Toshiba TV29C90 problem; Image fades to black...

[Tzortzakakis Dimitrios]

? "bud--" <remove.budnews@isp.com> ?????? ??? ??????
news:dfc8$486272a6$4213ea63$28461@DIALUPUSA.NET...

A. K. SEPUT wrote:
"bud--" <remove.budnews@isp.com> wrote in message
news:4d945$485bca07$4213ea6f$21451@DIALUPUSA.NET...
Daniel Who Wants to Know wrote:
Also I am no expert here but I think intermittent loads can exceed the
80% rule hence the 14 gauge cord which would normally only be good for
15 amps but is protected by a 20 amp fuse inside the oven and a 20 amp
double pole circuit breaker in the service panel.
.
The US NEC allows about any cord of 2 conductors (not including ground)
to be used at 18A. Most (all?) cords with type starting H (hard use) can
be used at 20A.

"for short period and with limited lenght"
.
I see neither limitation in the US NEC.
.
The 80% rule is for continuous loads - over 3 hours.


--
Correct. #14 is the same as Europe's 4 mm^2-which we usually use here in

Greece for the regular, 4 kW hot water heaters. It's rated for 20 A
continuous duty when in a conduit with 1 live conductor (IIRC), we don't
have extensions in that gauge. We usually protect it with an 20 A circuit
breaker (single pole, aka automatic fuse) and a double pole circuit breaker
(aka switch) which is not automatic, just to turn on off the water heater.
There are 3kW heating elements, too, for older installations, which are
quite incapable of sustaining a 4kW load.



--
Tzortzakakis Dimitrios
major in electrical engineering
mechanized infantry reservist
hordad AT otenet DOT gr

 

[Charles]

"DaveM" <masondg4499@comcast99.net> wrote in message
news:4tWdnY98q4JTdP_VnZ2dnUVZ_vzinZ2d@comcast.com...

"Charles" <charlesschuler@comcast.net> wrote in message
news8ydnR4iSvluSv_VnZ2dnUVZ_q_inZ2d@comcast.com...


"Dave M" <masondg4xx4@cxxomcast.net> wrote in message
news:djg464ll3gsf9r0k9rmd2gopjg7aciapoj@4ax.com...
On Sun, 8 Jun 2008 05:31:13 -0700 (PDT), "Dwight D. Eisenhower"
rottedHonda@yahoo.com> wrote:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=140239498250&ssPageName=STRK:MESE:IT&ih=004


Hey, I have one of these guys in my junque box.. Anybody have a
schematic or
documentation of any kind for it? Seems like it worked the last time I
used it,
but never had any documentation on it. It's really a pretty nice curve
tracer... might put it back on the bench when I get a small, cheap scope
to hook
it to (permanently).

The schematic was originally in the GE transistor handbook. 40 + years
ago.


Which edition of the GE transistor handbook was that schematic in? I have
a copy of the 7th edition (ca. 1964), but there's nothing even remotely
resembling a curve tracer in that manual.

Jud Williams paid me a visit and was nice enough to leave a curve tracer as
a gift! Many moons ago. He said that he did not "design" his curve tracer
from scratch but did use a schematic from the GE handbook. That's all I
remember. Sorry.

 

[GregS]

In article <387aec17-23c7-472c-a035-0c3ba4394ec7@59g2000hsb.googlegroups.com>, dke3591 <dke3591@yahoo.com> wrote:

Hi,

I had to spray into the pots and slide switches of a portable and a
clock radio as they were getting mighty scratchy and cutting out when
adjusting volume. Of course, some leaked onto the outside plastic case
around the controls, leaving a small area of foggy whitish on the
black case. I noticed wiping the area with a damp cloth restores the
color for about 5 seconds, and then back to the foggy white when the
water evaporates. What can I use to safely remove the foggy residue.
I used Tech Spray Envi-ro-tech 1677. Strange it looks OK when it looks
wet. Thanks much.

Auto polish ?

Should have used 1667

greg

 

[N Cook]

William Sommerwerck <grizzledgeezer@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:ke2dnWbJBYvGV_XVnZ2dnUVZ_jWdnZ2d@comcast.com...

You need a remote control with the PIP function.

It's interesting you brought this up, because I was just about to discuss
the fact that many remotes lack critical functions. For example, I've
never
found a universal remote that accesses the fancy features of my Toshiba
CZ-3299K. (Indeed, none of them support the 0 button!) It appears this is
because Toshiba failed or refused to supply these codes to Sony, GE, etc.

I will be contacting Toshiba shortly.

Good luck finding the remote you need. You probably won't.

How easy would it be to do something like the following for these too common
situations

IR detector reading the shrouded output of the non-universal remote, set up
with one of the main operational codes for the kit in question.
Gate out the function coding, leaving the ident code and gate in a fully
variable
pre-settable pulse sequence instead.
Buffer and output the recombination to another IR diode until you hit on a
functional auxiliary code and save that on a learing "universal" remote.

--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/

 

[N_Cook]

William Sommerwerck <grizzledgeezer@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:ke2dnWbJBYvGV_XVnZ2dnUVZ_jWdnZ2d@comcast.com...

You need a remote control with the PIP function.

It's interesting you brought this up, because I was just about to discuss
the fact that many remotes lack critical functions. For example, I've
never
found a universal remote that accesses the fancy features of my Toshiba
CZ-3299K. (Indeed, none of them support the 0 button!) It appears this is
because Toshiba failed or refused to supply these codes to Sony, GE, etc.

I will be contacting Toshiba shortly.

Good luck finding the remote you need. You probably won't.

How easy would it be to do something like the following for these too common
situations

IR detector reading the shrouded output of the non-universal remote, set up
with some of the main operational codes for the kit in question.
Gate out the function codes, leaving the ident code and gate in a fully
pre-settable pulse sequence instead.
Buffer and output the recombination to another IR diode until you hit on a
functional auxiliary code and save that on a learing "universal" remote.

--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/

 

[N_Cook]

William Sommerwerck <grizzledgeezer@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:ke2dnWbJBYvGV_XVnZ2dnUVZ_jWdnZ2d@comcast.com...

You need a remote control with the PIP function.

It's interesting you brought this up, because I was just about to discuss
the fact that many remotes lack critical functions. For example, I've
never
found a universal remote that accesses the fancy features of my Toshiba
CZ-3299K. (Indeed, none of them support the 0 button!) It appears this is
because Toshiba failed or refused to supply these codes to Sony, GE, etc.

I will be contacting Toshiba shortly.

Good luck finding the remote you need. You probably won't.

How easy would it be to do something like the following for these too common
situations

IR detector reading the shrouded output of the non-universal remote, set up
with some of the main operational codes for the kit in question.
Gate out the function codes, leaving the ident code and gate in a fully
pre-settable pulse sequence instead.
Buffer and output the recombination to another IR diode until you hit on a
functional auxiliary code and save that on a learing "universal" remote.

--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/

 

[Mark D. Zacharias]

"John Hudak" <jhudak@sei.cmu.edu> wrote in message
news:g4b60l$vps$1@usenet02.sei.cmu.edu...

Hi:
The vertical deflection went out on my TV a few days ago. It started
acting funny a few days prior to it going out altogether. I'd turn the
set on and the thin horizontal line would appear, then fully deflect, and
oscillate back a forth a few times, sometimes staying a line for a min or
two, then deflect to full screen, etc. Now it just stays on as a thin
horizontal like across the screen, about 1/8" thick.

Are there any things prone to failure in this set that I should look at?
OR, any common problems with this set in general? e.g. bad solder joints
around?
Thanks for any insight!
John

Solder connections - if the ouput IC hasn't blown by now. Sometimes if you
put it off, the things blow up.

Mark Z.

 

"Timelord" <timelord@cpbbs.synchro.net.remove-1008-this> wrote:

"me" <me@privacy.net> wrote in message

Don't let it bother you; it is just human nature. We judge things
by our own experiences. If, say, 90% of ebay customers have no
problems and 10% get screwed, those in the 90% naturally tend to
dismiss claims by the 10%. Your story is credible and matches the
stories told by others in similar situations.

There you go again sorry no Sam I repeat You did not send
the original emails so I cant judge if it is real or not...
you really need to reconsider what you are saying

No I don't. *You* do. He clearly stated "The letter came via
the ebay internal mail system as well as to my email address."
Unless he is just a total liar (and if he is you would be stupid
to trust any copy of an email he sent you; he could simply edit
a legit email from ebay if he is a liar) that proves that your
"it was a fake email that fooled you" theory is wrong.

It would be refreshing if you were to admit that you were wrong,
but this being the Internet I won't hold my breath.

 

[Smitty Two]

In article
<387aec17-23c7-472c-a035-0c3ba4394ec7@59g2000hsb.googlegroups.com>,
dke3591 <dke3591@yahoo.com> wrote:

Hi,

I had to spray into the pots and slide switches of a portable and a
clock radio as they were getting mighty scratchy and cutting out when
adjusting volume. Of course, some leaked onto the outside plastic case
around the controls, leaving a small area of foggy whitish on the
black case. I noticed wiping the area with a damp cloth restores the
color for about 5 seconds, and then back to the foggy white when the
water evaporates. What can I use to safely remove the foggy residue.
I used Tech Spray Envi-ro-tech 1677. Strange it looks OK when it looks
wet. Thanks much.

Oil. Any kind will work, but I use olive oil. A very, very, very light
coating is all you need.

 

[GMAN]

In article <g4b4ok$vo5$1@usenet02.sei.cmu.edu>, John Hudak <jhudak@sei.cmu.edu> wrote:

GMAN wrote:
In article <8occ64d3r1d93t7ismtbilufjjfhlcvtcr@4ax.com>, Jim Adney
jadney@vwtype3.org> wrote:
On Sat, 28 Jun 2008 08:06:11 GMT glenzabr@xmission.com (GMAN) wrote:

Anyone know where to find the foam material that is used for filters. The
kind
you would use behind computer fans and the like to catch dust. I need to
make
some custom filters for a few 120mm fans, Is there some place that sells it
by
the sheet or rolls?
Hardware stores often have sheets of open foam filter material for air
conditioner filters. It's a couple square feet, about 1/8" thick, and
easily cut to size with scissors.

-



I tried Home Depot and Lowes no luck. I will try around at some smaller
stores
like ACE if i can find one locally. I cant believe its this hard to find the
stuff.


Did you look at the (cheap) furnace filters? Most HW stores sell the
very cheap fiber filters (e.g. blue or green fiber) for something like
$2 for a 20"x20" filter. You can take one of these apart very easily
because the frame is cardboard. The filter material is not very
restrictive to air flow. If you need more filtering capability, just
double the filter thickness. Things like vacuum cleaner bags and
exhaust fan filters are usually more restrictive to airflow because they
have the luxury of a very powerful fan motor and usually a high flow
rate. Fan flow rates for PCs are (usually) very low, e.g. 50-80 CFM, so
you don't want a filter that will be a high resistance to airflow.
-J

I found some material in a shipment just today from someone i bought from on
ebay. I cut it into squares and am testing it now.

 

[Arfa Daily]

- Show quoted text -
I hate to sound stupid, but How do I find the switched line from the
control micro to see if it toggles? Didn't I do this when I checked
all of the power supply pins going to my video board?
I do have a glowing LED on the front of the set which turns on the
minute I plug the set in, but it is continually on, and does not
blink. I also tested every pin on my power supply board and found them
to be dead, except for the 5 volt stand by voltage. I did notice when
measuring the five volt line on the power switch it dropped to 0 volts
when I pushed the switch. Am I misunderstanding anything your
saying?

OK. The fact that you are getting a standby light shows that the 5v you
are
seeing at the power supply, is definitely an output from it, not an input
from elsewhere, that is not moving. Seeing the 5v at the set's standby
pushbutton, again verifies that the 5v is reaching the main board, and is
also getting to the system control micro (to which the standby button will
almost certainly be connected). In response to that line being dropped
from
5v to zero, by pushing the standby button, the system control micro should
issue a "power on" signal to the power supply. This is the usual
arrangement. It is highly unlikely that the standby pushbutton, is
connected
directly to the power supply.

So, assuming that the standby switching line's pin is not marked at the
power supply, and that you do not have a set of schematics (or even a
board
interconnect diagram will do) then the only way that you can proceed, is
to
go looking for the standby switching line at the power supply, by looking
at
every external connector pin that doesn't have any legend to tell you what
it does, with a 'scope set to DC coupling. As you move to each pin, you
need
to push the standby button, and wait a couple of seconds to see if the DC
level on the pin you are checking, moves, or even if a pulse is produced.
Wait ten seconds before moving on to the next pin to test, to allow any
'problem' that the system control micro may have detected, to reset to the
'try again' condition.

If you find a pin that's toggling, then the chances are that it is not
your
mainboard that's primarily at fault (as such) and that the problem lies
either with the power supply, or one of the loads that it's feeding. If
there is no pin that's toggling, then the system control is not issuing a
"power on" signal, and trouble shooting the power supply, is not the right
path.

Unfortunately, these things are not straightforward like in the 'good ol'
days', and can be very difficult to fault-find on, without a lot of
experience, and spare boards to try in them. Let us know if you manage to
find the standby switching line, and we might be able to proceed a bit
further, from there. Do you know what chassis is fitted by any chance ?
It's
not a Vestel is it ? Are there any numbers / letters at the corner of the
PSU ?

Arfa- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Thanks Arfa,
There are a bunch of numbers on the power supply board, starting with
a VLT70039.50 LOGAH REV5 UA-4141-1-LF
I just recieved the service manual from Andrews on this set and its a
joke. The only page that shows a schematic is so blury its useless.

I did find what I believe to be the return line from the micro going
to my power supply board, It says "PWR ON" so I'm going to assume this
is the right one, but I get no voltage what so ever when I press my
power on button. Thanks again.
Any further suggestions would be appreciated.
Dave

OK Dave. That line is definitely the power switching line. If it has no
voltage on it at all (check this with a 'scope set to DC, in case it just
pulses too quickly to see on a meter) then there's a good chance that the
micro is not telling the power supply to turn on. If at all possible from
the manual, you want to trace this signal back at least to where it comes
off the mainboard, and preferably all the way back to a pin on the micro,
just to prove that there are no simple connector isues. Also, now that you
have the manual, try to see if you can verify that standby supplies are 5v
only on that set i.e. that you don't have say a 3v3 standby rail that's
missing. Also, try to verify that there is not a 3v3 regulator on the
mainboard that derives its input from the 5v standby rail, and that's not
working. After that, is where it starts to get hairy ...

If the "power on" line is low, never changes - even immediately after a
fully-unplugged-from-the wall-outlet repower - and the power supply is in
standby, then the chances are that the line should shift from low (0v) to
high (5v) in order to wake the power supply up. You can thus now verify the
power supply by disconnecting the line (usually you can easily pop the pin
from the connector shell to isolate any wire) and then connecting a low
value resistor - start with 100 ohms - between the 5v standby supply, and
the actual power supply pin where you have disconnected the wire from. If
this brings the power supply to life, then the chances are that you have a
bad mainboard, and you are unlikely to be able to fix that. You might try
looking on e-Bay for replacement boards. These often pop up this side of the
pond, at very reasonable prices, as sets often get broken up for spares as a
result of insurance write offs from LCD panel damage.

One word of caution, I am assuming that you have enough knowledge of switch
mode power supplies to realise that they are potentially *very* dangerous at
their front ends. The main filter cap on one that's not running, can remain
charged to a very high voltage, long after you disconnect it from line
power. Also, most of these LCD PSUs have a resonant PFC stage at the front
end, which will run, producing full front end rectified DC across the main
filter cap, with as little as 40v ac input applied to the supply.

Good luck. Let us know if you make any progress.

Arfa

 

[Arfa Daily]

<me@privacy.net> wrote in message
news:haCdnZ61YJdOB_TV4p2dnAA@giganews.com...

"Timelord" <timelord@cpbbs.synchro.net.remove-1008-this> wrote:

"me" <me@privacy.net> wrote in message

Don't let it bother you; it is just human nature. We judge things
by our own experiences. If, say, 90% of ebay customers have no
problems and 10% get screwed, those in the 90% naturally tend to
dismiss claims by the 10%. Your story is credible and matches the
stories told by others in similar situations.

There you go again sorry no Sam I repeat You did not send
the original emails so I cant judge if it is real or not...
you really need to reconsider what you are saying

No I don't. *You* do. He clearly stated "The letter came via
the ebay internal mail system as well as to my email address."
Unless he is just a total liar (and if he is you would be stupid
to trust any copy of an email he sent you; he could simply edit
a legit email from ebay if he is a liar) that proves that your
"it was a fake email that fooled you" theory is wrong.

It would be refreshing if you were to admit that you were wrong,
but this being the Internet I won't hold my breath.

Also, anyone who knew Sam's pedigree on here, would be extremely reluctant
to believe that he would be deliberately lying over something like this, for
whatever unfathomable reasons ... :-(

Arfa

 

[Guy Macon]

sam@ece.drexel.edu wrote:

So UPenn and Drexel have pulled the plug on their USENET news
servers. I'm looking for recommendations on newsgroup access,
preferably via GNUS, which many consider antiquated, as far as I can
tell, it is 10 times faster to read and post than using the fancy GUI
"modern" alternatives.

Supernews.


--
Guy Macon
<http://www.GuyMacon.com/>

 

[Arfa Daily]

"Ron" <BigELilE05@msn.com> wrote in message
news:93b8e32f-997a-48b9-91fa-858c504de3b8@a70g2000hsh.googlegroups.com...

I have two Panasonic VCR's, model numbers PV-V4540 and PV-9450.

They are almost idenical on the outside and very simular on the
inside.

The "newer" model - PV-V4540 - seems to have a head going bad from
everything I've read.

The PV-9450 works fine, but doesn't have the features that the PV-
V4540 has.

I would like to install the head unit from the PV-9450 (the older one)
in the PV-V4540 (the newer one).

They look the same, but are they the same? And if I swap the
headunits, will the alignment be the same?

Here are pics of the head units. The one thing that I wondering about
is the "arm" on the center post of the (newer) PV-V4540...what is
that?

The arm in the centre is for static discharge. Without it, on a machine
originally fitted with one - which most are - you tend to get little white
dots on the playback picture. Provided the heads *are* exactly the same,
then there are no alignment issues with head swaps on modern VCRs. It is
only two screws, so give it a go. Normally, the screw holes are offset
slightly to make sure that you don't get it on 180 degrees out. At worst, it
just won't work. As a matter of interest, what are the symptoms for your
diagnosis of failing heads on the first one ?

Arfa

 

[Arfa Daily]

"Timelord" <timelord@cpbbs.synchro.net.remove-8pd-this> wrote in message
news:486AF427.1199.alt_lasers@cpbbs.synchro.net...

"Timelord" <timelord@cpbbs.synchro.net> wrote in message
news:486AF2BB.1198.alt_lasers@cpbbs.synchro.net...
"Arfa Daily" <arfa.daily@ntlworld.com> wrote in message
news:iimak.172983$NN3.97626@newsfe08.ams2...

me@privacy.net> wrote in message
news:haCdnZ61YJdOB_TV4p2dnAA@giganews.com...



"Timelord" <timelord@cpbbs.synchro.net.remove-1008-this> wrote:

"me" <me@privacy.net> wrote in message

Don't let it bother you; it is just human nature. We judge things
by our own experiences. If, say, 90% of ebay customers have no
problems and 10% get screwed, those in the 90% naturally tend to
dismiss claims by the 10%. Your story is credible and matches the
stories told by others in similar situations.

There you go again sorry no Sam I repeat You did not send
the original emails so I cant judge if it is real or not...
you really need to reconsider what you are saying

No I don't. *You* do. He clearly stated "The letter came via
the ebay internal mail system as well as to my email address."
Unless he is just a total liar (and if he is you would be stupid
to trust any copy of an email he sent you; he could simply edit
a legit email from ebay if he is a liar) that proves that your
"it was a fake email that fooled you" theory is wrong.

It would be refreshing if you were to admit that you were wrong,
but this being the Internet I won't hold my breath.


Also, anyone who knew Sam's pedigree on here, would be extremely
reluctant to believe that he would be deliberately lying over something
like this, for whatever unfathomable reasons ... :-(

Arfa


Sorry Arfa,
This is a conversation that should have stayed in private channels
and has nothing to do with his pedigree his original message suggest
strongly
that it was a phishing message as the format displayed was wrong, Also
this kind of message also suggest that it was intended to become the
point of
reception of a bad virus or worse. But he would not send the original
message
so I can do nothing to help. ( He ask for my help then refused it when it
was offered )
--
Thanks,
Timelord
Charlie's Place BBS, Newsgroups - Games - Files - Gifs

P.S. BTW I am willing to put Sam's pedigree to the teat but he does not
sound willing...

Well, typo aside, I'm not sure exactly what that means. Sam has posted on
Usenet, and spent enough of his own time in what has always appeared to be a
selfless manner to me, for him to not need to qualify his pedigree further
to you, or any of us. Perhaps it's just time to agree to differ. You think
he was duped, and he doesn't. His account is now working again, and
everything in the garden is rosy. Not worth falling out over. End of ?

Arfa

 

[N_Cook]

Arfa Daily <arfa.daily@ntlworld.com> wrote in message
news:GKGak.31030$AH5.7778@newsfe09.ams2...

"Ron" <BigELilE05@msn.com> wrote in message
news:93b8e32f-997a-48b9-91fa-858c504de3b8@a70g2000hsh.googlegroups.com...
I have two Panasonic VCR's, model numbers PV-V4540 and PV-9450.

They are almost idenical on the outside and very simular on the
inside.

The "newer" model - PV-V4540 - seems to have a head going bad from
everything I've read.

The PV-9450 works fine, but doesn't have the features that the PV-
V4540 has.

I would like to install the head unit from the PV-9450 (the older one)
in the PV-V4540 (the newer one).

They look the same, but are they the same? And if I swap the
headunits, will the alignment be the same?

Here are pics of the head units. The one thing that I wondering about
is the "arm" on the center post of the (newer) PV-V4540...what is
that?



The arm in the centre is for static discharge. Without it, on a machine
originally fitted with one - which most are - you tend to get little white
dots on the playback picture. Provided the heads *are* exactly the same,
then there are no alignment issues with head swaps on modern VCRs. It is
only two screws, so give it a go. Normally, the screw holes are offset
slightly to make sure that you don't get it on 180 degrees out. At worst,
it
just won't work. As a matter of interest, what are the symptoms for your
diagnosis of failing heads on the first one ?

Arfa

A child's plastic "toy" microscope of x20 or x30 magnification. Just the
barrel is useful for inspecting with part of the objective end ground down
at an angle, back to (or even into ) the lens, allows to get close enough
for video heads to inspect, in situ , when illuminated with a torch. To
inspect whether the gap is chipped and generally whether worn down too much.
View in a downwards sense wherever there is enough clearance.

--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/

 

[William Sommerwerck]

"hr(bob) hofmann@att.net" <hrhofmann@att.net> wrote in message
news:f544c94e-1dd2-43ee-a0d2-04b51b78fc80@8g2000hse.googlegroups.com...
On Jul 1, 6:01 am, Adrian C <em...@here.invalid> wrote:

Adrian C wrote:
William Sommerwerck wrote:

Good luck finding the remote you need. You probably won't.

The news is not that grim....
There are plenty of companies that distribute compatible remotes for
sets that are not covered by the dollar shop universals, say for strange
additional button requirements.

Try MCM Electronics. They claim ...

"MCM is an authorized distributor for Thomson Consumer Electronics. We
have access to virtually every remote they offer. Please contact your
salesperson"

http://www.mcmelectronics.com/search.aspx?M=01005369

Adrian C

Thanks!!


I don't think those who replied got the point I was making. You'll have no
trouble finding a remote labelled as being right for your TV. The "catch" is
that the advanced functions MIGHT NOT BE SUPPORTED.

I'll contact MCM today. I bet they won't have the remotest idea what I'm
talking about.

I just purchased a GE remote that includes a locator device (principally for
that). * I ran through every one of the dozen codes supplied for Toshiba
TVs -- and not one of them had either the 0, or anything beyond displaying
the PIP. (You can't select what the PIP displays.)

* You won't believe this, but Home Despot had the lowest price, including
anyone on the Web.

 

[Will Hoevenaars]

The fault symptom looks like there are dry joints around the vertical output
stage.
Take the back of the set and lightly tap the circuit board with the handle
of a screwdriver and confirm that it reacts when tapping the board.

Will.

"John Hudak" <jhudak@sei.cmu.edu> wrote in message
news:g4b60l$vps$1@usenet02.sei.cmu.edu...

Hi:
The vertical deflection went out on my TV a few days ago. It started
acting funny a few days prior to it going out altogether. I'd turn the
set on and the thin horizontal line would appear, then fully deflect, and
oscillate back a forth a few times, sometimes staying a line for a min or
two, then deflect to full screen, etc. Now it just stays on as a thin
horizontal like across the screen, about 1/8" thick.

Are there any things prone to failure in this set that I should look at?
OR, any common problems with this set in general? e.g. bad solder joints
around?
Thanks for any insight!
John

 

[Jim Yanik]

Jeffrey D Angus <jangus@socal.rr.com> wrote in
news:g4g5d201bfv@news1.newsguy.com:

Peter Wieck wrote:
I use a solder-sucker.

One of these things:
http://www.eclipsetools.com/ProductPics/Latest%20.jpegs/900-001N.JPG

The little rubber bulb squeezy things are inadequate to the amount
of solder to be removed from the terminals.

There are also fancy vacuum-aided devices for which I have never (yet)
had the need, but I hear-tell they are super at what they do.

For the most part, the vacuum pump desoldering irons are great for
printed circuit board work, but are also inadequate for vintage
equipment desoldering. The primary problem being the small size of
reservoir requires emptying about every 5-6 "normal vintage radio
joint"

In addition to the probe technique, I will heat up the terminal,
then wiggle the one lead in particular as it cools off. This gives
me a nice "cold solder joint" and makes it obvious as to which lead
is the one that needs to be gone. I'll use a sharp pair of cutters
to clip the specific loop around the terminal. When reheated again,
the lead usually pulls straight out and the wrapped part falls off.

Jeff

I favor my Edsyn SoldaPult;it sucks the solder off terminals and then I can
unwrap the leads. sometimes I use a dental "excavator" to lift the lead,it
has a chisel tip.

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net

 

[nipperchipper]

"Ron" <BigELilE05@msn.com> wrote in message
news:93b8e32f-997a-48b9-91fa-858c504de3b8@a70g2000hsh.googlegroups.com...

I have two Panasonic VCR's, model numbers PV-V4540 and PV-9450.

They are almost idenical on the outside and very simular on the
inside.

The "newer" model - PV-V4540 - seems to have a head going bad from
everything I've read.

The PV-9450 works fine, but doesn't have the features that the PV-
V4540 has.

I would like to install the head unit from the PV-9450 (the older one)
in the PV-V4540 (the newer one).

They look the same, but are they the same? And if I swap the
headunits, will the alignment be the same?

Here are pics of the head units. The one thing that I wondering about
is the "arm" on the center post of the (newer) PV-V4540...what is
that?



PV-V4540 head unit
http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p96/bigelile/IM002417-1.jpg

PV-9450 head unit
http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p96/bigelile/IM002411-1.jpg

PV-V4540 face
http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p96/bigelile/IM002414-1.jpg

PV-9450 face
http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p96/bigelile/IM002413-1.jpg


from the parts list pvv4540 uses the beliow listed upper cylinder head

VEGS0427 ( A )
VEGS0428 ( B,C,D )
VEGS0429 ( E,F )

pv9450 uses
VEHS0571 ( A )
VEHS0570 ( B,C )
VEHS0567 ( D,E )
not much help but swapping may not hurt

>