Toshiba TV29C90 problem; Image fades to black...

"Eeyore" <rabbitsfriendsandrelations@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:484BF914.67048E63@hotmail.com...
Arfa Daily wrote:

"Eeyore" wrote
Tim Phipps wrote:
Eeyore wrote:
Meat Plow wrote:

Besides, I can buy a 2000 watt amp brand new also made in China for
around $300 US.

I wouldn't expect it to work for very long.

Seems to me that you have a problem with anything made in China.

Not at all but the quality varies dramatically. I'm expecting to be
going
to Shanghai / Ningbo quite soon in fact.

You might also remember some time ago when I posted for help with a
dead
Studiomaster 700D. The fault turned out to be a bad power transformer
which was not economical to replace even by substitution with off the
shelf parts.

Only because our Indian sub-contractor had bankrupted the company.
Those
transformers were custom made by Toroid International which is a highly
respected
brand. I'm sorry you had that problem but it wasn't a design oversight
for sure.

Ah ... Studiomaster. I will remember that Graham, when I next get one in
that's giving me some grief ...

d;~}

Stop for a second to think how many tens of thousands were made and how
few you
see.

I just bought a 700D on ebay btw for a club install that's going 3 way
active
(for the HF drivers). You can see I do have confidence in my own products.

And you can always email me for repair tips.

Graham
Yes, I don't see that many. But always useful to have a 'contact' within a
company ...

Arfa
 
<corelliansolo@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:daf0e550-2e6b-48b5-b86d-92b6d89d15d5@l64g2000hse.googlegroups.com...
Hello,

I have a JVC HR-S3910U S-VHS machine which had a problem accepting
certain tapes. The eject mechanism would make a funny squeeling noise
i.e. Similar to the sound of wiping a cloth on glass.

Tried using WD-40 to correct the problem, but now the machine does not
play any tapes. Instead, it makes a whirring sound ever time I press
play. (I think I applied a little too much WD-40 in the gear area,
the two black wheels which drive the tapes)

Is there a way to clean it, and make it work again? If so, which
areas should I be looking at?

Any info. is helpful.
I'm just trying to suppress a gag reflex. It's been a long time since I've
encountered someone who actually thought they could fix something by
indiscriminately spraying WD-40 in there.
Back in the day, someone would occasionally bring in a car stereo with WD-40
literally dripping out of there when you tipped the piece up on it's side.

At the very least you are going to need to clean the WD of any rubber pieces
(belts or idlers) and off any drive surfaces which contact them. Even then
it's likely more WD will migrate back onto those drive surfaces.

Your original problem may have been nothing more than a bad belt, but at the
very least you have complicated the issue, perhaps effectively ruining and
practical hope of repair.

Sheesh.


Mark Z.
 
In article <Li43k.5498$LN.2938@trndny03>,
James Sweet <jamessweet1@trashmail.net> wrote:
Anyone who has ever owned a Volvo 240 wagon will know that there's one
really annoying design flaw in an otherwise nearly bulletproof car. All
the wiring for the rear wiper, power lock, defogger, center brake light
and license plate lights passes through the hinges so that it gets bent
90 degrees each time the tailgate is opened resulting in a need to
replace the tailgate wiring harnesses about once every 5 years. I've
seen some people wire around the hinges but that just looks tacky to me.
I'm curious if there's any modern super flexible wire out there that can
hold up to this repeated flexing? 18 AWG is fine, none of them carry a
particularly high current. There's room for a bundle about the diameter
of a pencil through each hinge. Ideas?
Silicone test lead wire. High current and very flexible. Something like
this:-
<http://cpc.farnell.com/jsp/level5/module.jsp?moduleId=cpc/255090.xml&sku=CBBR1700>

--
*Some people are alive only because it's illegal to kill them *

Dave Plowman dave@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.
 
In article <6w7icysstp.fsf@plus.seas.upenn.edu>,
Sam Goldwasser <sam@plus.seas.upenn.edu> wrote:

"Timelord" <timelord@cpbbs.synchro.net.remove-zgb-this> writes:

"Sam Goldwasser" <sam@plus.seas.upenn.edu> wrote in message
news:6w63smarx0.fsf@plus.seas.upenn.edu...
I have been a member in good standing with eBay since 1999. As readers
of Sam's Laser FAQ are probably aware, I have acquired a large number of
lasers and related items on eBay, most at bargain basement prices. All
[snip]

You should change your password right now!!! but other wise ignore it as
Ebay did not send it. I could tell you for sure if I had a copy of your
letter ( The first one ).

Has anyone actually read what I wrote in the linked page? :)

Every email I received from eBay was also present in "My Messages" on
"My eBay". And my account had indeed been suspended *before* I contacted
eBay about this mess.

Now is it possible I replied to some email awhile ago that triggered this?
I suppose it's possible, but highly unlikely.

This was not a phishing scheme, at least not one from outside eBay.
There is no cost to changing one's password, so I would just do it.

Joe Gwinn
 
After spraying WD-40 in your VCR (even a tiny amount) you should now throw
it in the garbage. You have likely destroyed it.
<corelliansolo@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:daf0e550-2e6b-48b5-b86d-92b6d89d15d5@l64g2000hse.googlegroups.com...
Hello,

I have a JVC HR-S3910U S-VHS machine which had a problem accepting
certain tapes. The eject mechanism would make a funny squeeling noise
i.e. Similar to the sound of wiping a cloth on glass.

Tried using WD-40 to correct the problem, but now the machine does not
play any tapes. Instead, it makes a whirring sound ever time I press
play. (I think I applied a little too much WD-40 in the gear area,
the two black wheels which drive the tapes)

Is there a way to clean it, and make it work again? If so, which
areas should I be looking at?

Any info. is helpful.
 
"James Sweet" <jamessweet1@trashmail.net> wrote in message
news:Li43k.5498$LN.2938@trndny03...
Anyone who has ever owned a Volvo 240 wagon will know that there's one
really annoying design flaw in an otherwise nearly bulletproof car. All
the wiring for the rear wiper, power lock, defogger, center brake light
and license plate lights passes through the hinges so that it gets bent 90
degrees each time the tailgate is opened resulting in a need to replace
the tailgate wiring harnesses about once every 5 years. I've seen some
people wire around the hinges but that just looks tacky to me. I'm curious
if there's any modern super flexible wire out there that can hold up to
this repeated flexing? 18 AWG is fine, none of them carry a particularly
high current. There's room for a bundle about the diameter of a pencil
through each hinge. Ideas?
Have you thoought about replacing it with a wireless door jam like they use
on many sliding doors on mini vans?

Mike
 
"James Sweet" <jamessweet1@trashmail.net> wrote in message
news:Li43k.5498$LN.2938@trndny03...
Anyone who has ever owned a Volvo 240 wagon will know that there's one
really annoying design flaw in an otherwise nearly bulletproof car. All
the wiring for the rear wiper, power lock, defogger, center brake light
and license plate lights passes through the hinges so that it gets bent 90
degrees each time the tailgate is opened resulting in a need to replace
the tailgate wiring harnesses about once every 5 years. I've seen some
people wire around the hinges but that just looks tacky to me. I'm curious
if there's any modern super flexible wire out there that can hold up to
this repeated flexing? 18 AWG is fine, none of them carry a particularly
high current. There's room for a bundle about the diameter of a pencil
through each hinge. Ideas?
Have you thoought about replacing it with a wireless door jam like they use
on many sliding doors on mini vans?

Mike
 
James Sweet <jamessweet1@trashmail.net> wrote in
news:pfe3k.3088$1x.2913@trndny06:

clifto wrote:
William Sommerwerck wrote:
"Charles" <charlesschuler@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:5f6dnWZN_8Ocz9HVnZ2dnUVZ_qLinZ2d@comcast.com...
"William Sommerwerck" <grizzledgeezer@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:2eGdnUPXhe21q9HVnZ2dnUVZ_vzinZ2d@comcast.com...
It is not generally considered a good idea to store batteries in a
refrigerator, unless they are sealed in moisture-tight wrapping.
The low relative humidity tends to cause them to dry out
otherwise.
Any reliable sources for this?
"I read it somewhere." It's almost common sense.

It would make common sense to me to believe that the relative
humidity in a refrigerator would be pretty high.



It is, put a hygrometer in there sometime.
every time you open the door,moist room air enters and condenses on the
cold walls and items inside. that's why the freezer has to have a defrost
cycle or be defrosted periodically,and there's a drip pan underneath the
fridge.

My folks used to yell at us kids for having the fridge door open too long.

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net
 
James Sweet <jamessweet1@trashmail.net> wrote in
news:pfe3k.3088$1x.2913@trndny06:

clifto wrote:
William Sommerwerck wrote:
"Charles" <charlesschuler@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:5f6dnWZN_8Ocz9HVnZ2dnUVZ_qLinZ2d@comcast.com...
"William Sommerwerck" <grizzledgeezer@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:2eGdnUPXhe21q9HVnZ2dnUVZ_vzinZ2d@comcast.com...
It is not generally considered a good idea to store batteries in a
refrigerator, unless they are sealed in moisture-tight wrapping.
The low relative humidity tends to cause them to dry out
otherwise.
Any reliable sources for this?
"I read it somewhere." It's almost common sense.

It would make common sense to me to believe that the relative
humidity in a refrigerator would be pretty high.



It is, put a hygrometer in there sometime.
every time you open the door,moist room air enters and condenses on the
cold walls and items inside. that's why the freezer has to have a defrost
cycle or be defrosted periodically,and there's a drip pan underneath the
fridge.

My folks used to yell at us kids for having the fridge door open too long.

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net
 
"James Sweet" <jamessweet1@trashmail.net> wrote in message
news:bbd3k.5517$LN.3484@trndny03...
Trevor Wilson wrote:
"James Sweet" <jamessweet1@trashmail.net> wrote in message
news:Li43k.5498$LN.2938@trndny03...
Anyone who has ever owned a Volvo 240 wagon will know that there's one
really annoying design flaw in an otherwise nearly bulletproof car. All
the wiring for the rear wiper, power lock, defogger, center brake light
and license plate lights passes through the hinges so that it gets bent
90 degrees each time the tailgate is opened resulting in a need to
replace the tailgate wiring harnesses about once every 5 years. I've
seen some people wire around the hinges but that just looks tacky to me.
I'm curious if there's any modern super flexible wire out there that can
hold up to this repeated flexing? 18 AWG is fine, none of them carry a
particularly high current. There's room for a bundle about the diameter
of a pencil through each hinge. Ideas?

**Multi-Contact make a VERY tough, very flexible, 512 strand, silicon
sheathed wire which will last the distance. Farnell carry it. You may
need to buy quite a bit though.




Hmm, interesting, ok, I should specify though, anything I can get in the
US? Farnell may be willing to ship over here, but there's gotta be
something local.
**Here in Australia, we use this thing called 'Google'.

www.google.com

It is brilliant. You can find pretty much anything you want. Anyway, type in
'farnell us' into the little box. From that you get a link to:

http://www.newark.com/cable-wire-accessories


--
Trevor Wilson
www.rageaudio.com.au
 
corelliansolo@gmail.com wrote in
news:e0c0606a-4522-45e2-bfda-69febc24832f@34g2000hsh.googlegroups.com:

.....
LOL --- Yes, I think I got carried away with the WD-40, will have to
be more careful next time, not to do that, but to post here first for
any advice :)

I got carried away: Will clean the surfaces and belt(s) as
suggested. Are there any WD-40 removers on the market? :)
Pure alcohol.
Avoid methanol (unless you have very good ventilation) because it is toxic,
vapors toxic and it also absorbed through the skin.

Avoid 'rubbing alcohol', unless it is pure isopropyl alcohol, because it
can leave a residue

You can use 'Ever-clear' (195 proof vodka) [and even drink the part you
don't use]. :)

Keep clear of ignition sources while using.

Thanks for the helpful info.

P.S. I think I was inspired by an article on the web, which showed how
to fix a DVD player's drive mechanism (FYI, the Panasonic RV-32) using
WD-40. Thought that WD-40 would be a useful tool -- You guys are
right, will have to be more careful next time, and post here first for
any advice :)




--
bz 73 de N5BZ k

please pardon my infinite ignorance, the set-of-things-I-do-not-know is an
infinite set.

bz+ser@ch100-5.chem.lsu.edu remove ch100-5 to avoid spam trap
 
In article <_ji3k.662$Jj1.467@trndny02>,
James Sweet <jamessweet1@trashmail.net> wrote:
I figured I'd search for the product when I get home, unless someone
knew of a particularly good place to get it. I get sick of these snide
"google it" replies, if you don't have a helpful answer, don't reply at
all. Half the time Google is useless from all the stupid sites that hook
searches and lead to unrelated crap, particularly if you don't know the
general name of what you're looking for, and for many things that varies
by region.
But you've been told what to use - and since you don't say where you live,
Google is an excellent way of finding where to buy it.

--
*Support bacteria - they're the only culture some people have *

Dave Plowman dave@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.
 
"Sam Goldwasser" <sam@plus.seas.upenn.edu> wrote in message
news:6wabhuh0ya.fsf@plus.seas.upenn.edu...
anglomont@yahoo.com writes:

Can anyone please confirm whether following microwave oven components
are out

-rectifier hvr062 (2x062h 802):tested with analog ohm meter-short both
directions

Didn't check the number but assuming it's a diode, it is Dead.

-diode hvr1x80195:..open in both directions (is there another 9kv,450
ma diode?)

May be good. Forward voltage drop is higher than the voltage supplied
by your ohmmeter.

There's plenty of 12 kV 500 mA diodes.

--- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/
Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/
+Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/lasersam.htm
| Mirror Sites: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/F_mirror.html
If the one that's short is the series reccy for the mag's HT supply, be
aware that the mag itself may also be faulty, as that is sometimes the cause
of the diode failing in the first place.

Arfa
 
"Sam Goldwasser" <sam@plus.seas.upenn.edu> wrote in message
news:6wiqwlsb66.fsf@plus.seas.upenn.edu...
"Mark D. Zacharias" <mzacharias@nonsense.net> writes:

"Sam Goldwasser" <sam@plus.seas.upenn.edu> wrote in message
news:6w3anpyjsr.fsf@plus.seas.upenn.edu...
Don Bowey <dbowey@comcast.net> writes:

On 6/6/08 7:40 PM, in article 6w63smarx0.fsf@plus.seas.upenn.edu, "Sam
Goldwasser" <sam@plus.seas.upenn.edu> wrote:

I have been a member in good standing with eBay since 1999. As
readers
of Sam's Laser FAQ are probably aware, I have acquired a large
number
of
lasers and related items on eBay, most at bargain basement prices.
All
in
all I have been very satisfied with the eBay experience. Until now.

For a blow-by-blow saga of what I'm experiencing now, please go to

http://repairfaq.cis.upenn.edu/Misc/ebayhorror1.htm

I will be updating this as it plays out. I expect the outcome to be
satisfactory, but the route it's taking is like one of those
nightmares
where you're trapped on a 15 dimensional mobius strip. :)

Comments welcome!

I've not had a problem of that kind with the idiots, but I have
attempted
to
do a problem resolution with them and find them useless droids.

To minimize contact with them I even quit using Paypal, as they wanted
too
much personal information such as checking account, etc. I don't
trust
them
and never will.

Were I you, I'd talk with my attorney about the bad experience.

Good luck; you'll need it.;

For me, I do eBay for fun. It's not like a day job so being kicked off
for a few days may be a good thing. Other than the time I've spent
trying to communicate with the droids and writing up the saga, it gives
me more time for other things. Perhaps they will have done me a favor
if I never get back on! :)

But I could just imagine if this happened to someone whose business
was selling on eBay.

--- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/
Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/
+Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/lasersam.htm
| Mirror Sites: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/F_mirror.html

Important: Anything sent to the email address in the message header
above
is
ignored unless my full name AND either lasers or electronics is
included
in the
subject line. Or, you can contact me via the Feedback Form in the
FAQs.


Very possibly a phishing e-mail. Any time you get a suspicious e-mail
from
"Ebay" you should NOT respond to any link in the suspect e-mail. Go
directly
to Ebay's security center and give them the details, including the source
code of the suspect e-mail.

Since you clicked on the link contained in the e-mail it is important you
do
virus and malware scans IMMEDIATELY.

I read email in Mutt (a text program) on unix. For me to follow a link
requires copying and pasting, which I will only do IF the URL contains
the primary domain of the supposed sender. This I only do rarely.
And with eBay, there is always the duplicate copy in the "My Messages",
which isn't blocked by being suspended. And don't forgate that those
bid cancellation emails had to have originated from within the eBay
system.

Thanks for your thoughts though. :)

--- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/
Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/
+Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/lasersam.htm
| Mirror Sites: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/F_mirror.html
Droids are everywhere now. I get phoney bank e-mails all the time, and they
always start "Dear custooma" or some such mis-spelled nonsense, and the
address that they come from, and have as the reply link, is always a
corruption of the bank's 'real' primary domain. However, a couple of months
back, I received a phishing mail which had, as the first part of the sending
and reply address, the genuine bank's URL.

I mailed the real bank customer service department to inform them that
someone had managed to hijack their primary domain. I went to a lot of
trouble to point out that this was not your usual phishing mail, and was
likely to fool customers who were not *really* paying attention. Back came a
reply saying that what I had experienced was a spoof mail that was really a
phishing exercise and I should not respond to it yada yada yada in full
blown kiddie talk. I replied, and suggested that they were not understanding
what I was saying, and that this was not your standard spoof mail, and that
somehow, someone had managed to gain access to their server. I further
suggested that they should pass this up the chain to someone who better
understood the implications.

Suddenly, last week, I get a form letter from the bank, detailing exactly
what I had told them, and telling not to respond to any such mails in any
way. If the droids had listened to me in the first place, they could have
got on the case two months ago.

Still, it just goes to show that hackers can get into these systems, no
matter how high the security level, and potentially wreak havoc. Good luck
at getting it resolved.

Arfa
 
"Franc Zabkar" <fzabkar@iinternode.on.net> wrote in message
news:eek:cbp44tgub0ng0gneu26ghf7im09l7dplu@4ax.com...
On Sun, 8 Jun 2008 13:53:48 -0400, "Bishoop" <none@nowhere.none> put
finger to keyboard and composed:

I have an Advent TV that has the RF input connector broken off. I removed
the back to see what I could do to make repairs.

The RF connector is an integral part some "module" that is soldered to a
PC
board.

Anyone have any ideas on where to find board level components so I can
make
the repair myself. I'm just not willing to put out 100 bux for the whole
circuit board.

Thanks....

If this module is a large rectangular metal can, then you are looking
at a tuner. These can be purchased as complete modules, or as
refurbished exchange units, or you can repair the existing tuner by
removing the broken connector and adapting and soldering a replacement
connector to the tuner housing.

IIRC, I used to use this type of adapter and cut the bottom end off:
http://www.futurlec.com/Pictures/AV023.jpg

You will have to solder a short wire between the centre pin and the
tuner PCB. Before soldering the connector to the can, you should
roughen up the contact areas with sandpaper.

- Franc Zabkar
--
Please remove one 'i' from my address when replying by email.
As I indicated in an earlier reply post to this thread I was able to
initiate a repair and the TV is working through the RF connector just like
brand new.

Thanks to all that replied with helpful tips.
 
"Franc Zabkar" <fzabkar@iinternode.on.net> wrote in message
news:eek:cbp44tgub0ng0gneu26ghf7im09l7dplu@4ax.com...
On Sun, 8 Jun 2008 13:53:48 -0400, "Bishoop" <none@nowhere.none> put
finger to keyboard and composed:

I have an Advent TV that has the RF input connector broken off. I removed
the back to see what I could do to make repairs.

The RF connector is an integral part some "module" that is soldered to a
PC
board.

Anyone have any ideas on where to find board level components so I can
make
the repair myself. I'm just not willing to put out 100 bux for the whole
circuit board.

Thanks....

If this module is a large rectangular metal can, then you are looking
at a tuner. These can be purchased as complete modules, or as
refurbished exchange units, or you can repair the existing tuner by
removing the broken connector and adapting and soldering a replacement
connector to the tuner housing.

IIRC, I used to use this type of adapter and cut the bottom end off:
http://www.futurlec.com/Pictures/AV023.jpg

You will have to solder a short wire between the centre pin and the
tuner PCB. Before soldering the connector to the can, you should
roughen up the contact areas with sandpaper.

- Franc Zabkar
--
Please remove one 'i' from my address when replying by email.
As I indicated in an earlier reply post to this thread I was able to
initiate a repair and the TV is working through the RF connector just like
brand new.

Thanks to all that replied with helpful tips.
 
"Silver Surfer" <SilverSurfer@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:RISdna9_8atFR9DVnZ2dnUVZ_t_inZ2d@comcast.com...
Took the cover off my Crosley air conditioner to find out why the compressor
motor was tripping its thermal overload a few seconds after kicking on.

The dual section running capacitor had a strange, twisty, grayish glob coming
out of its side. The stuff looked like one of those "snakes" that the kids
light on July 4th, but is was very hard and stuck tightly to the capacitor
body. Pried it off. Looked like a small hole where it came out.

I assumed that the capacitor had bought the farm and ordered a new one. Ouch!
Best price on the Internet was about $70. Is what I described typically
what's found when one of these capacitors fails?

What's the value of the capacitor?
Where do you live (City/State/Country)?

--
Dave M
MasonDG44 at comcast dot net (Just substitute the appropriate characters in the
address)

Experience: What you get when you don't get what you want
 
"Arfa Daily" <arfa.daily@ntlworld.com> wrote in
news:x%j3k.64139$Bz2.52107@newsfe28.ams2:

I mailed the real bank customer service department to inform them that
someone had managed to hijack their primary domain. I went to a lot of
trouble to point out that this was not your usual phishing mail, and was
Reminds me of an experience I had. At my work I received an email
for someone inquiring about our service. I dutifully replied with
the requested information. I then get a request wanting to know
how much it would be for 6 months advance payment. I again replied
with the numbers. The next email from them was with a name, address,
CC number and all the info I'd need to run the card with a request
to do so. Thing is, we require a contract for our services that
can only be filled out in person. I explained this to the emailer.
They're reply was to insist that "this is very easy for you to do.
Just run the card." This confirmed my suspicion that it was a known
scam for my line of work.

Anyway, now to the good part. Realizing this person was trying to
use stolen information, I tried calling Visa to report it. Just
a bunch of droids. Eventually I did get to someone in their security
department that told me is was a bank card issued by Washington
Mutual. So I called them. More droids. At one point I had to hang
up on one guy because I could barely hear him and his accent was so
thick I don't think it would have mattered if I could hear him.

So finally, about an hour into this exercise of being bounced back
and forth between departments, I get a hold of someone to give the
card info to. I _COULD NOT_ get them to understand that I was
trying to report a card that was being used fraudulently and that
they needed to contact the owner to let them know. Further more,
they wanted _MY_ personal information.

So, here I was, trying to be the nice guy to report a stolen card
so the owner doesn't have his account wiped out. HA!!!! Good luck!!

Perhaps I should have just Googled the card owner and called them
myself. Probably would have taken all of five minutes.

Brian
--
http://www.skywise711.com - Lasers, Seismology, Astronomy, Skepticism
Seismic FAQ: http://www.skywise711.com/SeismicFAQ/SeismicFAQ.html
Quake "predictions": http://www.skywise711.com/quakes/EQDB/index.html
Sed quis custodiet ipsos Custodes?
 
Ramkumar Ramaswamy <ramkumar.ramaswamy@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:7bf66298-79ae-4fa8-9e4c-b24e4e92e598@a9g2000prl.googlegroups.com...
Would anyone have a schematic for the following vintage radio? Does
not seem to be a well-known model number.

Make: Philips
Model No: B5CA 66U (as seen on rear panel)
Year: Probably mid 1950s
Country where made: India

Thanks - Ram.
try
rec.antiques.radio+phono

i would have said B5... was late 60s if European.


--
General electronic repairs, most things repaired, other than TVs and PCs
http://www.divdev.fsnet.co.uk/repairs.htm

Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
 
Ramkumar Ramaswamy <ramkumar.ramaswamy@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:7bf66298-79ae-4fa8-9e4c-b24e4e92e598@a9g2000prl.googlegroups.com...
Would anyone have a schematic for the following vintage radio? Does
not seem to be a well-known model number.

Make: Philips
Model No: B5CA 66U (as seen on rear panel)
Year: Probably mid 1950s
Country where made: India

Thanks - Ram.
try
rec.antiques.radio+phono

i would have said B5... was late 60s if European.


--
General electronic repairs, most things repaired, other than TVs and PCs
http://www.divdev.fsnet.co.uk/repairs.htm

Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
 

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