Toshiba TV29C90 problem; Image fades to black...

This is true, however it was bought for my kids bedroom christmas time last
year for $199? or something like that... But I would feel bad just tossing
it out, the screen clarity wise is fine, it just looks sick :) all green.
It could be anything.

Any guess at what the problem will be is just that: a guess. The only way to,
at the very least, get a good steer as to what's going on with your TV is to
have an experienced repair professional examine it and give you a repair
estimate.

But, if the problem is something major, like a shorted picture tube, you're
better off replacing the TV. As it has been said repeatedly here, the set was
made to be disposable when something goes wrong.
The problem with these sets is a combination of a cheap design and cheap parts.
This is how you get a low price tag, but also why these things have
non-existent service support and an abyssmal reliability record.

When you think about the long term, you may spend more money when buying an
Apex which could break down for apparently no reason at all and require a
replacement in the near future.

OTOH, compare this to a TV from a reputable brand that is usually made right to
begin with and would likely break down quite a few years more than the Apex if
acts of God doesn't get it first. Plus, the set from a good brand will likely
have service support so a repair would be possible, allowing you to use your
investment for a longer time.

Simply put, the more years you can get out of your TV, the more you will have
gotten for your money. Usually the TVs that tend to last the most years are
those from respected Japanese brands. - Reinhart
 
www.digikey.com has almost any part you could need. findin it is the
hard part. I use them for many of my projects.
 
I have pulled the laptop apart however nothing looks or smells burnt.

James: Is the kind of fault you're talking about an easy fix for an
electronics repair tradesperson? I fear a new power supply from
Toshiba will cost more than I'm prepared to spend on a 3yr old laptop.
A bit of a shame since it's still perfect for my needs, but what can
you do!

Again, thanks to all for your time and help :)

--Pete.

Well in theory yes, though we're talking about a laptop here and sometimes
just getting to the board in question can be a chore and then you're dealing
with tiny surface mount components. I'd say this particular problem should
be repairable though.
 
On 7 Dec 2004 11:21:50 -0800, crossride@gmail.com wrote:

OK, here are the results of off-circuit diode function measurements
for the known good one.
done with a cheapo Mastech M-830B tester

component leads 1 and 2 on the double lead side, 1 left and 2 right, 3
on the other, single lead side. (Philips style of marking)

pos-neg
1-2 -> OL
1-3 -> 200
2-3 -> 200
neg-pos
1-2 -> OL
1-3 -> OL
2-3 -> OL

any ideas based on this?
Congratulations. You've ot a WW4. ie CMPZDA2V7, dual 2V7 zener.

http://www.centralsemi.com/pdf/CMPZDA3V6-3V.PDF

RL
 
They can occur randomly for many reasons ( solar activity), failure at
a switching station, etc. Power surges are most likely to occur during
an electrical storm. I've repaired several TV's due to lightening
damage.
 
Okay,

Can anyone direct me to any visuals on the internet that would help me
in discovering what each of these parts look like, as and/or their
location?(I want to at least give this a shot, before I have to throw
the TV out).

Thanks.

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.
********************************************************************************
Searcher7@mail.con2.com wrote in message news:<1101975797.927183.128580@c13g2000cwb.googlegroups.com>...
1) SBX audio MTS module
2) IF can
3) degaussing resistor
4) If module

I wouldn't know the location or more importantly what these components
look like. So unless I can find visual aids along with instructions the
TV is garbage. Especially Sony TV(KV-27TS20) is an older set.

I opened it up last night and after seeing the metal encasement around
the back of the picture tube, closed it back up. :)

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.
*****************************************************************************************
Darren Harris wrote:
"David" <dkuhajda@locl.net.spam> wrote in message
news:<3fd7e935@news.greennet.net>...
read www.repairfaq.org
Has a section on the Sony internal grounds and inside the if module
coil
connections. The degauss thermister will be easy to find.
If that set also has the infamous SBX1637 mts module, you might as
well
replace it now rather than later if it is still the one that came
with the
set. It is on the same pcb as the if module.

One BIG WARNING: You will be working VERY close to lots of small
surface
mount components. Use the correct type of temperature controlled
soldering
station with a good smaller sized tip to do these repairs. One
slip of an
iron that is too hot can do lots of damage that will require a real
technician with all the service information available some time to
repair.

Thanks.

Unfortunately, I don't have a temperature controlled soldering
stateion, so I'll have to wing it. Since the set is not worth taking
it to a TV repair shop, the only other alternative is the garbage, so
I'll see what I can do.

Thanks again.

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.
 
On Wed, 8 Dec 2004 17:37:38 +0000 (UTC), "Peter"
<normalindex@sticker.com.au> strung together this:

Interesting, never thought that the u bend could hev an effect on
adultery, Amazing what you learn here.

Wat ????

You replied to the slightly off at a tangent thread that I started,
rather than the OP. Reply to the question you're answering, and remove
signatures.
--

SJW
A.C.S. Ltd
Please reply to group or use 'usenet' in email subject
 
This is caused by the inlet water temp being too hot the steam vapour
locks
the u bend in the soap dispensor hose a known problem

Interesting, never thought that the u bend could hev an effect on
adultery, Amazing what you learn here.
--

SJW
A.C.S. Ltd
Please reply to group or use 'usenet' in email subject
Wat ????

Peter
 
In <KkMtd.5014$Ya4.1098@edtnps84> "NSM" <nowrite@to.me> writes:

Interesting! BTW, it's a good idea to keep the gate clean as this is the
major source of film scratches.
I don't know one whit about the projector (Although it sounds like
the OP solved the problem righteously. Cheers!), but I'd like to
chime in about film. It's more fragile than you might think, and
scratches pretty easily. Handle by the edges, and all that good
stuff, and keep it away from dust and dirt. Don't leave spools
just lying around in the open.

--
Tim Mullen
------------------------------------------------------------------
Am I in your basement? Looking for antique televisions, fans, etc.
------ finger this account or call anytime: (212)-463-0552 -------
 
In article <BDDC5C44.8388%elindago@earthlink.net>, indago <elindago@earthlink.net> wrote:
041206 1008 - indago posted:

snippies
The new foam filled ear cushions are much
more comfortable than the old worn out "liquid filled" ones.

Where did you find new ear cushions?
 
This guy probably bought up all the existing old Polavision lenses from the
early 80's. My dad and I actually built one of these, and it worked, although
we had to do considerable work to the set to fix the keystone effect, Also, the
picture was very dark, requiring an almost totally dark room to be able to see
anything, and the individual phosphor dots were clearly visible on the image...
 
"BWL" <btvfxer@aol.com> wrote in message
news:20041208225712.06298.00001473@mb-m18.aol.com...
| This guy probably bought up all the existing old Polavision lenses from
the
| early 80's. My dad and I actually built one of these, and it worked,
although
| we had to do considerable work to the set to fix the keystone effect,
Also, the
| picture was very dark, requiring an almost totally dark room to be able to
see
| anything, and the individual phosphor dots were clearly visible on the
image...

Don't you have to reverse the yoke connections also? I like the picture with
the bright wall lights on - not likely!

N
 
<h_markston@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:1102566518.512440.271100@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com...

....
| Here's the problem. The up and down volume controls, as well as
| the power switch on my TV remote instantly shuts the air purifier
| down and resets its programmable timing functions to 12:00 AM.
| Naturally I ran out and purchased a different remote. A foolish
| thing to do, but if there was chance the problem would go away
| I was willing to spend the extra bucks. Unfortunately, it didn't
| help.
....

Tape over the air purifier remote sensor with black electrical tape. Peel it
off when you need to reprogram it.

N
 
<h_markston@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:1102566518.512440.271100@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com...
I have an extensive backgroung in building and repairing all
sorts of electronic devices. Like millions of others I spend
more time in front of my Desktop than actually breadboarding
circuits, but I still remember most of what I've learned over
the years.

I recently purchased a very high quaility air purifier. I'm
sure many of you have seen these large drum style air purifiers
that use HEPA filters. That's what I've got. I resisted buying
one for years but my allergies have become increasing worse as
I've grown older, so I really had no choice.

Here's the problem. The up and down volume controls, as well as
the power switch on my TV remote instantly shuts the air purifier
down and resets its programmable timing functions to 12:00 AM.
Naturally I ran out and purchased a different remote. A foolish
thing to do, but if there was chance the problem would go away
I was willing to spend the extra bucks. Unfortunately, it didn't
help.

I tried shielding the IR detector in the air purifier display
with a dark red lens. The same kind you see in convertor boxes,
etc. I put up some carboard around the display to see if it
might deflect the IR pulses away from the detector. I discovered
that the lens would practically have to be opaque before it would
stop reacting to the TV remote. I kept increasing the size of
the cardboard deflectors. The cardboard finally did block the
bouncing signals from TV remote. It also completely stopped the
IR pulses from the air purifier's own remote!

Many years ago a defunct electronics hobby magazine published an
article I wrote about a simple on-off IR controller. Right after
the detector module I included a simple integrator consisting
of a resistor and capacitor. This created a short time lag which
blocked the transmission of spurious signals. If this new air
purifier didn't have 5 year warranty I would open the darn thing
up and insert an integrator with a nice long delay.

Each press of a switch on the TV remote is very short. The pulse
would have no effect on the air purifier's detector if the
integrators time interval were two or three times longer than a
typical press on one of those membrane switches.

I tried moving the purifier around the room to no avail. Nothing
seems to help. I'm hoping someone with more expertise than myself
might come up with a suggestion.

Holophote
Sounds like you might be out of luck as far as getting the remotes to
cooperate, though you should contact the purifier company and let them know
this is happening because you can't be the only one with a remote that uses
those same codes.

There's a few fixes I can think of, though none of them perfect. One is to
install a switch to disable the IR reciever in the purifier when the TV is
in use, another is to replace the IR LED and reciever with some inexpensive
433MHz RF reciever and transmitter, and another would be to put a
microcontroller between the IR reciever module and the rest of the circuitry
in the air purifier and write some firmware to reciever commands from a
universal remote that doesn't interfere with your TV and output something
compatible with the original.
 
"NSM" <nowrite@to.me> wrote in message news:rJQtd.6601$Ya4.2719@edtnps84...
"BWL" <btvfxer@aol.com> wrote in message
news:20041208225712.06298.00001473@mb-m18.aol.com...
| This guy probably bought up all the existing old Polavision lenses from
the
| early 80's. My dad and I actually built one of these, and it worked,
although
| we had to do considerable work to the set to fix the keystone effect,
Also, the
| picture was very dark, requiring an almost totally dark room to be able
to
see
| anything, and the individual phosphor dots were clearly visible on the
image...

Don't you have to reverse the yoke connections also? I like the picture
with
the bright wall lights on - not likely!

N
Depends on whether you want front or rear projection, either way it's a
silly idea, there's much more modern ways to hack together mediocre
projection TV's these days, as well as a plentiful supply of old real
projection TV's, I've gotten 4 or 5 of them for free over the last few
years, and most required a lot less work to fix up than building something
from scratch would take.
 
"Reed Park" <reedpark@nbnet.nb.ca> wrote in message
news:41B7608B.7040502@nbnet.nb.ca...
Hi Group

I am working on a BELAR, AMM-2A modulation monitor. Trouble is, someone
before me was working on it and removed a 14 pin DIP chip. I suspect it
is the dual
voltage regulator, but no where can I find what type it should have.
Anyone have
any idea what it should have ? Source for a schematic ? Or any other
tech info ?

Regards
Reed

--
http://www.belar.com/ have you tried?
 
OK. I give up. Exactly why does an air purifier require a remote
control? :)

--- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ Mirror: http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/
Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/REPAIR/
+Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ: http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/sam/lasersam.htm
| Mirror Sites: http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/REPAIR/F_mirror.html

Note: These links are hopefully temporary until we can sort out the excessive
traffic on Repairfaq.org.

Important: Anything sent to the email address in the message header is ignored.
To contact me, please use the Feedback Form in the FAQs.
 
"Sam Goldwasser" <sam@saul.cis.upenn.edu> wrote in message
news:6wfz2fh9vz.fsf@saul.cis.upenn.edu...
| OK. I give up. Exactly why does an air purifier require a remote
| control? :)

Next year: Every remote control will come with a remote control!

N
 
Fred Mau <fred-dot-mau@comcast.net> wrote:
: Anybody out there parting out an Sony VPH-1031 CRT Projector ? I need a set
: of lenses. Contact me here or offline.

: Or, recomendations of a good parts supplier would be appreciated.

: I just picked up a VPH1031 for next to nothing, surplus from the local
: school board. So far, it appears that the ONLY thing wrong with it is that
: somebody swiped the front glass elements from each of the three lenses. The
: CRTs themselves seem to be nice and strong and sharp.

: Thanks.


Give www.avsforum.com a try. Post your question in the crt projector
forum, a lot of helpful people there.
 

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