Toshiba TV29C90 problem; Image fades to black...

[William Sommerwerck]

I've no idea what the so-called "C-rate" is...

You need to know this!

C is the cell's capacity in mAh. This is usually right there on the cell.
For example, I have some decade-old Panasonic nicads marked 500mAh. (That's
not very high capacity, compared to recent cells.)

If you charged the cell at 50mA, that would be a 0.1C charge rate.

 

[DaveM]

"Franc Zabkar" <fzabkar@iinternode.on.net> wrote in message
news:nmpj541e473h63kl3u34dfm7oauuqvnddd@4ax.com...

I need help downloading the user manual (467KB) for an LG model
EC990SW VCR from this URL:

http://au.lge.com/products/sidemenu/list/video_vcr___PRD|MANU_manu.jhtml

I have installed the DJVU plugins for my browser (Opera), but I can't
access the appropriate file (EC990SW_NA2ALL_78B_NEW.djvu). I have also
tried Firefox. My brother who is using IE also cannot access the file.

I would be most grateful if someone could provide me with a direct
link, or send the manual to my e-mailbox.

The subject VCR is powering up with "SAFE" in the display. I suspect
this is due to a child lock.

- Franc Zabkar
--
Please remove one 'i' from my address when replying by email.

Looks like the LG site wants you to launch the manual directly from their site.
Seems that you have to allow the LizardTech DjVu viewer to be installed or it
doesn't allow the manual to be accessed.

I have the WinDjVu viewer, which is a much better viewer than LizardTech's
viewer (IMHO), and I don't want to go through the pain of juggling software apps
on my system just for one document.

--
Dave M
MasonDG44 at comcast dot net (Just substitute the appropriate characters in the
address)

Experience: What you get when you don't get what you want

 

In alt.engineering.electrical Daniel Who Wants to Know <danielthechskid@merrychristmasi.com> wrote:
| <phil-news-nospam@ipal.net> wrote in message
| news:g1gkdp01hd6@news1.newsguy.com...
|> In alt.engineering.electrical Daniel Who Wants to Know
|> <danielthechskid@merrychristmasi.com> wrote:
|>
|> | Yes like my Amana commercial RadarRange which is 4KW in 2.2KW out and
|> has 3
|> | HV magnetrons along with 3 each of the other necessary items (cap,
|> diode,
|> | etc.). It even has a current transformer that tells the control board
|> via
|> | current draw when the magnetrons are warmed up so that the timer doesn't
|> | start counting down until it is actually cooking. It has a standard
|> NEMA
|> | 6-20 plug on it now and will pop a bag of popcorn in roughly 75 seconds
|> | without scorching it. I can tell you it sure beats the hell out of
|> regular
|> | microwave ovens for most things. The only thing I still use the regular
|> one
|> | for are items that involve liquids as the Amana tends to make them
|> either
|> | boil over or boils out all of the water before the food is cooked.
|>
|> Will it operate on single phase power, like I have in my home?
|>
|
| Considering a NEMA 6-20 plug only has the 2 hot prongs plus ground and the
| cord is a 14-3 AWG with one conductor being ground, yes it is single phase.

Don't be so quick to jump to conclusions. The NEMA 6-XX series gets used for
both the 208 volt 120 degree and the 240 volt 180 degree 2-wire connections.
Some devices work on one and not the other. You CAN derive three phase from
one and not the other. A motor could be wired to use that angular difference
(with the neutral) to achieve a motor starting direction instead of having a
capacitor to change the angle on a shaded pole.

Also, if the supply is 208 volts then the maximum power available is 4157 watts
(3326 under the 80% rule), whereas with 240 volts it is 4800 (3840 under 80%).

240 volts is a 15.47% increase over 208 volts. 277 volts is a 15.47% increase
over 240 volts. Can either of those be substituted for 240 volts easily?

--
|WARNING: Due to extreme spam, googlegroups.com is blocked. Due to ignorance |
| by the abuse department, bellsouth.net is blocked. If you post to |
| Usenet from these places, find another Usenet provider ASAP. |
| Phil Howard KA9WGN (email for humans: first name in lower case at ipal.net) |

 

[Colin Horsley]

"Franc Zabkar" <fzabkar@iinternode.on.net> wrote in message
news:nmpj541e473h63kl3u34dfm7oauuqvnddd@4ax.com...
I need help downloading the user manual (467KB) for an LG model
EC990SW VCR from this URL:

http://au.lge.com/products/sidemenu/list/video_vcr___PRD|MANU_manu.jhtml

I have installed the DJVU plugins for my browser (Opera), but I can't
access the appropriate file (EC990SW_NA2ALL_78B_NEW.djvu). I have also
tried Firefox. My brother who is using IE also cannot access the file.

I would be most grateful if someone could provide me with a direct
link, or send the manual to my e-mailbox.

The subject VCR is powering up with "SAFE" in the display. I suspect
this is due to a child lock.

- Franc Zabkar
--

English Owners manual (pdf) downloaded from this French site - here:-

http://mesnotices.fr/manuel-notice-mode-emploi/LG/EC990SW-_E

Click this box:-

" Télécharger le
mode d'emploi
intégral (4954 Ko)"

Page 25 to remove child lock. You need the remote. Button C.LOCK

Colin @ CATronics

 

[Arfa Daily]

<anglomont@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:c5d880e1-78b5-4150-be40-d6b7e48520aa@d77g2000hsb.googlegroups.com...

On Jun 19, 5:05 am, "Tim Williams" <tmoran...@charter.net> wrote:
anglom...@yahoo.com> wrote in message

news:eb5d7c30-1fd2-4dd7-8345-45056982f98f@x41g2000hsb.googlegroups.com...

there should be 2 diodes near the microwave magnetron

Nope, only need one. The magnetron is the other.

Tim

--
Deep Friar: a very philosophical monk.
Website:http://webpages.charter.net/dawill/tmoranwms

well on schematic there is another one in parallel with the capacitor
(guess for protection)but its orientation is not clear-probably
should be anode to magnetron and cathode to transformer, as drawn

My Sharp has one in series with the mag, which I guess is the HT rectifier,
and one in shunt across the HT filter cap, orientation as you suggest.

Arfa

 

[Arfa Daily]

"Sam Goldwasser" <sam@minus.seas.upenn.edu> wrote in message
news:6wy751uiiv.fsf@minus.seas.upenn.edu...

"Arfa Daily" <arfa.daily@ntlworld.com> writes:

anglomont@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:c5d880e1-78b5-4150-be40-d6b7e48520aa@d77g2000hsb.googlegroups.com...
On Jun 19, 5:05 am, "Tim Williams" <tmoran...@charter.net> wrote:
anglom...@yahoo.com> wrote in message

news:eb5d7c30-1fd2-4dd7-8345-45056982f98f@x41g2000hsb.googlegroups.com...

there should be 2 diodes near the microwave magnetron

Nope, only need one. The magnetron is the other.

Tim

--
Deep Friar: a very philosophical monk.
Website:http://webpages.charter.net/dawill/tmoranwms

well on schematic there is another one in parallel with the capacitor
(guess for protection)but its orientation is not clear-probably
should be anode to magnetron and cathode to transformer, as drawn

My Sharp has one in series with the mag, which I guess is the HT
rectifier,
and one in shunt across the HT filter cap, orientation as you suggest.

Circuit please.

Where is the HT filter cap?

You've got me thinking now, Sam. The reason that I said about my Sharp, was
that I had occasion to be inside it a few weeks ago. I actually have two of
these - one at home, and one in one of our businesses. The business one
failed, and it was the HT rectifier that had gone short circuit, and knocked
out the HT fuse. I didn't take that much notice of the circuit overall. As
far as I recall, the diode went straight from the HT winding on the tranny,
down to one terminal on the HV cap, and I'm sure from there to the mag, but
that is only from memory. There was a second diode connected directly across
the HV cap. I know for sure that it was there, as I disconnected it to check
it. I was just thinking standard half wave rectifier circuit - one diode,
one cap. I didn't really even consider why that other diode was there. But
now I do stop to think about it, that isn't 'normal', is it ? Usually, the
cap is connected to the tranny, and the rectifier is in shunt, and produces
negative HT to the filament / cathode, the anode being grounded to the other
side of the HT winding ... I suppose if you think about it that way round,
and then put it down on paper 'conventionally', it amounts to the same
thing. It's just the way that the circuit is usually drawn that makes it
seem something different. A bit like getting your head around PNP
transistors connected upside down into a 'positive up' circuit.

In the next couple of weeks, I am going to be scrapping my one at home, as
part of a rebuild of my kitchen. It has always been an 'uncontrollable'
piece of crap, far too powerful to be of any use, anyway, so I shall be glad
to see the back of it. Before it goes, I will take another look, and see
just what they have done in there, circuitry-wise.

Arfa

 

[Stormin Mormon]

I had a half watt light from Cabelas, which was "a little bit longer" and
doesn't fit in my pants pocket.

The teralux conversion is really great stuff. Pricey. But I paid $28 for an
Opalec when they came out. The Teralux really outshines (sorry) the Opalec.
The new Nite Ize also really screams.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


<Retief> wrote in message news:e4dj541vgm9265if3ncehiq452psd8bcva@4ax.com...
On Tue, 17 Jun 2008 23:52:55 -0400, "Stormin Mormon"
<cayoung61**spamblock##@hotmail.com> wrote:

The Mag provided aa cell lights are too long to fit in my pants pocket.

BTW, the 3W LED is only a tiny bit longer...

As to conversions, google "Nite Ize" or "teralux" for more information. the
Nite Ize module is $4.92 at Walmart, and is essentially as bright as the
Teralux.

Thanks for the pointer, Stormin'... The Teralux looks very
interesting...

Retief

 

[Daniel Who Wants to Know]

<phil-news-nospam@ipal.net> wrote in message
news:g3ekvd0ba5@news3.newsguy.com...

Don't be so quick to jump to conclusions. The NEMA 6-XX series gets used
for
both the 208 volt 120 degree and the 240 volt 180 degree 2-wire
connections.
Some devices work on one and not the other. You CAN derive three phase
from
one and not the other. A motor could be wired to use that angular
difference
(with the neutral) to achieve a motor starting direction instead of having
a
capacitor to change the angle on a shaded pole.

Also, if the supply is 208 volts then the maximum power available is 4157
watts
(3326 under the 80% rule), whereas with 240 volts it is 4800 (3840 under
80%).

240 volts is a 15.47% increase over 208 volts. 277 volts is a 15.47%
increase
over 240 volts. Can either of those be substituted for 240 volts easily?

--
|WARNING: Due to extreme spam, googlegroups.com is blocked. Due to
ignorance |
| by the abuse department, bellsouth.net is blocked. If you post
to |
| Usenet from these places, find another Usenet provider ASAP.
|
| Phil Howard KA9WGN (email for humans: first name in lower case at
ipal.net) |

In this specific application the third prong is used only as a chassis
ground connection as everything including the light bulb is 230V. Also I am
no expert here but I think intermittent loads can exceed the 80% rule hence
the 14 gauge cord which would normally only be good for 15 amps but is
protected by a 20 amp fuse inside the oven and a 20 amp double pole circuit
breaker in the service panel. The NM-B (Romex) I used is 12-3 with ground
and has the white neutral conductor simply capped but not connected at
either end.

 

[David Lesher]

"Michael A. Terrell" <mike.terrell@earthlink.net> writes:

I will be updating this as it plays out. I expect the outcome to be
satisfactory, but the route it's taking is like one of those nightmares
where you're trapped on a 15 dimensional mobius strip.

Just be happy that you aren't trapped in a Klein bottle!

From <http://kleinbottle.com> perhaps?

--
A host is a host from coast to coast.................wb8foz@nrk.com
& no one will talk to a host that's close........[v].(301) 56-LINUX
Unless the host (that isn't close).........................pob 1433
is busy, hung or dead....................................20915-1433

 

[David Lesher]

So you've figured out:

a) There are virtually no humans at eBay. There are some replicants, but
they are Eliza School of Thinking graduates.

The few humans are busy giving rosy PR briefings and telling Wall Street
how wonderful things will be next quarter.

b) You're always at fault.

c) If not true, GOTO b).

d) For more insight into dealing with eBay; read Brain Aldiss's
_Who Can Replace a Man?_


--
A host is a host from coast to coast.................wb8foz@nrk.com
& no one will talk to a host that's close........[v].(301) 56-LINUX
Unless the host (that isn't close).........................pob 1433
is busy, hung or dead....................................20915-1433

 

[William Sommerwerck]

----- Original Message -----
From: "ancient-time-traveler" <IMcwhorter@woh.rr.com>
To: "William Sommerwerck" <grizzledgeezer@comcast.net>
Sent: Thursday, June 19, 2008 9:28 PM
Subject: Re: Early rectangular 25 inch picture tube 25A, 25B ......... 23V

On Jun 19, 7:22 am, "William Sommerwerck"
grizzledgee...@comcast.net> wrote:

I verified its emission and it is exceptional.

The beam current goes all the way to 11000 uA!

Hey Richard head leave me alone ................................ I
love to meet you face to face you coward.

Mr. McWhorter was so upset with my posting that he called three times. (His
caller ID is shut off, so I didn't answer the first two calls, letting the
machine take them. A person who hides their caller ID is hardly in a
position to call someone else a coward.)

I monitored the third call, and as he then stated what his problem was (the
first two calls were general attacks), I decided to pick up and speak with
him.

He considers me a smart-ass (I probably am) who needlessly posted the above
remark (also possible), which will likely ruin the sale of this tube (not at
all likely). He considered the remark an attack intended to make him and the
tube look bad. It didn't matter to him that its intent wasn't malicious; he
perceived it as such, and that was all that mattered.

I asked him if he ever went to the movies. "I never go to the movies or
watch TV. I have better things to do." He repeatedly refused to let me
explain the joke, and finally suggested that if was such a good joke, I
should explain it so that everyone could appreciate it.

I don't apologize for the remark, because it was the sort of wise-crack that
commonly shows up in newsgroups. I assume most people got it. For those who
didn't, including Mr. McWhorter, I'll explain it.


The 1984 comedy "This is Spinal Tap" is about a fictional heavy-metal band.
It's presented as a documentary, with the film's producer (Rob Reiner)
interviewing the group's members and surveying the goings-on of a touring
rock group.

In one of the film's best-known scenes, Christopher Guest shows Reiner his
collection of guitar amplifiers. He's particularly fond of one, whose gain
control is labeled from 0 to 11, rather than the more-common 0 to 10. By his
"reasoning", this means the amp can play louder, particularly at those times
when 10 just isn't loud enough. "But this one goes to 11."

This joke has worked its way into popular culture. For example, in "Toy
Story 2", the power control on Emperor Zurg's back is labelled from 1 to 11,
with the 11 given emphasis.

Mr. McWhorter said the tube's emission was "exceptional", so I cracked "The
beam current goes all the way to 11000 uA!".

Bada BING!

No?


Again, I do not apologize for making a joke that most people should get and
is plainly innocuous. As to whether people in newsgroups _should_ post
wisecracks -- which, admittedly, have no "real" function and waste
bandwidth -- that's another matter. I say yes, that newsgroups serve a
social as well as a practical function, and a bit of humor is fine.
Reasonable people may differ.

I told Mr. McWhorter that if he ever wanted an ear to bend, about anything,
he should feel free to call and I would listen seriously. And I meant it.

 

[William Sommerwerck]

Sorry about this posting. I was intended for another group. I goofed.

 

[bz]

"gb" <w9nogbspam@arrlspamno.net> wrote in
news:YZ6dnUdEjIvLV8TVnZ2dnUVZ_q7inZ2d@comcast.com:

"bz" <bz+ser@ch100-5.chem.lsu.edu> wrote in message
news:Xns9AC080A9DC414WQAHBGMXSZHVspammote@130.39.198.139...
"gb" <w9nogbspam@arrlspamno.net> wrote in news:TMydncjw-
Z_Wc8rVnZ2dnUVZ_qvinZ2d@comcast.com:

MATCH the MASS
of the tip to the MASS of the soldering area.

Thanks for that information. That sounds like a great hint!


--
bz 73 de N5BZ k


Common error for newcomers to Soldering.
Based on sound physical principles of thermal conduction of heat
(Fourier's law)
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thermal_conductivity

True, but even though I was aware of the physical principles, I had not
seen that particular 'rule of thumb' before.

I might modify it slightly. "the mass of the tip should match of exceed the
mass of the objects to be soldered".
Of course, a temperature controlled iron with plenty of power and thermal
conductivity will do as well but the image of matching the masses is a
great image to keep in mind.






--
bz 73 de N5BZ k

please pardon my infinite ignorance, the set-of-things-I-do-not-know is an
infinite set.

bz+ser@ch100-5.chem.lsu.edu remove ch100-5 to avoid spam trap

 

[ian field]

<stratus46@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:b64c8246-2ba4-441a-a504-1195fb238ca9@b1g2000hsg.googlegroups.com...
On Jun 20, 11:02 am, "captainvideo462...@yahoo.com"
<captainvideo462...@yahoo.com> wrote:

Perhaps someone can help. I need to explain to my brother, who
lives
in another state how to manually degauss his TV. I've sent him an
old
coil I've had around here forever with instructions on how to use
it.
I've also found some good articles on this on line however a
pictorial
view of the procedure would be of great benefit to a non technical
person such as he. Does anyone know of any articles that might
include
a picture or two of the process? Thanks, Lenny.

Geez, you turn on the TV and the coil, wave the coil over the TV like
a magic wand while marveling over the neat colors, move the coil away
and then turn it off. If he can't handle that, please tell me he
doesn't drive a car because THAT's a whole lot harder.

He drove the car through the front wall of the house and knocked the TV
over - that's why it needs degaussing.

 

[Michael Kennedy]

"zalek" <zalekbloom@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:c1477604-06e5-426f-aec2-828767b46380@l64g2000hse.googlegroups.com...

Hello, I am trying to build a new PC. After connecting all the parts,
I turned the switch on and... nothing.
I suspect that the power supply is not working, or the circuit on the
motherboard that switches the power supply on is not working.
When I flip the switch on the back of the power supply on, the
keyboard LED turns on for a second. However, when I press the major
switch, nothing happens. No fans move, and there are no noises. I
checked the major switch with an ohmmeter, and the switch seems like
it works.
I'm not sure if the power supply or the motherboard circuit that
starts the power supply isn't working.
So my question is, how can I check if the power supply is working?
Thank you very much

Zalek

Double check that the power swich is on the correct connector in the correct
manner. Sometimes you can place them on the connector 90 degrees out of
rotation i.e. Vertically vs horizonataly and it will not work.

Mike

 

In alt.engineering.electrical bud-- <remove.budnews@isp.com> wrote:
| Daniel Who Wants to Know wrote:
| >
|> Also I am
|> no expert here but I think intermittent loads can exceed the 80% rule hence
|> the 14 gauge cord which would normally only be good for 15 amps but is
|> protected by a 20 amp fuse inside the oven and a 20 amp double pole circuit
|> breaker in the service panel.
| .
| The US NEC allows about any cord of 2 conductors (not including ground)
| to be used at 18A. Most (all?) cords with type starting H (hard use) can
| be used at 20A.
|
| The 80% rule is for continuous loads - over 3 hours.

Like a computer?

--
|WARNING: Due to extreme spam, googlegroups.com is blocked. Due to ignorance |
| by the abuse department, bellsouth.net is blocked. If you post to |
| Usenet from these places, find another Usenet provider ASAP. |
| Phil Howard KA9WGN (email for humans: first name in lower case at ipal.net) |

 

[Arfa Daily]

"Dave" <daveem@webtv.net> wrote in message
news:3651c4bf-6211-4ba9-ad8d-7ed66fecdc87@w4g2000prd.googlegroups.com...

I'm wanting to determin if my power supply voltages are correct on my
dead LCD TV. On my power supply board the output voltages are printed,
but since the set doesn't turn on, the only voltage I see present is 5
volts on the stand power supply pin.
I realize the power supply isn't completely turned on until the
microprocessor on my video board sends it the correct turn on pulse,
but isn't there more I can do aside from assuming the video board is
likely defective. I checked ESR on all capacitors, looked for shorted
diodes and transistors, burnt resistors, etc. What is a high failure
item on the video board which might cause this? The set doesn't come
on for even a second.
This is a Westinghouse model SK32H240S

Thanks in advance.

On many, although not all, LCD TV sets that I've had the 'pleasure' to work
on (!) the standby supply produces +5v and +3v3. Normally, when you have one
that won't come out of standby (do you actually even get a standby light
showing?) the first thing to do is to locate the standby switching line to
see if that is toggling. If it is, you then need to look at each individual
output rail from the power supply to see if they start to try to come up.
Often, they will, but fall over again so quickly that you don't see any
activity at all in terms of the set coming to life. The rails are normally
something like +3v3 switched, +5v switched, +12v, +24v high current (for the
backlight inverter) and +33v.

If the power supply is trying to start, then the next thing to do is to
unplug the backlight inverter board. It is common for these to fail, and if
they impose a heavy load on the 24v rail, the power supply will shut back
down before it ever really gets going. Another common failure for a heavily
loaded rail, is a failed audio IC.

In general, LCD TV power supplies are *very* heavily self protecting, and
they will either shut back down very quickly, or not even come up at all (as
far as you can see) if they detect the slightest thing wrong with any of
their rails - thats over-voltage, under-voltage, or excess load.

It can be very tricky to get to the bottom of what's causing an apparently
dead LCD TV. I have also had system control micros fail, and also corrupted
EEPROMs causing startup problems.

Arfa

 

[DaveM]

"Sam Goldwasser" <sam@plus.seas.upenn.edu> wrote in message
news:6w63s1at4v.fsf@plus.seas.upenn.edu...

I know, not really repair, but this newsgroup has at least as good
suggestions as the others and I'll cross-post to sci.electronics.misc.

I need to either build or acquire an up/down counter with LED display
that is at least 5 digits, 7 preferred. Count speed is 10 MHz max.

I found the Maxim ICM7217
(http://datasheets.maxim-ic.com/en/ds/ICM7217-ICM7217C.pdf)

which seems easy enough to use - 2 of these and a bunch of 7 segment LED
displays. But I'm open to other suggestions.

Even if someone had a complete unit scrapped out they'd be willing to
sell cheap!

Thanks.

--- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/

Sam,
I thought that Velleman made a kit that would do your bidding, but it seems that
their up/down counter kit is for low speed (switch) inputs... only 200 counts
per second. Red Lion Controls makes a 10KHz presettable counter; I see those
infrequently on Ebay, usually in the $40 - $80 range.
I remember servicing some HP presettable counters a number of years ago, and I
know that one of those would easily work for you, but a quick search on Ebay
turned up nothing. Neither Ramseykits nor any of the other kit makers have
anything useful.
So it seems, at first glance, that your ICM7217 solution might be the most
expedient.

--
Dave M
MasonDG44 at comcast dot net (Just substitute the appropriate characters in the
address)

Experience: What you get when you don't get what you want

 

[JANA]

I had a different scanner than what you have. I had a similar fault. A
ribbon cable became loose that connects on to the circuit board from the
scanner head.

I have also had scanners go defective, and they were not feasibly
serviceable.

--

JANA
_____


"MC" <for.address.look@www.ai.uga.edu.slash.mc> wrote in message
news:1BC7k.1430$CC.948@bignews9.bellsouth.net...
Epson Perfection 1670 scanner. Software thinks it's normal; it goes
through the motions of scanning; but the image is always just plain
white.

Problem reproduced under 2 operating systems (on a machine that
dual-boots XP and Vista) with separate copies of Epson Scan for each, so
I don't think it's a software problem.

I recently moved the scanner around without setting the transportation
lock, so I'm thinking there might be a broken connection. Has anybody
encountered this problem before?

Thanks!

 

[ZACK.]

a ringing transformer with a lose or cracked ferite core
or bad cap in EHT circuit

"naza" <naza911@googlemail.com> wrote in message
news:b635b256-fc2a-4ad3-bfa6-bc32d48b24f5@m36g2000hse.googlegroups.com...

I have got a Matsui TV (link:
http://www.currys.co.uk/martprd/store/cur_page.jsp?BV_SessionID=@@@@0622967266.1213531520@@@@&BV_EngineID=ccfhadeegggiimicflgceggdhhmdgmk.0&page=Product&fm=null&sm=null&tm=null&sku=978626&category_oid=)
which I picked up from currys a while back. It has this strange noise
though. When the screen shows White or bright colours it gives out a
high pitched noise, but is silent for black. Is this a fault?