Toshiba TV29C90 problem; Image fades to black...

[Jason D.]

On Mon, 08 Nov 2004 04:39:14 -0000, dwebster3@cfl.rr.com (DWebster)
wrote:

Been out of it for awhile, between hurricanes and rebuilding
computer...
Great news.. Where can I get a stk711-550???
My supplier doen't stock them

JVC or alternative good electronic suppliers.

Cheers,

Wizard

Thanks
Doug

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[Tony]

"Watson A.Name - "Watt Sun, the Dark Remover"" <NOSPAM@dslextreme.com> wrote
in message news:10oqfdkqtdk3q94@corp.supernews.com...

"NSM" <nowrite@to.me> wrote in message
news:OO8jd.88090$df2.75976@edtnps89...

"Roger Hamlett" <rogerspamignored@ttelmah.demon.co.uk> wrote in
message
news:EP0jd.66$dq4.41@newsfe6-win.ntli.net...

| Interesting. The exact opposite of me. We have over 300 printer in
the
| company I work for. The running costs for HP equivalent models,
worked out
| over double that of the Epsons, with a hige number of 'early
replacement'
| cartridges. We have had just two Epson's develop clogged nozzles,
and both
| cleared.

Allegedly the price for inkjet ink works out to be several times the
price
of the finest French Champagne.

N

*That* is why they say, "Never argue with someone who buys ink by the
gallon."


;-))

http://www.funny2.com/never.htm

http://www.enquirer.com/editions/2004/06/13/editorial_mayorluken.html

And the one significant thing that separates you from the educational
establishment is that word business.They don't feel the purse strings
tightening and when not held accountable , plain just don't account.
Looking through their setup it is quite asy to imagine that it would pay
them to have a spending ceiling set and have one person appointed to
maintain and renovate printers.
If their on call Tech is from the supplying company I wonder what he would
recommend when refurbish or a new replacement is the decision
I don't know about the USA so much but in the UK that is our taxes being
abused.
Tony
--
Spit less spotlets - spotless inkjet prints...
http://www.inkylinkusa.com 30% more ink
http://www.aah-haa.com/affiliates.htm
And a nice little earner...

 

[Ed Price]

"Tony" <auct1@pantsaah-haa.com> wrote in message
news:6NadnbGD8KSiHRHcRVn-pw@nildram.net...

That was firstly exhausting and then enthralling to comprehend...
I write and like horror stories about the human pysche: would you like to
contact me and play name-em-and-shame-em, anonomously of course. No wonder
the Western World is despised for its waste mountain.
Tony.

The Western World is despised by envious cretins who cannot, or will not,
admit the benefits of concepts like sanitary water systems. Their faulty
logic romanticizes the noble savage , wiping his ass with a stick and a pile
of sand, and earning his progeny the reward of a 30-year life expectancy.

Ed
wb6wsn

 

[Jim Lazzaro]

As Frank suuggested to look for, I found 2 transistors to be shorted
in the standby circuit. I have replaced them and the associated
capacitors.
Now the remote is properly switching the TV on and off.
Thank you all for assisting me in the repair.
Jim.


Jim_Lazzaro@hotmail.com (Jim Lazzaro) wrote in message news:<fae7122f.0411041509.621ce4e7@posting.google.com>...

Hello Franc and thanks for your input, I had another quick search for
faulty components and just as you said I found a shorted transistor. I
have run out of time but once I complete the repair I would like to
report back to all;
Jim




Franc Zabkar <fzabkar@optussnet.com.au> wrote in message news:<bkhio0ttjs7avajd60clo1q7oq510inn1q@4ax.com>...
On 3 Nov 2004 06:17:16 -0800, Jim_Lazzaro@hotmail.com (Jim Lazzaro)
put finger to keyboard and composed:

Thanks for suggestions, I followed the standby back to an IC
(CTV322S)

FWIW, that appears to be a mask ROMmed uC:
http://wwww.ges.cz/sheet/p/pca84c64.pdf


- Franc Zabkar

 

[Lionel]

Kibo informs me that Jaden <jaden@erisSANS-SPAMwerks.org> stated that:

I have a little tablet PC with a broken hard drive cable. The cable is
one of those filmy orange plastic deals with tiny, closely packed traces
(looks like about .5mm between the traces). The previous owner ripped
the cable almost in half. Scraping the plastic coating off the traces is
easy enough, but I can't come up with a good way of reconnecting them.
[...]
Has anyone here fixed one of these cables? Is there any good way of
doing it?

If you have exceptional eyesight, a good soldering station with a very
fine tip & extremely steady hands, it's possible to scrape off the
coating & bridge the tear with solder-through wire. Lightly tin the
traces & wire first, & don't try to apply solder when you're actually
attaching the wires. You'll need to splint the repaired area to prevent
the joints from snapping when you reinstall the cable - a layer or two
of insulation tape works okay, but you'll still need to be very gentle
with it. This is not a procedure for the faint-hearted, but it's worked
for me a couple of times when I've been very, very desperate to get
something working immediately.
*Note* Most such cables have a thick layer (carrier/substrate) on one
side & a thin one on the other, & you need to scrape away the thin
layer. You can identify the carrier by looking at the tinned connector
strip at the end of the cable - you need to be soldering to the same
side of the cable as the existing connection points.

--
W
. | ,. w , "Some people are alive only because
\|/ \|/ it is illegal to kill them." Perna condita delenda est
---^----^---------------------------------------------------------------

 

[Lubbie]

Thank you very much.. Let me know if you need anything..

Lubbie..



On Tue, 9 Nov 2004 18:11:26 -0600, "Lance Dyer" <dyerl@sasktel.net>
wrote:

SYMPTOM: Set is dead, line fuse is open. Further inspection reveals Q551 is
shorted.

CAUSE: Horizontal Output Transistor Q551 has failed due to excessive reverse
bias across the

collector-emitter electrodes. This may have resulted from turn-on and
turn-off transients, hydro

line transients or the like.

REMEDY: Replace Q551 with the improved type (available in kit form). With
most models, it will be

necessary to change resistors R510 and R511 as well, to reset the H drive
T501 primary

saturation current. Please refer to the following listing for kit
application and ordering details.

NOTE: The new type transistor is larger. Use caution when forming the leads
to fit the PC board and

the heat sink. Apply silicon compound to the transistor surface prior to
securing it to the heat

sink.

Service Kit Contents:

Part No. Q551 Qty. 2SD2499LBMA2 2SD2539LBMA1

"Lubbie" <lubbie@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:8u92p0hups551qg4n48ocee8k6702v4j1r@4ax.com...


Does anyone have a manual for this?? I'm looking for the original
Output Transistor # if anybody has it.

This TV has blown the output every year for the past 5 years( 5
differant shops).. Now I've ended up with it for repair.. Any help
would be great..

Thanks in advance.

 

[Clarence]

"NSM" <nowrite@to.me> wrote in message news:OO8jd.88090$df2.75976@edtnps89...

"Roger Hamlett" <rogerspamignored@ttelmah.demon.co.uk> wrote in message
news:EP0jd.66$dq4.41@newsfe6-win.ntli.net...

| Interesting. The exact opposite of me. We have over 300 printer in the
| company I work for. The running costs for HP equivalent models, worked out
| over double that of the Epsons, with a hige number of 'early replacement'
| cartridges. We have had just two Epson's develop clogged nozzles, and both
| cleared.

Allegedly the price for inkjet ink works out to be several times the price
of the finest French Champagne.

N

By the quart it is about the same as that Cheap booze.
California bubbly tastes better anyway!

 

[Robert Hancock]

Robert Hancock wrote:

I'm trying to fix a set of Monsoon MH-505 computer speakers. These have
a subwoofer and 5 satellite speakers. The problem is that when you power
it up the subwoofer's cone pulls all the way in and you get a fairly
loud hum from it. The other speakers do seem to work, albeit not very
loudly.

The speaker output for the sub seems stuck down at -14 volts with no
audio input. It's driven by a Philips TDA8510 amp chip (there are two of
these in the unit). The inputs for the sub channel on that chip (pins 15
and 17) are sitting up at around 5 volts while the inputs on the other
channels on that chip and on the other TDA8510 chip are all sitting at
around 2.1 volts, which it seems likely has something to do with it.
That input seems arranged differently in the circuit - the other inputs
have a cap in series with them before the amp chip but this one doesn't,
as far as I can see. It goes through a cable to the other side of the
board, through a resistor (measures about 150 ohms), looks like it's
bypassed to ground by a cap, and then into pin 14 of another chip, made
by ST and labeled 074C 90X124. Not sure exactly what that it is, but
seems like it may be an LM124 quad op-amp. There are two of these chips
- assuming they're LM124s, all of the input and output pins are sitting
at around 5 volts.

I think there's something wrong on the input of the TDA8510, but I can't
really see what would cause the voltage to be any different than it is..
it's the kind of situation where I can't see how it worked in the first
place! Anyone have any suggestions?

Figured it out - what I thought was an (SMT) resistor in series between
the op-amp and the TDA8510 chip was actually supposed to be a capacitor,
except it was leaky. Replacing that cap with a new one appears to have
fixed it.

--
Robert Hancock Saskatoon, SK, Canada
To email, remove "nospam" from hancockr@nospamshaw.ca
Home Page: http://www.roberthancock.com/

 

[Andy Cuffe]

On Thu, 04 Nov 2004 16:02:07 GMT, "Larry B" <hatespam@hatespam.gov>
wrote:

Last weekend, someone used it (not personally witnessed) and the digital
module (Touchmatic II) went dead. I don't know what mortal code they entered
on the touchpad but it is truly dead. I have a rusty old RR-10 in the garage
for parts. So, I replaced the tube thermal cutout switch (which was open)
and the digital module. The rusty digital module works great but has a poor
Wife Acceptance Factor. Unfortunately, the original module is still dead. As
a further clue, when the the connector plug for the module is plugged in,
the buzzer should chirp. The original doesn't even chirp.

Why don't you swap the good electronics onto the good chrome? The
glass touch panel and all the electronics come off as a single unit.
Andy Cuffe
baltimora@psu.edu

 

[Tony]

"wylbur37" <wylbur37nospam@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:8028c236.0411050509.287d0f5f@posting.google.com...

I have an Epson 740 inkjet printer.

After not using it for a while, I discovered that the inkjet nozzles
were apparently clogged to the point where the "head cleaning routine"
was of limited usefulness.

A solvent for dye based inks is commonly used. Windex (Windolene UK) is a
window cleaning fluid which disperses encrusted or dried ink: Some of the
newer shower dispersant cleaners work equally well.
Firstly try a few drops on the docking sponge area which is where the heads
sit when parked.
Whipping out the mains plug in mid flight will expose this.
With a cotton bud introcude a few droplets on the piercing splines and the
sponge.
In real determined blockage cases - fill a spent cartridge with the solvent
(Household ammonia 10:1 works as well) and print a few windy pages . Letting
it sit overnight can also ease it further.
The so called cleaning cycle is really priming of ink through the feeder
tubes and seldom cleans.
Tony
--
Spit less spotlets - spotless inkjet prints...
http://www.inkylinkusa.com 30% more ink
http://www.aah-haa.com/affiliates.htm
And a nice little earner...

 

[JVC Dude]

no equivalents but there are copies (here in UK) at sensible prices.

AW

"Stefan Toftevall" <stefan.toftevall@bredband.net> wrote in message
news:c4f805eb.0411041046.3a1ca4ab@posting.google.com...

Hi all,
Well, I got a denon 2000f mkII very cheap and I assume both lasers
needs replacement. This unit are using the SHARP laser RCTRH8147 which
is quite expensive so are there any cheaper eqvivalents suitable for
this player?
The same laser is fitted in the dn2500 aswell.
Regards, Stefan

 

[Art]

I would wager on the tuner being defective since other channels in the same
frequency band are being received. I concur with connecting another tele to
the source and confirm reception.
"dkuhajda" <rdkuhajda_at_locl_dot_net@locl.net> wrote in message
news:Xns959CCD4E0E4A1rdda@140.186.146.4...

12 years old. There is a very good chance it simply does not have those
channels available.

 

[Charles Schuler]

http://www.diagnosticengineers.org/

 

[Andrew Rossmann]

[This followup was posted to sci.electronics.repair and a copy was sent
to the cited author.]

In article <xbckd.318631$wV.140429@attbi_s54>,
h.mcguffinspamouflage@comcast.net says...

My Crosley 19" TV is about twelve years of age. I cannot get it to tune
channels 95 through 97. It does tune in about everything else including 98
and 99. Is there actually a problem or was the set designed this way?

It's the age of your TV. It's not programmed for those frequencies. My
parents have some similar age or older TV's with the same problem. The
frequencies are in what is normally the FM radio band.

--
If there is a no_junk in my address, please REMOVE it before replying!
All junk mail senders will be prosecuted to the fullest extent of the
law!!
http://home.att.net/~andyross

 

[Jim Adney]

On Tue, 09 Nov 2004 23:14:37 GMT "Silver Surfer"
<h.mcguffinspamouflage@comcast.net> wrote:

My Crosley 19" TV is about twelve years of age. I cannot get it to tune
channels 95 through 97. It does tune in about everything else including 98
and 99. Is there actually a problem or was the set designed this way?

Are there actually channels 95, 6, & 7 in your area?

-
-----------------------------------------------
Jim Adney jadney@vwtype3.org
Madison, WI 53711 USA
-----------------------------------------------

 

[Darren Harris]

What's a "split"?

Apparently not just plain multiple displays, each with its own
"latch" button, all started and clocked together.

Cheers!
Rich

Splits = individual lap times.

I'll settle for a single LCD display if I have to.

Since this appears to be too complicated, perhaps I can start off with
something simple. Does anyone know how to build a simple timer with an
LCD screen that shows hours, minutes, and seconds?

Thanks.

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.

 

[Spacecraftengr]

Hi- just signed on. Did anyone in this thread actually locate a schematic
for this model? If there's a soft copy that could be e-mailed to me, or
just a URL to that puppy, please send or post here. Thanks!

S/C engr

 

[MarkC]

What type of equipment were these used on? Anything specific for this
part #?
Thanks, Mark

 

[CJT]

MarkC wrote:

What type of equipment were these used on? Anything specific for this
part #?
Thanks, Mark




Probably a tube auto radio, no?

--
The e-mail address in our reply-to line is reversed in an attempt to
minimize spam. Our true address is of the form che...@prodigy.net.

 

[John Del]

Subject: Philips PTV916 shutdown problem
From: Andy Cuffe baltimora@psu.edu
Date: 11/10/04 2:31 PM Eastern Standard Time
Message-id: <pkq4p0l3utn4d1enfl43mmaqijrbv689h1@4ax.com

I have the electronic version of the
service manual and so far everything I've checked looks good.

Wow, if you can get Philips e-manuals to run, you're way ahead of me. But I'll
offer some advice anyway.

Check any secondaries off the HV transformer. If the voltages appear in the
normal range before shutdown, I would defeat the shutdown circuit (you already
confirmed vert and horiz deflection, so it should be safe to do if the HV isn't
too high).

I try to avoid all Philips projectors, but I have seen the splitter cause this
when the internal feedback divider goes off value.

John Del
Wolcott, CT

"I'm just trying to get into heaven, I'm not running for Jesus!"
Homer Simpson

(remove S for email reply)