Toshiba TV29C90 problem; Image fades to black...

[bz]

corelliansolo@gmail.com wrote in
news:adfe0216-b67c-4120-ae47-501b88318cbc@27g2000hsf.googlegroups.com:

Cleaned the machine and parts as best I could, but with so many parts,
looks like it needs to be looked at. <Sigh> Well, first thing,
first, I am going to chuck the WD-40, and will not use it, ever
again.

It is quite useful, in its proper place.

Second, if it's going to cost me $70 or more to service it (which is
what I'm being quoted) I could go with a new machine, but with VHS
being phased out, it is difficult to get a good, four head machine
that gives true four head play back, the way it is supposed to. For
example: I had a look at some combo players today, but they did not
look that great (The housing for a Toshiba VHS/DVD Combo player was
terrible: It looked like the machine was from the late 80's, the
design at least. There was also a Samsung combo, looked a little
better, the button were small, very non descript.)

VHS has great value: There is a lot of misrepresentation and
misunderstanding of this fact, and it would be nice if manufacturers
still supported it, or at least had a high quality option available on
the market.

Any suggestions?

Two suggestions:
1) stop top posting http://www.caliburn.nl/topposting.html

2) watch the trash bins. I have 'rescued' three VCRs from the trash
[several TVs, stereos, microwave ovens, vacuum cleaners, computers,
monitors, a couple of swords, several chairs, a couple of desks, a sewing
table, a FAX, a couple of typewriters, an answering machine and a couch]
almost everything rescued was in working condition or was easy to fix.

.....



--
bz 73 de N5BZ k

please pardon my infinite ignorance, the set-of-things-I-do-not-know is an
infinite set.

bz+ser@ch100-5.chem.lsu.edu remove ch100-5 to avoid spam trap

 

[bz]

corelliansolo@gmail.com wrote in
news:adfe0216-b67c-4120-ae47-501b88318cbc@27g2000hsf.googlegroups.com:

Cleaned the machine and parts as best I could, but with so many parts,
looks like it needs to be looked at. <Sigh> Well, first thing,
first, I am going to chuck the WD-40, and will not use it, ever
again.

It is quite useful, in its proper place.

Second, if it's going to cost me $70 or more to service it (which is
what I'm being quoted) I could go with a new machine, but with VHS
being phased out, it is difficult to get a good, four head machine
that gives true four head play back, the way it is supposed to. For
example: I had a look at some combo players today, but they did not
look that great (The housing for a Toshiba VHS/DVD Combo player was
terrible: It looked like the machine was from the late 80's, the
design at least. There was also a Samsung combo, looked a little
better, the button were small, very non descript.)

VHS has great value: There is a lot of misrepresentation and
misunderstanding of this fact, and it would be nice if manufacturers
still supported it, or at least had a high quality option available on
the market.

Any suggestions?

Two suggestions:
1) stop top posting http://www.caliburn.nl/topposting.html

2) watch the trash bins. I have 'rescued' three VCRs from the trash
[several TVs, stereos, microwave ovens, vacuum cleaners, computers,
monitors, a couple of swords, several chairs, a couple of desks, a sewing
table, a FAX, a couple of typewriters, an answering machine and a couch]
almost everything rescued was in working condition or was easy to fix.

.....



--
bz 73 de N5BZ k

please pardon my infinite ignorance, the set-of-things-I-do-not-know is an
infinite set.

bz+ser@ch100-5.chem.lsu.edu remove ch100-5 to avoid spam trap

 

[Michael Kennedy]

"James Sweet" <jamessweet1@trashmail.net> wrote in message
news:_ji3k.662$Jj1.467@trndny02...

Trevor Wilson wrote:
"James Sweet" <jamessweet1@trashmail.net> wrote in message
news:bbd3k.5517$LN.3484@trndny03...
Trevor Wilson wrote:
"James Sweet" <jamessweet1@trashmail.net> wrote in message
news:Li43k.5498$LN.2938@trndny03...
Anyone who has ever owned a Volvo 240 wagon will know that there's one
really annoying design flaw in an otherwise nearly bulletproof car.
All the wiring for the rear wiper, power lock, defogger, center brake
light and license plate lights passes through the hinges so that it
gets bent 90 degrees each time the tailgate is opened resulting in a
need to replace the tailgate wiring harnesses about once every 5
years. I've seen some people wire around the hinges but that just
looks tacky to me. I'm curious if there's any modern super flexible
wire out there that can hold up to this repeated flexing? 18 AWG is
fine, none of them carry a particularly high current. There's room for
a bundle about the diameter of a pencil through each hinge. Ideas?
**Multi-Contact make a VERY tough, very flexible, 512 strand, silicon
sheathed wire which will last the distance. Farnell carry it. You may
need to buy quite a bit though.



Hmm, interesting, ok, I should specify though, anything I can get in the
US? Farnell may be willing to ship over here, but there's gotta be
something local.

**Here in Australia, we use this thing called 'Google'.

www.google.com

It is brilliant. You can find pretty much anything you want. Anyway, type
in 'farnell us' into the little box. From that you get a link to:

http://www.newark.com/cable-wire-accessories




Thanks smartass.

I figured I'd search for the product when I get home, unless someone knew
of a particularly good place to get it. I get sick of these snide "google
it" replies, if you don't have a helpful answer, don't reply at all. Half
the time Google is useless from all the stupid sites that hook searches
and lead to unrelated crap, particularly if you don't know the general
name of what you're looking for, and for many things that varies by
region.

People say google it when they don't know the answer to your question, but
they think it is easy to find on a search engine. I think people like this
participate on Usenet just to annoy the people with questions. I think if
you don't want to answer questions you shouldn't bother to participate on
Usenet.

I don't know where to find this wire and I'm sure that there are other
people don't either. It would be beneficial to the entire community to have
this knowledge... ie. the purpose of Usenet from the beginning.

Mike

 

[Michael Kennedy]

"James Sweet" <jamessweet1@trashmail.net> wrote in message
news:_ji3k.662$Jj1.467@trndny02...

Trevor Wilson wrote:
"James Sweet" <jamessweet1@trashmail.net> wrote in message
news:bbd3k.5517$LN.3484@trndny03...
Trevor Wilson wrote:
"James Sweet" <jamessweet1@trashmail.net> wrote in message
news:Li43k.5498$LN.2938@trndny03...
Anyone who has ever owned a Volvo 240 wagon will know that there's one
really annoying design flaw in an otherwise nearly bulletproof car.
All the wiring for the rear wiper, power lock, defogger, center brake
light and license plate lights passes through the hinges so that it
gets bent 90 degrees each time the tailgate is opened resulting in a
need to replace the tailgate wiring harnesses about once every 5
years. I've seen some people wire around the hinges but that just
looks tacky to me. I'm curious if there's any modern super flexible
wire out there that can hold up to this repeated flexing? 18 AWG is
fine, none of them carry a particularly high current. There's room for
a bundle about the diameter of a pencil through each hinge. Ideas?
**Multi-Contact make a VERY tough, very flexible, 512 strand, silicon
sheathed wire which will last the distance. Farnell carry it. You may
need to buy quite a bit though.



Hmm, interesting, ok, I should specify though, anything I can get in the
US? Farnell may be willing to ship over here, but there's gotta be
something local.

**Here in Australia, we use this thing called 'Google'.

www.google.com

It is brilliant. You can find pretty much anything you want. Anyway, type
in 'farnell us' into the little box. From that you get a link to:

http://www.newark.com/cable-wire-accessories




Thanks smartass.

I figured I'd search for the product when I get home, unless someone knew
of a particularly good place to get it. I get sick of these snide "google
it" replies, if you don't have a helpful answer, don't reply at all. Half
the time Google is useless from all the stupid sites that hook searches
and lead to unrelated crap, particularly if you don't know the general
name of what you're looking for, and for many things that varies by
region.

People say google it when they don't know the answer to your question, but
they think it is easy to find on a search engine. I think people like this
participate on Usenet just to annoy the people with questions. I think if
you don't want to answer questions you shouldn't bother to participate on
Usenet.

I don't know where to find this wire and I'm sure that there are other
people don't either. It would be beneficial to the entire community to have
this knowledge... ie. the purpose of Usenet from the beginning.

Mike

 

[Dave Plowman (News)]

In article <B8o3k.300$ul.209@trndny08>,
James Sweet <jamessweet1@trashmail.net> wrote:

Eeyore wrote:

"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote:

But you've been told what to use - and since you don't say where you
live

His email addy says 'trashmail', so I guess he lives in a trash can ?

Graham

If you bothered to check out trashmail.net, you'd find that it's an
email forwarding service. After my previous email account become so
flooded with spam that it was nearly unusable, I set up a number of
disposable forwarding accounts to my new one. If I start getting a bunch
of spam on one, I can kill it and switch to another while still
maintaining the same private email account.

That's not the point. Like so many you assume everyone knows where you
live - even the country let alone the area. Which makes it impossible to
recommend a local supplier. Why not include a sig which gives your
approximate location?

Unlike some, this is not completely anonymous, nor is it munged in any
way. Send an email to the trashmail address and it will land in my inbox.

Which is still a pain with spam, then.

--
*Preserve wildlife - Go pickle a squirrel*

Dave Plowman dave@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

 

[Dave Plowman (News)]

In article <B8o3k.300$ul.209@trndny08>,
James Sweet <jamessweet1@trashmail.net> wrote:

Eeyore wrote:

"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote:

But you've been told what to use - and since you don't say where you
live

His email addy says 'trashmail', so I guess he lives in a trash can ?

Graham

If you bothered to check out trashmail.net, you'd find that it's an
email forwarding service. After my previous email account become so
flooded with spam that it was nearly unusable, I set up a number of
disposable forwarding accounts to my new one. If I start getting a bunch
of spam on one, I can kill it and switch to another while still
maintaining the same private email account.

That's not the point. Like so many you assume everyone knows where you
live - even the country let alone the area. Which makes it impossible to
recommend a local supplier. Why not include a sig which gives your
approximate location?

Unlike some, this is not completely anonymous, nor is it munged in any
way. Send an email to the trashmail address and it will land in my inbox.

Which is still a pain with spam, then.

--
*Preserve wildlife - Go pickle a squirrel*

Dave Plowman dave@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

 

[Dave Plowman (News)]

In article <nuednQ1wD9fVrdPVnZ2dnUVZ_qqgnZ2d@comcast.com>,
Michael Kennedy <Mikek400@remthis.comcast.net> wrote:

People say google it when they don't know the answer to your question,
but they think it is easy to find on a search engine. I think people
like this participate on Usenet just to annoy the people with
questions. I think if you don't want to answer questions you shouldn't
bother to participate on Usenet.

I don't know where to find this wire and I'm sure that there are other
people don't either. It would be beneficial to the entire community to
have this knowledge... ie. the purpose of Usenet from the beginning.

The beauty of Google is it will give you the hits in your area first.
A Google here on 'silicone test lead cable' gives pages of hits and at the
start includes the suppliers I'd have tried first in the UK anyway.
Of course if you don't know what to Google for it doesn't help. But in
this case the OP had been advised what to look for.

--
*A closed mouth gathers no feet.*

Dave Plowman dave@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

 

[Dave Plowman (News)]

In article <nuednQ1wD9fVrdPVnZ2dnUVZ_qqgnZ2d@comcast.com>,
Michael Kennedy <Mikek400@remthis.comcast.net> wrote:

People say google it when they don't know the answer to your question,
but they think it is easy to find on a search engine. I think people
like this participate on Usenet just to annoy the people with
questions. I think if you don't want to answer questions you shouldn't
bother to participate on Usenet.

I don't know where to find this wire and I'm sure that there are other
people don't either. It would be beneficial to the entire community to
have this knowledge... ie. the purpose of Usenet from the beginning.

The beauty of Google is it will give you the hits in your area first.
A Google here on 'silicone test lead cable' gives pages of hits and at the
start includes the suppliers I'd have tried first in the UK anyway.
Of course if you don't know what to Google for it doesn't help. But in
this case the OP had been advised what to look for.

--
*A closed mouth gathers no feet.*

Dave Plowman dave@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

 

[bz]

Nicholas Sherlock <n.sherlock@gmail.com> wrote in news:484e33dd$0$14388
$8d2e0cab@news.newsgroup-binaries.com:

.....

Just get a GMail account. I use it without munging all the time. I get
thousands of spam messages piling up in my spam folder, but I can't
remember the last time that a spam message reached by inbox.

More and more often, usenet users block all postings from gmail accounts
and google groups postings because of all the spam and trolling that comes
from that direction.




--
bz 73 de N5BZ k

please pardon my infinite ignorance, the set-of-things-I-do-not-know is an
infinite set.

bz+ser@ch100-5.chem.lsu.edu remove ch100-5 to avoid spam trap

 

[bz]

Nicholas Sherlock <n.sherlock@gmail.com> wrote in news:484e33dd$0$14388
$8d2e0cab@news.newsgroup-binaries.com:

.....

Just get a GMail account. I use it without munging all the time. I get
thousands of spam messages piling up in my spam folder, but I can't
remember the last time that a spam message reached by inbox.

More and more often, usenet users block all postings from gmail accounts
and google groups postings because of all the spam and trolling that comes
from that direction.




--
bz 73 de N5BZ k

please pardon my infinite ignorance, the set-of-things-I-do-not-know is an
infinite set.

bz+ser@ch100-5.chem.lsu.edu remove ch100-5 to avoid spam trap

 

[William Sommerwerck]

It would make common sense to me to believe that the
relative humidity in a refrigerator would be pretty high.

I'd suggest you read a book on physics.

 

[William Sommerwerck]

It would make common sense to me to believe that the
relative humidity in a refrigerator would be pretty high.

I'd suggest you read a book on physics.

 

[William Sommerwerck]

It condenses on the walls because the relative humidity is high.

It condenses because it's cold.

The air in a refrigerator is very dry. This is one of the reasons vegetables
wilt -- they lose the moisture that "props up" the cell walls.

 

[William Sommerwerck]

It condenses on the walls because the relative humidity is high.

It condenses because it's cold.

The air in a refrigerator is very dry. This is one of the reasons vegetables
wilt -- they lose the moisture that "props up" the cell walls.

 

[bz]

corelliansolo@gmail.com wrote in news:0211d0c8-da99-4377-aae4-0bb3ec1d9663@
27g2000hsf.googlegroups.com:

Two suggestions:
1) stop top postinghttp://www.caliburn.nl/topposting.html

Good to see that netiquette is still around, and that the ng
netiquette is still around. Will bottom post from now on!

Thanks. Good manners are always appreciated.

2) watch the trash bins. ...

I actually trashed a better model VCR recently

Electronics should NOT go to landfill. Recycle.

, largely because did
not want to spend the time replacing all the parts (eject mechanism
was broken) Great, great machine for its time, but since it was mid
1990's, did not want to have it around anymore, did not go past 1999
for timer recordings. Great machine though, even hard to find on e-
bay (A broken version is selling for $5, but not worth it for me)

Any recommendations on new VHS machines? Particularly one that would
have good, high quality 4 head play back?

Sorry.

Of course, I could always
get this serviced as well, but is $70+ worth it?

You need to decide that yourself. My experience shows that most people
won't spend more than 1/3 the cost of a new unit to repair an old one.





--
bz

please pardon my infinite ignorance, the set-of-things-I-do-not-know is an
infinite set.

bz+spr@ch100-5.chem.lsu.edu remove ch100-5 to avoid spam trap

 

[bz]

corelliansolo@gmail.com wrote in news:0211d0c8-da99-4377-aae4-0bb3ec1d9663@
27g2000hsf.googlegroups.com:

Two suggestions:
1) stop top postinghttp://www.caliburn.nl/topposting.html

Good to see that netiquette is still around, and that the ng
netiquette is still around. Will bottom post from now on!

Thanks. Good manners are always appreciated.

2) watch the trash bins. ...

I actually trashed a better model VCR recently

Electronics should NOT go to landfill. Recycle.

, largely because did
not want to spend the time replacing all the parts (eject mechanism
was broken) Great, great machine for its time, but since it was mid
1990's, did not want to have it around anymore, did not go past 1999
for timer recordings. Great machine though, even hard to find on e-
bay (A broken version is selling for $5, but not worth it for me)

Any recommendations on new VHS machines? Particularly one that would
have good, high quality 4 head play back?

Sorry.

Of course, I could always
get this serviced as well, but is $70+ worth it?

You need to decide that yourself. My experience shows that most people
won't spend more than 1/3 the cost of a new unit to repair an old one.





--
bz

please pardon my infinite ignorance, the set-of-things-I-do-not-know is an
infinite set.

bz+spr@ch100-5.chem.lsu.edu remove ch100-5 to avoid spam trap

 

[DaveM]

"Silver Surfer" <SilverSurfer@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:9cudnWL88v59E9PVnZ2dnUVZ_rCtnZ2d@comcast.com...

Mr. Goldwasser,

No, I did not test the capacitor. Just ASSumed it was bad.

Your worm analogy was excellent. That's exactly what this "creature" looks
like.

Mr. DaveM,

Capacitor is 25 + 7.5 microfarads at 370V.

My humble abode is in Moundsville, West Virginia, US of A.

New capacitor is on the way from Appliance Parts Pro's warehouse in Kentucky.

My Master Card is taking a few days off to recover.


"DaveM" <masondg4499@comcast99.net> wrote in message
news:R82dnbsJP7e-YtDVnZ2dnUVZ_jydnZ2d@comcast.com...
"Silver Surfer" <SilverSurfer@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:RISdna9_8atFR9DVnZ2dnUVZ_t_inZ2d@comcast.com...
Took the cover off my Crosley air conditioner to find out why the compressor
motor was tripping its thermal overload a few seconds after kicking on.

The dual section running capacitor had a strange, twisty, grayish glob
coming out of its side. The stuff looked like one of those "snakes" that
the kids light on July 4th, but is was very hard and stuck tightly to the
capacitor body. Pried it off. Looked like a small hole where it came out.

I assumed that the capacitor had bought the farm and ordered a new one.
Ouch! Best price on the Internet was about $70. Is what I described
typically what's found when one of these capacitors fails?


What's the value of the capacitor?
Where do you live (City/State/Country)?

--
Dave M
MasonDG44 at comcast dot net (Just substitute the appropriate characters in
the address)

Experience: What you get when you don't get what you want

Thanks for replying,
I wasn't prying... I was just going to try to help find a source for the
capacitor close to your location, but not so pricey. But, since you've already
ordered, I won't go to that trouble.

Those multi-section caps can carry a hefty price tag, but in many cases, they
can be replaced by two (significantly cheaper) single-section caps. Mounting
style and space permitting, of course.

--
Dave M
MasonDG44 at comcast dot net (Just substitute the appropriate characters in the
address)

Experience: What you get when you don't get what you want

 

[DaveM]

"Silver Surfer" <SilverSurfer@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:9cudnWL88v59E9PVnZ2dnUVZ_rCtnZ2d@comcast.com...

Mr. Goldwasser,

No, I did not test the capacitor. Just ASSumed it was bad.

Your worm analogy was excellent. That's exactly what this "creature" looks
like.

Mr. DaveM,

Capacitor is 25 + 7.5 microfarads at 370V.

My humble abode is in Moundsville, West Virginia, US of A.

New capacitor is on the way from Appliance Parts Pro's warehouse in Kentucky.

My Master Card is taking a few days off to recover.


"DaveM" <masondg4499@comcast99.net> wrote in message
news:R82dnbsJP7e-YtDVnZ2dnUVZ_jydnZ2d@comcast.com...
"Silver Surfer" <SilverSurfer@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:RISdna9_8atFR9DVnZ2dnUVZ_t_inZ2d@comcast.com...
Took the cover off my Crosley air conditioner to find out why the compressor
motor was tripping its thermal overload a few seconds after kicking on.

The dual section running capacitor had a strange, twisty, grayish glob
coming out of its side. The stuff looked like one of those "snakes" that
the kids light on July 4th, but is was very hard and stuck tightly to the
capacitor body. Pried it off. Looked like a small hole where it came out.

I assumed that the capacitor had bought the farm and ordered a new one.
Ouch! Best price on the Internet was about $70. Is what I described
typically what's found when one of these capacitors fails?


What's the value of the capacitor?
Where do you live (City/State/Country)?

--
Dave M
MasonDG44 at comcast dot net (Just substitute the appropriate characters in
the address)

Experience: What you get when you don't get what you want

Thanks for replying,
I wasn't prying... I was just going to try to help find a source for the
capacitor close to your location, but not so pricey. But, since you've already
ordered, I won't go to that trouble.

Those multi-section caps can carry a hefty price tag, but in many cases, they
can be replaced by two (significantly cheaper) single-section caps. Mounting
style and space permitting, of course.

--
Dave M
MasonDG44 at comcast dot net (Just substitute the appropriate characters in the
address)

Experience: What you get when you don't get what you want

 

[bz]

"William Sommerwerck" <grizzledgeezer@comcast.net> wrote in
news:sdmdnTT9_cBM8NPVnZ2dnUVZ_qzinZ2d@comcast.com:

It condenses on the walls because the relative humidity is high.

It condenses because it's cold.

The air in a refrigerator is very dry. This is one of the reasons
vegetables wilt -- they lose the moisture that "props up" the cell
walls.

Actually, both of you were right, in a way.
The relative humidity in a refrigerator IS generally very high.
But the absolute humidity in a refrigerator is generally very LOW.

Relative humidity is the amount of water vapor in the air divided by the
amount of water vapor the air CAN hold at that temperature when it is
totally saturated with water vapor. Cold air holds less water vapor when
saturated than warm air.

Opening the door brings in air that contains more water vapor than the air
in the refrigerator can hold (the dew point of the incoming air is above
the temperature of the refrigerator) so water condenses on surfaces. Most
of the water condenses on the coldest surface which is the evaporator coil
of the refrigerator (the coil where the compressed freon evaporates,
cooling the coil).

As for batteries, I would expect that some kinds of batteries [Gel cells,
for example] would lose moisture in a refrigerator. I would NOT expect
sealed cells to lose moisture at a significant rate, when stored in the
lower part of the refrigerator, where fruits and veggies are usually
stored.


--
bz

please pardon my infinite ignorance, the set-of-things-I-do-not-know is an
infinite set.

bz+nanae@ch100-5.chem.lsu.edu

 

[bz]

"William Sommerwerck" <grizzledgeezer@comcast.net> wrote in
news:sdmdnTT9_cBM8NPVnZ2dnUVZ_qzinZ2d@comcast.com:

It condenses on the walls because the relative humidity is high.

It condenses because it's cold.

The air in a refrigerator is very dry. This is one of the reasons
vegetables wilt -- they lose the moisture that "props up" the cell
walls.

Actually, both of you were right, in a way.
The relative humidity in a refrigerator IS generally very high.
But the absolute humidity in a refrigerator is generally very LOW.

Relative humidity is the amount of water vapor in the air divided by the
amount of water vapor the air CAN hold at that temperature when it is
totally saturated with water vapor. Cold air holds less water vapor when
saturated than warm air.

Opening the door brings in air that contains more water vapor than the air
in the refrigerator can hold (the dew point of the incoming air is above
the temperature of the refrigerator) so water condenses on surfaces. Most
of the water condenses on the coldest surface which is the evaporator coil
of the refrigerator (the coil where the compressed freon evaporates,
cooling the coil).

As for batteries, I would expect that some kinds of batteries [Gel cells,
for example] would lose moisture in a refrigerator. I would NOT expect
sealed cells to lose moisture at a significant rate, when stored in the
lower part of the refrigerator, where fruits and veggies are usually
stored.


--
bz

please pardon my infinite ignorance, the set-of-things-I-do-not-know is an
infinite set.

bz+nanae@ch100-5.chem.lsu.edu