Toshiba TV29C90 problem; Image fades to black...

[Dave Plowman (News)]

In article <484e33dd$0$14388$8d2e0cab@news.newsgroup-binaries.com>,
Nicholas Sherlock <n.sherlock@gmail.com> wrote:

Just get a GMail account. I use it without munging all the time. I get
thousands of spam messages piling up in my spam folder, but I can't
remember the last time that a spam message reached by inbox.

I've just unblocked Gmail after blocking it totally because of the amount
of spam that originates from it. And I'd guess others do the same. And the
amount of spam coming from it appears not to have reduced so I'll block it
again.
Anyone who has something interesting to say of these groups usually gets a
reply so I'll see the original that way.

--
*24 hours in a day ... 24 beers in a case ... coincidence? *

Dave Plowman dave@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

 

[GMAN]

In article <daf0e550-2e6b-48b5-b86d-92b6d89d15d5@l64g2000hse.googlegroups.com>, corelliansolo@gmail.com wrote:

Hello,

I have a JVC HR-S3910U S-VHS machine which had a problem accepting
certain tapes. The eject mechanism would make a funny squeeling noise
i.e. Similar to the sound of wiping a cloth on glass.

Tried using WD-40 to correct the problem, but now the machine does not
play any tapes. Instead, it makes a whirring sound ever time I press
play. (I think I applied a little too much WD-40 in the gear area,
the two black wheels which drive the tapes)

Why put a water displacer product into a VCR?

If it slides, use a lubricant like Lubriplate (White Lithium Grease)or
MolyLube. If it spins , oil it with 3 in 1 or sewing machine oil sparingly.
Usually only 1 small drop.

People use WD-40 so incorrectly.

Is there a way to clean it, and make it work again? If so, which
areas should I be looking at?

Any info. is helpful.

 

[GMAN]

In article <0d36dbfc-66a9-412f-952f-474066913e9f@z72g2000hsb.googlegroups.com>, corelliansolo@gmail.com wrote:

On Jun 9, 10:39 am, "Mike S" <nospam> wrote:
After spraying WD-40 in your VCR (even a tiny amount) you should now throw
it in the garbage. You have likely destroyed it.<corellians...@gmail.com
wrote in message

news:daf0e550-2e6b-48b5-b86d-92b6d89d15d5@l64g2000hse.googlegroups.com...

Hello,

I have a JVC HR-S3910U S-VHS machine which had a problem accepting
certain tapes. The eject mechanism would make a funny squeeling noise
i.e. Similar to the sound of wiping a cloth on glass.

Tried using WD-40 to correct the problem, but now the machine does not
play any tapes. Instead, it makes a whirring sound ever time I press
play. (I think I applied a little too much WD-40 in the gear area,
the two black wheels which drive the tapes)

Is there a way to clean it, and make it work again? If so, which
areas should I be looking at?

Any info. is helpful.

LOL --- Yes, I think I got carried away with the WD-40, will have to
be more careful next time, not to do that, but to post here first for
any advice.
What we are all tring to say is what drove you to think that a water displacer

product sprayed willy nilly into an electronics device would benefit you in
anyway?

Did someone suggest this to you or did you read it on the internet? If so, let
us know where the advice came from , like say from a Wikipedia article or the
like so we can correct the fool.

I got carried away: Will clean the surfaces and belt(s) as
suggested. Are there any WD-40 removers on the market?

Thanks for the helpful info.

 

[GMAN]

In article <0d36dbfc-66a9-412f-952f-474066913e9f@z72g2000hsb.googlegroups.com>, corelliansolo@gmail.com wrote:

On Jun 9, 10:39 am, "Mike S" <nospam> wrote:
After spraying WD-40 in your VCR (even a tiny amount) you should now throw
it in the garbage. You have likely destroyed it.<corellians...@gmail.com
wrote in message

news:daf0e550-2e6b-48b5-b86d-92b6d89d15d5@l64g2000hse.googlegroups.com...

Hello,

I have a JVC HR-S3910U S-VHS machine which had a problem accepting
certain tapes. The eject mechanism would make a funny squeeling noise
i.e. Similar to the sound of wiping a cloth on glass.

Tried using WD-40 to correct the problem, but now the machine does not
play any tapes. Instead, it makes a whirring sound ever time I press
play. (I think I applied a little too much WD-40 in the gear area,
the two black wheels which drive the tapes)

Is there a way to clean it, and make it work again? If so, which
areas should I be looking at?

Any info. is helpful.

LOL --- Yes, I think I got carried away with the WD-40, will have to
be more careful next time, not to do that, but to post here first for
any advice.

I got carried away: Will clean the surfaces and belt(s) as
suggested. Are there any WD-40 removers on the market?

Yes, the trash can.

You could try this

http://www.falconsafety.com/dustOff/circuitBoard/ProductListing.
aspx?GroupId=101


or


http://shop.willyselectronics.com/browse.cfm/4,336.html

 

[GMAN]

In article <0d36dbfc-66a9-412f-952f-474066913e9f@z72g2000hsb.googlegroups.com>, corelliansolo@gmail.com wrote:

On Jun 9, 10:39 am, "Mike S" <nospam> wrote:
After spraying WD-40 in your VCR (even a tiny amount) you should now throw
it in the garbage. You have likely destroyed it.<corellians...@gmail.com
wrote in message

news:daf0e550-2e6b-48b5-b86d-92b6d89d15d5@l64g2000hse.googlegroups.com...

Hello,

I have a JVC HR-S3910U S-VHS machine which had a problem accepting
certain tapes. The eject mechanism would make a funny squeeling noise
i.e. Similar to the sound of wiping a cloth on glass.

Tried using WD-40 to correct the problem, but now the machine does not
play any tapes. Instead, it makes a whirring sound ever time I press
play. (I think I applied a little too much WD-40 in the gear area,
the two black wheels which drive the tapes)

Is there a way to clean it, and make it work again? If so, which
areas should I be looking at?

Any info. is helpful.

LOL --- Yes, I think I got carried away with the WD-40, will have to
be more careful next time, not to do that, but to post here first for
any advice.

I got carried away: Will clean the surfaces and belt(s) as
suggested. Are there any WD-40 removers on the market?

Yes, the trash can.

You could try this

http://www.falconsafety.com/dustOff/circuitBoard/ProductListing.
aspx?GroupId=101


or


http://shop.willyselectronics.com/browse.cfm/4,336.html

 

[GMAN]

In article <7i6s449jdij8bph01h433mjvmj6l9ibro2@4ax.com>, Father Guido <FG@no.where> wrote:

On Mon, 09 Jun 2008 13:12:41 -0400, Meat Plow <meat@petitmorte.net
wrote:

On Mon, 09 Jun 2008 17:03:25 +0000, Father Guido wrote:

Hi,

I have a Royal 80MX paper shredder that won't shred (go forward), it
goes backwards fine so the motor etc. are working OK. This just
happened suddenly last week. It's as if the paper detection circuit
doesn't recognize paper being inserted. I took it apart and their is a
small plug in connector on the main circuit board with 4 wires leading
to a small trianglular shaped component (numbered only 0321, which may
be a date code for all I know) with two wires going to each of what
looks like 2 small blue plastic lenses. I assume that when paper is
inserted a circuit (of light?) is broken telling the machine to turn
on and shred in automatic mode. I found nothing on the other side of
the paper entrance, so maybe it bounces light off of the chromed
roller. Anyway, getting a replacement part will be impossible, but...
if I knew how this actually worked I could maybe short out the sockets
on the main board to make it think/detect there is always paper in it
so it would always work, then I could just turn it off to stop it, and
turn it on when I wanted to shred.

So there is a manual reverse switch but no manual forward?

It has a REV OFF AUTO switch. I am assuming that if I can fake the
paper sensor into working (all the time) I could leave the shredder in
OFF position, and shred (continuously) when I put the shredder into
AUTO, then just put to OFF when finished. No more autofeed, just
straight OFF and continuous ON (in auto switch loaction). For all the
shredding I do just having the equivalent to a manual REV OFF FWD is
all I need. Actually I already bought a bigger shredder, but if I can
fix it I can give it to my daughter instead of the dump.

You could try shorting different pairs of wires that go to the sensor
together. They are very low voltage/current and you've got nothing to
lose if you aren't trying to repair it correctly. You could also try to
determine the voltage/current requirements of the motor and rig up some
external supply. Lost of things you could experiment with, just depends on
your level of curiosity and ambition.

Apparently parts are very hard to come by, especially for a machine
several years old. If I break it, I break it. I have nothing to lose.

Thanks for your help.

Norm

You dont want a continous ON. It can overheat the motor and burn down your
home, business etc...

 

[GMAN]

In article <7i6s449jdij8bph01h433mjvmj6l9ibro2@4ax.com>, Father Guido <FG@no.where> wrote:

On Mon, 09 Jun 2008 13:12:41 -0400, Meat Plow <meat@petitmorte.net
wrote:

On Mon, 09 Jun 2008 17:03:25 +0000, Father Guido wrote:

Hi,

I have a Royal 80MX paper shredder that won't shred (go forward), it
goes backwards fine so the motor etc. are working OK. This just
happened suddenly last week. It's as if the paper detection circuit
doesn't recognize paper being inserted. I took it apart and their is a
small plug in connector on the main circuit board with 4 wires leading
to a small trianglular shaped component (numbered only 0321, which may
be a date code for all I know) with two wires going to each of what
looks like 2 small blue plastic lenses. I assume that when paper is
inserted a circuit (of light?) is broken telling the machine to turn
on and shred in automatic mode. I found nothing on the other side of
the paper entrance, so maybe it bounces light off of the chromed
roller. Anyway, getting a replacement part will be impossible, but...
if I knew how this actually worked I could maybe short out the sockets
on the main board to make it think/detect there is always paper in it
so it would always work, then I could just turn it off to stop it, and
turn it on when I wanted to shred.

So there is a manual reverse switch but no manual forward?

It has a REV OFF AUTO switch. I am assuming that if I can fake the
paper sensor into working (all the time) I could leave the shredder in
OFF position, and shred (continuously) when I put the shredder into
AUTO, then just put to OFF when finished. No more autofeed, just
straight OFF and continuous ON (in auto switch loaction). For all the
shredding I do just having the equivalent to a manual REV OFF FWD is
all I need. Actually I already bought a bigger shredder, but if I can
fix it I can give it to my daughter instead of the dump.

You could try shorting different pairs of wires that go to the sensor
together. They are very low voltage/current and you've got nothing to
lose if you aren't trying to repair it correctly. You could also try to
determine the voltage/current requirements of the motor and rig up some
external supply. Lost of things you could experiment with, just depends on
your level of curiosity and ambition.

Apparently parts are very hard to come by, especially for a machine
several years old. If I break it, I break it. I have nothing to lose.

Thanks for your help.

Norm

You dont want a continous ON. It can overheat the motor and burn down your
home, business etc...

 

[gareth magennis]

"Sam Goldwasser" <sam@plus.seas.upenn.edu> wrote in message
news:6wbq2bbetz.fsf@plus.seas.upenn.edu...

This is a final report on this problem.

I believe it was actually the solder connections to the PCB and not the
relay contacts themselves.

Kenwood actually provided easy acces to the bottom of the PCB. A large
square section was partially punched out with only 4 thin metal strips
holding it in place. So, cutting two on one side allowed the relevant
part of the botton plate to be swung out of the way exposing everything
but the AC line circuitry.

When duplicating the erratic behavior, gently touching one of the relay
pins would make the sound come and go. While there was no visible crack,
the relay's solder terminals are physically the stationary
contacts. So, the constant pounding over the years must have loosened
at least one of them just enough to make marginal contact with the solder
on this single-sided PCB.

I removed the relay entirely and inspected the interior. The contact
points
were in perfect condition with no sign of wear or burning.

After reinstalling the relay, the receiver has been 100 percent reliable.

Thanks to all who replied.

--- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/
Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/
+Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/lasersam.htm
| Mirror Sites: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/F_mirror.html

Important: Anything sent to the email address in the message header above
is
ignored unless my full name AND either lasers or electronics is included
in the
subject line. Or, you can contact me via the Feedback Form in the FAQs.

 

[gareth magennis]

"Sam Goldwasser" <sam@plus.seas.upenn.edu> wrote in message
news:6wbq2bbetz.fsf@plus.seas.upenn.edu...

This is a final report on this problem.

I believe it was actually the solder connections to the PCB and not the
relay contacts themselves.

Kenwood actually provided easy acces to the bottom of the PCB. A large
square section was partially punched out with only 4 thin metal strips
holding it in place. So, cutting two on one side allowed the relevant
part of the botton plate to be swung out of the way exposing everything
but the AC line circuitry.

When duplicating the erratic behavior, gently touching one of the relay
pins would make the sound come and go. While there was no visible crack,
the relay's solder terminals are physically the stationary
contacts. So, the constant pounding over the years must have loosened
at least one of them just enough to make marginal contact with the solder
on this single-sided PCB.

I removed the relay entirely and inspected the interior. The contact
points
were in perfect condition with no sign of wear or burning.

After reinstalling the relay, the receiver has been 100 percent reliable.

Thanks to all who replied.

--- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/
Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/
+Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/lasersam.htm
| Mirror Sites: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/F_mirror.html

Important: Anything sent to the email address in the message header above
is
ignored unless my full name AND either lasers or electronics is included
in the
subject line. Or, you can contact me via the Feedback Form in the FAQs.

 

[bz]

me@privacy.net wrote in news:r98t44hq4dmkngoejsa9q2l66e0tu9afh4@4ax.com:

OK ..... question for the group

Would anyone even 'consider" buying a new TUBE TV now
days?

Depends on the price.
There should be some very good deals available.
Get them to throw in a DTV converter box and you have a set that can work
for 20 years.

The Sony TV we use has been running over 20 years. I did replace a bad
tuner in it about 10 years ago and resoldered a resistor in the vertical
circuit.

Or would YOU strictly buy flat panels only if buying
new?

Again, it depends on the price and what incentives they throw in, the space
available for a tv, etc.

Also, LONG long term failure rates for flat panels are unknown.






--
bz 73 de N5BZ k

please pardon my infinite ignorance, the set-of-things-I-do-not-know is an
infinite set.

bz+ser@ch100-5.chem.lsu.edu remove ch100-5 to avoid spam trap

 

[bz]

me@privacy.net wrote in news:r98t44hq4dmkngoejsa9q2l66e0tu9afh4@4ax.com:

OK ..... question for the group

Would anyone even 'consider" buying a new TUBE TV now
days?

Depends on the price.
There should be some very good deals available.
Get them to throw in a DTV converter box and you have a set that can work
for 20 years.

The Sony TV we use has been running over 20 years. I did replace a bad
tuner in it about 10 years ago and resoldered a resistor in the vertical
circuit.

Or would YOU strictly buy flat panels only if buying
new?

Again, it depends on the price and what incentives they throw in, the space
available for a tv, etc.

Also, LONG long term failure rates for flat panels are unknown.






--
bz 73 de N5BZ k

please pardon my infinite ignorance, the set-of-things-I-do-not-know is an
infinite set.

bz+ser@ch100-5.chem.lsu.edu remove ch100-5 to avoid spam trap

 

[Trevor Wilson]

"James Sweet" <jamessweet1@trashmail.net> wrote in message
news:_ji3k.662$Jj1.467@trndny02...

Trevor Wilson wrote:
"James Sweet" <jamessweet1@trashmail.net> wrote in message
news:bbd3k.5517$LN.3484@trndny03...
Trevor Wilson wrote:
"James Sweet" <jamessweet1@trashmail.net> wrote in message
news:Li43k.5498$LN.2938@trndny03...
Anyone who has ever owned a Volvo 240 wagon will know that there's one
really annoying design flaw in an otherwise nearly bulletproof car.
All the wiring for the rear wiper, power lock, defogger, center brake
light and license plate lights passes through the hinges so that it
gets bent 90 degrees each time the tailgate is opened resulting in a
need to replace the tailgate wiring harnesses about once every 5
years. I've seen some people wire around the hinges but that just
looks tacky to me. I'm curious if there's any modern super flexible
wire out there that can hold up to this repeated flexing? 18 AWG is
fine, none of them carry a particularly high current. There's room for
a bundle about the diameter of a pencil through each hinge. Ideas?
**Multi-Contact make a VERY tough, very flexible, 512 strand, silicon
sheathed wire which will last the distance. Farnell carry it. You may
need to buy quite a bit though.



Hmm, interesting, ok, I should specify though, anything I can get in the
US? Farnell may be willing to ship over here, but there's gotta be
something local.

**Here in Australia, we use this thing called 'Google'.

www.google.com

It is brilliant. You can find pretty much anything you want. Anyway, type
in 'farnell us' into the little box. From that you get a link to:

http://www.newark.com/cable-wire-accessories




Thanks smartass.

**You're welcome. Now, go find the wire. It is the best product for the job
you are attempting.


--
Trevor Wilson
www.rageaudio.com.au

 

[Arfa Daily]

"Sam Goldwasser" <sam@minus.seas.upenn.edu> wrote in message
news:6wod69for5.fsf@minus.seas.upenn.edu...

"Arfa Daily" <arfa.daily@ntlworld.com> writes:

If the one that's short is the series reccy for the mag's HT supply, be
aware that the mag itself may also be faulty, as that is sometimes the
cause
of the diode failing in the first place.

Has anyone ever come up with a good explanation as to how that happens?

--- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/

I don't know Sam. It's hard to see what kind of failure of a mag could
result in it pulling enough current to destroy the diode. Maybe it's a
flashover thing ? Although I understand the basic principles of the
magnetron and how it works as a power oscillator, I don't understand it in
enough detail to know what limits the current drawn, other than the magnetic
shunts on the HT tranny's core. I'm sure someone else on here will know ...

Arfa

 

[isw]

In article <484E3B9D.1C1D0469@hotmail.com>,
Eeyore <rabbitsfriendsandrelations@hotmail.com> wrote:

James Sweet wrote:

Yes I'm well aware of how to use Google, I've been using it since it
first appeared on the scene. I only asked because I thought someone
might happen to think "hey I know just the thing, I bought some
from...."

Yes they did and they ALL said SILICONE insulated wire.

Problem ?

Silicone is pretty durable, but I don't understand how it keeps the
copper from cracking due to fatigue...

Isaac

 

[Richard J Kinch]

Jeff Liebermann writes:

They *DONT* give the number to "just anyone".

"Except you".

So they're saying you *ARE* "just anyone". The one special just-anyone
that they give the number to.

Which is also a lie: I got the same email, so there's at least two of us
one-of-a-kind just-anyones.

And yes, my copy did come from eBay, not a phisher.

 

[Arfa Daily]

"Albert" <albert@netmation.com> wrote in message
news:c7b24625-111e-457b-b621-421c165a0740@h1g2000prh.googlegroups.com...

Have an older 23" CRT VX1120 monitor. I lowered the resolution on it
to 1280 x1024 and a few minutes later the screen went out and now it
is totally black. Could something of blown up since I lowered the
resolution? Or was it most likely just a coincedence that it failed
on me at that time?

Not really enough information about what's happening. It's a bit like saying
"I went to a different petrol station today, and now my car won't start"

Are there any lights ? Can you see the CRT heater glowing ? Are there any
ticking or whistling or 'pumping' noises coming from it ? Any "barummm"
noise from the degausing circuit when first powered from a full cold power
down ? Any 'rustle' of high voltage or feel any static on the back of your
hand from the tube face, when you power up ?

May just be coincidence, but when resolution is altered, so is the nature of
the stresses on some parts of the circuitry, and it's possible that it has
triggered a fault that was 'waiting to happen' so to speak ...

Arfa

 

[Arfa Daily]

"Albert" <albert@netmation.com> wrote in message
news:c7b24625-111e-457b-b621-421c165a0740@h1g2000prh.googlegroups.com...

Have an older 23" CRT VX1120 monitor. I lowered the resolution on it
to 1280 x1024 and a few minutes later the screen went out and now it
is totally black. Could something of blown up since I lowered the
resolution? Or was it most likely just a coincedence that it failed
on me at that time?

Not really enough information about what's happening. It's a bit like saying
"I went to a different petrol station today, and now my car won't start"

Are there any lights ? Can you see the CRT heater glowing ? Are there any
ticking or whistling or 'pumping' noises coming from it ? Any "barummm"
noise from the degausing circuit when first powered from a full cold power
down ? Any 'rustle' of high voltage or feel any static on the back of your
hand from the tube face, when you power up ?

May just be coincidence, but when resolution is altered, so is the nature of
the stresses on some parts of the circuitry, and it's possible that it has
triggered a fault that was 'waiting to happen' so to speak ...

Arfa

 

[Arfa Daily]

"James Sweet" <jamessweet1@trashmail.net> wrote in message
news:ePH3k.5229$8q2.2447@trnddc02...

I've been an active participant here for around a decade, and owe much of
what I know about repairing electronics from the helpful techs who have
hung out here donating their time to share tips and information with
others. Over that time, I've witnessed the steady and unfortunate decline
of the service industry as goods get cheaper, more complex, and less
repairable. I've also watched a steadily worsening signal to noise ratio
here as more and more of the real techs drop out and find myself answering
the same few questions over and over while by the time I get stuck on
something I'm working on, it seems it's usually a really tough one that
can't be easily solved through usenet posts. I know there's still a few of
you regulars who have always been helpful, keep it up and maybe a few more
items can be kept out of landfills or the inevitable demise of a few more
repair shops can be delayed, you guys know where to find me if you need to
bounce ideas around or just want to chat. In the meantime, I feel lately
that my increasingly scarce free time is better spent elsewhere so I'm
dropping out of here. Good luck.

Really wish you wouldn't do that James. Filter the crap, and stick around.
As you say, there's precious few enough experienced people around on here,
and every time one of us drops out, that's one less to answer the questions,
even if they are repetitive and sometimes tiresome, and a narrower pool of
expertise to be drawn upon ...

I have always valued your opinions and input to discussions, and will miss
them if they are not here any more. Meanwhile, all the diodes in my left leg
are hurting, and if you must go, I'll catch ya later in The Restaurant at
the End of the Universe d;~}

Arfa

 

[Arfa Daily]

"James Sweet" <jamessweet1@trashmail.net> wrote in message
news:ePH3k.5229$8q2.2447@trnddc02...

I've been an active participant here for around a decade, and owe much of
what I know about repairing electronics from the helpful techs who have
hung out here donating their time to share tips and information with
others. Over that time, I've witnessed the steady and unfortunate decline
of the service industry as goods get cheaper, more complex, and less
repairable. I've also watched a steadily worsening signal to noise ratio
here as more and more of the real techs drop out and find myself answering
the same few questions over and over while by the time I get stuck on
something I'm working on, it seems it's usually a really tough one that
can't be easily solved through usenet posts. I know there's still a few of
you regulars who have always been helpful, keep it up and maybe a few more
items can be kept out of landfills or the inevitable demise of a few more
repair shops can be delayed, you guys know where to find me if you need to
bounce ideas around or just want to chat. In the meantime, I feel lately
that my increasingly scarce free time is better spent elsewhere so I'm
dropping out of here. Good luck.

Really wish you wouldn't do that James. Filter the crap, and stick around.
As you say, there's precious few enough experienced people around on here,
and every time one of us drops out, that's one less to answer the questions,
even if they are repetitive and sometimes tiresome, and a narrower pool of
expertise to be drawn upon ...

I have always valued your opinions and input to discussions, and will miss
them if they are not here any more. Meanwhile, all the diodes in my left leg
are hurting, and if you must go, I'll catch ya later in The Restaurant at
the End of the Universe d;~}

Arfa

 

[N_Cook]

Michael Kennedy <Mikek400@remthis.comcast.net> wrote in message
news:nuednQ1wD9fVrdPVnZ2dnUVZ_qqgnZ2d@comcast.com...

"James Sweet" <jamessweet1@trashmail.net> wrote in message
news:_ji3k.662$Jj1.467@trndny02...

Trevor Wilson wrote:
"James Sweet" <jamessweet1@trashmail.net> wrote in message
news:bbd3k.5517$LN.3484@trndny03...
Trevor Wilson wrote:
"James Sweet" <jamessweet1@trashmail.net> wrote in message
news:Li43k.5498$LN.2938@trndny03...

People say google it when they don't know the answer to your question, but
they think it is easy to find on a search engine. I think people like this
participate on Usenet just to annoy the people with questions. I think if
you don't want to answer questions you shouldn't bother to participate on
Usenet.

I don't know where to find this wire and I'm sure that there are other
people don't either. It would be beneficial to the entire community to
have
this knowledge... ie. the purpose of Usenet from the beginning.

Mike

The golden mantra for usenet and other such systems should be:

Does my post or reply increase the sum of human knowledge?
Yes : fine
No : don't

Current posting , debateable on that point

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General electronic repairs, most things repaired, other than TVs and PCs
http://www.divdev.fsnet.co.uk/repairs.htm

Diverse Devices, Southampton, England