Toshiba TV29C90 problem; Image fades to black...

[N_Cook]

Jeffrey D Angus <jangus@socal.rr.com> wrote in message
news:g4jtgg12mnh@news4.newsguy.com...

Ken G. wrote:
Interesting .. not one person does this the same way


Do you have anything constructive to add? Or are you just
posting to see your name in print like Skippy did?

Jef

I find it an interesting point. We each, separately, have found a way that
obviously works or we would try and find another method. But there is no
convergence to some outright winning process.

--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/

 

[Arfa Daily]

<snip>

The upper drum(s) can only go on one way. It has a pilot hole for a
guide and the screw holes are also slightly offset.

Don't know what happened, but switching them fried something in either
the units themselves, or in the upper drums.

*Both* units with their original heads have video, but the audio is
muddy. I cleaned both using the fingernail method you mentioned,
followed up with paper and alcohol, no change.

Oh well.........

OK. Well the offsetting of the screw holes is what I had expected, so I
really don't know what you can have done. I can't think of any way that
either set of heads, let alone both, can have been damaged by simply
swapping them between machines. Even if one set had much more 'robust'
windings to take a higher bias current on record, they should at least have
survived in the other machine. It's been a while since I did much work on
VCRs as they have not been popular here for a couple of years now, but
'muddy' is not a description that I would normally have found a way of
putting to a hifi sound track. Usually, this track has a tendency to drop
out completely when the heads wear, and the machine reverts back to the
linear sound track, which can be muddy if the A/S head is not properly
aligned. You said before that you had altered the setting of the supply
guide roller. Have you tried making sure that you have that back in exactly
the right place ? As I think I pointed out earlier, correct recovery of the
hifi sound track is critical of several factors.

Arfa

 

[Deke]

"hr(bob) hofmann@att.net" <hrhofmann@att.net> wrote in message
news:2a54b058-64e8-429b-a786-8227e54a9f5b@59g2000hsb.googlegroups.com...

I have a used 1993 RCA/GE CTC177 tv set that says PIP on the front
case that I picked up junking. The set works great once I fixed the
tuner solder problem. I only have a universal remote and am wondering
how to get into the PIP mode. I know there is a service mode by
holding down the menu and the power and volume buttons, but don't want
to screw things up. I tried finding the owners manual, but didn't
conme up with anything.

Suggestions....., TIA

Bob Hofmann

www.replacementremotes.com

 

[GMAN]

In article <69b10635-42d3-41e1-885b-a39789fa6287@x35g2000hsb.googlegroups.com>, Ron <BigELilE05@msn.com> wrote:

On Jul 4, 2:40=A0am, glenzabr@nospam,xmission.com (GMAN) wrote:
In article <1891bc14-833b-49d3-925e-c49589ea9...@c58g2000hsc.googlegroups=
..com>, Ron <BigELil...@msn.com> wrote:

On Jul 3, 4:40=3DA0am, "Arfa Daily" <arfa.da...@ntlworld.com> wrote:
"nipperchipper" <nipperchip...@hotmail.com> wrote in message

news:J-SdnUraL6u1MPbVnZ2dnUVZ_hOdnZ2d@posted.sasktel...

"Ron" <BigELil...@msn.com> wrote in message
news:93b8e32f-997a-48b9-91fa-858c504de3b8@a70g2000hsh.googlegroups.co=
m..=3D
..
I have two Panasonic VCR's, model numbers PV-V4540 and PV-9450.

They are almost idenical on the outside and very simular on the
inside.

The "newer" model - PV-V4540 - seems to have a head going bad from
everything I've read.

The PV-9450 works fine, but doesn't have the features that the PV-
V4540 has.

I would like to install the head unit from the PV-9450 (the older o=
ne)
in the PV-V4540 (the newer one).

They look the same, but are they the same? And if I swap the
headunits, will the alignment be the same?

Here are pics of the head units. The one thing that I wondering abo=
ut
is the "arm" on the center post of the (newer) PV-V4540...what is
that?

PV-V4540 =3DA0head unit
http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p96/bigelile/IM002417-1.jpg

PV-9450 head unit
http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p96/bigelile/IM002411-1.jpg

PV-V4540 face
http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p96/bigelile/IM002414-1.jpg

PV-9450 face
http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p96/bigelile/IM002413-1.jpg

from the parts list pvv4540 uses the beliow listed upper cylinder he=
ad
VEGS0427 =3DA0( A )
VEGS0428 =3DA0( B,C,D )
VEGS0429 =3DA0( E,F )

pv9450 uses
VEHS0571 =3DA0( A )
VEHS0570 =3DA0( B,C )
VEHS0567 =3DA0( D,E )
not much help but swapping may not hurt

Given that info, it's probably not going to work right. Hifi sound is
critical of correct head performance, so if there are any specificatio=
n
differences between the head drums, there will likely be a problem.

Well, that is an understatement.

Put the head drum from the older working VCR into the newer one, there
was no signal on the face plate for "HiFi".

So I put it back into the - what was working unit - and NO HiIFi.

Don't know what happened, but the newer VCR fried something in the
older ones head drum.

Now I have 2 Panasonics that don't work.

Didnt the fact that they were two completely different model numbers on t=
he
heads and drums tip you off?

Just because something has a different model number, doesn't mean it
won't work.

Sometimes the same product can have an updated model number.

That was the reason for my "Any Panasonic VCR Experts In Here?".....I
took a chance, and it didn't work out.....oh well.

Instead of criticizing what I did, give me an answer as to why it
didn't work...besides they weren't the same model number.

I wasnt criticizing you, I just was basically telling you it wasnt going to

work, but you tried it anyways. they are completely different parts from two
different series of chassies.

I am sorry it didnt work out for you. Keep looking around at salvation army or
thrift stores and you might find another one of those models. I see panasonics
at the local Deseret Industries thrift stores all the time for $5.

 

[Omer S]

Try going to one of the aerospace industry houses here in SoCal and
implement some of the yahoo practices of desoldering as described here and
condoned by some, and you will be thrown out before you can even blink an
eye!

As in soldering, but in reverse, there is methodology and experience in the
way one removes components from a circuit.

From milspec procedures, to industry protocol, there is a way of doing this,
in the same manner as driving schools teach parallel parking!

Omer



"nesesu" <neil_sutcliffe@telus.net> wrote in message
news:d45bfc75-00a7-4e1b-97e7-62dad2d4e319@c19g2000prf.googlegroups.com...

I find it an interesting point. We each, separately, have found a way
that
obviously works or we would try and find another method. But there is no
convergence to some outright winning process.

--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list
onhttp://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/

IMHO, there is no "winning process" because there are too many
variables. A 'bag of tricks' is more useful and the appropriate
methods applied to the particular situation encountered. Replacing a
components [lead] down under a bandswitch is handled far differently
than on an 'eye' type terminal strip fully exposed in the middle of
the chassis.
I think the whole process is called "experience".

Neil S.

 

[William Sommerwerck]

"Kalman Rubinson" <kr4@nyu.edu> wrote in message
news:n3cs64hfjlr5i2vtsgdus6bh1p9sggj601@4ax.com...

On Fri, 04 Jul 2008 00:45:40 -0500, msg <msg@_cybertheque.org_> wrote:

I am frustrated by the British (and Commenwealth?) usage
of company names as plural, as in 'Hewlett Packard _have_
good tech support" instead of "Hewlett Packard _has_ good
tech support". A 'company' is a singular noun.

Yes but a collective singular which is taken to represent a multitude.
I find this particular usage amusing and no stranger than employing
"the United States" as a singular.

I hate this. If one is referring to The United States as a country, then
"is" is correct, "are" is wrong. (The change, by the way, occurred after the
Civil War. The US was now "one" country.)

However, the "collective singular" is totally illogical. The singular is
"team", the plural "teams". So you say "The team is hoping to win", not "The
team are hoping to win". The subject and verb must agree, and this usage is
ungrammatical, plain and simple.

 

[DaveM]

"Kalman Rubinson" <kr4@nyu.edu> wrote in message
news:qvet64dbdfpkjaimrg5mr4e1en8m6j1njm@4ax.com...

On Fri, 4 Jul 2008 16:38:28 -0700, "William Sommerwerck"
grizzledgeezer@comcast.net> wrote:

"Kalman Rubinson" <kr4@nyu.edu> wrote in message
news:n3cs64hfjlr5i2vtsgdus6bh1p9sggj601@4ax.com...
On Fri, 04 Jul 2008 00:45:40 -0500, msg <msg@_cybertheque.org_> wrote:

I am frustrated by the British (and Commenwealth?) usage
of company names as plural, as in 'Hewlett Packard _have_
good tech support" instead of "Hewlett Packard _has_ good
tech support". A 'company' is a singular noun.

Yes but a collective singular which is taken to represent a multitude.
I find this particular usage amusing and no stranger than employing
"the United States" as a singular.

I hate this. If one is referring to The United States as a country, then
"is" is correct, "are" is wrong. (The change, by the way, occurred after the
Civil War. The US was now "one" country.)

Of course. It was an attempt at a humorous analogy.

However, the "collective singular" is totally illogical. The singular is
"team", the plural "teams". So you say "The team is hoping to win", not "The
team are hoping to win". The subject and verb must agree, and this usage is
ungrammatical, plain and simple.

True. That is current American usage but, apparently, not British
usage.

Kal

Do the British say "the United Kingdom are... " ?? According to Wiki, "The
United Kingdom is a union of four constituent countries: England, Northern
Ireland, Scotland and Wales". Are they violating their own grammatical "rules"?

LOL how absurd these threads get.

--
Dave M
MasonDG44 at comcast dot net (Just substitute the appropriate characters in the
address)

Experience: What you get when you don't get what you want

 

[John]

"Franc Zabkar" <fzabkar@iinternode.on.net> wrote in message
news:t1cq64pfnt4n3ehb0jq9rnug2r26s0kjqt@4ax.com...

On Thu, 3 Jul 2008 07:11:44 -0400, "John" <jamasonyy@yymsn.com> put
finger to keyboard and composed:

I'd love to see some MOBO schematics, not because I would actually need to
use them; however I love reading schematics, and have always been
interested
in how they squeeze all that stuff into such a small amount of real
estate.
Something similar to 'Hacking The X-Box' would really be cool.
John

Here are several pre-1999 DTK motherboard and PSU circuits:
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/msg/35d5ffbbbe49f823

I'll eventually post the circuits for the original IBM PC AT if anyone
is interested.

Here is the original AT floppy and MFM hard disc controller board:
http://www.users.on.net/~fzabkar/PC-AT/FDC_HDC/

- Franc Zabkar
--
Please remove one 'i' from my address when replying by email.

Thanks Franc!

 

[N_Cook]

norform <radhani@libero.it> wrote in message
news:g4odtr$8mr$1@tdi.cu.mi.it...

Hi,
first i wonna thank you for your time.
I'm looking for a scheme of guitar ampli MESA BOOGIE CALIBER 50+.
Can you help me?

Bye,
Leonardo
ITALY

3 GIFs for the Mesa Dual Caliber are out there somewhere

--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/

 

[N_Cook]

http://tremolo.elektroda.net/tematykanf.php?ver=pl&adres=Firmowe/MESABOOGIE

--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/

 

[Smitty Two]

In article <Ta2dnd1hGaTc8PPVnZ2dnUVZ_vadnZ2d@earthlink.com>,
"Omer S" <oabukovac@earthlink.net> wrote:

Try going to one of the aerospace industry houses here in SoCal and
implement some of the yahoo practices of desoldering as described here and
condoned by some, and you will be thrown out before you can even blink an
eye!

As in soldering, but in reverse, there is methodology and experience in the
way one removes components from a circuit.

From milspec procedures, to industry protocol, there is a way of doing this,
in the same manner as driving schools teach parallel parking!

Omer

Right. Suppose you tell us all the mil spec procedure (that term is
outdated by about twenty years, I believe) so that we don't commit any
more grievous mistakes. But "industry protocol" around usenet is bottom
posting, so be careful lest you be "thrown out before you can blink an
eye."

 

[Omer S]

FYI via Youtube

Omer

Enjoy!



How to Do It: Basic Soldering
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BLfXXRfRIzY

Soldering 101
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0cl5QI4pqKc&feature=related

How To Solder PROPERLY
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3dkragEKSKI&feature=related

SOLDERCAM! Desoldering diodes
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9U0jbrTNv1o&feature=related



"Smitty Two" <prestwhich@earthlink.net> wrote in message
newsrestwhich-3152FE.06493906072008@news.lga.highwinds-media.com...

In article <Ta2dnd1hGaTc8PPVnZ2dnUVZ_vadnZ2d@earthlink.com>,
"Omer S" <oabukovac@earthlink.net> wrote:

Try going to one of the aerospace industry houses here in SoCal and
implement some of the yahoo practices of desoldering as described here
and
condoned by some, and you will be thrown out before you can even blink an
eye!

As in soldering, but in reverse, there is methodology and experience in
the
way one removes components from a circuit.

From milspec procedures, to industry protocol, there is a way of doing
this,
in the same manner as driving schools teach parallel parking!

Omer



Right. Suppose you tell us all the mil spec procedure (that term is
outdated by about twenty years, I believe) so that we don't commit any
more grievous mistakes. But "industry protocol" around usenet is bottom
posting, so be careful lest you be "thrown out before you can blink an
eye."

 

[Smitty Two]

In article <HamdnZBTCPyDLuzVnZ2dnUVZ_sednZ2d@earthlink.com>,
"Omer S" <oabukovac@earthlink.net> wrote:

FYI via Youtube

Omer

Enjoy!



How to Do It: Basic Soldering
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BLfXXRfRIzY

Soldering 101
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0cl5QI4pqKc&feature=related

How To Solder PROPERLY
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3dkragEKSKI&feature=related

SOLDERCAM! Desoldering diodes
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9U0jbrTNv1o&feature=related

Uh, I know how to solder. I do it for a living. Desolder, too. So I
didn't watch your links, but thanks for the effort. Which video is it
exactly, that talks about the "mil spec" procedure for desoldering tag
terminals? Or is it that you don't have any idea, and you were just
blowing smoke with that aerospace talk?

And please stop top-posting.

 

[Dave Plowman (News)]

In article <1215446569.15566.0@proxy00.news.clara.net>,
Les Matthew <lesmcdm@clara.co.uk> wrote:

hr(bob) hofmann@att.net wrote:
On Jul 5, 3:11 pm, Eeyore <rabbitsfriendsandrelati...@hotmail.com
wrote:
robertjd...@yahoo.com wrote:
I resently got my turntabl out of storage from a move and tested it
out all 3 speeds are stuck on 78 what needs fixing or is a new part
that is needed?
Don't know that model, but such speed selections are often by means of
stepped pulleys.

Inspect and look for something stuck (e.g. by hardened grease).

Graham

You will have to remove the turntable to get at the stepped pulley.
That means taking the mounting plate off of the base, in most cases.

Bob Hofmann

If it's anything like my TD 160 all you have to do is lift the platter
off to get at it.

The TD 160 slips its drive belt from one pulley to another. I'm not sure
the 180 works that way.

les...

--
*If you lived in your car, you'd be home by now *

Dave Plowman dave@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

 

[Steve]

Steve <nobody@nobody.com> wrote in
news:Xns9AD0CDEF8F97Fnobodynobodycom@216.196.97.136:

alphamnemonic <shmotmail@gmail.com> wrote in
news:ba29f199-331f-48c1-ab96-28c3a81d42d8
@i18g2000prn.googlegroups.com:

On Jul 2, 6:20 pm, Steve <nob...@nobody.com> wrote:
s...@ece.drexel.edu wrote in news:16ea6110-be19-4a21-aecc-
10780259c...@e39g2000hsf.googlegroups.com:





On Jul 2, 3:35 pm, alphamnemonic <shmotm...@gmail.com> wrote:
Hi Everybody

This chip normally puts out square pulses. In the power supply I
am working on (http://www.laserfaq.org/sam/150rcsch.pdf) it is
putting out a sawtooth wave. I am testing it in 'standby mode',
in which Q4 is off and R33 is in control of the duty cycle.
Replacing the IC1 has no effect. Does anyone have any ideas?

Where are you seeing sawtooths?  Pin 13?

--- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ:http://www.repairfaq.org/
 Repair | Main Table of Contents:http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/
+Lasers | Sam's Laser
FAQ:http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/lasersam.htm         | Mirror
Sites:http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/F_mirror
.html

Important: Anything sent to the email address in the message
header above is
ignored unless my full name AND either lasers or electronics is
included in the
subject line.  Or, you can contact me via the Feedback Form in the
FAQs.

That is my question. Why do you have output A and output B (pin 11
and 14
)
grounded?

Also, pin 13 is VC in for the transistor collectors. Why do you have
this connected as an output?- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Yes the sawtooth is on pin 13. Pin 13 is being used as an output and
pins 11 and 14 are grounded because the chip is being used in single-
ended supply mode (see
http://www.datasheetcatalog.org/datasheet/motorola/SG3525AN.pdf p.6
for an example of this configuration). I can see why you find that
strange--I did too!


I'd avoid the funky setup you have. In my opinion I'd connect pin 13
and 15 together and use either output A or B.

I'm not sure what Q4 is doing, I've never seen it used this way, but
you must know more than me since you designed this elaborte circuit.


Keep us posted at what you do to resolve the problem.

I have been looking at the circuit and the datasheet.

I'm willing to bet the schematic is drawn wrong. It doesn't make any
sense to have pin 13 driving the base of a transistor.

 

[Arfa Daily]

"Andy Cuffe" <acuffe@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:fkt474dbfp0vvkc39k5csocmgi1i3rlvlf@4ax.com...

On Fri, 4 Jul 2008 11:41:30 -0700 (PDT), Ron <BigELilE05@msn.com
wrote:

On Jul 4, 12:35 pm, glenzabr@nospam,xmission.com (GMAN) wrote:

I am sorry it didnt work out for you. Keep looking around at salvation
army or
thrift stores and you might find another one of those models. I see
panasonics
at the local Deseret Industries thrift stores all the time for $5.

That is my plan. Salvation Army, Goodwill, Craigslist, etc.

About the only thing that could have gone wrong is that one of the
hi-fi heads got damaged while you were swapping them. It's easy to
bump one of the heads and break it. Did you try cleaning the heads
after the swap? Did it at least fix the video problem?

There's a slight chance that you need to adjust the head switching
point. It was very critical on older hi-fi VCRs. Just removing and
replacing the same head drum can be enough to throw it off. I don't
know if newer Panasonics require an adjustment.

I've found that video heads will usually work fine if they physically
fit, and have the same number of heads.

In a few rare cases, heads from different manufacturers can even be
swapped. For example, in the 80's and early 90's Goldstar copied
Panasonic's head mounting and electrical connections exactly. I fixed
many Panasonics with heads salvaged from Goldstar VCRs. It worked out
well because Panasonic VCRs lasted a long time and often had worn out
heads. On the other hand, Goldstar VCRs usually broke long before the
heads had any wear on them.
Andy Cuffe

acuffe@gmail.com

My feelings and experience too, Andy. I really can't figure what he did
wrong or what happened to bring the situation to the point of neither
machine working.

Arfa

 

[f825_633]

I wouldnt have thought that Symantecs are redirecting you to their site,

might be your browser is being hijacked,

have a look here http://www.hijackthis.de/ great little util has help me
many times diagnose peoples browser problems.





<cardinalcal3@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:3e2009ee-49e4-478c-8382-be187309c574@25g2000hsx.googlegroups.com...

How do I get rid of ,, antivirius2009. can,t get yo my hot mail or
yahoo mail. this web page come up everytime. Thanks Calvin

 

[Geoffrey S. Mendelson]

captainvideo462002@yahoo.com wrote:

I need to build a surge suppressor to go on the input of an alarm
circuit. ......

Don't forget a fast blow fuse. That way when the MOV's fail, they
will just blow the fuse and not explode.

Geoff.
--
Geoffrey S. Mendelson, Jerusalem, Israel gsm@mendelson.com N3OWJ/4X1GM

 

[JANA]

These low cost surge protectors are not very good. Your best bet is a
UPS. This way if there is a power cut, your computer will be protected.
You will have a few minutes to save your work and shut down the
computer. If there is a strong surge from lightning, there is not very
much you will be able to do about it.

According to international standards for Europe, North America, and many
other countries, all power supplies must have some type of built in
surge protection. They do the best they can at a reasonable cost.

In reality, when the power company distribution takes a hit, anything on
the AC mains line can be damaged. A little box with a few varistors is
not going to do anything much for you unless it is very elaborate in
design. This will cost a lot more than you would be willing to pay. If
the power lines delivering power to your home get a lightning hit, there
is no way a small surge protector or a small UPS will help. The only
thing you can count on is that the ground on the power entry of your
home does its best to absorb as much as possible.

--

JANA
_____


"ChrisCoaster" <ckozicki@snet.net> wrote in message
news:f9ab98aa-666b-4b47-91ab-ee324a976181@34g2000hsh.googlegroups.com...
Which can be trusted, and which should I avoid?

I recently bought one of Staples' own brand for 19.99, and it was dead
out of the box.

-ChrisCoaster

 

[William Sommerwerck]

There are other sources.

http://www.technicaldevices.com/Details.cfm?ProdID=364139

Try Googling and searching.

There's another reason not to buy from Stanley. I no longer buy Stanley
products, because several years ago they reincorporated in a foreign country
(Bermuda?) so they no longer have to pay US taxes.