Toshiba TV29C90 problem; Image fades to black...

This is exactly what I had, since you mention tapping makes it go away
you might have a dry/cold solder joint on one of the vertical IC pins.
in My set it was an LA7838 or something similar. Just hit eag of the
pin with a soldering iron and you might be good to go, one additional
test is to plug the set in and while running tap the heatsink that the
vertical IC is bolted to with a wooden dowel, if the picture exhibits
the behaviour you mentioned or it goes away you know it's a cold solder
joint
 
Do you have the same for the C3000 Zoom ?

TIA


"Buster" <nobody@nowhere.com> a écrit dans le message news:
b32ir01il99vbmv8g3cf2s4teo47593suc@4ax.com...
I have posted a copy of the Olympus parts drawing and list for the
C700 at http://home.twcny.rr.com/littleblackdogs/C700.pdf
Hope this helps,
Buster
 
On Thu, 09 Dec 2004 02:16:29 GMT sg0ldo1867@yahoo.com (Stephan
Goldstein) wrote:

In article <BDDC5C44.8388%elindago@earthlink.net>, indago <elindago@earthlink.net> wrote:
041206 1008 - indago posted:

snippies
The new foam filled ear cushions are much
more comfortable than the old worn out "liquid filled" ones.

Where did you find new ear cushions?
I got mine directly from Koss. $5 per pair postpaid. Order online from
their web site. Mind just arrived today.

I'd been meaning to do this for years, but this thread finally
reminded me.

-
-----------------------------------------------
Jim Adney jadney@vwtype3.org
Madison, WI 53711 USA
-----------------------------------------------
 
Jim Adney wrote:
On Thu, 09 Dec 2004 02:16:29 GMT sg0ldo1867@yahoo.com (Stephan
Goldstein) wrote:

In article <BDDC5C44.8388%elindago@earthlink.net>, indago
elindago@earthlink.net> wrote:
041206 1008 - indago posted:

snippies
The new foam filled ear cushions are much
more comfortable than the old worn out "liquid filled" ones.

Where did you find new ear cushions?

I got mine directly from Koss. $5 per pair postpaid. Order online from
their web site. Mind just arrived today.

I'd been meaning to do this for years, but this thread finally
reminded me.

Just got a set for my Pro4AAA's. They weren't on the website, but an email
to the company turned up a pair. They said they were some of the last
available....

jak
-
-----------------------------------------------
Jim Adney jadney@vwtype3.org
Madison, WI 53711 USA
-----------------------------------------------
 
"Reed Park" <reedpark@nbnet.nb.ca> wrote in message
news:41B85D12.70503@nbnet.nb.ca...
TimPerry wrote:

http://www.belar.com/ have you tried?



Yes I have Tim. The monitor I am working on is no longer supported by
Belar.
It is obsolete as they say.

Thanks for the reply

Reed

--

U1, U2, U3, U5, U6 are MC1741CP1
U4 is MC1468L
U7 is ne536T
U8 is MC1741SCP1
U9 not used
U10 is MC3302P
U11,U12, U13 are N74122A
U14 is MC7494P

do you have a fax no you can send me? i have complete documentation
schematics, layout, parts list
 
I was curious if you've fixed the problem? (if you haven't, i appologize
for getting your hopes up with this "i have the same problem" post). But
yeah, mine crapped out yesterday, and i reeeally don't want to take it to
a repair shop if its theres easy solution, since it'll probably cost me
just to have someone "look at the problem". Any info you have would be
appreciated.
 
<mroberds@worldnet.att.net> wrote in message
news:HCxud.126908$%x.93266@okepread04...
| Hello all!
|
....
| The reason I was in it was that a cat pissed in it while it was turned on,
| resulting in a totally dead set. ...

What happened to the cat?

You are a brave, brave man. "Cat pissed in it" = non-fixable in my world!

N
 
Buster!! You are a fine and wonderful fellow!!! This is a great help! If
you would like to send me your snail mail address, I will gladly drop
something in the mail to you.

lexmark8792@yahooREMOVETHESE.com

Fred

"Buster" <nobody@nowhere.com> wrote in message
news:b32ir01il99vbmv8g3cf2s4teo47593suc@4ax.com...
I have posted a copy of the Olympus parts drawing and list for the
C700 at http://home.twcny.rr.com/littleblackdogs/C700.pdf
Hope this helps,
Buster
 
On Sat, 11 Dec 2004 22:28:34 GMT, Buster <nobody@nowhere.com> wrote:

Thanks for the offer, but they are free online to dealers. If you need
any others, let me know.
How similar is the c-750? And which is the bit that retains the date/time etc.
while changing the batteries?

--
Chris Pollard


CG Internet café, Tagum City, Philippines
http://www.cginternet.net
 
Yeah, $450 for a pair of convergence IC's and a couple of fuses, with usually
minor convergence touchup is pretty high...
 
On 11 Dec 2004 20:47:19 -0500 Sam Goldwasser <sam@saul.cis.upenn.edu>
wrote:

I'm looking for a few pieces of each of the following connectors. Solder
cup preferred, or crimp with pins. Used is OK as long as they can be
reused. These are in D-sub (DB) shells but with strange combinations
of pins. Some pins are fat for high current while others are normal size,
and one is a mini coax.
I know I've even had catalogs for this in my hands, but I can't
remember who makes them. I believe they are all customs, but I might
be wrong about that.

Googling for d-sub coax got me lots of hits. Finding the place that
will sell you a finite number will be the trick.

Usually there is some kind of trademark on the connector half that you
have that would get you moving in the right direction.

-
-----------------------------------------------
Jim Adney jadney@vwtype3.org
Madison, WI 53711 USA
-----------------------------------------------
 
7 pin male and female which look like:

. .
O . . . O (DB15 shell)
This might be Cannon's DAMC3H3PJK87, Newark PN 93F8924

..
..
..

5 pin male and female which look like:

O O O O C (DB25 shell)
Could be DBM5W5PK87, Newark PN 93F8910

In the 70's, we used connectors of this sort for military-contract
modems. As I recall, Amphenol and Cannon were the primary suppliers.
There are many different pin styles and layouts, mixing small signal,
power and coaxial (even fiber, today, I believe).


Tom
 
7 pin male and female which look like:
This might be Cannon's DAMC3H3PJK87, Newark PN 93F8924

5 pin male and female which look like:
O O O O C (DB25 shell)

Could be DBM5W5PK87, Newark PN 93F8910

In the 70's, we used connectors of this sort for military-contract modems.
As I recall, Amphenol and Cannon were the primary suppliers.
There are many different pin styles and layouts, mixing small signal, power
and coaxial (even fiber, today, I believe).


Tom
 
Ken <user@domain.invalid> wrote:
If the unit works on batteries but not on the adapter, then it is
probably safe to assume that the power the unit needs is not being
provided by the adapter. This could be due to a faulty adapter or a
regulator circuit in the unit that is not converting the input from the
adapter properly. There might be a bad rectifier, bad capacitor, open
conductor, or any number of faults even if the adapter is good. Only by
opening up the unit and taking measurements can you arrive at the reason
it will not work with the adapter.
There is one thing to check first. Most of the time, there is a small
switch to switch of battery power when you connect an adapter. This
switch is often integrated in the connector, and could be open.

---
Met vriendelijke groet,

Maarten Bakker.
 
In article <6wu0qrjwlk.fsf@saul.cis.upenn.edu>, sam@saul.cis.upenn.edu
says...

<snippety>

Thanks. Newark has them (actually the Amphenol connectors which are the
exact match). If you can match their prices on qty. 2-5 of each of these,
I go with you. :)
I don't know that I can match Newark (they've got buying power I
can only dream of), but I'll give it a shot. My local wholesaler is
quite good with the D-subs.

Hold that thought. I'll let you know on Monday.

Keep the peace(es).


--
Dr. Anton T. Squeegee, Director, Dutch Surrealist Plumbing Institute.
(Known to some as Bruce Lane, ARS KC7GR,
kyrrin (a/t) bluefeathertech[d=o=t]calm -- www.bluefeathertech.com
"If Salvador Dali had owned a computer, would it have been equipped
with surreal ports?"
 
I have the same problem. Its an RCA mm52100 Screen TV 52". Bought in 2002.
I'm trying to repair it or just sell it for $100....let someone else fix
it and make some cash.
 
"Da-man" <Socialwork@sucks.com> wrote in message
news:g7%ud.12211$Ae.285@newsread1.dllstx09.us.to.verio.net...
| I was given a Phillips unit to look at, and wanting to have some service
| info - I wrote to the Phillips company from their website. No reply. I was
| explicit on the model. While I probably could repair it without info, I
| prefer to have the info.

They seem to be selling cheap crap these days like so many others. See if
they have a local distributor.

N
 
Ken <user@domain.invalid> wrote:
If the unit works on batteries but not on the adapter, then it is
probably safe to assume that the power the unit needs is not being
provided by the adapter. This could be due to a faulty adapter or a
regulator circuit in the unit that is not converting the input from the
adapter properly. There might be a bad rectifier, bad capacitor, open
conductor, or any number of faults even if the adapter is good. Only by
opening up the unit and taking measurements can you arrive at the reason
it will not work with the adapter.
There is one thing to check first. Most of the time, there is a small
switch to switch off battery power when you connect an adapter. This
switch is often integrated in the connector, and could be open.

---
Met vriendelijke groet,

Maarten Bakker.
 
Cheers Wayne,

I think I might have a go at replacing that IC.
Any ideas about where to source the schematics for this chassis?
I'll google for the IC. :eek:)

Matt.
 

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