Toshiba TV29C90 problem; Image fades to black...

[ian field]

<captainvideo462002@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:72fcc0b8-c0ec-4207-9bfd-34d2563609a5@c58g2000hsc.googlegroups.com...
On Jun 20, 4:25 pm, Leo Marx <LeoM...@nospam.net> wrote:

stratu...@yahoo.com wrote:

On Jun 20, 11:02 am, "captainvideo462...@yahoo.com"
captainvideo462...@yahoo.com> wrote:
Perhaps someone can help. I need to explain to my brother, who
lives
in another state how to manually degauss his TV. I've sent him an
old
coil I've had around here forever with instructions on how to use
it.
I've also found some good articles on this on line however a
pictorial
view of the procedure would be of great benefit to a non technical
person such as he. Does anyone know of any articles that might
include
a picture or two of the process? Thanks, Lenny.

Geez, you turn on the TV and the coil, wave the coil over the TV like
a magic wand while marveling over the neat colors, move the coil away
and then turn it off. If he can't handle that, please tell me he
doesn't drive a car because THAT's a whole lot harder.

G˛

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VUnINUIrULU

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j404EgmdXSU

JAM- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Its entertaining but it really doesn't show walking up to the crt with
the coil perpendicular to the screen then during backing off repeating
this step. I guess that I can explain this over the phone. Thanks,
Lenny.

Unless your brother has small children that like to play with magnets
against the front of the TV, degauss problems are relatively rare unless the
degauss posistor fails. The thermistor pellet often shatters and will
sometimes go intermittent short before finally going completely open
circuit - this usually causes severe purity errors but they can just fail
open circuit with more subtle colour errors.

 

[DaveM]

"Sam Goldwasser" <sam@plus.seas.upenn.edu> wrote in message
news:6wd4m7921a.fsf@plus.seas.upenn.edu...

John Fields <jfields@austininstruments.com> writes:

On 22 Jun 2008 20:32:00 -0400, Sam Goldwasser
sam@plus.seas.upenn.edu> wrote:

I know, not really repair, but this newsgroup has at least as good
suggestions as the others and I'll cross-post to sci.electronics.misc.

I need to either build or acquire an up/down counter with LED display
that is at least 5 digits, 7 preferred. Count speed is 10 MHz max.

I found the Maxim ICM7217
(http://datasheets.maxim-ic.com/en/ds/ICM7217-ICM7217C.pdf)

which seems easy enough to use - 2 of these and a bunch of 7 segment LED
displays. But I'm open to other suggestions.

Sorry, nothing but quoted text?

--- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/
Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/
+Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/lasersam.htm
| Mirror Sites: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/F_mirror.html

Important: Anything sent to the email address in the message header above is
ignored unless my full name AND either lasers or electronics is included in
the
subject line. Or, you can contact me via the Feedback Form in the FAQs.

---
news:csuv54tpdimmf91g4fa81n1uo0f79mvg68@4ax.com

JF

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ is a link to a post in a.b.s.e, Sam. There's a
PDF attachment.

--
Dave M
MasonDG44 at comcast dot net (Just substitute the appropriate characters in the
address)

Experience: What you get when you don't get what you want

 

[Nigel Heather]

I don't beleive it is. I just think the design needed a neat connector to
carry a number of wires and the 9 Way D was a cheap and simple solution.

I imagine that the audio output from the PC (or other music device) and the
power goes into the sub. It contains the PSU, crossover, amp etc and feeds
the two two speakers via the 9 Way D.

So it probably only uses 4 pins (signal and ground for each speaker).

My guess is that they use a 9 Way because there is another model that has
rear speakers aswell (8 pins needed).

What I don't understand is what the OP is trying to do. Is he trying to
replace the speakers or add additional ones?

Cheers,

Nigel

 

[Dave Platt]

In article <i_b8k.37$Eg.22@trnddc01>, mike <spamme9@gmail.com> wrote:

I've been gearing up for the big ATSC switch.
I have a Hughes HTL-HD receiver. Works fine except that
it can't receive channel 32.1...no signal.
I have an outside antenna on a rotor...nothing.

I have two of these receivers that behave identically.

I have two other different brand receivers that work just fine on 32.1.

I've plugged the antenna into a spectrum analyzer and don't
see anything obvious. Plenty of signal. Bart's head is pretty
flat across the top of 32.1.

I have no idea where to start troubleshoothing this problem.
I'm in Portland, Oregon.
Suggestions?

At a guess: the signal path from the transmitter antenna to your
receiving antenna may have enough multipath-reflection components,
that the ATSC demodulator / signal processor used in the Hughes
converter may be unable to handle the job of echo-cancellation and
recover a good echo-free signal.

If rotating the antenna isn't sufficient, then you might need an
antenna which is more directional.

As a sanity check, try taking one of the converters to a different
location - one with a clear line-of-sight to the transmitter
position - and see if you can get a sync-up from there.

--
Dave Platt <dplatt@radagast.org> AE6EO
Friends of Jade Warrior home page: http://www.radagast.org/jade-warrior
I do _not_ wish to receive unsolicited commercial email, and I will
boycott any company which has the gall to send me such ads!

 

[N_Cook]

msg <msg@_cybertheque.org_> wrote in message
news:i7ednVaZc6oc2PzVnZ2dnUVZ_vzinZ2d@posted.cpinternet...

Greetings,

I would appreciate a discussion on what environmental factors
cause white plastic equipment cases (which thermoplastics are used
I don't know) to yellow to a sickening hue. I have a number of
devices that only in one room of the house have suffered this fate
over the last several years in storage. Some have been in boxes
and others in the open. The room is darkened with no solar
illumination and only occasionally are CFL lights used. One
device only yellowed on the surface facing the ceiling. There
is no smoking in the house and very little (only occasional)
fry-pan cooking at a low temperature.

What chemistry is involved here? Could carpet composition or
fire-retardant treating do this?

Michael

I've always assumed it was a surface oxidation process or from airbourne
acids. It can often be cut back with oven cleaner but any legends etc are
lost doing that. White paint goes yellow, paper goes brown in a reaction
with airbourne acids.

perhaps try sci.chem

--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/

 

[Mark D. Zacharias]

"Jim Adney" <jadney@vwtype3.org> wrote in message
newshd364d35uu2pld77fvnbltvq0cfs7rmp0@4ax.com...

As a result of some self administered foolishness, I now have a very
nice Toshiba CD drive with a blown BA5983FP motor drive IC. I know
it's probably stupid to even want to try, but I'd rather fix this than
throw it out (waste not, want not.)

Of the places I've checked, only MCM carries this IC, and they are out
of stock. NTE does not show a cross.

Anyone got one, or know of anyone who stocks them?

thanks,

-
-----------------------------------------------
Jim Adney jadney@vwtype3.org
Madison, WI 53711 USA
-----------------------------------------------

B & D Enterprises lists it at $3.50 US. I deal with them all the time -
they're the best US supplier of original semi's I know of.

800-458-6053

Sony also lists it as part # 8-759-567-26

Mark Z.

 

[A. K. SEPUT]

"bud--" <remove.budnews@isp.com> wrote in message
news:4d945$485bca07$4213ea6f$21451@DIALUPUSA.NET...

Daniel Who Wants to Know wrote:

Also I am no expert here but I think intermittent loads can exceed the
80% rule hence the 14 gauge cord which would normally only be good for 15
amps but is protected by a 20 amp fuse inside the oven and a 20 amp
double pole circuit breaker in the service panel.
.
The US NEC allows about any cord of 2 conductors (not including ground) to
be used at 18A. Most (all?) cords with type starting H (hard use) can be
used at 20A.

"for short period and with limited lenght"

The 80% rule is for continuous loads - over 3 hours.

--
bud--

 

[N_Cook]

N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk> wrote in message
news:g3t8m0$u1j$1@registered.motzarella.org...

Made up an umbilical and a variable raw HT1 supply.
So 12V dc from normal bench supply feeding heaters and with vibrator
removed
some HT feeding DC to HT1.
Strange dealing with radios marked in metres, I expect the Home Service
rather than the Boomtown Rats coming through.
Needs alignment, as very good response 1900 to 1500 metres but poor down
the
1000m end. Works, sort of, with HT1 of as little as 50V. Took valve base
dc
readings on HT1 = 160V, as a bit of a lash-up.
Works perfectly ok at 260V ,on the end of band that is, but will try
sorting
out the vibrator first before taking any full HT readings.

With a 100mA fuse protecting my HT transformer plus variac I have to start
low and build up or the fuse blows but otherwise current of 27mA at HT1 of
50V, 27mA at 160V and 44mA at 260V which is as expected

I only have alignment plus schema for similar Ekco car radios of the
period,
not this particular one. Anyone know if the data from these people
http://www.service-data.com/email/list/ekco.htm
usually contains alignment details ?

The mechanism of the HT vibrator is mostly covered with soot? but not the
sponge liner shown in the third image, how come ?.

http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/vib.jpg

The small rattling piece is a contact that has come detached from position
to the left of the purple \ and shown in isolation as the black dot on the
second image.
The adjustable frame contact is just above the purple \, coil to the left.
The vibrating strip is central terminated with the iron bob next to the coil
pole piece.

How to clean up and how to re-attach the contact pad ? presumably epoxy will
not survive the temperature.
Can opened easy enough and room inside for a pouch of activated silica gel
before closing and epoxy coat sealing.

--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/

 

[N_Cook]

oldcoot <oldcoot7074@sbcglobal.net> wrote in message
news:0439365f-70b8-4458-9fef-b14ac6bfa9fe@c19g2000prf.googlegroups.com...

A factoid about synchronous vibrators - a radio using one is polarity-
sensitive. That is, if the radio is negative ground, you cannot run it
positive-ground. If you do, the power supply will generate "B-
negative" instead of B-plus, putting reverse polarity on the filters
(smoothers). But a radio using a tube rectifier will run OK on either
ground polarity. Most will even run on AC, but with some wierd 'beat'
effects with the mains frequency.

Now a synchronous vibrator *can* be used with opposite ground by
simply reversing the two transformer secondary leads that would
normally go to the plates of a tube rectifier.

Useful to know that polarity reversal point for a future occassion. This is
a positive earth only radio, no user switch, going back into (another +
ground) such old vehicle.

The contact is 4.4mm across and I have successfully robbed a contact from a
20 amp relay which is about the same size. Hopefully will be able to swage
it (with a ball bearing and vice) into this mechanism after grinding out
the copper back pad of the original. The spot weld ? had failed between the
platinum? pad and copper back pad.

If this all fails then solid state it will have to be.

--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/

 

[Charles]

"Dave M" <masondg4xx4@cxxomcast.net> wrote in message
news:djg464ll3gsf9r0k9rmd2gopjg7aciapoj@4ax.com...

On Sun, 8 Jun 2008 05:31:13 -0700 (PDT), "Dwight D. Eisenhower"
rottedHonda@yahoo.com> wrote:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=140239498250&ssPageName=STRK:MESE:IT&ih=004


Hey, I have one of these guys in my junque box.. Anybody have a
schematic or
documentation of any kind for it? Seems like it worked the last time I
used it,
but never had any documentation on it. It's really a pretty nice curve
tracer... might put it back on the bench when I get a small, cheap scope
to hook
it to (permanently).

The schematic was originally in the GE transistor handbook. 40 + years ago.

 

[William Sommerwerck]

Dirt, also, may bond to the surface; if normal household
cleaners (soap, Windex, Formula 409 etc.) don't work,
it might be useful to apply a mild abrasive (toothpaste
or metal polish).

Novus, too.

 

[DaveM]

"Charles" <charlesschuler@comcast.net> wrote in message
news8ydnR4iSvluSv_VnZ2dnUVZ_q_inZ2d@comcast.com...

"Dave M" <masondg4xx4@cxxomcast.net> wrote in message
news:djg464ll3gsf9r0k9rmd2gopjg7aciapoj@4ax.com...
On Sun, 8 Jun 2008 05:31:13 -0700 (PDT), "Dwight D. Eisenhower"
rottedHonda@yahoo.com> wrote:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=140239498250&ssPageName=STRK:MESE:IT&ih=004


Hey, I have one of these guys in my junque box.. Anybody have a schematic
or
documentation of any kind for it? Seems like it worked the last time I used
it,
but never had any documentation on it. It's really a pretty nice curve
tracer... might put it back on the bench when I get a small, cheap scope to
hook
it to (permanently).

The schematic was originally in the GE transistor handbook. 40 + years ago.

Which edition of the GE transistor handbook was that schematic in? I have a
copy of the 7th edition (ca. 1964), but there's nothing even remotely resembling
a curve tracer in that manual.

Thanks!!!

--
Dave M
MasonDG44 at comcast dot net (Just substitute the appropriate characters in the
address)

Experience: What you get when you don't get what you want

 

[William Noble]

you might wish to silver solder the contact - use the low temp solder from a
jewelry store and a propane or acetolyne torch


** Posted from http://www.teranews.com **

 

[N_Cook]

oldcoot <oldcoot7074@sbcglobal.net> wrote in message
news:0439365f-70b8-4458-9fef-b14ac6bfa9fe@c19g2000prf.googlegroups.com...

A factoid about synchronous vibrators - a radio using one is polarity-
sensitive. That is, if the radio is negative ground, you cannot run it
positive-ground. If you do, the power supply will generate "B-
negative" instead of B-plus, putting reverse polarity on the filters
(smoothers). But a radio using a tube rectifier will run OK on either
ground polarity. Most will even run on AC, but with some wierd 'beat'
effects with the mains frequency.

Now a synchronous vibrator *can* be used with opposite ground by
simply reversing the two transformer secondary leads that would
normally go to the plates of a tube rectifier.

If I get this thing going again , anyone know how to adjust?
Obviously must get the right sort of HT under load but beyond that ?
Minimised 12V current consumption? balanced switching waveform ? minimum
noise ?, minimum sparking? relative immunity to less than 12V supply?

--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/

 

[Mark D. Zacharias]

"Jim Adney" <jadney@vwtype3.org> wrote in message
news:nb7664hmr3209d7jlju88r95tsnqjpivts@4ax.com...

On Wed, 25 Jun 2008 05:15:30 -0500 "Mark D. Zacharias"
mzacharias@nonsense.net> wrote:

"Jim Adney" <jadney@vwtype3.org> wrote in message
newshd364d35uu2pld77fvnbltvq0cfs7rmp0@4ax.com...

As a result of some self administered foolishness, I now have a very
nice Toshiba CD drive with a blown BA5983FP motor drive IC. I know
it's probably stupid to even want to try, but I'd rather fix this than
throw it out (waste not, want not.)

Of the places I've checked, only MCM carries this IC, and they are out
of stock. NTE does not show a cross.

Anyone got one, or know of anyone who stocks them?

B & D Enterprises lists it at $3.50 US. I deal with them all the time -
they're the best US supplier of original semi's I know of.

800-458-6053

Sony also lists it as part # 8-759-567-26

Thanks, and that's a LOT better price than MCM's $16.50. Now I just
have to think of some other things I can use from B & D (odd choice of
name...) to get up to their $15 minimum.

-
-----------------------------------------------
Jim Adney jadney@vwtype3.org
Madison, WI 53711 USA
-----------------------------------------------

They have an excellent selection of high quality electrolytic capacitors...

mz

 

[Mark D. Zacharias]

"Stephany Alexander" <sermoderator@hotpop.com> wrote in message
news:7cb2c0b2-d9a0-4eaf-a192-c8029c38ef27@z72g2000hsb.googlegroups.com...
On Jun 19, 1:30 am, dinesh.s.she...@gmail.com wrote:

Hi All

I have an old Sony MUSIC system which only plays audio cd . It cannot
play MP3 . I want to changed only the cd system so that it can play
the MP3 at least . Could any one help me in this regards

Thank in advance.

go to the sony website download the latest firmware for your stereo
and burn it to cd and put it in the cd player and turn on the stereo
and wait a few minutes.

On an older Sony stereo? Dream on...

Mark Z.

 

[William Sommerwerck]

Still looking for a Maha/Powerex MH-C9000 charger.

Just Google it.

The price has gone up in the past year, so look around a bit before buying.

 

[Tom Biasi]

<anglomont@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:b1e5f67a-fab8-493a-8189-d282c42da574@j22g2000hsf.googlegroups.com...

Is the joint contact on http://www.geocities.com/anglomont/hvr-d.jpg
connected to anode of 2x062h(it should be a diode) ?

Its a microwave diode with short protection.
be careful in there!

Tom

 

[N_Cook]

I wouldn't like to do that job too often.
Found out why there was ohmic path on one of the contacts. Insulating
plastic sleeve around one of the bolts had burnt and charred, shows how hot
the contact arms got. Some of the high temp sleeving for 1/4 inch spade
connectors just about fitted there. Had to replace the mating contact as
that had a great crater in it as well as the broken one. Had to remove one
standard rivet and replace for to be able to get to the covered contact, to
replace it.

Then reassembly is a pig as dozens of bits of mica etc . Will try powering
tomorrow.

--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/

 

[N_Cook]

Jeffrey D Angus <jangus@socal.rr.com> wrote in message
news:g40drj01949@news4.newsguy.com...

N_Cook wrote:
I wouldn't like to do that job too often.
Found out why there was ohmic path on one of the contacts. Insulating
plastic sleeve around one of the bolts had burnt and charred, shows how
hot
the contact arms got.

Sounds like the buffer capacitor died. Something in the range of
0.001 uF or so but with a 1 KV rating. When those die, bad things
happen to the contacts.

Jeff

I'll change that before powering up.

--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/