Toshiba TV29C90 problem; Image fades to black...

[john jardine]

"wylbur37" <wylbur37nospam@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:8028c236.0411050509.287d0f5f@posting.google.com...

I have an Epson 740 inkjet printer.

After not using it for a while, I discovered that the inkjet nozzles
were apparently clogged to the point where the "head cleaning routine"
was of limited usefulness.
The printouts show signs of missing lines and "bleeding fibers"
indicating the presence of accumulated residue around the nozzles.

I'd like to be able to free the print head carriage assembly
so that I can wipe the front of the nozzles and clean them,
but I can't find the right screws to remove.

The Epson website has various manuals to download but they don't seem
to have the one that I need. Their Product Information Guide on setup
and testing (sc740_pg.pdf) mentions (on page 15,
under Related Documentation) the "TM-SC467 Epson Stylus Color
440/640/740 Service Manual", but that publication is apparently
nowhere to be found on their website.

Can someone either
(a) explain how to remove the print head assembly so the nozzles can be
cleaned or
(b) mention a website where the necessary documentation is available
for download or
(c) if you have the document, send me a copy via email as an attachment.


Thanks for your help.

My original 600dpi by 1200dpi '600' model ran for 2 years with a cleaning
cycle needed only rarely. Cartridges refilled by syringe. Used litres of
ink. Scrapped it as the flex PCB to the head 'fatigued'.
My next '740' model (same as yours) used to clog up if left for more than 10
days. (finer nozzles but cartridges still syringe refillable) Forced to
become an expert on nozzle cleaning, most of the nozzles could usually be
cleared. Finally blocked up and stayed blocked so I scrapped it.
Last model was the 'C82'. 1000's by 1000's of dpi. Chipped, non refillable
cartridges, huge cartridge costs. Blocked after 7 days of non use. Managed a
month and numerous cleaning cycles before heads permenantly blocked. Usual
unclog methods failed, ended up trying pressurised hot ammonia through the
nozzles (caused the nozzle driver I.C to melt . Scrapped it.
Pi***d off with Epsons, bought a next to nothing cost HP 3650. Quality not
brilliant, software is shite but have had it 10 months with not a single
problem, it has yet to block up, has taken none of my time and best of all,
the original cartridges can still be refilled, so costs are near zero.
Moral of the story is that Epsom just don't know how to make high dpi
printers that work in the real world.
regards
john

 

[NSM]

"john jardine" <john@jjdesigns.fsnet.co.uk> wrote in message
news:cmmln7$7df$1@newsg1.svr.pol.co.uk...

....
| Moral of the story is that Epsom just don't know how to make high dpi
| printers that work in the real world.

I believe the true moral is that Epson will do most anything to get you to
buy their ink carts, possibly including not making too great of a printer.
Still, my Stylus II is still running and I bought a lifetime's supply of
real Epson carts on eBay for pennies, so it's a toss up which gives up
first.

N

 

[Lenny]

Hi Jim
I really would appreciate that referral! You can respond directly to
my email if you like. captainvideo4620021@centralpets.com. Lenny
(remove the "1" from my address when emailing.)

Jim Adney <jadney@vwtype3.org> wrote in message news:<trcjo0lpr73b3a6p0lh2qabc34tq7fmjhi@4ax.com>...

On 2 Nov 2004 20:23:05 -0800 captainvideo462002@yahoo.com (Lenny)
wrote:

I have an old Dynohub that I would like to respoke to use on the
mountain bike which I just built. I clamped the axle nut in the vise
on my bench and spun the hub at what I would guess would be a road
speed of about 10MPH. The open circuit voltage, depending on speed
measured between 6.0 and 8.0VAC. I then tested the hub with a
headlight which has a 6.0V 450ma bulb in it. This is not the headlight
which goes with the hub but I think it uses the same rating for a
bulb. The hub's voltage dropped to 3.0V. Increasing the speed at this
point did not increase the voltage. And that wasn't even full load as
the tail light wasn't connected. Does anyone have any experience with
these things and if so perhaps you may know what kind of current these
hubs supposed to be able to produce?

I don't know the specs of the bulbs used, but I can put you in touch
with someone who does, if you want me to. I recall that both the
Dynohub bulbs (F & R) were rather special and you couldn't just buy a
standard US bulb for these.

The IMPORTANT thing that I really want to convey to you is that YOU
MUST NOT TAKE THIS HUB APART without learning exactly what to do
first. The permanent magnet in there will lose a significant amount of
brightness if you pull it the armature out of it without a keeper
SIMULTANEOUSLY taking its place. If you don't have a keeper, I think I
have one here, or you might be able to make your own if you have a
lathe.

The Dynohub was never very bright, and when these were fairly common,
fully half of them on the streets would have been ruined by improper
assembly. I have a NOS replacement Dynohub magnet in the basement.
They came from SA with a keeper in them. SA would also take back bad
magnets and "recharge" them, but I don't think that was ever done
outside the UK. There is one fellow in California who built his own
charger.

I started work on a similar project and made some keepers, but never
got any farther. I wanted to make a charger, too, but I just have too
many projects.

-
-----------------------------------------------
Jim Adney jadney@vwtype3.org
Madison, WI 53711 USA
-----------------------------------------------

 

[DWebster]

Been out of it for awhile, between hurricanes and rebuilding
computer...
Great news.. Where can I get a stk711-550???
My supplier doen't stock them

Thanks
Doug

----------------------------------------------
Posted with NewsLeecher v1.0 beta 26
* Binary Usenet Leeching Made Easy
* http://www.newsleecher.com/?usenet
----------------------------------------------

 

[PaPaPeng]

On Sat, 6 Nov 2004 21:00:04 -0500, "Kim" <ksleep@sympatico.ca> wrote:

Are their any suppliers of Membrane switch pads that supply groups of
switches in ready to use formats of 2, 3, 4..etc switches, as well as a
mounting frame for front panel mounts.

Try Goodwill rummage bins or the Dollar Stores for $1 toys with
membrane switches. Can't get any cheaper and they usually work.

 

[James Sweet]

"NSM" <nowrite@to.me> wrote in message
news:9Czjd.117564$df2.100786@edtnps89...

"David Askari" <davidlaska@aol.com> wrote in message
news:e42406d1.0411071547.32fc2437@posting.google.com...

| > Bad idea...it is obvious from the description that one or more
| > capacitors in the vertical circuit have gone bad.
|
| > Tom
|
| I did before you said bad idea. When I oppened the TV and looked at
| the adustment stuff, I found one in reference to vertical height. But
| all it did was make the 2" inch black line smaller and stretch the
| heads even more. I got it now, I will need to replace some related
| parts.

Always try the easy things first. Too many people rebuild the engine on
their auto before finding out that they left the headlights on all night.

This is one of those cases where it's just not true though, I mean is it
really likely that an internal adjustment adjusted itself to that extent? If
the picture is not right, and none of the customer controls will fix it,
then something is broken and will need to be serviced. In this case it
sounds like a simple fix.

 

[Franc Zabkar]

On 7 Nov 2004 00:34:48 -0800, tuckmeng@hotmail.com (TuckMeng Lam) put
finger to keyboard and composed:

No, there are no other options. The card is very specific, only
receives PAL D/K. Can I hijack another part from a 2nd hand tv card to
convert it to PAL B/G?

Can you open the tuner can? Is the IF stage inside the same can?
Perhaps if you can identify the chip(s) you could find a datasheet
with an application circuit that will show you which parts need
changing.


- Franc Zabkar
--
Please remove one 's' from my address when replying by email.

 

[Sam Storm van Leeuwen]

billb@eskimo.com (William J. Beaty) wrote in
news:2251b4e6.0411051259.431b21ad@posting.google.com:

MSA-1023 2.5GHz 27dBm amplifiers were discontinued by HP/Agilent
a few years ago and don't seem to be available anywhere. Well,
I can get them from Hong Kong if I want to buy 200 of the things.
Does anyone here have two or three that they'd be willing to part
with? ...or know any likely parts sources? I've tried the usual
hobbyist places, but I'm not that familiar with microwave ham
suppliers. This is for repair of NMR research equipment at work.
(The big supermagnets in liquid helium are fun, but maintaining
European RF equipment is sometimes a pain.)



((((((((((((((((((((((( ( ( (o) ) ) )))))))))))))))))))))))
William J. Beaty Research Engineer
beaty@chem.washington.edu UW Chem Dept, Bagley Hall RM74
billb@eskimo.com Box 351700, Seattle, WA 98195-1700
ph206-543-6195 http//staff.washington.edu/wbeaty/

AFAK, Mini Circuits makes equivalents.

Sam (from Europe ;-))

 

On 5 Nov 2004 05:09:50 -0800, wylbur37nospam@yahoo.com (wylbur37) wrote:

I have an Epson 740 inkjet printer.

After not using it for a while, I discovered that the inkjet nozzles
were apparently clogged to the point where the "head cleaning routine"
was of limited usefulness.
The printouts show signs of missing lines and "bleeding fibers"
indicating the presence of accumulated residue around the nozzles.

I'd like to be able to free the print head carriage assembly
so that I can wipe the front of the nozzles and clean them,
but I can't find the right screws to remove.

The Epson website has various manuals to download but they don't seem
to have the one that I need. Their Product Information Guide on setup
and testing (sc740_pg.pdf) mentions (on page 15,
under Related Documentation) the "TM-SC467 Epson Stylus Color
440/640/740 Service Manual", but that publication is apparently
nowhere to be found on their website.

Can someone either
(a) explain how to remove the print head assembly so the nozzles can be
cleaned or
(b) mention a website where the necessary documentation is available
for download or
(c) if you have the document, send me a copy via email as an attachment.


Thanks for your help.

I have a site that shows you how to do it, not to hard but you must also clean
up the parking station as that get paper dust and hair on it and dried ink,
that must be done so that the print head it covered and has a good vacuum..

I did mine by using this article, and the 740 works great afterwards..

I use a stuff called Spray and Wipe, 2mm in a flat tray, left the print here
face down in it for say one hour, then did it again, also move the head a
little up and down in the liquid, the liquid does not cover the head just the
face of it.

Then did it again with clean water, then dried it off with clean tissue

Yes here is the URL..

http://www.inkjetart.com/tips/cleaning/Image01.html

Please do make shore that the print head is place back correctly as the angle
of the head is important, the service manual refers to a test problem to set
the head up, but its also set by locking a screw, this does not get touched
when removing the hard.



----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Life is not measured by the number of breaths we take, but by the moments that take our breath away. (George Carlin)

 

[Watson A.Name - \"Watt Su]

"NSM" <nowrite@to.me> wrote in message
news:OO8jd.88090$df2.75976@edtnps89...

"Roger Hamlett" <rogerspamignored@ttelmah.demon.co.uk> wrote in
message
news:EP0jd.66$dq4.41@newsfe6-win.ntli.net...

| Interesting. The exact opposite of me. We have over 300 printer in
the
| company I work for. The running costs for HP equivalent models,
worked out
| over double that of the Epsons, with a hige number of 'early
replacement'
| cartridges. We have had just two Epson's develop clogged nozzles,
and both
| cleared.

Allegedly the price for inkjet ink works out to be several times the
price
of the finest French Champagne.

N

*That* is why they say, "Never argue with someone who buys ink by the
gallon."


;-))

http://www.funny2.com/never.htm

http://www.enquirer.com/editions/2004/06/13/editorial_mayorluken.html

 

[Craig Hart]

Possibly you could. Try to find the datasheet on the current fitted tuner,
then source a PAL B spare with similar pinout or at leas tthe same set of
signal in/outs (pinouts seem fairly standardised across models as a broad
rule).

Most times, it's a straight swap plus maybe move a resistor or two on the
card PCB to "select" the correct mode for the main decoder IC, which may not
even be necessry for PAL D to PAL B.



"TuckMeng Lam" <tuckmeng@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:b5ccbc51.0411070034.380d272a@posting.google.com...

No, there are no other options. The card is very specific, only
receives PAL D/K. Can I hijack another part from a 2nd hand tv card to
convert it to PAL B/G?

 

[Watson A.Name - \"Watt Su]

"john jardine" <john@jjdesigns.fsnet.co.uk> wrote in message
news:cmmln7$7df$1@newsg1.svr.pol.co.uk...

"wylbur37" <wylbur37nospam@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:8028c236.0411050509.287d0f5f@posting.google.com...
I have an Epson 740 inkjet printer.

After not using it for a while, I discovered that the inkjet nozzles
were apparently clogged to the point where the "head cleaning
routine"
was of limited usefulness.
The printouts show signs of missing lines and "bleeding fibers"
indicating the presence of accumulated residue around the nozzles.

I'd like to be able to free the print head carriage assembly
so that I can wipe the front of the nozzles and clean them,
but I can't find the right screws to remove.

The Epson website has various manuals to download but they don't
seem
to have the one that I need. Their Product Information Guide on
setup
and testing (sc740_pg.pdf) mentions (on page 15,
under Related Documentation) the "TM-SC467 Epson Stylus Color
440/640/740 Service Manual", but that publication is apparently
nowhere to be found on their website.

Can someone either
(a) explain how to remove the print head assembly so the nozzles can
be
cleaned or
(b) mention a website where the necessary documentation is available
for download or
(c) if you have the document, send me a copy via email as an
attachment.


Thanks for your help.

My original 600dpi by 1200dpi '600' model ran for 2 years with a
cleaning
cycle needed only rarely. Cartridges refilled by syringe. Used litres
of
ink. Scrapped it as the flex PCB to the head 'fatigued'.
My next '740' model (same as yours) used to clog up if left for more
than 10
days. (finer nozzles but cartridges still syringe refillable) Forced
to
become an expert on nozzle cleaning, most of the nozzles could usually
be
cleared. Finally blocked up and stayed blocked so I scrapped it.
Last model was the 'C82'. 1000's by 1000's of dpi. Chipped, non
refillable
cartridges, huge cartridge costs. Blocked after 7 days of non use.
Managed a
month and numerous cleaning cycles before heads permenantly blocked.
Usual
unclog methods failed, ended up trying pressurised hot ammonia through
the
nozzles (caused the nozzle driver I.C to melt . Scrapped it.
Pi***d off with Epsons, bought a next to nothing cost HP 3650.
Quality not
brilliant, software is shite but have had it 10 months with not a
single
problem, it has yet to block up, has taken none of my time and best of
all,
the original cartridges can still be refilled, so costs are near zero.
Moral of the story is that Epsom just don't know how to make high dpi
printers that work in the real world.
regards
john

Amen. You're preaching to the choir!

 

[john jardine]

"Watson A.Name - "Watt Sun, the Dark Remover"" <NOSPAM@dslextreme.com> wrote
in message news:10ouur8q586ea93@corp.supernews.com...

"john jardine" <john@jjdesigns.fsnet.co.uk> wrote in message
news:cmmln7$7df$1@newsg1.svr.pol.co.uk...

"wylbur37" <wylbur37nospam@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:8028c236.0411050509.287d0f5f@posting.google.com...
I have an Epson 740 inkjet printer.
[clip]


Amen. You're preaching to the choir!


Watson. I think it was yourself, (a post a couple of years ago) that caused

the scales to drop from mine eyes and guided me onto the true path of
printer righteousnous. .
regards
john

 

[news-proxy.pgb.philips.co]

Try:

http://www.streamium.com/products/

"A Philips Hi-Fi that is connected to the Internet"

That is the vague description we have of a product.

Does anyone know what it is likely to be?

Graham.

 

[JURB6006]

Sorry about the confusion, You must have missed the original thread.

JURB

 

[Jim Adney]

On 7 Nov 2004 18:55:42 -0800 captainvideo462002@yahoo.com (Lenny)
wrote:

Hi Jim
I really would appreciate that referral! You can respond directly to
my email if you like. captainvideo4620021@centralpets.com. Lenny
(remove the "1" from my address when emailing.)

You can post on Rec.bikes.tech, or email Andy Muzi at
am@yellowyersey.com. Mention my name.

(I wasn't sure whether I was supposed to remove the "one" or the "el"
from your stated address.)

BTW, I grew up in eastern Indiana and still have fond memories of
Captain Video. Where did that show originate?

-
-----------------------------------------------
Jim Adney jadney@vwtype3.org
Madison, WI 53711 USA
-----------------------------------------------

 

[N Cook]

"N Cook" <diverse2@tcp.co.antyspahm.uk> wrote in message
news:3rudnQL28oGPkhjcRVn-2w@tcp.co.uk...

Model MDX C150 made for Japan use and FM band set to 76MHz to 90MHz, UK is
about 88 to 108 MHz

Monitoring the VT line to the tuner varies from 1.52V to 4.2V from end to
end of this band. 2 banks of 6 channels programmable in this 76 to 90 M
range plus 3 more that come up annunciated as 1ch with a VT of 5.66V, 2ch
of 6.83V and 3ch of 8.04 V which coincides with a local station on
107.8MHz,
B+(for FM ) on the tuner is 8.29V.

Other than shifting this VT voltage and a 'lying' LCD display anyone know
how to reprogram these extra 3 channels that don't respond to the Seek +
/ -
buttons or even better resetting the whole fm band.

Also what does BTM mean coming up on one button selection?

electronic hints and repair briefs
http://homepages.tcp.co.uk/~diverse

I changed the 7.2M crystal associated with the LC7216 PLL to a double PAL
frequency crystal of 8.867238M
and this brought the range up to almost ideal, a slightly lower frequency
would be better.
LCD reading of 80.0 gives a tuned in station on 96.1M and 89.5 on LCD gives
a station
at 107.8MHz.
7.2M is used on LC7218 FM circuits so probably fairly generally applicable.

Will eventually appear on repair file on
http://homepages.tcp.co.uk/~diverse
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list etc

 

[DChrist]

The compartment is on the right side looking at the front of the receiver.

Dave



Tim Schwartz <toschwartz@worldnet.att.net> wrote in message news:<418CBF8F.F7B25D5C@worldnet.att.net>...

Dave,

Is this compartment on the front, side, rear or internal? My best
guess is that it is going to be a voltage change of some sort. I
haven't seen an SX-828 in a long time, but there were both US (120V
only) and multi-voltage versions of many products at that time. US
military PX's often sold the multi-voltage versions. Are there any
marking on the compartment or plug?

Regards,
Tim Schwartz
Bristol Electronics


DChrist wrote:

There is a black plastic covered compartment on the right side of my
Pioneer SX-828. When I pop off the cover the compartment looks like it
has a black plug with a pull handler attached to it. Does anybody know
what this is and what it is used for? Thanks.

Dave Christman

 

[Jerry G.]

I would try another TV on the same cable feed. It is possible that the tuner
module in the set has a defect.

--

Jerry G.
==========================
You can tune a radio, a banjo, a guitar, and a violin.
But, you can't "tune-a-fish!" (I just had to say this one...)


"Silver Surfer" <h.mcguffinspamouflage@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:xbckd.318631$wV.140429@attbi_s54...
My Crosley 19" TV is about twelve years of age. I cannot get it to tune
channels 95 through 97. It does tune in about everything else including 98
and 99. Is there actually a problem or was the set designed this way?

 

[dkuhajda]

12 years old. There is a very good chance it simply does not have those
channels available.