsk.googlegroups.com...
Hi everybody.
I've got a strange problem regarding my CompactDisc-Player DX6810 by
Onkyo. When I insert a disc, it spins up for about 3-4 seconds and
then simply runs out. It isn't stopped, the spindle motor just stops
turning. The track display then reads "0" and nothing else is
displayed, i.e. the calendar is empty and there's nothing like "no
disc" or else.

Here's what I've tried up to now:
- Changed the Pickup
- Changed the spindle motor
- Checked lubrication
- Checked FE and TE
- Checked the DC servos for spindle- and pickup-motor

Everything seems to be OK. I also watched the eye pattern on an
oscilloscope. It isn't a complete grid, but I think that is ok while
reading the TOC. Gain is ok and it's not overly noisy.
I also read the Troubleshooting-Guide by Mr Goldwasser from top to end
but now I'm stuck. Hope anybody here has some more ideas. I'll try to
support you as best as I can with more information or measurement
results.

Best regards and many thanks in advance,

Lasse
This model is not listed on the US Onkyo servicer's web site. Having
replaced the pickup may have introduced another problem, mainly that most
new pickups have a "solder short" which consists of two adjacent foil pads
soldered together so as to short out the laser diode and prevent
electrostatic damage during transport or handling. This solder bridge, if it
exists in your model, must be unsoldered for the new pickup to work.


Mark Z.
 
"William Sommerwerck" <grizzledgeezer@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:fu-dnWLHwOkBwZ3UnZ2dnUVZ_jqdnZ2d@comcast.com...
Microwaves do not 'bounce around' in the oven. Microwaves are
directional, that's why you move the food. The microwave emitter
does not move.

On some cookers, that isn't strictly true.

To quote Galileo: "Nevertheless, it does move." Once upon a time,
microwave
ovens had a "stirrer", a fan that "moved" the standing-wave pattern around
the oven cavity.
Eggzackerly ! One of those references that I gave, also refers to rotating
antennas. Both of these devices for altering the microwave pattern, are
placed in or at the exit of the waveguide, which by definition forms part of
"the emitter".

Arfa
 
Arfa Daily wrote:
"William Sommerwerck" <grizzledgeezer@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:fu-dnWLHwOkBwZ3UnZ2dnUVZ_jqdnZ2d@comcast.com...
Microwaves do not 'bounce around' in the oven. Microwaves are
directional, that's why you move the food. The microwave emitter
does not move.
On some cookers, that isn't strictly true.
To quote Galileo: "Nevertheless, it does move." Once upon a time,
microwave
ovens had a "stirrer", a fan that "moved" the standing-wave pattern around
the oven cavity.



Eggzackerly ! One of those references that I gave, also refers to rotating
antennas. Both of these devices for altering the microwave pattern, are
placed in or at the exit of the waveguide, which by definition forms part of
"the emitter".
Remember those old Philips machines? where the magnetron was at the
bottom and fired the magic rays into an aluminium 'fan' which was
mounted beneath the glass floor of the oven. the reflector was propelled
by the draught from the magnetron cooling fan whereupon the microwaves
were reflected upwards through the glass floor of the cavity and onwards
and upwards into the food.

Ron
 
"Ron Johnson" <ron@lunevalleyaudio.com> wrote in message
news:w_adnd_zwYQB9Z3UnZ2dnUVZ8o-dnZ2d@bt.com...
Arfa Daily wrote:
"William Sommerwerck" <grizzledgeezer@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:fu-dnWLHwOkBwZ3UnZ2dnUVZ_jqdnZ2d@comcast.com...
Microwaves do not 'bounce around' in the oven. Microwaves are
directional, that's why you move the food. The microwave emitter
does not move.
On some cookers, that isn't strictly true.
To quote Galileo: "Nevertheless, it does move." Once upon a time,
microwave
ovens had a "stirrer", a fan that "moved" the standing-wave pattern
around
the oven cavity.



Eggzackerly ! One of those references that I gave, also refers to
rotating antennas. Both of these devices for altering the microwave
pattern, are placed in or at the exit of the waveguide, which by
definition forms part of "the emitter".

Remember those old Philips machines? where the magnetron was at the bottom
and fired the magic rays into an aluminium 'fan' which was mounted beneath
the glass floor of the oven. the reflector was propelled by the draught
from the magnetron cooling fan whereupon the microwaves were reflected
upwards through the glass floor of the cavity and onwards and upwards into
the food.

Ron
Never saw one quite like that, but I guess that rotating 'reflector' is the
same principle as the motor driven 'stirrer'

Arfa
 
Ron Johnson wrote:
William Sommerwerck wrote:
"Claude Hopper" <boobooililililil@roadrunner.com> wrote in message

Microwaves do not 'bounce around' in the oven. Microwaves are
directional, that's why you move the food. The microwave emitter
does not move.
Perhaps we should dub you "Clod Hopper". (Perhaps your posts are jokes, and
you're waiting to see who's the first to "get it".)

Microwaves do, indeed, "bounce around" within the oven cavity. There is
usually a standing-wave pattern with hot and cold spots, which is the main
reason for the turntable.


There`s a demonstration which I`ve seen, where a shallow plate of
something which looks like porridge is placed in a m/w and when the oven
is operated, you can see the wave pattern on the surface. I`ve also seen
it done with hundreds of neon lamps laid on the plater

The demonstration indicates nicely the hot spots and nulls in the
microwave coverage.

Ron
Put a cd in the mag, and the burn marks on the surface show the
wavelenght and hot/cool spots.
(as soon as you see sparking/smoke, switch off!!!! :) :) )
Add a cup of cold water to protect the mag from self destruct.
 
Sjouke Burry wrote:
Ron Johnson wrote:
William Sommerwerck wrote:
"Claude Hopper" <boobooililililil@roadrunner.com> wrote in message

Microwaves do not 'bounce around' in the oven. Microwaves are
directional, that's why you move the food. The microwave emitter
does not move.
Perhaps we should dub you "Clod Hopper". (Perhaps your posts are
jokes, and
you're waiting to see who's the first to "get it".)

Microwaves do, indeed, "bounce around" within the oven cavity. There is
usually a standing-wave pattern with hot and cold spots, which is the
main
reason for the turntable.


There`s a demonstration which I`ve seen, where a shallow plate of
something which looks like porridge is placed in a m/w and when the
oven is operated, you can see the wave pattern on the surface. I`ve
also seen it done with hundreds of neon lamps laid on the plater

The demonstration indicates nicely the hot spots and nulls in the
microwave coverage.

Ron
Put a cd in the mag, and the burn marks on the surface show the
wavelenght and hot/cool spots.
(as soon as you see sparking/smoke, switch off!!!! :) :) )
Add a cup of cold water to protect the mag from self destruct.
Yeah, and doesn't it stink!
 
Ron Johnson wrote:
Sjouke Burry wrote:
Ron Johnson wrote:
William Sommerwerck wrote:
"Claude Hopper" <boobooililililil@roadrunner.com> wrote in message

Microwaves do not 'bounce around' in the oven. Microwaves are
directional, that's why you move the food. The microwave emitter
does not move.
Perhaps we should dub you "Clod Hopper". (Perhaps your posts are
jokes, and
you're waiting to see who's the first to "get it".)

Microwaves do, indeed, "bounce around" within the oven cavity. There is
usually a standing-wave pattern with hot and cold spots, which is the
main
reason for the turntable.

There`s a demonstration which I`ve seen, where a shallow plate of
something which looks like porridge is placed in a m/w and when the
oven is operated, you can see the wave pattern on the surface. I`ve
also seen it done with hundreds of neon lamps laid on the plater

The demonstration indicates nicely the hot spots and nulls in the
microwave coverage.

Ron
Put a cd in the mag, and the burn marks on the surface show the
wavelenght and hot/cool spots.
(as soon as you see sparking/smoke, switch off!!!! :) :) )
Add a cup of cold water to protect the mag from self destruct.

Yeah, and doesn't it stink!
Tssk!! wimp... ;)
 
Mark,

I didn't use a new pickup. The "original" is still up and running, it
just needed a new lens. To make sure that it has no other faults, I
swapped it with another one from a Sony-player I found laying around
in our workshop. The Sony played fine w/the Onkyo-pickup and the Onkyo
still showed the same behaviour. The DX uses a KSS210A while the Sony
is equipped w/a KSS150A. Should've mentioned that; shame on me.
Hopefully you've got another idea.

Best regards,
Lasse
 
Engineer wrote:
[...]advice on free or shareware software and other IT help?
I've not found a Usenet group that does this.

Here in the 21st Century,
learning to use a search engine is a useful skill:
http://groups.google.com/groups/search?q=ingroup:freeware

1. Word Processor[...]Openoffice[...]

Yup.

But my wife still need a way to open obsolete Wordperfect files

http://www.google.com/search?q=convert+WordPerfect&num=100
Again, learning to use a search engine is a useful skill.

3. Presentation grahics ([like] Powerpoint[...]Openoffice[...]

Yup and yup.

3. Business card software recommendations
(a Google search brings up a lot of trial ones - which is best?)

You will find the Boolean NOT operator to be useful.
http://www.google.com/search?q=Business.cards+GPL+-bootable+-CD+-Joomla+-Zimbra&strip=1

Anything that can retain the position of the stuff you put on the grid
will do for "page layout", no matter how small the "page".
Frankly, learning how to use a task-specific app for this seems
foolish.
OTOH, the general-purpose apps
OOo Draw, Inkscape, or Scribus (DTP) could do this.
All are GPL'd (gratis & libre).

4. IE for Internet (on XP CD)

While you're moving toward free,
you could get (gratis & libre) Firefox or SeaMonkey.
(AdBlock, FlashBlock, NoScript, etc.
make surfing MUCH less annoying.)

Getting a Free Software operating system
is something to think about as well. (Dual-boot to start?)
http://www.google.com/search?q=cache:CNeiS395cpgJ:https://shipit.kubuntu.org/+no.extra.cost+consider.downloading+request.CDs+registered+trademarks+FAQ+free.of.charge+delivery-may-take-*-*-*-*&strip=1

5. Email - all on Rogers-Yahoo webmail so no problem.

SeaMonkey or Thunderbird.
...and Gmail allows you to use your local client.

?
Roger

Puckdropper at dot wrote:
www.daniweb.com

That site appears to be for software/web developers.
I don't see a forum specific to any of the OP's topics.

There's a spot there for questions like yours,
and a whole bunch of people who are happy to answer them.

If that spot exists, it's not obvious.
A more specific link would have been nice.

FWIW, Office 2007 Student and Teacher Edition
has Word, Powerpoint, and Excel and is price at around $150.

That's $150 too much for commodity software apps.

In addition, I don't understand why people buy M$ products;
that money will be used AGAINST you
as Micros~1 purposely makes their products incompatible
--not only with competing products,
but **with it's own previous versions as well**
The MSFT attitude is
*Screw you if you don't buy into our perpetual-upgrade treadmill*.

It sounds like you make quite a bit of use of those types of programs,
so it's probably worth purchasing.

Disagree strongly.
The OP has already discovered that most non-vertical apps
are readily available as gratis offerings (free as in beer).
When you include the freedom of GPL,
Free Software (not just "freeware") is a no-brainer.
http://www.google.com/search?q=cache:vYwHVQAGkr8J:en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Open_source_software+inc+software.libre+without.restriction+501+tax+not.the.same.as+free.from.onerous.licensing.restrictions+zero.price+Open.source.and.free.software&strip=1#Open_source_software_versus_free_software

If the OP hasn't discovered it yet, he will eventually find that
some documents generated with previous versions of M$ software
can't be opened with the current version of M$'s software.
OTOH,
OpenOffice.org has a reputation for being able to open those files,
making it **more** M$-compatible than M$'s own apps
(depending on your definition of "compatible").[1]

OOo 3.0 (just released) also includes support for .docx, .xlsx, .pptx,
etc.
--MSFT's latest effort to (yet again) break compatibity.
..
..
[1] A recent "update" to M$Office
sought to "cure" the problem of lousy backwards-compatibility
by disabling support for the old file formats. 8-|

Screw Microsoft.
 
In case anyone reads this thread in the future: I replaced C305 [2.2 uf] in
the video circuit and all has been perfect for 1 week.

[Note: I didn't have a 2.2 uf around and used a pair of 1ufs in parallel.]

Thank you for your assistance.

--
Remove -NOSPAM- to contact me.
 
On 23 oct, 04:42, bpet...@verizon.net (Brad) wrote:
Hi,

I have a Philips TV model 20PT6245/37 (mfg 05/05) in my
service shop with a loss of vertical deflection. I do not have SM.

For a moment after the TV is turned on, there is some vertical deflection,
but it collapsed into a single horizontal line in the middle.

I checked solder joints at the vertical IC, resoldered them anyway, but
this had no effect. Note: I soldered other joints too. Flexing and tapping
on mother board has no effect.

I couldn't find pin out info on the vertical IC AN7225N on the
web so I could make additional tests.

Thanks in advance, Brad

Before you type your password, credit card number, etc.,
be sure there is no active keystroke logger (spyware) in your PC.
scan coil connections?
 
b wrote:
On 23 oct, 04:42, bpet...@verizon.net (Brad) wrote:

Hi,

I have a Philips TV model 20PT6245/37 (mfg 05/05) in my
service shop with a loss of vertical deflection. I do not have SM.

For a moment after the TV is turned on, there is some vertical deflection,
but it collapsed into a single horizontal line in the middle.

I checked solder joints at the vertical IC, resoldered them anyway, but
this had no effect. Note: I soldered other joints too. Flexing and tapping
on mother board has no effect.

I couldn't find pin out info on the vertical IC AN7225N on the
web so I could make additional tests.

Thanks in advance, Brad

Before you type your password, credit card number, etc.,
be sure there is no active keystroke logger (spyware) in your PC.


scan coil connections?
This may sound like an asinine statement how ever, with the weak
diagnostics described in the original post, how can one claim to be
a service repair man ?

What happen to the days of using component cooler on suspected parts
that obvious work at first, like in this post.

How about a service schematic, scope, DMM, Cap tester, ESR etc...


oh well..


http://webpages.charter.net/jamie_5"
 
<Preamp@web.de> wrote in message
news:8b84d228-a8e9-4c5e-a3a8-485a943e3667@k16g2000hsf.googlegroups.com...
Mark,

I didn't use a new pickup. The "original" is still up and running, it
just needed a new lens. To make sure that it has no other faults, I
swapped it with another one from a Sony-player I found laying around
in our workshop. The Sony played fine w/the Onkyo-pickup and the Onkyo
still showed the same behaviour. The DX uses a KSS210A while the Sony
is equipped w/a KSS150A. Should've mentioned that; shame on me.
Hopefully you've got another idea.

Best regards,
Lasse
You had said:

"> Here's what I've tried up to now:
- Changed the Pickup
- Changed the spindle motor
- Checked lubrication
- Checked FE and TE
- Checked the DC servos for spindle- and pickup-motor
OK, then. They weren't new parts. Muddies the water still. If the spindle
motor's platter height is off, focus will fail. The height at which the disc
sits is critical. Could have a clamping problem, and I've seen some Onkyo
models have a cracked wormscrew gear which caused erratic playing and
startup problems.

Mark Z.
 
If the spindle motor's platter height is off, focus will fail.
The new spindle motor came mounted on the supporting chassis with a
new
pulley already assembled. I think that the height is correct. Since
the player
behaves like before, the old motor should be still ok an not the cause
for the
problem.
How can I check the focus? AFAIK that's what the FE-Pin is for, but
there is
nothing to worry about. I've seen that signal clipping in other
players but that
is not the case here.

Could have a clamping problem
What is that?

I've seen some Onkyo models have a cracked wormscrew gear
which caused erratic playing and startup problems.
There is no wormscrew in this one...


Lasse
 
Thanks Franc .. I dont know which conection is B+ on this . It seems to
be a Wells Gardner monitor according to a website provided i an arcade
newsgroup .
 

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