Toshiba TV29C90 problem; Image fades to black...

Troubleshoot the power supply, and horizontal output stage. There may be
some capacitors becoming high in ESR.

--

Jerry G.
======

"furry" <nfirmin@yallournenergy.com.au> wrote in message
news:9d7eafce.0409302232.5c75aee0@posting.google.com...
Have a sharp TV model CX80J5 (Australian Model) possibly 6 years old.
Set strats up ok with out Aerial connection and displays blank screen
or "snow"
as soon as aerial connection is made and tuned station displayed set
works fine for 20 - 30 seconds then shuts down. No aerial connection
and set remains on! as soon as it has Picture to display it shuts down
soon after ?

Where to start? any known issues with this area?

thanks in advance.
 
(Based on what you've stated, I agree it is not likely the
battery), but have you tried replacing the charger/AC adapter? It is
possible that it is not putting out sufficient current or shutting down
prematurely resulting in the battery never getting properly charged.

Bob

"Sam Goldwasser" <sam@saul.cis.upenn.edu> wrote in message
news:6wbrfn4aal.fsf@saul.cis.upenn.edu...
Does it operate normally on the AC adapter?

--- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ Mirror:
 
Bob Shuman wrote:
(Based on what you've stated, I agree it is not likely the
battery), but have you tried replacing the charger/AC adapter? It is
possible that it is not putting out sufficient current or shutting down
prematurely resulting in the battery never getting properly charged.
My Olympus 4040Zoom, is hopelessly hard on alkalines. And not so great with
Lithium either (they get hot!). The only suitable battery for it is NiMH.

-Chuck
 
Once the voltages are large, we may want to spread out the ends and
wind them separately, which most likely means that we're back to the
original method of one on top of (and longer than) the other.
Side by side works nicely too. Wind with a bobbin that has a
partition down the middle.


------+ +------
| |
------+ +------
| |
------+ +------


-Chuck
 
In article <cjcg9e$uks$1@n4vu2.n4vu.com>, John Miller <me@privacy.net> wrote:
batteryman wrote:
Im not making a spam I just only want to sell these cd courses to the
people who need them. ANYWAY YOU CANT FIND THIS INFORMATION ON
INTERNET AS YOU HAVE SAID.

AND IT S TOTALLY ILUSTRADED TESTING THE ROTOR,STATOR,DIODES,BRIDGE
DIODES, COMPLETE DESASSEMBLY,REASSEMBLY,ETC.....

Did you write it yourself?
Of course not. He did all the ilustradions, though. You gotta admire
that kind of skill with a crayon.
--
--------------------------------------+------------------------------------
Mike Brown: mjb[at]pootle.demon.co.uk | http://www.pootle.demon.co.uk/
 
I put in William -- wct

It saved it as William--wct

the rest I have no doubts, but I am about to send you an email. We'll see.

JURB
 
"James Peverill" <jamespev@net1plus.com> wrote in message
news:LuCdnV58E_eq1sDcRVn-rw@net1plus.com...
That is what I thought it might be... but the noise doesn't appear to be
from the yoke, but the junction board itself. The board has a few coils
on it, but they don't appear to be the source of the noise either. Its
possible my detection methods aren't accurate enough to pinpoint the
source on the board though.

Maybe I'll try poking with a smaller diameter stick.

Thanks for the ideas!

james
Another idea is find a piece of flexible plastic tubing, stick one end in
your ear and poke around with the other listening for the source. Be careful
not to touch exposed connections, they'll bite.
 
Tom Amundsen schrieb:
I'm trying to repair a Bose amplifier from a '92 Audi. One MOSFET
is cracked and I want to replace it but Google has not been my
friend on identifying this. They are a TO-220 package size. Three
of them are marked ST 99103 137110 one is ST 99112 137110.
Should be TO-220FP (insulated case).

Those are STP20NE06FP with custom marking.
Digikey has at least the IRFIZ24N as fine replacement.


Regards,
Dieter
 
Ir you're in the U.S Panasonic's phone number is

800-833-9626

Their audio manuals are pretty resonably priced.

Mark Z.


"anonymouse" <ymlim0503@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:504f8157.0410011329.609dadc7@posting.google.com...
My Panasonic mini system died last weekend. It just shuts off
immediately with a "F61" error upon powering up. I tried replacing the
fuse, but that didn't appear to be the issue. Research on Usenet
suggests that the output IC may be bad(?)

Is this something which I might be able to easily fix myself? If so,
does anyone know where I might be able to find a service manual or
diagrams for this unit?

If I need to take this to a repair shop, how much might a repair cost?

Thanks,
Y.M. Lim
 
Hi!

can you please send me the procedure for the coolant - I assume you mean
the procedure for replacing coolant and cleaning tubes to regain clear
picture.


I am located in Colorado - would it be possible to send by email, fax, or
snail mail?

Thanks.
 
sherwood@satyam.net.in (T.J. Harry) wrote in news:e6f7d414.0410021025.92c63a9
@posting.google.com:

I am interested to know if more than one magnetron can be used with a
bigger cavity to enhance cooking more quantity of stuff..... relation
of cavity with magnetron's frequency/ power output etc.

-Harry
I think you would have to make a waveguide multiplexer.

r


--
Nothing beats the bandwidth of a station wagon filled with DLT tapes.
 
b <reverend_rogers@yahoo.com> schreef in berichtnieuws
1cfa6663.0410021326.63d283ad@posting.google.com...
This is an old set with a DIN 6 pin socket for the AV input position,
anybody know the pinout? I have checked the net and found various sets
of pinouts for the likes of grundig,:

http://freespace.virgin.net/matt.waite/resource/av/din6a.htm

but these don't work. neither do the DIN to 4 phono adaptors.

any ideas?
thanks
Ben
It need some voltage to switch to AV modus, did you tried that also?


hardware @dl #0 6-Pin-DIN-AV AV 6pol. DIN ------------ u 1 5 2 6 4 3 ___
1 - +12V Schaltspannung über Schutzdiode von der Signalquelle = PTT (max.
100mA)
2 - Video Eingang/Ausgang 1V an 75 Ohm
3 - Masse
4 - Audio Eingang/Ausgang links 260mV eff, Eingangswiderstand > 500 kOhm ___
5 - +12V über Diode "READY for INPUT" = SQL (max. 200mA, u.U. nicht oder mit
Dauerplus beschaltet)
6 - Audio Eingang/Ausgang rechts 260mV eff, Eingangswiderstand > 500 kOhm
(bei Mono nicht beschaltet)

Seems the site has correct information on the DIN socket...
 
On Wed, 29 Sep 2004 23:17:23 GMT, "foolinyu" <foo@BayArea.none> wrote:

I have one of those Iogear KVM switches between two computers using one
monitor, KB and mouse. The KB/mouse combo is wireless and I'm on my second
set as the first transmitter was dead within two weeks - mouse and KB OK.
Does anyone know if KVM and wireless is a bad combination or is it just a
coincidence? I guess I'll know in the next few weeks.

Probably just a coincedence. I have several users with KVM and
wireless keyboards and mice.

-Chris
 
"Tom Amundsen" <tamund@comcastAWAY.net> wrote in news:5I6dnamdtIiSsMPcRVn-
tA@comcast.com:

I'm trying to repair a Bose amplifier from a '92 Audi. One MOSFET
is cracked and I want to replace it but Google has not been my
friend on identifying this. They are a TO-220 package size. Three
of them are marked ST 99103 137110 one is ST 99112 137110. No
numbers on the ST website are close to this. I'd like to get
something from Digi-Key since parts stores are rare here (except for
Radio Shack if they have something that would work). I also assume
I have to replace all four if I can't get an exact replacement. Any
help is greatly appreciated.

Thanks

Tom Amundsen. E-mail: tamund@comcastAWAY.net
Audi has rebuilt radios for around $80.00. At least that was the price I
was quoted some time ago. Has a 1 year warranty too.

r


--
Nothing beats the bandwidth of a station wagon filled with DLT tapes.
 
On 2 Oct 2004 14:26:46 -0700, reverend_rogers@yahoo.com (b) wrote:

This is an old set with a DIN 6 pin socket for the AV input position,
anybody know the pinout? I have checked the net and found various sets
of pinouts for the likes of grundig,:

Model number?
Our "old" ITT set has a 5 pin din (on the front) but it is only for headphones.

Geo
 
Thanks for the update
I'll try the power supply thing, however, when q901 is removed
from the circuit all the voltages return to normal. The set powers
up the voltages on the convergence board are correct. But of
course, the set won't work without these components. Although, I do
believe the voltages got "better" when q901 & 902 were replaced

Doug

----------------------------------------------
Posted with NewsLeecher v1.0 beta 26
* Binary Usenet Leeching Made Easy
* http://www.newsleecher.com/?usenet
----------------------------------------------
 
Arguments on this topic are, like this instance, usually without benefit of
fact.

The "coffee incident" happened here in Albuquerque, NM. There was MUCH more
detail in the local media coverage than has ever made it to the web.

The McDonald's in question *DID* have a "coffee is served hot" warning sign on
the drive-up window...where the cup in question was purchased.

The "victim" set the coffee between her theighs squeezing it to hold the cup
still, then attempted to remove the lid to put sugar in (her testimony in open
court). Following the laws of physics, the cup collapsed and dumped the coffee
into her crotch.

I could be wrong, but the victim's daughter called a lawyer from the hospital
emergency room (testimony in open court).

Except for the judge involved, I've never heard anyone local who though this
case had anything to do with justice. It was all about the jackpot.
webpa
 
"James Sweet" <jamessweet@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:rz18d.3255$Xk1.1301@trnddc02...
|
| "NSM" <nowrite@to.me> wrote in message
news:SoM7d.12569$223.9309@edtnps89...

| > I stayed in a house in Alaska a few years ago which had a regular
electric
| > range, BUT, the oven was also a microwave. According to the instructions
| it
| > could cook a chicken in 10 minutes. Considering the age of the unit, and
| how
| > poorly the door fit, I declined to use that function. (Shades of Homer
| > Simpson)!
| >
| > N
|
| I saw an ad for those recently, it was in an old home improvement book
from
| the late 70's, never actually seen one in action but it looked
interesting.
| Obviously they weren't particularly successful in the market.

I had visions of my finger working as a remote control afterwards! How many
watts WAS that thing? 2500?

N
 
"larrymoencurly" <larrymoencurly@my-deja.com> wrote in message
news:755e968a.0410031718.36d14f87@posting.google.com...
....
| National Semiconductor says that each USB port must have a 120uF or
| larger ....................................... But my USB card has
| only a 100uF aluminum capacitor and maybe a ceramic capacitor in
| parallel for this....

Close enough!

N
 

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