Toshiba TV29C90 problem; Image fades to black...

Hello,

You'll be glad to know that i am a printer technican and i repair
printers for a living, If you need a diagram for the 740 epson
carriage assembley reply to me leave me your email i can attach the
diagram for you.

OK

Take Care
Martin


I have an Epson 740 inkjet printer.

After not using it for a while, I discovered that the inkjet nozzles
were apparently clogged to the point where the "head cleaning routine"
was of limited usefulness.
The printouts show signs of missing lines and "bleeding fibers"
indicating the presence of accumulated residue around the nozzles.

I'd like to be able to free the print head carriage assembly
so that I can wipe the front of the nozzles and clean them,
but I can't find the right screws to remove.
Click to expand...
 
Hello all
Have got this TV-VCR combination in for repair.
SMPS board plenty of completely burned resistors, chopper IC TEA2261 and
TEA5170.
Locally no diagrams available.
It seems the CY-14v20 and the CI-14v20 are using the same SMPS board.
Did get a download, but unlucky the SMPS diagram is unreadable.
If anyone can scan just the SMPS diagram I will be very grateful
Take the obvious from my e-mail address.
Thanks Bert
 
"MarkC" <markcharles@webtv.net> wrote in message
news:16537-419317E2-176@storefull-3134.bay.webtv.net...
| What type of equipment were these used on? Anything specific for this
| part #?

They could have been used for many tube devices designed to run off an auto
battery - even military. How many pins?

N
 
NSM wrote:
"MarkC" <markcharles@webtv.net> wrote in message
news:16537-419317E2-176@storefull-3134.bay.webtv.net...
| What type of equipment were these used on? Anything specific for this
| part #?

They could have been used for many tube devices designed to run off an auto
battery - even military. How many pins?

N


FWIW, the military stuff I've seen generally used a dynamotor instead.
Click to expand...

--
The e-mail address in our reply-to line is reversed in an attempt to
minimize spam. Our true address is of the form che...@prodigy.net.
 
In article <pkq4p0l3utn4d1enfl43mmaqijrbv689h1@4ax.com>,
baltimora@psu.edu says...
I'm working on a Philips 60P8342 (P916 chassis) that shuts down about
3 to 5 seconds after turn on.
Click to expand...
Do you get a blinking power LED?
If so, it will blink the error code.

Most common I have seen is error 2, which is
supposed to be vertical sweep failure, but usually
the problem is not in the vertical sweep, but in
the circuits that detect the presence of sweep.

If I am thinking of the right chassis, I have only
seen one with an actual large signal failure, and
the rest have all been flaky SSB boards. This is
the little board in the SIMM socket near the right
side of the set. In the case of the alleged error 2,
it has been a shorted input pin on the microprocessor,
the pin that receives the vertical pulse. These
little boards, which are the brains of the set, seem
to be chronic failure items. Of course there are
some SMD resistors, capacitors, and a transistor
that "condition" the signal before feeding it to
the SSB, but the signal path seems to always be okay.
And of course, the SSB is hard to get at and diagnose.

IIRC, there is a PC software and interface package
available to diagnose these new chassis. Like anyone
can afford such a thing in this day of disposable
TV's. Maybe the factory has one. Good luck!
 
"Darren Harris" <Searcher7@mail.con2.com> wrote in message
news:9437a27c.0411110754.6457ee1d@posting.google.com...
| > It's not terribly complicated, but either way you'll pretty much need to
use
| > a microcontroller. Check out www.maximic.com for LCD display driver
chips,
| > and look at www.atmel.com or www.microchip.com for microcontroller info.
You
| > could save some hardware time by using a ready-made LCD display, 16
| > character x 2 line displays are relatively common, cheap, and not overly
| > complex to drive. To save some time coding you can skip the assembly
| > language and look into one of the compilers out there, RVK Basic, Bascom
| > Basic, PICBasic, C, etc. Another advantage of this approach is that if
you
| > don't like the way it works or think of a new feature you want, you
simply
| > tweak the code until it works the way you want it to.
|
| Unfortunately, since I know nothing about microcontrollers, driver
| chips, or programming, can anyone advise me on how I can find someone
| who could do this?

If you look on the Microchip site you will find all the app notes you will
need. Look at PIC Microcontrollers. http://www.microchip.com/

N
 
"Darren Harris" <Searcher7@mail.con2.com> wrote in message
Click to expand...
Darren,

Your email is bogus.

If you want this project, you will have to send me an email.

hamilton AT dimensional DOT com
 
"PaPaPeng" <papapeng@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:ec1ap0psb1ub3uj4467kgb156hfv071kle@4ax.com...
| My house will be empty for an extended period. I will of course have
| timer switches to turn on the lights to give an appearance of
| occupancy. I would also like to turn on the TV set but the regular
| switch timer will not work. Is there some plug-on device I can use to
| turn the TV on and off at selected times? Or better still a
| programmable device to give it a random pattern of TV usage.

There used to be - a Radio Shack learning remote with timers.

Just use a radio instead. That'll work off a timer.

N
 
"Darren Harris" <Searcher7@mail.con2.com> wrote in message
news:9437a27c.0411121234.16d3ed4e@posting.google.com...

| Translation = Get up off my ass. :)
|
| My experience is that I'll spend months running all over the internet
| trying to gather info on this, unless there is a step-by-step
| document(with visual aids) somewhere thet covers *every* detail.(It
| seems that nothing is ever really straight forward). :)
|
| Darren Harris
| Staten Island, New York.

I emailed you with a good starting point and info. Does this
Searcher7@mail.con2.com actually work?

N
 
On 12 Nov 2004 12:50:52 -0800, Searcher7@mail.con2.com (Darren Harris)
wrote:


And that represents the simple version?

It seems that what I need is the same as what one of those racing
watches that record lap times do, but with LCD screen/s as a read-out.
Click to expand...
---
Yes, and eminently doable using digital logic.

For a simple timer, the "brute force" way to do it is to use one
counter and a BCD-to-seven-segment decoder with an on-board latch and
LCD driver for each digit. You can also use a single pushbutton
switch to reset the counter to zero and start a new timing interval on
the first push, and then to stop the counter and display the
accumulated time on the second push. You can get a single static
display with four or five LCD digits on it from Digi-Key, so that's no
problem, and you'll also need a decent clock oscillator and a little
glue logic to hold the whole thing together. All those parts are also
available from Digi-Key, and if that's what you want to build, I'll
draw you a schematic. Interested?

--
John Fields
 
Darren Harris wrote:
Splits = individual lap times.

I'll settle for a single LCD display if I have to.

Since this appears to be too complicated, perhaps I can start off with
something simple. Does anyone know how to build a simple timer with an
LCD screen that shows hours, minutes, and seconds?


Unfortunately, driving an LCD screen isn't a simple thing; they are
really designed to be driven using software. There may be front-end
chips which simplify them, but LED 7-Segment displays are much easier to
drive from discrete logic.

Building a 'simple' timer with discrete, digital logic isn't as easy as
it seems. You need

1) a timer source, like an oscillator circuit
2) a counter (or more like a set of counter chips)
3) logic to sample these counter outputs, and display the results on an
the LED segments.

At the least, this will require

1) a crystal oscillator/divider, like the philips hef4521b combination
oscillator/divider chip. Using a crystal, you can generate accurate one
second clock pulses

2) a set of bcd counters, one per decade of timing accuracy.
3) a set of LED 7-segment display drivers, one per digit.
4) some 7 segment displays
5) power supply
6) enclosure

You can get fancy and multiplex the LED displays, thus cutting down on
the number of chips required, but this increases the complexity a bit,
requiring more logic.

Note that a microcontroller costing less than a buck can replace 1-3
with a simple program of about 100 lines of assembler. Also, there are
designs for discrete timer circuits out on the web, if you want to look
and see what you are getting yourself into before starting.

If you decide to try to show speeds, you'll need division as well, which
is fairly easy in a microcontroller, and much harder with digital logic.


And that represents the simple version?

It seems that what I need is the same as what one of those racing
watches that record lap times do, but with LCD screen/s as a read-out.
Click to expand...
Sorry, I was just trying to point out the complexities involved. If you
are just going to go out and buy a watch, and that works for you, fine.
I thought you wanted to build something.

Those watches you see are undoubtedly controlled by either a
microcontroller, or by a custom built chip of some kind, containing the
sorts of parts (on a miniature scale) that I described above. Almost
anything with any real complexity is done in software these days. Trying
to do this in discrete TTL logic, for example, requires up to 11 chips
for a 5 decade display.

You may be able to buy one of these watches, and hack into the buttons
to control it. However, the buttons are probably integrated into the
PCB, so it may take a bit of actual hacking. Doing a larger display
using one of these would be practically hopeless.

I'm sorry if this is not what you need, but you are asking for something
that isn't trivial. It may seem that it would HAVE to be trivial by
looking at the prices of these items these days. Those prices really
reflect mass production, and economies of scale, rather than simplicity.

--
Regards,
Robert Monsen

"Your Highness, I have no need of this hypothesis."
- Pierre Laplace (1749-1827), to Napoleon,
on why his works on celestial mechanics make no mention of God.
 
John Fields wrote:
On Thu, 11 Nov 2004 21:44:53 GMT, Robert Monsen
rcsurname@comcast.net> wrote:



If you decide to try to show speeds, you'll need division as well, which
is fairly easy in a microcontroller, and much harder with digital logic.


It doesn't have to be, since all you really have to do is change the
clock speed.
Click to expand...
This sounds like something I want to understand. Say I'm trying to
display the speed of a slot-car, given a sensor that detects the start
and end of the race. Clocks measure time. You have distance as a given
of the design. How would you do this?

Thanks

--
Regards,
Robert Monsen

"Your Highness, I have no need of this hypothesis."
- Pierre Laplace (1749-1827), to Napoleon,
on why his works on celestial mechanics make no mention of God.
 
[CUT]
I have a little tablet PC with a broken hard drive cable. The cable is
one of those filmy orange plastic deals with tiny, closely packed traces
(looks like about .5mm between the traces). The previous owner ripped
the cable almost in half. Scraping the plastic coating off the traces is
easy enough, but I can't come up with a good way of reconnecting them.
Try to read the Retronomicon FAQ
Click to expand...
(http://www.retro-it.org/retronomicon/html/intro.htm)
It's in italian but Google Traduction can help you.

Hope this helps,
Inti3
 
Hi, I have the same problem, however my burned R8 is about 680 ohms. But be
aware, the diode D4, just beside R8, is also shorted. This burned D4 (a 12
Volt stabilizing diode) is the reason for the burned R8, so you have to
replace them both even there is no visual damage to D4.
I presume a value of 680 ohm for the R8 resistor is a realistic
value........
 
"PaPaPeng" <papapeng@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:ec1ap0psb1ub3uj4467kgb156hfv071kle@4ax.com...
My house will be empty for an extended period. I will of course have
timer switches to turn on the lights to give an appearance of
occupancy. I would also like to turn on the TV set but the regular
switch timer will not work. Is there some plug-on device I can use to
turn the TV on and off at selected times? Or better still a
programmable device to give it a random pattern of TV usage.
Click to expand...
Most Sony TV's will retain the state of the power switch when unplugged so
that would work, but why bother with the TV? Just put a radio on the timer.
Even with that though, I'm not sure how useful all this is for anything
other than wasting energy, most burglars will watch for the occupants of a
house to all leave, many will knock at the door or call to make sure
nobody's home, a timer on some lights won't help much there.
 
Exactly the same problem: my DVD612 pauses after about 60min. Impossible
to continue to watch the movie.
I tried to remove the top cover at runtime (suspecting a heat problem),
but it didn't changed anything, even after 10 minutes letting the device
off.
I also think that some components, getting old, are more sensitive to
temperature, but no idea how to repair.

fred


Mickael Lorgeoux Wrote:
Hi,
I have the DVD player philips DVD612 since 3 years, it worked well up
to
few weeks ago.

Now, after around 30-45min of DVD disc reading, the image freezes and
the message "disc error" is displayed. After that it is not possible
to
re-start the reading, even after an on/off.

I have clean up the lens of laser diode but it has no effect... It may
be a heating problem but what to do??

Any help is welcome.

Mickael
Click to expand...

--
fred
 
On Sat, 13 Nov 2004 22:13:18 GMT, PaPaPeng <papapeng@yahoo.com> wrote:

Come to think of it - a timer - to the power cube - to the remote - is
a simpler implementation.
Click to expand...
No good. If there is no power to the remote it loses its settings.
So power cube to remote's battery terminals must always be on. Timer
to the ON-OFF switch only. Haven't figured this out yet.
 
"PaPaPeng" <papapeng@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:nsddp0hc35u76q8dcip3ccvisq985qmfv5@4ax.com...
| On Sat, 13 Nov 2004 22:13:18 GMT, PaPaPeng <papapeng@yahoo.com> wrote:
|
| >
| >Come to think of it - a timer - to the power cube - to the remote - is
| >a simpler implementation.
|
| No good. If there is no power to the remote it loses its settings.
| So power cube to remote's battery terminals must always be on. Timer
| to the ON-OFF switch only. Haven't figured this out yet.

A search for (programmable remote) got many hits, inc.

http://www.web-ee.com/Schematics/Universal%20Remote/upr.htm

N
 
Have had this camera a long time but all of a sudden, it started giving me
the "battery empty" message right after I install 4 new batteries.

IT'S NOT THE BATTERIES OR THE BATTERY CONNECTIONS.

Nothing special happened the day it started -- I had taken about
100 photos with no problem, then when the batteries ran out, I put in 4 new
ones and got 2 photos before "battery empty" message came up. Same ever
since.

Wonder if anyone had this problem come up on this or a similar model?

Thanks!!
Fred
 
On Sun, 14 Nov 2004 05:05:39 GMT, "James Sweet"
<jamessweet@hotmail.com> wrote:


That sounds like a Rube Goldberg contraption, why on earth bother when you
can get a programmable remote that will do what you want without mods? Or
get a cheap universal and connect a relay across the power button and build
a little timer circuit with a 555 and a counter chip to trigger the relay at
"random" intervals.
Click to expand...

Unfortunately my electronics skills are limited. 87 pages to go
through plus parts is a week's project. The time I have left before
flying off is even more limited. The Rube Goldberg thingy is actually
mechanical - just a 12 hour rotating disk with two tiny holes. Can't
get any simpler. I may get a 24 hour timer motor from surplus parts.
 
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