Toshiba TV29C90 problem; Image fades to black...

"Tim Phipps" <news@timphipps.co.invalid> wrote in message
news:D5t2k.71054$%B6.9395@newsfe13.ams2...
Meat Plow wrote:


Do you remember looking at the 4-63 volt, 3300uf caps in your 700D? I
just
replaced the banana jack on mine and those 4 caps looked like the tops
were puffed. I pulled the top off one and there is a convexed steel cap
over the actual can under the heat shrink that makes these look domed.
And
they appear also to run pretty warm discoloring the white glue used to
bond them to the pcb. The amp works fine otherwise and I've never had any
problems with it. It was formerly used to power A/V sub-woofers and had
been left on continuously for a couple years. Next trip to the
electronics
shop will probably yield a new set just for my piece of mind.

I was beginning to think my posts were not making it out there until I saw
your reply (Arfa was right about the Virgin Media news server being
troublesome!)
Click to expand...
Seems a bit better now Tim, although there still seems to be periods of time
when it is not accessible. It wasn't yesterday afternoon for a couple of
hours. I was beginning to think that something had screwed up on my machine,
but 'net access was ok, and the mail server was properly accessible. News
server access just suddenly returned ( I had a news post pending in the
outbox, and my machine will try to send it every 5 mins until it gets
success). I can't remember ever having had similar issues with the original
NTL server, which I had been on for many years since NTL were first cabling
up the country. The problems only seem to have been occuring since they
"migrated" I think was the word, to the 'new and better' Virgin Media binary
news server. Is this the same sort of issues that you have been experiencing
?

Arfa
 
"Eeyore" <rabbitsfriendsandrelations@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:484B62A1.B506D604@hotmail.com...
Tim Phipps wrote:

Eeyore wrote:
Meat Plow wrote:

Besides, I can buy a 2000 watt amp brand new also made in China for
around
$300 US.

I wouldn't expect it to work for very long.

Seems to me that you have a problem with anything made in China.

Not at all but the quality varies dramatically. I'm expecting to be going
to
Shanghai / Ningbo quite soon in fact.


You might also remember some time ago when I posted for help with a dead
Studiomaster 700D. The fault turned out to be a bad power transformer
which was not economical to replace even by substitution with off the
shelf parts.

Only because our Indian sub-contractor had bankrupted the company. Those
transformers were custom made by Toroid International which is a highly
respected
brand. I'm sorry you had that problem but it wasn't a design oversight
for sure.

Graham
Click to expand...
Ah ... Studiomaster. I will remember that Graham, when I next get one in
that's giving me some grief ...

d;~}

Arfa
 
Nobody has mentioned that you can tack-solder the lead, without twisting the
wire around the lead.
 
It's been some years since I bought from J&R. I was on a first-name basis
with my salesman, and have his home phone.

Perhaps things have changed, but I never had any reason to feel J&R was
taking advantage of me.

I urge all the shoplifters to go there and steal what you can.
Thee steal from their customers so it would be karmic justic
Click to expand...
 
I dunno know about the fridge thing but seems my devices that run on
batteries the batteries don't hold up well in the cold weather...always
carry cameras recorders in the jeep year round....just my thought


"hr(bob) hofmann@att.net" <hrhofmann@att.net> wrote in message
news:fb639609-1478-4005-b284-7c2e15c123cf@s50g2000hsb.googlegroups.com...
On Jun 7, 2:12 pm, daviddschool <daviddsch...@gmail.com> wrote:
I have about 40 C2016 batteries kicking around. I want to store them,
but someone told me if they are touching each other in a bag they
might lose the charge...what is the best method (besides selling them
on Ebay to get rid of them!)
Click to expand...
They will short out if there is a metallic path from one end of a
battery to the other, which could be thru 6 other batteries if they
happened to be arranged in such a manner that there is continuity.
Put some masking tape over one of the two contacts and put them all in
the refrigerator as the previous poster suggested.
 
It is not generally considered a good idea to store batteries in a
refrigerator, unless they are sealed in moisture-tight wrapping. The low
relative humidity tends to cause them to dry out otherwise.
 
"William Sommerwerck" <grizzledgeezer@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:2eGdnUPXhe21q9HVnZ2dnUVZ_vzinZ2d@comcast.com...
It is not generally considered a good idea to store batteries in a
refrigerator, unless they are sealed in moisture-tight wrapping. The low
relative humidity tends to cause them to dry out otherwise.
Click to expand...
Any reliable sources for this?
 
"Charles" <charlesschuler@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:5f6dnWZN_8Ocz9HVnZ2dnUVZ_qLinZ2d@comcast.com...
"William Sommerwerck" <grizzledgeezer@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:2eGdnUPXhe21q9HVnZ2dnUVZ_vzinZ2d@comcast.com...

It is not generally considered a good idea to store batteries in a
refrigerator, unless they are sealed in moisture-tight wrapping. The low
relative humidity tends to cause them to dry out otherwise.

Any reliable sources for this?
Click to expand...
"I read it somewhere." It's almost common sense.
 
"Jonathan Grobe" <grobe@netins.net> wrote in message
news:slrng4od2l.5un.grobe@worf.netins.net...
On 2008-06-08, Bishoop <none@nowhere.none> wrote:
I have an Advent TV that has the RF input connector broken off. I
removed
the back to see what I could do to make repairs.

The RF connector is an integral part some "module" that is soldered to a
PC
board.

Anyone have any ideas on where to find board level components so I can
make
the repair myself. I'm just not willing to put out 100 bux for the whole
circuit board.

I think you would get a better response in a group like
sci.electronics.repair

--
Jonathan Grobe Books
Browse our inventory of thousands of used books at:
http://www.grobebooks.com
Click to expand...
Thanks for the tip.

Took apart the module with the missing connector and I think I have almost
completed a repair. I'll be powering it up shortly.
 
"lurk" <me@sbcglobal.net> wrote in
news:5lU2k.1996$L_.1887@flpi150.ffdc.sbc.com:

I dunno know about the fridge thing but seems my devices that run on
batteries the batteries don't hold up well in the cold weather...always
carry cameras recorders in the jeep year round....just my thought


"hr(bob) hofmann@att.net" <hrhofmann@att.net> wrote in message
news:fb639609-1478-4005-b284-7c2e15c123cf@s50g2000hsb.googlegroups.com...
On Jun 7, 2:12 pm, daviddschool <daviddsch...@gmail.com> wrote:
I have about 40 C2016 batteries kicking around. I want to store them,
but someone told me if they are touching each other in a bag they
might lose the charge...what is the best method (besides selling them
on Ebay to get rid of them!)

They will short out if there is a metallic path from one end of a
battery to the other, which could be thru 6 other batteries if they
happened to be arranged in such a manner that there is continuity.
Put some masking tape over one of the two contacts and put them all in
the refrigerator as the previous poster suggested.
Click to expand...
they are lithium cells and don't need refrigeration for a long shelf life.

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net
 
"Tony Hwang" <dragon40@shaw.ca> wrote in message
news:xaZ2k.17408$gc5.13309@pd7urf2no...
Jonathan Grobe wrote:

On 2008-06-08, Bishoop <none@nowhere.none> wrote:

I have an Advent TV that has the RF input connector broken off. I
removed the back to see what I could do to make repairs.

The RF connector is an integral part some "module" that is soldered to a
PC board.

Anyone have any ideas on where to find board level components so I can
make the repair myself. I'm just not willing to put out 100 bux for the
whole circuit board.


I think you would get a better response in a group like
sci.electronics.repair

Hi,
If I were you. I'd solder a piece of coax onto the board, epoxy the
joints, then sedure the coax with tie clamp, then attach a female coax
connector on to it. It's common problem, PCB mounted coax connector
breaking off. You may need to repair the dmamaged circuit trace on the
board first.
Good luck,
Tony, VE6CGX
Click to expand...
My repair is pretty much what you suggested. Powered it up and all is well.
 
The Ebay/Paypal combo is invested with too much power. I bought was two
eight-foot lengths of aluminum channel. Instead, I received four
four-foot lengths. EPal, in their wisdom declared that the purchase was
substantially as advertised. That would be the equivalent, for my
purposes, to ordering a two inch laser rod and getting two one-inch
rods, or a two-carat diamond and getting two one-carat diamonds.

As far as I can tell, there is no practical avenue of appeal.
Fortunately not much money was involved. As a consequence I have bought
little off of Ebay since.

Bill
 
eBay writes:

We don't give our number to just anyone (except you)
Click to expand...
So, eBay is calling you "just anyone", right? What marketing clown came up
with that prose?
 
It can be anything from a cold solder connection, a bad ribbon cable, or
a circuit board that would have to be changed. All these types of faults
are time consuming to work out. Because there is no component level
support for these TV sets, at the factory service level, if a board is
identified to be defective the complete board must be changed.

As for the cost, labour is not cheap, and the parts will be expensive if
required. I can tell you this up front before you bring the set in for
an estimate.

From what I see, the average cost servicing a Plasma or LCD large
screen TV can run in the area of about $150 to $250 for something very
simple. Then the service cost can go much higher. In theory there is no
ceiling on the possible cost of servicing one of these sets. At a
certain point it pays to simply buy a new set.

--

JANA
_____


"hobs" <hoby1@ptd.net> wrote in message
news:d01f5590-70cd-4ed3-909e-f8fd87b968a5@79g2000hsk.googlegroups.com...
I havea mitsu 55 inch hd tv for about 6 moths I have been getting
green bars on the l and r side of the screen . I would shut the tv off
and then turn it back on and it was ok. Then about 2 months ago the
problem went away. Now , a week ago the problem came back and will not
go away no matter what. I a little afraid of calling a repair man only
to find out it would cost big money to fix. The tv is in mint cond and
and I woulds like to keep it . What do you guy suggest and how much
would you put in a 6 year old tv . New big screen are under 2k.
Any help would be appreciated , Hobbs
 
James Sweet <jamessweet1@trashmail.net> wrote in message
news:Li43k.5498$LN.2938@trndny03...
Anyone who has ever owned a Volvo 240 wagon will know that there's one
really annoying design flaw in an otherwise nearly bulletproof car. All
the wiring for the rear wiper, power lock, defogger, center brake light
and license plate lights passes through the hinges so that it gets bent
90 degrees each time the tailgate is opened resulting in a need to
replace the tailgate wiring harnesses about once every 5 years. I've
seen some people wire around the hinges but that just looks tacky to me.
I'm curious if there's any modern super flexible wire out there that can
hold up to this repeated flexing? 18 AWG is fine, none of them carry a
particularly high current. There's room for a bundle about the diameter
of a pencil through each hinge. Ideas?
Click to expand...

Twist up, in a drill, 6 strands or so of long lengths of 30-35AWG/35-40SWG
or so gauge and cut into 3. Plait up those 3 lengths and then cut in 3 and
plait together the 3 lengths of that intermediate. Keeping the "flat" side
in the same sense which will be the sense through which the hinge action
takes place.

--
General electronic repairs, most things repaired, other than TVs and PCs
http://www.divdev.fsnet.co.uk/repairs.htm

Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
 
James Sweet <jamessweet1@trashmail.net> wrote in message
news:Li43k.5498$LN.2938@trndny03...
Anyone who has ever owned a Volvo 240 wagon will know that there's one
really annoying design flaw in an otherwise nearly bulletproof car. All
the wiring for the rear wiper, power lock, defogger, center brake light
and license plate lights passes through the hinges so that it gets bent
90 degrees each time the tailgate is opened resulting in a need to
replace the tailgate wiring harnesses about once every 5 years. I've
seen some people wire around the hinges but that just looks tacky to me.
I'm curious if there's any modern super flexible wire out there that can
hold up to this repeated flexing? 18 AWG is fine, none of them carry a
particularly high current. There's room for a bundle about the diameter
of a pencil through each hinge. Ideas?
Click to expand...

Twist up, in a drill, 6 strands or so of long lengths of 30-35AWG/35-40SWG
or so gauge and cut into 3. Plait up those 3 lengths and then cut in 3 and
plait together the 3 lengths of that intermediate. Keeping the "flat" side
in the same sense which will be the sense through which the hinge action
takes place.

--
General electronic repairs, most things repaired, other than TVs and PCs
http://www.divdev.fsnet.co.uk/repairs.htm

Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
 
"James Sweet" <jamessweet1@trashmail.net> wrote in message
news:Li43k.5498$LN.2938@trndny03...
Anyone who has ever owned a Volvo 240 wagon will know that there's one
really annoying design flaw in an otherwise nearly bulletproof car. All
the wiring for the rear wiper, power lock, defogger, center brake light
and license plate lights passes through the hinges so that it gets bent 90
degrees each time the tailgate is opened resulting in a need to replace
the tailgate wiring harnesses about once every 5 years. I've seen some
people wire around the hinges but that just looks tacky to me. I'm curious
if there's any modern super flexible wire out there that can hold up to
this repeated flexing? 18 AWG is fine, none of them carry a particularly
high current. There's room for a bundle about the diameter of a pencil
through each hinge. Ideas?
Click to expand...
**Multi-Contact make a VERY tough, very flexible, 512 strand, silicon
sheathed wire which will last the distance. Farnell carry it. You may need
to buy quite a bit though.


--
Trevor Wilson
www.rageaudio.com.au
 
"James Sweet" <jamessweet1@trashmail.net> wrote in message
news:Li43k.5498$LN.2938@trndny03...
Anyone who has ever owned a Volvo 240 wagon will know that there's one
really annoying design flaw in an otherwise nearly bulletproof car. All
the wiring for the rear wiper, power lock, defogger, center brake light
and license plate lights passes through the hinges so that it gets bent 90
degrees each time the tailgate is opened resulting in a need to replace
the tailgate wiring harnesses about once every 5 years. I've seen some
people wire around the hinges but that just looks tacky to me. I'm curious
if there's any modern super flexible wire out there that can hold up to
this repeated flexing? 18 AWG is fine, none of them carry a particularly
high current. There's room for a bundle about the diameter of a pencil
through each hinge. Ideas?
Click to expand...
**Multi-Contact make a VERY tough, very flexible, 512 strand, silicon
sheathed wire which will last the distance. Farnell carry it. You may need
to buy quite a bit though.


--
Trevor Wilson
www.rageaudio.com.au
 
"Eeyore" <rabbitsfriendsandrelations@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:484BF914.67048E63@hotmail.com...
Arfa Daily wrote:

"Eeyore" wrote
Tim Phipps wrote:
Eeyore wrote:
Meat Plow wrote:

Besides, I can buy a 2000 watt amp brand new also made in China for
around $300 US.

I wouldn't expect it to work for very long.

Seems to me that you have a problem with anything made in China.

Not at all but the quality varies dramatically. I'm expecting to be
going
to Shanghai / Ningbo quite soon in fact.

You might also remember some time ago when I posted for help with a
dead
Studiomaster 700D. The fault turned out to be a bad power transformer
which was not economical to replace even by substitution with off the
shelf parts.

Only because our Indian sub-contractor had bankrupted the company.
Those
transformers were custom made by Toroid International which is a highly
respected
brand. I'm sorry you had that problem but it wasn't a design oversight
for sure.

Ah ... Studiomaster. I will remember that Graham, when I next get one in
that's giving me some grief ...

d;~}

Stop for a second to think how many tens of thousands were made and how
few you
see.

I just bought a 700D on ebay btw for a club install that's going 3 way
active
(for the HF drivers). You can see I do have confidence in my own products.

And you can always email me for repair tips.

Graham
Click to expand...
Yes, I don't see that many. But always useful to have a 'contact' within a
company ...

Arfa
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Welcome to EDABoard.com

Sponsor

Back
Top