Toshiba TV29C90 problem; Image fades to black...

[Sunny]

Lurch wrote:

On 5 Dec 2004 18:46:01 -0800, simon3000@yahoo.com (simon3000) strung
together this:


(but i didn't realise it was a fault until my
girlfriend told me so because I'd never had a washing machine before).


My wife keep moaning about this problem and keeps nagging for me to
get a plumber -


Make sure that they're not both in the room at the same time. ;-)

Or lock the girlfriend, wife, and plumber in the laundry room while you
go to the pub

Thanks for any info


Try turning the tap down a bit to reduce pressure in the inlet pipe.

 

[Lurch]

On Sun, 05 Dec 2004 23:14:31 -0500, Sunny <sunny@nospam.net> strung
together this:

Or lock the girlfriend, wife, and plumber in the laundry room while you
go to the pub

Probably a better solution!

--

SJW
A.C.S. Ltd
Please reply to group or use 'usenet' in email subject

 

[BWL]

Most likely you've either got a shorted(shorting) blue CRT or intermittant 200v
supply to that tube. First problem is expensive to fix (replace the tube), est
$350 - 500, second is much less to fix, probably under $200, including service
call.

 

[Andrew Gabriel]

In article <c0m7r0tde9sdp8sitkmtod3pric7mn32bj@4ax.com>,
Lurch <theoriginallurch@tiscali.co.uk> writes:

Try turning the tap down a bit to reduce pressure in the inlet pipe.

Also, check machine is level. I had this on a Hotpoint where the floor
sloped rather badly down away from the wall. I made up a piece of wood
to go under the front wheels to make the machine level, and that stopped
the leak.

--
Andrew Gabriel

 

[Mark D. Zacharias]

I'm pretty sure it was the KSS-210. A KSS-212 or KSS-150 would also work.

Mark Z.


<tuffhand@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:myQsd.617944$mD.575396@attbi_s02...

I checked Grandata and they don't list an assembly for the 705. Most of the
Yamaha's seem to use the KSS210A, do you know if the 705 also uses it?

Thank you

 

[Mark D. Zacharias]

P.S.

Don't forget - if you replace the pickup, there is that little solder "blob"
on the pickup pc board which must be unsoldered in order for the new pickup
to function.

Mark Z.


"Mark D. Zacharias" <mzacharias@yis.us> wrote in message
news:31itfgF3bfrrhU1@individual.net...

I'm pretty sure it was the KSS-210. A KSS-212 or KSS-150 would also work.

Mark Z.

 

[Leonard Caillouet]

"BWL" <btvfxer@aol.com> wrote in message
news:20041206011902.07716.00001516@mb-m01.aol.com...

Most likely you've either got a shorted(shorting) blue CRT or intermittant
200v
supply to that tube. First problem is expensive to fix (replace the tube),
est
$350 - 500, second is much less to fix, probably under $200, including
service
call.

It could also be a failing video amp on the blue CRT, which can also damage
the crt. Best to call a Sony ASC who has the service bulletin on the
problem.

Leonard

 

[Graham]

Or lock the girlfriend, wife, and plumber in the laundry room while you
go to the pub

Damn, you beat me to it!

--
Graham.



%Profound_observation%

 

[Peter]

"Lurch" <theoriginallurch@tiscali.co.uk> wrote in message
news:m4p7r0dqin119o87f2bql1g15kdo33v5ce@4ax.com...

On Sun, 05 Dec 2004 23:14:31 -0500, Sunny <sunny@nospam.net> strung
together this:

Or lock the girlfriend, wife, and plumber in the laundry room while you
go to the pub

Probably a better solution!
--

This is caused by the inlet water temp being too hot the steam vapour locks
the u bend in the soap dispensor hose a known problem

Peter

 

[CapStick]

Just close the powder draw before turning on...........


---
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Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
Version: 6.0.781 / Virus Database: 527 - Release Date: 21/10/2004

 

[Lurch]

On Mon, 6 Dec 2004 19:51:24 +0000 (UTC), "Peter"
<normalindex@sticker.com.au> strung together this:

This is caused by the inlet water temp being too hot the steam vapour locks
the u bend in the soap dispensor hose a known problem

Interesting, never thought that the u bend could hev an effect on

adultery, Amazing what you learn here.
--

SJW
A.C.S. Ltd
Please reply to group or use 'usenet' in email subject

 

[James Sweet]

"Peter Allen" <peterallen44@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:1102389616.497238.147710@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com...

Hi Harr, Thanks for your reply

I didn't do that, however what I did do was purchase a new power brick
and tried powering up with that, to no avail.

I'm guessing it must be something inside the laptop.

Can you give me any ideas as to what to look for?

I'm really puzzled as to what has caused this, as there were other
devices plugged into the same power strip which are fine, and the brick
itself was not damaged.
Any advice would be awesome, thanks again

--Pete

Things do fail sometimes, you could look in the laptop, though unless you
have a multimeter, soldering equipment, and the skills to use them to
diagnose the charging circuit and power supply, you're probably out of luck.

 

[AC]

The problem is, that the throw-away mentality, and pricing structure of
replacements means that repair of these kind of appliances is limited to the
scope of hobbyists such as yourself. Why would they go to the trouble of
supplying a service for a vast minority of users, who they can't make any
more money from?

"Fred" <testing@testing1212mouse.com> wrote in message
news:_pLld.3970$N_5.1750@trnddc03...

LOL! I know I'm probably asking the same thing over and over, but I have
gotten much good info by posting. Although I'd still like to find some
kind
of service documentation, schematics, etc., that choice is probably not
going to happen. But that doesn't stop me from trying. If I can
actually
troubleshoot to the component, there are boxes full of C700's and others
in
that same series out there that could be fixed and save the user $150. I
plan to create a site and post the how-to-fix-it info I get -- if I ever
get
anything usable.

Nothing irks me more than these big companies selling expensive items and
then not making service documentation available to the purchaser. Smacks
of
monopoly to me.

And, no, I'm not running for office. B^)

Fred

"Harvey" <harvey@not.ntlworld.com> wrote in message
news:qhLld.106$2O5.83@newsfe5-win.ntli.net...

"Fred" <testing@testing1212mouse.com> wrote in message
news:LXKld.4359$GV5.3522@trnddc04...
IT'S NOT THE BATTERIES!!! IT'S NOT THE BATTERIES!!!
IT'S NOT THE BATTERIES!!! IT'S NOT THE BATTERIES!!!

Any other suggestions would be appreciated.


How about a faulty camera then?

 

ROFL @ CEMOS!!! Sorry, I just got a good laugh out of that.

But seriously, your problem has nothing to do with your AC adaptor, or
your hard drive, or your _CMOS_ battery. Sounds like you blew a
component onboard inside the laptop. Most likely a capacitor or
transistor. I've heard even the smallest caps and transistors make
sounds similar to a bird, as you described, after being blown. Get
yourself a good multimeter and the schematics for the laptop and get
busy. Actually, you might be able to figure out what blew visually,
look for anything that was burnt. It is most likely more trouble than
it's worth to fix though. Good luck.

_________________
Beeeeeyotch!

Get a free 2.8GHz laptop
http://www.pctech4free.com/default.aspx?ref=5296

 

[john]

Sidney Have you tried just buying from them online
I have never had a problem by doing this.
Never have purchased from them over the Phone
just to much hasell.
The only problems I have with them are when I get on
the phone tracing a Back Order with them.
Been buying from them for 8 years ...


kip

 

[N Cook]

E & I laminations came apart easily as waxed in not varnish

Wire is about 3 thou diameter so assuming 44SWG so 0.093 lb and 2,985
ohms per 1000 yards and averaged coil
circumferences then the outer bunch is about 1250 turns by
resistance or 1550 turns by weight so about 9,000 turns on the HV section.
So i will have to dig out and maintain my old Eta Tool company , Leicester,
coil winder as the reversing clutch is jumping and the differential gearing
jokey tyre is perished. Must find out how old this lump is.
Douglas coil winders always looked more elegant.

 

[john]

Have you tried unplugging it for 10 secs ?
Try that and what it does.

kip

 

[Art]

Hookup up the Chipper Checker and check error codes, may just need eprom
refreshed.
"john" <va3mmTAKEOUTTHIS@niagara.com> wrote in message
news:newscache$xphd8i$thg$1@newsfeed.niagara.com...

Have you tried unplugging it for 10 secs ?
Try that and what it does.

kip

 

[sofie]

Jim:
Real common problem with this chassis, a "confused" micro.....
unplug it from the AC power for about a half hour and then plug it in and
power it up..... the audio will probably be OK.
--
Best Regards,
Daniel Sofie
Electronics Supply & Repair
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -



"Jim Taylor" <jim@videoterm.com> wrote in message
news:cp59ng$1op4$1@newsfeed.norlight.net...

I have an RCA (Thompson) Model: F32645; Chassis: CTC203CH3 that lost
audio, both channels.

The only perceptable audio is a slight clicking when changing volume, etc.

Any ideas?

Thanks,

Jim

jim@videoterm.com

 

[Fred]

In my experience over the past 5 years or so, Black & Decker haven't made a
decent electric tool/appliance in years. I have bought one of their small
drills, then returned it when the motor seized up after 2 months. The
replacement worked for a year, then the motor developed an open circuit.
Same for a small jig saw -- the blade moved up and down at about a 5-degree
angle off vertical. The company must have been taken over by some Wall
Street money-vacuum group because theire stuff used to be quite good, but
now I wouldn't touch any of their stuff.

"Franc Zabkar" <fzabkar@optussnet.com.au> wrote in message
news:dni1r01tvmb01ffq2g2lal50hd55qip1at@4ax.com...

On Fri, 03 Dec 2004 15:53:24 GMT,
transistorPLEASE@REMOVEkc.rrTHISTOREPLY.com ((0) -^- (0)) put finger
to keyboard and composed:

Posting this for the benefit of others ( Google Groups search etc.)

We purchased a Black and Decker TRO-360 Toaster Oven about 4 months
ago and recently the toast switch failed. The switch does not stay
down. According to the reviews at Amazon this is a common problem.
Many people in the reveiw section for this item are complaining of the
same problem. I decided to try and repair the oven as I have an
under counter bracket and heat shield for it which is very handy.

The switch is held down by an electromagnet that is driven by a small
timer board inside the oven. The timer board converts the setting of
the toast setting pot to a digital value and then uses a 'count-down'
type digital timer to control the toasting time. The part that
failed on the timer board in ours was a 6.2V Zener Diode part number
1N4735A that provides power to the CD4060 CMOS counter chip used as a
timer. The zener failed open and was only providing only about 1V to
the circut instead of the 6.2V required.

IME, this is a common problem with toasters. However, I would have
expected the zener to fail in the SC condition. If it were open,
surely the IC supply voltage would be a lot higher than 6.2V??? Of
course I'm assuming that this zener is connected between Vdd and
Ground.


- Franc Zabkar
--
Please remove one 's' from my address when replying by email.