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From: watches0937@global-replica-watch.com
Date: Sun, 20 Apr 2008 19:58:38 -0700 (PDT)
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[Eeyore]

Gareth Magennis wrote:

"Gareth Magennis" wrote
"EADGBE" wrote

In the interest of clarification, I have added some information to the
schematic of the tape deck headphone amp that I'm having problems
with.

Some circuit paths are now labeled:

http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff58/eadgbe123/amplifier-1.jpg

As always, the points at which voltage readings are marked with a star
are NOT producing the voltage indicated. The +7V location is
measuring 131mV instead. The other two points where a star is
indicated are measuring between 20mV and 30mV (fluctuating slightly).

I am starting to think that a circuit OUTSIDE of this circuit might be
at fault, because NOTHING inside of this circuit seems to be
faulty...but the darn thing still WILL NOT work.


Make sure your transistors are oriented the right way round, i.e. B,C & E
really are where you think they are. I remember once being stuck with a
repair where the lead out of a replacement transistor was not the same as
the original. Couldn't work out what the hell was going on for quite a
while, but C and E were reversed. (don't just use a diode check for this)


As an example: BC184

Centre base ('TO-18 style').

and BC184L

Base at one end.

have different pinouts.

Gareth.

 

[EADGBE]

William:

That was very good advice. In a way, I'm trying to do the same thing,
but from a "functional" standpoint as well.

In other words, I know what the expected voltages should be, but I
can't help thinking that if I knew how this circuit actually amplified
the signal, I would be in a better position to troubleshoot it, hence
my original request for good sources for learning electronic theory.
(Some of the sources that have been recommended so far seem to be
excellent, by the way.) Where exactly does the signal go?, what
should happen when it gets there?, etc. I believe that these are
questions that I should be able to answer.

So far, what I have is a collection of components that all seem to
test perfectly OK, but don't work, for some as-yet unknown reason.

 

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[JW]

Trying to repair a Keithley 616 with a bad ranging board. It needs two
parts. One is a dual channel J-FET and is marked ITS30092; the other is
an op-amp with the markings ITS6214. Does anyone know of a cross, or even
who the manufacturer is? (Must be before my time...)

Thanks for any help!

 

[Michael A. Terrell]

trader4@optonline.net wrote:

LOL Haven't you seen W_ in action before? This is one of his
standard rants repeated many times. According to W_ any damage from
lightning or surges MUST be do to HUMAN failure.

Yes, I've seen that, and more. That's why I refute his crap. If he
isn't refuted, people who don't know any better will believe him.


--
http://improve-usenet.org/index.html


Use any search engine other than Google till they stop polluting USENET
with porn and junk commercial SPAM

If you have broadband, your ISP may have a NNTP news server included in
your account: http://www.usenettools.net/ISP.htm

 

[VWWall]

Michael A. Terrell wrote:

trader4@optonline.net wrote:
LOL Haven't you seen W_ in action before? This is one of his
standard rants repeated many times. According to W_ any damage from
lightning or surges MUST be do to HUMAN failure.



Yes, I've seen that, and more. That's why I refute his crap. If he
isn't refuted, people who don't know any better will believe him.

Just ask him about using a 3 1/2 digit VOM to check out those lousy ATX
power supplies thet everyone is fostering on us. ;-)

--
Virg Wall

 

On Wed, 07 May 2008 12:05:28 -0700, VWWall <vwall@large.invalid>
wrote:

Michael A. Terrell wrote:
trader4@optonline.net wrote:
LOL Haven't you seen W_ in action before? This is one of his
standard rants repeated many times. According to W_ any damage from
lightning or surges MUST be do to HUMAN failure.



Yes, I've seen that, and more. That's why I refute his crap. If he
isn't refuted, people who don't know any better will believe him.

Just ask him about using a 3 1/2 digit VOM to check out those lousy ATX
power supplies thet everyone is fostering on us. ;-)

Or his statements about how lightning strikes exactly once every 8
years. He's got a whole repertoire of these beauties. I no longer see
his posts unless they are quoted in someone else's replies, as I
filter all posts in alt.home.repair that come from googlegroups. I
really don't miss him, as he just endlessly repeats the same garbage
that he's been spewing for a decade on usenet. He's a complete kook.

 

[Michael A. Terrell]

salty@dog.com wrote:

Or his statements about how lightning strikes exactly once every 8
years. He's got a whole repertoire of these beauties. I no longer see
his posts unless they are quoted in someone else's replies, as I
filter all posts in alt.home.repair that come from googlegroups. I
really don't miss him, as he just endlessly repeats the same garbage
that he's been spewing for a decade on usenet. He's a complete kook.

Not quite complete. He's still breathing.


--
http://improve-usenet.org/index.html


Use any search engine other than Google till they stop polluting USENET
with porn and junk commercial SPAM

If you have broadband, your ISP may have a NNTP news server included in
your account: http://www.usenettools.net/ISP.htm

 

[Michael A. Terrell]

VWWall wrote:

Michael A. Terrell wrote:
trader4@optonline.net wrote:
LOL Haven't you seen W_ in action before? This is one of his
standard rants repeated many times. According to W_ any damage from
lightning or surges MUST be do to HUMAN failure.



Yes, I've seen that, and more. That's why I refute his crap. If he
isn't refuted, people who don't know any better will believe him.

Just ask him about using a 3 1/2 digit VOM to check out those lousy ATX
power supplies thet everyone is fostering on us. ;-)

He's no better at choosing a meter than he is at thinking.


--
http://improve-usenet.org/index.html


Use any search engine other than Google till they stop polluting USENET
with porn and junk commercial SPAM

If you have broadband, your ISP may have a NNTP news server included in
your account: http://www.usenettools.net/ISP.htm

 

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I plug in my land line phone and I phone somebody.How can I record our
phone conversation and play it back so I can listen to what my voice
sounds like on the phone? Of course I know I would need to first ask the
person I phone to agree with our recorded phone onversation, I am pretty
sure the person would agree.
cuhulin

 

[Jamie]

tx7123@yahoo.com wrote:

On May 3, 5:19 pm, "Mark D. Zacharias" <mzachar...@nonsense.net
wrote:

tx7...@yahoo.com> wrote in message

news:92dc789c-7188-460c-aed3-e3df24b80df4@x41g2000hsb.googlegroups.com...
I have left the case open, and have the thing sitting on a shelf
vertically.
It worked flawlessly for about 3 days, then spontaneouslt theradio
went dead again.
I ever so gently tapped the heatsink that this transistor is on, and
once
again everything is fine. I have not lifted the board yet to look at
the solder
underneath. However I'm beginning to think that it is the transistor
itself
that is the problem. Can I find the exact replacement atradioshack?
If I'm going to lift the board, I'm thinking it's probably makes sense
to replace the
device.

Thanks

On Apr 29, 2:32 am, "JANA" <j...@NOSPAMca.inter.net> wrote:






I strongly suggest you find and fix the cold solder connection that
caused the fault. Or if the transistor is intermittant, replace it.

--

JANA
_____

tx7...@yahoo.com> wrote in message

news:a60fee7d-739c-427d-bf6c-301464aa4ceb@k37g2000hsf.googlegroups.com...
OK I took the thing apart and sure enough, there was a sanyo 313E
mounted on a V shaped piece of metal(heatsink?). When I tapped
gently on the metal, everything now works fine.
The small board in question is AWR-011A, which according
to the schematic is the power supply unit.
I would think that if this was the roblem it would effect
everything, not just theradio.
Anyway I will run it for awhile with the case open,
and see if the problem recurs.

On Apr 26, 11:50 am, "Bob Shuman" <no_spam_...@sbcglobal.net> wrote:

Sounds like something is intermittent in theradiosection (assumes
amplifier/auxiliary input/tape/etc. all are still working fine). I'd
start
by looking for cold/broken solder connections under a magnifying. Or
alternatively, if that does not work and you can get at the board
safely
while the unit is powered up, you can try pushing at various points
with a
wooden dowel or similar non-conductive item. This may help you isolate
the
area to take a closer look.

If these do not help, then you'll either need a schematic, a volt
meter,
scope, and some troubleshooting skills to check the power supply
voltages at
key points and then follow the signal through theradiosection or
take it
to someone to do the work for you.

Bob

tx7...@yahoo.com> wrote in message

news:facbbdcd-1b25-4648-a91b-6c409b7924d8@56g2000hsm.googlegroups.com...

I have apioneersx-727receiver, I'm the original owner (33 years).
Recently theradiostopped working.
Everything else works great.
FM, AM no difference does NOT work.
The tuning meter does not move as I turn the tuning dial.
If I turn the volume up, I can hear some static thru the speakers.
Occasionally theradiowill spontaneously work for a while,
and then return to this dead mode.
All the other inputs cd, turntable work fine.
Any ideas what the problem might be?
Thanks.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Just resolder the transistor. You will see that the solder connections there
have ring cracks from age and heating / cooling over the course of time.
Common problem.

Mark Z.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -


Hi ,

I decided to lift the board and look at the solder for the device
sanyo 313e.
Before I could do anything the V shaped metal (heatsink?) attached to
the
device just fell off. The plastic screw holding it had just cracked in
half.
There also is a thin piece of plastic between the device and the
heatsink.
I'm assuming that they do want the device to touch the metal.
I could not find a another plastic screw, so I use a metal one with
an
insulating washer. I hope that is ok. Why does the device need to be
insulated from the metal heatsink. Is it strictly pecautionary, in
case
the heatsink comes in contact with something else. Would it be ok
to put some cpu grease between the device and the plastic insulator?
Anyway after all this the solder looked ok, so I did not resolder.
I wonder if my problem all along was that the heatsink
was just hanging on by a thread.
Anyway it seems to work ok. I'll run it for a while with the case
open
as a precaution.

Thanks
The metal back plane of the component most likely has connection to one

of the electrical pins which can not be shorted to the case.
this is common.


http://webpages.charter.net/jamie_5"

 

[Ablang]

The only reason Sharp isn't listed here is because they fail
so radically by computer failure, catching on fire, etc. etc.
that no-one has the piece of crap things fixed due to the cost
of getting "hopefully" one more year out of a dead dog.

They ALWAYS fail shortly after warranty.


-----Original Message-----

Look what they say about it.

http://www.consumerreports.org/cro/appliances/kitchen-appliances/microwave-ovens/reports/repairs-reliability/brand-repair-history/index.htm

The graph shows the percentage of the following brands of over-the-
range (OTR) microwave ovens bought between 2003 through 2007 that have
ever been repaired or had a serious problem. Differences of less than
3 points are not meaningful. KitchenAid has been the most-repair prone
brand. While we lacked enough data for all years to include Sharp in
the chart, we have sufficient data to conclude that it has been a
repair-prone brand. Models within a brand may vary, and changes in
design or manufacture may affect reliability. Still, choosing a brand
with a good repair history can improve your odds of getting a reliable
model.

 

[Bruce in Bangkok]

On 14 May 2008 01:35:23 GMT, phil-news-nospam@ipal.net wrote:

In alt.engineering.electrical Don Kelly <dhky@shaw.ca> wrote:
| ----------------------------
| "daestrom" <daestrom@NO_SPAM_HEREtwcny.rr.com> wrote in message
| news:4828b193$0$7075$4c368faf@roadrunner.com...
|
|> <phil-news-nospam@ipal.net> wrote in message
|> news:g0a7ts1t0c@news5.newsguy.com...
|>> In alt.engineering.electrical Michael Moroney
|>> <moroney@world.std.spaamtrap.com> wrote:
|
|>> | Are the load tap generators configured make-before-break?
|>> | Break-before-make would mean a (very short) power outage every
|>> activation
|>> | but make-before-break would mean a momentarily short-circuited winding
|>> and
|>> | the break would involve interrupting a large short circuit current.
|
|>> I wonder how much regulation could be managed through the use of variable
|>> leakage inductance in the transformer windings.
|
|
|> I suppose you could, but increasing leakage inductance means you're
|> increasing losses aren't you? Just a percent or two on a unit rated for
|> 250 MVA can be too much to tolerate.
|
|> daestrom
| -------------
| I don't see changing leakage inductance having much effect on losses ( a
| great effect on voltage regulation -likely all to the bad) but the problem
| is one of changing leakage inductance.
| Does this mean changing a gap in the core? Does it mean moving one winding
| with respect to another? In any case it does mean some fiddling with the
| core or winding.

The thought is to change the core in some way. Maybe that can be done in a
gradual way, as opposed to winding taps that have to be either BtM or MtB.


| This has been done for series lighting circuits where the load current was
| kept constant by using a transformer which balanced the forces between coils
| against a fixed weight. If the current changed the secondary coil moved so
| that there was more or less leakage. The units that I have seen were rather
| cumbersome.

I'm thinking more along the lines of a motor drive to move the coil, and
that be controlled by the same authority that would have controlled the
steppable taps.

Some years ago I worked at an Air Base in Northern Thailand. the
airfield lighting was a constant current series circuit and used
transformer as you describe - a movable core winding that was driven
in and out of the outer windings by a motor controlled by a current
sensing system.

I believe that street light systems are similar.

Bruce-in-Bangkok
(correct Address is bpaige125atgmaildotcom)

 

[Thomas Tornblom]

phil-news-nospam@ipal.net writes:

In alt.engineering.electrical Thomas Tornblom <thomas@hax.se> wrote:

| Residential power in Norway is normally 230V three phase btw, instead
| of 400V three phase. Their 230V outlets are two phase and ground
| instead of one phase, neutral and ground. Their three phase outlets
| therefore are blue instead of red and have four prongs instead of five.

Is this the system where the voltage is 133 volts relative to ground and 230
volts between phases (and formerly 127 volts relative to ground and 220 volts
between phases)?

Yes.

If they still use that system, then I'm interested in buying a UPS designed
for that. But it is my understanding it is phased out in cities and hard to
find anymore in rural locations.

It seems they are moving to 400V as well, but I know many Norwegians
are paying a hefty premium on their three phase equipment, like
heatpumps.

My heatpump use an internally star configured 3x400V compressor, and
it would have been easy to wire it for 3x230V if they had brought out
all the leads.

 

[Sam Goldwasser]

Jerry <jerry_maple@hotmail.com> writes:

On May 13, 10:01 pm, Ablang <ron...@gmail.com> wrote:
The only reason Sharp isn't listed here is because they fail
so radically by computer failure, catching on fire, etc. etc.
that no-one has the piece of crap things fixed due to the cost
of getting "hopefully" one more year out of a dead dog.

They ALWAYS fail shortly after warranty.

Not true, mine failed WAY before the warranty was up! <G

Actually, mine was an assembly problem. The flex circuit contact pad
underneath the 4 little jellybean-sized exterior buttons was
misaligned, causing the pressing of the Start button to be a very hit-
or-miss proposition. Flex circuit pad replaced and correctly aligned
under warranty.

I'm still waiting for the infamous post-warranty-display-failure.

The problem with Sharp warranty service is that it's difficult to find
a repair shop that will fix them under warranty. Out of the 5 or 6
warranty service providers listed on the Sharp website for the Phoenix
area, I only found 1 that would do microwave warranty service.
Comments from the other shops indicated that they had big problems
getting paid by Sharp for warranty work.

I guess they've gone downhill....

I have a Sharp Carousel II (not built-in) from 1987 that's still fine,
hasn't needed repairs.

--- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/
Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/
+Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/lasersam.htm
| Mirror Sites: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/F_mirror.html

Important: Anything sent to the email address in the message header above is
ignored unless my full name AND either lasers or electronics is included in the
subject line. Or, you can contact me via the Feedback Form in the FAQs.

 

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