Toshiba TV29C90 problem; Image fades to black...

[N_Cook]

Ron(UK) <ron@lunevalleyaudio.com> wrote in message
news:EcOdnfhYQvejds7VRVnyhwA@bt.com...

Fleetie wrote:
The obvious choice, as Mr Cook says, is a crystal earpiece.

With one of those, the OP won't even need to make 2 connections;
just touching the tip of the jack plug on the conductor that's
oscillating at a few kHz and a few volts will be enough to make
it faintly audible with careful listening.


One of the most useful bit of kit in my toolbox is a device I made
myself some 35 or so years ago. It`s a crystal earpiece with one wire
terminated in a croc clip and the other in a probe made from an old
ballpoint pen and a brass nail, there`s a capacitor in series to provide
DC blocking.
With this simple device I can trace audio through a circuit- from the
output of a crystal pick-up to several hundreds watts, I can detect
digital pulses, hear hum on a DC supply, etc. etc.

Ron(UK)

I must do the same sometime.
I've always picked up the standard earpiece and a pair of croc-leads and a
needle point rather than making a purpose built tool. Adding in a HV cap if
monitoring for noisy HT lines.
A scope would not show any more info in that situation and avoids
possibility of connecting scope up, in DC mode, set on 1mV/cm or HT pulse
transmitted through internal cap of scope, on a low range, and out goes dual
gate FET or whatever.

--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/

 

[Smitty Two]

In article <ycc5k.20$Dz5.13@newsfe06.lga>,
Jamie <jamie_ka1lpa_not_valid_after_ka1lpa_@charter.net> wrote:

b wrote:
a friend is having problems with the pump in an outdoor pool.
Apparently the motor ran one day then the next day it would not come
on. mains supply is good. He suspects a capacitor - which seems to be
16uF 400v , from the motor. I've seen it, quite a chunky thing with a
small threaded screw coming out of it for attachment and a plastic
body. it's about the size of the mains filter caps in 1970s t.v.s

I had never seen a 16uF cap before, and I am surprised at this size.
Is it likely to be an electrolytic? I presume replacing this is a
good place to start. Any thoughts?
-B
IT's a AC (Non polarized cap) and you can't always assume a cap.
You can look for vented internals at the base ect.

Also a good test would be to see if the motor is humming when started.
if this is the case then the CAP maybe opened but I would first check
that. The caps are not cheap.

About $7. Many people would call that cheap.

Use a CAP meter or your DMM which many have a C testing function.
check for DC shorts and then test for Value using a Cap function .

Also, some motors use a centrifugal switch that sits in the head of
the motor. The actuator/switch could be stuck or broke. You can
determine this
by using an ohm meter from the windings verses the other windings..

etc..

The centrifugal switch contacts on my compressor motor were
intermittent, and I ended up replacing the switch. But I don't consider
the few dollars I spent on new caps as a first attempt, to have been
wasted.

 

[Smitty Two]

In article <ycc5k.20$Dz5.13@newsfe06.lga>,
Jamie <jamie_ka1lpa_not_valid_after_ka1lpa_@charter.net> wrote:

b wrote:
a friend is having problems with the pump in an outdoor pool.
Apparently the motor ran one day then the next day it would not come
on. mains supply is good. He suspects a capacitor - which seems to be
16uF 400v , from the motor. I've seen it, quite a chunky thing with a
small threaded screw coming out of it for attachment and a plastic
body. it's about the size of the mains filter caps in 1970s t.v.s

I had never seen a 16uF cap before, and I am surprised at this size.
Is it likely to be an electrolytic? I presume replacing this is a
good place to start. Any thoughts?
-B
IT's a AC (Non polarized cap) and you can't always assume a cap.
You can look for vented internals at the base ect.

Also a good test would be to see if the motor is humming when started.
if this is the case then the CAP maybe opened but I would first check
that. The caps are not cheap.

About $7. Many people would call that cheap.

Use a CAP meter or your DMM which many have a C testing function.
check for DC shorts and then test for Value using a Cap function .

Also, some motors use a centrifugal switch that sits in the head of
the motor. The actuator/switch could be stuck or broke. You can
determine this
by using an ohm meter from the windings verses the other windings..

etc..

The centrifugal switch contacts on my compressor motor were
intermittent, and I ended up replacing the switch. But I don't consider
the few dollars I spent on new caps as a first attempt, to have been
wasted.

 

[bz]

Pennywise@DerryMaine.Gov wrote in
news:jl6d54lrhkiles3uij68fellmfuc4s08pc@4ax.com:

bz <bz+ser@ch100-5.chem.lsu.edu> wrote:

I have 60/40, will that work OK though? This computer is a 733Mhz
processor so it's not modern.

The age of the processor doesn't matter. What does matter is the fact
that it is much easier to make a good solder joint if you use good
solder and much easier to make a bad one if you use bad solder.

Apparently all we can purchase now is bad solder (the EU banned lead
in solder in 2006).

Talk about timing, this /. article came out yesterday

http://ask.slashdot.org/article.pl?sid=08/06/15/1732216
"Lead is added to solder as it melts at low temperature, but also, it
prevents the solder from growing 'whiskers' — crystalline limbs of
metal. The effect of whiskers on soldered equipment would include
random short-circuits and strange RF-effects. Whiskers can grow fairly
quickly and become quite long."

I've got a bunch of old solder, I'm going to take much better care of
it now. no more using it to balance my 2 meter gliders

I understand that for certain critical applications, lead bearing solder
is still available and legal to use. [caveat: I am not in the EU, not a
lawyer, not an expert on EU law, etc., etc., etc.]






--
bz 73 de N5BZ k

please pardon my infinite ignorance, the set-of-things-I-do-not-know is an
infinite set.

bz+ser@ch100-5.chem.lsu.edu remove ch100-5 to avoid spam trap

 

[Gareth Magennis]

"bz" <bz+ser@ch100-5.chem.lsu.edu> wrote in message
news:Xns9ABF7E1257A21WQAHBGMXSZHVspammote@130.39.198.139...

Pennywise@DerryMaine.Gov wrote in
news:jl6d54lrhkiles3uij68fellmfuc4s08pc@4ax.com:

bz <bz+ser@ch100-5.chem.lsu.edu> wrote:

I have 60/40, will that work OK though? This computer is a 733Mhz
processor so it's not modern.

The age of the processor doesn't matter. What does matter is the fact
that it is much easier to make a good solder joint if you use good
solder and much easier to make a bad one if you use bad solder.

Apparently all we can purchase now is bad solder (the EU banned lead
in solder in 2006).

Talk about timing, this /. article came out yesterday

http://ask.slashdot.org/article.pl?sid=08/06/15/1732216
"Lead is added to solder as it melts at low temperature, but also, it
prevents the solder from growing 'whiskers' - crystalline limbs of
metal. The effect of whiskers on soldered equipment would include
random short-circuits and strange RF-effects. Whiskers can grow fairly
quickly and become quite long."

I've got a bunch of old solder, I'm going to take much better care of
it now. no more using it to balance my 2 meter gliders

I understand that for certain critical applications, lead bearing solder
is still available and legal to use. [caveat: I am not in the EU, not a
lawyer, not an expert on EU law, etc., etc., etc.]

One obvious exception being the military who really can't afford to have
crap solder in their systems.


Gareth.

 

[bz]

"hr(bob) hofmann@att.net" <hrhofmann@att.net> wrote in news:0647bc2b-7a53-
4c73-86e7-286da3b346b0@2g2000hsn.googlegroups.com:

On Jun 15, 10:56 pm, Tim <t...@tim.tim> wrote:
Start Quote -----

OK, this is a problem with a 19" Citizen TV. It is just over a year old.

If the set is put on a stand that has a metal object (like a Satellite
Receiver on a shelf) mounted within 8 inches below the set, the pic has
a very noticeable purity problem all the way across the bottom and about
1/2 way up each side. If I raise the set up, the purity problem will
diminish, but even up at 8" away from the console stand, it still has
slight purity issues.

Raising the set up on boxes is problematic, as the space is very
limited. I would like to shield whatever it is. I am not sure if it is a
reflection from the set or radiated magnetic fields from the equipment
below.

The console is in a travel trailer, so I cannot move everything away
from the tv, as most of the electronics are in this one console, with
the TV on top of it.

Any helpful suggestions are appreciated.

Thanks,

- Tim -

End Quote ------

OK, I thought I would post the solution to the purity problem I had in
the posting quoted above.

I decided to try moving the CRT set around to see if the effect was
environmental. It did indeed seem to effect the purity.

I noticed that even a set magnetic clasps located about 2.5 feet away
had an effect. I tried removing the clasps, but the end result was
minimal.

I tried rearranging and the items located beneath the TV. This resulted
in a significant reduction with the purity issue.

I then removed everything from the shelf under the set. Most of the
problem disappeared, but about 1/4 inch along the bottom still showed
the problem.

I decided to take the set apart, as I never heard the degaussing coils
hit when I turned the set on, I thought they may be disconnected. I
found out that they were connected, but only fired when the set was
first plugged in and cold. They do not hit every time the set is powered
up. Regardless, the purity problem remained.

I then noticed something strange. The metal strap that the CRT is
mounted in had the usual steel wire going across the bell of the CRT and
it that was grounded the set, but it was only contacting the steel frame
at 2 small points, where spring was clipped, and a single wrap around
the steel frame. I attached a copper wire to one of the mounting screws
for a really good contact, and wrapped the other around the steel wire
were it was crimped to the ground wire.

When I fired up the set, the purity problem was gone completely. Even
replacing all the hardware on the shelf and the magnetic clasps would
not cause any problems. I found that the set was now almost immune to
magnetic inteference, even from a magntic screwdiver moved across the
face of the CRT. When I got anything magnetic close to it before, it
would severely effect the purity.

The problem has never returned since.

I hope this help someone in the future....

- Tim -

--

Wow - I can't explain why the grounding made a difference, but thanks
for posting, so many times we never hear what happens.

A magnetic field would have more of an effect on slower moving electrons.
It is possible that the lack of grounding allowed more of a negative
voltage build up on the bell of the CRT than usual, slowing down the
electron beam enough to make the CRT more sensitive to magnetic fields.




--
bz 73 de N5BZ k

please pardon my infinite ignorance, the set-of-things-I-do-not-know is an
infinite set.

bz+ser@ch100-5.chem.lsu.edu remove ch100-5 to avoid spam trap

 

[Arfa Daily]

"1PW" <"OneNpOeSnPuAtMwhistle att a0l dot calm"> wrote in message
news:WJqdna_OUpMayMrVnZ2dnUVZ_g2dnZ2d@comcast.com...

bigjcw1023@gmail.com wrote:
How would I go about testing a regulated power supply. 5-20vdc 2amp
an old lafayete model.

Much depends on what you wish to use the power supply for. However,
try a 10 ohm 50 Watt resistor across its output and measure the D.C.
output voltage for purity from A.C. ripple and/or noise. A scope
would be nice here.

If you have the specs for this power supply, does it conform to your
expectations? Maybe some of its caps have aged and require
replacement?

--
1PW

A 24v truck headlamp bulb or two is a good test load for this sort of thing.
You can put just one on the end and sweep the supply from 5 to 20v whilst
monitoring the output for voltage (make sure that it goes as far as it did
with no load) and for ripple ('scope useful here, but low AC voltage range
on a multimeter will do), then set back to half way - say 10v - then put a
second bulb across the output to double the load, and make sure that the
output voltage does not drop by more than a few mV. At the midway point of
10v, I would not expect the output voltage to change more than say 100mV on
a halfway decent supply that was working correctly. On a good quality
supply, it will be a whole order better than that.

Arfa

 

[Arfa Daily]

"1PW" <"OneNpOeSnPuAtMwhistle att a0l dot calm"> wrote in message
news:WJqdna_OUpMayMrVnZ2dnUVZ_g2dnZ2d@comcast.com...

bigjcw1023@gmail.com wrote:
How would I go about testing a regulated power supply. 5-20vdc 2amp
an old lafayete model.

Much depends on what you wish to use the power supply for. However,
try a 10 ohm 50 Watt resistor across its output and measure the D.C.
output voltage for purity from A.C. ripple and/or noise. A scope
would be nice here.

If you have the specs for this power supply, does it conform to your
expectations? Maybe some of its caps have aged and require
replacement?

--
1PW

A 24v truck headlamp bulb or two is a good test load for this sort of thing.
You can put just one on the end and sweep the supply from 5 to 20v whilst
monitoring the output for voltage (make sure that it goes as far as it did
with no load) and for ripple ('scope useful here, but low AC voltage range
on a multimeter will do), then set back to half way - say 10v - then put a
second bulb across the output to double the load, and make sure that the
output voltage does not drop by more than a few mV. At the midway point of
10v, I would not expect the output voltage to change more than say 100mV on
a halfway decent supply that was working correctly. On a good quality
supply, it will be a whole order better than that.

Arfa

 

[Arfa Daily]

"Art" <plotsligt@hotmail.com> wrote in message
newsfidnWEQUP39BcrVnZ2dnUVZ_tninZ2d@comcast.com...

me@privacy.net> wrote in message
news:O6mdnZYKW4sd7MvVRVn_vwA@giganews.com...



Sam Goldwasser wrote:


I have been a member in good standing with eBay since 1999. As readers
of Sam's Laser FAQ are probably aware, I have acquired a large number of
lasers and related items on eBay, most at bargain basement prices. All
in
all I have been very satisfied with the eBay experience. Until now.

For a blow-by-blow saga of what I'm experiencing now, please go to

http://repairfaq.cis.upenn.edu/Misc/ebayhorror1.htm

I will be updating this as it plays out. I expect the outcome to be
satisfactory, but the route it's taking is like one of those nightmares
where you're trapped on a 15 dimensional mobius strip.

Comments welcome!

A Stockholder, and Merchant, Loses Confidence in eBay
http://seekingalpha.com/article/81353-a-stockholder-and-merchant-loses-confidence-in-ebay
(Small eBay seller had his account (with over 400 positive feedbacks)
suspended because of one negative feedback.)

A new test case of the DMCA--this time over an eBay auction
http://news.cnet.com/8301-10787_3-9949976-60.html
(Totally bogus accusation against eBay seller -- eBay suspends him.)

And all my friends wonder why I highly recommend not doing ANY business
via or with E-Bay!!
Seen and heard too many horror stories that eventually cost many people a
lot of money and confidence.

On the whole, up until now, I don't honestly believe that there has been any
real problem with e-Bay or its user community. I know many people who have
been both buying and selling regularly on there from the start, who have had
no problems at all. I have bought quite a lot of stuff over the years, and I
have had one problem with a very slow shipment, and one where a shipment
never arrived at all. Probably a total of about eight quid lost.

If you were to ask anyone about their buying experiences from anywhere, they
would all have a story or two. Just last week, I bought some new kitchen
stuff from a large UK DIY warehouse. Despite going over it with the salesman
several times, the first item off the truck, when it was delivered, was
wrong. It took probably an hour's worth of phone calls and wasted time to
sort this out. As bad or worse than an e-Bay experience ? Not really any
different, I think ...

At the end of the day, e-Bay are a business, and they are not going to
deliberately do anything to piss their customers / users off. The business
has evolved and grown over the years, and anyone who is in business and
understands business, will appreciate that what works when an enterprise is
small, often doesn't when it is bigger. It becomes necessary to alter
business strategies, and there are bound to be things that people have
gotten used to, that they don't like the repalcements for. Sometimes, what
seems like a good idea at the time, doesn't work out, so something else has
to be tried, or even a return to the previous system is called for.
Sometimes, it's down to a change of ownership, or even management. Not all
'managers' are actually qualified to manage. The current changes to payment
methods, and the apparent mismanagement of exemplary users' accounts, may
just be down to some inept department head, who sooner or later, will be
'discovered' ...

In the meantime, I think it is a bit premature to be writing off what has
been - and probably still is - a fundamentally honest and successful
business, because it's currently having a few problems, or is doing
something which you (at the moment) don't agree with.

Arfa

 

[gb]

"Jim Yanik" <jyanik@abuse.gov> wrote in message
news:Xns9ABF609ECDB3Djyanikkuanet@64.209.0.87...

"DaveM" <masondg4499@comcast99.net> wrote in
news:aNadnWBnwdUmbcjVnZ2dnUVZ_o7inZ2d@comcast.com:

"JR North" <junkjasonrnorth@bigfoot.com> wrote in message
news:ubjb54lsp0dm7sd9n13cst2kp82jhn5cvs@4ax.com...
I bought one of these on Ebay:
http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-soldering-STATION-SOLDER-IRON-50W-Extra-tip_W0
QQitemZ290238359950QQihZ019QQcategoryZ109556QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQc
mdZViewItem it works well.
The box says Sydney Electronic Tools and also shows 3 sets of
replacement tips 5-7 each in various sizes and configs on the box
These are .187" shank ferrule mounted tips.No instructions or company
info in the box. (don't need any Ebay finger-wagging). The seller is
no help. Can't find the company on Google(prolly Chinese)-just get
loads of Sydney, Australia links and 'tips on soldering' . Other
links for known brands like Weller don't offer a'kit' of tips, just
ploddingly large lists of individual tips, and don't list the shank
dia alot of the time.
Anyone have anything helpful? thanks
JR
HOME PAGE:
http://www.seanet.com/~jasonrnorth
--------------------------------------------------


Your soldering station is exactly the same as the Tenma unit here
(http://www.mcmelectronics.com/product/21-7945), just with a different
brand name. In fact, I've seen these same units being sold by a
number of vendors. MCM has extra tips and sponges for the unit. The
tip shank diameter is 0.187", same as yours. Tips are sold
individually. I bought one of these stations a few months ago when
they were on sale at around $13 USD. It's a bit slow to heat up, but
seems to do the job adequately, even on connections to a large ground
place and connections to metal chassis.


I think that's a Weller product;WLC100
http://www.cooperhandtools.com/brands/CF_Files/model_detail.cfm?upc=0371030
59963
http://www.cooperhandtools.com/onlinecatalog/images/WLC100_100.jpg

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net

WRONG, INCORRECT.
I will post correct information shortly.

g. beat

 

[gb]

"JR North" <junkjasonrnorth@bigfoot.com> wrote in message
news:ubjb54lsp0dm7sd9n13cst2kp82jhn5cvs@4ax.com...

I bought one of these on Ebay:
http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-soldering-STATION-SOLDER-IRON-50W-Extra-tip_W0QQitemZ290238359950QQihZ019QQcategoryZ109556QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
it works well.
The box says Sydney Electronic Tools and also shows 3 sets of
replacement tips 5-7 each in various sizes and configs on the box
These are .187" shank ferrule mounted tips.No instructions or company
info in the box. (don't need any Ebay finger-wagging). The seller is
no help. Can't find the company on Google(prolly Chinese)-just get
loads of Sydney, Australia links and 'tips on soldering' . Other links
for known brands like Weller don't offer a'kit' of tips, just
ploddingly large lists of individual tips, and don't list the shank
dia alot of the time.
Anyone have anything helpful? thanks
JR
HOME PAGE:
http://www.seanet.com/~jasonrnorth
--------------------------------------------------

JR -

First, my qualifications. I have been working in electronics since the
ealry 1970s and repairing soldering stations since 1975. I have seen many
changes in the industry in the past 30+ years.

There are a large number of poorly made "copy-cat" soldering stations on the
market.
The soldering tip selection is poor (less than 6 tips usually and no SMT
selections) and virtually no availability for repalcement heaters, parts,
etc. A throw away station.
I consider this unit you have mentioned to be one of these types.

I try to advise people to quit wasting their money on these units, when high
quality used units (Weller, Haako, OKI/Metcal, Pace) are available weekly on
eBay and various surplus venues ---- and tips are readily available from
qualtiy distributors and dealers.

One poster said this was a Weller WCC100, he was incorrect.
This is a model manufactured in China and Mexico, from molds or designs
possibly stolen from Weller's WCC10 and WLC100 production several years ago.

A number of Chinese / Taiwan mfg. also clone/copy the popular Hakko 936
station.

SORNY ROONG INDUSTRIAL (Solomon) is one of the largest OEM suppliers in the
world.
Tenma/MCM, circuit Specialists, etc. are many of the "brand name" companies
that carry Solomon products (as OEM supplier)
http://soldering.com.tw/p1_all.html

NOW, for your Questions.

For generic tips for a variety of soldering stations, look at the PLATO
brand.
I rarely use Plato tips, BUT for situations like yours -- they are an
option.
http://www.platoproducts.com/crosspa2.htm

At .187 inches in diameter (3/16") this is the same shank diameter used by
the Pace PS-80/PS-90 soldering irons.

As for a "kit of tips" -- that is a RARE offfering these days. Pace use to
offer a kit of SMT tips, at $55, but discontinued it -- since most users
only desired one or two tips in the kit.

FREE ADVICE: Use chisel/screwdriver profile tips.
Start with these 3 sizes: 1/16", 3/32" and 1/8" size profiles.
That wll meet 95% of the needs for a home user or hobbyist.
Select the correct tip size for the item you are soldering -- MATCH the MASS
of the tip to the MASS of the sodleirng area.

Go to these web sites (US west coast) for quality soldering stations, irons,
supplies, parts and accessories:

Wassco (So. California)
http://www.wassco.com/

Action Electronics (Santa Ana, California)
http://www.action-electronics.com/

IF you need additional references (other parts of US) or resources, please
post quesiton or query.

g. beat
w9gb

 

[bz]

"gb" <w9nogbspam@arrlspamno.net> wrote in news:TMydncjw-
Z_Wc8rVnZ2dnUVZ_qvinZ2d@comcast.com:

MATCH the MASS
of the tip to the MASS of the soldering area.

Thanks for that information. That sounds like a great hint!


--
bz 73 de N5BZ k

please pardon my infinite ignorance, the set-of-things-I-do-not-know is an
infinite set.

bz+ser@ch100-5.chem.lsu.edu remove ch100-5 to avoid spam trap

 

[DaveM]

yw

 

[DaveM]

"EADGBE" <hwbosshoss@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:02b20379-8f72-4284-b596-a415e97f3c6e@r66g2000hsg.googlegroups.com...

I recently acquired a used Yamaha MX-1000 Power Amplifier that was
VERY dirty.

I opened it up and found probably 3 cats' worth of fur covering the
components inside. You could barely identify the various capacitors,
resistors, etc.

I am no stranger to cleaning out dirty audio gear, and so I took my
trusty Hoover and **CAREFULLY** vacuumed out all of the fuzz and lint
I could see. I also used a small paintbrush as a miniature whisk
broom to get in the tighter areas.

I was very, VERY careful not to disturb any wiring connections.

I carefully put the top cover back on and used the amplifier for a
couple of days with no problems whatsoever.

But now I have noticed that the digital wattage readout on the front
of the amp no longer lights up. I believe that it DID light up
normally after I re-assembled the amplifier, but I still can't help
wondering if I did something to break a connection somewhere.

Does anyone have a schematic for this amplifier? It's really not a
very important feature, but it bothers me that it no longer works.

Is this a common problem on these amplifiers?

Any assistance will be GREATLY appreciated! Thanks in
advance..........

(I also posted this to rec.audio.tech, not knowing which
newsgroup was more appropriate....my apologies......)

You can buy a service manual for your unit from
http://www.servicemanuals.net/ServiceManual/YAMAHA/mx-1000/pos1/results.aspx.
$15.00 for a download, $16.99 for a paper copy.


--
Dave M
MasonDG44 at comcast dot net (Just substitute the appropriate characters in the
address)

Experience: What you get when you don't get what you want

 

[William Sommerwerck]

"Engineer" <junk2007@rogers.com> wrote in message
news:fdc6835c-65f9-4484-b9eb-7a6697eab4ec@34g2000hsh.googlegroups.com...

Can I charge the NiMH cells in the nicad charger? I think this
charges them more slowly as they don't get as hot as in the NiMH
charger.

Yes.

Could I even leave them in the nicad charger to stay fresh?

No. I wouldn't do this unless the charger were specifically designed for it.

NiMH cells show a voltage drop at full charge -- and require a heavy charge
to reach that point. It's unlikely a nicad charger would shut off at the
right point.

I don't think NiMH cells are bothered by a trickle charge.

You should get NiMH cells with at least 2500mAh capacity. They're not
expensive. I also recommend the Maha/Powerex MH-C9000 charger.

 

[isw]

In article <IJWdnRnF64iB58XVnZ2dnUVZ_uydnZ2d@comcast.com>,
"William Sommerwerck" <grizzledgeezer@comcast.net> wrote:

"Engineer" <junk2007@rogers.com> wrote in message
news:fdc6835c-65f9-4484-b9eb-7a6697eab4ec@34g2000hsh.googlegroups.com...

Can I charge the NiMH cells in the nicad charger? I think this
charges them more slowly as they don't get as hot as in the NiMH
charger.

Yes.


Could I even leave them in the nicad charger to stay fresh?

No. I wouldn't do this unless the charger were specifically designed for it.

NiMH cells show a voltage drop at full charge -- and require a heavy charge
to reach that point. It's unlikely a nicad charger would shut off at the
right point.

I don't think NiMH cells are bothered by a trickle charge.

Some of the data sheets I've looked at say that they don't like it. My
(limited) understanding is that if you treat a NiMH like a NiCd, it'll
work but it's life will be shortened.

Isaac

 

[isw]

In article <IJWdnRnF64iB58XVnZ2dnUVZ_uydnZ2d@comcast.com>,
"William Sommerwerck" <grizzledgeezer@comcast.net> wrote:

"Engineer" <junk2007@rogers.com> wrote in message
news:fdc6835c-65f9-4484-b9eb-7a6697eab4ec@34g2000hsh.googlegroups.com...

Can I charge the NiMH cells in the nicad charger? I think this
charges them more slowly as they don't get as hot as in the NiMH
charger.

Yes.


Could I even leave them in the nicad charger to stay fresh?

No. I wouldn't do this unless the charger were specifically designed for it.

NiMH cells show a voltage drop at full charge -- and require a heavy charge
to reach that point. It's unlikely a nicad charger would shut off at the
right point.

I don't think NiMH cells are bothered by a trickle charge.

Some of the data sheets I've looked at say that they don't like it. My
(limited) understanding is that if you treat a NiMH like a NiCd, it'll
work but it's life will be shortened.

Isaac

 

[Stormin Mormon]

The Mag provided aa cell lights are too long to fit in my pants pocket.

As to conversions, google "Nite Ize" or "teralux" for more information. the
Nite Ize module is $4.92 at Walmart, and is essentially as bright as the
Teralux.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


<Retief> wrote in message news:4ntg549jrcd746b19uuahi1k0ql2jjhqm9@4ax.com...
On Wed, 11 Jun 2008 18:25:54 -0400, "Stormin Mormon"
<cayoung61**spamblock##@hotmail.com> wrote:

I don't know of any such. The closest I can find, is a Mini Mag 2 AA light,
with the Nite Ize conversion. Might not be good for house numbers, but you

I picked up one of the AA Mini Maglites with a 3 Watt LED... It's as
bright as the big boys (e.g. D-cell models with the 3W conversion).
Obviously the batteries won't last as long...

My mini mag, I got the Opalec conversion when they first came out. 3 LED,
and not very bright. Later got the Teralux conversion. Turns out the new

Haven't seen a conversion for my Mini Mags... I bought one with the
3W LED installed.

Retief

 

[Stormin Mormon]

The Mag provided aa cell lights are too long to fit in my pants pocket.

As to conversions, google "Nite Ize" or "teralux" for more information. the
Nite Ize module is $4.92 at Walmart, and is essentially as bright as the
Teralux.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


<Retief> wrote in message news:4ntg549jrcd746b19uuahi1k0ql2jjhqm9@4ax.com...
On Wed, 11 Jun 2008 18:25:54 -0400, "Stormin Mormon"
<cayoung61**spamblock##@hotmail.com> wrote:

I don't know of any such. The closest I can find, is a Mini Mag 2 AA light,
with the Nite Ize conversion. Might not be good for house numbers, but you

I picked up one of the AA Mini Maglites with a 3 Watt LED... It's as
bright as the big boys (e.g. D-cell models with the 3W conversion).
Obviously the batteries won't last as long...

My mini mag, I got the Opalec conversion when they first came out. 3 LED,
and not very bright. Later got the Teralux conversion. Turns out the new

Haven't seen a conversion for my Mini Mags... I bought one with the
3W LED installed.

Retief

 

[William R. Walsh]

Hi!

I am trying to couple my air conditioner to a blower.

Depending upon how you set this up, it may result in high stress on the
cooling system. The blower fan in the air conditioner and the cooling system
are closely matched.

but I am not really understanding how these three wires affect the motor's
speed.

Each wire represents one fan speed. Each wire powers a different set of
windings in the A/C fan motor. The typical color coding I've seen is black
for HIGH, blue for MEDIUM and red for LOW. The voltage on each hot wire and
the neutral will not usually differ...they should read line voltage
(110/220) when energized.

The relays on the board simply turn on the desired speed. I'll bet the air
conditioner you have has electronic controls. If so, a microcontroller will
control the relays based on the buttons you press.

William