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On Feb 13, 6:14 am, "Only Just" <ifixit2@hotmail(dot)com> wrote:
"Donna Ohl, Grady Volunteer Coordinator" <donna....@sbcglobal.net> wrote in
messagenews:p6xsj.587$fX7.417@nlpi061.nbdc.sbc.com...





On Wed, 13 Feb 2008 06:16:38 GMT, Donna Ohl, Grady Volunteer Coordinator
wrote:
The math is all spelled out for us in the PDF at:
http://tinyurl.com/38eh4d
http://www.gamanet.org/gama/inforesources.nsf/vAttachmentLaunch/C2AAF...

Since almost all of us were dead wrong on this one, it would be nice if
someone can read that reference document and check my calculations

PLEASE DOUBLECHECK THESE HOT-WATER-HEATER CALCULATIONS!

Here are the necessary calculations I believe we need to make in order to
compare two gas-fired water heaters. All calculations are courtesy of the
referenced PDF and charts atwww.gamanet.orgexcept the energy costs which
are courtesy of PG&E athttp://www.pge.com/tariffs/pdf/G-1.pdf

In reality, these calculations would need to be done for at least a
half-dozen different water heaters (two each from Lowes, Sears, and Home
Depot, for example) in order to properly choose an available water heater
intelligently.

For simplicity, I'll use the values I plugged into the calculations for my
home; yours may differ but the mathematical approach is exactly the same..
0. Calculate minimum legal efficiency (EF)
1. Calculate maximum peak-hour requirements (FHR)
2. Calculate total installed price ($/installation)
3. Calculate yearly operating costs ($/year)
4. Calculate payback period (months/installation)

Here are my calculations.
PLEASE CHECK FOR ERRORS OR OMISSIONS AS WE ALL ARE LEARNING FROM THIS!

0. Calculate the minimum energy factor required by federal & local law:
(based on October 1990 Dept. of Energy Test Procedure for Water Heaters as
published in the May 11, 1998 Federal Register.)

For gas-fired residential water heaters, the minimum energy factor is:
Minimum EF for 40-gallon water heaters = 0.67 - 0.0019 * 40 = 0.58
Minimum EF for 50-gallon water heaters = 0.67 - 0.0019 * 50 = 0.59

Note: Southern California uses different legal minimum numbers than
northern California so be advised to modify the calculation for your area!

1. Determine your peak requirements:
20 gallons per shower x 2 showers in one hour = 40 gallons per hour
20 gallons per bath x 0 baths in one hour = 0 gallons per hour
2 gallons per shave x 0 shaves in that hour = 0 additional gallons
4 gallons per personal wash x 0 = 0 additional gallons
4 gallons per shampoo x 0 = 0 additional gallons (do it in the shower)
4 gallons per hand dishwashing x 0 dishes = 0 gallons
14 gallons per dishwasher load x 1 load = 14 additional peak gallons
5 gallons per food preparation x 1 meal = 5 additional gallons
26 gallons per wringer wash x 1 load = 26 additional peak gallons
32 gallons per automatic wash x 0 loads = 0 additional peak gallons
-----
TOTAL PEAK GALLONS = 40 + 14 + 5 + 26 = 85 gallons First Hour Rating

2. Determine price installed (inclusive):
Sears 33154 is $882 ($449 for the heater + $433 for full installation)
HD 183-717 is $747 ($349 for the heater + $398 for full installation)

3. Determine yearly operating costs given your basal energy unit, FHR, EF,
and average-use assumption.

For simplification, I'll only compare two heaters but the calculator we
create needs to cover at least a few at a time. I did this in Excel for
current northern California baseline (Schedule G-1 Residential Service)
energy rates.

CHOICE A:
Sears 33154 (marketed as Kenmore but made by AO Smith) FHR=97 EF=0.63
(41,045 btu/0.63)($1.21106/therm * 1 therm/100,000 btu) x 365 = $288/year

CHOICE B:
Home Depot 183-717 (marketed as GE but made by Rheem) FHR=80 EF=0.58
(41,045 btu/0.58)($1.21106/therm * 1 therm/100,000 btu) x 365 = $313/year

Note: Irrelevant specs would have been tank size, burner BTUs, gallons to
recovery to 90 degrees in one hour, etc. as the only figures that matter
for the calculations are the EF and the FHR since they take into account
all other design-size specifications such as those you quoted.)

4. Determine payback period:
a. Additional cost of more efficient model = $882 - $747 = $135
b. Annual savings of more efficient model = $313 - $288 = $25 per year
c. Payback period = $135 / $25 * 365 / 30 =  65 months (5.4 years)

5. Determine overall savings:
The two water heaters compared in this simplified calcuation would be
equivalent in overall costs at approximately 5 and a half years.

Considering the average water heater lasts 13 years, total savings for the
more expensive yet more economical heater would be:

(13 years - 5.4 years) * $25/year = $190 savings overall

6. Choose the correct water heater:

Based on the math everyone should perform when selecting the proper water
heater, I would buy the Sears 33154, which will save me almost 200 dollars
over its lifetime over the Home Depot 183-717 assuming current energy
prices and average usage.

Note: In reality, one needs to compare at least a half-dozen water
heaters;
here I only compared two for simplicity. I knew none of these calculations
just two days ago, so, PLEASE CHECK MY NUMBERS after reading the reference
document I refer to.

If the numbers hold water, then this should go into the alt.home.repair
FAQ
for everyone to benefit from all our efforts to understand how to properly
size & select a home water heater replacement (yes, I know there are
physical size issues also but this tutorial is already too long to go into
those details).

Donna

This is all very good but can you trust the figures given by the
manufacturers as these are often derived by engineer calculations and
marketing guru's and are manipulated to suit their agenda.
an example of this is how many people ever get the rated fuel consumption as
stated by any vehicle manufacturers, also appliance manufactures have
devised ways of confusing the figures to get a better rating that it
actually uses. The best way to purchase the water system is to get one that
suits your requirements as in size and water capacity.
Justy.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

No, the tests are done per EPA rules and specs by an independent
testing lab.

Now, on the other hand, those tests are performed under a certain set
of criteria based on an estimate of how the water heater would
actually be used. I would say the difference in how someone will
actually uses it in practice as compared to how it was tested, could
easily outweigh small differences in the recorded test data under the
controlled conditions. I would bet that a heater rated at an eff of .
61 vs one at .58 could easily be a wash or even upside down in actual
use. Same thing for the first hour rating.

In other words, over analyzing this whole thing is likely a waste of
time. Even the above payback analysis is flawed, because it ignores
the time value of money. Laying out $135 today and getting it back
over the next 6 years doesn't account for the fact that the money
could be earning a return. Or if you put the heater on a credit card
and pay interest, even for a short time, and the perceived savings are
gone. Take any of that into account and the difference between these
heaters shrinks.
 
FOR ME I bought a 50 gallon tank since it was the largest that would
fit, with a high output burner to minimize running out of hot water,
the warranty is on high output tanks is 7 years. could of got a 12
year tank but I prefered more hot water over longer warranty which is
generally pro rated anyway and replacement usually based on list price
rather than sale price.


sometimes a tank on sale is cheaper than the same tank warranty
replaced.

minor $$$ savings are just that minor, like some fret buying a new
tank, to me its a low enough cost, like one candy bar a week who
cares,

bottom line i just want lots of nice hot water. costs are way below in
priority
 
Sears 33154 (marketed as Kenmore but made by AO Smith) FHR=97 EF=0.63
(41,045 btu/0.63)($1.21106/therm * 1 therm/100,000 btu) x 365 = $288/year

Home Depot 183-717 (marketed as GE but made by Rheem) FHR=80 EF=0.58
(41,045 btu/0.58)($1.21106/therm * 1 therm/100,000 btu) x 365 = $313/year
I read the article you referenced at
http://www.waterheaterrescue.com/pages/WHRpages/English/Longevity/water-heater-preventive-maintenance.html

It doesn't say WHERE the 41,045 BTU number cames from.

What is this "magic" number of 41,045 BTU?
 
On Feb 13, 12:46 am, "Donna Ohl, Grady Volunteer Coordinator"
<donna....@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
Does this calculation look right to you?
240 therms/year * 1 year/41,045,000 btu * 100,000 btu/1 therm = .58

The part of the math that escapes me is why this calculation uses 1,000
times the BTUs per year than the previous calculations. Any idea?
Why do you use 41,045 BTU in one calculation when you have the EF in
hand and 41,045,000 BTU in the reverse calculation when you're trying
to determine the EF?

What is this "magic" number 41.045 anyway?
 
I read the article you referenced athttp://www.waterheaterrescue.com/pages/WHRpages/English/Longevity/wat...

It doesn't say WHERE the 41,045 BTU number cames from.

What is this "magic" number of 41,045 BTU?
Wrong reference.
http://www.waterheaterrescue.com/images/DayAndNight3.jpg

The right reference is
http://www.gamanet.org/gama/inforesources.nsf/vContentEntries/Product+Directories?OpenDocument

The document that has that calculation is
http://www.gamanet.org/gama/inforesources.nsf/vAttachmentLaunch/C2AAFB8D41D003F485256E9000607F66/$FILE/12-07-gas-rwh.pdf

But it still doesn't say where the "magic" 41,045 BTU comes from.
 
having only 1 heater leak before the warranty ran out, and as far as i
know its still a pro rata warranty....

number of installed months, vs number of warranteed months, gives a
percentage, thats then applied to a brand new similiar heater at full
list price

on that one heater the sale price was less than the pro rata price,
kinda mad i bought my new one somewhere else........

warrantys are sales tools, they rarely help the purchaser much. wheres
your original invoice? company like sears might no longer be in
business in 8 years.........

just look at all the retailers who have goine out of business over the
years.....

a warranty from builders square or hechinger isnt worth the paper its
written on........

the BTU # is from the manufacturer, they vary from under 30,000 BTU to
75,000 BTU on my current tank.

higher btus cost more to build, better stronger burner and heavier
tank to take the added heat.
 
On Feb 13, 11:54 am, "hall...@aol.com" <hall...@aol.com> wrote:
the BTU # is from the manufacturer, they vary from under 30,000 BTU to
75,000 BTU on my current tank.
I can't say that I know what the 41,045 BTU is in the calculation but
it can't be different for different gas burners because it's the same
number no matter what gas heater you use.

So it must be some kind of other "magic" number.
 
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In article <ftierj$4rj$1@usenet01.srv.cis.pitt.edu>,
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In article <1207744078_292@isp.n>, default <default@defaulter.net> wrote:

On Sun, 06 Apr 2008 13:24:44 -0700, Joerg
notthisjoergsch@removethispacbell.net> wrote:

Michael A. Terrell wrote:
John Fields wrote:
Better yet, make it the subject and crosspost it to a few groups.


I like this one: Use any search engine other than Google till they
stop polluting USENET with porn and junk commercial SPAM


Good idea. Which one would be as good as Google?

http://www.scroogle.org/cgi-bin/scraper.htm Ain't half bad. Google
without the crap.

Clusty and Ask.com are pretty good too

I'm getting neat suggestions.

Here was my list of the majors

Google
Yahoo
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ASK
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Netscape AOL

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Arfa

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On Apr 17, 6:35 am, Heinz Schmitz <HeinzSchm...@gmx.net> wrote:
EricM wrote:
BTW, what is connectors 2 on CR4 and CR5?
Does somebody switch from 8 to 2 at some point?

The 1N1239 was a replacement for the
5R4 vacuum tube rectifier;

Oh, that explains it. Then the 5R4 ist a directly heated rectifier
tube and the 5 Volts AC are the heater power. This is, you may
disconnect 12 and 13 from the mains transformer when usingseleniumor other semiconductor rectifiers.

I also located another online vendor that
sells 'C-Cap' rectifier replacements and he states that his 5R4
replacement should work. I'm debating whether or not to order some to
test though,

Investments into faulty equipment mostly turn out wrong, if a sound
reason for the purchase is not present :).

And essentially what the relay does, is shunt resistor R5,

To give the amp tubes time to heat up before anode etc power is
applied. Very reasonable.

as pins 2
and 8 seem to be looped no matter what position the relay is in. This
one is really a pain - I've never encountered a PS like this one...

It looks quite ok once we understand everything :).

Now, once the power supply seems to be ok, I would follow the 600 V
wiring into the amp with an Ohm-Meter and try to locate a low
resitance to ground.
Next I would check all anode-to-grid caps like eg C19 at V8b. If some
of those leak, the grid will not be negative enough and anode current
will go through the roof.
I'd disconnect T2 on the primary side and measure the resistance of
the windings and the resistance to ground, to prove that the
transformer is still ok.

Well, much everything like in a common radio repair :).

Regards,
H.
Actually made some progress. Yes, a previous poster was correct that
my understanding is "sketchy" :) That's why I'm posting here...

I didn't replace the large Sarkes Tarzians, but did replace the
selenium stacks. I do intend to put 5R4's back in the PS for
rectifiers though, as due to their age they may be contributing to the
overvoltage in the 600V circuit (i.e. reading 900+ when all's supposed
to be present is around 600). Have since found out from another tech
that the silicon's I used elsewhere in the PS circuit are no problem
since they're not part of the HV circuit, and their output voltages
under load measure normal. Will add a small dropping resistor though
to prevent damage to the tubes. One problem was that there was a cap
in the 600V circuit on the amp side that was conducting - basically a
600V to ground. Not good, and was causing the fuse to blow. Replaced
it and got the amp functioning and not blowing fuses, but after
applying a test signal from a tone generator, something 'opened' and I
am getting some 60 hz buzz in the output, which I think might be one
or both of the two 80/450 caps in the power supply that were damaged
by the fuse blowing several times during troubleshooting. In
addition, I did find that two other caps in the amp were getting bad
(old can electrolytics) - made "new" ones and things got better, but
still 'buzzing'. I also suspect some of the old can caps (lower
voltages) in the power supply in addition to the large 450V units, as
at this point there isn't anything else in the amp that is old and
could be shorting or leaking. All of the signal caps have been
replaced with Auricaps. Been a lot of work, but I think I'm close to
completing the project.
 
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From: watches0907@global-replica-watch.com
Date: Sun, 20 Apr 2008 10:38:55 -0700 (PDT)
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